Nutters 2020 Relaunch - Brand Audit

Contents 1. Introduction 2. Porters 5 Forces 4. Visual Identity 5. Pestel 8. Competitor Analysis 9. Consumer Analysis 10. SWOT Analysis 11. Four P’s 13. Recommendations 14. References

Nutters: The 2020 Relaunch Brand Audit.

Thomas Nutter – otherwise known as the man who changed menswear forever. He was born on April 17th, 1943 in Barmouth Merioneth, Wales. He spent his formative years in North London where his father worked in a cafe, mostly serving truck drivers, gas-fitters, builders. The family eventually moved to Kilburn where him and his brother, David, had a pretty normal suburban childhood. They would play in the streets, enjoy family holidays to Butlins and Tommy attended the Willesden Technical College where, according to his brother, he studied plumbing. However, his life changed forever when he started his apprenticeship with Donaldson, Williams & Ward - a traditional Savile Row tailor. It was there that he learned the rules of traditional English tailoring and he ended up staying with the firm for 7 years, so he gained a thorough knowledge of the craft.

In 1968, he left Donaldson Williams & Ward to found his own business. Just one year later, on Valentines Day of 1969, he opened his first store at 35a Savile Row and joined forces with mastercutters Edward Sexton, Roy Chittleborough and Joe Morgan, and later move to No.19. He was initially backed by Cilla Black, who reportedly put a substantial amount down to help with the success of the opening, and The Beatles' executive Peter Brown also offered his assistance. Nutter was the first of his kind in many ways, from opening up his store to passers-by and having window displays, to being the first tailor to offer his services to women. When the rest of Savile Row was closed off, his window displays represented his level of innovation, such as patchouli-soaked stuffed rats wearing diamond chokers to demonstrate how pioneering his approach to the brand image was at the time. (Etherington-Smith, 1992).

Nutter's suits were known for being different, innovative and future-changing. His experience helped him keep the traditional characteristics of tailoring; Prince Of Wales check, extraordinary fit.

But his creative mind wouldn't let it stop there. High-waisted Oxford bags, over-sized lapels, and tweed mixes were key features you could identify in his designs. He rebelled against the fashion that was surrounding him at that time, which led to his nickname; the Rebel On The Row. In his relatively short but impressive time owning his own tailors, he had a list of interesting apprentices, including John Galliano and Timothy Everest, who worked at Nutters at the same time.

"Tommy was the formula 1 of Savile Row; he totally understood his craft, but also how to articulate it to a new and different audience," Everest explained in an interview in Alice Cicolini's book 'The New English Dandy' (2005), "the sensibility of a gentleman's outfitter, an awareness of impeccable craftsmanship and the deliberate, designed flamboyance of Tommy and the Central St Martins style in which Galliano was trained, have had a considerable effect on my work. What I learned at Nutters was the workings of a business and the aesthetics of 'good/bad' taste, of things that work even though ostensibly they shouldn't."

His career ended with his untimely death in 1992, and some would say the brand died with him. "Tommy didn't really know tailoring. Sexton was the brains behind the cutting but Tommy… he was the person that made it what it was.", says a tailor at The English Cut. Although key design features are being carried on Edward Sexton and the brand name is still being used by Chittleborough & Morgans, Nutter's personality was what made the brand. "Nutter was a gentle humorist who had a wide and interesting circle of friends attracted by his enthusiasm, by his gentle, self-mocking personality and his acerbic comments on the vagaries of others, always ending with the expression 'But who am I to talk?'” (Etherington-Smith, 1992). He was a chameleon who would rub shoulders with Princess Margeret one day and be dancing with drag queens in Last Resort the next (Richardson, 2017).

For the brand to keep its Tommy essence, it would require someone who truly knew him and his ways of working to maintain the personality, which is why the relaunch will see Edward Sexton step back in as Master Cutter at Nutters. The new Creative Director for Nutters will be Grace Wales Bonner – a recent Menswear graduate from Central St. Martins. She is known for her exploration of the black male identity and draws a lot of her inspiration from her own experiences growing up as a

mixed-race girl in South London. Her touch with youth, as well as her past collections being a very successful hybrid of European and African styles which will sit perfectly with the target markets, will get Nutters back where it needs to be (Ahmed, 2017).

Porter's Five Forces.

Threat Of Substitution The threat of substitution is relatively high because of the wide range of newer and more unique tailors on Savile Row and beyond that may possibly offer the same, if not more, services; a good example being McQueen's tailors who already have a loyal client base and offer an RTW option, too. With the tailors being on the same wavelength in terms of price, it is important for Nutters to offer something else that will act at the brands USP. This could be to offer an experience in store and online using the latest innovative technologies such as AR and VR.

Threat Of New Entry.

The Savile Row Bespoke Association, formed in 2004, now represents 16 tailors and acts as a safeguard for the street as a sartorial style destination. It led to SRB creating a course in 2007, in association with Newham College in East London. The three-year level 3 apprenticeship affords tailors access to government funding for trainees and is then topped up by a one-year Savile Row Diploma, which together provides the experience needed to make a full garment. Because of this, more youths will go into bespoke tailoring and put their youth spin on it. An example of where this has started to happen is Chiltern Street, Marylebone, London, a new area for evolving menswear with upcoming tailors such as Trunk Clothiers, founded by Mats Klinbergs, and The English Cut. (Doig, 2017) However, people have made that connection between Nutters and Savile Row, so it would need to open in this area despite several tailors commenting on how the Row is not the same as what it used to be with stores such as Abercrombie & Fitch Kids opening there in 2012, which sparked a host of dapper men, organised by The Chap magazine, to protest it; albeit unsuccessfully (Alexander, 2012). For this reason, and the fact that the rent is still extremely high, tailors are moving their stores elsewhere.

You could also argue that existing luxury brands may wish to expand to bespoke tailoring, a perfect example being Alexander McQueen, who opened their bespoke tailors in 2012.

Power Of The Consumer.

Consumer power is high because they have the option to go elsewhere, such as the many other tailors on Savile Row and surrounding areas. Tommy Nutter used to be go-to for unique designs but his personality was what truly made his brand. In 2020, there will be multiple other tailors in and around London who will offer unique fabrics and patterns, so it will be extremely important to keep Nutter's personality running through the brand. According to many tailors down Savile Row, many of their clients are Asian travelling to Europe for shopping. The Asian consumer has high buying power, particularly the Chinese with them accounting for 30% of the global luxury market (Benjamin Thapa, Lecture, 2017).

Power Of Supplier.

To reflect Nutter's passion for English tailoring and English wools, the brand would use an English mill for their relaunch. While promoting sustainable fashion, using these mills would keep an English company with English jobs running. Joshua Ellis is a brilliant example as they provide cashmere and wools to The Kerin Group, which includes Stella McCartney. Using Joshua Ellis will also provide consistency and Nutters wouldn't have to worry about not having a supplier.

Rivalry Amongst Existing Competition.

Competitive rivalry is there; in the past the rivalry was low but now it is on the rise. The range of tailors on Savile Row and surrounding areas varies significantly, from quirky and unique designs by Alexander McQueen to traditional English cuts by Gieves & Hawkes or Cad & The Dandy. In the 1970's, Tommy Nutter would have been in a reigning place within the market, because he offered something men had never seen before. Tailors today have taken inspiration from him and therefore it would be difficult to exceed that in today's market. For the relaunch, Nutters would have to offer something extra, whether that be an experience, innovative technologies online and in-store and a unique collaboration.

Visual Identity.

“Nutter was a gentle humorist who had a wide and interesting circle of friends attracted by his enthusiasm, by his gentle, self-mocking personality and his acerbic comments on the vagaries of others, always ending with the expression 'But who am I to talk?'", says Etherington-Smith in a 1992 obituary in The Independent. He was a chameleon who would rub shoulders with Princess Margeret one day and be dancing with drag queens in Last Resort the next (Richardson, 2017).

This fun and cheeky attitude towards life is something that Nutters will add in their campaigns in whatever way possible, as Nutters did not actually have any advertising campaigns in the past – just advertorials and earned media through word of mouth. An example of how Nutters could change their visual identity to add this aspect is the logo; the fonts and logo itself will remain similar due to how people will relate this to the brand. However, a fun illustration or a pop of colour could be added in accordance with the new collaboration. The campaigns could also be made very interactive which increases the fun factor for consumers.

Another part of Nutters that shaped the brand was how his made his garments look. Large, hand-rolled lapels, oxford bags and bell-bottoms were his signature looks. Known for his unique bespoke service, he was the creative inspiration/designer and Edward Sexton was the brains behind the tailoring. His use of English cloth and how strongly he felt about using it was also a large part of Nutter's visual identity, taking part in huge international fashion shows put on by Reid & Taylor, a Scottish firm of woollen and worsted manufactories.

PESTEL. Political Factors.

Amongst Brexit talks is the subject of free movement and the government's intentions to restrict it within the European Union to help with immigration control. The issue with this is that the fashion industry heavily relies on freelancers to sign onto last minute jobs, for example, if Nutter's relies on a model who cannot make it, they will be able to sign a model last minute and have him/her on the Eurostar and in London by lunchtime. The paperwork that comes along with applying for a visa would render it impossible for companies to carry on working in this way. Recently, the Creative Industries Federation (CIF) released its first-ever global talent report, indicating the potential detrimental effects Brexit will have on the industry. "Losing access to crucial international talent will damage our ability to produce the [work] that defines Britain around the world," says John Kampfher, chief executive at CIF. "Anything that is done that imperils this growth won't just damage this sector, but it will damage the economic well being of the country at large." However, CIF has proposed the introduction of a creative freelancers visa, an increase in short-term visas and the ability to hire any creative from Europe on the day of the job. This comes after Paris-based company OECD released a survey stating that self-employment is on the rise in the UK. (Grace Cook, October 2017).

Economical Factors.

Since Brexit, the UK's economy has taken a few knocks, such as the recent surge in inflation which, according to Mark Carney, the governor of the Bank of England, is solely because of the depreciation of the pound amid the vote to leave the EU. The jump in inflation will damage consumers spending power but also their confidence.

Another problem the industry faces is whether or not tariff-free trading will also be restricted or abolished altogether. Fabrics, materials and clothing for shoots are always being transported from

one country to the other, particularly from Paris and Italy, so the end of tariff-free trading will see companies spending thousands of pounds each time, which will severely impact the budget (Benjamin Thapa, Lecture, October 2017). If Nutter's only used rare, luxury wools and fabrics from Italy, this may create problems. Traditionally, Nutters only used English wools and fabrics, so with the restriction of tariff-free trading in mind, and in the spirit of the Nutters philosophy, the brand relaunch could include only English fabrics, too

Social Factors.

According to Monica Dreger (2017), marketing should no longer be based on demographics such as age and gender but should be behavioural or needs-based. This is because Gen-Z is unlike any other generation of the past, mostly because they were brought up surrounded by technology and convenience, but also because their millennial parents treat them like friends – they have an unusual amount of buying authority and are extremely mature for their age. To be able to reach them effectively, it's important to assess the changes in the consumers shopping behaviour. Menswear and Womenswear Mintel reports (2017) show that 34% of young men are now wanting more unique designs and 44% of women want better fitting garments. Bespoke tailoring combined with art will resolve both of these pain points and give the consumer what they want.

Influencers, micro-influencers and peer recommendations are the easiest way to integrate into generation-z's social life whether it be Instagrammers with thousands of followers or a highly respected artist who resonates with the Nutter brand (Dreger, 2017). In the 1970s, Tommy Nutter was connected to music in several ways, from who he dressed to what he did with his Saturday nights. Nutters of Savile Row was even asked to dress the cast of 2012 film Northern Soul, which led to them and Peter Werth doing a one-time collaboration for London Fashion Week 2013, which saw models spinning, dropping and kicking to If It's All The Same To You Babe by Luther Ingram.

Most consumers down Savile Row in the new tailors such as Alexander McQueen and Joseph are Asian. "I would say it is 40% local and 60% tourist," says an Assistant in McQueen, "It's because they have the money. Sometimes they are not even in London, but we will personally deliver their suit to their hotel." Therefore, it would be relevant to market the campaign towards this consumer, as well as the UK consumer. He also would have tapped into the Sapeur – a 'band of men in Brazzaville, Congo, who make the art of dressing a cultural, and almost political, statement. They have a sartorial DNA that nods to 1920’s jazz age refinement and has its roots in the French colonisation of the Congo in the early part of the 20th century' (Doig, 2014). Using this as inspiration in someway will resonate effectively with the African market in which Nutters could consider penetrating. In whatever way Nutter uses the inspiration from the Sapeurs, they must always be aware of cultural appropriation and how it may affect others around the world. For example, Stella McCartney has been slammed in her SS '18 collection for using Ankara prints but only sending 1 or 2 black models down the runway (Bauck, 2017).

Technological Factors.

Our world is forever changing and evolving – particularly in the area of technological advancement.

For example, we have now entered the realm of VR or AR, where consumers can immerse themselves in different worlds. There are 'cobots' – robots that are designed to work cohesively besides humans beyond the factory line and onto the shop floor. China has recently introduced FACE++; a totally secure payment system using your face (Knight, 2017). It is no secret that brands need to create an experience in today's age to have any sort of memorable impact on the consumer, so it is important to tap into what Generation-Z and millennials are being brought up with. 37% of men aged 16-24 would be interested in the use of VR when they're online shopping, and 44% of

millennials in general would prefer to use self-service checkout when shopping in-store, according to Tamara Sender (2017). Nutter's stores could even introduce FACE++ as their form of self-service payments. Millenials do not have the attention span of baby boomers; they need things to be quick, easy and constantly changing to keep them interested (Benajmin Thapa, Lecture, 2017). Taking inspiration from The Museum of Ice-cream, Nutter's stores could also have multiple Instagram-able rooms, where shoppers can change the colour/pattern on the walls with a HIVE-type technology with their phones, to contrast their new suit. Body scanners could also be used in store to take measurements, with an interactive mirror to choose style, fabric, pattern and colour, all while the suit is being virtually placed on the body to see how it looks with their skin tone, hair colour, etc.

Environmental Factors.

When starting or reviving a brand, it is important to think about the consequences that your brand's actions can have on the environment. Mark Sumner, lecturer of Sustainability, Fashion and Retail at University of Leeds, says "by 2030, it is predicted that the industry's water consumption will grow by 50 percent to 118 billion cubic metres, its carbon footprint will increase to 2,791 tonnes and the amount of waste it creates will hit 148 tonnes." These predictions are in spite of companies successfully minimising their impact by using sustainable cotton and technologies, but it has now come to the point where companies have done their share and the consumers have to do theirs. As a species, we are more selfish than we like to think and we love to shop. Ethically-minded brands say the only thing stopping them from becoming more sustainable is their consumers, either through their lack of knowledge surrounding the issue or their unwillingness to pay for a sustainable product (Sumner, 2017). Offering a bespoke service will eliminate damages to the environment through a number of reasons; there is no mass-production involved and no waste – buyers are highly unlikely to throw a bespoke suit away as it is an investment piece. Through visiting and speaking to a number of tailors on Savile Row, it has become apparent that the need for RTW tailoring is increasing with the consumer's needs for immediacy, although some respected tailors think this is embarrassing as it is losing what Savile Row has always been. To keep the brand sustainable, they could use an English mill such as Joshua Ellis, as discussed earlier in the audit.

Legal Factors.

As the revival of Nutters has a possible new ready-to-wear line, it may be required to go across the pond to other European major cities as other luxury brands look for the 'new London' ahead of Brexit. However, this will present legal obstacles, particularly with advertisement. In a recent article on the BBC, retrieved from BOF, on 30th September 2017, it revealed that France has just recently introduced a new law that states no advertisement shall be photoshopped unless it is clearly marked with “Photographie Retouchee” which translates to “edited photograph”. Any company that fails to follow the new rules will face a fine of £33,000 or 30% of the cost of the ad. It comes after French government decided that enough is enough – instead of being known for their anorexia rates, they want to be known for their promotion of body positivity. It isn't the first move they made. Back in May, they introduced a rule that required all models to provide a doctors note to show that they are healthy. If Nutters decide to open tailors in luxury areas of Paris or in the South of France, they would need to make sure they are following this law. (Eggert, 2017) The same applies if Nutters wanted to open in Shanghai or Hong Kong. Legally, China does not have access to certain social media platforms so this would affect how they would market and advertise there. MyMM is a new app, built for the Chinese consumer, in partnership with The Wharf (Holdings) Ltd and e-commerce technology company eCargo. Thomson Cheng, vice chairman, says there are over 1200 brands and 6000's SKU's currently using the platform. In simple terms, it is an

interactive hub for Chinese consumers who love fashion, creatives, influencers, celebrities If Nutters would decide to open a store in China, it would be a good way for Nutters to reach out to those Chinese consumers who don't travel to buy their luxuries, or to entice them to travel over (BOF team, 2017).

Competitor Analysis.

There are countless amounts of tailors that offer the same type of product as what Nutters used to make and what Nutters could possibly make in the future. It is important as a brand to analyse your competitors and figure out what you can do to set your brand apart from the rest.

In the 1970s, there were many well-respected tailors who made up Savile Row for what it is known for. One of them being Scabal at Number 12. Scabal opened in 1972 and is still going strong today. Like Nutter's visions for the future, Scabal collaborated with the world-famous artist Dali, who created 12 artworks that depicted the artist's unique vision of how tailoring would be in the 21st century. They also dressed the rich and famous like Nutter, albeit a different audience. Good examples are Vito Corleone's famous tuxedo that was worn in The Godfather, and almost every one of Robert DeNiro's iconic 70 suits in Casino. This brand also has its own heritage mill in England where all their materials are made. You could say this is their USP, as they are tapping into sustainable fashion which many people want to see and not many other tailors have their own mill.

Gieves & Hawkes, originally two separate brands in the 1700's, joined forces in 1974 at No.1. They originally crafted uniforms for the military, which means today the tailoring house possesses all three main Royal Warrants, for HM The Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh and HRH The Prince of Wales, and have had every sovereign of United Kingdom since George III. Now, they cater to the modern businessman, offering bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear. The upper-floor highlights their pride in their history, uniforms dating back to the 1800's enclosed in glass cases, and an archive full of images of Royals wearing their suits, their most recent being Prince William.

Downstairs is a mixture of product, ranging from the traditional dinner suit to casual knitted beanie hats and jumpers. This demonstrates how even the most traditional of tailors are responding to the youth culture and the changes in fashion as a whole.

But it isn't just the traditional tailors that are proving to be competitors for Nutters. Ozwald Boateng, who has been around since the 1980's when he opened his first design studio on Portobello Road, has dressed the likes of Mick Jagger and Jimmy Page. Aside from Tommy Nutter, he is also known for his unique outlook on tailoring and men's fashion, offering bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear suits in an array of colours, patterns and materials. The store is modern and inviting but minimal, with a long corridor with glossy walls. Beautiful suits sat in glass cases. This all led to a little art installation at the back. Prices for a bespoke two-piece suit start at around ÂŁ4,600.

The top competitor of the Nutters brand would be Alexander McQueen tailors on Savile Row which opened in 2012. This is because they are targeting the younger, more fashion-conscious market with their unique designs like Nutters will for the relaunch. This brand is already wellrespected like Nutters but has an advantage due to its well-established, loyal client base with the brand's catwalk label. McQueen's tailors offer a bespoke service and RTW, with a 2-piece RTW suit peaking at ÂŁ3420. For their bespoke services, clients can pick fabrics and patterns from any of the previous McQueen collections to make it truly unique, which you could say is there USP. McQueen also sells jewellery and shoes as their entry-level products. The store itself was designed by McQueen before his death, with railings carved like spines and clawed feet on display cases, all leading to an art installation in the back like Ozwald Boateng; you could very much feel his personality as we know it.

Consumer Analysis.

Back in the 1970's, major Mick Jagger and Elton John fled to his store, Elton stating he would often go there to be measured whilst enjoying a glass of Sherry. Nutter's was also used to style some of the most iconic images of the time, such as that red velvet suit on Twiggy. His most proud work was dressing all but one of The Beatles on their 'Abbey Road' album cover. But it wasn't only men he would invite to his store - his close friend, Bianca Jagger, would often be photographed wearing a white tailored suit. "Bianca really wanted a man's suit and not a suit cut for a woman," Everest said. "She asked for the darts to be taken out of her first pistachio green suit to make it sexier."

People went to him when they wanted innovative styling together with a bespoke suit. Even aspiring teenage dandies from the East End would come to Nutters with the money they had saved, just to own a Nutter's suit.

For the relaunch, Nutters will potentially target three different markets; London, Africa and China. Firstly, London will always be where Nutters is based because of the heritage that sits with the brand; it wouldn't be Nutters of Savile Row without Savile Row. London style is also daring and a little rebellious, which are the two words that makeup Nutters personality. "I love to see how very brave the young people are—they have no rules", said Alessandro Michele speaking about London style to Vogue. The UK is also steering away from disposable fashion, so slow, luxury fashion is a brilliant option for them.

Another market that is heading towards ecological fashion is the Chinese. For Nutters to penetrate the Chinese market, they wouldn't need to open a store there due to their travelling lifestyles and the fact they buy most of their luxury goods abroad, but they would need to reach them somehow due to them making up a large portion of Savile Row consumers and also a large portion of the global luxury market; 30%, to be exact. They could do this through their advertisements and communications. However, they would need to be fully aware of laws in China.

They have little or no access to the social media platforms that are so popular in the UK, so the use of apps like MyMM and Weibo would have to be considered in any marketing strategy for this particular consumer, but even these are extremely censored (Pham, 2017).The emerging markets of Asia Pacific, Latin America, the Middle East and Africa accounted for a combined 19 percent of the global luxury goods market in 2013 – a figure expected to grow to 25 percent by 2025 (Deloitte, 2014). This is why, amongst other reasons, Africa is another potential market for Nutters. According to Rodger George, Africa Leader for Consumer Business at Deloitte, Africa provides long-term growth for businesses due to the evolving appetite and behaviour of their consumers. However, he says it would require a sophisticated and uniquely African approach. As mentioned in Social Factors, the Sapeurs as inspiration is a fantastic way to show African how Nutters cares for their culture, but it will also shed light and raise awareness about the horror and war happening in the Congo right

SWOT Analysis.

The Four P'S. Product.

In the 1970s, Nutters only ever did bespoke tailoring because that was what Savile Row was all about. To this day, Chittleborough & Morgan, the tailors who have carried forward the Nutters name, only offer bespoke, too. However, with more millennials wanting immediacy as well as uniqueness, many tailors are now offering Ready-To-Wear. It would seem only logical for Nutters to tap into the market, too.

Products could include entry level products such as ties, cuff-links, beanie hats and socks, to the mid and high-end products such as shirts, leather shoes and full three-piece suits. This would be to include a wide range of demographics so everybody can have the Nutters brand in some way. Nutter was a strong advocate of only using high-quality English materials, and was known for the huge

hand-rolled lapels, tweed mixes and enlarged and clashed Prince Of Wales check. For the relaunch, Nutters will carry his love for the English forward but give it a youthful, arty and cultural injection.

Inspiration from cultures such as The Sapeurs and artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat may provide that, as both take their inspiration from everyday things around them, particularly politics and music.

Price.

According to the Journal of Consumer Research (N.D), a high price indicates either bad value or good quality, whereas low price indicates either good value or poor quality. It goes on to say that consumers usually do not have all the available information on a product so they use informal and common sense explanations to make that determination, such as price. There are many options when choosing a pricing strategy: market penetration, marketing skimming and neutral pricing, all come with their strengths and weaknesses. Neutral pricing would be the most sensible option for the Nutters relaunch as the products and services would not be so underpriced that consumers think they are of bad quality, but also not so overpriced that they will go elsewhere for a more affordable price. Nutters will be offering the consumer more than just a tailored suit so that is what will set the brand apart from the rest and that is what will make up the consumers mind when choosing their tailor. With this in mind, suits will be ranging from £4000 to £8000, with smaller entry-level products between £300 and £1000 depending on product and material.

Place.

For the first time ever, global net luxury store openings, in the 12 months through until July 2017, has been in the negative. Andrew Phipps, head of retail research at property consulting firm CBRE, tells BoF, "In Asian markets, in particular, luxury brands have been surprised by how the customer operates, especially in Hong Kong and China. You don't need six or seven Armani stores, people will travel to get to luxury brands." Because of this, there have been 62 net closures in China alone, despite them the biggest luxury goods spenders who make up for 30% of the global luxury market.

However, this is because they do a large portion of their shopping overseas because it adds to the story. Brands will have to deal with the norm of slower growth, digital disruption and more experience-led destination stores. Tommy Nutter only ever had one store because he was a bespoke tailor, but could the relaunch include multiple experience-led stores in key destinations such as Savile Row in London, or Corso Venezia in Milan, where there will be multiple dimensions to the stores?

For example; a bespoke tailoring area, where you get to see the tailor hard at work, RTW area, a gin bar with the finest gins from around the world, a body-scanning fitting room that quickly and precisely takes your measurements and puts the suit on your body using AR, with an interactive mirror that will allow the client to choose colour, style, pattern, fabric. Downstairs could be a tattoo parlour and a barber. Another room is an art installation or exhibition space, or an Instagram-able interactive room where people can have 360 selfies in their new bespoke suits.

Online luxury sales have grown nearly twentyfold since 2003, making up 8% of the luxury market sales. This is expected to grow to 25% by 2025. It is a no-brainer that any store or service needs digital platforms to survive in today's world, so with that in mind Nutters will have an online store for Ready-To-Wear ranges, and they will be able to book appointments for the bespoke and made-to-measure services.

Promotion.

To promote the relaunch, Nutters will work across a number of platforms to ensure they reach their

target market. The first and one of the main print platforms will be magazine advertisements.

Magazines are an effective way to advertise because they are highly targeted to a magazine's readership. Esquire, The Rake, Wallpaper, Harpers Bazaar, Wonderland, AnOther and i-D are all magazines Nutters should consider using for one of two reasons: these are the magazines that kept appearing in each tailor I visited down Savile Row and they are also magazines that are aimed towards style innovators and early style adopters.

There are many places to advertise throughout a magazine, but the most effective at gaining reach is the first double page spread or the inside cover, although it is typically the most expensive.

Nutters could also benefit from an advertorial, which is where the company will take the whole page and ask a respected journalist, celebrity or expert to write a feature on them and therefore confirm the attributes of the brand. (Greenwood, 2013).

Another print advertising technique Nutters could use is outdoor and ambient advertising. This type of advertising grew more effective with increasing levels of travel and tourism. According to Jackson & Shaw (2009), it is increasingly effective at reaching the younger audience; particularly young males as this segment of the population spends a great deal of time in groups on the street. It is also a good way to reach commuters in traffic jams if the advertisement is placed at road junctions, intersections and on billboards. The use of transport can also be really effective, such as on/in trains, lorries, buses and taxis as they are constantly in different areas and are in the eyes of people every day.

Ambient advertising is another form of outdoor advertising where adverts are placed in unusual or unconventional places. They are often small but because of their cleverly but odd positioning, they have the power to instantly catch someone's eye. Ambient advertising is often used in guerrilla advertising campaigns; which is low cost and unconventional but yields maximum results as it is all about taking the consumer by surprise, giving them a personal and memorable experience and creating something that everybody will talk about. (Creative Guerilla Marketing, 2010). In a world bombarded with advertisement, this would be the way for a Nutter's campaign to truly stand out.

Social media is one of the most important platforms for brands to communicate with customers.

On Facebook, Instagram and Twitter, 'liking' or 'following' a page means joining a brand's community which is great for building a customer base, but also for communicating with bloggers and fashion influentials.

The main platforms that Nutters would use would be Instagram and Snapchat as they are more visual. A great example of digital advertising is Snapchat. They enable the brand to create Snapchat stories and moving advertisements, along with 3D World Lenses; Snapchats new augmented reality feature. According to Snapchat, 1 in 3 of their daily active snappers use the lenses and on average, campaigns with Lenses drive a 19.7 point lift in ad awareness, a 6.4 point lift in brand awareness, and a 3.4 point lift in action intent. Brands can also change the settings to specifically target your consumer using behavioural and demographic information. It is an amazing way for consumers to “try� a product and see it first. A good way Nutters could capitalise on this is by having avatars wearing Nutters suits, or actually placing the suit on the Snapchatters body.

Recommendations.

Based on extensive research, the recommendations for a Nutter's relaunch would be: 1. To launch primarily in London, the UK with a store on Savile Row, but also promote towards the Chinese and African market.

2. To offer ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and bespoke tailoring, as well as entry-level products ranging from cuff-links to shoes. Products will range from around ÂŁ400 to bespoke suits totalling between ÂŁ8000 and ÂŁ9000.

3. To promote through print and digital platforms such as magazine, ambient advertising and social media platforms with the most emphasis placed on Instagram and Snapchat.

4. Touchpoints will include bought media such as magazine advertisements and advertorials in publications for the style innovators such as i-D, AnOther, Wonderland, etc and owned media such as flyers, website and social media, which will hopefully lead to earned media.

5. The Nutters logo will be changed slightly for the launch in accordance with the collaboration to make it modern and appealing, as will the interior design of the London store and some features of the clothing. However, the visual features that Nutters was so well known for will not change.

6. A potential collaborative partner is Jean-Michel Basquiat, whose artwork was so irrational and unique at this time, which I think reflects Tommy Nutter's ways of tailoring. His graffitiesque work will also appeal to a younger audience.

7. The new creative director for the Nutters brand will be Grace Wales Bonner, with help from Master Cutter Edward Sexton.

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