PRESENTED BY
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U LT I M AT E
FOOD
GUIDE
2020
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2020
THE TRIANGLE’S ULTIMATE FOOD GUIDE “I have a weak spot for ‘bar food,’ so: lizard chips and a blueberry wheat beer at Top of the Hill Restaurant & Brewery; poutine and a margarita from Parts & Labor; or a basket of loaded tots and whatever new beer just came in (they’ve got one of the best selections in town!) at Dain’s Place.”
MANAGING EDITOR Hannah Lee EXECUTIVE MANAGING EDITOR Amanda MacLaren
What do you order when you want to indulge?
EDITOR Jessica Stringer CREATIVE DIRECTOR Kevin Brown ART DIRECTOR Jean Carlos Rosario-Montalvo GRAPHIC DESIGNER Lauren Wilkinson
“A huge waffle cone of ice cream, whether it’s sweet corn with blackberry swirl at The Parlour or the flavor of the week at Whit’s Frozen Custard!”
“The pork belly dumplings and short rib wontons from Juju.”
PHOTOGRAPHER Beth Mann PRODUCTION MANAGER Lizzie Jones
Taste is published by Shannon Media Inc., the parent company of Heart of NC Weddings, Chapel Hill Magazine, Durham Magazine and Chatham Magazine. 1777 Fordham Blvd., Ste. 105, Chapel Hill, NC 27514 tel 919.933.1551 fax 919.933.1557 tastetheevent.com heartofncweddings.com chapelhillmagazine.com durhammag.com chathammagazinenc.com
EDITORIAL, DIGITAL & MARKETING COORDINATOR Marie Muir EDITORIAL INTERNS Renee Ambroso, Katie Barham, Mia Cooper, Laney Dalton, Jade Earnhardt, Aniya Ellison, James Hatfield, Jalon Hill, Megan Pociask, Sarah Rollins, Iphigenia Sarrimanolis, Anna Southwell, Daniel Stevenson and Naomi Wright ADVERTISING Melissa Crane
“One of my favorite indulgences is steamed Maine lobster with lots of melted butter from Squid’s.”
melissa@chapelhillmagazine.com
Chris Elkins
chris@chathammagazinenc.com
Lauren Phillips
“A Fullsteam Brewery burger, Monuts Donuts and a cocktail featuring Conniption Gin from Durham Distillery – though maybe not together.”
lauren@durhammag.com
CORPORATE CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Rory Kelly Gillis PRESIDENT Dan Shannon VICE PRESIDENT OF PLANNING & DEVELOPMENT Ellen Shannon PUBLISHER, HEART OF NC WEDDINGS Jenna Parks VICE PRESIDENT OF FINANCE AND ADMINISTRATION Amy Bell DISTRIBUTION Caleb Rushing
2 taste — 2020
“Whenever I’m feeling especially gluttonous, I hop over to Geer Street Garden for ‘The Pile’ – French fries with melted cheddar cheese, bacon, jalapeños, fried chicken, gravy, cheese sauce and your choice of two side sauces.”
“Any baked goods from Loaf and Guglhupf, pork chops from Firsthand Foods, fried chicken from Acme Food & Beverage Co., a piña colada from Alley Twenty Six and fried oysters from Bar Virgile.” “What’s better than a generous portion of falafel and hummus in a pita from Mediterranean Deli? Nothing.”
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CONTENTS TASTE 2020
6 EDITOR’S LETTER 8 DRINKS ALL AROUND
A guide to 30-plus new and established breweries, distilleries and cideries in our area
18
MAKE A STIR Culinary experiences, shops, markets and more
46
8
MEANINGFUL MEALS Celebrate special occasions – or just make Tuesday night dinner extraordinary – with these beloved dishes from local chefs
59
EAT BETWEEN THE LINES Books by local chefs to inspire your cooking routine GLOBAL
INFLUENCE
30
30
FOR GOODNESS BAKES Pastries started as passion but became serious business for this restaurateur
32
SLICE OF LIFE Catching up with brothers Angelo Marrone and Vincenzo Marrone of Italian Pizzeria III as their West Franklin Street restaurant celebrates 40 years
34
SOMETHING NEW Discover traditional Zimbabwean dishes at a spot halfway between Durham and Chapel Hill
46
38
SALAD DAYS Robert and Fida Ghanem thrive alongside their decades-old businesses, Saladelia and The Mad Hatter’s Cafe & Bakeshop
42
A FULL PLATE How our community benefits from the generosity of chef Vimala Rajendran
4 taste — 2020
(clockwise from top right) Photo by Beth Mann; Photo by James Stefiuk; Photo by Briana Brough
PREMIER KITCHEN DESIGN AND REMODELING FIRM SERVING THE TRIANGLE FOR 30 YEARS
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LETTER
HANNAH LEE MANAGING EDITOR
The Cover StrawberryGinger-Lime Mini Galette PHOTO BY LAUREN V. ALLEN
6 taste — 2020
FAITH IN FOOD
S
ince March (though it feels so much longer), my dad, a restaurant owner and chef of more than three decades, has come to a standstill. This is new for the man who has always sprinted rather than walked since he moved to the U.S. from Kolkata, India, when he was just a teenager with a dream to open a fine-dining restaurant. Now, in the middle of a once-unimagined pandemic, the man who owns and operates seven restaurants, whose dishes are as intricately beautiful as they are delicious, has to slow down as he deals with an entirely new set of challenges. He’s not alone. Like my dad and his businesses all over the South – from Winston-Salem to Charlotte to Charleston, South Carolina – restaurants owners, who already operate on razor-thin margins, faced closings and reduced-capacity restrictions. Although they are treading water, their passion and love for the community and profession is unwavering. Inspired by my dad, we honor a few beloved immigrantrun restaurants starting on page 30. I’d like to believe that this pandemic will end soon. For now, however, as we all spend more time at home, we have the chance to practice and gain confidence in the kitchen (my own included – this apple fell far from the chef-minded tree), and many, hopefully, will incorporate newfound cooking habits into this “new normal.” If you’re looking for a place to start, try the recipes from some of our local restaurants that begin on page 46. Or take your skills to the next level by picking up one of the three cookbooks by renowned local chefs on page 59. I encourage you to explore our area’s takeout options or see which businesses are offering dine-in services. Support our restaurant community in any way you can. I know my dad – and chefs just like him – will thank you.
Try Our Fresh, New Taste of NC.
For 17 years, we’ve been your go-to source for discoveries and day trips. Now, we’re excited to present our new, more dynamic NC Weekend. Join Deborah Holt Noel for tasty bites of the best things to see and do in NC.
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DRINKS ALL AROUND
A guide to 30-plus new and established breweries, distilleries and cideries in our area
BY HANNAH LEE | ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRISTIN KING, DESIGNER AT @CK.CREATIONS
The COVID-19 pandemic forced popular watering holes to close for months and then reopen well below capacity. To make up for that missed time, we made a checklist for you to try some new and unfamiliar spots. Start in Durham and head southwest toward Chatham County. These local establishments need your support, so let’s not waste time.
Durham County MYSTIC FARM & DISTILLERY
Stop by for a cocktail made with fresh ingredients and handcrafted spirits on Friday evenings and on Saturdays. Reserve a tour for an in-depth look at the production of Heart of Mystic Bourbon Whiskey, Mystic Bourbon Liqueur and its Mystic 57 Navy Strength Gin. 1212 N. Mineral Springs Rd.; whatismystic.com
HI-WIRE BREWING CO.
THE BROTHERS VILGALYS SPIRITS COMPANY
Offerings include Krupnikas, a Lithuanian spiced honey liqueur, plus four other liqueurs called Zaphod, Beebop, Beatnik and Jabberwock, all flavored with herbs, spices and other botanicals. 803 D Ramseur St.; 919-617-1746; brothersvilgalys.com
HONEYGIRL MEADERY
The meadery offers a unique glimpse into the world of the honeybee with award-winning, hand-crafted meads – wines made from honey using various ingredients. Its downtown tasting room and bottle shop offers a rotating seasonal lineup of meads ranging from dry to semi-sweet to lightly sparkling. Choose a flight or a guided mead tasting. 105 Hood St., Ste. 6; 919-399-3056; honeygirlmeadery.com
This taproom is Hi-Wire’s first outside of Asheville. It consists of 8,844 square feet of interior space, as well as a 1,678-square-foot outdoor covered patio and beer garden. There are full-sized shuffleboard courts, soccer pool, table tennis and more. The bar’s 24 taps feature the brewery’s full lineup of beers, including year-round staples, seasonal specials, sours and one-offs, as well as wine, local cider and guest taps from neighboring breweries. Directly outside the brewery is the newest outdoor performing arts stage at Golden Belt. 800 Taylor St.; 919-295-3700; hiwirebrewing.com/hi-wire-brewing-durham
8 taste — 2020
PONYSAURUS BREWING CO.
Specializes in traditional recipes of various styles of beer including IPAs, a Scottish ale and imperial stouts. Grab some salty and sweet snacks for just $1 per scoop, or order food to cook on one of the outdoor grills you can reserve! Head to their patio for a bite to eat from the food trucks that are almost always on hand. 219 Hood St.; 919-584-4265; ponysaurusbrewing.com
BULL CITY CIDERWORKS
BULL DURHAM BEER CO.
The brewery began pouring at its location in the Durham Bulls Athletic Park’s main concourse in 2015. It was the first beer company at a Minor League Baseball stadium. 409 Blackwell St.; 919-744-3568; bulldurhambeer.com
The cidery’s six year-round mainstays include the Off Main (classic cider), Sweet Carolina (made with local honey), Cherry Tart (Montmorency cherries), Smooth Hoperator (dry hopped), Rhize Up! (fresh ginger) and Orange You a Hippie (sweet orange peel and hibiscus flowers), plus seasonal varieties that include habanero peppers, cinnamon and many other ingredients. 305 S. Roxboro St.; 919-237-2357; bullcityciderworks.com
TOBACCO ROAD SPORTS CAFE
Overlooking the Durham Bulls Athletic Park on the American Tobacco Campus, this restaurant and brewery offers brews from its Raleigh-based brewery, Tobacco Road Brewing, which officially started brewing in 2017. From the funky Fuzz Peach Sour Pale Ale to its classic Kilowatt Kolsch, there’s a wide variety of beer offerings. 280 S. Mangum St., Ste. 100; 919-937-9909; tobaccoroadsportscafe.com/durham
BULL CITY BURGER AND BREWERY A family-friendly, locally-owned and independent craft brewery and restaurant featuring award-winning beer made from locally sourced ingredients. You can usually find the Parrish Street Pale Ale or the Bryant Bridge Gateway Golden Ale on tap, but check in at different points in the seasons for special variations. 107 E. Parrish St.; 919-680-2333; bullcityburgerandbrewery.com
FULLSTEAM BREWERY
The frontrunner of the “plow-to-pint” movement, brewing beers with local grain, foraged fruits and seasonal botanicals. In 2018, it won three Good Food Awards – the only brewery in the country to receive three wins in a single year. Its flagship pilsner, Paycheck, won gold for best American Pilsner in the U.S. Beer Open in 2019. Its full kitchen offers seasonal entrees, small plates, sandwiches, bar snacks and catering services. Its owner, Sean Lilly Wilson, is a four-time James Beard Award semifinalist. 726 Rigsbee Ave.; 919-682-2337; fullsteam.ag
DURTY BULL BREWING CO.
Barrel-aged, sour and hoppy brews. Dog-friendly with live music, open mic comedy and other events. Chosen by Beer Advocate as one of the 34 best new breweries in the U.S. in 2016. 206 Broadway St., Ste. 104; 919-688-2337; durtybull.com
2020 — taste 9
Drinks All Around
LIBERTY & PLENTY DISTILLERY
Named after the two robed figures in North Carolina's state seal, this startup craft distillery is currently under development within a circa 1938 industrial brick building in downtown. According to its owner and head distiller, Tina Williford of Raleigh, Liberty & Plenty will produce rum, whiskey, gin and flavored vodkas. The physical facility, designed by pod architecture + design, will accommodate product tasting, retail displays, bottle sales, and indoor and outdoor casual seating. It’s slated to open in January 2021. 609 Foster St.
DURHAM DISTILLERY
FLYING BULL BEER COMPANY
Ninth Street's first nanobrewery and taproom, the Flying Bull opened in August 2020. Founded by partners Joel Miles and Anna Bloch, Flying Bull offers a selection of 24 taps, which includes Flying Bull's own small-batch craft beer, plus a few other North Carolina favorites. Flying Bull also sells 32 oz. crowlers and 64 oz. growlers of any beer on tap as well as pre-packaged craft beer to go. The taproom is safely spaced out with a recently constructed outdoor beer garden. As soon as safety guidelines permit, there will also be social dance events. 752 Ninth St.; 984-464-0695; facebook.com/flyingbullbrewery
STARPOINT BREWING
Founded in 2013 and opened in 2015 by Melissa Katrincic and Lee Katrincic, the craft gin and liqueur distillery produces premium gins using a two-step process, which combines traditional gin-making techniques with modern chemistry to create both classic and contemporary spirits. Under the flagship name, Conniption, its gins are among the most-awarded craft gins distilled in the U.S., earning more than 50 national and international awards. In 2018, it was named the No. 1 craft gin distillery in the nation by USA Today. The distillery also produces canned cocktails, colddistilled cucumber vodka and liqueurs, and is on the verge of opening its cocktail bar, Corpse Reviver. 711 Washington St.; 919-937-2121; durhamdistillery.com
CLOUDS BREWING
Based in Raleigh, this American-style restaurant and brewery with a German flair opened in Durham in fall 2016. It’s home to 40-plus rotating taps with local and craft beer, including its own German-inspired brews – plus bar bites every day and brunch on the weekends. 905 W. Main St.; 919-251-8096; cloudsbrewing.com
The seven-barrel facility in the Rockwood Shopping Center is located in the same space as Beer Study. The brewery serves local brews for visitors to enjoy in their lounge areas, complete with arcade games and comfy leather sofas. 2501 University Dr.; 984-219-7538; starpointbrewing.com
GRAYBEARD DISTILLERY
The largest grain-to-glass distiller in North Carolina, Graybeard uses a process perfected over the past seven centuries by the owner’s Irish ancestors to create Bedlam Vodka, its flagship spirit, with a unique sweet floral nose and notes of vanilla. It recently opened its doors to tours and was named one of the 10 best vodka brands in the world by Liquorista in 2018. Bedlam was also awarded Double Gold status and named one of the Fifty Best Domestic Vodkas by The Fifty Best publication. 4625 Industry Ln.; 984-888-5041; bedlamvodka.com
10 taste — 2020
Drinks All Around
BARREL CULTURE BREWING AND BLENDING
This brewery has 18 taps and a diverse beer list of in-house brews. It produces mixed fermentation ales like Peach Apricot and The Pie Time Series, along with hazy IPAs, lagers and pastry stouts. 4913 Alston Ave.; 919-908-9659; barrelculture.com
Orange County
THE GLASS JUG BEER LAB
This craft brewery, beer garden and retail beer and wine shop has 24 taps that it rotates through new house-made beers and guest taps, with wine and cider also available. Crowlers and growlers are always available to go, and cans of Glass Jug beers are released several times a year. The Glass Jug has won numerous medals for its beer. In 2016, the North Carolina Retail Merchants Association named The Glass Jug as a retailer of the year. 5410 Hwy. 55, Ste. V; 919-813-0135; glass-jug.com
BOTANIST & BARREL
Just outside downtown Hillsborough is Orange County’s first winery and cidery. Botanist & Barrel crafts a variety of ciders, sours and dry fruit wines using techniques from wine-making, brewing and mixology. Visitors can spend the day picking blueberries (June to August) and tasting cider, wine, local craft beer and prepared foods, all in a scenic farm setting. 105 Persimmon Hill Ln., Cedar Grove; 919-644-7777; botanistandbarrel.com
TOP OF THE HILL RESTAURANT & BREWERY GIZMO BREW WORKS
Gizmo represents the thinkers, tinkerers and inventors in our area. At its inception in April 2013, Gizmo Brew Works inherited a two-barrel brewhouse in Raleigh, making it one of the smallest production breweries in North Carolina at the time. In 2019, it set forth on an expansion to quadruple its brewing capacity as well as open its first satellite taproom in Chapel Hill. The shop provides a diverse selection of craft beer and cider in addition to Gizmo's year-round and specialty beer. You can find its beer in retail shops and restaurants/bars throughout North Carolina. 157 E. Franklin St., Chapel Hill; 919-636-4410; gizmobrewworks.com
12 taste — 2020
Established in 1996, TOPO is the fifth-oldest brewpub in North Carolina and the first establishment in the South to have a full-time, cask-conditioned ale program on-site. Its award-winning brews include the UNC-themed Frank Graham Porter, Bell Tower Blueberry Wheat, Kenan Lager and Old Well White. Also check out the Back Bar and event space. 100 E. Franklin St., Chapel Hill; 919-929-8676; thetopofthehill.com
2020
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Drinks All Around
CAROLINA BREWERY
Boasting the slogan “First in Flavor,” the Triangle's oldest brewpub has brewed beer since 1995 and expanded its distribution across North Carolina and two other states. Its Copperline Amber Ale recently won Best of Show at the 2020 NC Brewers Cup, adding to its list of national award-winning beers, which includes the year-round offerings of Sky Blue Kolsch, Oatmeal Porter and Flagship IPA. Scratch-made kitchen specials include North Carolina-focused foods like local burgers and house-smoked barbecue, perfect to enjoy on its patio. 460 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill; 919-942-1800; carolinabrewery.com/chapel-hill-brewery
TOP OF THE HILL ORGANIC DISTILLERY DINGO DOG BREWING COMPANY
This nano brewery operates on PlowGirl Farm, outside of Carrboro. Founded as a nonprofit brewing concern, it produces beverages using produce grown on-site in a zero-waste production facility and uses profits to fund grants for no-kill animal rescue organizations in North Carolina. With no physical location open to the public, try its brews on tap at Beer Study or The Baxter Bar & Arcade. dingodogbrewing.com
The first organic distillery in the deep South, producing award-winning vodka, gin, whiskeys and rum from scratch. 505 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill; 919-699-8703; topodistillery.com
VECINO BREWING CO.
Located next door to the legendary Cat’s Cradle concert venue, Vecino offers unique menu items and local brew options in the heart of Carrboro, with both indoor seating and patio service. Through its Brewing Neighbors program, Vecino regularly partners with local organizations looking to raise awareness and improve the quality of life in the community. 300 E. Main St., Ste. C, Carrboro; 919-537-9591; vecinobrewing.com
STEEL STRING BREWERY
Inspired by the agricultural bounty of the North Carolina Piedmont and the funky, free-spirited vibes of Carrboro, Steel String offers eclectic brews like the No Quarter Coffee Stout and Atlantic Beach Pie Gose. 106A S. Greensboro St., Carrboro; 919-240-7215; steelstringbrewery.com
14 taste — 2020
CRAFTBORO BREWING DEPOT
This bottle shop and brewery opened at the South Green development in October 2019 with 10 taps of craft beer, including Damascus Steel Stout, Vitruvius IPA and Water Color Wheat. 101 Two Hills Dr., Unit 180, Carrboro; 919-240-4400; craftborobrewing.com
Drinks All Around
Chatham County STARRLIGHT MEAD
The largest meadery in North Carolina is located at the Chatham Beverage District. These makers of honey wine produce award-winning meads, from fruit-infused choices like spiced apple and blackberry, to special reserve wines like chocolate orange. Tours offered Saturdays and Sundays. 130 Lorax Ln., Pittsboro; 919-533-6314; starrlightmead.com
BMC BREWING
More than 30 years in the making, the area’s newest brewery opens in January 2021. The Rice family, who owns the brewery, formerly worked as scientists in fields ranging from drug discovery and cell biology to biochemistry and agriculture while also dabbling in homebrewing on the side. Expect a line of beers inspired by their research, like Mendel’s Yellow Pea Kolsch, named after the founder of modern genetics, or Hopper’s German Wheat, named after female computer scientist Grace Hopper, one of the first woman admirals in the U.S. Navy. 213 Lorax Ln., Pittsboro; bmcbrewing.com
CAROLINA BREWERY
Chapel Hill’s award-winning brewery opened this second location in August 2007. In addition to housing brewing operations and the restaurant, the 9,000-square-foot facility features an outdoor patio, private dining for parties, rehearsal dinners and events, as well as a conference room for meetings. Unique to the Pittsboro location is The Hopshop, an adjacent quick-serve spot selling Counter Culture coffee, breakfast, lunch, Carolina Brewery beer and merchandise to go. 120 Lowes Dr., Pittsboro; 919-545-2330; carolinabrewery.com/pittsboro-brewery
CHATHAM CIDER WORKS
This Pittsboro cidery uses North Carolina apples, pears and other fruits and works with local growers to make its Highway 64, Backyard Blend and First Flight ciders. Find these varieties and more in bottles and kegs throughout the Triangle and in the Fair Game tasting room or schedule a tour at the cidery itself. 192 Lorax Ln., Pittsboro; chathamciderworks.com
FAIR GAME BEVERAGE CO.
Fair Game specializes in small-batch rums, brandies, pepper vodka and seasonal cordials. The tasting room also offers a selection of North Carolina wines and beers on tap as well as a full pantry of locally made products. Fair Game’s cocktails and spirits are available on-site. Bottles are at ABC stores. 220 Lorax Ln., Pittsboro; 919-245-5434; fairgamebeverage.com
BEAR CREEK BREWS
Discover this nano brewery off the beaten path, which boasts a Honey Pale Ale and Chief Lager as well as European-style brews like an Alt Bier and Red Irish Style Ale. Check out its brew-your-own program and pick up some of its beers from The Modern Life Deli & Drinks or The Oasis Fresh Market & Deli. 5429 N.C. Hwy. 87 N., Pittsboro; 919-302-6859; bearcreekbrews.com
16 taste — 2020
THIRSTY SKULL BREWING
Established in 2018, the brewery offers IPAs, stouts and lagers – all brewed in Chatham County. Try a draft pour at many locations throughout North Carolina, including 580 Craft Beer, The City Tap and ODDCO in Pittsboro. The brewery is slated to open a physical location in spring 2021 near downtown Siler City. thirstyskull.com
MAKE A STIR Culinary experiences, shops, markets and more COMPILED BY NAOMI WRIGHT AND HANNAH LEE
BULLDEGA URBAN MARKET Styled after big-city bodegas, Bulldega offers the convenience of a grocery store with unique local items and the products of a farmers market. With its recent relocation to the first floor of One City Center, Bulldega added a salad bar, expanded its selection of grab-and-go items and creates fresh dinners daily. Pictured left is Receiving Supervisor Josh Nicholson and owner Yvette West. 129 W. Parrish St., Durham; 919-294-9715; bulldega.com
BUZZ CAFE AT CHATHAM MARKETPLACE
As you wander the aisles of Pittsboro’s co-op grocery store, stop by the cafe in the back, which offers unique dishes with ingredients sourced from the market’s fresh and local offerings. 480 Hillsboro St., Pittsboro; 919-542-2643; chathammarketplace.coop PHOTO BY BETH MANN
MARKETS, FOOD TOURS & MORE ... BLUE DOGWOOD PUBLIC MARKET
Located just off Franklin Street, this indoor market features both permanent food vendors and other rotating pop-up food and drink vendors. 306 W. Franklin St., Ste. G, Chapel Hill; 919-717-0404; bluedogwood.com
BULL CITY LAUGHS
Humor and history come together for this openair bus tour and stand-up comedy experience. Riders can grab a beer at Beer Durham beforehand, and the bus makes 15-minute pit stops at LouElla, Durty Bull Brewing Company and Hi-Wire Brewing to resupply your drinks. 919-449-5237; bullcitylaughs.com
18 taste — 2020
CARRBORO COFFEE ROASTERS
In addition to supporting cafes, restaurants and businesses in North Carolina and beyond with its Farmer Direct Relationship coffee, the roastery also sells unique blends, as well as brewing equipment and swag, all of which can be mailed straight to your door. Coffee subscriptions are also available. 101 S. Greensboro St., Carrboro; 919-968-4760; shopcarrborocoffee.com
C’EST SI BON! COOKING SCHOOL
More than just a cooking school, C'est si Bon! offers date night pop-ups, kid-chef programs and culinary travel for adults and teens (check availability), as well as corporate team building and “Peas in a Pod” (small group cooking). 1002 Brace Ln., Chapel Hill; 919-302-5715; cestsibon.net
CHATHAM BEVERAGE DISTRICT
Stroll under strings of bistro lights among the tasting rooms of three Chatham-based, smallbatch producers on the refurbished grounds of a former industrial plant. Try the Flying Pepper Vodka and Apple Brandy at Fair Game Beverage Co., a Highway 64 barrel-aged hard cider at Chatham Cider Works and a Honeyed Blackberry mead at Starrlight Mead (pictured above right is co-owner Becky Starr).
PHOTO BY BETH MANN
DURHAM CO-OP MARKET
There’s also a certified naturally grown farm by Copeland Springs Farm & Kitchen. 220 Lorax Ln., Ste. 15, Pittsboro; theplantnc.com
COCO BEAN VEGAN MARKET
Tucked into the back of Coco Bean Coffee Shop & Cafe, this market includes a selection of pantry items, refrigerated and frozen foods, and hard-tofind gourmet vegan and CBD products, plus some gluten-free and allergy-friendly foods and plantbased cookbooks. As of press time, the market is unavailable for walk-in traffic, but offers an online vegan market on its website. 1114 Environ Way, Chapel Hill; 919-883-9003; cocobeanmarket.com
COUNTER CULTURE
CRAFTS & DRAFTS NC
Grab your favorite beer or wine and get crafty at this DIY bar. There are craft kits to make jewelry, cross-stitches, mini terrariums, glass etchings and more. 3117 Guess Rd., Ste. B, Durham; 919-366-7606; craftsanddraftsnc.com
DURHAM SPIRITS COMPANY
Private virtual and in-home cooking and mixology classes, like “Asian Appetizers” or “Winter in the South,” in a newly renovated historic home. 3222 Old Chapel Hill Rd., Durham; 425-463-5430; durhamspiritscompany.com
PHOTO BY DAVE SHAY PHOTOGRAPHY
Counter Culture has been dedicated to environmental, social and fiscal sustainability since its founding in 1995. It currently offers a coffee subscription service that delivers its roasted-to-order coffee to homes nationwide. The local roaster also offers subscribers a rotating selection of exclusive coffees along with free virtual coffee courses and educational programming to help them have a better at-home brewing experience. 812 Mallard Ave., Durham; 919-361-5282; counterculturecoffee.com
This independent and community-owned grocery store and cafe offers weekly meal specials like $3 dinners on Thursdays at its hot bar and deli. It also hosts weekly events like Brewsday on Tuesdays and Winesday on Wednesdays. 1111 W. Chapel Hill St., Durham; 919-973-1707; durham.coop
DURHAM FOOD HALL
This new space at Liberty Warehouse, which opened in May 2020, offers customers eight food and drink vendors to choose from, plus a flower shop, small maker retail corner and expansive bar with to-go cocktail kits. On the second story mezzanine are three intimate, private spaces to host events, weddings, dinners and more. 530 Foster St., Ste. 1, Durham; info@durhamfoodhall. com; durhamfoodhall.com
FEARRINGTON VILLAGE
Eateries include sophisticated cuisine at The Fearrington House Restaurant; wine, coffee, baked goods and sandwiches at The Belted Goat; and pizza and brews at the seasonal Roost Beer Garden. Foodies will especially love the wine classes. 2000 Fearrington Village Center, Pittsboro; 919-542-2121; fearrington.com
Culinary Experiences
INDULGE CATERING
Managed by Executive Chef Queen PreciousJewel Zabriskie and Sous Chef Jacqueline White, this company caters to events, corporate programs, weddings and more. It currently offers “Indulge Celebration Boxes,” a three-course meal with a bouquet of flowers and personalized menu cards delivered to your doorstep. Indulge also launched a live dinner party/cooking series called “Indulge @ Home,” which takes place every Sunday at 6 p.m. on Facebook and Instagram. indulge-catering.com
JOE VAN GOGH
Beginning as a single coffee house in 1991, this roastery has since opened six coffee shops from Greensboro to Raleigh. It sources fair-trade, organic coffee from seasonal regions from Africa to the Pacific Islands. Join one of its subscription services and buy some of its brew gear to experiment at home. In the wake of COVID-19, the roastery started offering contactless delivery to homes and offices around its Woodcroft location. 1104 Broad St., Ste. B, Durham, 919-286-4800; 4711 Hope Valley Rd., Ste. 5A, Durham, 919-973-3950; 1129 Weaver Dairy Rd., Chapel Hill, 919-967-2002; 505 Meadowlands Dr., Unit 101, Hillsborough, 919-644-0111; joevangogh.com
LITTLE WAVES COFFEE ROASTERS
The roastery arm of Cocoa Cinnamon, which has three retail coffee shops in Durham, Little Waves is dedicated to sustainable coffee practices, sourcing to more than 90 small and independent vendors. It offers roast-to-order coffee options for pickup or delivery and a coffee subscription service. Sign up for one of Little Waves’ livestreamed classes for beginner or experienced brewers. There are also free how-to guides on using coffee brewing equipment on its website, plus some espresso recipes to try. littlewaves.coffee
OASIS FRESH MARKET AND DELI
At the heart of downtown Siler City, Oasis features local, farm-fresh products, from produce to jams and honey; a kitchen serving daily specials; and an outdoor beer garden and event space. Open Wednesday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Catering, call ahead or eat in. Offering homemade vegan and gluten-free options, plus soups, chowders, specialty hot and cold sandwiches, subs and more. 117 S. Chatham Ave., Siler City; 919-799-7434; oasisfreshmarket.com
SEASON TO TASTE
Professional chef John Eisensmith offers classes that teach people how to cook like he was taught in culinary school, but with a focus on skills and foods you can use in your own kitchen. There is
20 taste — 2020
the essential series that is “culinary school for home cooks” and specialized classes that focus on specific skills, such as making macaroons or gnocchi. Other offerings include online classes, meal delivery and private classes. 2510 Yorkdale Ct., Durham; 919-229-9162; seasontotastenc.com
SNAP PEA UNDERGROUND & CATERING
Themed dinner events (featuring multiple creative courses) sourced from seasonal produce, which are presented in unique settings around the Triangle. The locations are kept secret until just days before the event, and tickets usually sell out within hours of its release. While these in-person offerings are not available at press time, Snap Pea is offering produce delivery from a local farm and a virtual cookalong. 919-619-3618; snappeanc.com
TASTE CAROLINA GOURMET FOOD TOURS
Go behind the scenes to chat with chefs and artisans and enjoy delicious food during these culinary walking tours hosted in Durham, Chapel Hill, Carrboro and Hillsborough, plus cities and towns across North Carolina such as Raleigh, Greensboro, Winston-Salem and Wilmington. Food boxes have become a new offering for the business, and, during the pandemic, Taste Carolina is offering food tours and walking history tours only in select cities. Their team is open to special requests as well. 919-237-2254; tastecarolina.net
TOBACCO ROAD TOURS
Offers Raleigh and Durham historic sightseeing tours, haunted ghost walks, pub crawls and comedy bus tours. It also offers free downtown Raleigh and Durham walking tours on most Saturdays and Sundays. 919-371-2653; tobaccoroadtours.com
TRIANGLE FOOD TOUR
A casual-yet-educational way to sample food from a cross section of locally owned restaurants throughout Chapel Hill, as well as Durham, Raleigh and Cary. Availability is subject to change and can be found on the website. 919-623-4873; trianglefoodtours.com
WEAVER STREET MARKET
This worker- and consumer-owned grocery store sells natural and organic food with a focus on local and fair-trade products. The original market is situated in the heart of Carrboro in Carr Mill Mall and hosts many community events like live music on the lawn. 101 E. Weaver St., Carrboro, 919-929-0010; 716 Market St., Chapel Hill, 919-929-2009; 228 S. Churton St., Hillsborough, 919-245-5050; weaverstreetmarket.coop
November 7, 2020
RES ERV E YO U R T I C KET S !
A virtual wine and food experience. Select an at-home wine and food experience for contactless pickup on Nov. 7 at Johnson Lexus of Durham! Each of the four meal theme options include dishes prepared by some of the best chefs in the Triangle and a handpicked wine flight. A portion of Sip + Savor’s profits will be donated to Carolina Theatre of Durham. A DURHAM MAGAZINE EVENT
Your adventure includes 5 dishes for two + 4 split bottles of wine cooler bag and swag + a unique coffee
thank you to our sponsors
plus Chef tells all video & virtual wine class by Ryan Vet, Sommelier at The Oak House
Learn more at
sipandsavornc.com
Your virtual culinary adventure begins here.
A DURHAM MAGAZINE EVENT
Choose your own wine and food adventure! Each tour includes a Johnson Lexus cooler with 4 sharable entrees paired with 4 half bottle wine pairings and one dessert with a unique coffee pairing. Pick up November 7 at Johnson Lexus of Durham from noon – 3 p.m. and enjoy a date night at home with a quick video from the chefs and sommelier.
Sip + Savor gives back. Carolina Theatre of Durham serves over 18,000 school chidren and families through education programs - Arts Discovery Educational Series and Family Saturday Series. These programs are curated for high-quality performances and provided free or low-costs (and now virtually) designed for all ages and backgrounds. Sip + Savor also supports many small, diverse and local businesses including 25 local restaurants and beverage shops.
Tickets on sale now at sipandsavornc.com
Choose your own wine and food adventure The World Tour From spicy Asian cuisine to the earthy tones of African fare, this flight is composed of exquisite wines that can stand-up to the seasoning of international dishes. With each wine coming from a different country, you’ll feel like a world traveler as you explore delectable foods and indulge on delightful wine.
Featured restaurants Boricua Soul + Zweli’s Kitchen + Carrboro Coffee Roasters La Farm + The Oak House of Durham + MOFU Shoppe
The Roots Tour Taste the world with our vegetarian food and wine flight. This special wine-pairing offers all-natural yeasts and biodynamic practices. Sip on four all-natural or vegan wines from wine-makers that practice minimal intervention. Each of these wines pairs perfectly with vegan and vegetarian dishes.
Featured restaurants Harvest 18 + Glasshalfull + Carrboro Coffee Roasters La Farm + The Oak House of Durham + Vimala’s Curryblossom Café
The Latin Tour The Triangle area is full of exquisite Latin flavors. Don’t miss our Latin food and wine experience. South America’s diverse terrain allows for a plethora of delicious wines to be produced. This flight will pair beautifully with Latin, Spanish and South American cuisine.
Featured restaurants Acme Food & Beverage Co. + Carrboro Coffee Roasters + La Farm Luna’s Rotisserie + The Oak House of Durham + Tsuru Sweets
The European Tour Pack your bags, because this wine and food pairing is taking you to Europe! While France may be the epicenter of modern winemaking, vitners from all corners of Europe have evolved their own traditional styles of wine with old and new world grapes. Take a romantic adventure through wine and food country.
Featured restaurants Beau Catering + Carolina Crossroads (Carolina Inn) + Kitchen Carrboro Coffee Roasters + The Oak House of Durham + La Farm Deli Edison + Hillsborough Cheese Company + Chapel Hill Creamery
Don’t forget to visit sipandsavornc.com often as we continue to add new restaurants to the list each week! * Restaurants subject to change without notice.
Culinary Experiences
FARMERS MARKETS
Dates are subject to change; check with organizers prior to attending
ORANGE COUNTY CARRBORO FARMERS MARKET
301 W. Main St. (Carrboro Town Commons), Carrboro; Saturdays, 7 a.m.-noon (April-October), 9 a.m.-noon (November-March); Wednesdays, 3-6 p.m. (April-October); carrborofarmersmarket.com
CHAPEL HILL FARMERS MARKET
University Place, 201 S. Estes Dr., Chapel Hill; Saturdays, 8 a.m.-noon (April-Nov.), 9 a.m.-noon (Dec.-March); Tuesdays, 3-6 p.m. (April-Nov.); 919-533-9496; thechapelhillfarmersmarket.com
ENO RIVER FARMERS MARKET
144 E. Margaret Ln., Hillsborough; Saturdays, 8 a.m.-noon (April-Nov.), 10 a.m.-noon (Dec.-March); enoriverfarmersmarket.com
HILLSBOROUGH FARMERS MARKET
430 Waterstone Dr., UNC Hospitals, Hillsborough Campus; Saturdays, 8 a.m.noon (April-Oct.), 10 a.m.-noon (Nov.-March); hillsboroughfarmersmarket.org
DURHAM FARMERS MARKET
Durham Central Park, 501 Foster St., Durham; Main season market: Saturdays, 8 a.m.-noon (MayNovember); winter market: Saturdays, 10 a.m.-noon (December-March); Thanksgiving market: 3-5 p.m. (Nov. 24); mid-week market currently closed; 919-667-3099; durhamfarmersmarket.com; info@durhamfarmersmarket.com
DURHAM ROOTS FARMERS MARKET
Online or at participating vendors’ farms Saturdays, 9 a.m.-12:30 p.m. (April-November); 919-451-6688; durhamroots.org; durhamrootsfm@gmail.com
SOUTH DURHAM FARMERS MARKET
Greenwood Commons Shopping Center, 5410 N.C. 55, Durham Saturdays, 8 a.m.-11 a.m. (April-October), 9 a.m.-noon (November-March); 984-219-3844; southdurhamfarmersmarket.org
A FEW OF OUR FAVORITE FARMS 1870 FARM
CHATHAM COUNTY
An educational farm offering classes, a summer camp, birthday parties, fishing and farm tours, as well as the Farmstand, which sells fresh eggs and seasonal produce. 1224 Old Lystra Rd., Chapel Hill; 1870farm.com
CHATHAM MILLS FARMERS MARKET
CEDAR GROVE BLUEBERRY FARM
FEARRINGTON FARMERS MARKET
CELEBRITY DAIRY
480 Hillsboro St., Pittsboro; Saturdays, 8 a.m.noon (April-Oct.), 10 a.m.-1 p.m. (Nov.-Jan.); chathammillsfarmersmarket.com Fearrington Village; Tuesdays, 4-6 p.m. (April 7-Nov. 24); fearringtonfarmersmarket.com
PITTSBORO FARMERS MARKET
Main Street Station, 287 East St., Pittsboro; Thursdays, 3-6 p.m. (year-round); pittsborofarmersmarket.org
PHOTO BY HANNAH LEE
DURHAM COUNTY BLACK FARMERS
MARKET
The Tower at Mutual Plaza, 411 W. Chapel Hill St., Durham; Every second Sunday (beginning May/ June through the end of November), 1-4 p.m.; blackaugustinthepark.com/ black-farmers-market; blackmarketnc@gmail.com
Pick fresh, organic blueberries, fish in the pond and enjoy a picnic. 105 Persimmon Hill Ln., Cedar Grove; cedargroveblueberry.com A 300-acre farm with a bed-and-breakfast, birdwatching walking trails and the “Goat Hilton,” which houses the farm’s goats. Sample and take home some goat cheese. 144 Celebrity Dairy Way, Siler City; celebritydairy.com
ELODIE FARMS
The cull-free goat dairy farm offers cheeses, whey crackers and goat milk confections for pickup or delivery. Monthly farm dinners include a tour and five-course, locally sourced menu prepared on-site by chef/owner Ted Domville. Also open for private farm tours and special events. 9522 Hampton Rd., Rougemont; elodiefarms.com
ENO RIVER FARM
The area's newest farm opened in March 2020. A family-friendly farm that specializes in berries and tulips and has delicious homemade ice cream to enjoy there or to take home. 2127 St. Marys Rd., Hillsborough; enoriverfarm.com
Culinary Experiences
FEATHER VILLAGE FARM
M&M ALPACA FARM
OF NORTH CAROLINA
The 10-acre, family-run farm specializes in growing fresh fruit and herbs, and as the name suggests, is also a popular bird hangout. 1433 Major Hill Rd., Snow Camp; feathervillagefarm.com
PHOTO BY ANDREA ANDERSON
HANDEWA FARMS
Learn about alpacas on a farm tour, take classes in the studio and shop a wide range of products, from socks and gloves to scarves and rugs. 7084 U.S. Hwy. 64, Pittsboro; mmalpacafarmofnc.openherd.com
MAPLE VIEW AGRICULTURAL EDUCATIONAL CENTER
This woman- and indigenousled farming collective seeks to provide organic, healthy food to all. Many of its members have indigenous ancestry, including the OccaneechiSaponi, Cherokee, Blackfoot and Lakota tribes. The collective's ultimate goal is for future generations to connect with the Earth and its natural medicine. handewafarms.com
Learn about sustainable agriculture through interactive classes on topics such as the milking process, soil composition, water filtration, insect anatomy and more. Also offers hayrides and guided barnyard tours. 3501 Dairyland Rd., Hillsborough; mapleviewagcenter.com
HERNDON HILLS FARM
PERKINS ORCHARD
Pick your own blueberries, blackberries and muscadine grapes fresh from the vine. 7110 Massey Chapel Rd., Durham; herndonhillsfarm.com
THE HUB FARM
A 30-acre farm, forest and outdoor aquatic learning center that features hands-on kids' activities, workshops and tours. 117 Milton Rd., Durham; thehubfarm.org
HUX FAMILY FARM
Relax with goat yoga and meditation classes, enroll your children in goat reading therapy and bond with the horses through horsemanship lessons at the 4-acre farm. 1923 Shaw Rd., Durham; huxfamilyfarm.com
Durham’s largest and oldest fruit stand boasts a vast selection of seasonal produce and dairy products for sale, in addition to Christmas trees, fruit sorbet and fruit popsicles. 5749 Barbee Rd., Durham; perkinsorchard.com
PRODIGAL FARM
Meet the goats, learn about the cheese-making process and sample products through open house days and goat festivals. Field trips and group tours are available. 4720 Bahama Rd., Rougemont; prodigalfarm.com
OLD MILL FARM
This 60-acre private lavender farm and shop is a few miles west from downtown Chapel Hill. Voted one of the 2020 Best Event Spaces by readers of Chapel Hill Magazine, it also offers historic barns for culinary lavender events, tours, weddings and private events. 3833 Millard Whitley Rd., Chapel Hill; lavenderoaks.farm
This historical farm offers a chance for parents and their little ones to learn and spend time together. The My Little Farmer program holds farm-education classes – which cover themes including riding, art and music – every day of the week. Young children have a chance to meet with pigs, donkeys, chickens, a goat and a very talkative turkey. There’s also a Kids Vet Club on the other side of the property that allows older children to learn about veterinary medicine. 8913 N.C. Hwy. 751 S., Durham; 919-444-8850; oldmillfarmdurham.com
LILLY DEN FARM
SEEDS
LAVENDER OAKS FARM
This supplier of local restaurants offers Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) shares that feature meats, dairy and eggs as well as sustainable produce during the summer months. The family farm also offers summer camps and cow shares. 5260 Goldston Glendon Rd., Goldston; lillydenfarm.com
The 2-acre urban garden and kitchen classroom, located in the heart of Durham, educates young people on environmental stewardship, teamwork and community through an after-school program, middle-school internship, young adult farm program and other volunteer opportunities. 706 Gilbert St., Durham; 919-683-1197; seedsnc.org
2020 — taste 25
DESIGN BUILD REMODEL
SERVING DURHAM, CHAPEL HILL, RALEIGH, MORRISVILLE AND CHATHAM
WHY CHOOSE CQC? COLLABORATION: Whether it is using industry-leading project management tools or inviting you into our showroom, we work as a team, so you’ll love coming home.
2020
CQCHOME.COM 919 971 5119
Culinary Experiences
SMITH’S FAMILY FUN FARM
Pick pumpkins from the vine and shop for Christmas trees. Activities vary depending on the season and state of the pandemic. 1715 St. Marys Rd., Hillsborough; 919-619-2145
STROUDS CREEK FARM
HILLSBOROUGH WINE COMPANY
Located in downtown Hillsborough, this sister store of Chapel Hill Wine Company features a diverse selection from all over the world. 118 S. Churton St., Hillsborough; 919-732-4343; chapelhillwinecompany.com
Explore the creek, play with the animals, and learn how to ride a horse. Also offers a summer camp, after-school child care, birthday parties and horse boarding. 1600 Friendship Ln., Hillsborough; stroudscreekfarm.com
HOPE VALLEY WINE & BEVERAGE
WALLER FAMILY FARM
LOUELLA WINE, BEER + BEVERAGE
Pick fresh strawberries and visit the farm animals. Vegetables and flowers are also available for purchase. 5030 Kerley Rd., Durham; wallerfamilyfarm.com
WOODCREST FARM AND FORGE
Tour the family farm, shop for fresh meat and produce, take classes in blacksmithing and more. 5604 Dairyland Rd., Hillsborough; woodcrestfarmnc.com
FOR WINE LOVERS CHAPEL HILL WINE COMPANY
Chapel Hill’s oldest independent wine retailer offers thousands of choices, including rare and allocated bottles from around the world. 2809 Homestead Rd., Chapel Hill; 919-968-1884; chapelhillwinecompany.com
FIRECLAY CELLARS
Named after the red soil of Chatham County, the vineyard and winery grows its own grapes and produces award-winning wines. Along with their red blend and chambourcin, it features some new wines, such as a rosé, a chardonel and a red reserve. The winery has spacious indoor seating for wine tastings, as well as a deck and front porch for sipping. Open Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 6 p.m. 1276 Bowers Store Rd., Siler City; 919-663-2599; fireclaycellars.com
GLASSHALFULL
The attached wine shop has expanded into a small market, the Glasshalfull Mercantile, stocking exceptional wines, prepared meals, pantry items and more. Order online for curbside pickup or shop with social distancing safety measures. 106 S. Greensboro St., Carrboro; 919-967-9784; glasshalfull.net
28 taste — 2020
A community-driven neighborhood wine, beer and mixology store. 4711 Hope Valley Rd., Ste. 4E, Durham; 919-403-5200; hopevalleywineandbeverage.com A bottle shop, bar and event space offering curated wine, craft beer and other fortified selections from family-operated producers for curbside pickup or delivery. 316 W. Geer St., Ste. A, Durham; 919-973-2001; durham.wine
TOTAL WINE
Order wine and beer for in-store pickup or sameday delivery. Wine samplings offered Thursdays, 2–6 p.m., Fridays, 2–8 p.m. and Saturdays noon–6 p.m. 3615 Witherspoon Blvd., Durham; 919-489-5082; totalwine.com
VINO!! WINE SHOP
Located on the second floor of a historic downtown Pittsboro shop, Vino!! features a selection of wines from all over the globe as well as cigars. In-store wine tastings are suspended as of press time, but Vino!! sells by the glass every day the shop is open. Vino!! also hosts virtual wine tastings as well as curated dinners in-shop and at local restaurants. 89 Hillsboro St., Pittsboro; 919542-3922; vinowineshopnc.com
WINE AUTHORITIES
Twenty-first century wine shop with a friendly staff focused on small, family-owned estate wineries. Limited selection of fewer than 500 wines, all less than $50. Open seven days a week. 2501 University Dr., Durham; 919-489-2884; wineauthorities.com
THE WINE CELLAR
South Durham wine shop in Sutton Station offering wine specials, a calendar of events and more. 5850 Fayetteville Rd., Durham; 919-806-3111; winecellarnc.com
THE WINE FEED
Wine store and wine bar offering flights, small plates and more. 307 S. Roxboro St., Durham; 919-748-4115; thewinefeed.com
Discover your Sanctuary
Designed for Modern Living 1, 2, and 3 bedroom open concept floor plans with kitchen islands, granite countertops and subway tile backsplashes
Apartment Living Your Style
NOW LEASING! Please Call to Learn More
Resort-style swimming pool with pool house and grilling pavillion State-of-the-art exercise facility with 24 hour access Pet friendly with a dog park for furry friends
We Offer Touchless, Virtual and In-Person Tours
919.542.0192 sanctuarypowellplace.com 145 Retreat Lane | Pittsboro, NC
Prime location allows quick and easy access to Chapel Hill, Raleigh and the entire Triangle area First community in the area to offer 1 Gig high speed fiber internet
Located off Millbrook Rd in Powell Place
Just steps away from an abundance of great dining and shopping experiences
30 taste — 2020
PHOTO BY BETH MANN
FOR GOODNESS BAKES
Pastries started as passion but became serious business for this restaurateur
BY LANEY DALTON
A
s a child growing up in Heilbronn, Germany, Claudia Cooper always cherished Thursdays. That was the day her beloved grandmother, Lotte, took her and her friends to Rheinhard, a small, family-run coffee shop in the heart of the small city. As early as age 5, she would stand in front of the large display case and point out her favorite pastry, often a shortcrust, nougat-filled dessert, dipped in chocolate and sprinkled with nuts. “It was the highlight of my week,” Claudia says. She spent most of her afternoons with her grandmother, a cook and baker herself, while her mother worked. Claudia initially came to the United States in the 10th grade when her mother transferred to Washington, D.C., for work. There, she attended the German International School Washington D.C., but returned to Germany after graduating from college, where she took on a role as a process engineer at Hewlett-Packard. She quickly realized a corporate desk job was not the best fit. She resigned and pursued a future resonating with her roots: formal training in baking as an apprentice at Rischart’s Backhaus in Munich. After completing her apprenticeship in 1997, Claudia returned to the States and immediately made a list of about six ideal cities to open a German-inspired bakery. She believed bringing good bread to the U.S. was an important gap to fill. She narrowed her search down to a spot in the Triangle, but struggled to find a large production space in a convenient location. She says she frequently visited Foster’s Market in Durham, which is how she found a location on DurhamChapel Hill Boulevard.
Guglhupf Bakery opened in 1998 and has since added a cafe and bar. The bread department, consisting of six bakers, and the pastry team, consisting of 12, focus on creating award-winning German and French classics from scratch – breads, rolls, cakes and pastries. It’s a carb lover’s paradise. Nearly 20 years later, Claudia opened Guglhupf Bake Shop in the Eastgate Shopping Center in Chapel Hill, a retail bake shop with a full espresso bar that’s restocked multiple times a day with fresh baked goods from the Durham commissary bakery. At the original Guglhupf location, Claudia incorporates local and seasonal ingredients into a menu with a contemporary southwestern German twist. Brunch and coffee are offered during the day, and the scene transforms into a biergarten by night. Dinner focuses on the concept of Brotzeit, a traditional German dining style offering charcuterie, cheeses, smoked and marinated fish, breads and savory spreads. Like most businesses, Guglhupf was forced to adjust its operations at the start of the COVID-19 pandemic. “At the beginning, our world was turned upside down,” Claudia says. Fewer people visited the bakery. And the bread that Claudia once thought essential was suddenly not anymore. When the cafe reopened for dine-in on June 1, it meant more changes. Guglhupf’s outdoor patio was expanded into the parking lot to double the seating for the biergarten. Claudia ensured that customers and employees stayed separated by allowing for orders to be placed conveniently at the bar window. Although the bakery is not quite back to normal, the business has received a tremendous amount of support from the public, who have purchased gift certificates and ordered curbside pickup. “It's interesting how times of crisis [can] also pull a community together, and that's always good to see,” Claudia says. Guglhupf joined Durham FEAST, a program that provided meals and shelf-stable ingredients to local children and their families experiencing food insecurity, and baked breakfast items for the program. It was also involved with the Ronald McDonald House of Durham & Wake and Feed the Fight, the latter of which provided meals for front-line workers. The business donates most of its leftover baked goods to the Durham Rescue Mission, too. “It was amazing how organizations were founded literally overnight to take on the challenges that were a direct result of the pandemic for the most vulnerable in the community,” Claudia says. “[It’s] very humbling when people put their heads together to solve problems.”
2020 — taste 31
Global Influence
SLICE OF LIFE
Catching up with brothers Angelo Marrone and Vincenzo Marrone of Italian Pizzeria III as their West Franklin Street restaurant celebrates 40 years
BY JESSICA STRINGER
G PHOTOGRAPHY BY BETH MANN
Angelo Marrone and Vincenzo “Vinny” Marrone have run the pizzeria for the past 20 of its 40 years.
32 taste — 2020
rowing up in Monte di Procida, just outside of Naples, brothers Angelo Marrone and Vincenzo Marrone ate just about any type of pasta their mom or grandmother put in front of them. “I love lasagna,” Angelo says. “Meatballs are another favorite. The recipes they made were the best things you’ve ever had.” Vinny says he actually learned how to cook dishes like linguini with lobster and risotto alla pescatore while working at Villa Chiara, his brother-in-law's restaurant. But hungry for more opportunities, they left Italy for the United States in the 1990s. “Angelo moved here in ’96, and I moved here in ’97,” Vinny says. Watching a ton of TV helped Angelo pick up English, and he admits his diet changed a little. “I ate so many hot dogs, so many hamburgers,” he laughs. Angelo and Vinny started working at the Chapel Hill-based Italian Pizzeria III under Cipriano Illiano, the original owner, a man they call their uncle. They bought the business in 2000 and, eventually, the entire building at 508 W. Franklin St. Angelo and Vinny made some significant additions to the menu when they took over. “I remember the menu first had maybe 10 pizzas,” Vinny says. “Now we have 30. Pasta wise, we were only doing baked ziti, lasagna, manicotti, ravioli, chicken Parm and veal Parm. But then we upgraded with more dishes like chicken alfredo and spaghetti pescati.” In an ode to their home country, they’ve hung up soccer (or rather, futbol) memorabilia from
Global Influence Italy, and the restaurant’s TVs are always tuned to the sport. Vinny says that early on they ran a big promotion to draw in fans for one of the big European soccer tournaments. “A lot of people started coming in, realizing this place was fun for watching soccer games,” Vinny says. When customers enter, they’re greeted with the shout of a “hello” and sometimes even their name. They’ve now run the pizzeria for the past 20 of its 40 years, so they can spot the regulars and make everyone feel at home. “We know exactly the people who walk in here,” Angelo says. “Sometimes we can forget a name, I’ll be honest, but we work at the names.” When the brothers aren’t tossing dough or taking orders, they often find themselves on the receiving end of warm greetings as they go about their days outside the restaurant. They get recognized all over town, but also when they travel. “Last year I was at the Biltmore in Asheville, North Carolina, with my wife and my mother-inlaw,” Angelo recalls. He says he was just taking in the view from the grand estate when someone spotted him. “Somebody from down below yelled, ‘I-P-3!’” he says, only slightly embarrassed. “That’s just the way people love us.” Angelo and Vinny have also left their mark through their generosity, whether that’s in sponsoring the PORCH Chapel Hill-Carrboro Food for Schools program or donating a portion of a night’s sales to UNC Children’s Hospital. “If a school calls asking to do a night where a [percentage of sales] will go to the school, we will always be like, ‘Sure, no problem,’” Vinny says. “They can count on us, especially when it comes to the community or helping somebody.” Vinny and Angelo say they want to support the town that has meant so much to them. “For me, Chapel Hill is my home,” Angelo says. “Chapel Hill gives us a lot, but we give back a lot, too.” IP3 recently underwent a renovation, though, naturally, the brothers kept the familiar red booths. “We want people to feel that, when they come back for a visit, nothing’s changed,” Vinny says. “I had a customer come in recently and say, ‘Oh, my God. I used to go to school at UNC back in 1990, and this place looks the same.’ It’s nice when they get that feeling.” It’s the culinary equivalent of your parents leaving your childhood room intact – if that room was plastered with autographed photos of Angelo and Vinny posing with UNC athletes. IP3 is a well-known hangout for hungry student-athletes looking for a meal after practice. They find supportive fans in Vinny and Angelo, and eventually, an extended family. IP3 has donated pizza to
local camps put on by former players, including Marcus Ginyard, who holds a free annual clinic for kids in Orange County. “This is iconic Chapel Hill, and it’s also great they share our vision of what we’re trying to do with these kids,” Marcus told us when we interviewed him during his 2019 Chapel Hill Community Day. “They’re giving pizza, because that’s what they do, but it means a lot more.” One menu item at the pizzeria even bears his name: the “Ginyard Penne.” Other athletes often make a point to visit IP3 when they are back in Chapel Hill. Angelo shares that when former UNC basketball player Harrison Barnes returned to the pizzeria, he had the NBA Championship Trophy from his 2015 NBA Finals win with the Golden State Warriors in tow. “These guys don’t forget us,” Angelo says. Of course, there are the occasional sibling squabbles, Vinny admits, but says that he’s really come to appreciate his brother. “Even when you’re on vacation, you know the place is in good hands with somebody who you can trust,” Vinny says. Angelo echoes the sentiment: “Sometimes we look at each other and say, ‘We gotta be proud.’”
2020 — taste 33
SOMETHING NEW
Discover traditional Zimbabwean dishes at a spot halfway between Durham and Chapel Hill
BY JAMES HATFIELD
Leonardo and Zweli Williams.
34 taste — 2020
PHOTO BY TAIYANNA YATES
Z
welibanzi “Zweli” Williams is driven to "show the community Zimbabwean culture through the means of food.” Even as a young child raised in a war-torn country, the dishes of her upbringing fed her passion, leading her to move to the United States in 1999. She enrolled into the hospitality and tourism program at North Carolina Central University and met her future business partner and husband, Leonardo Williams, as a first-year student. After they graduated in 2005, Leonardo and Zweli remained friends but parted ways before reconnecting and then pursuing the same dream, opening Zweli’s Kitchen & Catering in August 2017. The menu – inspired by the foods of Zweli’s childhood in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe – includes ingredients like piri-piri chili pepper, a unique and hot pepper cultivated across Africa. Every bite conjures early memories of growing the long, red vegetable in her family’s backyard – and now the couple grow it in their own garden. Once the catering business took off, the couple opened their brick-and-mortar at 4600 DurhamChapel Hill Blvd. the following July. "When we first thought of the concept, we thought it was important to follow my roots," Zweli says, "because this is who I am. This is what I grew up eating. I’ll remember how something tastes, but don’t really remember making it, [and] I go back and ask my mom how [she] used to make it."
PHOTO BY BETH MANN
Global Influence
As for location, the decision was easy, as there was really no better place to open up shop than where they first met. "We are specifically a Zimbabwean and Southern African [restaurant] – so you’re not going to find anything like us anywhere [else around here],” Leonardo says. “Durham is a place where that’s perfectly OK." He admits that Zimbabwean cuisine might not be the first option that comes to mind when choosing where to dine out. But there’s an allure to trying something new and visiting the only place that offers it. "We have a lot of people who look at our menu online or they’ll be like, 'I’ve never tried this before,' but then they give it a chance," Zweli says. "And through that, not only are they experiencing different food that they never thought they would try, they are also learning the culture as well. They start embracing it even more. They want to know our story." “Durham embraces and appreciates diversity and inclusion,” Leonardo adds. “What I’m most proud of ... is the fact that we can add to that fabric of diversity and inclusion through what
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really perpetuates a positive community – and that’s through food. Food is what brings people together. We’re playing a vital role in that." It's hard to imagine any restaurant thriving during COVID-19. The restaurant is the couple’s pride and joy, but Zweli's original catering services still finance the bulk of the business. So when more than 50 catering orders were canceled in a matter of days, the couple says panicked didn’t go far enough to describe their situation. "Watching the global pandemic starting to really rise up in America, we watched the phone ring nonstop,” Leonardo says. “We saw everything melting and automatically went into survival mode, and that’s what we’re still in right now. "Survival mode for us is ensuring that our restaurant is accessible [to customers] in every form. So you can text your order, order via social media, [and we’re also] doing bulk neighborhood orders." Leonardo and Zweli vow to persevere no matter the circumstances, just as they have in their history together. If neither time apart nor distance could stop them from acheiving their dreams, then what possibly could?
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SALAD DAYS
Robert and Fida Ghanem thrive alongside their decades-old businesses, Saladelia and The Mad Hatter’s Cafe & Bakeshop
BY MATT DEES
T
hirty-plus years building a restaurant business takes more than hard work and good luck. Just ask the Ghanems. In 1988, Robert, a native of Lebanon, launched Saladelia Cafe on University Drive. But the business really took off when he met his wife, Fida, who’s also from Lebanon, a few years later and coaxed her into joining the business. That’s when, Robert says, “things went on high speed.” Theirs is a story of love and hard work, of family and deep roots, of world travel and making a home in a new land. It can be presented in three short acts:
PHOTOGRAPHY BY BETH MANN
Fida and Robert Ghanem.
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THEY MEET Robert came to the U.S. in the 1980s to attend college at N.C. State; a few years later, Fida came over to attend Georgia State University. They met on vacation in Cyprus in 1990 and exchanged phone numbers. Then he returned to Durham to run his restaurant, and she went back to her sales job with Panasonic in Atlanta. He lost her number and, as Fida points out, “Lebanese girls don’t call.” A year passed, and Robert was in Beirut at an office building. He overheard Fida’s last name and made an inquiry. It turned out her sister worked there, and he got Fida’s number from her. A whirlwind courtship culminated when he surprised her with a proposal on an airplane, where she was about to embark on a trip to Paris. They changed their itinerary to head home to Lebanon, to get their parents’ blessing. For Robert and Fida, family has always been paramount. THEY GROW After their 1992 wedding at Treyburn, Fida needed a little convincing to join Robert in the restaurant business. That came in the form of her own Saladelia in Chapel Hill, located near the intersection of Franklin and Columbia streets
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2020 — taste 39
Global Influence
where Kurama is now. It opened in 1994 but didn’t quite work out, and the Ghanems sold the storefront and refocused their efforts in Durham in 1996. By then, the Saladelia at University Drive was thriving, and Robert and Fida worked hard both to keep that trend going and to expand the catering business. Their success up to this point was remarkable in itself. When Robert opened Saladelia in 1988, most of Durham wasn’t familiar with Mediterranean cuisine. When a customer saw the word “hummus,” he asked, “Isn’t that potting soil?” Robert built the business with food that could be described with the same buzzwords that are now ubiquitous on menus all over town. “Fresh, from-scratch, organic, sustainable, local,” Robert says. “The food we have here has a lot of appeal nowadays.” “We don’t serve anything we wouldn’t serve our family,” Fida adds. Speaking of which, the Ghanems deftly juggled the demands of family and business ownership. Daughter Nora came along in 1996, then son Tad followed in 1998. It wasn’t always easy. “Something has to give,” Fida says. “You sleep less, you run more and somehow, by the grace of God, you manage.” THEY FLOURISH Fida’s business background came in handy as the couple expanded their reach throughout Durham and, importantly, on the Duke campus. The University Drive location became a popular spot for Duke denizens, including the Krzyzewski family. But Saladelia's first permanent spot on campus came in rather humble form. Students asked Aramark, the mega-company that ran Duke dining, if it would put Saladelia’s tabouli and hummus on the salad bar. A deal was struck, and Saladelia products made it on campus, albeit unbilled. But that led, in 2006, to Saladelia getting a contract to set up shop at the Perkins Library on campus. “Robert and I came away from that really celebrating, feeling like we’ve proven our name in the community when Duke dining comes and knocks on your door,” Fida says. Then, after customers clamored for a downtown location, Saladelia opened up at the American Tobacco Campus. Then they acquired The Mad Hatter’s Cafe & Bakeshop in 2008, a stone’s throw from Duke’s East Campus. All their baking needs were met there as well, a huge plus.
40 taste — 2020
Then came another Saladelia in Hock Plaza in 2009, and another location at the Sanford Library at Duke in fall 2016. And that’s not the last strong tie the Ghanems have with Duke. Nora graduated from the Sanford School of Public Policy with a degree in global health in 2017. All the while, the Ghanems never strayed from the consistently fresh and tasty food that made their restaurants so popular. Tad, a 2020 graduate of the UNC Kenan-Flagler Business School, helps manage the garden on Shannon Road that supplies their restaurants when he’s not working his new job at Red Ventures in Charlotte. The Ghanems also have business ties to UNC, operating a number of Saladelia and Mad Hatter’s offshoots on campus as well. Tad has also played an integral part during the COVID-19 pandemic, Fida says. He helped set up Saladelia and Mad Hatter’s online ordering system, which was necessary for the Ghanems to safely reopen their locations on University Drive and West Main Street as well as their satellite locations at UNC and Duke. Working under limited operations is not anything the Ghanems, nor any restaurant business, could have anticipated. But Fida says they’re doing everything to prioritize customer and employee safety. That means temporarily pausing indoor dining, expanding the patio, enforcing social distancing when ordering takeout, and giving the option for contactless dining through QR codes and delivery services. “It was shock and fear and uncertainty for a while,” Fida says, “but right now it’s determination. We have to stay relevant as an independent owner in the business community and really center our energy to make sure we stay in business throughout this whole ordeal and focus on our employees’ safety, on our facilities’ safety, on how to make our customers feel welcomed and invited. … We’re trying to focus on what we can control.” Even with continuing hardships, Fida and Robert stay true to what they believe in, like helping to feed front-line workers at Duke University Hospital and Duke HomeCare & Hospice, among others. It’s these efforts that extend the Ghanems’ reach far beyond their pastries and hummus. At the grocery store, they often get stopped as Mr. Saladelia or Mrs. Saladelia. People think it’s their last name, though it’s simply a combination of “salad” and “deli” with the “a” added, Robert says, “for flair.” But do they mind? Not one bit. “I’ll take it,” Fida says with a laugh.
Working together to serve you better
KATY MCREYNOLDS | 919.444.1900 ALLIE RUSSELL | 919.624.6919 CHRTRIANGLETEAM@GMAIL.COM 919.545.2333 | CHRTRIANGLETEAM.COM
Global Influence
A FULL PLATE
How our community benefits from the generosity of chef Vimala Rajendran
BY MATT LARDIE
PHOTO BY BETH MANN
I
42 taste — 2020
n a town where chefs and restaurants often become institutions unto themselves, one name has stood out as much for her food as for her relentless dedication to her neighbors and community: Vimala Rajendran. On the wall of Vimala’s landmark Franklin Street restaurant, Vimala’s Curryblossom Cafe, is the statement, “Vimala cooks, everybody eats.” It’s far from a marketing ploy or snappy tagline. It’s a philosophy, a business practice and indeed, for Vimala herself, almost a way of life. The restaurant celebrated its 10th anniversary this past year, and Vimala seems to be speeding up rather than slowing down. When asked to reflect on those years, she responds (in typical Vimala fashion), not with profit projections, celebrated dishes or plans for a great expansion, but with her philosophy. “If I could be known for only one thing, it would be the ethics of the business,” she says. Spend any amount of time talking to Vimala about her food, and you will quickly learn that, although she is passionate about what she cooks, those ethics are what drives her. Her fire burns for those she feeds, for her employees and for her neighbors. Vimala’s Curryblossom Cafe began as a series of community dinners cooked in Vimala’s home nearly two decades ago. The cafe in The Courtyard today is as much a living, breathing embodiment of Vimala herself as it is a restaurant. Her “everybody eats” ideology manifests in her ingredients – Vimala estimates that she sources up to 90% or more from local farms and producers. “I make sure there aren’t too many middlemen involved and buy direct from growers and producers as [much as] possible,” she emphasizes. “The ethics of the quality of the food is so important.”
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Global Influence
Her 15 staff members enjoy the benefits of a living wage, paid vacation and sick leave, parental leave, and vision and health care, the latter through a partnership with The Greater Chapel Hill-Carrboro Chamber of Commerce. These benefits are almost unheard of in the restaurant industry. So rare, in fact, that the cafe was recently named one of “19 Great Restaurants to Work For” by Food & Wine. “One chef with her skills and knowledge cannot do it all; she needs a team,” Vimala says. “It becomes imperative to share the proceeds of the project with her team.” Whereas most restaurants try to operate off a 30-30-30 operations, labor costs and food costs formula, with the final 10% for profits, Vimala has put her own stamp on things. “We have come up with a new formula [where] profit is only about 2% to 3%,” she points out. The other 7% to 8% of that traditional 10% profit margin is what allows her to pay her suppliers and employees more. “I am just one of the workers, so I pay myself and everyone else a living wage,” she plainly states. “I have not yielded to the temptation to second-guess myself.” Vimala’s customers can expect the same level of dedication and care as well. She’s quick to point out her open kitchen, a rarity in Indian restaurants. “I am transparent to the core,” she says. “The people who dine with us have the right to know what is in their food and where it comes from.” And her impact is felt beyond her own restaurant. She’s given away countless meals through the “Everybody Eats Fund” that allows customers in need to receive free or lowcost meals. Additionally, she has cooked for and hosted numerous fundraisers and rallies, including a peace and justice rally in the 1990s in Fayetteville where she tallied more than $4,500 in her jar after giving away free pakoras. “She’s like one of our best citizens,” chef Bill Smith says emphatically when asked about Vimala’s contributions to the community. “I’ve hardly been to any worthy fundraising cause where she isn’t there.” “I admire her very much,” he adds. “She’s been real supportive of the immigrant community. You just name it, and there she is.”
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Local food writer and journalist Victoria Bouloubasis echoes that sentiment. “Vimala’s impact as a chef and restaurant owner goes beyond simply speaking up or donating funds to organizations,” Victoria says. “She provides physical space, one that’s safe and welcoming to all, for communities to host gatherings, speak their truths, celebrate themselves and others. There’s an empowering element to her impact on the Chapel Hill-Carrboro community because she’s quite literally feeding people on many levels.” For Vimala, her restaurant, her food, her very words and deeds, belong as much to her community as they do to her. And she certainly has no plans of slowing down. In June, she talked with presidential candidate Joe Biden about the implementation of the Coronavirus Aid, Relief and Economic Security (CARES) Act during the 2020 Presidential Town Hall hosted by Asian and Pacific Islander American Vote. She also continues to make free dinners for her neighbors while overseeing the restaurant which, as of September, is still operating a curbside pickup system. She plans to continue her philanthropic work, with a focus on helping refugee families and advocating for sustainable food systems. Even during the pandemic, when the food and beverage industry was hit the hardest, Vimala made it a priority to help others. Her restaurant committed to covering the PHOTO BY BETH MANN payroll costs of its team and allowing paid sick leave for workers. When the restaurant asked for donations to maintain that goal, it raised about $10,000 by August 2020, says co-owner Rush Greenslade. With the help of funding from the North Carolina Heathcare Association, Vimala’s handed out $1,000 grants to a few Chapel Hill “family-owned restaurants with food justice values” and provided meals to health care workers. A decade in, and customers still show up regularly for her samosas, tandoori chicken and warm hospitality, but what isn’t seen on the plate is what that food means to so many outside the restaurant’s walls. “This institution is bigger than myself,” she says. “I recognize that, and I want to honor that.” Those who know Vimala will tell you, she’s just getting started.
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MEANINGFUL MEALS
Celebrate special occasions – or just make Tuesday night dinner extraordinary – with these beloved dishes from local chefs PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES STEFIUK
SHAKSHUKA
By Jamil Kadoura of Mediterranean Deli SERVES 8 5 cloves of garlic, finely chopped 2 oz. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. harissa (found in Middle Eastern markets) 2½ Tbsp. tomato paste 2½ whole red bell peppers, cut into ¼-inch cubes 1½ tsp. cumin 1 tsp. salt 5 large ripe tomatoes, chopped 5 large eggs (organic eggs recommended) Serve with 1 cup of labneh (a Mediterranean yogurt) and pita Saute garlic and extra-virgin olive oil on low heat for 2 minutes. Add harissa, tomato paste, red bell pepper, cumin and salt. Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Add chopped tomatoes, and simmer for 10 more minutes until the mixture is soft and well blended. Crack eggs on top of the mixture, 1½ inches apart. Drag egg whites with a fork. Cook for about 8 minutes, until egg whites are done, and egg yolks are runny. Scoop portions with 1 egg and serve with 1 tablespoon of labneh and pita on the side.
Mediterranean Deli Offers healthy vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options as well as meats from the grill. Open for dine in, takeout and delivery. 410 W. Franklin St. Chapel Hill 919 967 2666 mediterraneandeli.com
46 taste — 2020
WHAT MEMORY DOES THIS DISH EVOKE? This is originally an authentic Tunisian dish. I remember eating this dish very often growing up. My mom, who taught me how to cook [and helped me open Mediterranean Deli in 1991], made this for breakfast or lunch. This was a very cost-effective recipe for families. I have fond memories of our entire family gathered around the pan and eating shakshuka. A NOT-TO-MISS DISH ON YOUR MENU? The Moroccan lamb shank over Moroccan couscous. Our falafel is the best, my mother’s recipe. The made-from-scratch baklava is [also] a must try.
BANQUET HALL SPACE • CATERING KOSHER EVENTS • CERTIFIED GLUTEN-FREE BAKERY • MEDITERRANEAN MARKET
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Chapel Hill • 410 W. Franklin St. • 919-967-2666 | Elon • 202 W. Haggard Ave. Ste 102 • 336-524-6644
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Recipes
MADRAS CURRY CHICKEN SOUP
By Mark Hornbeck of elements
SERVES 8 2 tsp. Madras curry powder 2 tsp. lemongrass, chopped 2 tsp. garlic, chopped 2 oz. fish sauce 2 oz. sugar 4 chicken breasts, small diced Vegetable oil 2 cups chicken stock 4 cups coconut milk 1 medium sweet potato, diced and deep fried 2 oz. button mushrooms 2 oz. can bamboo shoots (fresh whenever possible!) Cilantro, julienned In a medium bowl, mix Madras curry powder, lemongrass, garlic, fish sauce and sugar, and add chicken, marinating for 30 minutes. In a medium saucepan, heat vegetable oil, add marinated chicken, and cook until browning. Add chicken stock, bring to a boil, then let simmer for 15 minutes. Add coconut milk, bring to a boil, then add sweet potatoes, mushrooms and bamboo shoots. Cook for 15 minutes on medium heat. Serve in a bowl, garnish with cilantro, and add a side of crusty bread.
MOST POPULAR DISH? Miso maple glazed Chilean sea bass with ginger soy beurre blanc.
elements Classical and modern Asian and European cuisine with sushi nights Thursday-Saturday. Wine bar with full menu and outdoor patio. East 54 2110 Environ Way Chapel Hill 919 537 8780 elementsofchapelhill.com
48 taste — 2020
WHERE DID YOU LEARN HOW TO COOK? I first started [learning] from my mother when I was about 6 years old. I used to follow her around the kitchen with a step stool so I could get a glimpse of what she was preparing for dinner. On a professional level, I owe a great deal of my knowledge to my father-in-law, Chef Michael Chuong. Working with him the past 18 years in a country club and multiple restaurant settings, I have learned a tremendous amount about Asian fusion and classical French cuisine.
restaurant · wine bar
Contemporary New American Cuisine
EAST 54, 2110 ENVIRON WAY, CHAPEL HILL | MINUTES FROM UNC AND I-40 ELEMENTSOFCHAPELHILL.COM | 919.537.8780
PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE
By Spring Council of Mama Dip’s Kitchen SERVES 6 TO 8 For the Topping ½ cup unsalted butter, melted 1¼ cups light brown sugar One 20-oz. can sliced pineapple 9 small strawberries, remove stems For the Cake 3 eggs ¾ cup sugar 4 Tbsp. butter, softened ½ cup pineapple juice 1½ cups cake flour 1½ tsp. baking powder ¼ tsp. salt Heat oven to 350 F. Combine the unsalted butter and brown sugar and pour into an 8-by-8-by2-inch baking pan. Spread evenly to coat the bottom of the pan. Arrange 9 pineapple slices on top of sugar mixture and place a strawberry in the center of each. Beat eggs, sugar and butter together. Add pineapple juice and beat to combine. Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. Add to sugar mixture and mix until combined. Pour batter evenly over pineapple and strawberries. Bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool for 10 minutes. Place a serving platter over the cake pan, and then turn the cake over onto the platter.
MOST POPULAR DISH? Fried chicken.
Mama Dip’s Traditional Southern specialties, including a country breakfast and brunch and dinner classics like fried chicken and Brunswick stew. Open for dine in, curbside pickup and delivery. 408 W. Rosemary St. Chapel Hill 919 942 5837 mamadips.com
50 taste — 2020
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THIS RECIPE? [It’s] one of my favorite desserts. It brings back memories [of] when Mama prepared it on occasion for Sunday supper. In this recipe, I replaced the maraschino cherries with strawberries. The aroma, tartness and naturally sweet flavors of pineapple and strawberries pair well together. WHAT WAS THE FIRST RESTAURANT JOB YOU HELD? Assembling boxes at my grandfather’s restaurant, Bill’s Barbecue, which was located on Graham Street. It was part of the property Greenbridge Condominiums is built on. I was a kid earning money to go swimming at the Hargraves Community Center. After an afternoon of swimming, I [got] a box filled with fried chicken, potato salad, hushpuppies and sweet potato pie to ease my hunger pains. It taught me to work for the things you want.
Bringing Chapel Hill Tradition to your table
voted best of chapel hill for comfort southern food and barbecue Take-Out Family Meals • Outside Dining •Dine-In • Curbside Pickup 408 W. Rosemary St., Chapel Hill 919.942.5837 mamadips.com • P L E AS E C A L L FO R U P DAT E S •
Lunch & Dinner Wed-Sun 11 am - 7 pm
Recipes
CHICKEN CHETTINAD CURRY
By Priya Mathivanan of CholaNad Restaurant & Bar
SERVES 4 For Chettinad Curry Powder 2 tsp. coriander seeds ½ tsp. cumin seeds ½ tsp. fennel seeds ¼ tsp. whole black peppercorn 1 cinnamon stick 1 cardamom, whole 4 curry leaves 2 red chiles, whole 2 tsp. coconut powder ¼ tsp. white poppy seeds In a saucepan over low heat, combine all ingredients above and dry roast (no oil) 5 to 10 minutes. Let the spice mixture cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Use a spice grinder to grind the ingredients into a fine powder. Set aside in a bowl. 2 tsp. canola or vegetable oil 1 tsp. ginger garlic paste 1 cup chopped onion and tomato ¼ tsp. turmeric 1 tsp. salt 2 lbs. chicken, dark and white meat pieces, bone in or out Coriander leaves, to taste In the same saucepan over medium heat, add oil and mix in the ginger garlic paste, chopped onion and tomato, turmeric, salt and chicken pieces, and 3 teaspoons of the prepared Chettinad curry powder. Saute for 5 to 10 minutes. Cover the pan and continue cooking over low heat for 15 minutes or until the chicken is cooked. Garnish with fresh coriander leaves and serve.
CholaNad Restaurant & Bar Contemporary and traditional South Indian cuisine. Catering available. Open for dine in, curbside pickup and delivery. 310 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill 800 246 5262 cholanad.com
WHY DID YOU CHOOSE THIS RECIPE? We love this recipe for special occasions. With all of these delicious spices, it’s a very flavorful and tasty dish. The spices also help the immune system, so it is very healthy, too. WHAT WAS THE FIRST RESTAURANT JOB YOU HELD, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT? CholaNad is my first restaurant job. We are a group of IT professionals passionate about bringing contemporary South Indian cuisine to a university town. We have been here since 2011. This industry is very volatile and challenging, being one of the riskiest businesses to get into, but our quality ingredients and food products have proven to be well received by the customers.
MOST POPULAR DISH? Sauteed chicken dosa.
52 taste — 2020
Voted ‘Best in Class in the Triangle’ 7 years in a row by News & Observer
Contemporary South Indian Cuisine.
Fine Dining • Patio Dining • Complimentary Parking
Catering for Private Parties & Events available • Serving 3 locations in UNC Campus Grubhub, Takeout Central and Uber Eats deliveries Reservations and eGift cards available Online 310 West Franklin Street, Downtown Chapel Hill | 919.537.8258 | 1.800.CholaNad
cholanad.com
RISOTTO ALLA PESCATORE By Vincenzo Marrone of Italian Pizzeria III SERVES 4 TO 5 3 oz. olive oil 3 cloves of garlic, chopped 8 jumbo shrimp, peeled and cleaned, finely chopped 20 clams, in shell 20 mussels, in shell 1 full calamari, chopped 3 oz. white wine 2 Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. black pepper, to taste 1 tsp. dried crushed red pepper 40 cherry tomatoes, cut in half 1 cup risotto Chopped parsley, to taste In a medium or large saucepan over medium heat, saute the garlic in olive oil until slightly brown. Add shrimp, clams, mussels and calamari and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the seafood gets a nice color. Add the wine and cook until reduced. Add salt, pepper, crushed red pepper and cherry tomatoes. Let it all cook together. When tomatoes soften and start to break, add 3 cups of water and cook on high. When the water boils, add risotto. Stir continuously for 10 to 15 minutes, until all is cooked, and water is absorbed. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve.
MOST POPULAR DISH? We're famous for the lasagna and chicken alfredo. That's what most people ask for.
Italian Pizzeria III Pizza, Italian entrees, calzones and subs. The "place to be" in Chapel Hill for 40 years. Open for dine in, takeout and delivery. 508 W. Franklin St. Chapel Hill 919 968 4671 italianpizzeria3.com
54 taste — 2020
WHAT WAS THE FIRST RESTAURANT JOB YOU HELD, AND WHAT DID YOU LEARN FROM IT? The first restaurant job I had was at the Villa Chiara, my brother-in-law's restaurant in Naples, Italy, where we were born and raised. I cleaned a lot of fish and oysters, and he taught me some good recipes like linguini with lobster and risotto alla pescatore. I learned a lot from him, including how to cook fish on the grill. WHAT'S THE ONE MEAL YOU COULD EAT FOR THE REST OF YOUR LIFE? It would have to be spaghetti with olive oil. It's not expensive, and it's very easy to make. I love pasta, olive oil and garlic. Actually, I eat it once a week. It's my favorite. In Italy, it's a pretty big deal. I can eat it every day. It's something everyone can make. My kids love it!
The Place to Be!
CHAPEL HILL FAVORITE FOR 40 YEARS BEST PHILLY CHEESE STEAK IN THE TRIANGLE
ITALIAN PIZZERIA III
FOR CATERING OF ANY OCCASION, PLEASE GIVE US A CALL! 508 WEST FRANKLIN STREET, CHAPEL HILL
919 968 4671 • italianpizzeria3.com
Recipes
ROASTED RED PEPPER TARTARE By Bryan Keller of Market and Moss
KICK IT UP:
For each portion of tartare, add a cured egg yolk topped with a little cracked pink peppercorn. Combine equal parts kosher salt and sugar into a casserole dish and make small indentations throughout using one of the whole (uncracked) eggs. Separate the yolks and whites of one egg for each round of tartare, reserving whites for another use. Carefully place each yolk into an indentation and cover completely with more salt-sugar mixture. Allow to cure at room temperature for 2 hours, then carefully uncover yolks, remove with a slotted spoon, and rinse off the salt. Place one yolk in the center of each portion for a true-to-form, but meatless, tartare!
Market and Moss American cuisine made with fresh, local ingredients. Southern Village 700 Market St. Chapel Hill 919 929 8226 marketandmoss.com
56 taste — 2020
SERVES 15 TO 20 AS AN APPETIZER 12 red bell peppers ½ cup capers, chopped ¼ cup parsley, chopped ¼ cup Dijon mustard ¼ cup scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup Duke's mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp. hot sauce 1 Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. pepper 1 cup almonds, sliced Char peppers over open flame on all sides or in the oven on high until mostly blackened. Once fully charred, place peppers into a paper bag or a container covered with plastic wrap and let steam, about 15 minutes. Peel the charred peppers, getting rid of the skin, seeds and stems. Lay the cooked peppers on paper towels and let dry as long as possible. Try to get all the moisture out of the peppers and let cool. Cut peppers into a very small dice. Mix with capers, parsley, mustard, scallions, mayonnaise and the sauces, and taste. If more salt, pepper or hot sauce is needed, add to taste. In an oven set to 350 F, toast almonds on a sheet pan until lightly browned. Using a 3- or 4-inch pastry ring or cookie cutter, fill with the pepper mixture, and then top with almonds. Serve with your favorite rustic bread – I suggest the Union Sour from Union Special bakery in Raleigh.
MOST POPULAR DISH? I would say it’s ricotta gnudi with braised short rib in my Nonna's Sunday Gravy (red sauce) or the Portuguese octopus over minted chimichurri with pine nut gremolata and charred lemon oil. BEST-KEPT SECRET? Beyond food, I believe it’s the people, the experience, and the honest and local offerings. WHAT SETS MARKET AND MOSS APART? We strive to create exciting and vibrant dishes that won't weigh you down and that make you want to come back for more as soon as possible. We'd like to see ourselves as a place you can dine at a few times a week instead of once a month. Just as importantly, I believe we are bucking some of the old trends or styles in which restaurants have been run for decades. We are a family who supports one another and has one another's backs. No egos, just good vibes all around.
A vibrant new American restaurant and bar 700 M A R K E T S T R E E T | C H A P E L H I L L | M A R K E T A N D M O S S . C O M
Recipes
SMITH FAMILY OYSTER CASSEROLE By Jason Smith of Harvest 18
SERVES 8 3 cups panko breadcrumbs 4 large eggs 1½ cups heavy cream ½ cup milk Juice from 1 lemon Zest from 2 lemons 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce Dash of Texas Pete 3 Tbsp. fresh oregano, chopped 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme leaves 1 tsp. ground nutmeg 1 Tbsp. kosher salt Cracked black pepper, to taste 4 dozen North Carolina oysters, shucked and drained well Heat oven to 375 F. Spread breadcrumbs on a shallow baking sheet and toast until golden brown. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, cream, milk, lemon juice and zest, Worcestershire sauce, Texas Pete and herbs. Add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Fold in oysters and breadcrumbs. Pour into a buttered shallow casserole dish. Bake for about 20 minutes until bubbling and golden brown.
WHY DID YOU PICK THIS RECIPE? This is a recipe my father, Steve Smith, prepares every Christmas. I remember going with him to Earp’s Seafood Market [in Raleigh] to buy a quart of fresh shucked oysters the week of Christmas – ordering oysters was exotic and exciting for me. MOST POPULAR DISH? She-crab soup, and we offer it to go! BEST-KEPT SECRET? Ty Parker, our executive chef, was the original chef of [now-shuttered sister restaurant in Raleigh] 18 Seaboard.
Harvest 18 Local, seasonal eats. Try the goat cheese pimento dip and a bloody mary for brunch. 8128 Renaissance Pkwy. Ste. 114, Durham 919 316 1818 18restaurantgroup.com/ harvest-18
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EAT BETWEEN THE LINES
COMPILED BY KATIE BARHAM
Books by local chefs to inspire your cooking routine
“Saltbox Seafood Joint” (2019)
By Ricky Moore About The story of a homegrown eatery and its coastal culinary heritage Number of recipes 60 Dish to make Hush honeys Ricky’s favorite Crab grits “I wanted to memorialize and create a manuscript showcasing the restaurant and some of the community's favorite recipes,” Ricky says.
“Crabs & Oysters: A Savor the South Cookbook” (2015)
By Bill Smith About One of 25 books in the Savor the South series. Published by UNC Press, it explores Eastern North Carolina dishes for every occasion. Number of recipes 50 Bill’s favorite Michelada Tlaxpana Obscura “Besides recipes, I was aiming for a good read,” Bill says. “Over the years, I've discovered that a lot of people who don't cook like to read cookbooks. [And] I enjoy writing, so I'm always anxious for new projects, but I was most eager to be included in this project because almost all of the other authors [in the book series] are friends of mine.”
“The New Southern Garden Cookbook” (2011)
By Sheri Castle About Dishes designed around fresh, seasonal produce from your own garden, the local farmers market, a Community Supported Agriculture box or grocery store Number of recipes 360 Dish to make Twice-baked sweet potatoes “I wanted to share stories about the role of cooking, recipes and good food in our lives, families, community and culture,” Sheri says. “At the time, I thought it might be the only book I’d get to write, so I had a lot to say.”
60 taste — 2020
GALETTE'S GET READY TO CRUMBLE Lauren V. Allen’s passion for food translates through her other talent: photography
RECIPE AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAUREN V. ALLEN
These tiny strawberry-ginger-lime galettes pack a lot of flavor into an ultra-flaky crust, which is adapted from King Arthur Baking Company’s All-Butter Pie Crust and uses highquality salted European butter that yields a decadently rich exterior complemented by a sweet and tangy fruit filling. The surprise ingredient, graham cracker crumbs, help soak up and retain all the juices inside the galette.
2020 — taste 61
Last Look
Inspired by magazines like Saveur and National Geographic, Lauren V. Allen’s images capture colors and textures that honor both the meal and the maker, whether it’s smashed cherries bleeding red or aerial views of flour-covered hands. After graduating from UNC in 2012, the photojournalism major taught photography in Durham Public Schools for three years. She honed her skills on the side, eventually landing editorial work for big name clients like Bon Appétit, Garden & Gun and Southern Living. She captured cooks of all kinds during these gigs, from professional kitchens to family kitchens where home chefs perfected legacy recipes. What did she learn? “Food photography can be way more than just a mouthwatering photo.” Her work focuses on the vibrant aesthetic of dishes and intersects with the cultures of the people making them. In 2018, Lauren partnered with food writer Victoria Bouloubasis for a year-long photo exhibit called “CRAVINGS” at now-shuttered gallery The Carrack. In this photo series, Lauren and Victoria examined capitalism and how restaurants have long commodified minority and immigrant labor. “‘CRAVINGS’ examines the hands of those who put their dreams aside,” the series says, “so you can show yours off on Instagram.” In 2017, she co-founded The World in a Pocket, an online project devoted to exploring the world through the lens of a dumpling. From mandu to empanadas, spanakopita to gyoza, pierogi to Pop-Tarts, this storytelling project is her love letter to “pockets” worldwide. Find pocket recipes and stories at theworldinapocket.com, and enjoy one of her favorite pastry recipes on the next page.
62 taste — 2020
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Last Look
Preheat the oven to 350 F and prepare your sheet pan with parchment paper. Whisk together flour and salt. Dice 16 tablespoons of butter into small cubes and cut into flour mixture with a pastry cutter or two knives until butter is pea sized and scattered throughout. These pieces of butter make the crust flaky once cooked. With a fork or your fingers, start to slowly add in ice water while tossing flour mixture. Dough is ready when it holds together easily without crumbling. If it crumbles or is dry, slowly add more water and mix until it comes together. Roll dough into a ball and separate in half. Pat into two discs, wrap, and chill for 1 hour. Cut the remaining butter into 8 small cubes. Keep everything in separate bowls to prevent strawberries from macerating. When the dough is ready, roll out to about ⅛-inch thick and cut a 6-inch disc. Use a small bowl as your guide. Reroll the dough to cut more discs. Only do this 2 times so dough doesn’t get tough. Work quickly to keep butter cold. Once all your circles are cut, quickly build your galettes. Spread ½ teaspoon of graham cracker crumbs and ½ teaspoon of cane sugar at the center of the crust, leaving an inch border.
STRAWBERRY-GINGER-LIME MINI GALETTES MAKES 8 GALETTES 2½ cups flour 1 tsp. salt 18 Tbsp. (2¼ sticks) very cold, salted European butter, divided ¼ to ½ cup ice water 1 lb. fresh strawberries, rinsed, hulled and sliced 1 thumb-size piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated 2 full sheets of graham crackers, crushed into a fine crumb 1 lime, juice and zest 8 tsp. cane sugar ¼ cup turbinado sugar 1 egg, for egg wash
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Pile pieces of strawberry, about 3-4 whole berries’ worth, on top of the crumbs and sugar. Spread a small pinch of fresh grated ginger, another ½ teaspoon of sugar, and squeeze a few drops of lime juice over top of the strawberries. Top each with a cube of butter. Brush edges of dough with egg wash. Fold up edges and pinch to seal. Brush the outside of the crust with more egg wash and pat turbinado sugar onto it. Continue the process until all galettes are made. Chill prepared galettes in the fridge for about 15 minutes to cool the butter. Remove from the fridge and bake for approximately 35-40 minutes, or until the crust is golden. Immediately transfer galettes to a cooling rack and grate lime zest over the top. Cool completely and enjoy!
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