PRESENTED BY
FEATURING RECIPES FROM 30+ LOCAL CHEFS
THE TRIANGLE’S ULTIMATE FOOD GUIDE
TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO ANTICIPATE IS LEXUS.
THE RX WITH LEXUS SAFETY SYSTEM+, STANDARD. Nobody’s perfect. That’s why the Lexus RX comes with our most advanced safety features— standard. Including our Pre-Collision System with Pedestrian Detection, Auto Braking, Lane Assist Technology, All-Speed Dynamic Radar Cruise Control and Intelligent High-Beam Headlamps. The Lexus RX with Lexus Safety System+.* Another step closer to a safer world.
JOHNSON LEXUS OF RALEIGH 5839 Capital Blvd., Raleigh (919) 301-0381 JohnsonLexusRaleigh.com
lexus.com/RX | #LexusRX
JOHNSON LEXUS OF DURHAM 1013 Southpoint Autopark Blvd., Durham (919) 794-3802 JohnsonLexusDurham.com
Options shown. *Drivers should always be responsible for their own safe driving. Please always pay attention to your surroundings and drive safely. Depending on the conditions of roads, vehicles, weather, etc., the system(s) may not work as intended. See Owner’s Manual for details. ©2017 Lexus
DURHAM 604 Fernway Ave. 919-907-2656 RALEIGH 7713-39 Leadmine Rd. 919-846-5478 RALEIGH 2100 Hillsborough St. 919-268-8965 WAKE FOREST 1849 S Main St. 919-205-2500 CARY 525 New Waverly Pl. Opening April 2017
@Gonza_Tacos @gonzatacosytequila gonzatacosytequila
gonzatacosytequila.com
JOB DESCRIPTION Client: LDA National Headline: To Err Is Human Job Number: 420LDACO-P72902 Altair Number: Bill to Job Number: 420LDACO-P71989 Version: A Ad Unit: Magazine Publication(s): Shot List: LEX-RXG-MY16-0059.02 Bleed size: 7.25 x 9.75 Trim size: 7 x 9.5 Safety size: 6.25 x 8.75 Gutter: Vendor: XYZ Graphics Inc # of Colors: 4/c Insertion Date:
IDEA TEAM Account Executive: Justin Peacock Assistant Account Executive: Purva Kogje Project Manager: Wendy Kleinberg Project Manager: Dawn Cochran Producer 1: Ariadna Vazquez Cost Control Specialist: Gus Zepeda Art Studio: Eric Metz
THE TRIANGLE’S ULTIMATE FOOD GUIDE
What is your spirit food? Pimiento cheese, preferably made by Amy Tornquist [of Watts Grocery], Bill Smith [of Crook’s Corner] or my husband.
P U B L IS H E R Ellen Shannon E X E C U T I V E E D I TO R Jessica Stringer C R E AT I V E D I R E CTO R Kevin Brown A RT D I R E CTO R Sarah Arneson ASS ISTA N T E D I TO R Laura Zolman Kirk E X E C U T I V E E D I TO R , D U R H A M M AGA Z I N E Amanda MacLaren STA F F P H OTO G R A P H E R Briana Brough GRAPHIC DESIGNER Christy Wright D I G I TA L CO N T E N T M A N AG E R Morgan Weston I N T E R NS Chandler Carpenter Olivia Cohen Paige Connelly Courtney Dennis Lauren Farrington Nikki Murdoch Ali Stephens
Easily Geer Street Garden’s brie & avocado baguette. It’s the ultimate balance of nutrition and comfort.
CO R P O R AT E Dan Shannon President/CEO Ellen Shannon COO Rory Kelly Gillis Senior Vice President/Publishing
The Carolina Inn’s sweet gem lettuce Caesar salad with cornbread croutons. I get energized when I eat this at lunch; it powers me through my afternoon.
Brenda Larson Director of Business Development & Customer Experience Thorne Daubenspeck Director of Sponsorship & Digital Sales Cait Hawley Digital Service Representative Chelsea Mars Creative Digital Strategist Amy Bell Business Manager Caroline Kornegay Administrative and Operations Assistant Grace Beason Events Coordinator Elitegroup Distribution
Homemade pasta and marinara. It fills the house with wonderful smells – garlic, tomatoes and herbs – and fills my soul with comfort! The “Tampa” Cuban sandwich at Old Havana Sandwich Shop. It’s a comeback sandwich – crisp, flavorful and authentic – packed full of smiles. The mojo sauce is a game changer.
CO N T R I B U TO RS Moreton Neal, April Marlow Ravelli, Rachel Ruvo, James Stefiuk A DV E RT IS I N G Melissa Crane melissa@chapelhillmagazine.com Kem Johnson kem@chapelhillmagazine.com
Cornbread! Preferably homemade, but I [also] like Mama Dip’s. It’s a nourishing, comforting staple.
Taste is published by Shannon Media Inc., the parent company of Chapel Hill Magazine, Durham Magazine and Chatham Magazine. 1777 Fordham Blvd., Suite 105, Chapel Hill, NC 27514 tel 919.933.1551 fax 919.933.1557 tastetheevent.com durhammag.com chapelhillmagazine.com chathammagazinenc.com
2 taste 2017
FOOD EVENTS
restaurant · wine bar
Contemporary New American Cuisine
EAST 54, 2110 ENVIRON WAY, CHAPEL HILL | MINUTES FROM UNC AND I-40 ELEMENTSOFCHAPELHILL.COM | 919.537.8780
taste 2017 3
12
26 88
42
Table of Contents
6 Recipe Index
8 Chefs Featured in This Issue
42 Cook Local Recipes from the advertisers featured in this issue
12 Staying Fit in a World of Food Two chefs on exercising, healthy meals and guilty pleasures
88 Eat. Drink. Be Merry. A calendar of food and drink-centric events to savor all year long
22 Cooking for All Seasons Recipes inspired by our area’s bountiful produce
94 Foodie Fun Our roundup of culinary-centric experiences and entertainment
26 Going Gluten-Free Foodies spill on where to dine out when going without gluten
100 Gifts for Food Lovers The best new local cookbooks
32 Perfect Pairings Beer and wine picks
104 Hungry for More? Three more foodie photos
THE COVER
Tea for Two at the Washington Duke Inn & Golf Club We previewed their spring desserts as well as tea service. PHOTO BY BRIANA BROUGH
4 taste 2017
T H E N A N A ’ S F A M I GLUTEN-FREE L Y EATING
2514 University Rd • Durham reservations: 919-493-8545 Monday-Thursday 5pm to 9pm Friday & Saturday 5pm to 10pm Proudly serving dinner to Durham for over 23 years
WINNER
IBEST OF DURHAM 2016
N A N A STE A K 345 Blackwell Street • Durham 919-282-1183 nanasteak.com Tuesday-Thursday 5pm-10pm Friday & Saturday 5pm-11pm Sunday 4pm-9pm Durham’s Premier Steakhouse!
BAR
VIRGILE MAIN & MANGUM
105 S. Mangum St • Durham 919-973-3000 Monday-Wednesday 4pm to 12am Thursday-Saturday 4pm to 2am
2512 University Rd • Durham 919-489-TACO(8226) Tues-Thurs, Sun. 11am to 9pm Now open until 10pm Fridays & Saturdays
A unique bar with artfully crafted food & drinks in downtown Durham
Durham’s Dirty Meats Call us for your next Catering!
taste 2017 5
64
32
22 Recipe Index
Vegetarian V Quick and Easy QE Party Perfect PP
Mains, Sides and Salads
Meat
Achiote Pork Carnitas, p. 72 PP Bacon and Collard Dumplings, p. 60 PP Braised Beef Short Ribs, p. 72 PP Brisket Tacos, p. 66 PP Cochinita Pibil (Mexican Pork), p. 60 PP Japanese Lollipops, p. 32 PP Lamb Burger, p. 54 PP QE Pork Tenderloin with Spring Succotash, p. 14 PP Wild Boar Osso Buco with Cannellini Bean Stew, p. 36 PP Woodfire Grilled Heritage Farms Pork Belly, p. 23 PP
Pasta/Pizza
Broccoli Rabe and Fennel Sausage Pizza, p. 54 PP QE Ravioli alla Napoli with Fresh Tomato Pink Cream Sauce, p. 62 PP QE Wafu Pasta (Japanese-style Bacon and Mushroom Pasta), p. 52 QE
Poultry
Balsamic Chicken with Mushrooms and Thyme, p. 70 PP QE Carolina Hot Chicken Sandwich, p. 56 PP Farmstead Chicken Burger, p. 76 PP QE
Seafood
Cioppino Fish Stew, p. 62 PP Crabcakes on Smoked Gouda Stone Ground Grits with Roasted Corn and Green Tomato Relish, p. 68 PP Oysters Rockefeller Casserole, p. 50 PP QE Pan Seared Scallops with Sweet Potato Puree, p. 70 PP
6 taste 2017
Sauteed North Carolina Shrimp, p. 72 PP QE Seafood Brodetto, p. 66 PP Smoked Trout with Lemon Creme Fraiche, Crispy Potatoes and Buttermilk Blini, p. 44 PP QE Tequila and Lime Cured Salmon with Avocado Toast, p. 34 PP Walnut Prawns, p. 62 PP QE
Vegetarian
Broiled Grapefruit, p. 18 V QE Foul Mudammas, p. 44 V QE Heirloom Tomato Soup, p. 23 V QE Mujadara (Lebanese Lentils and Rice), p. 50 V QE Piquillo Bisque with Goat Cheese Fondue, p. 46 V QE Squash Casserole, p. 44 V QE Thai Green Papaya Salad, p. 42 V QE Vegetarian Chili, p. 64 V Yellow Mustard Slaw, p. 24 V QE
Desserts Brown Butter Almond Brownies, p. 78 V PP QE Dark Chocolate Salted Pecan Tart, p. 84 V PP QE Maple View Farm Ice Cream Cookie Sandwiches, p. 82 V PP QE
Drinks Conniption Specialino, p. 84 V PP QE Espresso Soda, p. 76 V PP QE Ode to Henry, p. 76 V PP QE Moscow Bull, p. 84 V PP QE Sofie-mosa, p. 84 V PP QE Strawberry Shrub, p. 23 V PP QE
The Place to Be!
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
ITALIAN PIZZERIA III
WINNER
508 WEST FRANKLIN STREET, CHAPEL HILL
BEST OF CHAPEL HILL
919 968 4671 • italianpizzeria3.com
2016
taste 2017 7
CHEFS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE
Gilberto Ordonez Dos Perros
Miguel Gordillo
Michael Chuong elements
David Voelz
Galloway Ridge
Sam Papanikas
Kyle Amandolia
Tim Lyons
Vincenzo Marrone
Bleu Olive Mediterranean Bistro
Primal Food & Spirits/ blu seafood and bar
Burger Bach
Italian Pizzeria III
Jujube
Kanki Japanese House of Steaks & Sushi
Mediterranean Deli, Bakery and Catering
Jamil Kadoura
Oakleaf and Alberello
Brendan Cox
Andy Wilson
David Wimmers
Lee David Whitsel
Rob Kinneen
Toshio Sakamaki
Whole Foods Triangle
Saladelia
8 taste 2017
Alex Cordova
Bill Smith
Crook’s Corner
The Mad Hatter’s Cafe & Bakeshop
The Boot
Basan
Squid’s
Megan Ayers
Jason Smith
Kelly Taylor Pizzelle
John Cappelletti Capp’s Pizzeria
Carolina 1663 at the Sheraton Chapel Hill
Brandon Sharp
Maggie Radzwiller Comfort Cuisine
Tony Del Sarto Glasshalfull
Bryan Kowalski
Kaci Walker
Oscar Gnapi La Residence
Mildred Council
Mick Carroll
Leslie Eckert
Kevin Callaghan
18 Seaboard, Cantina 18 and Harvest 18
The Carolina Inn’s Crossroads Chapel Hill
Juju
The Art Institute of Raleigh-Durham
Mama Dip’s
Acme Food & Beverage Co.
Jermaine Penny
Goose Hospitality
Radius
Rich Carter
Catering Works
Scott Howell
Nana’s, NanaTaco, NanaSteak & Bar Virgile
Ricky Moore
Saltbox Seafood Joint
J. “David” Peraza-Arce
Gonza Tacos y Tequila
taste 2017 9
“Best Tasting Show in Town” www.kanki.com
“Best Tasting Show in Town” www.kanki.com
Staying Fit In a World of Food Two chefs on exercising, healthy meals and guilty pleasures
ook no further than Acme chef Kevin Callaghan’s pecan-crusted fried chicken if you want to know his philosophy on eating. He knows you’re not going to be eating the Southern staple every night. But when you do order it, he hopes you take your time to enjoy it – and also the butter beans and tomatoes. Kevin doesn’t just spotlight farm-fresh produce on his menu – he is spreading the idea of loving what you eat beyond Carrboro. Recently, he was asked to be a Lululemon ambassador and he serves as executive chef for the nationwide Wanderlust Festivals, described as “all-out celebrations of mindful living,” where he teaches classes and coordinates with farmers. “The energy at these festivals is something,” Kevin says. “It’s a real honor for me to be their executive chef and to reach so many people about sustainability and our shared values that we have in food.” How has being a chef affected the way you think about food and nutrition? I think that when people think about chefs they think that all [we] do is sit around and eat bacon and stuff like that. But when you think about food, especially nowadays, you think about the farmers’ market. Working with food everyday gives you great respect for the farmers and the people, so there’s a lot of reverence around the food that you eat. That’s really important. I don’t just plough into something; I think, ‘Wow, someone worked really 12 taste 2017
hard to make this happen.’ It makes me be intentional [about] cherishing what I’m eating. What’s your favorite way to exercise? The two major things I do the most [are] run – I’m a runner – and I do pilates. I do a little of both [treadmill running and trail running], about 4 to 7 miles, as many times a week as I can. PHOTOS BY ZOË DEHMER
L
Balancing Act
How do you balance eating healthy without getting bored of the same meal? One of the things I try hard not to do is to think in terms of “Oh, I need to eat X or Y.” I think that everything’s healthy – just in its proper amount. I make smoothies – vegetable, fruit smoothies – that I often have as my meal in the middle of the day, because they’re really solid in terms of energy. The challenge of restaurant work is that we start at 8 in the morning, just like everyone else, but when everyone else is shutting down, [that] is when we’re really cranking it into high gear. We have to have lots of energy no matter the time of day. For me, balance is more like – exercise helps too – remembering that I want to enjoy a meal. I want to sit down and really enjoy it – I don’t really appreciate just randomly eating something fast that’s available right in front of me. What’s your favorite guilty pleasure food? The interesting thing about as you get older is that you
HEALTHY CHEFS
Chef Kevin Callaghan hauling fresh local corn from the Carrboro Farmers’ Market.
taste 2017 13
HEALTHY CHEFS
[want] something that is deeply familiar. For me, a really guilty pleasure is, if such a thing were to exist, [when] on Sunday mornings we make fresh biscuits. Just to make sure that they’re exactly right, I’ll tear one in half and eat half a biscuit. To me, that’s as good as it gets. There’s lots of ways you could decorate that if you wanted to, but that first bite is pretty spectacular. What healthy meals do you like to make? My younger daughter and I both really like to make composed salads, which are salads that are usually slightly dressed [and have] some protein on top. We’ll grill a steak and put it on top of a salad that [has] all sorts of vegetables and cheeses mixed in. That’s probably the obvious healthy meal we come back to again and again.
Pork Tenderloin with Spring Succotash and Cider Glaze
BY KEVIN CALLAGHAN OF ACME
Serves 4 2 pork tenderloins FOR THE BRINE 3 1/2 Tbsp. sugar 4 1/2 Tbsp. salt FOR THE GLAZE 2 cups apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 1 cup sugar 1/4 tsp. salt black pepper FOR THE SUCCOTASH 1 qt. chicken stock 2 bay leaves 1 1/2 cups field peas 1 cup butter beans 3 Tbsp. butter 2 cups chopped sweet onions 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1/4 tsp. chili flakes 2 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped 1 1/2 cups sweet corn 1 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered 1/2 cup parsley, chopped 1/4 lb. arugula, spinach, or lacinato kale, chopped
14 taste 2017
Any advice for chefs starting out on how to combat stress and stay healthy? I think that you have to be aware that you’ve got to treat your body really well. I work with a woman named Ann Archer, who’s a pilates instructor and she’s really remarkable. You realize that no matter what your profession is, you have to take care of yourself. And as a chef, you really have to take care of yourself, because you are constantly in front of food and you can constantly go off in the wrong direction. I think that’s something you have to be really careful of and just be aware of the importance of eating well. Your act of eating well will translate into your food, and you’ll be able to provide food that’s really delicious, healthy and wonderful for your guests.
Salt and pepper to taste Start the brine by bringing 1 qt. of water to a simmer. Stir in sugar and salt until dissolved. Remove from heat. Set aside. When room temperature, put tenderloins in gallon zip-close bag. Add brining liquid to the bag and seal. Refrigerate for at least 5 hours. For the glaze, in a heavybottomed pan, bring cider and mustard to a simmer. Whisk in sugar. Let reduce until a syrup forms. Remove from heat and stir in salt and black pepper. Set aside. Bring chicken stock to a boil. Add enough salt so that the stock has good flavor. Add bay leaves. Introduce field peas and butter beans into the stock and let simmer until beans are cooked through and tasty. Making sure to reserve leftover stock, strain with a colander. Set aside. When brining is complete, you can continue with the succotash. Using a Dutch oven or large pot, melt butter and add onions. Stirring with a wooden spoon, let cook on medium flame for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally until translucent. Add garlic, chili flakes and black pepper. Stir well and let cook with the onions for about 2 minutes. Add corn, stirring well. Cook until corn is cooked through, about
4 minutes. Add field peas and butter beans mixture to the onions. Stir to combine. Add enough of the reserved stock just to cover. Bring to a simmer uncovered. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes to let stock reduce. Taste for salt and pepper, introduce thyme and adjust seasoning accordingly. For the pork, set oven to 350 F. Remove tenderloins from brine and pat dry with a paper towel. Get a cast-iron skillet very hot. If you’d like, at this point you can add a couple tablespoons of cooking oil. Sear the tenderloins on all sides, being aware that moving the meat too much won’t get the desired browning effect. This should not take long at all. Using tongs, put tenderloins on a broiling pan, and place in the oven for 3 minutes. Remove from the oven and let rest for 2 to 3 minutes. To plate, bring up succotash to a simmer. Gently stir in tomatoes and parsley. Let cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat. Stir in your preference of leafy greens. Place tenderloin on cutting board. Slice into 1/4” thick rounds. Using a large slotted spoon, place portion of succotash (about 1 ½ cups) in the center of the plate. Arrange slices of tenderloin on top of the succotash. Spoon glaze over pork. Serve hot. Delicious with bread & butter pickles on the side.
HEALTHY CHEFS
Sophisticated farm to table dining in Pittsboro’s renovated, historic Chatham Mills
Lunch • Dinner Wine • Cocktails 480 Hillsboro St., Pittsboro, NC 919.533.6303 • oakleafnc.com
Ciao Bella!
Now Open in Briar Chapel Florentine Sandwiches Housemade Pastas From Scratch Desserts and More! 984.234.3017 72 Chapelton Ct., Chapel Hill, NC
alberellonc.com taste 2017
15
HEALTHY CHEFS
Ricky Moore's got a sweet tooth – you'll find him in line for Rise Biscuits & Donuts treats.
PHOTO BY BRIANA BROUGH
W
Worth His Salt
ant to start your day like Saltbox Seafood Joint’s chef Ricky Moore? Try his recipe for broiled grapefruit (page 18) or make some oatmeal. “In the mornings, I take steel-cut oatmeal and sprinkle on homemade granola and some flaxseed,” he says. If he’s really feeling creative, he’ll mix in something sweet. “I make homemade apple sauce that I put in [it] as well. That’s good for me and it’s filling,” Ricky says. “It pretty much gets me through the day.” If you spent your day serving up seafood fresh from the coast 16 taste 2017
in a 205-square-foot shack, you’d need subsistence too. Throughout the workday, Ricky relies on quick snacks so he can keep up with the demand for catfish and crab grits. When he’s not on his feet at work, you’ll find him walking the hills in his neighborhood or whipping up something easy in his own kitchen, like a one-pot meal.
How has being a chef affected the way you think about food and nutrition? I’ve always been a slim guy my entire life and had a huge appetite, so my metabolism seemed to be my best friend.
HEALTHY CHEFS
taste 2017 17
HEALTHY CHEFS
I enjoyed a lot of good eats, in particular stuff that’s rich. Now that I’m a little bit older, I have to manage that. Not that I deprive myself but I do manage what I eat and how much I eat of it. I don’t necessarily have a big appetite anymore either. A lot of people outside of the business or outside of the kitchen don’t have the accessibility to [food all day]. You get to a point where you’re around everything you can indulge on but at the end of the day, I’d rather go home and eat a good open-face peanut butter and jelly sandwich with slices of bananas on it. I want simple eats when I leave the kitchen.
What’s your favorite way to exercise? I do a lot of running. I either run in my neighborhood or go to a fitness center and use the treadmill. I’m all about endurance so a lot of calisthenics. I do it three times a week and I’m pretty consistent. Sometimes I fall off – I’m not perfect. I walk my neighborhood. My neighborhood is extremely hilly so you have what we used to call in the military a range walk or a really quick sort of walk. The hills are ultra-challenging. [It’s like having] a StairMaster in my neighborhood.
they continue to cool off. They get just about [that perfect] consistency. I have a mug that I keep inside my freezer like a beer mug and I pour milk inside of it. That’s my indulgence.
Any advice for chefs starting out on how to combat stress and stay healthy? Don’t deprive yourself. Our pleasure [as chefs] is cooking and serving people but also eating. [But you can] start to rethink how much we participate in the pleasure part of food. It needs to be sustainable for our bodies. We use that term ‘sustainable’ throughout a lot of our conversations as chefs. We talk about sustainability in this and sustainability in that ... How about sustainability in ourselves and our health? Because there’s a lot of us in the business who are not monitoring it and we are running on empty. I know colleagues out there who have gotten to a place where it’s become extremely unhealthy and challenging and it leads to people not living. This lifestyle, it generally doesn’t help anyway with late-night hanging out and overindulging, so you’ve got to find the balance. We have to rest and take care of our bodies.
What healthy meals or balanced meals do you like to make? During the week I eat essentially vegetarian. [I probably eat] vegetarian meals four days a week and I’ll do some protein or meat three days. It works for me. I’m starting to enjoy more vegetable-focused dishes. I don’t need to get stuffed. I eat just enough. [I make] a one-pot vegetable dish and I eat of a lot of beans or skewered vegetables. I enjoy lentils, olive bread and goat cheese. My wife makes a killer lentil stew that’s straightforward. It’s filling and it’s tasty. I make a goat cheese-lentil crostini thing too.
What’s your favorite guilty pleasure food? I’ve got a sweet tooth. Anyone that knows me knows I enjoy eating sweets. I really do. I enjoy cake, cookies and that sort of thing. I like cake and ice cream. I love custard, that really dense ice cream. I like the Toll House chunky cookies. I put them in the oven and cook them [until they are] medium rare meaning that they are just about gooey. Then I take them out and 18 taste 2017
Broiled Grapefruit
BY RICKY MOORE OF SALTBOX SEAFOOD JOINT
Serves 2 1 or 2 grapefruit 2 Tbsp. honey 1/8 tsp. ground ginger 1/8 tsp ground cinnamon Banana, sliced Prepare oven for broiling. Position oven rack on top. Cut grapefruit(s) in half. Using a small serrated knife or grapefruit knife, loosen the grapefruit sections from the membrane. Place the grapefruit halves on a baking sheet or shallow baking pan. Drizzle grapefruit halves with honey. Place banana slices on top and flip once to coat both sides with honey. Dust with ground ginger and cinnamon. Place under broiler until bubbling and slightly browned in spots, about 4 to 6 minutes. Keep an eye on during broiling to avoid burning. Serve warm. l
HEALTHY CHEFS
Here’s to great people. Here’s to great brands. Whether celebrating big moments or enjoying quiet ones, Constellation Brands offers premium beer, wine and spirits to elevate life at every occasion.
cbrands.com
taste 2017 19
SEASONAL COOKING
Cooking for All Seasons We asked four chefs for a recipe inspired by our area’s bountiful produce P H OTO BY JA M E S ST E F I U K
22 taste 2017
SEASONAL COOKING
Spring Strawberry Shrub
BY SCOTT HOWELL OF NANA’S RESTAURANT
“A shrub is a sweet-and-sour fruit drink that can be mixed with alcohol or soda water for a refreshing beverage. We usually purchase an entire flat (or two) of strawberries from Lil’ Farm as soon as they are ripe and ready, but [I’ve] paired the recipe down for a smaller batch,” says Aubrey Zinaich-Howell, general manager of Nana’s Restaurant. 16 oz. fresh strawberries, hulled and quartered 1/2 cup turbinado sugar 1/2 tsp. Himalayan sea salt 1/4 tsp. crushed pink peppercorns 2 cups apple cider vinegar (I prefer kinds from Normandy with the “Mother” still intact) 1 quart-size wide mouth Ball jar Place the strawberries, sugar, salt and pepper into the Ball jar. Tighten the lid and shake all the ingredients to combine. Place the jar in the refrigerator for 24 hours, shaking the jar every time you remember to as you walk by or open the door. You will notice that an amazing red liquid starts developing from the strawberries as they macerate! After about a day, pour the strawberries into a bowl through a very fine mesh strainer. Slowly combine the apple cider vinegar with the strawberry syrup starting in ½-cup increments. You may not need the full 2 cups of vinegar. Adjust salt and sugar as needed. The mixture should have a strong vinegar flavor, but it should not be unpleasant. Put the mixture back into a clean Ball jar with a lid and store for at least 1 week before using. At this time, the vinegar flavor will combine with the fruit and become more mellow. You can serve it over ice in 1:1 ration of shrub to soda water with a lemon wedge for an amazing nonalcoholic beverage. Scott and I drink it like this at home all the time for all the benefits of the antioxidants in the strawberries and the health benefits of cider vinegar!
I also make a cocktail for my neighbors as follows: Shake together 1½ oz. blanco tequila, 2 oz. strawberry shrub, 1 oz. fresh lemon juice and crushed fresh mint, and pour over ice. Top with soda water or tonic water if you need it a little more sweet.
Summer Heirloom Tomato Soup
BY BRANDON SHARP OF CROSSROADS CHAPEL HILL 1 yellow onion, medium diced 1 bunch basil, tied with 4 sprigs of thyme and 4 of marjoram ¼ cup blended olive oil 2 cloves garlic, microplaned 5 overripe heirloom tomatoes, cored and cut into large chunks ½ Tbsp. salt 2 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil In a large saucepot, sweat onions with herbs in oil over medium-low heat until tender. Stir in garlic and quickly add tomatoes and salt. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for about 10 to 15 minutes or until tomatoes are broken down. Pour in balsamic vinegar, remove herbs and blend soup, pouring in extra-virgin olive oil. Serve hot.
Fall Woodfire Grilled Heritage Farms Pork Belly with Creamy Brussels Sprouts and Cranberry Sauce BY JASON SMITH OF HARVEST 18, CANTINA 18 AND 18 SEABOARD
Cut the pork belly about ½-inch thick and 4-inch long and throw them on the grill until crispy on the outside and creamy in the middle. CREAMY BRUSSELS SPROUTS 1/2 cup white onion, diced 1 Tbsp. fresh chopped garlic 4 cups chopped Brussels sprouts 2 cups heavy cream Salt and pepper to taste Cook onions and garlic until translucent. Add Brussels sprouts and heavy cream, mixing together, and add salt and pepper to taste. Cook down until Brussels sprouts are soft.
taste 2017 23
SEASONAL COOKING
CRANBERRY SAUCE 2 cups dried cranberries 1 cup red wine 1/4 sugar 1 Tbsp. rosemary Salt and pepper to taste Cook cranberries, wine, sugar and rosemary in a pot over medium heat until reduce by half. Puree in a blender and add salt and pepper to taste. To plate, put the pork belly on top of the Brussels sprouts. Drizzle the cranberry sauce around them both. PHOTO BY SARAH ARNESON
Winter Yellow Mustard Slaw
BY BILL SMITH OF CROOK’S CORNER
“This is my grandmother’s recipe. I love all kinds of slaw, and this one is a little quirky. Her original recipe called for milk, but I switched to heavy cream for a thicker dressing.” 1 small head of green cabbage (about 2 lbs.) 1 large carrot, peeled 4 Tbsp. yellow mustard ½ cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar 2 Tbsp. sugar 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. whole celery seeds Remove any tough or damaged outer leaves from the cabbage. Quarter the cabbage and remove the stalk. Coarsely grate the cabbage into a large mixing bowl. Grate the carrot into this. Whisk together the other ingredients and stir into the cabbage to coat it. Let sit for 15 minutes, then stir again. Taste for sugar and salt. Let rest for another 15 minutes at room temperature before serving. Will keep for several days in the refrigerator. l
24 taste 2017
Spring Produce Asparagus Broccoli Green peas Strawberries Turnips Cauliflower Mushrooms Radishes Lettuce Bok choy
Fall Produce Apples Beets Persimmons Pears Indian corn Kale Sweet potatoes Pumpkins Brussels sprouts Raspberries Snap peas
Summer Produce
Blueberries Melons (Honeydew, Cantaloupe, Watermelon) Okra Peppers Peaches Yellow Squash Sweet Corn Zucchini Cucumbers Tomatoes
Winter Produce Carrots Collards Cabbage Peanuts Spinach Rutabagas Parsnip Acorn squash Onions
SEASONAL COOKING
DINE DISCOVER EXECUTIVE CHEF THOMAS CARD
919.956.6760 CountingHouseNC.com Open Days A Week 111 N Corcoran Street, Durham, NC @CountingHouseNC
Located at
DURHAM
taste 2017 25
Primal’s Flourless Chocolate Torte
Giving Up Gluten Take it from two foodies who have been there – tasty restaurant options exist for those who have gone gluten-free
S
BY A P R I L M A R LOW R AV E L L I & R AC H E L R U VO P H OTO G R A P H Y BY SA R A H A R N E SO N
even years ago I was diagnosed with Celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder that, when gluten is ingested, causes damage to the small intestine. I finally knew why I was plagued with migraines and fatigue, but now I had no idea what to eat. Luckily, my husband and I moved to the Bull City five years ago. In an instant, my restaurant choices went from nonexistent to nearly anywhere. Chefs were making room at the table for diners like me! And what’s more, they were accommodating the diet concerns of my other friends as well. As chef Charlie Deal of Dos Perros put it, “It’s not my job to scrutinize what is and is not a 26 taste 2017
‘legitimate’ allergy or intolerance. It’s my job to see what reasonable steps I can take to include as many diets as I can in my restaurants.” With every new restaurant and food truck, it’s often hard to narrow down my favorite dishes. But here are a few of my top picks for delicious gluten-free and/or vegan dishes in the Bull City in no particular order:
Heavenly Buffaloes Gluten-free diners can enjoy most of the bone-in wings; my personal favorite is the salt-and-pepper dry rub. Vegans: Order their meatless take on wings, drenched in a variety of sauces.
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
Primal Chef Tim Lyons has created a must-try in south Durham for gluten-free diners, as you won’t find any gluten products on this menu! You can’t miss the Flourless Chocolate Torte with marinated cherries, fresh whipped cream and a homemade caramel sauce (also available at sister restaurant blu seafood and bar).
Luna Rotisserie & Empanadas Gluten-free diners must try the Patacon Pisao: Thinly sliced plantains are smashed and fried to create the “bun,” then filled with your choice of rotisserie meats (try the heritage pork), jicama kale slaw, jack cheese and chile-lime mayo. (Vegans, take advantage of Meatless Mondays, with new, rotating dishes – like chilled heirloom tomato and quinoa soup topped with cornmeal fried avocado and chayote salsa.)
City Kitchen This is our place that we pick for special family occasions. They have something for everyone and always bend over backward to help me with GF options. The main appeal for my family is the magical sushi. For me, it’s almost always the grilled hanger steak salad. It is perfectly cooked steak that is sliced and served with lettuce and balanced with creamy blue cheese and hearts of palm. Their risotto dish is also a great vegetarian option that changes seasonally and is so decadent you don’t miss the gluten or the meat.
Glasshalfull This tends to be our on-the-fly place to go for a quick date night or a nicer family meal. Without fail, we start with the Brussels sprouts – trust me when I tell you that this dish is transcendent. Their menu changes seasonally,
The Parlour For vegan diners with a sweet tooth, the Vegan Brownie has a delicious reputation. And gluten-free folks, don’t despair – you can get your scoops in a gluten-free cone!
Heavenly Buffaloes’ wings
Vegan Flava Café Vegan blogger Felicity Walston (tofuforthought.com) says the Curry Lentils – served with rice, kale and plantains – is one of her favorite dishes. She loves the combination of sweet and savory flavors.
Dos Perros With a dedicated fryer and rice flour in the kitchen, gluten-free and vegan diners can both rejoice over the Flautas Veganas: crispy corn tortillas stuffed with tender potatoes, poblano peppers, mushrooms, marinated cabbage and freshly made pico de gallo, topped with an incredible cashew “cream” and salsa verde. –April Marlow Ravelli
W
hen I was diagnosed with celiac disease in 2014, it stopped me in my tracks – the only treatment is a gluten-free (GF) diet. I needed to start from scratch and learn how to shop, cook and eat again. Factors that go into choosing a place where my family can eat include a knowledgeable and friendly staff, a good variety of gluten-free choices, fresh and interesting food, my 7-year-old’s approval (yes, really) and oh, did I mention a knowledgeable and friendly staff? Here are some of the places where our family dines out: taste 2017 27
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
Vegans will love The Parlour’s vegan brownie while gluten-free folks can get gluten-free cones.
The Fearrington House Restaurant When the time comes to really celebrate an occasion, our go-to is The Fearrington House Restaurant. In a time when we have become our own bank tellers, supermarket checkout clerks and gas station attendants, it harkens back to a time when civility and finery ruled and stellar service was a way of life. They are so careful with each dish and its preparation that I know I can safely enjoy each bite. The food is as beautiful as it is delicious and the meal is always a truly immersive experience.
Oakleaf
but they keep some of the staples including the sprouts. One of my favorites is the lobster rolls – they prepare them in an adorable lettuce cup and you really don’t miss the bread. I feel the need to also mention their cocktail list – they have a great margarita and several others that we have enjoyed. The bartenders are good about subbing in celiac-safe spirits (I’m looking at you, Tito’s and Hendrick’s). They too have a dedicated fryer and they usually have several GF desserts to choose from.
Moving on to date night! This is the place that my husband and I go to when we want a slow meal where we can enjoy a cocktail, catch up on nonkid conversation and really savor the food, the atmosphere and our time together. Their knowledge of and concern for dietary restrictions from the hostess to the chef and everyone in between is so reassuring it makes the whole meal easy and stress-free. Their creative use of local ingredients and commitment to fresh, in-season, sustainable food shines through each dish. If a restaurant were a warm hug, it would be Oakleaf. –Rachel Ruvo
Al’s Burger Shack We think this is the best burger joint in the area. They stick to what they are good at – burgers and dogs with pasture-raised meat. Even though it is always bustling, the staff takes the time to make sure everyone in the small space knows that they are handling an “allergy order” and they happily make my bunless burger. They do offer a GF bun, but I prefer to leave it off. Another huge check in the pro column for Al’s are French fries! Generally, places don’t have a fryer dedicated to gluten-free foods, but Al’s does. For me, French fries are the holy grail of comfort food and something I never knew I’d miss (but I do).
Venable Rotisserie Bistro We often go here for brunch as a family and the staff is top-notch. They are kind to my kids (which goes a long way) and careful with my order (which goes even further). My favorite dish, hands down, is the Cobb Salad with Rotisserie Chicken. The only menu items that might sway me from my precious Cobb are the herb-roasted eggs, which are so rich and decadent that I almost feel gluttonous eating it (almost), and the shrimp & grits, which are special. 28 taste 2017
Gluten-Free Dinner at Primal Food & Spirits Friday, April 21 Our first-ever gluten-free event! Join us for a three-course dinner by one of Durham’s most talented chefs, Tim Lyons of Primal and blu seafood, with cider pairings curated by Mattie Beason of Black Twig Cider House and dessert by Joe Parker of JP’s Pastry.
Taste 2017 is April 20-23. Check out this event and many more at
tastetheevent.com
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
taste 2017 29
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
Eat your
W
hile more eateries than ever have vegetarian and vegan offerings, here are just a few others in the area that do vegetables justice.
Chapel Hill
Cholanad Lime and Basil Living Kitchen Margaret’s Cantina Mediterranean Deli Sage Vegetarian Café The vegetarian lasagna is not to be missed! Vimala’s Curryblossom Cafe
City Kitchen’s risotto changes seasonally.
30 taste 2017
Vegetables! Durham
Blue Corn Café Beyù Caffè Bull Street Gourmet & Market Durham Co-op Market Foster’s Market Happy + Hale Try the Almond Brothers smoothie with chocolate almond milk and cocoa nibs! Oval Park Grille The Palace International Parts and Labor The Refectory Café Saladelia Wellspring Cafe, Whole Foods
Carrboro
Carrburritos Johnny’s Gone Fishing Oasis Provence Spotted Dog Restaurant & Bar Weaver Street Market
Raleigh
Aladdin’s Eatery The Fiction Kitchen You won’t believe it’s not really crispy-fried “chicken” and waffles! Neomonde l
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
DAMN GOOD FO OD
taste 2017 31
Perfect Pairings Two beverage experts share their best picks for three meals P H OTO BY JA M E S ST E F I U K
Japanese Lollipops BY ALEX CORDOVA OF KANKI JAPANESE HOUSE OF STEAKS AND SUSHI
FOR THE LOLLIPOPS 1 lb. lamb chops Salt and pepper to taste 1 recipe Japanese 7-spice sauce (see below) Garlic butter (use ready-made or mince 1 clove per ½ stick of butter) Sprinkle the lamb chops with salt and pepper then slightly brush the chops with the 7-spice sauce and let marinate overnight. To cook the lamb chops, heat pan using medium-high setting. Add about 2 tsp. garlic butter. Sear 3 to 4 lamb chops at a time (do not overload the
32 taste 2017
pan), cooking each side of the lamb chop for about 20 seconds; add more of the 7-spice sauce on top and continue cooking for an additional 15 seconds on each side. Serve medium-rare to medium. Enjoy! FOR THE 7-SPICE SAUCE 2 oz. Tamari soy sauce 3 cloves garlic, grated ½ Tbsp. ginger, grated 1 Tbsp. shichimi togarashi (Japanese chili pepper) 4 oz. brown sugar 0.2 oz. fresh basil, minced 0.5 oz. fresh cilantro, minced In a bowl, mix all the ingredients.
Pairings 7 Moons Red Blend “A juicy blend of red and black grapes that showcase the fruit with just enough tannins and oak for balance.”
Lonerider Brewing’s Sundance Grapefruit Saison “The newest seasonal beer from Lonerider is a great take on a traditional Belgian-style ale loaded with fresh grapefruit. Belgians love having their beers highly carbonated, which acts as a great palate cleanser for the tender meat, and the citrus quality from the grapefruit melds beautifully with the ginger and spices in the 7-spice sauce.”
WINE VS. BEER
Tequila and Lime Cured Salmon with Avocado Toast BY TIM LYONS OF BLU SEAFOOD AND PRIMAL
“My time at Gustaf Anders [Restaurant in Santa Ana, California] has had a lasting impression on me. We usually have some sort of cured fish on the menu at blu seafood.” FOR THE CURED SALMON 10 oz. fillet of salmon 1 cup tequila 1 cup sugar 3 cups kosher salt Half-bunch chopped cilantro 1 jalapeño, finely diced with seed Zest of 1 lime FOR THE AVOCADO TOAST 4 pieces toasted bread 1 ripe avocado 1 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil TOOLS Plastic wrap Aluminum foil Duct tape In a bowl, place salmon and pour tequila over fish. Refrigerate for 30 minutes. In a small bowl, mix sugar, salt, cilantro and jalapeño together. Take the salmon out of tequila and coat fillet with the lime zest. On a large piece of plastic wrap, pour a quarter of the sugar-salt mixture, then place the fillet, skin side down, on top of the salt mix. Pour the remaining salt mix over the salmon and press the mix to completely cover the fish. Wrap tightly with plastic wrap, then wrap it again. Wrap with aluminum foil and, in a circular motion, completely wrap the foil in duct tape. Then refrigerate. The idea is to put as much pressure on the fish as possible, therefore, allowing the cure to take place. Take out after 24 hours for a thin, tail piece or after 48 hours for a thick piece. Wash thoroughly under water to remove all salt. With a sharp knife, thinly slice the salmon. Simply smash a quarter of avocado on toasted bread. Repeat with the other three pieces. Place salmon on top of avocado toast. Drizzle olive oil on top.
Pairings Meiomi Rosé “Brand-new, dry-style rosé with vibrant acidity. Lush, opulent and rich with mouthwatering fruit flavors to blend with the richness of the salmon and hang with the tequila-lime flavoring.”
Epic Brewing’s Los Locos salted lime lager “With any light meat, you want to keep the beer light as well. With salmon, you need to go light, but also balance the oiliness of the fish with a beer that carries a strong enough bite, making most lager styles a great match. With this dish in particular, the citrus and salty notes of the beer blend with the lime zest and avocado in the dish to make a perfect match.”
Wine vs. Beer
PNC VIP Club at Durham Bulls Athletic Park
Saturday, April 22 Get ready for five innings of small plate pairings crafted by creative local chefs. It is up to you to decide if wine or beer goes best with each of the offerings. You will enjoy five separate selections of craft beers along with unique wines and hear from the experts on why each pairs better with that particular individual plate.
Taste 2017 is April 20-23. Check out this event and many more at
tastetheevent.com
34 taste 2017
WINE VS. BEER
Where SOUTHERN hospitality
8128 Renaissance Pkwy. #114
•
celebrates SEASONAL ingredients.
919.316.1818
18 Seaboard Ave. #100
•
919.861.4318
RALEIGH
DURHAM
CHEF-DRIVEN SOUTHWESTERN FOOD
433 Daniels St.
•
919.835.9911
3305 Village Market Place
•
919.694.5618
MORRISVILLE
RALEIGH 1 8 R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P. C O M
taste 2017 35
WINE VS. BEER
Wild Boar Osso Buco with Cannellini Bean Stew BY TONY DEL SARTO OF GLASSHALFULL
“This recipe is so flexible. I chose wild boar which adds a rich, slightly gamey flavor that really intensifies an already flavor-packed dish. But you can substitute veal, pork shank or lamb shank. The bean stew can be made as a delicious side, or on its own with a flavorful stock.” FOR THE WILD BOAR 4-6 wild boar shanks Salt and pepper 1 cup tapioca starch (or flour) 3 Tbsp. olive oil 1 onion, peeled and rough chopped 1 stalk rosemary and 1 small bunch thyme, tied together 3 cloves garlic 1 cup white wine Beef stock to cover Heat oven to 350 F. Pat dry boar and season with salt and pepper. Coat with tapioca starch to help with browning and thickening the sauce as it cooks. (We use tapioca to keep this dish gluten free.) In a roasting pan, add oil and brown both sides of boar. Remove boar from pan and add onion, rosemary and thyme bunch and garlic. Saute on medium-high heat until caramelized (slightly brown but not burnt). Add white wine and beef stock and bring to a boil. Return boar to
36 taste 2017
pan and cover. Place in oven and cook for 1 ½ to 2 hours or until tender. Remove boar from pan and strain liquid (discard solids and keep broth). FOR THE BEAN STEW 1 onion, peeled and diced 1 carrot, peeled and diced 1 celery stalk, diced 1 red bell pepper, diced 2 oz. olive oil 2 tsp. smoked Spanish paprika 2 bay leaves 1 stalk rosemary and 1 small bunch of thyme, tied together 2 cups cannellini beans, rinsed and soaked in cold water over night Vegetable stock or water to cover Salt and pepper 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar Add all ingredients except last three to a large pot. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Add beans and cover with water or vegetable stock. Bring to a simmer and cook uncovered for about an hour (or until beans are tender but not falling apart). Remove from heat. Season with salt, pepper and sherry vinegar to your taste. FOR SERVING This dish can be made in advance and actually taste better the next day. To serve, add beans, some broth from boar and boar to a sauce pan. Place in oven or on stove and heat until boar is tender again, about 10 minutes. Sauce will thicken up a bit during this process. Serve immediately in large bowl topped with fresh chopped parsley.
Pairings Boom Boom! Syrah “Fresh and supple with complexity and tannins inferior to none. Deep flavors of blackberry and boysenberry with notes of white pepper, savory herbs, crushed granite.”
Tröegs Independent Brewing’s Troegenator Double Bock “When I think about what beer to pair with a dish, I often like to first imagine other foods or ingredients that I might add to it. With this dish, the first thing that comes to mind is a rich, whole grain, artisan bread lightly toasted and used to sop up the stew. On the beer side, this makes a doppelbock the perfect match. Historically, doppelbocks were used by monks during fasting and referred to as ‘liquid bread,’ and Troegenator is a fantastic descendant of that tradition. Rich, malty and full-bodied, this beer stands up to the strength of the dish while blending with it the way a hearty broth soaks into the perfect bread.” l
Wine pairings BY MICHAEL HIGHSMITH, FIELD SALES MANAGER FOR CONSTELLATION BRANDS
Beer pairings BY ANDY MORRISON, DIRECTOR OF CRAFT BRANDS FOR HARRIS BEVERAGES
WINE VS. BEER
370 East Main St., #180 Carrboro, NC 919.617.1674 27510 esperanzanc.com
370 East Main St Carrboro, NC 919-240-5851 shoppemeatballkitchen.com
Coming Soon to Carrboro, NC onefishtwofishpoke.com
C AT E R I AVA I L N G ABLE
G O O S E H O S P I TA L I T Y N C . C O M
taste 2017 37
A portion of all proceeds will be donated to the East Durham Children’s Initiative
presented by
The Triangle’s largest food & drink event returns! april 20 - 23 Details and tickets at tastetheevent.com
From spirits and scallops to barbeque and bacon, TASTE 2017 mirrors our local food scene. Bold and dynamic, yet warm and inviting. Refined, but unassuming. Casually elegant.
16
0 Gr and Taste 2
Join us for four days of celebrating the area’s very best food and drink talent
We are pleased to announce that this year we’ll offer two Grand TASTE 2017 Experiences, featuring tastings from the very best local and regional talent: 18 Seaboard ACME Bacon Brothers Basan Sushi Bean Traders Black Twig Cider House Bleu Olive Bistro Blu Seafood The Boot Carolina Crossroads Cantina 18 Catering Works Chapel Hill Restaurant Group Counting House at 21c Museum Hotel Crook’s Corner Dashi Dos Perros Durham Catering Elaine’s on Franklin The Fearrington House Galloway Ridge Geer Street Garden Granary at Fearrington Guglhupf Harvest 18 Il Palio Juju Kitchen La Farm La Place Loaf Lucky’s Deli Mad Hatter Bakeshop Mama Dip’s Mateo Mothers & Sons M Sushi
Grand Thursday 4/20 6 pm Grand Regional Saturday 4/22 12 pm
Oval Park Grille Panciuto PICNIC Piedmont PinPoint Primal Provence The Restaurant at the Durham Hotel Rhubarb Royale Saladelia Saltbox Seafood Joint Scratch Toast Trilogy Restaurant Washington Duke Inn Watts Grocery Whole Foods ••• Authentique Vin Brothers Vilgalys Constellation Wines Durham Distillery Great Wagon Road Distilling Harris Beverages Mystic Bourbon Sam’s Bottle Shop Social House Vodka Sutler’s Spirit Co. ••• Alley Twenty-Six Tonic Big Spoon Roasters Boxcarr Handmade Cheeses Brood Soda Durham Toffee Fair Game Beverage Matthew’s Chocolates
Buy tickets now! tastetheevent.com
Our list is still growing! Check our site for current line-up.
Our Grand
2017 Experiences are just the beginning.
See what else we’re cooking up this year! Dinners & Tastings:
The Ultimate Gluten-free Dinner at Primal Food & Spirits Wine vs. Beer at PNC Club at the Durham Bulls Athletic Park Tacos y Tequila Night at Dos Perros Sunday Jazz Brunch at NanaSteak Salt & Smoke BBQ and Oysters at The Rickhouse
Classes & Demonstrations: Cider Class & Tasting with Mattie Beason of Black Twig Cider House The Seasonal Chef Class with Chef John May of 4-star Piedmont Whole Hog Barbecue Demonstration with BBQ Man Wyatt Dickson of PICNIC
Please note that some events have very limited seating.
Can’t wait to see you there!
april 20 - 23
presented by
and brought to you by
Our
Gen
e
ero
us S
pon
nat ill do w 7 1 of E 20 TAST portion the a o t ofits its pr
sor
s
en
Our G
Buy tickets now! tastetheevent.com
rs
e Partn s u o r e
Cook Local
A recipe for every occasion from the Triangle-based advertisers featured in this issue P H OTO G R A P H Y BY JA M E S ST E F I U K
Starters Thai Green Papaya Salad BY MAGGIE RADZWILLER OF COMFORT CUISINE
“This recipe is super fast, healthy and packed with clean, bold flavors. Also, it’s completely vegan! Not vegan? Add shredded chicken or shrimp.” Serves 6 1 Thai green papaya (about 2 lbs.), peeled, seeds removed and shredded 1 red bell pepper, thinly sliced 1 package shredded carrots 1 package shelled edamame 1 pint cherry tomatoes, sliced in half ½ cup sesame oil ½ cup rice wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. miso paste 1 inch-long piece fresh ginger, minced 1 Tbsp. chili oil (optional) 1 bunch washed cilantro leaves, roughly chopped Place Thai green papaya, pepper, carrots, edamame and tomatoes in a large bowl. Place the rest of the ingredients in a blender and blend until completely smooth. Toss dressing with vegetables just before serving.
42 taste 2017
L A
R É S I D E N C E
A Chapel Hill landmark since 1976,
La Residence offers an American inspired twist on classic French food. Join us for your next private or event dining experience. Parking right across the street at 140 West.
Bistro | Crepes | Fine Dining | Bar | Afternoon Tea | Special Events | Weddings | Lunch | Dinner
Downtown Chapel Hill Dinner Service: Tue - Sun, 5:30pm - 8:30
919.967.2506
202 West Rosemary Street
Lunch: 11:30a-2:30pm Th-Fri
LaResidenceDining.com
Special Event Times Upon Request
RECIPES
Smoked Trout with Lemon Creme Fraiche, Crispy Potatoes and Buttermilk Blini BY BRENDAN COX OF OAKLEAF AND ALBERELLO
“I really enjoy the versatility of this recipe. It can be used for individual canapes, as a first course or even a light lunch entree.” FOR THE TROUT Oil for frying potatoes 2 fingerling potatoes, sliced thinly into rounds on a mandoline 12 oz. smoked trout Juice of one lemon ½ lemon, segmented 1 cup creme fraiche Salt to taste 1 recipe blini (see below) ¼ cup cut chives Heat oil in a cast-iron skillet or table top fryer to 300 F. Carefully cook the potatoes until golden brown. Remove, drain and season. In a bowl combine the trout, lemon juice, lemon segments and creme fraiche, season with salt and reserve. In a skillet heated over medium heat, cook the blini, one at a time, making them about 4-inches in diameter. As they finish, reserve them and keep warm. Place the blini on individual plates and top with the trout mixture, then some chips and finally the cut chives. FOR THE BLINI 2 cups buttermilk 4 Tbsp. butter, browned with fresh thyme 2 Tbsp. creme fraiche 2 cups all-purpose flour 4 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. baking soda 2 tsp. salt 4 turns black pepper Combine all wet ingredients in one bowl and dry ingredients in a separate, larger bowl. Mix wet into dry gently. Reserve.
Foul Mudammas BY JAMIL KADOURA OF MEDITERRANEAN DELI
“Foul Mudammas is an Egyptian national dish. It is very popular and eaten with pita bread or over rice during breakfast or lunch.” 12 oz. dried fava beans, soaked overnight and boiled until tender ¼ bunch of chopped parsley 1 small tomato, chopped ½ jalapeño 1 tsp. chopped fresh garlic ¼ cup lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil Salt to taste Mix and serve. Preferred warm.
Squash Casserole MILDRED COUNCIL OF MAMA DIP’S
“Use either zucchini or yellow squash. Frozen squash may be used instead of fresh.” Serves 6-8 2 lbs. squash, washed and sliced (or 2 family packs – 1 lb. each – frozen squash) ¼ cup finely chopped onion 1 can (10 ½ oz.) chicken broth (or vegetable broth) 3 Tbsp. cornstarch ½ stick butter, cut into pieces 1 cup breadcrumbs, mixed evenly with 2 Tbsp. melted butter or margarine Put the squash and onion in a pot with very little water. Cover and cook, stirring often, until tender. Drain. Heat the broth in a small pot. Mix the cornstarch with a little water (enough to make a paste) and stir into the hot broth. Add the butter and cook until thickened. Combine the thickened sauce with the squash and pour into a 9-by-13 casserole dish. Sprinkle the buttered breadcrumbs on top. Bake in a 350 F oven on the lower rack for 40 minutes, until brown on top.
From MAMA DIP’S KITCHEN. Copyright © 1999 by Mildred Council. Used by permission of the University of North Carolina Press. uncpress.org
44 taste 2017
BURGER BACH
®
A New Zealand Inspired Gastro Pub
Gourmet Burgers are our Specialty New Zealand Grass-Fed Beef and Lamb Steamed Mussels • Sauteed Shrimp Roasted and Raw Oysters • Free-Range Chicken Vegetarian Options • Fresh-Cut Fries Fresh Salads • Southern Hemisphere Wines Seasonal Cocktails • 30 Craft Beers on Tap 16 Bach-Made Dipping Sauces
(919) 973-4416 THEBURGERBACH.COM THE SHOPS AT ERWIN MILL 737 NINTH STREET, DURHAM
Burger Bach - Durham
@BurgerBach
#BurgerBach
RECIPES
Piquillo Bisque with Goat Cheese Fondue and Garlic Chip Topping BY RICH CARTER OF CATERING WORKS
“Piquillo peppers are one of my favorite ingredients; they are versatile and a signature component of Spanish cuisine. The crispy garlic chip and creamy goat cheese toppings on this easy-to-make soup create a wonderful balance of flavor and texture.”
FOR THE BISQUE 1 red onion, sliced into thick rings 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2 cloves garlic, chopped 1 jar or can of piquillo peppers, drained and rinsed well 6 Roma tomatoes 1 ½ cups tomato juice ½ cup heavy cream 1 Tbsp. smoked paprika 1 tsp. salt (or to taste) ½ tsp. pepper (or to taste) 1 recipe goat cheese fondue (see right) 1 recipe garlic chip topping (see right) Grill the red onion slices, for about 1 to 2 minutes per side, to accentuate their flavor. In a small pot, add oil and saute the grilled onions, garlic and well-rinsed and drained piquillo peppers, until a rich depth is achieved. Add tomatoes and tomato juice and continue to simmer on medium heat for 30 minutes. Transfer contents of pot to a blender
46 taste 2017
or food processor and blend until smooth. Stir in heavy cream, smoked paprika and salt and pepper to your taste preference. Serve the soup with a dollop of the goat cheese fondue and a sprinkle of garlic chips. FOR GOAT CHEESE FONDUE ¼ lb. chevre (goat cheese), room temperature ½ cup heavy cream 1/8 tsp. salt (or to taste) 1/8 tsp. pepper (or to taste) Using goat cheese at room temperature, place in a double boiler and stir until smooth on low heat. Whip the remaining heavy cream until stiff peaks form. Fold the goat cheese into the whipped cream and stir until well incorporated. Add salt and pepper to your taste preference. FOR GARLIC CHIP TOPPING 4 cloves garlic 1 ½ cups milk, divided 1 Tbsp. olive oil Slice garlic into thin, chip-like slices. In a small pot, add ½ cup milk and cook the garlic until it comes to a boil, strain and repeat boiling the garlic in the milk in ½-cup increments 2 more times (this helps to remove the pungent bitter taste of garlic and aids in the frying process). Dry them on a paper towel. In a saute pan, add olive oil and bring to medium-low heat, place the garlic into the pan and saute until crisp. Drain.
W h e r e
K i t c h e n
D e s i g n
I s
A
F i n e
A r t
RECIPES
The Kitchen Specialist
3407 University Drive, Durham • 919.490.4922 www.thekitchenspecialist.com
Fine Design & Cabinetry taste 2017 47
RECIPES
BLUE DOGWOOD PUBLIC MARKET A community of small food businesses who celebrate local and regional food bluedogwood.com
OPE SPRIN NING in DowG 2017
Chapentown l Hill Wed-
CHOCOLATAY CO N FE C TI O N S is a familyowned candy company offering a variety of handmade and all-natural chocolates and confections that you can feel good about.
S OU L COCINA draws inspiration from its Latin American roots to create plant-based culinary options, such as tamales, sweet potato & plantain empanadas, and pasteles de yucca.
Sun, 1 1a-8p
P IZ Z EL L E B A K ER Y makes gluten-free traditional sweet and savory Italian recipes with a Southern flair, such as torta caprese with chocolate & pecans, and focaccia with pimento, bacon, & mascarpone spread.
FEAT UR ED VENDORS The Bar at Blue Dogwood bluedogbeer.com
Left Bank Butchery leftbankbutchery.com
Sangha Tea Bar sanghatea.com
Chocolatay Confections chocolatayconfections.com
Pizzelle Bakery pizzellebakery.com
Soul Cocina soulcocinatriangle.com
Other market vendors offer local seafood, vegan soul food, fresh juice & smoothies, and more.
306 W Franklin St, Chapel Hill
48 taste 2017
919.717.0404
Free Parking on Site
drink some bean beantraderscoffee.com
PHOTO BY PASCAL MONMOINE
RECIPES
Mains Oysters Rockefeller Casserole BY ANDY WILSON OF SQUID’S
“This delicious Rockefeller dish is great for parties when you don’t have individual oyster shells on hand or prefer a different presentation.” Serves 12 ½ cup white wine 1 ½ pints freshly shucked oysters, save liquor (juice) 1 tsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 cup heavy cream 2 star anise seeds 1 lb. frozen chopped spinach, strain excess water 3 garlic cloves, diced 6 green onions, chopped (plus some for serving) ¼ cup Parmesan ¼ cup fresh parsley 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted Salt and pepper to taste 1 pinch cayenne 1 cup fresh breadcrumbs, divided Heat oven to 425 F. In a sauce pan, reduce white wine, oyster liquor, Worcestershire sauce, cream and star anise by 70%, to a thicker consistency. Remove star anise seeds. Let mixture cool and add spinach, garlic, green onion, Parmesan, parsley and melted butter. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne, then add half the breadcrumbs and mix well. In a 9-by-12 casserole dish, put spinach mixture in the bottom evenly with the oysters on top, then top with remaining breadcrumbs. Bake for 20 minutes, or until center is hot and crumbs are golden brown. Serve with green onions.
50 taste 2017
Mujadara (Lebanese Lentils and Rice) BY DAVID WIMMERS OF SALADELIA
“Mujadara is yummy when served with a side of plain Greek yogurt or fattoush salad! It is also gluten-free and vegan.” 2 cups green lentils 2 cups water, divided ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 3 medium red onions, chopped ¾ cup basmati rice Kosher salt 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced In a saucepan, place lentils and fill with enough cold water to cover them. Bring pan to a boil over medium heat, then turn down to a simmer and cook until the lentils are tender but not mushy. Drain and set aside. In a large skillet heat ¼ cup olive oil over medium-high heat, add the chopped onion, sprinkle with a dash of salt and cook until they turn dark caramel brown, stirring often. Add ¼ cup of water to the onions and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the rice, the cooked lentils and the remaining water. Season with salt, cover and lower the heat to simmer and cook for about 30 minutes. The water should be completely evaporated. In a skillet heat ¼ cup of olive oil, add sliced onion and fry until crispy, using a slotted spoon remove the onions to a paper towel-lined plate. Serve on a platter topped with the crispy onion.
LOCAL FLAVORS S AT U R DAY a n d S U N DAY B R U N C H
C H A P E L H I L L R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
Restaurant & Oyster Bar
C H R G
C AT E R I N G
919-323-2748 Catering Private Dining
Catering Menu at ChapelHillRestaurantGroup.com
MEZ CONTvvvEMPORARY MEXICAN
LOCAL Favorites
S Q U I D ’ S OY S T E R H A P P Y H O U R 4 - 6
RECIPES
Wafu Pasta (Japanese-style Bacon and Mushroom Pasta) BY TOSHIO SAKAMAKI OF BASAN
“With the business that surrounds our lives, this dish is a good one to have on hand for a quick and delicious meal.” 2 servings dry spaghetti 2 Tbsp. olive oil, plus some for boiling pasta water 3 cloves garlic, chopped 4 slices bacon 3-4 mushrooms, sliced ¼ bunch spinach, washed and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
52 taste 2017
2 Tbsp. sake 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. butter Parmesan, grated 2 green onions, chopped Boil pasta for 15 minutes in a lot of water with salt and oil, then strain. Heat saute pan over medium heat. Add olive oil, then put in chopped garlic, bacon and mushroom to cook. Add spinach, then sake, soy sauce and butter. Add pasta when spinach is cooked and toss well. Put on plate. Add grated Parmesan and chopped green onion on top.
RECIPES
Lamb Burger BY SAM PAPANIKAS OF BLEU OLIVE MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO
“For your next grill out, this is a quick and easy burger to impress your friends. The combination of the beets and goat cheese make it a simple, yet sophisticated meal.” Serves 4 1 1/3 lbs. ground lamb 1 shallot, minced and sauteed in olive oil 1 tsp. minced garlic 1 tsp. cilantro, chopped 1 tsp. oregano Salt and pepper to taste 4 oz. goat cheese 1 red onion, sliced 1 ½ Tbsp. red wine vinegar, divided 2 large red beets, boiled, peeled and sliced 1 ½ cups baby arugula 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for searing burgers 4 brioche burger buns Heat a fry pan or outdoor grill. Mix lamb with shallot, garlic, cilantro and oregano as well as salt and pepper to taste. Form into 4 thick patties. Sear with a little olive oil in pan or grill to desired doneness. (I prefer medium-rare.) Separate goat cheese into 4 portions and roll each into a ball. Place between two pieces of parchment paper, and press to flatten with the bottom of a flat plate. Toss red onions with 1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar, salt and pepper. Season the sliced beets with ½ Tbsp. red wine vinegar, salt and pepper. Toss the baby arugula with 2 tsp. olive oil. Toast the brioche buns. On the bottom portion of the bun, lay the goat cheese, then top with beets, baby arugula and lamb burger. Top with red onions and top portion of bun. Serve.
54 taste 2017
Broccoli Rabe and Fennel Sausage Pizza BY JOHN CAPPELLETTI OF CAPP’S PIZZERIA
“This is a highly popular pizza at our restaurant with flavors that are incredibly satisfying … the bitter greens, garlic, chili flakes and the savory sausage are the quintessential Italian flavor combination.” ½ lb. (about ½ bunch) broccoli rabe 1 qt. vegetable stock 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 2 Tbsp. garlic, chopped ½ tsp. red chili flakes ½ cup Italian sausage, cooked and crumbled 4 oz. mozzarella Pizza dough Pecorino Romano Salt and pepper Semolina for dusting Heat oven to 450 F with a pizza stone for 1 hour. Trim 2-inch bottoms off broccoli. Blanch broccoli rabe in vegetable stock for 2 minutes then shock in ice water. When cool, drain well and set aside. Heat olive oil in saute pan, add garlic and chili flakes and cook on medium heat until garlic is almost turning brown, remove from heat. Transfer broccoli to bowl and pour hot garlic chili oil over broccoli, toss to coat and combine, season with salt and pepper. Transfer broccoli to cutting board and cut into 1-inch pieces. When oven is heated, stretch pizza dough to a shape of your liking and transfer to a pizza peel (or a rimless sheet pan) dusted with semolina. Top pizza dough with broccoli, sausage, mozzarella, pecorino and a drizzle of olive oil. Place pizza on stone and bake until golden brown and delicious (about 10 to 15 minutes). Buon appetito!
The pig
on the roof watches over Chapel Hill’s Franklin Street. It’s here at Crook’s Corner Café and Bar
that Bill Smith created the Southern schnitzel Cheese Pork, Fish-In-Paper, incomparable Fried Oysters, wellknown Honeysuckle Sorbet and much more. Crook’s continues Bill Neal’s Shrimp & Grits, Hoppin’ John, Jalapeno-Cheddar Hushpuppies, Persimmon Pudding and other favorites. Crook’s is the only James Beard “America’s Classics Award” winner where the chef has also been a finalist for Best Chef Southeast (twice!). Dine inside or at the bar or on the bamboo garden patio. Reservations accepted, walk-ins welcome. 610 W Franklin St Chapel Hill, NC
919.929.7643 crookscorner.com
Chef Bill Smith
RECIPES
FOR THE CHICKEN 6 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of any fat 1 recipe brine (see below) 1 recipe breading mix (see below) Canola oil In pan or bag of brine, add chicken thighs and marinate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. Heat canola oil in a fryer or Dutch oven to 350 F. Pull chicken out of the brine and put into breading mix. Coat both sides, pressing the flour into the chicken. Gently drop the chicken into the oil and cook for 10 minutes or until thermometer reads an internal temperature of 165 F. FOR THE BRINE 1 cup apple cider vinegar 1 cup white vinegar 2 cups water 2 Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. black pepper 1 bunch fresh dill 2 cloves garlic, mashed with knife 1 pinch red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. brown sugar
Carolina Hot Chicken Sandwich BY MEGAN AYERS OF WHOLE FOODS TRIANGLE
“I grew up in the mountains of Saluda, North Carolina. I moved to the Piedmont area as an adult and gradually developed a taste for vinegar-based sauces. This recipe combines my new love of vinegary sauces with the savory fried chicken and buttered bread I grew up on.”
Serves 6 FOR THE SANDWICH 1 recipe chicken (see right) 6 hamburger buns (preferably brioche) 1 recipe sauce (see right) Sliced pickles and slaw (optional) Place cooked chicken thigh (prepared with brine and breading mix) on bun and top liberally with sauce. Serve with pickles and slaw if desired.
56 taste 2017
Combine all brine ingredients into a pan or large resealable bag. FOR THE BREADING MIX 3 cups all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. salt 1 tsp. garlic powder 1 tsp. black pepper 1 tsp. paprika ½ tsp. cayenne pepper Combine all ingredients into a pan. Stir together with a fork to aerate. FOR THE SAUCE 1 cup apple cider vinegar ¼ cup water ½ tsp. salt 1 pinch black pepper 1 pinch red pepper flakes 2 Tbsp. ketchup 1 dash hot sauce (such as Tabasco, Frank’s or Cholula) 1 tsp. brown sugar 1 dash Worcestershire sauce Combine all ingredients in a pot. Simmer for 10 minutes. The sauce should be slightly reduced and thickened.
Global Culinary Adventures Half the experience of traveling around the world can be summed up in a word: FOOD. In fact, 51% of leisure travelers are in search of interesting cuisines and a memorable meal while on vacation. Celebrity Chef, Anthony Bourdain’s culinary travelogues show how far passion for good food can take you, when travelling: do it for the food! Sound’s great, but what about those of us who can’t always get away?
How about a FOODCATION? Yes! Bon Appetit from the corners of the globe – Buon appetito!, Kuidore, Kalí óreksi! A cultural oasis of flavors are waiting for you at the 2017 Culinary Adventures series by Catering Works, the Triangle’s top caterer. Enjoy full course dinners with optional wine and cocktail pairings, at their new venue The Laurelbrook.
Catering Works is now accepting reservations for the 2017 Culinary Adventure Series
Aesop’s Table June 1 Orient Express Aug 3
Mangia Bene Sept 7 A Night in Paris Nov 2
RESERVATIONS: 919.828.5932 TheLaurelbrook.com
Your passport to the next culinary adventure is available at TheLaurelbrook.com
Grilling Out
at Ponysaurus 24
Go West
this Fall 30
Practically Modern
in Duke Forest 40
All that Jazz
at Beyù Caffè 80
durham September 2016 durhammag.com
JUST TRYAN IT
YOUTH TRIATHLON 42
4
We G et t o
How Did
ats from 13 Bake tible Tre ries 7 resis 2 • • Ir 6G lut en -Fr ee an d
s ands T hforueaders o oted! v
CONTINUING CAR
RETIREMENT 48 COMMUNITYEDIR ECTORY 120
JULY/AUGUST 2016 CHAP ELHI LLMAGAZI NE.COM
V
76 ove ill L uW Yo es sh Di an eg
be the Fo od ies tC it
he nt yi
?5 uth So
SKYWATCHING VIA
MOREHEAD PLANE TARIUM
ta and Rose’s Meat Guglhupf’s peach crosta ons crème brûlée macar Market & Sweet Shop’s goods scrumptious baked – just a couple of the featured inside! Page 72
co ng rat s to
Kitchen on 4 awards! ( incl uding best french food )
Ful ll of ist
2 win65+ ne
rs,
beg on innin pag g e 52
CHAPELHILL
M A G A Z I N E
BRINGING YOU SCRUMPTIOUS FOOD CONTENT EVERY MONTH, REFLECTING OUR AREA’S AWESOME CULINARY SCENE!
TO SUBSCRIBE ($38 FOR TWO YEARS), GO TO DURHAMMAG.COM OR CHAPELHILLMAGAZINE.COM
ART FOR ANY TASTE Locally operated, GreatBigCanvas.com offers a vast selection of art, ranging from stunning photography to beautiful abstracts, and even classic masterpieces. With over 700,000 images to choose from—including tools to create your own personalized artwork—we’re confident you’ll find something to complement your home or business. www.GreatBigCanvas.com
TAKE 50% OFF
YOUR ENTIRE ORDER use coupon code:
TASTE50
Offer expires May 31, 2017
RECIPES
Bacon and Collard Dumplings
Cochinita Pibil (Mexican Pork)
BY MIGUEL GORDILLO OF JUJUBE
BY GILBERTO ORDONEZ OF DOS PERROS
8 oz. bacon, finely chopped ¼ cup garlic, finely chopped 1 bunch collards, leaves stripped from stems 2 lbs. ground pork 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced ¼ cup ginger, finely chopped ¼ cup oyster sauce 50 or so thick, white round dumpling wrappers Soy sauce (for dipping) Rice vinegar (for dipping) Cooking oil In a pan large enough to hold all ingredients, render bacon on medium heat. Once slightly browned, add garlic, then collards and cook until collards are wilted and liquid released from greens is mostly gone. Allow to cool and squeeze a bit to remove any extra liquid. It doesn’t need to be super dry. Chop entire mixture. Toss in ground pork, scallions, ginger and oyster sauce. Mix thoroughly. You should have enough to make about 50 dumplings. Any extra can be frozen. Place small, walnut-size ball of filling in middle of wrapper. Wet the edge of wrapper with water and fold together, pinching pleats into edge. Continue this until all dumplings are wrapped. (Dumplings can also be frozen in this state by laying out on a sheet pan in the freezer overnight. Once frozen, then can be put into a zip-close bag.) Bring pot of water to boil and drop in dumplings (in small batches of 8 or so), and cook for 3 minutes if fresh, 5 minutes if frozen. Remove from water and drain. Heat 2 Tbsp. cooking oil in nonstick pan and fry dumplings until desired brownness. Serve with 3:1 mixture of soy sauce and rice vinegar to dip.
Serves 4 FOR PORK 2 lbs. pork butt 1 recipe marinade (see below) 1 package banana leaves 1 recipe pickled onion (see below) Warm tortillas (for serving) Completely cover the pork in marinade. Let sit overnight in refrigerator. Heat oven to 350 F. Rinse banana leaves and line roasting pan with them. Place pork in middle, pour extra marinade on top, fold up leaves around pork and roast for 3 hours. When pork is done, shred with fork and serve with pickled onion and warm tortillas. FOR MARINADE ¼ cup water 1 tsp. diced habanero pepper 2 tsp. salt 2 Tbsp. diced chipotle peppers 1 tsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. achiote paste 2 Tbsp. guajillo pepper paste 1 ½ Tbsp. fresh orange juice 1 tsp. white vinegar 1 dash oregano 1 pinch black pepper 2 cloves garlic Blend all ingredients together and set aside. FOR PICKLED ONION ¼ cup red wine vinegar Juice of 1 orange 1 Tbsp. salt 1 medium red onion, sliced 1 habanero pepper, sliced (optional) Bring red wine vinegar, orange juice and salt to boil, and pour over onion and pepper.
60 taste 2017
Defining the Mediterranean Diet Leading the Way to a Gluten-Free Life
BEST OF INDY 2010 - 2016 CONSISTENTLY RANKED TOP CATERER IN THE TRIANGLE VOTED BEST CATERER IN CHAPEL HILL 2011 - 2016 VOTED BEST CATERER BY CHAPEL HILL MAGAZINE 2011-2016 919.967.2666
410 West Franklin Street, Chapel Hill
mediterraneandeli.com catering@mediterraneandeli.com MEDITERRANEAN MARKET NOW OPEN!!
WINNER
BEST OF CHAPEL HILL 2016
Now Serving Freshly Pressed Juices and Coffees from the Carrboro Coffee Roasters
RECIPES
Cioppino Fish Stew
Walnut Prawns
BY MICK CARROLL OF RADIUS
BY MICHAEL CHUONG OF ELEMENTS
“I love this recipe because it reminds me of my home in Ireland with all the fresh seafood. Of course, it also brings me back to San Francisco where I grew so much as a chef. Plus, it’s a one-pot meal that feeds a lot of people.”
“This is a twist of a classical dish from China. I added Dijon mustard for more depth in flavor. In all our dishes, there is a fusion of East meets West that only accentuates the ingredients. The walnut prawns put us on the map.”
Serves 4-6 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 large yellow onion, finely diced 3 cloves garlic, chopped ¼ cup tomato paste 1 cup dry white wine 2 lbs. ripe Roma tomatoes, seeds removed and coarsely chopped 1 red bell pepper, seeds removed and diced finely 2 bay leaves 2 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, stems removed and chopped 3 cups fish stock or canned clam juice Sourdough bread, brushed with extra-virgin oil and grilled or toasted. ½ lb. fresh clams 2 lb. crab such as Dungeness or Alaskan king (use crab in the shell to boost flavor, using blue crab or crab claws) ½ lb. fresh mussels ½ lb. fresh halibut or salmon 1 lb. large shrimp in the shell, butterfly to remove vein (leave the shell on for more flavor) ½ lb. scallops ¼ cup fresh basil, chopped In a deep 12-inch skillet, saute onion until translucent. Add the garlic and cook under medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes. Add tomato paste to onions and garlic. Let cook for about 4 to 5 minutes. Add white wine and scrape off sediment from the bottom of the pan. Reduce the liquid by half. Add tomatoes, peppers, bay leaves, parsley and thyme. Cook for 5 minutes and then add fish stock or clam juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Start grilling or toasting bread. Add clams to mixture and cook until they open. Then add the crab and let cook about 5 minutes. Then add the mussels, fish and shrimp. Cover and cook for 3 to 5 minutes. Mussels should open and shrimp should be pink. Add scallops and stir until everything is incorporated. Let the cioppino cook for another 3 to 5 minutes. Serve in a large, shallow bowl and finish with basil and grilled sourdough bread.
62 taste 2017
1 cup mayonnaise 1 oz. Dijon mustard 2 oz. honey Sriracha, to taste Salt and pepper, to taste Vegetable oil, for frying 24 shrimp, peeled and deveined Cornstarch Walnuts, for garnish Jasmine rice (follow directions on bag/box) Combine mayo, mustard, honey, Sriracha, and salt and pepper in a mixing bowl. Mix well. Heat oil, lightly dust shrimp in cornstarch and fry until golden brown. In a separate bowl, toss shrimp in honey glaze until coated. Top with walnuts (toast them for more flavor). Serve with rice.
Ravioli alla Napoli with Fresh Tomato Pink Cream Sauce BY VINCENZO MARRONE OF ITALIAN PIZZERIA III Serves 4 2 Tbsp. butter 4 Tbsp. pancetta 4 Tbsp. ham 4 Tbsp. grilled chicken 1/2 tsp. salt 1/2 tsp. pepper 4-5 cherry tomatoes, chopped 1 tsp. parsley, chopped 1 qt. heavy whipping cream 3 Tbsp. fresh marinara sauce 2 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan 12 large ravioli, with cheese or your favorite filling 1/4 cup fresh basil, chopped In a medium saucepan over medium heat, saute pancetta, ham and chicken in butter. Add salt and pepper, then stir in tomatoes and parsley. Add whipping cream, stirring occasionally for 6 to 7 minutes until it starts to bubble. Stir in marinara sauce until it bubbles. Add Parmesan and stir for 4 minutes until it thickens. Gently mix in your favorite ravioli and let cook for 5 minutes more until pasta is cooked. Garnish with fresh basil.
RECIPES
Vegetarian Chili BY LEE DAVID WHITSEL OF THE MAD HATTER’S CAFÉ & BAKESHOP
“This chili is great for a family gathering. Serve in a terrine with all the condiments set as a buffet, and let your guests decide what they want.” ½ cup dry black beans ¼ cup dry white beans ¼ cup dry kidney beans ¼ cup diced celery ½ white onion, diced ¼ cup diced green bell pepper 1 Tbsp. oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 6 ½ cups vegetable stock, unsalted (or water) 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 Tbsp. chili powder 2 tsp. salt Pepper and hot sauce (optional) Sour cream (for serving)
64 taste 2017
Monterey Jack cheese (for serving) Fresh avocado (for serving) Pico de gallo (for serving) First, quick soak your dry beans (black, white and kidney) by bringing to boil 1 qt. water in a large sauce pan. Meanwhile, pick and rinse beans. Add dry clean beans to pot of water. Turn off heat and leave on stove for 30 to 45 minutes. Drain in strainer and set aside. Place pot back on medium-high heat and saute celery, onion, and bell pepper with 1 Tbsp. of oil until lightly brown and translucent, stirring constantly. Add garlic and continue to cook for another minute. Then add vegetable stock or water and turn up heat to bring to a simmer. Once simmering, add soaked beans, cumin and chili powder. Bring mixture back to simmer. Once simmering, reduce heat to low and continue to simmer uncovered until beans are tender (about 1 ½ hours). Let cool for 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper or hot sauce for a kick. Serve with sour cream, Monterey Jack, avocado slices and pico de gallo.
RECIPES
Brisket Tacos
Seafood Brodetto
BY J. “DAVID” PERAZA-ARCE OF GONZA TACOS Y TEQUILA
BY ROB KINNEEN OF THE BOOT
FOR THE TACOS Corn tortillas Poached brisket (recipe below) Salsa Mexicana (recipe below) Habanero Pico (recipe below) When you’re ready to assemble, warm the tortillas in a hot skillet. Lightly saute shredded beef with the salsa. When tortillas are warm, place the beef on top, then the pico and serve. FOR THE BRISKET 3 lbs. brisket, trimmed of fat 1 white onion 4 garlic cloves 2 bay leaves Salt to taste 2 tsp. black peppercorns In a pot, place the brisket and cover with water. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for 3 hours. Keep an eye on the water level – needs to be above the meat at all times. When brisket is tender, take off the heat and cool in its liquid undisturbed. When cool, shred meat. FOR THE SALSA MEXICANA 1 16 oz. can crushed tomatoes ½ red onion, diced ½ tsp. garlic powder ¼ tsp. cumin ½ cup pickled jalapeño, pureed Salt to taste ¼ cup pork lard Combine all ingredients except lard, then fry the salsa with the lard. FOR THE HABANERO PICO 2 Roma tomatoes, finely diced ½ habanero chile, seeded and finely chopped 5 small radishes, cut in matchsticks ½ red onion, finely diced Juice of ½ orange Juice of ½ lime Kosher salt Chopped cilantro Mix together and set aside.
66 taste 2017
Serves 4 1 lb. fresh shrimp ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish 1 medium carrot, diced small 3 celery ribs, diced small 1 small yellow onion, diced small 1 small fennel bulb, diced small 12 garlic cloves, sliced very thin 1 can whole peeled San Marzano tomatoes 2 Tbsp. salt 1 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper 2 tsp. red chili flakes 12 oz. fresh North Carolina tuna 12 oz. calamari, sliced in rings Salt and pepper to taste 16 fresh mussels 20 fresh littleneck clams Italian parsley, chopped Bread (for serving) Peel and devein the shrimp. Save the shells and place them in a pot with 2 qts. of water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 45 minutes to make a simple shrimp stock. Strain and set aside. In a large pot, heat the olive oil until it shimmers. Add carrots, celery, onion, fennel and garlic and saute 8 to 10 minutes over medium heat until lightly browned. Add reserved shrimp stock. Crush the canned tomatoes by hand and add them to the broth and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper and red chili flakes. Simmer for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Season shrimp, tuna and calamari with salt and pepper. Saute in olive oil over very high heat until just cooked. Add mussels and clams to the stew and simmer until they open. Remove from heat. Serve the soup at once, garnishing with the cooked shrimp, calamari and tuna and a little more extra-virgin olive oil and Italian parsley. Serve with good crusty bread.
SEASONAL FRESHLY GOOD SEAFOOD.
COOKED.
608 NORTH MANGUM STREET, DURHAM
FISH.
THAT’S THE HOOK!
919.908.8970 SALTBOXSEAFOODJOINT.COM
2ND LOCATION OPENING IN THE ROCKWOOD NEIGHBORHOOD 2637 DURHAM-CHAPEL HILL BLVD, DURHAM
| COOKING SOON!
RECIPES
Crabcakes on Smoked Gouda Stone Ground Grits with Roasted Corn and Green Tomato Relish BY DAVID VOELZ OF GALLOWAY RIDGE
“This dish is one that absolutely reflects our geography while shunning the stigma of ‘typical Southern cuisine.’” FOR THE CRABCAKES ¼ cup shallot, diced small ¼ cup green bell pepper, diced small 4 Tbsp. canola oil, divided 1 lb. pasteurized crab claw (or other grade depending on your budget) 1 Tbsp. lemon juice ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 tsp. Dijon mustard ½ tsp. Old Bay seasoning Pinch cayenne pepper 1 large egg Panko breadcrumbs, as needed Salt and pepper, to taste Saute the shallot and green pepper in 1 Tbsp. of oil until translucent. Allow to cool to room temperature. Be sure to feel through the crab to ensure no shell was missed in processing. Mix all ingredients together. The moisture content of crab is different depending on processor and grade. Add just enough breadcrumbs to hold the mixture together.
“If you’re on a budget, add a little extra breadcrumbs to stretch the recipe for a better yield. But you didn’t hear that from me!” Portion cakes into consistent sizes depending on your application. We use 1 oz. for appetizers and 3 oz. for entrees. Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat and add 3 Tbsp. oil. Cook the cakes for about 3 minutes on each side, depending on thickness until golden brown. With a thicker crabcake, lower the heat slightly and cook a little longer.
68 taste 2017
FOR THE SMOKED GOUDA GRITS 3 cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock or water) 1 cup stone ground grits ½ cup smoked Gouda, finely grated ¼ cup heavy cream Salt and pepper, to taste Bring stock to a boil, then slowly whisk in the grits. Lower to a simmer and cook for approximately 15 minutes stirring occasionally. Add cheese and cream with a whisk to ensure it is thoroughly dispersed. Add salt and pepper to taste. Grits can be held covered at a low temperature, stir occasionally to prevent scorching. Check the consistency before serving. Add some hot stock if the grits are too thick for your preference. FOR THE ROASTED CORN AND GREEN TOMATO RELISH ½ cup corn, fresh or frozen off the cob 1 Tbsp. canola oil 2 green tomatoes, diced medium 1 Tbsp. shallot, diced small 1 Tbsp. lime juice 2 Tbsp. rice wine vinegar 1 Tbsp. cilantro, chopped Pinch cumin Salt and pepper, to taste To assemble the relish, toss the corn and oil together. Cook on a baking pan at 350 F, until the kernels start to brown. Stir often. Allow to cool at room temperature and mix with the other relish ingredients thoroughly. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to allow the flavors to marry. This can be made the day before to allow for a more developed flavor. TO SERVE We plate the grits first in a small circle. Lay the crabcakes over the grits and top with relish. Enjoy!
bleu
live
Mediterranean
Bistro
1821 Hillandale Road, Durham
919.383.8502 • bleuolivebistro.com bleuolivebistro @bleuolivebistro
Private Dining Room Now Open for Dinner • Outdoor Seating
RECIPES
Pan Seared Scallops with Sweet Potato Puree
Balsamic Chicken with Mushrooms and Thyme
BY OSCAR GNAPI OF LA RESIDENCE
BY JULIE STEINHAUER OF BULL CITY OLIVE OIL
“Many people seem intimidated by cooking scallops, so I wanted to share one of my easy scallop recipes to demonstrate how simple it is to cook and enjoy them at home.”
“The nice part of this recipe is that you can choose whatever flavor options you like with the oil/ vinegar, depending on what you feel like on any given night. Spice it up with Bull City Olive Oil’s harrisa olive oil and blueberry balsamic.”
2 sweet potatoes 1 portobello mushroom 6 u/10 scallops (or another size of your choice) Salt and pepper Extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup unsalted butter, divided Rinse and peel sweet potatoes. Place potatoes in pot of cold water, cook on high heat for at least 25 minutes or until very soft. While potatoes are cooking, prep your other items. Slice portobello mushroom. Remove any side muscle from the scallop, rinse under cold water and pat dry with paper towel. Set both in fridge until sweet potato puree is ready. When potatoes are cooked, drain the water and put into a mixing bowl (make sure it is not shallow). Use electric mixer to beat until potatoes are pureed. Add 2 Tbsp. of unsalted butter, 2 Tbsp. of extra-virgin olive oil, a pinch of black pepper and 1/8 tsp. salt. Mix again until butter is melted. Pass mixture through a mesh strainer to remove the fibers and set aside. Take scallops from the fridge and season with a little salt and pepper on both sides. Make sure saute pan is hot and then add 4 Tbsp. extravirgin olive oil and then 1 Tbsp. butter. When butter is melted, add your scallops (flat side down) in the pan for at least 2 to 3 minutes until golden brown. Flip over and repeat. When finished place a napkin on a plate and rest the cooked scallops for 30 seconds to remove excess liquid. Saute sliced mushrooms in a hot pan with a little extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper until golden brown on both sides. Again, place on a napkin to remove excess liquid and oil. Plate as you like and enjoy.
70 taste 2017
Serves 4 1 1/2 lbs. boneless skinless chicken breasts Salt and pepper, to taste 2 tsp. Bull City Olive Oil’s “Herbs de Provence” olive oil (or garlic olive oil) 2 garlic cloves, minced 8 oz. mushrooms, sliced (we like cremini) 1/2 cup low sodium chicken broth 2 1/2 Tbsp. Bull City Olive Oil’s “Mission Fig” dark balsamic vinegar (or a traditional 18-year balsamic) 1/2 tsp. fresh thyme, chopped 1 Tbsp. fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped (for serving) Rice, cheese grits or quinoa (for serving) Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and sear on both sides until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the chicken and set aside. Add the garlic and mushrooms to the skillet and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until mushrooms begin to soften. Add the chicken broth, balsamic vinegar and thyme to the skillet. Stir and scrape any browned bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken and let simmer for 10 to 15 minutes on low heat or until chicken is fully cooked. Serve over rice (every day), cheesy Parmesan grits (decadent) or quinoa (healthy), along with roasted asparagus in the spring or root veggies in the winter. Finish with a drizzle of “Herbs de Provence” olive oil and flat leaf parsley.
6900 Rocky Ridge Rd., Hillsborough 919.960.5535 mapleviewfarm.com Tours: 919-942-6122 mapleviewagcenter.com
i
j
RECIPES
Achiote Pork Carnitas BY BRYAN KOWALSKI OF ESPERANZA EMPANADAS Y TEQUILA, THE SHOPPE BAR AND MEATBALL KITCHEN AND ONE FISH TWO FISH
“Every day is a good day for carnitas.” 3 oz. dried guajillo chilies ½ cup julienned yellow onion 1/3 cup whole garlic cloves 1 ½ Tbsp. olive oil blend 3 oz. achiote paste 2 cups white vinegar ½ qt. chicken stock ½ Tbsp. kosher salt 1 bay leaf
5 lbs. pork butt, cut into 4-inch cubes (do not trim) Heat oven to 350 F. Soak the guajillo chilies in hot water for 20 minutes to rehydrate. Discard liquid. In a large pot, saute yellow onion and garlic in oil over medium heat until onions are golden brown. Add rehydrated chilies, achiote paste, vinegar, chicken stock, salt and bay leaf. Bring mixture to a boil. Remove from heat and puree until smooth. In a large baking dish, add pork chunks and pureed liquid, being sure to coat pork fully. Roast, uncovered for 2 1/2 to 3 hours. Remove pork from baking dish and shred, adding a little of the pan drippings for taste.
Sauteed North Carolina Shrimp
Braised Beef Short Ribs
BY KACI WALKER OF JUJU
BY JERMAINE PENNY OF CAROLINA 1663
2 Tbsp. lemongrass 2 Tbsp. shallots 2 Tbsp. garlic ½ Tbsp. lime zest 2 oz. sake 2 oz. sugar 2 oz. fish sauce 1 oz. water 1 ½ oz. lime juice 3 Tbsp. olive oil 4 cloves garlic, sliced 2 kaffir lime leaves 1 Thai chili, sliced 12 North Carolina shrimp, peeled and deveined 3 Tbsp. butter Toasted baguette for dipping Mix lemongrass, shallots, garlic, lime zest, sake, sugar, fish sauce, water and lime juice in a bowl until sugar is dissolved. In a nonstick skillet, heat olive oil, add sliced garlic, lime leaves and dried chilies. Cook until lime leaves and garlic become aromatic and start to change color. Add the shrimp and immediately add lemongrass mixture. Once sauce is reduced by one-third, add the butter. Continue cooking until sauce is slightly thickened but still a broth. Serve with toasted baguette.
72 taste 2017
“These ribs are so good! I love them with homemade fried potato cakes.” 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour (for coating and thickening), divided 2 tsp. salt 1 pinch ground black pepper 1 cup tomato paste 1 cup red wine 2 Tbsp. vegetable or blended oil 4 lbs. beef short ribs 3 onions, roughly chopped 3 celery stalks, roughly chopped 6 carrots, roughly chopped 1 garlic clove, minced In a bowl, combine 1 cup flour, salt and black pepper. Roll the ribs in the seasoned flour and set aside. In another bowl, combine tomato paste, red wine and 1 cup of water. Stir until smooth and set aside. In a large pot, heat oil and brown the ribs well on all sides and then remove. In same pot add onions, celery, carrots and garlic and caramelize. Add tomato and wine mixture, then 2 cups of water and stir until smooth. Add ribs and reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 1 ½ hours. When ribs are tender, remove and strain liquid. Dissolve 1 ½ Tbsp. flour and 2 Tbsp. water for every one cup of liquid remaining in pot. Add mixture to pot and stir well until thickened. Pour this over ribs.
359 Blackwell St. Durham NC BasanRestaurant.com
RECIPES
Your personal caterer
Chef /Owner Maggie Radzwiller Personalized event planning/catering Weddings • Corporate catering Parties • Personal chef Bold & flavorful foods Artful presentation Exemplary service for 2 to 200 Locally sourced ingredients Specializing in all ethnic cuisines as well as vegetarian, vegan & gluten free
919.225.2556 comfortcuisine.us 74 taste 2017
COME DRINK THE BULL
AT DURHAM’S ORIGINAL CRAFT CIDERY! SEASONAL CIDERS • BARREL AGED CIDERS • SMALL BATCH CIDERS
305 S. ROXBORO STREET, DURHAM, NC 27701
BULLCITYCIDERWORKS.COM
RECIPES
Farmstead Chicken Burger BY KYLE AMANDOLIA OF BURGER BACH FOR EACH BURGER Bun 1 oz. sun-dried tomato balsamic vinaigrette (recipe right) 1 oz. arugula, tossed with vinaigrette 1 oz. mozzarella cheese 6 oz. chicken patty (boneless, skinless chicken thigh seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked) 1 tomato slice 1 oz. basil pesto
Serves 8-10 FOR THE SUN-DRIED TOMATO BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE 8 sun-dried tomatoes 5 1/3 Tbsp. raw sugar 1 tsp. salt 2 tsp. tarragon leaves 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar 2/3 cup olive oil In a sauce pan, add sun-dried tomatoes and fill with water until the tomatoes are covered. Bring to a boil, and then simmer for 20 minutes. Save ¼ cup of the liquid and add with tomatoes into a blender, along with other ingredients, except the oil. Blend at medium speed slowly adding oil until vinaigrette is emulsified.
Drinks & Desserts Espresso Soda
Ode to Henry
BY DAVID CHAPMAN OF BEAN TRADERS
BY JENNIFER SALOME OF COUNTING HOUSE
“This is a great go-to beverage for someone who craves a soda, but doesn’t want all of the artificial junk that comes along with drinking a soda. We first made this beverage as a drink special 14 years ago and called it ‘The Rocket.’ Now it is on our menu board.”
“This new addition to our cocktail list is a play on a Manhattan for rum and bourbon drinkers alike. It’s spirit forward, with a touch of earthy agricole balanced by the caramel notes of the bourbon and vermouth. At Counting House, we’re using a rhum agricole made locally in Pittsboro.”
Ice 8 oz. sparkling water (LaCroix or Perrier preferred) 1-2 Tbsp. vanilla simple syrup (depending on your preference of sweetness) 3 Tbsp. brewed espresso (best results) OR 4 Tbsp. strongly brewed coffee or cold brew 2 Tbsp. half-and-half or milk (optional) Fill a 16 oz. cup halfway with ice. Pour in sparkling water. Put in simple syrup and stir. Pour in coffee or espresso and do not stir. Pour in half-and-half (if using) and do not stir.
76 taste 2017
1.5 oz. rhum agricole 0.5 oz. Old Forester bourbon 1 oz. Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Angostura bitters Orange (for garnish) Combine rhum agricole, bourbon and vermouth in a pint glass and add ice. Stir until properly diluted. Strain into a “Nick and Nora” glass. Add two dashes of Angostura bitters. Garnish with a large orange swath.
Specialty Olive Oils ~ Vinegars ~ Provisions ~ Pastas ~ Gifts Weddings ~ Corporate Gifts ~ Special Occasions ~ Private Tasting Parties
Historic Brightleaf Square • 905 W. Main St Suite 20-I, Durham, NC
bullcityoliveoil.com
RECIPES
PHOTO BY SARAH ARNESON
Brown Butter Almond Brownies BY KELLY TAYLOR OF BLUE DOGWOOD PUBLIC MARKET AND PIZZELLE BAKERY
“This easy recipe is gluten-free and versatile. Make it your own by throwing in a handful of anything from chopped nuts to chocolate chips.” 1/2 cup unsalted butter 1/2 cup unsweetened cocoa 1 cup sugar 2 eggs 1 tsp. vanilla ¼ tsp. almond extract 1/2 cup almond flour 2 Tbsp. cornstarch
78 taste 2017
1/2 tsp. baking powder 1/2 tsp. sea salt Heat oven to 350 F. Grease a 9-inch square pan. Make brown butter: Add unsalted butter to a small saucepan and cook, gently swirling the pan, over medium-low heat. In about 5 minutes, the butter will turn a deep golden brown and smell nutty. Take off heat and let cool. In a separate bowl, combine the cooled melted butter and cocoa, stirring to combine. Add sugar, eggs, vanilla and almond extract. Mix until smooth. Whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt in a bowl. Add to cocoa mixture and stir to combine. Spread into the prepared baking pan and bake 30 minutes.
Bringing Chapel Hill Tradition to your table
WINNER
Thank You for Voting Us the Best of Chapel Hill for Comfort Food and Southern Food!
BEST OF CHAPEL HILL 2016
Meats • Chicken • BBQ/Ribs • Chicken & Dumplings Vegetables • Casserole • Brunswick Stew Gumbo
Hours M-Sat 8am-9:30pm • Sun 8am-9pm
Breakfast items include Pork Chops • Chicken & Gravy • Catfish Chicken & Waffles • Fried Green Tomatoes Sweet Potato Pancakes & Biscuits
Country breakfast served daily M-F till 11am • Sun till 1pm Sat & Sun Brunch 11am - 2pm Follow Us on
408 W. Rosemary St., Chapel Hill 942-5837 mamadips.com
RECIPES
crafted spirits from the american south 80 taste 2017
COMING THIS SUMMER
RADIUS
112 N. Churton Street Downtown Historic Hillsborough 919.245.0601
Eclectic Comfort Cuisine Woodfired Brick Oven Pizza Full Bar Event Catering
Book our private Fireside Room for any special occassion! wedding receptions & rehearsal dinners baby & wedding showers birthdays & anniversaries business meetings & luncheons
radiuspizzeria.net • kate@radiuspizzeria.net •
RECIPES
Maple View Farm Ice Cream Cookie Sandwiches BY ALLISON NICHOLS AND FARMER BOB NUTTER OF MAPLE VIEW FARM ICE CREAM INGREDIENTS 1 package of store-bought cookie dough 1 ½ gal. Maple View Farm vanilla ice cream TOOLS Baking sheet Ice cream spade, large metal spoon or spatula Slightly underbake cookies for 14 minutes at 350 F, or until just set. Cool them for no more than 5 minutes. They
82 taste 2017
should still be quite hot, but just firm enough to handle. Take your ice cream out of the freezer. Do not remove your ice cream from the freezer until this moment. It should still be quite hard. Here’s an important part of the process: Shave your ice cream in long strips, not in big round balls. You want chunky, thin blocks or strips. Construct the sandwich. Don’t spread or scrape the ice cream onto the cookie. Gently lay your thin strips in layers (quickly now!). Press another cookie on top. Eat your sandwich and enjoy!
3 IN 4 PEOPLE AGREE*
DURHAM IS A GREAT PLACE TO
LIVE, WORK & PLAY
AND WE THINK
EAT, TOO! DURHAMNC.GOV *2015 RESIDENT SATISFACTION SURVEY
RECIPES
Dark Chocolate Salted Pecan Tart BY LESLIE ECKERT OF THE ART INSTITUTE OF RALEIGH-DURHAM 1 ¾ cups pecans, chopped and divided 1 tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ½ cup unsalted butter, room temperature ¼ cup sugar 2 large egg yolks 8 oz. semisweet chocolate, chopped ¾ cup heavy cream Preheat oven to 350 F. Spread pecans on a rimmed baking sheet and toast, tossing once or twice, until fragrant, about 6 to 8 minutes. Let cool completely. Set aside. In a medium bowl, blend together ½ tsp. of kosher salt, flour and cocoa powder. Set aside. Using an electric mixer, beat the butter and sugar on medium-high speed until creamy, about 2 to 3 minutes. Beat in the yolks and then scrape the sides of the bowl. Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually add the flour mixture. Mix until combined but still crumbly. Press the dough into the bottom and up the sides of a greased 4-by-14 pan or 9-inch round tart pan. Line with a large piece of parchment paper, leaving an overhang on all sides, and fill with dried beans or pie weights. Chill for 30 minutes. Place the pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the edges of the crust are dry, about 20 to 22 minutes. Remove the parchment paper and beans and bake until dry and set, about 10 to 12 minutes more. Let cool completely. Meanwhile, place the chopped chocolate in a large bowl. In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a simmer and pour over the chocolate and let stand 1 minute. Stir gently until the mixture is smooth. Stir in 1 ½ cups of the pecans. Pour the mixture into the cooled tart shell and sprinkle with the remaining pecans and kosher salt. Refrigerate until set, at least 1 hour.
Moscow Bull BY RYAN BOGARD OF BULL CITY CIDERWORKS
“Turn your Moscow Mule into a Moscow Bull by subbing ‘Rhize Up’ for ginger beer. This is one of our favorite ciders based on its versatility. It’s hard to find a bad pairing, but our preference is with Asian-inspired dishes. Specifically, we suggest busting out the hoisin sauce and red pepper for some Asianglazed sockeye salmon.” Ice 2 parts Bull City Ciderworks’ “Rhize Up” cider 1 part vodka Squeeze of lime Fill Moscow Mule mug with ice. Pour cider and vodka over ice. Squeeze lime and stir.
Sofie-mosa BY ANDY MORRISON OF HARRIS BEVERAGES
“‘Sofie’ is a Belgian-style farmhouse ale that is aged in white wine barrels with hand-zested orange peel. Tart and dry, ‘Sofie’ has notes of spicy white pepper, a hint of orange peel and a creamy vanilla finish. Pair with brunch favorites such as eggs Benedict.” 2 parts Goose Island Beer Company’s “Sofie” ale 1 part fresh-squeezed orange juice Pomegranate seeds Mix ale and orange juice. Drop in pomegranate seeds.
Conniption Specialino BY BJÖRN NORDWALL OF SOUTHERN SEASON
“This cocktail highlights my favorite summer flavors, and, best of all, I got the chance to highlight an excellent North Carolina-crafted gin.” 1.5 oz. Durham Distillery “Conniption” gin 0.5 oz. Aperitivo Cappelletti 0.75 oz. lime juice 3 drops Angustura bitters In a rocks glass, add all ingredients over ice. Stir to combine and garnish with a lemon twist. l
84 taste 2017
Start a new chapter PREPARE FOR A CREATIVE CAREER YOU’LL LOVE
We offer programs in
Design Media Arts Fashion Culinary
For a complete list of programs, visit us online at: ArtInstitutes.edu/Raleigh-Durham Call us to get started: 888.245.9593 The Art Institute of Raleigh-Durham, a branch of Miami International University of Art & Design is one of The Art Institutes, a system of schools throughout North America. Programs, credential levels, technology, and scheduling options vary by school and are subject to change. Not all online programs are available to residents of all U.S. states. Several institutions included in The Art Institutes system are campuses of Argosy University. The Art Institute of Raleigh-Durham, a branch of Miami International University of Art & Design Š 2017 The Art Institutes. All rights reserved. Our email address is materialsreview@aii.edu. See http://aiprograms.info/ for program duration, tuition, fees and other costs, median debt, salary data, alumni success, and other important info
A RO
C
A
L I N
con
uthe ary so tempor
in r n c u is
e
cuisine • private parties • weddings
breakfast • lunch • dinner • lounge private rooms available from 4 to 40 people
Dine at Carolina 1663,
which features cozy booths, a sleek bar and video system to allow guests to watch the game in high-def. These elements create a casual, yet high-energy atmosphere that is perfect for dinners, family gatherings, client cocktails, and more.
Located At Sheraton Chapel Hill Hotel
919.969.2157 •
• 1 Europa Dr, Chapel Hill, NC carolina1663.com
Hours: Mon. - Sat. 6:30am - 10pm • Sunday 7am - 9pm • Lounge: Daily 12 noon - 11pm
FOOD EVENTS
Eat. Drink. Be Merry.
You won’t want to miss out on these annual food (and drink)-centric events P H OTO G R A P H Y BY SA R A H A R N E SO N
Triangle Restaurant Week Every January & June
Triangle Wine Experience
trirestaurantweek.com
trianglewineexperience.org
Twice a year, this weeklong celebration of culinary excellence has participating restaurants offering special three-course menu options and fixed pricing, creating a great opportunity for residents and visitors alike to indulge in the finest cuisine in the area.
In its 25th year, this experience includes a grand gala, auction in Raleigh and dinners that pair the hottest Triangle restaurants with some of the world’s finest wines.
88 taste 2017
February 1-3, 2018
FOOD EVENTS
Science of Wine Usually held in February
Beer & Bacon Fest
lifeandscience.org
beerandbacon.com
Wine, science, food and fun. You won’t want to miss out on this wine, cheese and chocolate-filled evening at Durham’s Museum of Life and Science.
“Bottoms up, bacon down” in Cary with 75 craft beer options and 10 bacons from across the country, plus 15 restaurants offering tastes.
Bull City Food & Beer Experience
Cocktails and Cosmonauts
bullcityexperience.com
Held at the Durham Performing Arts Center, the event features food samples from 35 of Durham’s finest restaurants and beer tastings from 35 breweries.
For adults only, this popular event features tastes from local distilleries, mixologists and restaurants, while visitors tour the galaxy and engage in friendly competition at the Museum of Life and Science’s Launch Lab.
World Beer Festival Raleigh April 1, 2017
Piedmont Farm Tour
worldbeerfestival.com
carolinafarmstewards.org/pft
Plenty of samples at the N.C. State Fairgrounds, plus beer appreciation, explorations of brewing methods and information on selecting beers to enhance a culinary experience.
Load up a car with your friends and family this Earth Day weekend, choose the farms you’d like to visit and get out in the countryside to meet sustainable farmers and sample local foods.
Usually held in March
April 8, 2017
April 20, 2017
lifeandscience.org
April 22-23, 2017
TASTE 2017
April 20-23, 2017 tastetheevent.com Presented by Chapel Hill Magazine, Durham Magazine, Chatham Magazine and Johnson Lexus, this four-day celebration of food and drink kicks off its fourth year with the Grand TASTE Experience at the Durham Armory, with tastings from the best local chefs, artisan and beverage purveyors on Thursday. The rest of the weekend is filled with delicious events from a Whole Hog Barbecue Demonstration, to a Wine vs. Beer pairings competition, to the Ultimate Gluten-Free Dinner (complete with cider pairings!) at Primal. TASTE 2017 will also feature a second Grand TASTE, a lunchtime affair on Saturday, which will be a celebration of regional culinary and beverage talents. A portion of the proceeds support the East Durham Chil-
dren’s Initiative. Stay updated with events and food news by following on Twitter & Instagram – @tastetheevent! taste 2017 89
FOOD EVENTS
Durham Blues & Brews May 20, 2017
Bull City BBQ Classic
durhambluesandbrewsfestival.com
bullcitybbqclassic.org
Twelve-ounce pours from North Carolina’s best breweries, plus nationally known musicians and on-site food trucks come together to support Durham’s Exchange Family Center.
Sample barbecue from all over Durham and beyond in this tasting competition, hosted at The Scrap Exchange, where the participants determine the champion.
NC Fresh Catch Raleigh Usually held in May
Pork, Pickles and Peanuts
ncfreshcatch.com
dukehomestead.org
Raleigh’s leg of this statewide concert series is held in May and features all things fresh – seafood, music and beer – in celebration of local farms, fisheries and the arts.
Celebrate North Carolina food culture and history with this extremely tasty event including barbecue and pie contests, plus face painting, crafts, games and raffles at Duke Homestead.
Farm to Fork Picnic June 2-4, 2017
Beer, Bourbon & BBQ Festival
farmtoforknc.com
beerandbourbon.com
Don’t miss special dinners and events before the weekend culminates on Sunday with chefs and farmers partnering to create outstanding food pairings at Fearrington Village.
Beer, bourbon, music, cigars and barbecue. Admission includes a sampling glass for “all-youcare-to-taste” sampling of beer and bourbon at this Cary fest.
90 taste 2017
June 3, 2017
July 22, 2017
July 28-29, 2017
FOOD EVENTS
PROUD PARTNER OF FINELY CRAFTED BEVERAGES With a nine-county sales territory running from Pittsboro to Lake Gaston, the Harris Beverages portfolio includes over 50 local, regional, national and international brands of beverages. Harris Beverages is the only Durham-based beer wholesaler and is proud to call the Bull City home.
taste 2017 91
FOOD EVENTS
Triangle VegFest
Aug. 26-27, 2017 trianglevegfest.com Moving to Durham this year, Triangle Veg Fest is a two-day event including a lineup of presenters discussing the benefits of a plant-based lifestyle, followed by a host of vendors at the Durham Armory.
Pepper Festival September 24, 2017 pepperfestnc.org
Taste an abundance of pepper-themed dishes and drinks at Briar Chapel for this 10th annual event. Festival goers enjoy live music, DIY workshops, kids’ activities and the crowning of the Pepper Fest King & Queen.
TerraVita
October 18-21, 2017 terravitaevent.com
Sustainable food and drink is the focus of this multiday festival held in Chapel Hill. There will be a classroom series, a grand tasting and multiple dinners showcasing chefs, beverage producers and food artisans from across the Southeast.
Bull City Race Fest & Food Truck Rodeo October 22, 2017
bullcityracefest.com
Run one mile, five miles or a half-marathon – then restore your energy with a downtown Durham food truck rodeo and beer garden.
NC Fresh Catch Durham Usually held in September
A Tasteful Affair
ncfreshcatch.com
rmhch.org
Durham’s leg of this statewide concert series held at Durham Central Park in September features all things fresh – seafood, music and beer – in celebration of local farms, fisheries and the arts.
Eat, drink and give at this annual foodie event featuring over two dozen of the finest dining and beverage establishments from around the Triangle. Held at the Blue Zone at Kenan Stadium on UNC’s campus, this evening of tastes and sips benefits Ronald McDonald House of Chapel Hill.
Science of Beer September 14, 2017 lifeandscience.org
Samples and science: get the answers to your brewbased questions and explore hands-on learning activities at Museum of Life and Science in Durham’s after hours event.
World Beer Festival Durham October 14, 2017
worldbeerfestival.com
Plenty of samples in downtown Durham, plus beer appreciation, explorations of brewing methods and information on selecting beers to enhance a culinary experience.
92 taste 2017
November 5, 2017
MUCH ADO ABOUT CHEESE
November 12, 2017 Cheese it up at The Rickhouse at this event hosted by American Meltdown food truck featuring samples galore from local and regional farmers and creameries.
TxotxFest
Usually held in November blacktwigciderhouse.com/txotxfest
The Southeast’s first cider festival put on by Black Twig Cider House in Durham returns for its second year where attendees will taste ciders from North Carolina, the east coast and Europe, alongside cider cocktails and culinary pairings. l
FOOD EVENTS
Life’s Too Short For Fake Pizza
THIS IS THE REAL DEAL
Artisan Hand-Crafted | Wood-Fired Local, Farm-Fresh Ingredients DECIDE FOR YOURSELF
Located at Veranda at Briar Chapel 79 Falling Springs Drive Chapel Hill, NC 27516
919.240.4104 WWW.CAPPSPIZZERIA.COM
taste 2017 93
Foodie Fun
a collection of culinary-centric experiences and entertainment P H OTO G R A P H Y BY SA R A H A R N E SO N
BIKER BAR NC
This 14-person bicycle uses its riders, who can bring along wine or beer, for power while a bike captain steers. Perfect for team building, birthdays or bachelor/bachelorette parties. Tours begin and end at Bull City Burger and Brewery. bikerbarnc.com
C’EST SI BON! COOKING SCHOOL
Cooking classes, baking classes and culinary travel for individuals, families and kids both in Chapel Hill and in France. cestsibon.net
THE COOKERY
A state-of-the-art commercial food production facility that’s also an event space known for hosting everything from weddings to Duke vs. UNC basketball watch parties to seated dinner parties. New expansion includes private cobblestoned garden and bridal suite. durhamcookery.com
DURHAM CENTRAL PARK
Signature events include food truck rodeos and Meals from the Market. durhamcentralpark.org
DURHAM SPIRITS COMPANY
Sign up for cooking and mixology classes like “French Bistro Brunch” and “Spring Dinner Party.” durhamspiritscompany.com
FEARRINGTON VILLAGE
Eateries include sophisticated cuisine at The Granary; wine, coffee and sandwiches at The Goat; and the seasonal Roost Beer Garden. Foodies will especially love the Cooks & Books series, which has attracted superstar cookbook authors such as Thomas Keller and Vivian Howard. fearrington.com 94 taste 2017
MIDWAY COMMUNITY KITCHEN
This community/commercial kitchen offers cooking classes and hosts pop-up markets and community dinners. midwaycommunitykitchen.com
SNAP PEA UNDERGROUND
Themed dinner events (featuring multiple creative courses) sourcing from seasonal produce that are presented in unique settings around the Triangle. The locations are kept secret until just days before the event, and tickets usually sell out within an hour of their release. snappeacatering.com
SOUTHERN SEASON
A destination for finding specialty food items, the gourmet retailer also has a restaurant (The Weathervane) and a cooking school. southernseason.com
TASTE CAROLINA GOURMET FOOD TOURS
Go behind the scenes to chat with chefs and artisans and enjoy delicious food during these culinary walking tours hosted in cities and towns across North Carolina: Raleigh, Durham, Chapel Hill/Carrboro, Hillsborough, Greensboro, Winston-Salem and Wilmington. tastecarolina.net
TOBACCO ROAD TOURS
In addition to various pub crawls and bar walks in Durham and Raleigh (including a haunted option), the company offers culinary and culture walking tours in both locations, as well as a Raleigh craft cocktail tour. tobaccoroadtours.com Guests at Snap Pea Underground’s “Yam Yai: A Thai Street Food Pop-Up” enjoyed a multi-course meal at Midway Community Kitchen.
FOOD EVENTS
taste 2017 95
FOOD EVENTS
Chapel Hill resident and cookbook author Sheri Castle’s cooking classes at Southern Season regularly sell out. She weaves together stories with helpful tips and leaves attendees, including her regulars, in stitches.
TRIANGLE FOOD TOUR
A casual-yet-educational way to sample food from a cross section of locally owned restaurants throughout Chapel Hill and Durham as well as Raleigh and Cary. trianglefoodtour.com
Our Farmers’ Markets
Hillsborough • Saturdays, 8am-noon (April-Oct.), 10am-1pm (Nov.-March); 919-618-6069; hillsboroughfarmersmarket.org
CHATHAM COUNTY CHATHAM MILLS FARMERS’ MARKET
ORANGE COUNTY
480 Hillsboro St., Pittsboro • Saturdays, 8amnoon (April-Oct.), 10am-1pm (Nov.-Jan.); chathammillsfarmersmarket.com
CARRBORO FARMERS’ MARKET
FEARRINGTON FARMERS’ MARKET
301 W. Main St., Carrboro • Saturdays, 7am-noon (April-Oct.), 9am-noon (Nov.-March); Wednesdays, 3-6pm (April-Nov.); 919-280-3326; carrborofarmersmarket.com
CHAPEL HILL FARMERS’ MARKET
201 S. Estes Dr., Chapel Hill • Saturdays, 8amnoon (April-Nov.), 9am-noon (Dec.-March); Tuesdays, 3-6pm (April-Nov.); 919-533-9496; thechapelhillfarmersmarket.com
ENO RIVER FARMERS’ MARKET
144 E. Margaret Ln., Hillsborough • Saturdays, 8am-noon (April-Oct.), 10am-noon (Nov.-March); enoriverfarmersmarket.com
HILLSBOROUGH FARMERS’ MARKET Hillsborough Campus, 430 Waterstone Dr., 96 taste 2017
2000 Fearrington Village Center, Pittsboro • Tuesdays, 4-6pm (April-Thanksgiving); 919-923-6262; fearringtonfarmersmarket.com
PITTSBORO FARMERS’ MARKET
Main Street Station, 287 East St., Pittsboro • Thursdays, 3-6pm (year round); pittsborofarmersmarket.org
DURHAM COUNTY DURHAM FARMERS’ MARKET
Durham Central Park, 501 Foster St., Durham • Saturdays, 8am-noon (April-Nov.), 10am-noon, (Dec.March); Wednesdays, 3:30-6:30pm (mid-April-midOct.); 919-667-3099; durhamfarmersmarket.com
FOOD EVENTS
taste 2017 97
FOOD EVENTS
DURHAM ROOTS FARMERS’ MARKET Northgate Mall, 1058 W. Club Blvd., Durham • Saturdays, 8am-noon (April-Nov.), 919-451-6688; durhamroots.org
DUKE FARMERS’ MARKET
Duke Medical Center, behind Searle Center, Durham • Fridays, 11am-2pm (April-Sept.) Duke Regional Hospital, Employee Entrance • Tuesdays, 3-6pm (May-Sept.); hr.duke.edu/wellness/farmers-market
SOUTH DURHAM FARMERS’ MARKET
Greenwood Commons Shopping Center, 5410 N.C. 55, Durham • Saturdays, 8am-noon (April-
Oct.), 9am-noon (Nov.-March); 919-903-1670; southdurhamfarmersmarket.org
DURHAM DISTILLERY
711 Washington St., Durham • Behind-the-Scene
tours: 4 and 6pm on Saturdays and most Friday evenings; Quick Tours: Friday evenings from 6-9pm and during open Saturday hours from 3-7pm; 919-937-2121; durhamdistillery.com FAIR GAME BEVERAGE CO.
220 Lorax Ln., Ste. 15, Pittsboro • Fridays, 6pm;
Saturdays, 1:30pm and 3pm; Sunday, 12:30pm; 919-245-5434; fairgamebeverage.com FULLSTEAM
726 Rigsbee Ave., Durham • Saturdays, 1pm and 2:30pm; 919-682-2337; fullsteam.ag
HONEYGIRL MEADERY
105 Hood St., #6, Durham • Saturdays, 2pm,
Brew & Spirit Tours
3pm and 4pm for tours and Sundays, 1-5pm for tastings; 919-399-3056; honeygirlmeadery.com
BELTLINE BREW TOURS (Durham tour includes Bull City Burger and Brewery, Ponysaurus Brewing Company and Fullsteam. Also offers Raleigh tours.) Saturdays, 11:11am; 919-285-1228; beltlinebrewtours.com
MYSTERY BREWING CO.
BROTHERS VILGALYS SPIRITS CO. 803 D. Ramseur St., Durham • Thursday–Friday, 6pm, and 2-5pm, Saturdays; 919-617-1746;
1212 N. Mineral Springs Rd., Durham • Saturdays, 1pm, 3pm and 5pm; whatismystic.com
brothersvilgalys.com
BULL CITY BURGER & BREWERY 107 E. Parrish St., Durham • Saturdays, 4pm; 919-680-2333; bullcityburgerandbrewery.com BULL DURHAM BEER CO. 409 Blackwell St., Durham (also find pours at The Bullpen, 135 Blackwell St.) • Open during Durham Bulls baseball season; bulldurhambeer.com CAROLINA BREWERY
120 Lowes Dr., Ste. 100, Pittsboro • Saturdays, 2pm; 919-545-2330; carolinabrewery.com 98 taste 2017
437 Dimmocks Mill Rd., Ste. 41, Hillsborough • Saturdays, 1pm and 3pm; 919-697-8379; mystery brewing.com
MYSTIC BOURBON LIQUEUR
PONYSAURUS BREWING CO. 219 Hood St., Durham • Tuesdays and Wednesdays, 5:30pm and 6pm; 978-482-7701; ponysaurusbrewing.com
TOP OF THE HILL DISTILLERY 505 W. Franklin St., Chapel Hill • Most Fridays, 7pm; most Saturdays, time varys; 919-699-8703; topodistillery.com
l
Partnering with you to Partnering with you to
Simplify. Improve. Keep costs down. Simplify. Improve. Keep costs down. • US Foods is one of America’s most innovative food companies and leading distributors serving ®
more than 250,000 customers, including independent and multi-unit restaurants, healthcare and ® • hospital US Foods is oneand of educational America’s most innovative food companies and leading distributors serving entities, institutions. more than 250,000 customers, including independent and multi-unit restaurants, healthcare and • hospital We are constantly developing innovative products, exclusive brands and expert services to help you entities, and educational institutions. reduce costs, drive traffic, increase profits and get the support you need from anywhere, anytime. • We are constantly developing innovative products, exclusive brands and expert services to help you • reduce Whethercosts, your drive operation is increase large or small, specialists cananywhere, help you: anytime. traffic, profitsour andteam get of theintegrated support you need from • Whether your operation is large or small, our team of integrated specialists can help you: - Reduce food and labor costs - Easy ordering, including tracking and reporting -- Engineer, develop and design Reduce food and labor costs menus - Easy ordering, including tracking and social media - Operating Reporting and reporting - Engineer, develop and design menus - and Examine costs socialoperational media - Operating Reporting -- Quality Process ExamineService operational costs - Quality Service Process
For more information, visit usfoods.com or contact your local US Foods® representative. For more information, visit usfoods.com or © 2016 US Foods, Inc. 06-2016 SPE-2016062903 contact your local US Foods® representative. © 2016 US Foods, Inc. 06-2016 SPE-2016062903
Gifts for Food Lovers
Whether your foodie wants to sharpen skills, find meal ideas, or just drool over gorgeous food shots, there’s always a reason to give a book.
W
BY M O R E TO N N E A L
ith the exception of homemade goodies, I can’t imagine a better gift than a cookbook or a book about food. Here are a few of my recent favorites, written or published in our own backyard.
“Deep Run Roots” BY VIVIAN HOWARD
This is a thick, handsome tome that reflects the charm of Vivian, familiar to many of us from her TV show, “A Chef’s Life.” The chef/owner of the Kinston restaurant, Chef & the Farmer, shares stories and recipes using familiar Southern ingredients, enhanced by her own fertile imagination and professional techniques. Having just made her brilliant rendition of tomato pie, I predict this will be a best-seller, for good reason. 100 taste 2017
“Poole’s: Recipes and Stories from a Modern Diner” BY ASHLEY CHRISTENSEN
“Poole’s” showcases the talent, warmth and generosity of Ashley Christensen. The James Beard Award-winning chef pioneered downtown Raleigh’s now-lively dining scene when she boldly opened Poole’s, and later, a large stable of successful restaurants, each one unique. In these pages you will find extraordinary recipes from the diner’s menu (the decadent macaroni au gratin!) and kitchen secrets (herb sachets), but the best part is learning about Ashley’s own background and philosophy, “Give until it hurts.” This big-hearted community leader should run for governor.
“The Absolute Best Place for Foodies� Since 1975
We offer a fresh seasonal menu highlighting local ingredients and contemporary cuisine, all with Southern flair. University Place - 201 S Estes Drive | Chapel Hill, NC 27514 (919) 929-7133 | southernseason.com
COOKBOOKS
“Barbecue”
BY JOHN SHELTON REED
John’s recipe for a good cookbook is a combination of cultural history and classic recipes, liberally seasoned with his characteristically wry wit. The former UNC sociology professor mixes his ingredients together with a burning passion for his subject. This is a terrific gift for folks who think they know everything about ’cue as well as those who need an introduction to N.C.’s most beloved and controversial foods.
“Greens”
BY THOMAS HEAD
This is the antidote to “Barbecue” – 50 delicious ways to cook collards, kale, turnip and mustard greens. If you don’t want to cook them yourself, Thomas shares locations of collard festivals all over the country.
“Learn to Cook 25 Southern Classics 3 Ways”
and eating both in the South and in Europe, the entertaining Jennifer offers varied perspectives on familiar dishes. Each chapter includes one traditional Southern recipe, e.g., classic deviled eggs, followed by one contemporary recipe (herbed olive oil deviled eggs) and one international (truffled devils). The fun is deciding which to make.
“Roadside Eateries”
BY D. G. MARTIN
This guide to the state’s best owner-run diners has a permanent home in my husband’s glove compartment. He reaches for it every time he gets hungry while driving along a major highway. Thank you, D. G., for stirring us to Backcountry Barbecue in Lexington just last week!
BY JENNIFER BRULÉ
“The Carolina Table: North Carolina Writers on Food”
Its unsexy title actually describes the book perfectly, but doesn’t do justice to its liveliness and originality. Inspired by living
“A buffet of North Carolina food stories” by Daniel Wallace, Lee Smith, Celia Rivenbark, Jill McCorkle, Bill Smith, Nancy McDermott and many others including yours truly.
EDITED BY RANDALL KENAN
Extra Helpings
F
One more juicy book showcases fruit in both sweet and savory recipes
or many of us, the thought of cooking with fruit is likely to stir up memories of freshly baked apple pies, cranberry jelly served at Thanksgiving and perhaps the occasional pineapple upside-down cake in the summer. Nancie McDermott’s “Fruit” is here to change that. A North Carolina native and prolific cooking author and teacher, Nancie turns her attention to reinterpreting the region’s indigenous fruits, such as strawberries and mayhaws, as well as non-native fruits often found in Southern kitchens, like figs and peaches. “Southern fruits matter,” she says, “both as mementoes of the gardening and gathering of culinary seasons past, and as worthy edible treasures for the present and future South.” Each fruit is introduced with an anecdote from 102 taste 2017
Nancie, who fondly recalls roadside stops for syrupy peaches and scrapes with thorny wild blackberry bushes. These hassles, of course, faded quickly in anticipation of the pie or cobbler they would make. Desserts definitely get the spotlight in this book, with recipes that include traditional meringue pie infused with scuppernong grapes and a cheesecake filled with persimmon puree. However, side dishes, entrees and canned preserves also make appearances, including savory spiced muscadines and watermelon rind pickles, prompting readers to think outside the box (or should we say bushel?) – by Morgan Weston l
COOKBOOKS
BE A PART OF OUR
THRIVING FOOD SCENE Sign up for the Durham Magazine and Chapel Hill Magazine newsletters and get the latest recipes and food news every week.
CHAPELHILL
M A G A Z I N E
DURHAMMAG.COM/SUBSCRIBE CHAPELHILLMAGAZINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE taste 2017 103
Hungry for More?
Enjoy some of our favorite foodie photos and join us for Taste in April PHOTO BY MORGAN WESTON
I
PHOTOS BY BRIANA BROUGH
f there are two things Dos Perros does well, it’s tacos and tequila. They’ll pair Mayan-style grilled swordfish and pineapple tacos with Don Julio Reposado served in a minimalist margarita – just one of many combinations – and end the night with sweet cheese and almond empanadas and Don Julio 1942 Extra Anejo served neat. Tacos y Tequila Night at Dos Perros Saturday, April 22, 6pm
“D
urham has a thriving food scene because the community supports not just talented, creative chefs, but local growers and suppliers that form the infrastructure required for a robust local food economy,” says Wyatt Dickson (above) of Picnic and Pig Whistle. “Durham is a great food city because the rural area around it is a great place to grow food and raise livestock.” He’ll pair up once again with hog farmer Ryan Butler at Green Button Farm to teach about sustainable farming and pasture-raised pigs and offer up samples of their whole-hog barbecue. Whole Hog Barbecue Demonstration Saturday, April 22, 11am
R
ule No. 1: Not all cider is sweet, syrupy, alcoholic apple juice. “There are bunches of people who are like, ‘I don’t really like cider,’” says Black Twig Cider House co-owner Mattie Beason. “And I’m like, ‘No, what you don’t like is what I don’t carry.’” Sip samples as he leads a lesson in cider making and history during Taste. Cider Class & Tasting Saturday, April 22, 4pm
Find more details at tastetheevent.com 104 taste 2017
DOWNTOWN DURHAM’S PREMIER MEETING AND EVENT DESTINATION Contemporary décor • Flexible meeting and event space Professional staff and services provided by Spectra Venue Management Executive culinary team providing delectable cuisine • Audio-visual services
919.956.9404 301 W. Morgan Street, Durham www.DurhamConventionCenter.com
GLUTEN-FREE EATING
A CRAFTED DINING
EXPERIENCE
Where Southern soul and Carolina spirit meet on every plate. 211 Pittsboro Street, Chapel Hill, NC 27516 • 866.392.4672
at The 106 taste 2017Carolina
Inn • free parking • crossroadscuisine.com