w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
See you at the picnic!
SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #701 | JUNE 3, 2016
what’s on what’s new what matters
Taken using high-tech drones, Chia Joel’s beautiful images show us Singapore from a different perspective. See PHOTOGRAPHY , page 8, for an interview
DRINK
DINING
TRAVEL
INTERVIEW
What to Drink at Beerfest
Best Filipino Food
What’s New in San Fran
Jigger & Pony’s Boss Lady
w w w. s g n o w. s g | M PA S W e b s i t e o f t h e Ye a r
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SG MAGAZINE | ISSUE #701 | JUN 3, 2016
Your FREE independent guide to the next two weeks
page 3
Say It With Clothes 14
cityscape
The Year Between Two Pink Dots 8 art
9 drink
The O.P.E.N.
Beerfest Asia 2016
Between the pink-clad LGBT menace and white-clad “profamily, pro-Government, pro-Singapore” crusaders, we’re starting to think all our political hopes and dreams will come true if we just dress the part. Here are some ideas. Wear Trays Campaign For those who believe: Singaporeans should bus their own tables at hawker centres
10 film
16 heritage
Return to Burma
Walking Trails
Wear Ears Campaign For those who believe: Strongly in lining up for the Hello Kitty Cafe
Wear Bikinis Campaign 18 food
19 startups
Best Filipino Restaurants
Singapore’s New Craft Gin
For those who believe: The government should intervene in this miserable heat
Wear a Sad Face Campaign For those who believe: Tinder should reconsider its pricing structure
Wear Torn T-Shirt Campaign For those who believe: Artists should not accept state funding
20 travel
22 interview
San Francisco
The Woman Behind Jigger & Pony
Wear Lululemon Campaign For those who believe: Citizens have a right to uncrowded yoga classes
Wear a Beer Can Campaign For those who believe: The no public drinking after 10:30pm rule is inhumane
Who's in charge? Advertising Director, Business Development Intan Agustina advertising@asia-city.com.sg
Finance Senior Finance Associate Nai Rohmat finance@asia-city.com.sg Junior Finance & Admin Executive Rusydi Ya’akup
Editorial Interns Sarah Begum, Mashyitah Binti Mustaffa
Senior Manager, Media & Marketing Shernan Plameras Manager, Media & Marketing Lee Wee Keong Junior Executive, Media & Marketing Sharon Leong
Design Associate Art Director Carmen Louise Ho Senior Designer Fishy Toh Designer Carmen Chua
Marketing Marketing Manager Silver Adrienna Ng marketing@asia-city.com.sg
Group Digital Director Greg Duncan gduncan@asia‑city.com.sg
Publisher & General Manager Ric Stockfis countrymanager@asia-city.com.sg Editorial Managing Editor Mrigaa Sethi editor@asia-city.com.sg Features Editor Chelsia Tan
Where to find us! Bangkok Asia City Media Group 9/F, Room A, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, 100 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500 Thailand Tel: 66-2-624 9696 Fax: 66-2-237 5656 bkmagazine@asia‑city.co.th
Group Directors Chief Executive Officer Gretchen Worth gworth@asia‑city.co.th
On the cover Photography by Chia Joel
Who are we?
Published every two weeks (with daily updates at sgnow.sg), SG (previously I-S) delivers honest, independent and irreverent coverage of the Singapore lifestyle scene. We’ve been recommending what to do and where to go here for 21 years—and we’ve never been more excited about the city than we are right now.
The Asia City Media Group
Singapore Asia City Publishing Pte. Ltd. Block 211 Henderson Rd. #07‑02 Henderson Industrial Park Singapore 159552 Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 Fax: 65‑6323‑2779 contact@asia-city.com.sg
Distributed by
Awesome events, cool new places, the very best of the next two weeks
High-end, hawker and everything inbetween: news on the drink and dining scene
Hot topics, local initiatives and ideas for making Singapore even better
Because Singapore is only so big: the best deals and destinations around Asia
Fashion, fitness, tech and more SG Magazine is published 24 times a year by Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd., 211 Henderson Road, #07‑02, Singapore 159552. Tel: 65‑6323‑2512 • Fax: 65‑6323‑2779. Copyright ©2016 Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. The titles “SG Magazine”, “I-S Magazine” and their associated logos or devices, and the content of SG Magazine and I-S Magazine are the property of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited. SG Magazine may not be distributed without the express written consent of Asia City Publishing Pte Ltd. Contact the Publisher for ad rates and specifications. All advertising in SG Magazine must comply with the Publisher’s terms of business, copies of which are available upon request. Printed by KHL Printing Co. Pte. Ltd., 57 Loyang Drive, Singapore 508968. ISSN 0218‑8872 MCI (P) 166/12/2015
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
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OB INDEX Charting the ups and downs of Singapore's openness, tolerance and freedom of expression
The Black Tie SG
HOT OR NOT
Hot: HDB shops
MAY
Not: Orchard Road shopping malls
While Orchard Road’s malls are facing a challenging retail slump, the heartlands are undergoing a long-awaited rejuvenation as a fresh crop of young entrepreneurs have set up shop among mom-and-pop stores. One such example is The Black Tie barber shop at Jurong West St 41, a hip space offering modern Don Draper-inspired haircuts for men. To help store owners sustain their businesses, HDB introduced a $35,000 upgrading budget for each HDB shop, an increase from $20,000.
Hooky g n i y a Pl Arrogan t But Of Course
Hot: Singlish
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The case of Kho Jabing, who was convicted of murder and executed on May 20, raised an uproar among death penalty activists who questioned the Court’s handling of his case, which saw two appeals by his lawyers two days before Kho’s execution on the morning of May 20, on top of past appeals against the death sentence in 2010 and 2013. The Sarawakian, who was convicted of causing the death of a Chinese construction worker during a robbery attempt in 2010 while under the influence of alcohol, was then sent to the gallows the very same day his last appeal was dismissed. In a Channel News Asia report (May 20), Judge of Appeal Chao Hick Tin called lawyers’ latest attempts an “abuse of the process of the court”, adding that ‘the legal system "will fall into disrepute if we allow the system to be scuttled" this way’. However, an article by activist Kirsten Han (May 18) on independent website Opendemocracy.net detailed a “horrifying roller-coaster ride” where Kho’s conviction was replaced with a life imprisonment sentence (and 24 strokes of the cane) in 2013, and then replaced once again with the death sentence in 2015 after an appeal by the prosecution.
NUMEROLOGY
Not: Speak Good English Campaign
Vincent Chong
Singlish has made it to the world stage again, and in the Oxford English Dictionary, no less. Long held as a bastion of the English language for local students, the dictionary now features more popular phrases like “lepak”, “shiok” and “sabo”. Ironically, consultant editor Danica Salazar was quoted saying in an interview with Yahoo Singapore that “Singlish does not destroy the English language but enriches it.” Take that, Speak Good English Campaign!
$60 million
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Cost of a lab set up by SMRT and Nanyang Technological University to develop solutions for a more reliable rail system.
Number of hours a week that 10 percent of 700 respondents said they spend with their families when surveyed in the first quarter of the year.
19% Singapore’s recycling rate, which fell from 22 percent in 2010, according to the National Environment Agency.
55% Singaporeans who feel that they do not have enough family time due to long working hours, in a survey result by Families For Life.
Hot: Outdoor markets
Not: Being outdoors
If you can brave the sweltering heat and unpredictable downpours, there’s no short of exciting outdoor food and shopping events happening in town. Some highlights include the Savour Gourmet market series, the recurring Open Farm Community farmer’s market and this weekend’s Marina Regatta (Jun 4-5), which has a food village selling international street grub. Too bad about the heat.
Source: Asiaone.com, The Straits Times
WE
SG
This week you will mainly love your city for its...
New passenger terminal building at Seletar Airport BE GOOD
Participate in a Singapore Red Cross blood donation drive. In conjunction with the 70th anniversary of the National Blood Programme, the Singapore Red Cross is holding an open house at four blood banks across Singapore on three weekends in June. If you’ve always wanted to donate your blood but are unsure of what it entails, these roadshows will take you through the process that culminates in a tour of the blood bank. From Jun 11-26. More information at www.redcross.sg/ BCCOpenHouse2016.
The Civil Aviation Authority of Singapore announced on May 19 that there will be a new Passenger Terminal Building built at Seletar Airport by the third quarter of 2018. This development will help accommodate the growth in air traffic, “free up capacity for jet aircraft operations at Changi” and also feature upgraded facilities and amenities.
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FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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now
The essential guide to what's on in Singapore Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
THEATER
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Let your inner improv nerd shine at this festival
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PICNIC
Eat, drink and window shop across two markets
The annual 9MCM marketplace by furniture store Dream is getting a major upgrade this year. The Market Hop is happening across two venues: APS and Dream over on River Valley, with twice as many food, drink and design-y vendors, including new names like Vatos Urban Tacos and Red Eye Smokehouse. Jun 4-5, 11am-7pm, APS Lifestyle Gallery, 9 Muthuraman Chetty Rd., and DREAM Showroom, 456 River Valley Rd., www.themarkethop.com. Free.
Packing seven side-splitting shows, six workshops and a total 30 hours of improv into one weekend is the first-ever Singapore Improv Festival. Nothing is scripted, everything is improvised. Expect hilarity. Jun 3-5, 11am-10pm, Centre 42, 42 Waterloo St., www. festival.improv.sg. $25-199.
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MARKET
Support LGBT visibility in Singapore It’s time for another edition of Pink Dot, Singapore’s annual LGBT picnic where you get to don a pink shirt and take your picnic basket and your flask over to Hong Lim Park and pretend you’re not checking everyone out. The culminating light dot formation this year will be replaced by an opportunity (for locals) to hold up placards bearing messages of support. Jun 4, 3pm, Hong Lim Park, 43 North Canal Rd., www.pinkdot. sg. Free.
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PARTY
CONCERT
Attend a two-day party on a Mississippi tugboat The second edition of the Bandwagon Riverboat party is a two-night affair and will feature live music and carnival activities on the three decks of Stewords Riverboat at Marina South Pier. The full artist line-up hasn’t been announced yet, but the first party was headlined by the likes of Dru Chen, Cheating Sons and [.gif]. Jun 10-11, 7pm-2am, Stewords Riverboat, 31 Marina Coastal Dr Berth 1, Marina South Pier, www.facebook.com/bandwagonapp. $45 from Peatix.
PARTY
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Brunch in your best tropical-chic outfit
CÉ LA VI combines a pool party and an indulgent buffet for their Sky High Brunch. Tuck into a gourmet buffet spread with a free flow of Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut champagne and cocktails. DJs Brendon P and Joshua P will helm entertainment proceedings. Jun 4, 124pm, CÉ LA VI, Marina Bay Sands, 1 Bayfront Ave., www.sg.celavi.com. $168-188.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
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PARTY
Gorge on BBQ at this Zouk and W Singapore mash-up
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Jive to this jazz band from Brooklyn
Young contemporary jazz ensemble Snarky Puppy—who’ve had temporary members such as Erykah Badu and Snoop Dogg—are coming to Singapore with their foot-tapping, occasionally Latin and sometimes Balkan sound. Jun 7, Esplanade Hall, 1 Esplanade Dr., www.esplanade.com. $68-138 from APACTix.
If it seems like there are an awful lot of pool parties this month, you are right. W Singapore – Sentosa Cove is collaborating with Zouk to put together an afternoon till night pool party, Wet, Hot, Summer: An Endless Edition, with music provided by DJs Jeremy Boon, Zushan and Lincey. Naturally, there will be cocktails and BBQ snacks, and a $35 cover gets you your first drink free, along with pool access. Jun 5, 2-8pm, WET Deck, 21 Ocean Way, www. wsingaporesentosacove.com/endlesssummer. $35.
DRINK
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Have a Negroni (or two) for charity
The 2016 edition of Negroni Week will involve at least 30 bars and restaurants in Singapore with a portion of proceeds going to charity. You can look forward to new twists on the classic cocktail at places like Bitters & Love, Manhattan, Jigger & Pony and more charities that will benefit from Negroni Week include the ST School Pocket Money Fund, Community Chest, Food Bank Singapore and Nepal relief funds. Jun 6-12, various venues, www. negroniweek.com.
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now PHOTOGRAPHY Drone photography by Chia Joel
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FESTIVAL
Brood over some serious performing arts The annual pre-cursor to the Singapore International of the Arts (SIFA) kicks off later this month. The O.P.E.N. this year includes highlights like I Know Why the Rebel Sings, a collection by Iranian photojournalist Newsha Tavakolian (Jun 22-Jul 9), a performance by Uyghur singer Perhat Khaliq of Voice of China fame (Jun 23) and Club Malam, which sees Old Kallang Airport transformed into a nostalgic rave with producers from Singapore, Germany and Indonesia. Jun 22-Jul 9, various venues, www.sifa.sg/theopen. $1045 from Sistic.
PARTY
Chia Joel
Better known as Idroneman, Chia Joel spends his free time capturing incredible aerial photos of places in Singapore and beyond. Here, he discusses his drones, his shoot planning process and his love of seeing Singapore from a different angle. Tell us about the equipment you use and the process of capturing these images. I use and trust DJI camera drones and quadcopters. I own three DJI Phantom 3s (Advanced). These machines have been providing me with a high level of consistent quality and reliability throughout my aerial adventures. The process of my aerial adventures, or should I say, aerial photography sessions, consists of a number of important and well thought-out processes. Most of the time, the day before a flight, I have to plan out where and what I would like to capture and shoot, with some rough framing of the shots that I would like to capture in mind. And on the day of the shoot? Before heading out on the actual day, I check the weather conditions. If it’s all good, I head down to the location with my co-pilot – none other than my very understanding, patient and enthusiastic girlfriend – to recce the area to determine a good launching and landing spot. Most of the time, I choose an elevated area to allow for more battery to be reserved for shooting rather than trying to ascend into the sky. Once a good location is determined, setting up the drone takes about 10 minutes. This important process includes attaching the propellers and the prop guards, warming up the aircraft and ensuring that the signal strength is good with minimal radio interference. This is crucial as a safe and good flight is highly dependent not only on the natural weather conditions, but also the strong signal strength between the remote controller and the drone. What are the challenges during the flight? Throughout this entire process, lots of focus has to be placed on framing the photo or video and keeping a close look out on both my iPad, which displays important information like the wind speed, velocity and signal strength, as well as the drone up in the sky. After my photos are captured to my liking, flying the drone back is usually a breeze as long as the battery consumption was well managed! How do you identify places to photograph? I feel that many places I end up shooting are places that I just randomly explored on a day out that made me think, “Hmm, maybe this
location could use some new perspectives.” I love exploring Singapore and sometimes when I’m out, I notice places or subjects that would look really awesome from a drone’s point of view. And the next thing you know, I’m back there a few days later with my trusty DJI drone! Most of the time, after a day of flying, I end up so fascinated by how somewhere so ordinary, or perhaps so common or random, can turn out to be a piece of art!
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
Celebrate one of Singapore’s best small venues Blu Jaz is celebrating its 12th anniversary with—you guessed it—the first in their new Blu Jaz Street Party series. The street will be closed to traffic, the DJ decks will come out, and there wil be free shots for the first 200 people to participate in an on-site poll. Expect Uber promo codes, tequila, reggae and lots more fun stuff. Jun 4, 7pm-1am, Blu Jaz Cafe, 11 Bali Ln., www.blujazcafe.net. Free.
What regulations do you have to follow regarding the use of drones in Singapore? I do have to follow the regulations and the drone law that was implemented and ensure that I do not fly within 5km of an airport or air base, or 61m above mean sea level. If I have to do a flying session that requires me to ascend higher than 61m, then a flying permit would be required. It takes approximately two weeks for processing and approval before a flight. So far, all my flights have been safe and cleared by authorities as I do practice safe flying habits. I believe this is truly important as the community of drone pilots grow here in Singapore. The closest call I had with the authorities was in China, where I was flying over a theme park to get some really cool new perspectives. A security guard rode his bike over to ask what we were doing. Thankfully, after he found out, he was really cool about it and even stopped to watch me fly my drone back for landing.
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CONCERT
Take bae to the sappiest show ever If you get lightheaded and joyful every time “Cannonball” comes on, then you won’t want to miss a night of wistful musings with Irish troubadour Damien Rice, who is performing in Singapore for the third time. Jun 4, 8pm, The Star Theatre, 1 Vista Exchange Green. $68-148.
How do these new perspectives on Singapore make you feel? Well, these new perspectives on Singapore make me feel that there is so much more to explore and shoot! It really inspires me and drives me to capture more of what Singapore has to offer with a view from the top. With the ability and agility of drones in this day and age, it opens up endless possibilities to shoot amazing aerial views of landscapes and architecture that have never been seen before! I once fell in love with skydiving because of the amazing perspective you could gain while freefalling. Having a drone and sending it up to be the eye in the sky brings back the same excitement and exhilaration every time I fly.
Follow Chia Joel on Instagram @idroneman. KURT GANAPATHY
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Cover Up SG Magazine covers celebrate local artists, photographers and illustrators and their remarkable depictions of Singapore. They look so good, we’ve even started hanging them on our walls.
To suggest someone we should feature or to partner with us on this initiative, email editor@asia-city.com.sg
now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
ART
DRINK
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See what’s brewing in the Singapore theater scene
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Peek into the minds of Singapore’s young playwrights in the Twenty Something Theatre Festival as they showcase eight brand new plays over two weekends. Six plays written by the shortlists of the Fresh! Playwrights have been handpicked by veteran theater makers such as Haresh Sharma and Natalie Hennedige. Established young artists like Joel Tan and Irfan Kasban will also present their new full productions. Jun 9-12 & 16-19, 3-9pm, Goodman Arts Centre, 90 Goodman Rd., www.facebook.com/ twentysomethingtheatrefestivalSG. $22-55 from Peatix.
Contemplate the strange beauty of HDBs
LUDO Gallery and the Visual Arts Centre will host a solo exhibition featuring the work of Korean-born New Zealand artist Shin-young Park. Dwell:ing offers new perspectives on Singapore’s public housing and shared public spaces. The show involves an installation of 100 photographs depicting the contrasting colors of HDB flats around the country, alongside a series of layered print works on metal and paper which depict both natural and man-made objects. Jun 6-8, 6:30pm, Visual Arts Centre, Dhoby Ghaut Green, www.b6t9.com. Free.
MUSIC
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Attend the cutest birthday party ever at the NDC
HK-based multi-label design store Kapok is turning 10 and is celebrating with a theme party at their National Design Centre branch. There will be coffee, food, raffles, live music and a stripes-only dress code. Jun 11, 1-7pm, National Design Centre, 111 Middle Rd., www.facebook. com/KapokSG. Free.
Catch a rooftop concert Baby-faced American singersongwriter Greyson Chance (of Lady Gaga cover fame) is performing alongside local darling Inch Chua at this evening, outdoor concert. A $90 spend at myVillage gets you a free ticket. Jun 18, myVillage, 1 Maju Ave., myvillage.sg.
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NETWORKING
SHOPPING
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Hand out some business cards at this tech conference
MARKET
Fancy yourself an entrepreneur? The Echelon Asia Summit is taking place later this month, with a bevy of start-up types and CEOs of your favorite ventures speaking over two days. There will also be special talks on the future of AI, robotics, work culture among millenials and lots more. Jun 15 & 16, 8.30am-5pm, Singapore Expo Hall 3A, 1 Expo Drive, www.e27.co/echelon/asia. $349.
Do music and madness at MAAD
The Red Dot Museum’s monthly market, MAAD Sounds!, is back, with live music by Deon, Superset and Nightingale and DJ Minimal Simplicity on the decks in between. Oh, and there’s shopping too, but with a line-up like this, and a 5pm start time, it’s more of a party. Jun 10, 5pm-12am, Red Dot Design Museum, 28 Maxwell Rd., www.maad.sg.
FESTIVAL GUIDE What to drink at this year’s Beerfest Asia Beerfest Asia returns for its eighth edition, bringing you more than 500 beers and ciders from around the world. With so many brews and so little time, we decided to dive into their line-up in search of interesting new arrivals. Here are the eight you shouldn't miss.
Brothers
Gosnells London Mead
ARCHIPELAGO BREWERY SINGAPORE BLONDE Archipelago’s beers need no introduction, and their recently-introduced small batch brews are getting us excited. If you missed the opportunity to try the Singapore Blonde at Craft Singapore, you’ll have another chance at Beerfest Asia.
BROTHERS COCONUT AND LIME CIDER Just when you thought that you had cider all figured out, our favorite purveyors of flavored cider have introduced a refreshing coconut and lime variant. It’s perfect for an afternoon drinking session in Singapore.
TIGER BLACK We wouldn’t normally put a mainstream brew on a list like this, but we have to admit that we’re pretty intrigued by new developments with Singapore’s national beer. Beerfest Asia will see the Singapore debuts of Tiger White – a wheat beer you might have encountered in Malaysia – and the still mysterious Tiger Black which we hear is brewed with black rice.
GOSNELLS LONDON MEAD Even if you consider yourself to be an expert on all things brewed, there’s a good chance you know nothing about mead. Broaden your horizons with Gosnells London Mead, a light, bubbly, semisweet incarnation of the ancient beverage made from honey.
COCKIES OCEAN ROAD PALE ALE If you’ve visited Melbourne then there’s a good chance that you have fond memories of the Great Ocean Road. Cockies hails from Geelong, the road’s gateway, and their Ocean Road Pale Ale is a hoppy and herbaceous drop that will have you planning your next trip.
STONE HEAD THE DARK SIDE IMPERIAL STOUT Thailand’s Stone Head is one of the most exciting breweries on the Asian craft beer scene today. It would be easy to recommend every beer on their list, from the pale ale brewed with cashew fruits to the Kolsch brewed with organic Thai lemongrass, but The Dark Side Imperial Stout is what we’re waiting for. The 12.3% alcohol by volume beast offers flavors of roasted coffee and coconut.
SPENCER AMERICAN TRAPPIST ALE Trappist beer is literally a sacred product – for a beer to carry Authentic Trappist Product certification, it has to be brewed by Trappist monks in their monastery. Previously, only six breweries in Belgium and one in the Netherlands were given the certification, but since 2012, a select few from other countries have joined the fold. Spencer, brewed by the monks at St. Joseph’s Abbey in Spencer, Massachusetts, was awarded the certification in 2013. BREWDOG SINK THE BISMARCK! This quadruple IPA from Scottish brewery BrewDog is the stuff of legend. Weighing in at a mind-boggling 41% abv, it was once the strongest beer in the world (yes, there are beers out there with even more alcohol in them). Beerfest Asia regulars will remember its “weaker” 32% abv sibling Tactical Nuclear Penguin from previous editions, but 2016 will be your first opportunity to try this remarkable beer there.
Beerfest Asia 2016 runs Jun 16-19 and tickets range from $34-180. More info at beerfestasia.com. KURT GANAPATHY FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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now Send your events news to art@asia-city.com.sg, nightlife@asia-city.com.sg, stage@asia-city.com.sg
SCENE & HEARD
FIGHT Aaron Wong
Danny Santos
EXPLORE
RuPaul's Drag Race
Oh Yay, Shantay! The stars of RuPaul’s Drag Race are coming to Singapore for the very first time on Jul 10 as part of RuPaul’s Drag Race Battle of the Seasons: 2016 Extravaganza Tour. The show, hosted by series judge Michelle Visage, will star winners and fan favorites from every season of the show including Alaska 5000, Detox, Ginger Minj, Ivy Winters, Manila Luzon, Pandora Boxx and Violet Chachki. Tickets start at $108, for the lowest-tier seats, and it's a nothing-to-sneeze-at $448 for the Superstar VIP Package, which includes front row seats, invites to the pre-show and post-show meet and greets, an on-stage photo op, an autographed poster and essential merchandise.
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Watch The Sniper and the Soul Crusher duke it out
Soak in the atmosphere at the SFC 3 The Next Chapter and witness Singapore’s first female professional boxer, Nurshahidah ‘The Sniper’ Rosli, and fighter Tiffany ‘Soul Crusher’ Teo battle international MMA fighters in an epic showdown. 13 Fights, 1 night. Jun 10, 6-11pm, Singapore Futsing Association, 2 Allenby Rd., www. singaporefightingchampionships.com. $48.
Have Some More Macklemore, that is. The indie hip-hop artist is coming to town with his buddy Ryan Lewis for the first time, so sensitive bros take special note. The duo will perform at The Star Theatre on Sep 20, and tickets are $68-168 through Sistic.
FILM
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Help clean up Pulau Ubin
Later this month, the Nature Society is leading the Forest Clean Up at Pulau Ubin. Wander the woods learning all about the ecosystem and cleaning it up as you go along. It starts bright and early, and there is only room for 25 participants. Jun 11, 9am-12pm, Pulau Ubin, www.nss.org.sg.
LITERARY
Yes You Cannes Boo Junfeng’s psychological drama Apprentice didn’t win any awards at Cannes this year, but it did get a very respectable standing ovation. And starting Jun 30, you can watch it at Golden Village cinema, where the story of a young correctional officer and a hardened executioner will have its general release. No word yet on when we can see the other Cannes-premiering Singapore film, K. Rajagopal’s A Yellow Bird. More info at www.gv.com.sg.
FESTIVAL Highlights of the first-ever GUIDE Singapore Coffee Fest
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Catch this Burmese film at the National Gallery
The Painting with Light film series focusing on Southeast Asia has a particularly poignant title in store. Return to Burma by filmmaker Midi Z follows a Burmese construction worker in Taiwan as he returns home after the encouraging elections, only to discover his friends and family are emigrating to other countries. Jun 5, 3pm, Auditorium, National Gallery Singapore, 1 St. Andrew’s Rd., www.nationalgallery.sg. $10.
SHOPPING
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Meet Singapore’s top authors
Get up close and personal with the Singapore Literature Prize shortlisted authors from the English category such as Sonny Liew, Loke Hoe Yeong, Ning Cai, Tse Hao Guang, and Desmond Kon Zhicheng-Mingde. Pick up some useful tips on writing and publishing, and grab signed copies of their books on your way out. Jun 9, 7.15pm, Multipurpose Room, The National Library, 100 Victoria Street, www.facebook.com/ SingaporeLiteraturePrize. Free.
Common Man Coffee Roasters
Happening at the F1 Pit Building from Jun 9-12, this consumer and trade event will host over 100 exhibitors and activities like talks, panel discussions and workshops, with the focus on Singapore's coffee heritage. The event kicks off with an exclusive launch for trade and media partners on Jun 9, and it officially opens to the public from Jun 10. Participating cafes include Common Man Coffee Roasters, Chye Seng Huat Hardware, Dapper Coffee and Knockhouse Supply Co., and those who prefer more traditional brews can opt for Killiney Kopitiam and its signature Hainanese coffee. Coffee nerds should check out Lab Sessions, a series of talks and practical workshops by Common Man Coffee Roasters, The Straits Times and Bettr Barista on topics such as managing a cafe business, the coffee industry, latte art, and chocolate and coffee pairing. On the entertainment front, there will be live music from local acts and a beauty pop-up by Shiseido offering Japanese confectionaries from Ginza. Ticket prices range from $18 for one-day General Entry passes to $43 for a one-day VIP package, which includes access to a VIP lounge, the music stage and workshops, a complimentary drink, canapes and express entry at the gate. Limited Group Tickets are available at $44 for four same-day General Entry passes. More information at www.sgcoffeefestival.com.sg.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
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PARTY
Soak up some rays and suds on Sentosa
Tanjong Beach Club kicks off their new Summer Strip: An Eternal Pool Party Series with this quirky Vegas-themed event. Expect poolside roulette, an “instant wedding booth”, champagne showers and Vegas showgirls. Music will be provided by the likes of Stephen Day, Adrian Giordano and Pete Herbert. Jun 11, Tanjong Beach Club, 120 Tanjong Beach Walk, www.tanjongbeachclub.com. $28 from Peatix.
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Visit Keepers at their new permanent home
If you got excited about Keepers, the design collective which had its pop-up two years ago on Orchard Road, then we are happy to report that it has now found its new and permanent home. The new space at the National Design Centre (NDC) is now open with displays by Keepers founder Carolyn Kan and her label, Carrie K., along with artisanal candles by A Dose of Something Good, dressy scarves by Binary Style; heritage-themed wallpapers by Onlewo and much more. National Design Centre, 111 Middle Rd., www.keepers. com.sg.
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EVENTS
The Road to Pink Dot We look at the ups and downs in LGBT issues since the last picnic. By SG Staff Actually
Filthy & Gorgeous
GRIND
T
he annual LGBT picnic Pink Dot takes place Jun 4 at Hong Lim Park, with celebrity ambassadors, a three-movie video campaign produced by Boo Junfeng and even PS Cafe among the long list of otherwise international corporate sponsors. But how is LGBT tolerance in Singapore actually faring outside the wholesome annual picnic celebration? We scour the news between this Pink Dot and the last to see.
November 27, 2015 11,000 people signed a petition asking gay pop star Adam Lambert to be uninvited from the New Year’s Eve festivities in Singapore, “for his active promotion of a highly sexualized lifestyle and LGBT rights, both of which are contrary to mainstream Singaporean values.”
January 27, 2016 At the UN’s Universal Periodic Review, 15 countries recommended that Singapore repeal section 377A. (The review was part of a larger human rights policy review all member states go through.) Ambassador Chan Heng Chee stressed that Singapore does not enforce the law. Local LGBT advocacy organization SAYONI rebutted by citing limitations on LGBT portrayals in the media and instances of workplace discrimination.
April 2, 2016 Local theater company Toy Factory ended its sold-out run of gaythemed play GRIND at Drama Centre Blackbox. The story deals with four gay male friends, each dealing with a conflict in their lives. The play received a relatively lenient R18 rating from the MDA.
April 27, 2016 An unnamed Singaporean woman who faces reservist duty back in Singapore was granted asylum in the UK. According to NS regulations, pre-operative transgender women are still eligible for national service, whereas the UK recognizes transgender people regardless of their anatomy.
14
Pink Dot
Margaret Cho
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
March 5, 2016 A hero of the American LGBT community, comedian Margaret Cho came to the Kallang Theatre. Tickets sold out so fast, the organizers scrambled to add a second show. As expected, she shocked and awed with her colorful language, her views on 377A and some infamous words for the vocally anti-gay leaders in Singapore.
April 29, 2016 In support of Pink Dot and the LGBT community in Singapore, local multilabel boutique Actually teamed up with fellow local business Mash Up to create a pink capsule collection, with proceeds from sales going towards the event.
February 14, 2016 A human interest piece by TODAY, featuring power couples in Singapore theater, interviewed Wild Rice creative director Ivan Heng and his husband Tony Trickett, but their portion was omitted from the final version of the story, prompting a post by Heng on Facebook and an ensuing debate.
February 15, 2016 In Fault Lines, a queer-themed exhibition at LaSalle’s Institute of Contemporary Arts Singapore, two “sex objects” were removed from Singaporean artist Loo Zihan’s 81-piece installation, Queer Objects: An Archive for the Future. By way of explanation, ICA director Bala Starr told The Straits Times, “The show is intended to be inclusive, particularly bearing in mind that we have young as well as mature students at Lasalle, many from different cultural and religious backgrounds. Ours is an open, highly visible gallery with a full glass facade.”
February 25, 2016 Two weeks later, Mediacorp’s Channel 5 edited out a portion of The Ellen Degeneres Show, where President Barack Obama praised her on her LGBT advocacy in the United States. VP of Programming Lee Hung Sheng said the edit was in compliance with Singapore’s Free-to-Air TV program guidelines, which require that “all programs broadcast between 6am and 10pm must be suitable for family audiences”. Themes such as “drug use, prostitution or homosexuality” are not deemed suitable.
May 6, 2016 Pink Dot outdid itself in this year’s campaign video. A series of three short films this time around, the campaign covered under-discussed topics such as HIV and transgender issues through heartwarming stories of friendship, support and love.
May 11, 2016 RuPaul’s Drag Race announced a big first show in Singapore taking place in July. The extravagant stage show, based on the American drag reality series, will take place at Kallang Theatre, where Margaret Cho also performed.
February 20, 2016 RIOT!, Singapore’s only drag revue took a break from the cavernous darkness of TAB and headed to a fancy champagne brunch at Marina Bay Sands. Long Chim hosted the first-ever Filthy & Gorgeous, a daytime drag revue. This was followed up with a second one in April.
May 25, 2016 TODAY reported that the anti-LGBT Wear White campaign will take place over Pink Dot weekend, led by pastor Lawrence Khong, although without the collaboration of Noor Deros, the Islamic religious teacher who founded the campaign two years ago and who focus on educational programs this year instead.
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FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
15
HERITAGE
Trail Runner
Walter Lim
The latest openings and hottest trends in Singapore Long Beach Seafood
island
12 fascinating heritage trails in Singapore to explore this weekend. By SG Staff
Bedok Rest House
Beaulieu House Gaurav Vaidya
I
f you haven’t checked out the National Heritage Board’s (NHB) recently-launched Roots.sg portal, you’re missing out. The resource for Singapore’s heritage lovers is packed with fascinating information including 85 heritage trails. Here are our favorites.
A Stroll in the Jewish Quarters Visit the historic heart of Singapore’s Jewish community at Maghain Aboth Synagogue and Prinsep Street where many weathered buildings tell stories of a bygone era.
side of the area. You’ll see 1920s terrace shophouses, significant landmarks for Singapore’s Buddhist and Muslim communities and the former Geylang Fire Station.
In the Steps of G. D. Coleman
Like Toa Payoh, Ang Mo Kio is another heartland neighborhood with plenty of stories to tell. See its unusual circular block of flats and its town gardens on Trail One, then explore Lower Peirce Reservoir on Trail Two.
Rediscover the story of George Drumgoole Coleman, an Irishman who arrived in Singapore in 1822 to serve as an architect, a surveyor and, eventually, the Superintendent of Public Works. Designing and constructing bridges, government buildings, private homes and places of worship, Coleman helped to shape the young settlement.
Bedok Heritage Trail
Jalan Besar Heritage Trail
The newest addition to the NHB’s collection of heritage trails transports you back in time to the era before the development of the East Coast area; a time when Singapore’s wealthiest inhabitants resided in waterfront bungalows alongside fishing villages. With 10 markers spread along a 15km route, you’ll discover Bedok’s long history, from its kampung beginnings to its key role in the East Coast Reclamation Scheme.
Now a popular neighborhood that attracts hipsters and backpackers, Jalan Besar’s historic structures include Allenby House and International Hotel, the Petain Road terrace houses and the Sri Manmatha Karuneshvarar Temple.
Ang Mo Kio Heritage Trails
Building a Nation: Samsui Women in Singapore This brief trail takes you back to the world of Samsui women, Singaporean pioneers whose contributions are finally being celebrated.
Geylang Serai Foot Trail
Queenstown Heritage Trail Of course, you can’t visit Singapore’s second satellite town without visiting its first. Highlights of the Queenstown Heritage Trail include the Church of the Good Shepherd, the former Thye Hong Biscuit and Confectionery Factory and some of Singapore’s first HDB flats.
Sepoy Lines Trail The Sepoy Lines Trail traces the history of Singapore’s Sikh community, bringing you past former barracks, the Bhai Maharaj Singh Ji Memorial and the Silat Road Sikh Temple.
Geylang has many claims to fame (and infamy), but this trail allows you to experience a very different
Maghain Aboth Synagogue
Toa Payoh Trail Toa Payoh isn’t a typical heartland neighborhood, it was Singapore’s second satellite town, providing the blueprint for all residential areas that would follow. The Toa Payoh Trail takes you around nine landmarks from this storied past including the 1973 SEAP Games Village, Lian Shan Shuang Lin Monastery and the iconic dragon playground.
World War II Trail With markers almost all across Singapore, the World War II Trail calls for a road trip. You’ll visit the site of the Kranji Beach Battle, the Sook Ching Inspection Centre and the massacre sites of Changi, Punggol and Sentosa as you remember Singapore’s darkest chapter.
Yishun Sembawang Heritage Trail With 33 landmarks spread out over 6.8km, the Yishun Sembawang Heritage Trail is one of Singapore’s most expansive historic walks. Start at Upper or Lower Seletar Reservoir, enjoy a soak at the Sembawang Hot Spring, dine at Beaulieu House and visit Singapore’s last kampung mosque, Masjid Petempatan Melayu.
TECH The latest batch of Singapore’s co-working spaces
JUSTCO
The Hive
16
SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
THE HIVE Co-working space The Hive, which has branches in Hong Kong and Bangkok, now has its first Singapore office at New Bridge Road. Occupying three shophouses, it regularly organizes networking events for members, creatives and entrepreneurs. Memberships start at $20 for a day pass that allows you 24-hour access to desks, lounge seats and the rooftop cafe. For bigger teams, $800 gets you an office pass. It’s also close to popular bars and restaurants such as like 28 HongKong Street, Vasco and FOC. 59 New Bridge Rd., www.thehive.sg IMPACT HUB The Hub Singapore’s recent co-working space at 128 Prinsep Street has features such as 160 co-working and permanent desks, eight team rooms, six hi-spec meeting rooms, three sound-proof Skype booths and event spaces to accommodate up to 200 people. There’s even an inhouse cafe, a communal pantry, hot showers and a nap room. The likes of Mashable and Paypal have their offices here. 128 Prinsep St., singapore.impacthub.net
JUSTCO Occupying four floors of the Parakou building, JustCo’s office spaces are filled with work furnishings, books and some ‘80s retro decor (we spy a Space Invaders wall mural and some old school arcade machines). There’s also a pantry and a few meeting rooms, should you want to arrange meetings with clients. It’s $50 to rent a desk for a day, but if you’re in it for the long haul, the rent is $800 a month for a studio space. 120 Robinson Rd., www.facebook.com/JustCoSG TECHNOPRENEUR CIRCLE Helmed by Vertex Holdings, this co-working space for technopreneurs has one unique advantage: it’s free. It’s a simple, no-frills conference room with tables, chairs and Wi-Fi. To sign up, go to their website and fill out an application. Co-workers will receive an email that shoes how to operate the door system and how to be a member. Visit their site for more info and for their events calendar. 250 North Bridge Rd., www. technopreneurcircle.com
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Sign up at sgnow.sg/newsletters FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
17
eats
The inside scoop on Singapore’s drink and dining scene
Tapa King
RESTAURANTS
Filipino Fever Where to get amazing Pinoy food in Singapore. By Chelsia Tan Iskina Cebu
Jollibee
Iskina Cebu
C
Inasal
elebrate Filipino independence day on Jun 12 by indulging in the best Filipino cuisine around Singapore. Here’s where you can tear into a hearty plate of chicken inasal, or even order a juicy whole barbecued roast.
Calle Real
Jollibee
Located at Changi Business Park, Calle Real whips up a fusion rendition of Filipino cuisine inspired by Spanish, Chinese, and Western styles. The diner’s highlights range from kare-kare (oxtail in peanut sauce, $18.80), rellenong bangus (milkfish stuffed like a sausage, $18.80) and crispy pata (pork knuckle, $28.80).
This fast-food chain needs no introduction. Pride and joy of the Filipino diaspora, Jollibee’s debut Singapore branch saw fans queueing for its famous fried chicken and spaghetti when it opened at Lucky Plaza in March 2013. Three years on, and Jollibee’s fried chicken frenzy has led to three more outlets at Novena Square, Changi City Point, and Lucky Plaza’s basement.
Best for: Check out the cheap buffet at $10 on Sundays, or try the lumpiang Shanghai (deep fried spring roll, $8) and rellenong bangus ($18.80).
Best for: Fried chicken—prices range from $3.50 for one piece a la carte ChickenJoy meal to $32 for a 12-piece bucket.
Iskina Cebu This proudly Cebuano stall, previously operating at a nondescript Paya Lebar coffee shop, is now firing up its charcoal grill at open-air food truck concept Timbre +. Come here for its popular barbecued roasts like spicy belly chon (slowroasted pork belly), inasal manok (grilled chicken) and liempo (grilled pork belly), all at an affordable price range of $6-10 for set dishes. There’s also the option of ordering a whole roast—just drop them a line four days in advance. Best for: Lechon Cebu (roasted pork).
#01-37 UEBizhub East (North Tower), 6 Changi Business Park Ave.1, www.callereal.com.sg.
#06-048A Lucky Plaza, 304 Orchard Rd., www.facebook.com/JollibeeSG.
#01-27 73A Ayer Rajah Crescent, www.iskinacebu.com.sg.
Gerry’s Grill
Inasal
With outlets at Makansutra Gluttons Bay and Cuppage Road, and also in countries such as Qatar and the US, Gerry’s Grill is a household name in the Philippines that’s popular for grilled seafood and of course, classic Filipino dishes.
This gritty eatery on Lucky Plaza’s fourth floor is where you go for chicken inasal ($8), their signature dish, which comes with a generous chunk of chicken thigh, rice and pickled vegetables. If you’re game, try the sisig ($11), a delightfully messy dish comprising of chopped pig’s head and liver served on a sizzling pan and cooked with calamansi and chili peppers.
It’s not just Jollibee that’s dishing out quick meals—Tapa King is another authentic Filipino chain serving baskets of battered chicken and signature rice dishes at Lucky Plaza. Diners can choose sides ranging from smoked bangus ($8.20), cornsilog (corned beef. $6.20) and their specialty, the Tapa King (marinated beef jerky, $7.80). Other options include beef brisket noodles ($6.80), spaghetti with chicken ($6.80), beef kare-kare ($12.50) and beef sinigang (tamarind broth with vegetables, $12.50).
Best for: Order the kare-kare ($16.85), an oxtail stew cooked in thick peanut sauce; or the sisig ($11.95), bits of pig offal served in a sizzling pan. Starhub Centre, 52 Cuppage Rd., www.facebook.com/ Gerrys-Grill-Restaurant.
Best for: Chicken inasal ($8). Unlike other Pinoy eateries at Lucky Plaza, they cook their food a la minute. If you want your Sinigang hot and fresh, this is where you get it. #04-049/050/051 Lucky Plaza, www.facebook.com/ InasalRestaurant.
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
Tapa King
Best for: Tapsilog, strips of cured beef served with garlic fried rice and egg (from $7.80 to $8.20); and the Tapa Queen ($7.80), a sweet and spicy version of the dish. #B1-038 Lucky Plaza, 304 Orchard Rd., www.facebook. com/TapaKingSingapore.
eats DRINK
NEW AND NOTED
Creating a craft gin in Singapore
Japan Food Town
Angela May Food Chapters
World Oyster Festival
NEW RESTAURANTS
Farm-to-Table
A new mall restaurant on Orchard that provides a standalone vibe, Angela May Food Chapters is a Singapore foray by TV chef Angela May, in partnership with Robinsons and DHM, the people who brought us L’Entrecote. The space grows some of its own produce of herbs and sources local fish, while the ladies-who-lunch-friendly menu features dainty Southeast Asian-inspired dishes with contemporary touches, such as the chilled coconut chia and fresh berries pudding drizzled with gula melaka ($18); cold scallion noodle bowl with soy glazed shiitake and pickled cucumbers ($18); and shaved asparagus and arugula mint salad with a slow-cooked egg and wasabi lettuce ($24). #02-02 Robinsons The Heeren, 260 Orchard Rd., www.dhm.com.sg/angela-may.
Simply Oishii
Isetan Orchard may have ceased operations at Wisma Atria, but the fourth level of the former department store is coming back to life. Cool Japan Fund and the Japan Association of Overseas Promotion for Food & Restaurants have roped in a couple of investors for Japan Food Town, a 628-seater food hall specializing in authentic Japanese cuisine. They have curated 16 casual-dining eateries from Japan’s various prefectures and cities such as Dassai Bar (Iwakuni), which is known for its fine blend of sakes; Sato Yosuke (Tokyo), an udon specialist famous for their 150 year-old technique; and Nabe Seizan (Tokyo), an offshoot of two Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant Seizan. Diners can opt for healthier choice Kinme Mai, which has the nutritional value of brown rice. The space will also host cooking workshops for both adults and kids. Japan Food Town opens at #04-39/54 Wisma Atria on Jul 16, from 11am.
BARS
Wild Wild West
Your one-stop for drinking and dining, Urban Saloon is a bar and restaurant styled in the form of a western saloon at the Red Dot Building.The place is stocked with Bourbon such as the fancy Jefferson Reserves ($20) and Four Roses Single Barrel ($20); a Whiskey selection like Alberfeldly (Highland, $35) and Chivas
Urban Saloon
Regal Royal Salute ($30), not forgetting its various other selections of conventional bar drinks. It serves nibble food like Cast iron Wuz ‘P’ chicken ($16) and Smoked salmon gravlax ($20) and a variety of burgers, salads and pasta dishes. 28 Maxwell Rd., www.urbsaloon.com.
Sing a Song
When it comes to a night out at a karaoke joint in Singapore, there are generally two kinds of experiences that await: one with expensive and boring drinks and another where singing isn’t the main attraction (you know what we mean). Skinny’s Lounge is here to change that. Touted as an “American KTV”, Skinny’s Lounge is the creation of former Cufflink Club and Vasco bartender Nick Haas. The grungy Boat Quay bar is decked out with disco lights and graffitied windows, and features a private KTV room that can accommodate up to ten people. Targeting the late night crowd, they close at 3am on weekdays and 4am on weekends. While that’s all pretty cool, the affordable cocktails at Skinny’s are what you’ll be writing home about. Their “Fast and Cheap” cocktails, including the Americano and the tequila-based Paloma, are available for just $15 while their classic cocktails, like the Daiquiri No. 1 and caipiroska, will only set you back $18 (you can take up their “Make it Nice” option and get your classics made with premium spirits for an extra $3). You can also order a tower of Pimm’s Cup that serves 12 people ($200). Food highlights include hotdogs ($12) and jumbo pretzels ($10). 82 Boat Quay., www.facebook.com/drinkskinnys.
EVENTS
The World is Your Oyster
If you know a Belon from a Fine de Claire and a Tsarskaya from a Kumamoto, then this is the time of year when you’ll start to get excited. Greenwood Fish Market & Bistro’s Oyster Festival returns for its fourth edition from Jul 1-31. Now with the lofty title of World Oyster Festival, more than 20 varieties of the shellfish will be flown in for the month-long event from places like Australia, Canada, France and New Zealand. Prices are expected to start at $4 per oyster. No. 34 Greenwood Ave., www.facebook. com/greenwoodfishmarketandbistro.
Despite their corporate backgrounds, American expat couple Simin Kayhan and Rick Ames recently founded Singaporean craft spirit company, Paper Lantern Distilling (www. facebook.com/drinkpaperlantern) to produce spirits made entirely with Asian ingredients. They've just launched a Pozible campaign for their first product, the Sichuan Pepper Gin, a ricebased craft gin distilled at a facility in Chiang Mai. Here we speak to the couple about Paper Lantern Distilling's grand plans, the possibility of distilling in Singapore and how best to enjoy this unusual gin. The cocktail and spirit scene in Singapore is quite vibrant, and possibly even oversaturated. What do you think Paper Lantern has to contribute? It is a competitive market, for sure, but I think there is definitely room for something unique. There are a lot of big brands and mass market spirits, but a lot of the selection is the same that you’d find in any city anywhere. When we looked around the local bars and liquor stores we didn’t see the any of the amazing botanicals that you can find across Asia. With Paper Lantern’s Sichuan Pepper Gin we wanted to bring something new, a rice-based gin with Asian botanicals. And I think when you have something really unique that there will always be room behind the bar and on the shelves. The Sichuan pepper is not a particularly Singaporean spice. What made you choose is as the backbone of your first product? With Paper Lantern products we want to celebrate all the unique flavors that are found across Asia, and with Singapore being such a hotspot in terms of cocktail culture, that is why we wanted to launch the product here. We chose the Sichuan pepper as it is complex, delicate and aromatic and it went perfectly with its Thai cousin, the Makhwaen, which we chose for its citrus elements that balance out the spicy notes from the ginger and galangal. What will you work on next? There are so many different kinds of fruits here that we could build into our next product, so we are leaning in that direction. At some point, we would love to put some liquid into barrels and start aging. Aged gin is not unheard of in some parts of the world, and with the ability to age spirits, there is a whole new list of wonderful liquors and liqueurs we could develop. There are some climate challenges we have to figure out how to navigate first, however. Barrel aging alcohol in tropical climates is not something we have come across yet, but we are working on it. To order your bottle, support Paper Lantern Distilling's new Pozible campaign at www.pozible.com/ project/205027. MRIGAA SETHI
rn ood po f a t s n i From # igans, n a n e h Fs to #TGI hrough t y l s u ario live vic candy e y e # our #sg Follow SG on Instagram @sg_now FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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Holidays, hotels and insider travel news Henrik Kam
escapes USA
Golden Age
Four great reasons why your summer should be all about San Francisco. By Ric Stockfis Golden Gate Bridge
United Airlines
Iwan Baan
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
1
It’ll no longer take you a full day to get there
Getting to the U.S. from Singapore has been a pain in recent years, with layovers required in Hong Kong, Tokyo or elsewhere. But starting June 1, United Airlines (www. united.com) begins direct flights between Singapore and San Francisco, cutting four or more hours off the current flight time, and making this the first time since 2013 that you can get to the U.S. without a stop. The new flight departs Singapore at 8.45am daily and arrives in San Francisco 15h30m later at 9.15am the same day (thanks, International Date Line!) with the 8,446 mile journey, aboard the 787 Dreamliner, being the longest scheduled flight operated by any U.S. carrier. Returns from SingaporeSan Francisco with United Airlines start from around $1,850. You can still do it cheaper (from $1,300) with China Eastern (www.flychinaeastern.com) via Shanghai, but you’re looking at an additional seven hours to get there.
2
After three years, SFMOMA is finally reopen—and it’s three times bigger than before While conversation in San Francisco these days can too often turn to the city’s sky-high rents and the pros and cons of the tech giants on their doorstep, right now things are
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SG MAGAZINE FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016
Ocean Beach
a little more cultured. After a three-year hiatus, the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (151 Third St., www. sfmoma.org) reopened in mid-May, having undergone quite the renovation. A new, USD305 million, 10-story extension by Norwegian architects Snøhetta almost triples the display area to 175,000 sq. ft, turning it into the country’s biggest modern art gallery (it’s display space is 40 percent larger than New York’s MoMA). Reception has been mixed, with many questioning the wisdom of modelling the huge new façade after the city’s infamous fog (The Guardian called it ”a gigantic meringue with a hint of Ikea”). But there’s no denying the scale, with 19 exhibitions in the opening season alone and a huge donation (technically a 100year loan) of 1000-something pieces of art from the Fisher family, founders of The Gap, including dozens of pieces by icons like Andy Warhol, Gerhard Richter, Cy Twombly and Roy Lichtenstein. But there’s much more to it than just famous pop art, with—among many, many others— prominence for work by Ai Weiwei, a Bauhaus-inspired installation from Portuguese artist Leonor Antunes and vast, currently empty wall-space by the main staircase awaiting work by Julie Mehretu, an Ethiopian-born, New York-based artist. Whatever you make of it all, SFMOMA is the place everyone is talking about right now. It’s open daily from 10am-5pm, with late-night Thursdays till 9pm. Entry is USD25 ($34).
Cadence
3
Thanks to Twitter, some of the best dining in town is in Mid-Market
There’s been a glut of restaurant openings in the City by the Bay over the last year—more than at any point in the last 15-20 years according to a recent piece in San Francisco Magazine—and the inevitable crash is probably not too far off. For now however, many of the current hot spots are all within a short walk of one another in the MidMarket district—and it’s all (kind of) thanks to Twitter. In 2011, in an effort to stop tech firms jumping ship to Silicon Valley, the city began offering tax breaks to businesses that remained or set up in the then down-at-heel MidMarket and Tenderloin. Twitter, who’d been most vocal about potentially leaving town, chose to stay, with Spotify and others following suit. Despite question marks over whether the scheme has been a net benefit to the city, the result has been the rapid gentrification of previously dilapidated blocks, with new restaurants in abundance. Newcomer Cadence (1446 Market St.,www.cadencesf. com) is connected by a hallway to sister spot, Mr Tipple’s Recording Studio, a cocktail bar/jazz club hybrid that itself only opened at the end of last year. But whereas the latter is dark and moody, Cadence is all about ‘30s glam, with a two-sided tasting menu (meat on one, vegetarian on the other). Nearby Cala (149 Fell St., www.calarestaurant.com), which opened in September, focuses exclusively on seafood
escapes Helynn Ospira
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ESCAPE ROUTES
Luang Prabang
The Perennial
(think Santa Cruz abalone, trout tostada and Marin miyagi oysters), courtesy of Mexican star chef Gabriela Cámara—and there’s even a lunchtime tacos stand in the back. Also new on the block is The Perennial (59 Ninth St., www.theperennialsf.com), an upscale bistro from the folks behind the infamous, inventive Mission Street Food. Here they’re championing progressive farming through “eco-friendly comfort food,” such as morels with sprouted wheatberries, and trying to make the entire operation, “the most environmental ever.”
4
The outer ‘burbs are on the up
Outer Sunset, which abuts the windswept Ocean Beach out West, isn’t somewhere most tourists venture. But thanks to cheap(er) rents, this primarily residential (and often foggy) suburb is becoming increasingly popular, with the surf-bum-poets not yet forced out by all the new money. Outerlands (4001 Judah St., www.outerlandssf.com), a socially-conscious, rustic eatery offers the best brunch for miles. The name might hark back
Yangon
to a time when no-one in their right mind would venture out this far, but be warned: these days you can queue for hours. If you’d rather not wait—quite so long—try the cultish cinnamon toast at Trouble Coffee & Coconut Club (4033 Judah St.) right next door or go browse the cool handmade wares at General Store (4035 Judah St., www.visitgeneralstore. com). A little further away, the huge Sunset Reservoir Brewing Company (1735 Noriega St., www.sunsetbeersf.com), which opened up at the end of 2014, serving five of its own beers alongside an eclectic pubgrub menu, is the latest venture from the owners of the hugely popular Devil’s Teeth Baking Company (3876 Noriega St., www. devilsteethbakingcompany.com) down near the beach. Ocean Beach itself is notoriously windswept—it’s a challenging surf spot— but it’s a great place to get away from the city. And as Outer Sunset historically housed many of the city’s Asian immigrants, you can even finish up with a taste of home at Polly Ann Ice Cream (3138 Noriega St., www. pollyannicecream), which has been serving up sesame, lychee and durian flavors for more than half a century.
ESSENTIALS WHERE TO STAY Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco (757 Market St., www.fourseasons. com) is right in the heart of town, near Union Square and next door to the newly-reopened SFMOMA and the rest of the Yerba Buena Arts District. With 277 rooms spread across 12 floors of a 42-storey building, it’s a fancy spot that makes a great base for exploring: cable cars, street cars and the BART Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco are all right outside the door. Dining is at MKT, a classy, wood-panelled space harking back to the early days of newspaper printing in the city, with a locally-focused menu and a stylish adjacent bar. The on-site Equinox Sports Club is one of the city’s largest fitness centers, and access to the facilities, including a basketball court, boxing ring and indoor pool is complimentary to hotel guests. Rooms start from USD445 ($610). VISA Most Singaporeans traveling for less than 90 days do not require a visa and can travel under the Visa Waiver Program, though you’ll need to be authorized through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (www.esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta/) prior to your trip.
St. Regis Kuala Lumpur
Cambodia Railway
HOTELS
Japan in KL
St. Regis Kuala Lumpur (goo.gl/173HKb) is the Malaysian capital’s latest luxe hotel opening. Supposedly taking its cues from Manhattan high-rises, the hotels offers 208 elegant rooms and suites. For now only the Deluxe rooms are available— opening rates start from RM1,084. The highlight might be the six in-house restaurants and bars including Taka by Sushi Saito, the first restaurant to open outside Tokyo by three Michelin-starred chef Takashi Saito, and Ginza Tenkuni, a branch of a 131-year-old Japanese restaurant that serves Edo-style tempura. The hotel is handily located within spitting distance of attractions like the National Monument, Sri Kondaswamy Kovil Hindu Temple and Little India. FLIGHTS
Easy Transit
If you have a penchant for choosing holiday destinations a little off the beaten trail, then the historic city of Luang Prabang in north central Laos would definitely be on your radar. You’ll have a much easier way to get there come Oct 31 when SilkAir begins flights to Luang Prabang via Vientiane. The flights will be available on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays, departing Singapore-Vientiane-Luang Prabang and returning Luang Prabang-Singapore. Fare details are currently unavailable; stay tuned at www.silkair.com. MYANMAR
Yangon Untangled
Yangon’s notoriously bad public transport just got better now that the government has installed a new BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) system for the city. Twenty-five billion kyat ($27.1 million) has built them three lines which run from Hyauk Kyant to Pyay, Kabar Aye to the city center, and Hkaing Tharyar to Botahtaung Pagoda. With 120 buses running, the service covers at least 80 percent of the total area of Yangon, with 100 more buses to come if this pilot scheme is successful. Tickets cost next to nothing at 300 kyat ($0.35) per person, while transit cards start from 1,000-10,000 kyat ($1.17-$11.70). CAMBODIA
All Aboard
Cambodia has operated its first passenger train service in 14 years, following a suspension because of poor railway conditions. Managed by The Royal Railway (royal-railway.com), the service runs between the capital Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville, the southwestern seaport and resort town. The 270km journey takes eight hours and costs just US$6 ($8.20) each way. That’s as cheap, if not cheaper, than most bus services. It’s also considerably slower than driving, though it means you can avoid the notorious National Highway 4. For now, there is one train available three days a week (Friday, Saturday and Sunday).
FRIDAY, JUNE 3, 2016 SG MAGAZINE
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last word
Gan Guo Yi Just four years after the inception of Jigger & Pony, the Amoy Street watering hole, along with two other bars by husband and wife team Indra Katono and Gan Guo Yi, have made the Asia’s Best Bars list at #8 (Jigger & Pony), #22 (Gibson) and #48 (Sugarhall). Here, Chelsia Tan speaks to the boss lady on how she made the transition from being a flight attendant to the co-owner of three of Singapore’s hottest bars and the biggest challenge about being in F&B.
As a child I used to ruffle in the outdoors a lot. My family had a small hobby prawn farm on Pulau Ubin so as a kid I remember going to the island a lot over the weekends. After six years with Singapore Airlines, I felt like I wanted to do something different. But I really loved my job! If not for Jigger & Pony, I would most probably still be with SQ.
My husband and I have distinct roles within the organization—he takes care of the finance and marketing side of the business, and I am involved more with hospitality and operations.
“Bartending is not a career most local parents would promote for their daughters, which could perhaps explain why there aren’t as many women bartenders in Singapore.”
I don’t think I actually knew I wanted to become a restaurant or bar owner. It just happened. Jigger & Pony stemmed from my desire to have a place where people could gather and have a good time. I use a lot of my experience as a stewardess in my dayto-day service. There is just an added component of being a business owner that requires me to put on a different hat sometimes—be a manager and leader and make critical decisions.
Singapore is a regional hub in Southeast Asia. We have a very dynamic influx of personalities and ideas that contributes to the vibrancy of the cocktail scene. Over the years Singapore has slowly gained more recognition and credibility in the cocktail world, with nine of our local bars placing within Asia’s Top 50 Best Bars list recently.
Sure, the negative part of owning a nightlife empire in Singapore includes licensing issues and exponential rent increases, but the great thing is these issues can be more easily navigated than the other intangible problems you might have to face.
It’s no secret that manpower is the biggest challenge our industry is facing. We are not excluded from this and have spent a lot of time building our people pipeline. In order to overcome this we have invested heavily in our people. Some of the initiatives include mentorship programs, buddy systems, performance reviews and external trainings. The program we choose really depends on each individual’s needs. Culturally, I do not think bartending is a career most local parents would promote for their daughters, which could perhaps explain why there aren’t as many women bartenders in Singapore. It is great that our hawker culture is getting a lot of attention right now. I certainly feel there is room in the market where high-quality hawker food can command premium prices, in upmarket food centers and in restaurants. That way, we balance the need for affordable everyday food, and the economic feasibility for the culture to continue.
To rise above [oversaturated F&B] trends is to continuously innovate. Aki, our bar program director, used to always repeat “kaizen”, meaning change for better, to me and I have really taken to it.
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