The Success of Modern Meadow and BioFur: How Luxury Brands Can Utilise Them? By SHANNON ABIGAIL TIRTHA F16FD0692
A Research Paper Submitted in Partial Fulfilment for DFS3114 RESEARCH SKILLS FOR EXTENDED WRITING AY 18-19 S1 Diploma Thought by: Charlene Soon Pinyi
NANYANG ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS SINGAPORE
 Diploma in Fashion Design
Date: November 15, 2018
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TABLE OF CONTENT
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INTRODUCTION …………………………………………………………………….…3
II. PURPOSE OF RESEARCH ………………………………………………………..……4 III. REVIEW OF LITERATURE 1. Biotechnology ……………………………………………………………………………5 2. Luxury Branding …………………………………………………………………………7 IV. METHODOLOGY ………………………………………………………………….……9 V. ANALYSIS ………………………………………………………………….……….….12 VI. CONCLUSION ……………………………………………………………………….…13 VII.BIBLIOGRAPHY ………………………………………………………………….……14 VIII.APPENDIX ………………………………………………………………………..……15 1. Survey Questions and Answers
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I. INTRODUCTION The green world is no longer green, and an ideal sustainable earth is fading out. Human beings tend to enjoy the pleasure of the world, but they have minor knowledge that the luxury lifestyle is killing our earth. Take faux fur and leather as an example. We have not thoroughly comprehended that it harms the earth to a great extent. Even though it has been a rising issue, luxury brands start to alter their preference from real leather and fur toward faux one due to unethical reasons that PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animal) consistently remonstrate. Little do we know that excessive production of faux fur is unsustainable. Faux furs are made up of acrylic and polyester, which is not considered biodegradable as it takes 500 to 1000 years to biodegrade. Furthermore, faux fur and leather has contributed 2.3 times to the climate change and 2.7 times to the consumption of raw materials (Refinery29.com, 2018). Thus, it is adequate to prove that faux fur and leather are terrible materials. Breaking boundaries has significantly been shown in modern technologies. It acquires researchers to invent bio-fabricate materials as an excellent choice to replace the precarious materials. By this period, author quoted that we can make up two materials; modern meadow and bio fur. Modern meadow refer to the development of lab grown leather, while bio fur refers to lab grown pelts. This lab grown materials are very customisable and are able to increase its performance and durability. The new techno-material likewise more eco-friendly and reduce significant amount of cruelty upon innocent beings (HuffPost, 2018). Modern Meadow and Bio Fur claimed to lead fashion companies that their materials are luxurious. The notion of luxury, there is image of exclusivity and as the act of innovation. Luxury fashion customer seek unique and products that reflects the brand artistic and tradition (Hancock et al., 2014). By the success of Modern Meadow and Bio Fur, luxury brands should be able to manage the evident understanding of their customers needs, identity, and accentuate upon sustainable and high quality materials (Tu, 2014).
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II. PURPOSE OF RESEARCH Viewing upon the uprising concern of faux fur and leather, researchers have managed to produce a new technology based on the blueprint of the real pelts and leather (Ishani, 2018). Modern Meadow and BioFur are startups establishing lab-grown materials with the theory of biotechnology. Here, the innovative startups brought a new, unique and eco-friendly material, that is believe luxurious. Modern Meadow and Bio Fur were produced in such manner that all the goods are more emphasised upon its quality, innovation, and its sustainability. Within this research paper, the invention of Modern Meadow and BioFur would be observe whether or not it suits the level of luxury brands, aiming to become their leather and fur supplier. To enhance my analysis, luxury brands customers will be surveyed, to affirm the research method. This research would help Modern Meadow and BioFur empower the fashion companies as the prime choice of leather and fur supplier.
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III. REVIEW OF LITERATURE 1. Biotechnology In general, biotechnology is technology based on biology. Adopting biotechnology in textile, had been a great invention to a prospective green conscious world. The technology had been the core of biotech startups to invent various kinds of eco-friendly fabrics (Johnson, 2016). The process that produce biotech fabric popularly is called bio fabrication. According to World’s Global Style Network (WGSN), a forecasting website, leather and fur are two key materials that keep going on the trend through generations. The application of leather and fur is integral to apparels such as jacket, accessories and handbags. As stated previously, brands start shifting from real leather and fur to not biodegradable environmentally dangerous material, faux fur and leather due to ethical reasons.
Fig. 1 Successful lab-grown leather by Modern Meadow
Modern Meadow and Bio Fur is a biotech startup, which develop bio-fabricated leather and fur without animals. Modern Meadow and Bio Fur use DNA editing technique by taking the base pairs of DNA from the desired animal. DNA is the molecule that brings hereditary material, found in every cells of living organism. The DNA is then cut and replaced with new base pairs to construct new, unique strands of DNA. Protein collagen is the building block of leather by putting the DNA into cells to multiply and design to fibres. It forms bio leather and bio fur. Last, the biomaterial is
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then tanned and finished in environmentally responsible way (Johnson, 2016). It was also to be noted that by using modern techniques of mead owing, it reduces risks of having an irregular shapes of natural animal hides, waste, volatility caused by the unpredicted weather, and most important, a decrease in cruelty on animals and environment. Processes like dyeing and finishing will also be more efficient when using biomaterials.
 The idea of taking the base pairs of DNA of the desired animal in such manner, the DNA works as software codes. The DNA are able to be edited to perform and simulate as the customer coveted. As the exploration still going on (shown on fig.1), the successful lab-grown leather by Modern Meadow, they have possible opportunity to diagnose more textures, designs, and distinct animal’s leather and fur characteristics.
 The start-ups have already got interest worth over $100B / year. Because of its high cost in production, this emphasises on goods classified to be luxurious (The Business of Fashion, 2018). It attracts car seats company and luxury brands of handbags. This innovation will further pushed clothing lines to be more adjustable in their texture, durability, elasticity, and its breathability. By this, products of materials can also be exclusively made meaning that no other brand is supposedly own the type of material variation one brand is using (Jackson et al., 2018). The bio leather and fur will also produce a unique and exclusive prints and patterns embracing the brand identity that will make it more highly valued indeed (The Business of Fashion, 2018).
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2. Luxury Branding Due to the rapid growing of consumer forum, the theory of “luxury” keeps evolving. Ancestry luxury brands known for their character, approach, artistry and handiwork as well as designs (Danziger, 2018). High quality and crafted responsibly products and socially and environmentally conscious yet authentic, is what luxury are demanded for. Since creating customer is the main goal of business, the direction for luxury brand is to observe that consumer is the final mediator of luxury (Danziger, 2018). Brands shall be capable to attain the coherent understanding of their customer call for (Tu, 2014). By this, marketing and innovation are two exclusive enterprise of the trade. Dealing with luxury, consumers are looking for inventive, unique and exclusivity of the brand (Hancock et al., 2014) with the feel of rare and hard to get. Thus, luxury expressed by high quality and workmanship, authenticity, and culturally engaged and naturally attentive (Danziger, 2018). In contemporary, by the advantage of technology, construction of luxury products are linked with the benefit of modern machineries. In the other hand, assuming that a luxury object is defined construe directly on its scarcity and demanding manufacture system, it will lose its purpose when the effort is removed (Christina, 2016). However, the definition and meaning of luxury keeps evolving through times. Luxury today defined as innovation. Modernisation in designs, textiles and other new things that was impossible in the past has become possible now. It challenges luxury brands the need to keep their tradition balanced meanwhile poignant advance, to attract new luxury customer. (Danziger, 2018).
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Fig 2. (top left to bottom right) Chanel with calfskin and caviar skin, Louis Vuitton with Vaschetta skin, Saint Laurent with crocodileile and suede skin, Prada with calf skin.
Fig 3. Victoria Beckham with HĂŠrmes Crocodile Skin Birkin Bag.
In conception of innovation, luxury brands turn up losing their sustainability and substantially conscious. Chanel is known for their tradition and classic design, with innovation of caviar skin bag as their most popular material. Caviar skin came from caviar fish that is popularly known for the high price due to hard to get factor. It has water-repellent attribute and easier to maintain than calfskin, which cause it to be very durable. Vaschetta leather, is Louis Vuitton classic material made from untreated cowhide. With the LV logo printed on the leather, Vaschetta skin become exclusive and beloved. These Vaschetta leather also aged beautifully with its patina that makes the leather more mature and darken in colour. Gucci is known for their amazing innovation but they are rarely stayed on their tradition. The use of endangered animal applied on their products make Gucci innovation gone to the wrong way. However, Gucci has manage to go fur free for their 2018 new collection. The post got the best respond from customers, getting the most liked of all time.
Fig 6. Prove Gucci claiming going fur-free from 2018 Fig 4. Marco Bizzarri
Fig 5. Gucci kangaroo loafer
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IV. METHODOLOGY To advance biotech startups, Modern Meadow and BioFur, their possibility to supply leather and fur to luxury fashion brands. Knowledge from both key terms have been accumulated and analysed to form a quantitative research method, to test these hypothesis. H1. Different generation and gender with and without buying power of luxury brands have different opinions toward luxury identity. Using demographic survey questions, asking the gender, age range and income per-month to support hypothesis 1. Survey will be spread in probability manner sampling. By this, to show diverse responds from the customer. H2. People tend to think about sustainability of a product. By giving a psychological question, by giving a situation to the respondents of whether or not they thought about sustainability while shopping. H3. Definition of luxury by the characteristic the brand should have based on consumer perspective is exclusivity and materials. As stated on the review of literature, consumer as the mediator of luxury. H4. Aspects that attract consumer to buy specific brand of luxury products is because of exclusivity and materials. Brand should know the needs and wants of their customer to achieve successful marketing. H5. Modern Meadow and BioFur lab-grown leather and pelts as supplier to luxury brands will be accepted and supported by the market. From the literature review, describing the performance of the lab-grown leather and pelts, and survey shown from other’s case study, it is shown that other brands supporting the innovation.
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The survey was distributed to men and women aged 18 and above with different backgrounds and income, to show different perspective and responses. Starting the survey with simple knowledge of the research’s key terms to give concise understanding of the question followed. The question curated around with intent on getting consumer reaction towards luxury brand with innovative material, Modern Meadow and BioFur lab-grown leather and fur, as their leather and pelts suppliers. On the first three questions, survey asked about demographic questions, such as gender, age range and income per month to answer hypothesis 1. Question 4 is about which brand have the most popularity among society, and followed by question 5, why do they love the brand. Here to know various answers what attract consumer to buy luxury products. Q6. What is the most important characteristic from luxury brand? Brand loyalty Sustainability and ethical material Exclusivity and signature pieces Design • From consumer perspective, to know their definition of luxury should be. Here to support hypothesis 3. Q9. Which one matter most in purchase decision of a luxury items? Quality - strong and durable Material - sustainable, ethical, durable and biodegradable Brand loyalty - you tend to buy luxury brand because of the brand Design - unique, innovative and on trend • What consumer really consider while shopping luxury items. Different generation, monthly income and gender will have different perspective when it comes to purchase decision.
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Q10. If two brands use the same material with their signature printing ( for instance Fendi and Louis Vuitton). Which purchase decision do you prefer? I will buy from my favourite brand I will buy base on the designs that I like I will not buy • To know consumer behaviour towards exclusivity of products and brand loyalty. Q11. If your favourite brand uses Modern Meadow and BioFur lab-grown fur and leather, Are you going to buy it? Yes or no question. • To know the acceptance ratio of Modern Meadow and BioFur in society as the supplier of luxury brands.
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V. ANALYSIS Survey has been answered by 83 people with probability manner sampling. By this, diverse answers were gathered to achieve the aim of the research method. 61.4% respondents are women and 56.6% are above 35 years old. From 83 respondents, their income per month mostly SGD$ 1,000 with the percentage of 43,4%, while respondents with income more than SGD$ 5,000/month are only 13,3% of the total responds. This show that women above 35 years old with income of SGD$1000/month as the mode answer. Most of the respondents do not have buying power of luxury brands. Positioning as the most favourite brand, Chanel 39.8%, Gucci 33.7%, followed by Louis Vuitton 30.1% as the choice of the respondents. Followed with their reasons, It is shown that people love the brand because of their designs (41 of 83 responds) and quality with 14 answers. To further my research, 39% of respondents thought sustainability and ethical material is the characteristic of luxury brands, while consumer purchase decision of luxury items based on the quality of the product. From the survey spread, 87.6% of the responds are open with Modern Meadow and BioFur as luxury brands’ leather and fur supplier, while the other 12.2% of the respondents are still considering as they have never experience the labgrown leather and fur.
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VI. CONCLUSION Modern Meadow and BioFur inventions are align with luxury brands core values. The labgrown leather and fur are identified to be luxurious goods. With its innovation, sustainable and ethical products, it helps luxury brands to be environmentally conscious. Furthermore, Modern Meadow and BioFur attained to manufacture exclusive material in definition each luxury brands have their own licensed leather and fur. This provide designers to do more experimentations and explores on different medium to obtain various advanced results. Based on the survey, public has good responses toward Modern Meadow and BioFur as the supplier of luxury brands. As said on literature review part 2, customer is the ultimate arbiters of luxury. By this, Modern Meadow and BioFur subsequently have brilliant possibility to alleviate luxury brands not only luxurious aspects but also more innovative and creative, following the demand of contemporary customer.
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VII. BIBLIOGRAPHY Refinery29.com. (2018). Faux Fur: Good For Ethics, Bad For The Planet?. [online] Available at: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/faux-fur-environmental-impact [Accessed 30 Aug. 2018]. Johnson, M. (2018). 5 Ways Biofabrication Will Transform the Fashion Industry. [online] Blog.onestop.com. Available at: http://blog.onestop.com/5-ways-biofabrication-willtransform-the-fashion-industry [Accessed 6 Sep. 2018]. HuffPost. (2018). Fashion's Biological Future Is Now. [online] Available at: https:// www.huffpost.com/entry/fashions-biological-futur_b_7867424 [Accessed 6 Sep. 2018]. Jackson, B., Iftikhar, U., Vialva, T., Lord, B. and Petch, M. (2018). Modern Meadow launches ZOA - the world's first biofabricated leather - 3D Printing Industry. [online] 3D Printing Industry. Available at: https://3dprintingindustry.com/news/modern-meadow-launches-zoaworlds-first-biofabricated-leather-122023/ [Accessed 6 Sep. 2018]. Ishani, U. (2018). Will Biofabrication Change The Clothing Industry? | World Top Updates. [online] World Top Updates. Available at: http://www.worldtopupdates.com/willbiofabrication-change-the-clothing-industry/ [Accessed 6 Sep. 2018]. The Business of Fashion. (2018). With Lab-Grown Leather, Modern Meadow Is Engineering a Fashion Revolution. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ fashion-tech/bof-exclusive-with-lab-grown-leather-modern-meadow-is-bio-engineering-afashion-revolution [Accessed 6 Sep. 2018]. Christina, S. (2016). Can A 21st Century Exploration of Luxury, Unearth New Meaning Through Exploring Product, Practice, Essence and Time?. Tu, Y. (2014). The Future of Sustainable Fashion In The Industry. Hancock, J., Muratovski, G., Manlow, V. and Peirson-Smith, A. (2014). Global fashion brands. Bristol: Intellect.
Danziger, P. (2018). Luxury Brands: Innovation Is No Luxury, But A Necessity. [online] Forbes. Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2017/08/08/ luxury-brands-innovation-is-no-luxury-but-a-necessity/ [Accessed 31 Oct. 2018].
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VIII. APPENDIX Survey Questions and Answers
Fig 7. Question and Answer 1
Fig 8. Question and Answer 2
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! Fig 9. Question and Answer 3
! Fig 10. Question and Answer 4
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Fig 11. Question and Answer 5
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Fig 12. Question and Answer 5
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Fig 13. Question and Answer 5
Fig 14. Question and Answer 6
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Fig 15. Question and Answer 7
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Fig 16. Question and Answer 8
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! Fig 17. Question and Answer 9
! Fig 18. Question and Answer 10
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