Taste 2015: The Triangle's Ultimate Food Guide by Triangle Media Partners

Featuring Recipes from 30+ Local Chefs!

The Triangleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ultimate Food Guide

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durham

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CHAPELHILL

M A G A Z I N E

s ou t h e rn fare . s ou t h e rn s at i s fac t i o n . When it comes to classic Southern fare, no one else in Chapel Hill comes close. For truly exceptional cuisine, seasonal oﬀerings and ﬁne dining Southern-style, there’s simply no place like The Carolina Inn. We come by Southern naturally. 211 Pittsboro Street • Chapel Hill • North Carolina 27516 carolinacrossroadscuisine.com • 919.918.2735 • crossroads@carolinainn.com

Fried Green Tomatoes

Seared Scallops

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a celebration of food & drink

Where would you go for you r last meal in the Tria ngle? S E N I O R V P, P U B L I S H I N G

Rory Kelly Gillis rory@durhammag.com V P, C O N T E N T

Andrea Griffith Cash andrea@chapelhillmagazine.com

“ I have so ma ny great me mories of sitting with friends, fa mily a nd my husba nd over Acme’s fried chicken, butter bea ns a nd mashed potatoes. Of cou rse, if this were my last meal in the Tria ngle, I’d de ma nd K evin Callagha n’s doughnuts for dessert.”

C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R

“ Tough qu estion, but if I have to go with one, then of cou rse, Saltbox Seafood Joint. Everything is so good, but it would have to include cra b grits.”

Kevin Brown

PROJECT EDITOR

Jessica Stringer

S E N I O R A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R

Amanda MacLaren ART DIRECTOR

Sally Scruggs

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Briana Brough Kristin Prelipp, KPO Photo GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Christy Wright

“ My last meal would really depend on the day. If it’s wa rm, I wa nt bru nch on the patio at Lu cha Tigre. If it’s cold, I’d get a bowl of ra men from Dashi.”

ADVERTISING

Melissa Crane

melissa@chapelhillmagazine.com

Ellen Farber

“ It would be a tough call between the ma ca roni a nd cheese at Poole’s Diner a nd chicken a nd waff les at Beasley’s Chicken + Honey, both fa ntastic comforting dishes from Ashley Christensen.”

ellenfarber@durhammag.com

Kem Johnson

kem@durhammag.com

Meg Kennedy

meg@chapelhillmagazine.com C O R P O R AT E

“blu seafood. I would sta rt with the cla ms they got in that day a nd then order the Ca rolina mou ntain trout. Wait. No. I would order the orga nic salmon. No. The Ca rolina mou ntain trout. Why choose? I would order both."

Dan Shannon President/CEO

danshannon@chapelhillmagazine.com

Ellen Shannon Vice President Amy Bell Business Manager Hannah Earnhardt Director of Production & Operations Grace Beason Events Coordinator Stephanie Randall Sales & Office Assistant Taste is published by Shannon Media Inc., the parent company of Chapel Hill Magazine and Durham Magazine. 1777 Fordham Blvd., Suite 105, Chapel Hill, NC 27514 tel 919.933.1551 fax 919.933.1557 tastetheevent.com durhammag.com chapelhillmagazine.com

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“When I moved to Du rha m 11 yea rs ago, I really made the connection between food a nd pu re joy as I beca me a pa rt of the local food scene with my husba nd, Mattie. My last meal in the Tria ngle would need to be comforting: cozy, delicious a nd full of me mories. For that reason, I’d go to Six Plates Wine Ba r a nd eat La mby Joes a nd truff le frites. They’ve been a staple on the menu a nd in my life for nea rly eight yea rs, a nd I would miss the m dea rly!”

Contemporary Global Cuisine

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHEFS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

32 FOOD FOR THOUGHT

For your next meal, pick up one of these cookbooks by a local author.

12 A SCENE-STEALING FOOD SCENE

A tribute to our stellar culinary environment.

35 GET COOKING

Recipes from the advertisers featured in this issue.

18 LOCAL GROCERIES

How to fill your cart every week with products from our area’s growing list of impressive food artisans and purveyors.

78 WHERE DO FOODIES EAT ?

Five food professionals reveal where they go for a good meal when they’re off the clock.

26 OUR JAMES BEARD AWARD WINNERS

Plus, the Triangle chefs recently named JBF 2015 semifinalists.

82 SAVOR THE DATE

Delicious reasons to sip, savor and socialize.

28 TOP CHEF

A Q&A with Ashley Christensen, the 2014 James Beard Best Chef: Southeast.

THE COVER

The makings of an Israeli Red Cabbage Salad. For the recipe from Jamil Kadoura of Mediterranean Deli, see page 49. Photo by Briana Brough. Shot on location at The Kitchen Specialist.

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202 NC Hwy 54, Suite 107 • Durham

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a celebration of food & drink F E A T U R E D I N T H I S

I S S U E

Tim Lyons Primal Food & Spirits/ blu seafood and bar

Amy Tornquist Watts Grocery

James Clark The Carolina Inn’s Carolina Crossroads

Teddy Diggs The Siena Hotel’s Il Palio

Andy Wilson Squid’s

Aligul Sevil Talulla’s

Brian Bottger Only Burger

Scott Howell Nana’s, NanaTaco and Bar Virgile

Marshall Smith Glasshalfull

Ricky Moore Saltbox Seafood Joint

Brendan Cox Oakleaf

Robert Adams Parizade

George Ash Buns

Kevin Callaghan Acme Food & Beverage Co.

Toshio Sakamaki Basan

Steven Devereaux Greene The Umstead Hotel and Spa’s Herons

Jim Anile Revolution

Michael Chuong elements

Sam Papanikas Bleu Olive Mediterranean Bistro

Spencer Carter Southern Season’s Weathervane

Ben Adams Piedmont

Katie Coleman Durham Spirits Co.

Jamil Kadoura Mediterranean Deli, Bakery & Catering

Jounte Burwell Saladelia Cafe

Peter Brodsky The Mad Hatter’s Cafe & Bakeshop

Trey Cleveland Top of the Hill

Ah Lack (Peter) Wong Shanghai

Josh Munchel Counting House at 21c Museum Hotel Durham

Sarisa Cordell Spicy 9 Sushi Bar and Asian Restaurant

Michael Yates Burger Bach

T.J. Donovan Donovan’s Dish

Andy Perno The Boot

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L O C A L

F A V O R I T E S

“The Rock Stars of Recycling in Orange County” – Blair Pollock, Solid Waste Manager of the Orange County Landfill

• Sustainable Business of the Year Recipient • North Carolina’s first Green Plus Certified Business • First LEED designed restaurant in North Carolina (MEZ)

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Y E A R S

Two time “Business of the Year” recipient – Chapel Hill/Carrboro Chamber of Commerce

• 80 tons of food waste diverted from • 125 tons of oyster shells recycled the landfill and composted annually at the NC Coast to build new oyster beds a chapel hill landmark since 1978

101 E. Franklin St. Chapel Hill

spankys restaurant.com

6 time recipient best italian in the triangle

6 time recipient best seafood in the triangle

411 W. Franklin St. Chapel Hill

15-501 at Elliott Rd. Chapel Hill

411west.com

518 W. Jones St., Raleigh 518west.com

squids restaurant.com

north , carolina s first leed designed restaurant

5410 Page Rd. Durham (Exit 282 off I-40)

mezdurham.com

MODERN SOUTHERN FLAVORS IN THE HEART OF RTP

5419 Page Rd. Durham (Exit 282 off I-40) pageroad grill.com

C H A P E L H I L L R E S T A U R A N T G R O U P . C O M

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SCENE-STEALING FOOD SCENE

A tribute to a stellar culinary environment that’s a profession, an obsession, a pastime and a conversation starter BY ANDREA GRIFFITH CASH PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIANA BROUGH

Here are a few of my favorite things: The Thai curry mussels and fries at Kitchen. The beignets during Rue Cler’s brunch service. A simple springtime scoop of strawberry ice cream from Maple View Farm. Lemon, new potato and leek soup from Toast. The pickled pepper portabella bagel sandwich at Monuts Donuts. Goat Lady Dairy eggs Benedict at Washington Duke Inn and Golf Club’s Fairview Dining Room. Oysters Rockefeller from Elaine’s on Franklin. The chilled

cucumber vichyssoise with pickled littleneck clams from Piedmont. Braised pork belly from The Black House at Straw Valley. The fried oyster salad from the Fearrington Granary. Mandolin’s chicken and waffles. The steak frites from Acme. The braised beef sandwich from Rose’s Meat Market and Sweet Shop. The patatas bravas from Mateo. The nineherb salad from The Siena Hotel’s Il Palio. Fried chicken from Venable. A pimento burger from Bull City Burger and Brewery. The spicy oyster mushroom curry from Jujube. The artisan cheese plate from Oakleaf. Bida Manda’s crispy pork belly soup. Seared scallops with lavender-hazelnut pesto from The Carolina Inn’s Carolina Crossroads. Saltbox Seafood Joint’s crab grits. 

Venable Rotisserie Bistro in Carrboro serves elevated comfort food, like fried chicken that’s topped with an arugula salad with lemon, black pepper and shaved Parmesan. T A

Harvest 18’s heirloom tomato sampler with Prodigal Farm goat cheese and fresh basil oil.

OK, so that’s more than a few, and the really incredible part is that I could go on. I haven’t even mentioned the food trucks, the farmers’ markets, the wide array of ethnic eateries, the cupcake shops, the gourmet grocery stores, the bars serving sophisticated cocktails with house-made syrups and tonics, and the new but swoonworthy restaurants that have opened as I’ve been writing this. Some foodies are born. Others are born again when they move to the Triangle. I’ve always appreciated a good meal. My family was even in the business for a while, owning and operating a bed-and-breakfast. But I didn’t become obsessed until moving to the Triangle in early 2009. The food scene here is just that good. It demands that you put down your iPhone over lunch so that you can really savor what you’re experiencing. It motivates you to spread the word: “Softshell crabs are back at Crook’s Corner!” (Although it is always hard for me to go to Crook’s and not order the legendary shrimp and grits.) It inspires even the 14

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most laid-back people to make a comprehensive list of restaurants they must try in the next 90 days. It evokes an appreciation of its past – even folks who weren’t around in the days of Bill Neal and Ben and Karen Barker know and respect these culinary pioneers. Our food scene is a profession, an obsession, a pastime, a conversation starter at a cocktail party. It begins and ends with the relationships our chefs have with farmers. Here, chefs have their favorite farmer on speed dial. The farmer – more rock star than invisible supplier – brings a boxed-up surprise to a chef’s kitchen door, and the contents inspire an outside-of-the-box nightly special by sundown four hours later. Cooking with food grown near home – or as we just call it around these parts, cooking – is a given. Chefs go to great lengths to credit the farms of origin when they write up their nightly menus. Some chefs are even growing their own produce. But the relationship would mean nothing without the consumer. This area’s educated and sophisticated

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population demands a stellar experience delivered to them by the food industry’s finest. Triangle diners have a favorite restaurant, a favorite chef, a favorite bartender, a favorite host, a favorite server – and yes – a favorite farmer and farmers’ market. A beautiful, ripe strawberry would not exist without the farmer and his operation. It would be squandered were it not for the appreciative chef to treat it with its deserved respect, creating a dish in which the flavors emerge bright and clean. And without a discerning diner – one educated on seasonality and open-minded about cooking methods who is willing to pay extra for a piece of fruit that hasn’t been traveling across the country in the back of truck for a number of days – those plated efforts would be in vain. As good as it already is, Triangle food just keeps getting better. Acclaim and awards – like Ashley Christensen’s 2014 James Beard for Best Chef: Southeast – certainly help. And as chefs from New York City and Napa Valley relocate here, they’re spreading the word and recruiting their talented colleagues. But more than that, the interest in food is growing, as students of cuisine are becoming the ubiquitous masters of it. More of us want to farm. More of us want to home brew. More of us want to bake pies. More of us want to butcher pasture-raised beef. More of us are launching food product lines – from coffee to peanut butter. And driving the entire movement is the fact that more of us want to eat well, whether we define that as organic or biodynamic, rustic or upscale, calorie-conscious or gut busting. Sometimes, we have to pinch ourselves: How did this happen? How do we deserve this? We have the gastronomical opportunities of a big city without the traffic or exorbitant cost of living. But brief, unnecessary moments of guilt quickly subside. When we taste that next perfect morsel – it’s never far away – we are overcome with a thought: Food this good deserves to be appreciated. It demands word of mouth, social media posts, online reviews. My advice? Savor first, and Tweet later.  16

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ABOVE The Black House at Straw Valley’s braised pork belly with a cinnamon pickled watermelon rind and a twice-cooked egg. BELOW Beanpeace Roastery’s Elizabeth Dorr roasts each batch of coffee herself.

READERS’ FAVORITE

GOLD WINNER

IBEST OF DURHAM 2014

Seasonal Seafood Freshly Cooked Good Fish

That’s the Hook

608 North Mangum Street, Durham 919.908.8970 SALTBOXSEAFOODJOINT.COM

LOCAL

GROCERIES Consider your shopping list made. You can fill your cart every week by buying products from our area’s growing list of impressive food artisans and purveyors – everything from flour to a finished baked good is made and distributed nearby. Here, a guide to some of our favorites. I L LU S T R AT I O N S BY L AU R A F R A N K S T O N E PHOTO BY BRIANA BROUGH

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Accidental Baker flatbread crackers

Dogwood Hill bread and butter pickles

The Bagel Bar herb & garlic cream cheese

Eco Farm olive dip

Bamboo Ladies bamboo pickles Barley Labs dog treats

Elodie Farms goat cheese Equal Measure gluten-free flour mix Escazú Artisan Chocolates The Sea Salt Bar

Beanpeace Roastery Vienna Roast Bean Traders Breakfast Blend Big Bundts & More brownie bites Big Spoon Roasters peanut cocoa butter Blakemere Company clotted cream Bloody Brando bloody mary mix

F Fair Game Beverage Co. Tipper Apple wine Farmer’s Daughter Brand Lowcountry-Style Pumpkin Preserves Fig & Honey chicken salad Firsthand Foods bratwurst

Blue Sky Oil and Vinegar honey ginger white balsamic vinegar

Foster’s Market seven-pepper jelly

Box Turtle Bakery spelt tortillas

Fullsteam Brewery Beasley’s Honey White

Bracken Brae Farm herbs Brood Soda Brothers Vilgalys Spirits Krupnikas (spiced honey liqueur)

G Goat Lady Dairy marinated chevre Guglhupf Kaiser rolls

Bull City Bar-B-Que Co. Pig Rub Bull City Burger and Brewery Kick of the Bull Spicy Beer Mustard

Bull City Ciderworks cider

Heirloom Goodness applesauce

Hillsborough Cheese Company Bloomin’ Sweet Ash cheese

Cackalacky Cheerwine Sweet Sauce

Homeland Creamery pumpkin ice cream

Cane Creek Farm prosciutto

Honeygirl Meadery Hibiscus Lemonthyme Mead

Carolina Brewery Flagship IPA

Huntington Kitchen granola

Carolina Cupboard grits Carrboro Coffee Roasters Decaf Colombia

I Imagine That Gluten Free blueberry corn muffins

Carrburritos’ Chipotle Salsa Chapel Hill Creamery Hickory Grove cheese Chapel Hill Toffee Chicken Bridge Bakery breads Cliff’s Meat Market chorizo Coon Rock Farm pork tenderloin

J Jim’s Own Sauce Mild Joe Thompson’s prawns Joe Van Gogh Kenya French Roast Just Bee Apiary whiskey honey

Cottage Lane Kitchen spicy pepper relish

Counter Culture Coffee Hologram

Katie B Bakes gluten-free coconut cake

Crude Bitters & Sodas Pineapple and Ginger Shrub

Kerala Curry mild mango chutney Kipos Greek yogurt

The Cultured Cow Creamery Red Heifer Cheddar

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La Farm Bakery ciabatta

Sari Sari Sweets caramel pecan sticky bun

Lady Edison extra fancy country ham

Scratch sesame sorghum granola

Larry’s Beans Costa Little Ricky Blend

Sleepy Creek Seafood’s Captain Phil’s Firecracker Seafood Spread

Latta’s Egg Ranch organic eggs

Slim on Soup sweet potato peanut soup

Lindley Mills organic N.C. bread flour

Slingshot Coffee Co. concentrate coffee

Little Red Wagon mocha granola

Southern Season almond chicken salad

Loaf seeded sourdough

Spread almond cheese spread

Locopops Mexican Chocolate pop

Starrlight Mead

Lunapops sea-salt caramel pop

Sunshine Lavender Farm culinary lavender Sweeten Creek Candy Company Hazelnut Toffee

Sweet Neecy spice cake mix

Mama Dip’s cornbread mix

Sweetwater Pecan Orchards natural pecan halves reamed

Maple View Farm buttermilk Matthew’s Chocolates truffles

Med Deli pita bread

Tar Heel Creamery espresso cookie ice cream

Mad Hatter turtle cheesecake

Tempeh Girl tempeh

The Mad Popper white cheddar popcorn

The Root Cellar’s coleslaw

Mati energy drink Melina’s Fresh Pasta mushroom jumbo ravioli

Tonya’s Cookies pecan crisp cookies TOPO Organic Carolina Whiskey Moonshine

Mystery Brewing seasonal saison

Triangle Brewing Company India Pale Ale

Mystic Bourbon Liqueur

Triangle Raw Foods Love Bars Two Chicks Farm kimchi

N Neal’s Deli mini pastrami biscuits Nello’s Sauce Southern-Crafted Premium Marinara

V Videri Chocolate Factory Pink Peppercorn Chocolate

Norm’s Farms elderberry jam

Village Baker cinnamon bread

NumNum Sauce Mustard Spice

Vimala’s Curryblossom Café cardamom brownies Vintage Bee Creamed Honey

O Old Havana Papa Bull Hot Sauce

Olifant+Castelo tropical citrus grill rub

Weaver Street Market’s Carrboro energy bar White Whale’s Auntie’s Old Fashioned bourbon cocktail mixer

Will’s Wild Herbs sassafras

The Parlour Vietnamese Coffee ice cream The Pig’s bacon

Pig Whistle Whole-Hog Barbecue Sauce

Yawp! Naked Nutrition Bar

Plowgirl Farm honey Pluto’s Jamaican jerk sauce

Z Zapples gourmet apple chips

R Rawclates Raw Chocolates chai bar with turmeric caramel Rose’s Meat Market and Sweet Shop bacon

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Zing Gourmet Sauce by Capsicana ZoGood coconut crunch granola bites

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Andrea Reusing – 2011’s Best Chef: Southeast – is opening a restaurant and rooftop bar in The Durham, a boutique hotel coming this year to East Chapel Hill Street.

OUR

JAMES BEARD AWARD WINNERS One North Carolina restaurant and four North Carolina chefs have claimed a James Beard – likened to the Oscars of the culinary world – since they were established in 1990. All call the Triangle home. Covering all players of the industry – chefs, restaurateurs, cookbook authors, food journalists, restaurant designers, architects and more – the James Beard Awards are the highest honor for food and beverage professionals working in North America. 26

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Here’s a look at our impressive James Beard history: Ben and Karen Barker of the legendary but now closed Magnolia Grill in Durham won in two categories – Ben for Best Chef: Southeast in 2000 and Karen for Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2003. The Barkers are now enjoying retirement. Andrea Reusing of Lantern in Chapel Hill won in 2011 for Best Chef: Southeast. Lantern marries Asian flavors and ingredients sourced mainly from local farms and fisheries. Andrea will open a restaurant and rooftop bar at The Durham boutique hotel in, yes, Durham this year. The same year Andrea was in New York City receiving her award, her West Franklin Street

PHOTO BY BRIANA BROUGH

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neighbor, Crook’s Corner, was honored with James Beard’s America’s Classics award, given to restaurants “distinguished by their timeless appeal,” serving quality food that reflects the character of their communities. And last year, Raleigh chef Ashley Christensen took home the top prize of Best Chef: Southeast thanks to her comfort food classics at Poole’s Diner. For our interview with her, see the next pages. 

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THE 2015 AWARDS, SO FAR

The following Triangle chefs and eateries were named semifinalists by the James Beard Foundation in February for the 2015 awards: Outstanding Pastry Chef

Best Chef: Southeast Scott Howell Nana’s, Durham

Phoebe Lawless Scratch Bakery, Durham

Matthew Kelly Mateo, Durham

Lionel Vatinet La Farm Bakery, Cary

Aaron Vandemark Panciuto, Hillsborough

HIGH PRAISE

The Triangle is a culinary delight, but don’t just take our word for it. Here are some of our food scene’s recent, more prominent honors:

TASTIEST TOWN IN THE SOUTH (DURHAM) Southern Living, 2013 AMERICA’S FOODIEST SMALL TOWN (DURHAM-CHAPEL HILL) Bon Appétit, 2008

ONE OF THE FIVE BEST FOOD TOWNS IN AMERICA (CHAPEL HILL) Saveur, 2008 TOP 10 TASTIEST TOWNS IN THE SOUTH (RALEIGH) Southern Living, January 2012

PHOTO BY BRIANA BROUGH

10 BEST BEER CITIES (RALEIGH-DURHAM-CARY)

“The cooking of my aunts and grandmothers is still the most important influence on my cooking today,” says Bill Smith, Crook’s Corner’s chef since 1993. The restaurant was honored with James Beard’s America’s Classics award in 2011.

ID Cocktails blog, January 2012

10 BEST U.S. CITIES FOR LOCAL FOOD (CHAPEL HILL) Huffington Post, August 2009

TOP 10 FOODIE CITIES: A SECOND HELPING (CHAPEL HILL) livability.com, 2013

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TOP CHEF

With five eateries and more on the way, James Beard award-winning chef Ashley Christensen’s star has never been brighter BY JESSICA STRINGER PHOTO BY BRIANA BROUGH

After spending years cooking in some of the Triangle’s top kitchens, chef Ashley Christensen opened Poole’s Diner in 2007. Located in downtown Raleigh, her first restaurant featured an ever-changing menu of downhome classics made with locally grown, seasonal ingredients. Four years later, she opened three more spots, Beasley’s Chicken + Honey, Fox Liquor Bar and Chuck’s, garnering national acclaim along the way. Joule Coffee & Table followed in 2013, and, in 2014, she was honored with the culinary world’s highest honor, the James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Southeast. On the eve of the opening of her next eatery, Death & Taxes, we chatted with Ashley about cooking, her award and her favorite local spots.

work. My teams and I love cooking, entertaining and extending hospitality, but above all, we love that we get to practice our craft in Raleigh. To me, the award represents putting our hearts into our work, in a way that guests can really feel it. It’s about not just selling something to our community, but creating a connection with the community and genuinely being a part of it. I’m proud to share this award with everyone who has been a part of our success: team members, guests and friends. What stands out most to you about the Triangle’s food scene?

It’s genuine. It’s the product of a diverse group of people who love living here and love being a part of this section of our beautiful state and its growth and success. The agricultural community is incredible and truly inspiring to all of us as cooks and food professionals. We’re seeing so many unique momand-pop joints popping up. It’s a wonderful food scene, and it’s growing at an incurable rate.

How does it feel months after winning the James Beard Award?

How has it changed since you opened

It feels amazing. I wake up every day in awe of the fact that I get to do what I love as a profession. It’s amazing to be celebrated on a national stage for this

Poole’s Diner in 2007?

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We opened right at the beginning of the growth spurt of downtown Raleigh’s revitalization. … At

EMBARK ON A CULINARY ADVENTURE TO where centuries-old Ottoman recipes are prepared from scratch every day.

Classic turkish and ottoman Cuisine Mezze, pidde bar & lounge 456 West Franklin Street, Chapel Hill

919.933.1177 www.talullas.com

that time, our street was a ghost town and a construction zone. We were 100% destination. At that time, we spent 30 minutes a day sweeping out all of the red mud that folks had tracked in, based on all of the construction sites that surrounded us. These days, though we are still mostly destination, the streets and sidewalks are filled – seven days a week – with families, groups and individuals enjoying all that Raleigh has to offer to the fullest. What local chefs have influenced your career, and what did they teach you?

I’ve learned something from nearly every chef in the area that I’ve had the chance to meet and work with in some capacity. Andrea Reusing taught me a great deal about quality sourcing, locally and beyond. Scott Howell taught me about systems and operating with quality, no matter how high the volume. My friend Matt Kelly taught me about the importance of having friends in this business who you can call at any hour to talk through the array of issues that come up in our work. Why is it so important to support the local growers and artisan producers in the Triangle?

We all know that eating what grows nearby is fresher and higher in essential nutrients. Additionally, when we eat locally, we contribute to our local economy and support the folks who support us. It’s important. Our small family farmers will never make it if we, the audience closest to them, don’t support them. What’s your idea of a perfect day of eating in the Triangle?

Breakfast at Mecca. Lunch at Mateo. Dinner at 30

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Panciuto. Dessert at The Parlour and a nightcap

at Slim’s. If you could trade kitchens with a chef in the Triangle for one night, who would it be and why?

Andrea Reusing. I loved working for her long ago at Enoteca Vin. It would be neat to be behind the lines at Lantern and to be surrounded by a team of cooks who she has also inspired. I’d probably get fired for eating too much of the Yang Chow rice. What’s next on the horizon for you?

We have just completed our commissary kitchen, Aux. Next is our event space, Bridge Club, and our wood-fire grill restaurant, Death & Taxes. The two share an address in a building that had formerly been a funeral home and then a bank (hence the name, Death & Taxes). They will open in the first [half] of 2015. 

bleu

live

Mediterranean

Bistro

Private Dining Room  Outdoor Seating

READERS’ FAVORITE

BRONZE WINNER

IBEST OF DURHAM 2014

1821 Hillandale Road, Durham

919.383.8502  bleuolivebistro.com bleuolivebistro

@bleuolivebistro

Pictured: Chef /Owner Sam Papanikas

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FOOD FOR

THOUGHT For your next meal, pick up one of these cookbooks by a local author COMPILED BY JESSICA STRINGER P H O T O B Y S A L LY S C R U G G S

A Passion for Bread BY L I O N E L VAT I N E T

Bake your own loafs from baguettes and French bread to ciabatta and focaccia thanks to tips from the master baker behind Cary’s La Farm Bakery.

dish covered from snout to tail (plus all the sides you’ve got room for) and even addresses the heated debate surrounding eastern versus western.

Latin American Street Food BY SANDRA A. GUTIERREZ

Bill Neal’s Southern Cooking BY BILL NEAL

The late chef of La Residence and Crook’s Corner imagined new variations of regional classics in this authoritative guide to Southern cooking traditions.

Cooking in the Moment The Lantern chef celebrates seasonal eating with a whole year’s worth of recipes featuring the best of our area’s bounty, from sweet corn to sweet potatoes.

Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue

B Y J O H N S H E LT O N R E E D A N D D A L E V O L B E R G R E E D

Both members of the North Carolina Barbecue Society, these two have the Tar Heel State’s signature T A

Mad for Muffins BY JEAN ANDERSON

BY ANDREA REUSING

Take a delicious tour of the most popular dishes from 20 Latin American countries, and, this spring, look for Sandra’s newest book devoted solely to fried and flaky empanadas.

The author of a dozen cookbooks shines the spotlight on muffins ranging the flavor gamut from sweet (triple lemon-poppy seed) to savory (easy jalapeno corn).

Mama Dip’s Family Cookbook BY MILDRED COUNCIL

In her second cookbook, Mama Dip presents more than 300 crowd-pleasing recipes like catfish gumbo and peach upside-down cake that are loved by her family.

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Not Afraid of Flavor

The Foster’s Market Cookbook

The chefs behind the beloved but now-closed Magnolia Grill in Durham drew inspiration from their fresh, imaginative cuisine for these recipes. Karen also published Sweet Stuff: Karen Barker’s American Desserts, filled with easy-to-follow confections.

The Durham cafe’s recipes are great for everyday meals or entertaining thanks to mouthwatering favorites like sticky orange-coconut pinwheels and grilled eggplant Parmesan.

Savor the South

BY SHERI CASTLE

BY BEN AND KAREN BARKER

This ingredient-driven series features cookbooks chock full of dishes ranging from classic renditions to imaginative interpretations. Three of our favorites were written by Triangle residents: Sweet Potatoes (by April McGreger), Pickles & Preserves (by Andrea Weigl) and Peaches (by Kelly Alexander).

BY SARA FOSTER

The New Southern Garden Cookbook Get inspired by the produce in your garden (or local farmers’ market) before you pick a healthy but delicious dish to make from this fruits-and-vegetable-centric cookbook. 

Seasoned in the South BY BILL SMITH

Sure, you might miss seeing the bespectacled chef if you made his timeless Crook’s Corner recipes at home, but picture this – fried green tomatoes and honeysuckle sorbet in your own kitchen!

Southern Cakes

BY NANCIE MCDERMOTT

From the rich Mississippi Mud and coconut cakes to plenty of pound cakes, there’s a dessert for every taste (and a whole chapter on icing) in this sweet read.

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A WISE MAN ONCE SAID, “WHISKEY IS LIQUID SUNSHINE.” SO, PUT YOUR SUNGLASSES ON ‘CAUSE TOPO EIGHT OAK IS HERE.

W W W. TO P O D I S T I L L E RY. CO M 3

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PHOTO BY JAMES STEFIUK

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COOKING

Recipes from the advertisers featured in this issue

THAI RED LENTIL SOUP WITH SUGAR SNAP PEAS AND CILANTRO By Glasshalfull’s Marshall Smith

2 Tbsp. olive oil 3 bay leaves 1 stalk lemongrass 1 oz. ginger, peeled and chopped 3 cloves garlic, sliced 1 yellow onion, diced 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped 1 large leek (green part removed), sliced and rinsed 3 stalks celery, chopped 1 red bell pepper, diced 1 serrano pepper, seeds removed and chopped 2 oz. Thai red curry paste (vegetarian) ¼ cup white wine 2 cups red lentils 2 qts. vegetable stock or water 1 can coconut milk 2 oz. tamari soy sauce 2 oz. mirin 2 limes, the zest and juice Salt and pepper to taste

For garnish 1 cup sugar snap peas blanched in salted water, chilled and sliced thin 1/3 cup chopped cilantro leaves In a large sauce pot, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Sweat the ginger, garlic and all the vegetables with the lemongrass and bay leaves until tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Next, add the red curry paste and cook stirring frequently for about a minute or two. Add the white wine, lentils, and stock or water. Slowly bring to a boil, stirring occasionally; reduce heat to a simmer and cook until the lentils are very soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Once the lentils are cooked, remove from the heat and add the rest of the ingredients except for the salt and pepper. Then, working in batches, puree the soup in a blender until very smooth. Finally, season with the salt and pepper and serve immediately. This soup can keep refrigerated for 4 to 5 days and freezes well.

This recipe is something we are currently serving and has been a big hit with many people requesting the recipe. T A

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' SHRIMP “TOURKOLIMANO”

PIMENTO CHEESE CROQUETTES

By Bleu Olive Bistro’s Sam Papanikas

By Durham Spirits Company’s Katie Coleman

1 lb. orzo pasta 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 cup chopped leeks 2 tsp. minced garlic ½ cup fresh tomatoes, chopped 24 large shrimp, peeled and deveined salt and pepper, to taste ½ cup white wine 2 cups fresh spinach, coarsely chopped 2 Tbsp. kalamata olives, chopped 1 lemon, juiced 2 Tbsp. flat leaf parsley, chopped 1 Tbsp. butter ½ cup crumbled feta cheese

2 Tbsp. butter 2 Tbsp. olive oil ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. flour (plus more for breading) 2 cups milk Salt, pepper and Tabasco, to taste ¼ cup cream cheese, at room temperature 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese 4 oz. pimentos, minced ¼ cup red pepper jelly 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. minced garlic ¼ tsp. salt ¼ cup canola oil Oil for frying Panko bread crumbs, as needed Buttermilk, as needed

Prepare a pot of water for the orzo pasta. Boil until al dente, strain and set aside. In a large saute pan or wok on medium to high heat, add olive oil, leeks, garlic, tomatoes, shrimp, salt and pepper. Saute until soft, 3 to 4 minutes depending on the pan and intensity of heat. Deglaze the pan with white wine. Add spinach, olives, lemon juice, parsley and butter. Let simmer for a couple of minutes. Add orzo pasta and stir for two more minutes. Remove from heat. Divide among four pasta bowls, arranging six shrimp on top of the orzo of each plate. Top with crumbled feta cheese and serve.

This is a quick and easy dish that is packed with flavor and is sure to impress. The simplicity and freshness of these ingredients take me back to my motherland of Greece, where we would be sitting oceanside enjoying food like this on a sunny afternoon. A nice chilled bottle of Assyrtiko wine would definitely be on the table.

First, make a béchamel. Place a heavy bottomed enameled pot over medium heat. When the pan is hot, add the butter and olive oil. Cook, stirring occasionally for 2 to 3 minutes. Whisk in the flour. When all of the flour has absorbed, slowly whisk in the milk. Season, as needed, with salt and black pepper. Bring the milk to a gentle boil while whisking and then reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring frequently, for 30 minutes. Mix in the cheese and pimentos and season with Tabasco. Stir until the cheese is completely melted. Pour the mix into a 13-by-9-inch pan, and chill thoroughly, about 3 hours. Meanwhile, whisk together the pepper jelly, lemon juice, garlic and salt. Then slowly drizzle in the oil, while whisking. Chill. Heat fry oil to 360 degrees. To bread the croquettes, use a 1 Tbsp. measuring spoon to scoop out the chilled mixture into balls. With floured hands, roll them. Dust croquettes in flour, dip in buttermilk, and roll in bread crumbs. Fry until golden, and drain on paper towels. Serve warm with pepper jelly.

If you love pimento cheese, then you will love these croquettes. They are bite-size fried goodness, which makes them perfect for any occasion and any season! Try assembling these ahead of time and then freezing them; they can go straight from the freezer to your frying pan. 36

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' CRISPY OYSTER WITH COUNTRY HAM LEEK REDUCTION

SHELLFISH IN COCONUT-RED CURRY BROTH

By Carolina Crossroads’ James Clark

By Revolution’s Jim Anile

For the Country Ham Leek Reduction 1 Tbsp. olive oil ½ cup country ham, diced ½ cup leeks, diced 1 tsp. garlic 2 Tbsp. Pernod 1 cup heavy cream Oyster liquor Fresh ground pepper, to taste

2 oz. vegetable oil 1 stalk lemongrass 2 fingers of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, sliced 1 medium white onion, julienned 10 large shrimp 10 mussels 6 large clams 3 Tbsp. fresh red curry paste 2 oz. rice vinegar 2 oz. palm sugar 2 oz. fish sauce 6 cups vegetable broth 8 oz. coconut milk Lime leaf Cilantro leaves Basil leaves Juice from one lime

In a heavy bottom sauce pan, heat olive oil and brown the country ham. Remove the ham and add the leeks and garlic. Cook until soft. Add the ham back in and deglaze pan with the Pernod. Reduce the Pernod by half. Add the cream and oyster liquor. Continue to reduce until liquid is thick and begins to coat ham and leeks. Season with pepper. For Oysters 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup fine cornmeal 2 Tbsp. Old Bay Seasoning 16 shucked oysters (reserve the liquor and bottom shells) Peanut oil Mix dry ingredients together. Toss in oysters and coat well. Place each oyster in the hot oil (365 degrees) and fry about 30 seconds, until crisp. Place a small spoonful of the reduction on the shell. Top each shell with a crispy oyster straight from the oil.

One of my favorite dishes, these are packed with flavor. They are breaded then fried and served with country ham and a leek reduction. Delicious and irresistible – be sure to make plenty for sharing.

In a medium sauce pot, saute lemongrass, ginger, garlic and onion in oil until just before the onions go soft. Add shellfish and red curry paste and lightly mix for 30 seconds. Add vinegar, sugar, fish sauce and vegetable broth. Cook on medium heat until the clams open. Add coconut milk and lime leaf after simmering for 4 minutes. Turn off heat, steep in herbs and season with more fish sauce if needed. Squeeze in lime and serve immediately.

This recipe is easy enough and quick enough for a weeknight dinner for the family while still packing a lot of flavor. For those not interested in seafood, you can substitute the meat or vegetables of your choice. Enjoy with steamed jasmine rice.

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1505 East Franklin Street Chapel Hill www.ilpalio.com www.sienahotel.com 919 918 2545

Il Palio is a small Italian-inspired restaurant in the Siena Hotel. We strive to emulate the best of the great Italian tradition of hospitality and quality at the table and in the glass. Our vision is simple â&#x20AC;&#x201C; use the best local and Italian ingredients as simply as possible and serve them with comfort and pride. We cook as an Italian might in North Carolina. We love where we live and live to celebrate both our location and our ingredients, from the land, air and sea. Il Palio is our interpretation of the best we have come to know in the Italian culture of hospitality, where it is best and most often celebrated, at the dinner table.

and Great Community CREATING GREAT FOOD, GREAT DRINKS

Whether you want to learn how to cook or create delicious cocktails, Durham Spirits Co. is here to educate you on everything food and drink. We offer a wide variety of hands-on cooking and mixology classes. Our class calendar has something for everyone, whether you are a seasoned cook or want to learn how to boil water. By the end of our classes, you will be ready to take on the exciting worlds of cooking and mixology, and leave with a newfound knowledge and enthusiasm for eating and drinking well. We also offer private classes and team buildings!

311 East Trinity Avenue, Durham

425 463 5430 www.durhamspiritscompany.com

ooted in Durham, North Carolina, Watts Grocery is a favorite dining hub for locals. With 20 years of culinary experience, Amy Tornquist was inspired by her childhood home to develop a restaurant that would be an intimate part of the Durham community. Tornquist, along with Sous Chef Justin Anderson, offer a menu of classic dishes and distinctive North Carolina cuisine that use the freshest locally and seasonally grown ingredients. Watts Grocery is a place you can go day or night for a fantastic meal. Do not miss an opportunity to enjoy lunch and dinner every day (except Monday), brunch on Sundays and a late night menu Thursday through Sunday.

Seasonal menus with nightly specials Signature cocktails | NC draught beers

1116 BROAD STREET DURHAM

www.wattsgrocery. com

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' CHICKEN THIGHS BRAISED AND GRILLED WITH MOLASSES-BLACK PEPPER GLAZE

KAFTA BURGERS

By Primal Food and Spirits’ Tim Lyons

2 lbs. ground lamb and/or beef (I like equal parts relatively fatty lamb shoulder and beef chuck) 1 cup flat leaf parsley, finely chopped 1 cup fresh mint, finely chopped 1 small yellow onion, finely minced 4 cloves garlic, crushed 2 Tbsp. Lebanese 7-Spice mixture (recipe below) Salt, to taste

For the chicken 4 skin-on, bone-in fresh chicken thighs Salt and pepper, to taste 2 shallots, sliced 6 cloves of garlic, smashed ½ bunch of thyme 2 cups red wine 2 cups chicken stock Season chicken with salt and pepper. In a hot braising pot or saute pan, sear skin side of chicken only; set aside. Place all of the above ingredients in a baking dish or the same braising pot. Place the chicken in the braising liquid with skin up, so it’s not submerged. You can either place the dish in the refrigerator overnight to marinate or immediately cover with plastic wrap, then foil and place in 325-degree oven for about 2 to 2 ½ hours or until a knife can easily go through the meat. Remove the chicken from the liquid (reserve the liquid). Once the chicken is cool, refrigerate it. For the glaze 1 tsp. fresh ground black pepper 3 Tbsp. molasses ½ cup red wine ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 1 cup of strained braising liquid 1 piece star anise 1 shallot, finely chopped Put all ingredients in a pot – except for the shallot – and slowly reduce by 3/4 volume. Strain and place in cooler to thicken. Spray chicken thighs with oil and place skin side down on a hot grill (preferably a wood grill). Once skin is crispy, brush on glaze, turn chicken, and brush some more glaze on the skin side. Once chicken is warm throughout, place on plate and drizzle some more glaze and some chopped scallions.

This dish was on the opening menu at Primal. Chicken thighs are a great change of pace, and you don’t find them on restaurant menus often. However, at Primal, chicken thighs are always on the menu. In the winter, you might find coq au vin! 42

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By Buns’ George Ash

Combine ingredients in a mixing bowl. After mixing, if you have time, let the kafta sit refrigerated for an hour or so. Without squeezing or compressing the mixture, gently form your patties. Grill over direct heat. Top with tomato, shaved red onion tossed with sumac, sliced Lebanese pickled cucumber and prepared tahini sauce. Or top with tomato, fresh mint, your favorite olives and labne whipped with garlic and sumac. Lebanese 7-Spice Mixture 1 Tbsp. finely ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. ground allspice 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground cloves 1 tsp. ground ginger This spice mixture is regionally varied and may include things like paprika, Aleppo pepper, cardamom, cumin and fenugreek. Have fun with mixture and make your own variation. Just don’t nix the pepper, allspice or cinnamon.

As a first-generation American born to Lebanese immigrants, I may not have learned my parents’ native tongue, but I was certainly taught the traditions of Lebanese cuisine. Kafta was the closest thing resembling a burger to come off my father’s grill. Although typically grilled as a kebab, we occasionally prepare kafta at Buns and adapt the recipe to be served as a burger.

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PHOTO BY JAMES STEFIUK

WALNUT PRAWNS By elementsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Michael Chuong

1 cup mayonnaise 1 oz. Dijon mustard 2 oz. honey Sriracha, to taste Salt and pepper, to taste Vegetable oil, for frying 24 shrimp, peeled and deveined Cornstarch Walnuts, for garnish Jasmine rice (follow directions on bag/box)

This is a twist of a classical dish from China. I added Dijon mustard for more depth in flavor. In all our dishes, there is a fusion of East meets West that only accentuates the ingredients. The walnut prawns put us on the map.

Combine mayo, Dijon mustard, honey, sriracha, and salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Mix well. Heat oil, lightly dust shrimp in cornstarch and fry until golden brown. In a separate bowl, toss shrimp in honey glaze until coated. Top with walnuts; toast them for more flavor. Serve with rice. T A

CONTEMPORARY NEW AMERICAN CUISINE

EAST 54, 2110 ENVIRON WAY CHAPEL HILL MINUTES FROM UNC AND I-40 ELEMENTSOFCHAPELHILL.COM 919.537.8780

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' GRILLED CAROLINA QUAIL WITH SOUTHERN CORN PUDDING, WILD MUSHROOM RAGU AND ONION JAM By Acme’s Kevin Callaghan

For the quail 4 birds, cleaned and partially deboned

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a two-quart baking dish and set aside. In a large saucepan, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onions and peppers and cook, stirring for 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring for 30 seconds. Add corn, thyme, 3/4 tsp. of salt and the cayenne, and cook, stirring until just tender and starting to turn golden (approximately 4 minutes). Add Madeira/Marsala to deglaze pan and cook for 3 additional minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, cream, sugar, parsley, remaining salt and black pepper until frothy. Put half of the corn mixture in a food processor with a little of the custard and blend smooth. Add flour and cornmeal to the custard and mix until well combined. Add the pureed corn, whole corn mixture, cheese, crumbled bacon and green onions; whisk to combine. Pour into the prepared dish and bake until set (knife comes out clean), approximately 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes before serving. There will be leftovers.

Wash the birds and pat dry with paper towels, checking closely for any feathers. For the marinade 1 Tbsp. canola oil 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. bourbon 1 Tbsp. honey Fresh thyme leaves 2 cloves crushed garlic 1 tsp. fresh black pepper Zest and juice of 2 lemons Whisk together all ingredients and add birds. A plastic freezer bag works well to marinate. Refrigerate for 4 or more hours. Southern Corn Pudding 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter ¾ cup sweet onion, chopped ¼ cup seeded poblano (or green) pepper, chopped 2 tsp. garlic, minced 4 cups fresh white corn kernels 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped 1 ¼ tsp. salt 1/8 tsp. cayenne ½ cup Madeira or Marsala 4 large eggs 2 cups heavy cream ¼ cup granulated sugar 1 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped 1 tsp. ground black pepper ¼ cup White Lily self-rising flour ¼ cup self-rising cornmeal 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, grated 4 strips bacon, cooked, drained and crumbled ½ cup green onions, chopped

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Mushroom Ragu 6 cups fresh, wild mushrooms (you can use button mushrooms, but it will be more subdued) 1 cup melted butter salt and pepper ½ cup Madeira ¼ cup sherry vinegar Slice mushrooms and place in a hot stainless steel pan with a tight-fitting lid. Cook on medium-high heat with lid on for 3 to 4 minutes. Take off lid (being careful of the steam). The mushrooms should appear fairly wet. If not, put lid back on and cook for another minute or two. Using a wooden spatula, stir the mushrooms and slowly add the cup of melted butter mixed with the Madeira and sherry vinegar. The mushrooms will immediately absorb the fat. Continue to stir the mushrooms gently until all of the alcohol has burned off. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside and keep warm.

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' Onion Jam 4 cups best quality onions, finely chopped (Vidalia preferred) 2 Tbsp. canola oil 2 Tbsp. butter 1/3 cup sugar salt and pepper ½ tsp. red pepper flakes ¼ cup cider vinegar 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, minced Using a cast-iron skillet, fry the onions in the oil and butter, stirring constantly with a wooden spatula, for 10 to 15 minutes or until onions begin to caramelize. Add sugar, salt, pepper and flakes, and continue to stir for another 3 minutes. Add cider vinegar and cook until liquid is absorbed and onions have the texture of jam. Stir in fresh, minced thyme. Set aside and keep warm. Assembly Once all of the separate parts of the dish are complete, it’s time to grill the quail. Remove quail and marinade from the bag and place in a bowl. Using tongs, grill quail over high heat, basting with marinade as desired. (The honey and the bourbon will create flame, so be careful not to burn.) Cook breast-side down for 5 minutes or so, rotating bird once to give grill marks. Turn over and continue cooking for 4 more minutes. Do not keep moving bird. Rotate. Flip. Remove. Three touches. Once off the grill, quail can be placed in a slow oven for up to ten minutes prior to service. To assemble, place corn pudding in the middle of the plate. Surround with mushroom ragu. Place hot quail on top of corn pudding. Top with a dollop of onion jam. Garnish with thyme sprig.

The dish has many steps, but the ragu and jam can be made a few days in advance. The corn pudding and the quail are best cooked the day of the event. Quail can be special ordered from most high-quality butchers. Dove, Cornish hen or duck could be substituted.

KATE’S CLOVERLEAF ROLLS By Oakleaf’s Brendan Cox

2-0.6 oz. yeast cakes (equivalent to 2 envelopes of 0.25-oz. dry yeast) 1 cup cold water 1 cup shortening ¾ cup sugar 1 cup boiling water 2 eggs 2 tsp. salt 6 cups unsifted flour Dissolve yeast in cold water, and set aside. Cream shortening and sugar. Add boiling water. Let cool. Add beaten eggs, yeast, salt and flour. Mix to form dough. Chill overnight. Grease a muffin tin. To form the cloverleaf shape, put three small balls of dough in each muffin cup. Let rise in a warm area for two hours. Bake at 350 degrees until golden brown.

This recipe is from my late paternal grandmother. When I was a child, she would bring an extra dozen to our house for Christmas for the sole purpose of keeping me from eating everyone else’s. These rolls are a simple yeast roll, and they typically turn out great. Except for the one time my mother attempted to make them. We still don’t know why, but they were so hard that the kids used them for batting practice in the yard. Ma was not amused. I make these rolls for every holiday celebration. These are best served fresh from the oven, warm and with lots of good butter.

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' CHICKEN AVGOLEMONO By Giorgios Group’s Giorgios Bakatsias

1 whole small organic chicken 2 stalks of celery 1 carrot 1 onion Water to cover chicken

½ cup Arborio rice 3 eggs One lemon, juiced Salt and pepper, to taste Italian parsley

Wash chicken inside and out. Place chicken in large pot with celery, carrot and onion. Cover with water, and simmer gently for an hour and a half. Remove chicken skin. Debone chicken. Pass chicken stock through a fine sieve. Reserve the vegetables. Reduce the chicken stock to create a more intense flavor. Boil rice until tender. Add vegetables at last minute. Crack eggs in bowl, and whisk them together. Slowly incorporate hot broth into the egg mixture. Keep adding slowly until all incorporated together. Squeeze lemon juice into bowl, and incorporate together. Season with salt and pepper, and top with parsley.

This recipe is for a comforting chicken soup that makes you feel good.

STUFFED EGGPLANTS By Talulla’s Aligul Sevil

6 medium-sized eggplants, peeled in strips lengthwise 3 Tbsp. oil 2 onions, finely chopped ½ lb. minced meat

2 green peppers, sliced 3 tomatoes, peeled and chopped salt and pepper ½ bunch parsley, chopped

Remove tops of eggplants. Make a deep incision lengthwise in each eggplant. Soak them in salted water for about 45 minutes. Drain and pat dry with paper towels. Fry eggplants lightly in oil, turning constantly. Remove from pan and set aside. Lightly brown onions, minced meat and peppers. Add tomatoes and continue to sautee for several minutes. Remove from heat, and add salt and pepper to taste. Place eggplants in deep baking dish, cut sides facing up. Fill each eggplant with the minced meat mixture. Top each eggplant with a slice of tomato and green pepper. Add a small amount of water to dish, cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes or until tender, in oven or on stove top. Top with parsley. Serve with rice and yogurt.

This is one of our most delicious and traditional eggplant dishes. 48

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ISRAELI RED CABBAGE SALAD By Mediterranean Deli’s Jamil Kadoura

1 cup orange juice ½ cup lime juice 1 red onion 1 cup fresh basil 1 Tbsp. garlic

2 oz. honey 1 cup vegetable oil 1 Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. black pepper 1 red cabbage, sliced

Mix all ingredients except the cabbage in a food processor to create the dressing. Then add the dressing to the cabbage and combine.

Israeli red cabbage salad is a very popular Middle Eastern dish that can be used as a fixing in falafel and hummus sandwiches and is very refreshing and colorful. Plus it’s high in vitamin C.

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Finding inspiration

in the produce, farms and ranches of the Piedmont region of North Carolina... 401-B2 Foster Street | Durham | 919.683.1213

piedmontrestaurant.com

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' PRESERVED MUSSELS WITH SUMAC SODA CRACKERS By Counting House at 21c Museum Hotel Durham’s Josh Munchel

10 lbs. mussels 2 cups white wine 2 large fennel bulbs 1 bulb garlic 3 Fresno chili peppers (with seeds) Zest of 4 lemons 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 Tbsp. salt Wash the mussels. In a large pot, add wine and mussels. Steam the mussels on medium-high until the majority of the mussels have opened. (Note: Some mussels may not open. Discard those.) Place mussels in the refrigerator to cool. While the mussels are cooling, thinly slice the fennel, garlic and Fresno chili peppers, using a mandolin. Using a vegetable peeler, zest the lemons, being careful to get as little white pith as possible. Thinly julienne the lemon zest. In a pot, add olive oil, fennel, garlic, lemon zest and peppers. Cook on low heat until the fennel becomes translucent. Place the oil in the refrigerator to chill. When mussels are cool, remove them from their shells by pulling the beard of the mussel. When the oil and all of its contents have cooled, mix in the mussels. Let the mixture sit in the refrigerator for at least eight hours. Serve mussels in oil mixture. SUMAC SODA CRACKERS 30-40 Saltine crackers 2 sticks butter, melted 5 Tbsp. ground sumac Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread out saltines on a baking sheet. Using a pastry brush, brush melted butter on the crackers. Sprinkle the ground sumac on the crackers with a heavy hand. Bake crackers until golden, about 5 minutes. Remove crackers from oven and let sit until room temperature. To serve, place mussels and oil mixture in small mason jars. Serve the jars with a fork and a small stack of crackers. To eat, place mussels and oil mixture on a cracker using a fork and enjoy.

I have to admit, canned seafood in really good olive oil is my guilty pleasure. This dish is a fresh interpretation of canned seafood and a favorite of mine. The mussels, which are typically swimming in a wonderful buttery garlic sauce, are lightened up with fresh flavors of lemon, fennel and olive oil. The anise and chilies give the dish a little heat, and the sumac saltines add crunch and zest. The dish is both regionally and globally influenced, which is something that people can expect from Counting House. 52

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ORECCHIETTE WITH BROCCOLI RAAB AND ITALIAN SAUSAGE RAGU By The Boot’s Andy Magowan

12 oz. ground pork 1 ½ tsp salt 11 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. paprika 2 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. black pepper 1 tsp. red chili flakes 2 tsp. fennel seeds 2 Tbsp. red wine 3 Tbsp. olive oil 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1-10 oz. can whole peeled tomatoes, crushed by hand 8 oz. broccoli raab, blanched in salted water for 90 seconds 8 oz. dry orecchiette, cooked as directed and cooled Grated parmesan cheese Combine pork, salt, sugar, paprika, oregano, pepper, red chili flakes, fennel seeds and wine. Brown sausage mix in olive oil until lightly browned and crumbled. Add garlic cloves and continue browning. Add crushed tomatoes and simmer for 30 minutes on low. Add blanched broccoli raab and cooked pasta. Simmer until everything is hot. Top with cheese.

This is our most popular dish at The Boot. It’s a classic Italian pasta dish and pairs great with a light, acidic red wine.

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' THE BAJA BURGER

PAD THAI

By Only Burger’s Brian Bottger

By Spicy 9 Sushi Bar and Asian Restaurant’s Sarisa Cordell

For the burgers 1 lb. ground beef 1/3 cup fresh jalapeños, diced 1/8 cup pickled jalapeños, diced ½ cup Panko bread crumbs 1 cup pepper jack cheese, grated 1/3 cup half-and-half

1 lb. rice noodles 1 egg Meat of your choice Pad Thai Sauce Scallions Bean sprouts Lime and crushed peanuts (optional)

Combine and patty – makes about four burgers.

Soak rice noodles in water for 30 minutes. Heat cooking oil in the pan on high, then place the egg in the pan, followed by the meat of your choice. Stir fry until the meat is 70% cooked, then add noodles. Reduce heat to medium. Stir fry until the noodles are soft to your liking, then add sauce and cook until dry and meat is done. Add scallions and bean sprouts, and continue to cook for one minute. Serve with lime and crushed peanuts on the side.

For the red onion and jalapeño slaw ½ red onion, halved and thinly sliced 1 large jalapeño, halved, seeded and thinly sliced Pinch of salt Pinch black pepper Pinch of oregano The juice of half a lime Mix all together. For the salsa verde 3-4 tomatillos, steamed, seeded and peeled 1 garlic clove, chopped 1 jalapeño (without seeds) Pinch of salt ¼ cups sweet yellow onions, chopped ½ avocado Puree in food processor and add chopped cilantro. Assembly To assemble burgers, you will also need 1 slice of pepper jack cheese, melted on each burger, and half a poblano pepper – roasted, seeded and peeled. Put a spoonful of the salsa verde on both the top and bottom of hamburger bun. Place burger on the bun and top with the roasted poblano pepper. Put a generous amount of the red onion and jalapeño slaw on the burger.

Pad Thai Sauce ½ cup vinegar 1 cup sugar 2 Tbsp. fish sauce 2 Tbsp. shrimp paste 1 Tbsp. paprika Boil for 15 minutes.

Pad Thai has always been my go-to meal when roaming the streets of Bangkok, and everyone from tourists and locals have eaten or seen shop owners make this staple dish on every street corner.

Growing up in California was my inspiration for the ‘Baja Burger’ – I wanted to bring the Southwestern flare to Durham!

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6900 Rocky Ridge Rd., Hillsborough 919.960.5535 mapleviewfarm.com Tours: 919-942-6122 mapleviewagcenter.com

PHOTO BY JAMES STEFIUK

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BLUE CHEESE BRUSSELS SPROUT SOUFFLE By The Kitchen Specialist’s Mary Liedhold

4 Tbsp. butter ¼ cup flour ½ tsp. salt 1 cup milk ½ cup cheddar cheese, shredded ½ cup blue cheese, crumbled 4 eggs (separate the yolks from the whites) 10 oz. Brussels sprouts, cooked, drained and finely chopped Melt butter in a saucepan. Blend in flour and salt to make a roux. Add milk all at once, and cook quickly until thick and bubbly. Stir in cheeses until melted. Remove from heat. Beat egg yolks until thick and lemony. Slowly stir cheese mixture into yolks. Stir in Brussels sprouts and cool slightly. Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold whites into hot mixture. Pour into ungreased 1½-qt. souffle dish. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 to 50 minutes.

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While serving and eating a souffle is always fun, what I love best about this one is the unusual combination of the Brussels sprouts with the blue cheese. Using a strong blue cheese works really well. We have made converts of some dubious friends!

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' STINGING NETTLE SOUP

CHICKEN ÉTOUFFÉE

By Il Palio’s Teddy Diggs

By Piedmont’s Crawford Leavoy

9 oz. cold unsalted butter, divided ½ cup shallot, peeled and thinly sliced Salt, as needed 8 oz. stinging nettles leaves, picked from stems (Use gloves when handling raw nettles) 1 lb. Yukon gold potatos 2 ½ qts. nettle stock (see below) Fresh lemon juice to garnish Creme fraiche to garnish 1 soft-poached egg to garnish each portion of soup

1 whole chicken 1 tsp. paprika 1 tsp. dried thyme 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. dried basil 1 Tbsp. black pepper 1 tsp. crushed red pepper 1 Tbsp. creole seasoning 1 cup all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. olive oil 2 small white onions, chopped 1 head of celery, chopped 1 red bell pepper, chopped

Place a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat and add 3 oz. of butter. When it begins to foam, add shallots and a pinch of salt and cook for approximately 10 minutes, stirring frequently to avoid browning. Carefully add the nettle leaves to the pot. Once the leaves have wilted, about 5 minutes, add potatoes followed by the nettle stock. Simmer for 45 minutes until the potatoes are falling apart. Puree in a blender with 6 oz. of cold butter until smooth. Use more or less nettle stock to adjust to desired consistency. Season with salt and fresh squeezed lemon juice as desired. When serving, put creme fraiche and egg into the soup bowl and pour the soup around the egg during presentation. For the nettle stock All Nettle stems, after cleaning leaves Water, to cover Combine and bring to a simmer. Continue to simmer for 15 minutes.

Stinging nettles are a beautiful, wild ingredient that are native to North Carolina. They are abundant and invasive and can be found all over our state. You might have trouble finding them at the farmers’ market, but try harvesting your own! Use gloves and take caution when picking and handling this plant, though. In its raw state, it creates histamine and other chemicals that produce a stinging sensation when contacted with bare skin.

1 green bell pepper, chopped 1 yellow bell pepper, chopped 2 links of Andouille sausage, chopped 1 package of tasso, chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1 tsp. rubbed sage 1 tsp. ground thyme 2 cups chicken stock 4 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce ½ tsp. Tabasco, or to taste 1 cup scallions, chopped ½ cup parsley, chopped

Break down chicken. Mix next 8 ingredients, and pour into a brown paper bag. Toss in chicken parts and shake the chicken to coat and flour. Knock off excess flour into bag. Save the excess. Heat butter and oil in a wide, heavy Dutch oven over medium heat. Brown the chicken on both sides. Remove and place on a plate. Add the flour from the brown bag to the remaining oil. Adjust oil or flour to make loose paste. Cook, stirring constantly, until the roux is the color of dark chocolate, for maybe 20 to 30 minutes. Stir in onions, celery, bell peppers, sausage and tasso. Cook, stirring for 10 minutes. The roux will continue to darken. Add garlic, sage and thyme. Stir well and cook 1 minute more. Stir in stock, tomato paste, Worcestershire and Tabasco. Bring to a simmer, stirring regularly. Return the chicken parts, with juices, to the skillet and bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover and cook, turning occasionally, for 1½ to 2 hours. Place the chicken on a plate and shred. Skim the fat from a sauce. Add scallions and parsley. Boil until the sauce is thickened. Season to taste. Return the chicken to the pan and heat through. Serve over cooked rice.

I cannot think of anything that conjures as many memories and is as comforting as étouffée. It is something that can be made early in the morning and cook slowly throughout the day; the smells wafting out of the kitchen make me think of my family getting together during the holidays. I share it now with my friends to introduce a little bit of Louisiana into their life. It is a dish that warms both the stomach and the soul. T A

Karenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s homemade toffee was always a special treat

for her sons growing up in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. After years of perfecting her recipe, her favorite hobby grew into a family business. Her son Mark joined her in the kitchen and today, their traditional English toffee is still lovingly coated with a secret blend of dark chocolates and finished with the sprinkling of pecans that gives Chapel Hill Toffee its distinctive southern twist!

Visit www.chapelhilltoffee.com to find your local retailer.

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' ROASTED TOMATOES AND FENNEL WITH WHITE BEANS By Bull City Food’s Leann Jocius (wife of Great Big Canvas’ Gavin Jocius)

1 large (5-6 inch round) fennel bulb, with fronds attached 1 Tbsp. olive oil 1 tsp. salt, divided 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes 2 sprigs fresh oregano 1-2 garlic cloves, minced 1/8-¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ½ tsp. black pepper 1 15 oz. can cannellini or Northern white beans, rinsed and drained 2 oz. feta cheese (optional) Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Remove about ½ cup of fennel fronds and chop. Cut the remaining stems off the bulb and discard. Trim the bottom of the bulb, leaving some of the core attached. Cut the fennel bulb in half vertically and then each half into ½-inch wedges. Heat oil in a large, ovenproof pan over medium heat. Add fennel wedges and season with about ½ tsp. of salt. Cook until fennel begins to brown, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Add tomatoes, oregano, garlic and 1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper (use more if you like things spicy). Season with remaining ½ tsp. of salt and about ½ tsp. of black pepper. Stir to combine. Place pan in the oven and bake for about 15 to 20 minutes, until the tomatoes are tender, stirring occasionally. Add in beans and most of the chopped fennel fronds. Cook for a few minutes longer, until beans are heated through. Remove oregano stems before serving. Serve garnished with remaining fennel fronds and feta cheese (optional).

Roasting brings out the flavors of the fennel and tomatoes, while white beans add a meaty texture, making this a satisfying vegetarian dinner or a hearty side.

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SWEET POTATO GRATIN WITH PRUNES By Nana’s Scott Howell

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 ½ lbs. medium leeks, white and tender green parts, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced crosswise 2 Tbsp. thyme, chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper 2 cups heavy cream ½ lb. pump pitted prunes 6 lbs. sweet potatoes Preheat the over to 350 degrees. Butter a 4-quart glass or ceramic baking dish. Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Add the leeks and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Cover and cook over moderate heat until the leeks soften, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until any liquid has evaporated. Add the cream and bring to a boil, then remove from the heat. Spread the prunes between sheets of plastic wrap and use a rolling pin or meat pounder to flatten them to a ¼-inch thickness. Peel the sweet potatoes and slice them 1/8-inch thick. Strain the leeks, reserving the cream. In a large bowl, toss 3/4 of the sliced sweet potatoes with the leeks and prunes and season with salt and pepper. Spread the sweet potatoes in the prepared baking dish and arrange the remaining sweet potato slices on top in a decorative pattern. Pour the reserved leek cream evenly over the sweet potatoes. Cover the potatoes with buttered parchment paper and then foil and bake for 45 minutes. Uncover, press the sweet potato layers down slightly and bake, uncovered for 45 minutes longer or until the sweet potatoes are tender, bubbling and golden brown.

By using sweet potatoes instead of white ones, I’m putting a Southern spin on a traditionally French dish.

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' ROASTED COUNTRY-STYLE PORK RIBS WITH CHIPOTLE-SPICED COFFEE JUS

GAMBAS AL AJILLO “TEXAS PETE” GARLIC SHRIMP

By Weathervane Restaurant’s Spencer Carter

By Saltbox Seafood Joint’s Ricky Moore

1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. freshly cracked black pepper 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 tsp. smoked paprika 6-8 country-style pork ribs ¼ cup olive oil 1 small sweet onion, diced 1 Tbsp. tomato paste 1 cup coffee (yesterday’s leftovers) 2 tsp. chipotle powder ½ cup brown sugar 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, chopped

7 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped  ½ cup olive oil  15 small to medium uncooked peeled and deveined shrimp (fresh is always best, but uncooked frozen shrimp can be used)  ½ tsp. salt  ¼ tsp. fresh ground pepper  1/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes  1 tsp. Texas Pete  1 Tbsp. chopped parsley

Combine kosher salt, black pepper, minced garlic and smoked paprika in a small mixing bowl. Rub the pork ribs thoroughly with the spice rub and let marinate overnight. Preheat oven broiler to high, place pork ribs in roasting pan and drizzle with olive oil. Broil 3 to 4 minutes per side then reduce oven temperature to 325 and bake 30 to 40 minutes. Remove pork spare ribs from oven, transfer to a plate (reserving all cooking juices in roasting pan) and keep warm. Place roasting pan on medium-low heat, and add chopped onion; sweat 3 to 4 minutes, add tomato paste and cook an additional 2 to 3 minutes. Add remaining ingredients (coffee, chipotle powder, brown sugar, Worcestershire sauce and rosemary) to roasting pan, along with spare ribs, and simmer on low heat for an additional 10 minutes.

In a small covered container, shake some of the chopped garlic with 3 to 4 Tbsp. of olive oil. Cover the peeled shrimp in a small bowl with the garlic oil and let marinate for 15 to 20 minutes. In a small skillet, heat enough olive oil to just semi-cover all of the shrimp. Once the oil is hot, add the garlic, salt and pepper. Cook for 10 seconds. Now add the shrimp and red pepper flakes. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, until the shrimp are done. Finish with Texas Pete and parsley. Serve the shrimp in the hot sizzling oil with some bread for dipping the oil.

When my first child, Hunter, was born, we were living in Chicago. The first meal we had when I brought my wife and baby home was tapas from a Spanish restaurant in our neighborhood. Here’s a recipe that pays homage to what we ate.

This recipe is a spin on my grandmother’s pork roast recipe I grew up eating. Several times a year my family would ‘harvest’ some hogs so we would always have tons of pork in the freezer, and this was one of my all-time favorites of hers; I just tweaked the recipe to add a little spice. She always served hers with whipped potatoes and turnip greens. I prefer mine with some grits and a simple corn relish.

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' PORK BELLY HOPPIN’ JOHN

SESAME COLD NOODLES

By Donovan’s Dish’s T.J. Donovan

By Shanghai’s Ah Lack (Peter) Wong

¼ lb. pork belly (cut into ½-inch pieces) 1 Tbsp. garlic, minced ½ cup celery, diced 1 cup sweet onion, diced ½ cup leeks (white and light green parts only, washed thoroughly and sliced into half moons) 1 cup red pepper Salt and pepper to taste 2 cups black-eyed peas (boiled with ¼ cup of boiling liquid held in reserve) 1 cup jasmine rice 2 tsp. chopped fresh parsley

Lo mein noodles ¼ tsp. Kikkoman soy sauce 1 ½ Tbsp. Wei-Chuan’s original sesame jam 1 ½ Tbsp. creamy peanut butter ½ tsp. vinegar A pinch of salt 1 ½ tsp. sugar Toasted sesame seeds ½ tsp. pure sesame oil Shredded cucumbers Bean sprouts Crushed toasted peanuts Cilantro

In a large saute pan, brown pork belly until golden. Add garlic, vegetable mirepoix, salt and pepper and cook until vegetables are sweating but still al dente. Stir in black-eyed peas and rice. Toss with reserved liquid. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Cook the lo mein noodles in a pot of boiling water until soft. Drain and cool the noodles in a pot of ice-cold water until they are cold. In a bowl, combine soy sauce, sesame jam, peanut butter, vinegar, salt, sugar, half a handful of sesame seeds and sesame oil. Add a little bit of water to the concoction and mix everything together until the sauce has a creamy texture. Once the sauce is prepared, mix the noodles and sauce together. Serve the noodles on a plate. Garnish the dish with the shredded cucumbers, bean sprouts, peanuts and cilantro.

We love this because it makes a delicious side with just about any dish. We love to pair it with our pimento cheese-stuffed chicken breast, fried chicken or chicken and dumplings. It’s as Southern as it gets: fresh, local and made from scratch!

This would make a sweet scrumptious meal or snack with a nutty crunch on a hot day.

FRENCH SHRIMP By Burger Bach’s Michael Yates

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp. garlic, minced 1 tsp. shallots, minced 6 shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 tsp. fresh tarragon sprigs 6 oz. heavy whipping cream Salt and pepper, to taste Heat oil over medium-high heat. Add garlic and shallots, and cook until fragrant. Lower heat to medium, add shrimp and sear 1 minute. Add Dijon mustard to pan, and stir to coat shrimp. Add tarragon and cream to pan; cook until cream has reduced by half. Season with salt and pepper. Serve in a bowl with toasted baguette slices.

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Our French shrimp is a classical pairing of Dijon mustard and tarragon. The subtle mustard spice paired with a hint of anise and finished with cream makes a wonderful starter or light meal. Pair this dish with a glass of Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough district on the South Island of New Zealand and be taken away to Our Bach.

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Basan’s Volcano Roll: a ﬂavor eruption for your tastebuds. One of many fresh + delicious rolls created by Head Chef Toshio Sakamaki

359 Blackwell St. Durham NC | BasanRestaurant.com | 919.797.9728

PHOTO BY JAMES STEFIUK

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ROSEMARY CHICKEN WITH WHOLE-WHEAT FETTUCCINI AND GARLIC CREAM SAUCE By Chapel Hill Restaurant Group’s Greg Overbeck ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 lb. fresh chicken breast, sliced 2 cups fresh mushrooms, sliced 6 oz. sweet marsala wine 3 ½ cups garlic cream sauce (recipe below) 3 Tbsp. rosemary butter (recipe below) Fettuccini, plain or whole wheat, cooked 1 cup (or to taste) parmesan cheese, freshly grated Heat oil in saute pan and saute chicken. Add mushrooms and saute briefly. Deglaze with marsala, and reduce until wine is almost evaporated and somewhat syrupy. Add garlic cream sauce and rosemary butter and heat through. Add cooked fettuccini and quickly toss. Turn onto warm plate and top with cheese. Garlic Cream Sauce 2 Tbsp. oil 1 Tbsp. garlic, fresh chopped 1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. pepper 2 tsp. apple cider vinegar ¼ tsp. Tabasco 1 cup dry white wine) 1 cup chicken stock 6 cups heavy cream Heat oil in small saucepan and sautee garlic briefly. Add salt, pepper, vinegar, Tabasco, wine and chicken stock. Reduce by half. Add heavy cream and reduce by half. Rosemary Butter ¼ lb. butter 1 Tbsp. fresh rosemary, finely chopped ½ tsp. salt ¼ tsp. pepper Add all ingredients to food processor or mixer, and process or mix until all ingredients are well combined.

When we opened 411 West, we wanted to offer fresh, housemade pastas, so we invested in a pasta extruding machine from Italy. But that was only the first step. We needed innovative dishes that would set us apart from other restaurants that offered pasta, and our Executive Chef Susan Pickford presented the ‘Whole-Wheat Fett.’ I was blown away and immediately knew we would be offering a dish that would be strikingly different from any pasta dish in the Triangle. My kids and I still order it on a regular basis, and I love it as much as I did the first time I tried it almost 25 years ago. 68

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' LEMONY KALE SALAD

CHICKEN APPLE COUSCOUS

by Durham Farmers’ Market’s Emily-Kate Hannapel

By Saladelia Cafe’s Fida Ghanem

1 bunch kale Salt as needed 2 cloves garlic Juice of 1 lemon Olive oil A few tablespoons of Parmesan or any other hard cheeses Red pepper flakes to taste

6 chicken breasts 2 cups couscous 1/3 cup dried cranberries 1/3 cup raisins ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped ¼ cup dried apricots, chopped into ¼-inch slices 2 cloves garlic, shaved fine 2 Tbsp. olive oil 2 tsp. curry powder ½ tsp. black pepper 4 cups chicken broth 1 Granny Smith apple, diced into ¼-inch pieces

Thinly slice the kale and put in an appropriately sized bowl. Sprinkle a teaspoon or two of salt on a cutting board. Peel your garlic and mince it with the salt. If you have a mortar and pestle, you can also use this to combine the garlic and salt. Put garlic, salt and lemon juice in a jar with lid and add olive oil. (I usually do 2 parts olive oil to 1 part garlic/salt/ lemon juice.) Shake dressing and pour over thinly sliced kale. Use your hands to massage the dressing into the kale until well mixed. Grate Parmesan and mix in. Sprinkle red pepper flakes to taste and let sit for at least 30 minutes. The salad should be lemony and tangy with a bit of a kick.

I like dino kale the best, and I think Chapel Hill Creamery’s Calvander works especially well in this recipe.

Season chicken breasts with desired amount of kosher salt, black pepper, cumin and dried thyme. Pan sear and finish in 450-degree oven for 12 minutes or until thermometer reads 160 degrees. After cooking, let chicken sit for 5 minutes before slicing across the grain. (It’s recommend to sear the chicken of ahead of time and finish it in the oven halfway through cooking the couscous.) In a large pot, place couscous, cranberries, raisins, cilantro and apricots. (Do not heat.) In a separate pan, sautee garlic in olive oil over medium heat until translucent. Add curry powder and black pepper toasting the spices, just until their aroma is released. Add chicken broth and apple and simmer over medium-high heat until apples are barely tender. Pour this over the couscous mixture, and let sit to cool. Couscous will finish cooking in about 10 minutes. Stir couscous off heat and fluff with fork. Serve chicken breast sliced over hot couscous. Garnish with fresh cilantro.

My mom use to make the vegetarian version of this dish every year for Lent. She would omit the chicken and substitute the chicken broth with vegetable broth for a yummy vegan/ vegetarian version.

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durham HOLIDAY GIFT

CH A m ag az in e P E L DECEMBE

PAYING IT

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Co Our Page 44 101 Wine 22

BEST LAW

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SUMMER BEACH DAY CHILI By Watts Grocery’s Amy Tornquist

Page 56

Pasta with Roasted Heirloom Pumpkin and by Chef IsaiaArugula h Allen of The Eddy Pub

durham

magazine

CHAPELHILL

M A G A Z I N E

BRINGING YOU SCRUMPTIOUS FOOD CONTENT EVERY MONTH, REFLECTING OUR AREA’S AWESOME CULINARY SCENE! GOCCIOLINA The Plate

a source of pride Pasta dishes are, naturally, One that for this casual Italian restaurant. the spaghetti has become popular is starts with housecarbonara. The dish olive oil, and then made bacon sautéed in followed by a adds freshly cooked spaghetti cheeses. The mixture of egg and pecorino Dante sheep cheese most prominent is the is gently mixed out of Wisconsin. This a little cooking with the hot pasta and rich noodle liquid to create a creamy, as the highlight, experience with the cheese bacon flavor and accentuated by meaty $9 fresh cracked black pepper. The Place

ts on the try 11 incredible new restauran dishes you have to scene and the great BRIANA BROUGH BY AMANDA MACLAREN

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2014 SEPTEMBER m durhammag.co

GUIDE 33

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BY | PHOTOGRAPHY

13 in a strip mall Gocciolina opened June of Carver on Guess Road just north the same reaction as Street. “At first, I had Benjamin says most people,” Chef Aaron the restaurant shares of the shopping plaza Hearing Aids and with Sir Speedy, Global space quickly grew an ABC store. “But the utilizes primarily on me.” The restaurant and meats, and North Carolina seafood from local farms sources its beef and pork A large portion and lamb from Colorado. vegetables, of the menu focuses on season. prepared fresh and in The People

at Pop’s and Rue Aaron, who has worked Italy in 2007 and Cler, spent a year in eating, drinking and used most of his time what the country experiencing the best of is my attempt had to offer. “Gocciolina what I enjoyed so to give people a taste of and specifically much throughout Europe Italian food me, “For says. he in Italy,” you can talk about means ingredients that of story.” sort some have that] [and

3 lbs. ground beef 3 Tbsp. oil 3 cup onions, chopped 1 ½ cup green peppers, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. garlic, finely chopped 1 35-oz. can chopped tomatoes 6 Tbsp. chili powder 2 cans red beans 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar ¾ tsp. pepper 1-2 Tbsp. Cajun Spice Mix (see below) Tabasco Brown the meat in oil in a heavy-bottomed pot. Once brown, you can either add the onions and peppers, or, for better results, remove the meat. Then sweat the onions and peppers until translucent – but not brown – and add garlic. Add the tomatoes, spices and beans. Cook until vegetables are soft. Then add salt and pepper and more spice as needed. (I always add extra cumin and coriander.) Cajun Spice Mix Kosher salt Cayenne Paprika Garlic powder Black pepper Oregano Onion powder Mix equal amounts of the above ingredients.

Here’s a Tip

to be shared and The menu is designed new dishes. So bring encourages folks to try a bit of everything.  the family and sample

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Every summer, there’s always a day when it rains at the beach. And we always make a pot of chili and get out the movies and puzzles. We often set up a bar of condiments – grated cheese, sour cream, chives, avocados, pico de gallo, tortilla chips or Fritos.

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' TRIPLE-LAYER MUD PIE

PEACH FRITTERS

By Chapel Hill Toffee

By Herons at The Umstead Hotel and Spa’s Evan Sheridan

3 squares semisweet chocolate, melted ¼ cup canned Eagle brand sweetened condensed milk 1 prepared chocolate pie crust ½ cup Chapel Hill Toffee pieces 2 cups cold milk 2 packages instant chocolate pudding mix 1 8-oz. package Cool Whip, thawed

4 peaches, peeled and diced small 5 ½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup sugar 1 Tbsp. baking powder 1 tsp. salt 3 large eggs 1 ½ cups whole milk 1 vanilla bean with seeds scraped

Mix melted chocolate and condensed milk until well blended. Pour into pie crust and sprinkle with toffee bits. Pour milk into large bowl and add pudding mixes. Beat with whisk for 2 minutes or until well blended. (Mixture will be thick.) Spoon 1 ½ cups of pudding mixture over toffee bits. Add half of the Cool Whip to remaining pudding mixture and blend thoroughly. Spread over first pudding layer. Top with remaining Cool Whip and sprinkle with a few more toffee bits. Chill for at least 3 hours before serving.

Peel and dice the fresh, ripe peaches. Combine the next 4 ingredients with a whisk. Whisk together the next 3 ingredients. Combine the wet ingredients with the dry ingredients, making sure there are no lumps. Fold in the peaches. Allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Using a 1-oz. portion, scoop deposit batter into a fryer at 350 degrees. Cook until golden brown and batter is cooked through. Sprinkle with either cinnamon and sugar or powdered sugar and serve with a seasonal jelly.

This recipe was developed by Jean Durham, a Chapel Hill native and longtime friend of the Graves family, creators of Chapel Hill Toffee. Featuring crumbled bits of Chapel Hill Toffee, this pie makes the perfect sweet treat to end any family meal.

SPICY CUCUMBER LEMONADE By TOPO Organic Spirits’ Esteban McMahan

2 oz. TOPO Organic Vodka 2 oz. cucumber water (recipe follows) 2 oz. lemon juice 1 oz. jalapeño simple syrup (recipe follows) Cucumber slice

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This is a recipe that I like to take to farmers’ markets at the height of peach season. It showcases a simple way to serve peaches beyond the pie. This year, it was accompanied by a sweetened black tea with lychee, fresh peach and peach nectar that I like to call PeachyLychee Tea.

Combine all ingredients in a shaker with ice and shake until very cold. Pour into a tall glass and garnish with a cucumber slice. To make cucumber water, puree one cucumber; strain to remove all seeds and pulp. Combine strained cucumber with equal parts water. To make jalapeño simple syrup, bring two parts sugar and one part water to a boil. Insert whole jalapeño peppers. Boil for 10 minutes, then let sit to cool. Strain and pour into a container. Simple syrup will last for several weeks in the refrigerator.

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PHOTO BY JAMES STEFIUK

DAIRYLAND DELIGHT ICE CREAM PIE By Maple View Farm Ice Cream’s Allison Nichols and Farmer Bob

4 cups cornflakes cereal ½ cup peanut butter ½ cup light corn syrup 1 half gallon Maple View vanilla ice cream ¼ cup chopped peanuts 2 Tbsp. sugar 1 cup Maple View Farm heavy whipping cream ½ cup chocolate syrup ½ cup caramel

YUZU CHEESECAKE By Basan’s Toshio Sakamaki

2 lbs. cream cheese ½ lb. butter ¾ cup heavy cream 12 egg yolks ¼ cup sugar 1/3 cup yuzu juice (or lemon juice) 2 1/3 Tbsp. flour 2 Tbsp. cornstarch 12 egg whites ¼ cup sugar Melt the cream cheese with the butter and cream. Beat the egg yolks and sugar to medium peak (ribbon stage). Mix the cream mixture into the egg yolks in a separate bowl using a

Lightly grease a 9-inch pie pan. In a large bowl, mix together cereal, peanut butter and corn syrup. Press mixture into greased pie pan. Spread softened ice cream evenly into crust. Top with chopped peanuts. Freeze until firm, at least 4 hours. To make the whipped cream, place a metal mixing bowl and metal whisk into the freezer for 10 to 15 minutes. Place the sugar into the mixing bowl and add the whipping cream. Whisk just until the cream reaches stiff peaks. Top the pie with homemade whipped cream. Drizzle with chocolate syrup and caramel.

spatula. Add the yuzu juice and the dry ingredients into the mixture and make sure it is mixed evenly. Beat the egg whites with the sugar to medium peak. Fold in the egg whites into the mix and pour it into a 2 ½-inch-deep half size stainless steam table pan with parchment paper. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes at 350 degrees.

I like desserts that are light and not too heavy. My Yuzu cheesecake is similar to a New York-style cheesecake in that it’s smooth and not too sweet. But to give it a Japanese twist, I like to use yuzu instead of lemon.

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WHERE DO

FOODIES EAT? We ask five food professionals where they go for a good meal when they’re off the clock

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T R E A T

“I very rarely frequent many restaurants since I spend so much time in my own. But one restaurant that I enjoy taking my wife and three children to is Kurama in Durham. It’s an older restaurant, but the sushi rocks. One of my favorite dishes is the tuna carpaccio. They serve a mountain of fresh tuna over some thinly sliced sweet onions, tomatoes and avocados. Then they drizzle a generous amount of spicy soy vinaigrette topped with some toasted sesame. Once in a while they will have some monkfish liver, which they serve in

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Sam Papanikas of Bleu Olive with his wife, Cleopatra, and their children â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 8-year-old Constantine, 4-year-old Maria and 10-year-old Angelika â&#x20AC;&#x201C; at Kurama.

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a little ponzu sauce with grated daikon radish and sliced scallion. [It’s] definitely a treat if it’s available. We have been going there for roughly 15 years, so whenever we make the trip out there, we are taken care of like family. There are so many great restaurants in Durham that I would like to experience sooner than later, but my schedule makes it challenging. I’m definitely proud to be part of this ever-growing Bull City restaurant scene.” – Sam Papanikas, chef and owner at Bleu Olive A

F O R

A N T O N I A ’ S

“We mostly love cooking together in our own kitchen, but that’s not to say we haven’t had many a fine meal in Durham and surroundings! We lately have tried Antonia’s in Hillsborough and had some very nice meals. The atmosphere is low-key, and it’s not noisy so it’s great with friends for conversation. The food – and we have always had a fish of some variety – has been well prepared, and the prices are very reasonable. … For a quick [meal] near my office, we also like the sushi at Sake Bomb. I know they have some other menu options as well, but we generally stick to the sushi. I keep changing which one is my favorite so we feel the need to repeat.” – Mary Liebhold, president and founder of The Kitchen Specialist Inc.

ded pork and smoked tofu, garlic sauce eggplant, Chinese broccoli, Kung Pao lotus root, Yangchow fried rice, and salt and pepper shrimp. An ice-cold Tsingtao is perfect for washing down spicy Sichuan food.” – April McGreger, creator and owner of Farmer’s Daughter G O I N G F O R

B A C K

F O U R T H S

“The best dish I’ve eaten in a Triangle restaurant this year was the traditional Burmese pennywort salad served as part of Transplanting Traditions community farm benefit dinner, held at Lantern in October. Prepared by Transplanting Traditions’ chef Khai Nyui Tow with help from Andrea Reusing and her staff, the salad consisted of fresh pennywort (a small-leaved, citrus-scented green also known as gotu kola), chopped ripe cherry tomatoes, fresh chili, and roasted peanuts with a dressing of salt, fish sauce and palm sugar, all topped with fried shallots and onions. Refreshing, bright and complex, the salad offers the perfect balance of sweet, salty, sour, bitter and savory (or umami) that we crave as humans. I’m pretty sure I had fourths, and I stopped eating it only when it was gone!” – Mark Overbay, Big Spoon Roasters S E A S O N ’ S

G O I N G

G L O B A L

“These days my dining companion is most often my 4-year-old son, and his favorite place to eat is Gourmet Kingdom [in Carrboro] – hands down! He won’t share his soup dumplings with anyone. I particularly enjoy Gourmet Kingdom with a party of five or more though because it is at its best when you can sample from a variety of dishes. We always get the soup dumplings or small steamed pork buns, garlic-sautéed pea shoots, and either the crispy whole fish in Sichuan bean sauce or the spicy Sichuan fried fish that is tossed in toasted chilies and garlic. I also love Ma Po Tofu, shred80

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G R E E T I N G S

“I manage the Chapel Hill Farmers’ Market, but I actually live in Durham and frequent a lot of the restaurants there that make an effort to use products from local producers. Monuts Donuts, Old Havana, Toast, Mateo, Scratch and Pizzeria Toro are probably my most visited spots. However, when I do dine in Chapel Hill, one of my go-to places is Vimala’s Curryblossom Cafe. It’s not just the incredible food, but the inspirational story behind how Vimala’s came to be and her commitment to working with farmers and serving fresh, local ingredients. And it makes me really glad to know that she’s putting her money into our community,

buying high-quality meat and produce from the farmers at my market. I usually start with pakoras and a mango lassi or chai tea. For the main fare, I go for the chicken curry thali (and not just because it uses chicken from T5-Farms). The carrot halwa is great for dessert, but usually I go for whatever seasonal special is being offered. I have to say it’s really a rewarding experience sitting down to dinner made with products grown and raised by the folks I get to work with every day!”

Ali Rudel (with 3-month-old daughter Beatrice) is a fan of Vimala’s Curryblossom Cafe because of the food and “the inspirational story behind how Vimala’s came to be and her commitment to working with farmers.”

– Ali Rudel, manager of the Chapel Hill Farmers’ Market  T A

At the Farm to Fork Picnic each June, chefs and farmers team up to create outstanding food pairings at the W.C. Breeze Family Farm in Orange County.

SAVOR THE DATE Delicious reasons to sip, savor and socialize

Triangle Restaurant Week Every January & June trirestaurantweek.com During this weeklong celebration of culinary excellence, participating restaurants offer special threecourse menu options and fixed pricing, creating a great opportunity for residents and visitors alike to indulge in the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest cuisine. Fire in the Triangle January through March competitiondining.com Each evening, two restaurants battle it out side by side in a single elimination, blind dinner format. Ticket holders get to savor a six-course menu (three courses from each chef without knowing whose

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food you’re tasting) created around a “mystery” North Carolina ingredient that is revealed to the chefs on the day of their battle. Diners vote to determine who moves on to the next round of competition. Triangle Wine Experience Every February trianglewineexperience.org Events include a grand gala and auction in Raleigh and dinners that pair the hottest Triangle restaurants with some of the world’s finest wines. Bull City Food & Beer Experience Every March bullcityexperience.com At the Durham Performing Arts Center, sample food from 30 Durham restaurants and beer from 50 premier breweries. Beer & Bacon Fest March 28, 2015 beerandbacon.com Enjoy more than 75 of your favorite international beers and wines paired with bacon dishes, plus foodie exhibits and a Butchering 101 class. (More than two tons of gourmet bacons from all over the country will be griddled on-site at Cary’s Booth Amphitheatre.) World Beer Festival Raleigh April 11, 2015 worldbeerfestival.com Plenty of samples in downtown Raleigh, plus beer appreciation, explorations of the use of certain ingredients and brewing methods, and information on selecting beers to enhance a culinary experience. Stir the Pot April 19-20, 2015 southernfoodways.org Chef Ashley Christensen will host fellow James Beard Award-winning chef Ryan Prewitt of Peche Seafood Grill in New Orleans. Sunday’s dinner is a five-course meal with wine pairings while Monday’s event is a potluck supper. Piedmont Farm Tour April 25-26, 2015 carolinafarmstewards.org/pft Load up a car with your friends and family, choose the farms you’d like to visit and get out in the countryside for the 20th year of self-guided tours. Downtown Raleigh Food Truck Rodeos May 3, June 14, August 9 and October 11, 2015 downtownraleighfoodtruckrodeo.com These massive food truck rodeos – with more than 50 trucks from across the state – feed thousands of people around the capitol building.

a celebration of food & drink

April 23-26, 2015 tastetheevent.com Durham Magazine and Chapel Hill Magazine – the creators of this publication – bring you some amazing food and wine programming this spring that will double as a fundraiser for the Food Bank of Central and Eastern North Carolina. Experience Durham and Chapel Hill’s vibrant food scene with events like the Grand Taste Experience at Durham Armory on April 23, a Foggy Ridge Cider Dinner on April 24 and a Burger Smashdown on April 25. Buy a VIP package to attend a special reception hosted by James Beard award-winning chef Andrea Reusing. For more information, see our four-page promotion on page 85 of this issue. Tickets are on sale now through our website – tastetheevent.com. And be sure to follow us on Twitter (@tastetheevent) for daily updates. We’ll see you there!

N.C. Hops and Roots Festival Usually held in May or June nchopsandrootsfest.com Bring your whole family to this festival celebrating the riches of North Carolina’s farms, food, craft breweries and vineyards. Carolina Cornucopia: A Conference on Foodways of the Tar Heel State May 29-30, 2015 ncfoodways.web.unc.edu Hosted by the North Carolina Collection, this new event will feature panels of food experts and historians, a dinner showcasing North Carolina’s foods and more. 

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HUNGRY FOR MORE?

Farm to Fork Picnic June 7, 2015 farmtoforknc.com Chefs and farmers partner to create outstanding food pairings under a tent at the W.C. Breeze Family Farm in Orange County. Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival July 31-August 1, 2015 beerandbourbon.com Sixty beers, 40 bourbons and lots of barbecue to sample at the Booth Amphitheatre in Cary. Pepper Festival October 4, 2015 pepperfestnc.org At Briar Chapel – a neighborhood south of Chapel Hill – taste an abundance of pepper-themed dishes and drinks. World Beer Festival Durham October 10, 2015 worldbeerfestival.com Plenty of samples in downtown Durham, plus beer appreciation, explorations of the use of certain ingredients and brewing methods, and information on selecting beers to enhance a culinary experience. TerraVITA October 8-10, 2015 terravitaevent.com Sustainable food and drink is the focus of this multiday event with a classroom series, a grand tasting, and multiple dinners showcasing chefs, beverage producers and food artisans from across the Southeast. A Tasteful Affair Usually held mid-October rmh-chapelhill.org Held at the Blue Zone at Kenan Stadium and benefitting the Ronald McDonald House of Chapel Hill, this food and beverage tasting event showcases plenty of local restaurants and food artisans and features a celebrity judging component. Bull City Race Fest and Food Truck Rodeo Every October bullcityracefest.com Run one mile, five miles or a half-marathon – then restore your energy with the downtown food truck rodeo and beer garden. 

We’ve Got You Covered Visit durhammag.com and chapelhillmagazine.com early and often for more detailed event information via our online calendars, roundups of weekend happenings and daily blog posts.

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For food-centric entertainment anytime, check out the following venues and organizations: CHOP – Culinary Historians of the Piedmont chopnc.com Meetings of this Chapel Hill-based organization usually include a presentation by a cookbook author or chef. Durham Central Park durhamcentralpark.org Signature events include food truck rodeos and Meals at the Market. Durham Spirits Company durhamspiritscompany.com Sign up for cooking and mixology classes like “I Love Paris in the Springtime.” Fearrington Village fearrington.com Foodies will especially love the Cooks and Books series, which has attracted superstar cookbook authors such as Sean Brock and Edward Lee. Local Farmers’ Markets ncfarmfresh.com In addition to fresh produce, they offer cooking demonstrations, festivals, chef competitions and fundraising dinners. Southern Season southernseason.com A destination for finding specialty food and gifts, the retailer is also known for its restaurant (The Weathervane) and cooking school. Taste Carolina Gourmet Food Tours tastecarolina.net Go behind the scenes to chat with chefs and artisans and enjoy their delicious food. The Cookery durhamcookery.com A state-of-the-art commercial food production facility that’s also an event space known for food-themed fundraisers. Triangle Food Tours trianglefoodtour.com A casual yet educational way to sample food from a cross-section of locally owned and enthusiastically operated restaurants. Whisk whiskcarolina.com The Cary cooking store offers cooking classes, author events and knife-sharpening services.

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a celebration of food & drink

Thank You to Our Participants

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss out! Buy tickets today at tastetheevent.com

DRINKS

Alley Twenty Six Bacco Selections Bar Lusconi Brood Soda Brothers Vilgalys Spirits Bull City Ciderworks Carrboro Coffee Roasters Cave Taureau Crude Bitters & Sodas Empire Distributors Foggy Ridge Cider Fullsteam Brewery Mystery Brewing Mystic Bourbon NanaSteak Piedmont Wine Imports Sam's Bottle Shop Steel String Brewery TOPO Brewery TOPO Organic Spirits Total Wine Wine Authorities

a celebration of food & drink

go to tastetheevent.com

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The Annual Grand Taste Experience

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Taste 40 of the best dishes and beverages this area has to offer at The Durham Armory. Purchase VIP tickets to gain access to a reception beforehand that’s hosted by Lantern’s Andrea Reusing. $95 / ticket

VIP

Reception

with andrea reusing

Buy one of our VIP packages to attend a reception, hosted by the James Beard winner, prior to the Grand Taste Experience!

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Foggy Ridge Cider Dinner Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint and John Eisensmith of Six Plates prepare a four-course elegant dinner in the beautiful Sarah P. Duke Gardens paired with The New York Times “America’s Favorite Cider Award Winner,” (and 2015 James Beard semifinalist) Foggy Ridge Cider. $110 + gratuity / ticket

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Burger Smashdown The best burger makers in the Triangle – Buns, Al’s Burger Shack, Tyler’s Taproom, Only Burger and Mattie B’s Public House – face off at Fullsteam Brewery, which is providing the beer. Bring the whole family! $55 / ticket

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Artisan Cocktail Dinner Five of Durham’s best craft cocktail makers – Tim Neill of Bar Lusconi and Peccadillo, Olivia Gray of Revolution, Crawford Leavoy of Piedmont, Brad Weddington of NanaSteak and Shannon Healy of Alley Twenty Six – bring you originally curated drinks paired with delicious bites from the kitchens of Revolution and Piedmont! Plus: a DJ and dancing. $110 + gratuity / ticket

Roots of North Carolina Dinner Amy Tornquist of Watts Grocery and Marcie Cohen Ferris, author of The Edible South: The Power of Food and the Making of an American Region, tell the story of North Carolina’s food history. Enjoy a three-course meal with wine pairings. $85 + gratuity / ticket

T H A N K S TO O U R S P O N S O R S

Proud supporter of the Durham branch of the Food Bank of Central & Eastern North Carolina. Last year, we provided over 17,000 meals!

AT THE INTERSECTION OF ART AND NATURE.

W W W. T H E U M S T E A D. C O M C A R Y, N O R T H

CAROLINA

866.877.4141

tastetheevent.com