The mystical and magestical world of
SABYASACHI
SABYASACHI Book Designed & Edited By : Sharayu Ramteke NIFT Mumbai Under the mentorship and guidance of Mr. Aniket Satam
CONTENTS Becoming Sabyasachi Behind All The Magic Brand History Brand Visual Elements Core Visual Insignias Notable Collections Brand Communications Collaboration CSR Initiatives
BECOMING SABYASACHI
I am an INDIAN designer. It defines 'me' and 'my work'. It is my biggest pride and my greatest asset.
The Perfect Imperfection Of Human Hand When one thinks of Sabysachi, one thinks of the colour red, the gorgeous lehengas and the eternal saree; that is how closely these are connected with Sabysachi and have been for several years in Indian fashion. Sabyasachi's creative vision has a reshaped and revamped Indian textiles, which has soared to great heights while staying rooted to all the inherent traditions, and glamour that India has to offer in the realm of fashion. Sabyasachi's design weave a journey from past to present and the future through his designs and that's what makes him the leading contemporary Indian designers.
abyasachi Mukherjee come from a middle class Bengali family of Kolkata. His mother, Sandhya Mukherjee worked at Government Art College, and was deeply into handicrafts. His father, Shukumar Mukherjee lost his job when Sabya was just 15 years old. Mukherjee wanted to study at NIFT, but his parent wanted him to become an engineer, as they couldn't understand how a course in designing clothes can help him in future career, and hence they refused to fund his admission into NIFT. Sabya sold his books to pay for the admission form and passed the exam. After his graduation, he opened a workshop, and started his career fom there. Summer of 1999, Sabyasachi graduated from National Institute of Fashion Technology, India with three major awards. Four months later, Sabyasachi tarted his own eponymous label which began with a workforce of just three people. Over the years, he has built, a clothing brand which has a strong social perspective. And now Sabyasachi is one of the most influential names in the Indian fashion industry. Sabya's sister, Shingini Mukherjee (Payal), who is 7 years younger to him, manages the business of the label. He studied in a Bengalimedium school and grew up with dress dilemmas, and a keeness for art and poetry. Now, he wears his success like one of his heavily embellished costumes delighted to own it, but not entirely comfortable in it.
"Obscure boy from Calcutta..." "Believe it or not, I am a Massive Introvert..." "Sexiness is a confidence issue, not a size issue..." " I believe clothes should be just an extension of one's intellect..." " People buy my clothes with guilt free pleasure so they can pass them on... It's like marriage and one-night stand. We don't design for one-night stands..." " Though I am a minimalist at heart, my outward physical manifestation is that of a maximalist..."
BEHIND ALL THE MAGIC
With a humble start with workforce of three people, Sabyasachi now is a successful fashion entreprenuer and a major clothing brand which caters exclusively to the ever-growing Indian wedding couture clothing market and audience. His design philosophy celebrates the Indian culture, art and sense of personalisation with strong design aesthetics rooted with his homegrounds - Kolkata. He describes his work as "International styling with an Indian soul" and is highly inspired by the gypsies, art and handicrafts, catering to the dynamic, vibrant, evoloving and complex demographic of India. From the maximalist lehengas studded with semi-precious stones, beads and pearls, to richly embroidered and opulent velvet lehengas fit for royalty; Sabyasachi paints together the past and the present, combining heirloom details with modern and skin-baring silhouettes. Each of his masterpieces boasts the same extraordinary attention to detail and superior level of craftsmanship but also, an aesthetic that is remarkably restrained.
BRAND HISTORY
2020 2006 1999 Launched the brand by his own name " Sabyasachi" with just Rs.20,000 in hand and workforce of 3 after graduation from NIFT.
2004
Exhibited "The Nair Sisters" collection at the Oxford Uni. Annual Black Tie Charity Dinner Fashion Show.
Showcased the label at Milan Fashion Week.
2012 2007 Represented his label in London Fashion Week, New York Fashion Week, Lakme India Fashion Week, Vogue Launch Event, Bridal Asia.
Styled for a calendar where Neha Dhupia was dressed up as painter Frida Kahlo and dressed Oprah Winfrey for Elle India Cover shoot in a saree.
Collaboration with H&M and launch of New York Store. Collaboration with Bergdorf Goodman New York for handcrafted pieces of fine Bohemian jewelry.
2021 Aditya Birla Fashion acquires 51% stake in the brand Sabyasachi.
2009 2002
2003
Debut at Indian Fashion Week 2002 with his first colection.
First international debut with the Grand Winner Awards at Mercedes Benz New Asia Fashion Week in Singapore.
2005 Forayed into the film industry & won National Award for best Costume Designer for "Black" movie.
Launch of Menswear collection line and kids wear under Chota Sabya.
2015 Autumn Winter 2015 collection at Amazon India Couture Week in collaboration with French Luxury Footwear deigner Christian Louboutin.
2018-2019 2017 Launch of Sabyasachi jewelry line.
Famous Bollywood celebrity couples - Virat & Anushka, Ranveer & Deepika and Priyanka Chopra dressed in Sabyasachi wedding couture
BRAND VISUAL ELEMENTS
Brand Logo
"My first Tiger spotting was at the the Alipore Zoo, Calcutta. I clearly remember it was a crisp December morning and as he looked into my eyes balefully, I asked my father if it was ok to give him my ‘turmeric’ laced popcorn. I was all of six years old. Little did we both know that day that he would become an integral part of my life!" In ‘2014’ the royal Bengal Tiger became the brand logo and has had many outings ever since. The current logo of the brand consists of the Royal Bengal Tiger with the label name in Centaur Std. typeface in black colour. The Bengal Tiger in his logo, presented an animal that has walked the planet alone, claiming his territory, avoiding all types of trespassing.
Logo Evolution After addition of the tiger, the logo saw colour variations with the tiger motif in white against a maroon backdrop was used exclusively for social media.
Early 2000s - the very first logo featured the label in black Iris Std font with a red dot symbolising a red bindi on the letter I.
Other colour variations include the tiger motif in gold and the typeface in black.
Early 2010s - The typeface or font of the label chnaged to faux sanskrit or devanagiri script in black colour.
Other colour variations include the tiger motif in gold and the typeface in black. After 2010s - The logo changed to the brand name in Centaur Std fond in all black colour.
"The India that I love is colourful, joyous and boisterous. The India that I love is inclusive and revels in its diversity. The India that I love is multidimensional. Multicultural. Multilingual. The India that I love celebrates its authenticity. Its cultural audacity. I try to preserve this India that I love in the work I do. Hoping it gets continued in all its glory, long after I have gone."
Brand Moodboard
"....laakhon deewaane tere, laakhon deewane....aashiq puraane tere, aashiq puraane...."
Brand Identity Prism PHYISQUE
PERSONALITY
Royal Bengal tiger, bridal lehenga, colour red, plunging neck line and Indian textiles.
Traditional, authentic, vibrant, luxurious and progressive.
RELATIONSHIP
CULTURE
Personalized customer experience, high quality, hand crafted, limited edition and cultural heritage.
India proud, significance & symbolization of colour red and roots of origin - Calcutta.
REFLECTION
SELF IMAGE
High society, elite class, aspirational, grandeur and magnificence.
Confidence, uniqueness, authencity and royalty.
PICTURE OF RECEIVER
INTERNALIZATION
EXTERNALIZATION
PICTURE OF SENDER
Brand Personality EXCITEMENT
SINCERITY
Daring Trendy Unique
Honest Sincere Real Sentimental COMPETENCE
SOPHISTICATION SOPHISTICATION Upper-class Attractive Charming
Reliable Hardworking Successful Confident
CORE VISUAL INSIGNIAS
Colour- deep red, maroon, greens, shades of pink pastels gold &, natural whites. Rose motif, exotic & tropical flower prints, handloom, tiger logo and lion symbol as charms. Silk floss Patch work, Gota work, and zari work on borders. Hand embroidery & natural dyes. Use of emeralds and corals & in jewelery. Taj Minaudiere clutch - in leather and velvet and Nani bucket. Attire - Turban for male, deep cut blouses, use of colourful circular shades in the brand shoots. Celebrating Calcutta and raw India , expressing extensively in brand campaigns.
NOTABLE COLLECTIONS
The Lal Dera Collection Sabyasachi used the brightest, warmest and the most popping shades of red to define the 'Sabyasachi Red' in his collection. The name 'Lal Dera' The ace designer believes that these ensembles in red hold in common a sense of quiet dignity, serenity and the wonderful visual language of cultural clothing. To him, it has heartwarming, powerful, and has a strange, unsettling sense of contemporary nostalgia from the times when he took notice of these powerful elements. Phulkari, zari, tilla-work, gota, aari-taari and zardosi rule the designs as they blend with fabrics like velvet, silk and cotton.
The Kesaribai Pannalal Collection
Sabyasachi's current collection 'Kesribai Pannalal' has elements to represent all stratas, moods and cultures of the Indian society. The unique blend of organza, prints, embroidery with fabrics, work and pure craftsmanship creates timeless pieces of art that can easily be called as heirloom couture in today's times. The collection features Regal jewelry for which he took inspiration from the way some of the most elegant Indian women dressed namely, Protima Bedi, Rekha, and many more. Moreover, the jewelry features rubies, emeralds, pearls, yellow sapphires, and tourmalines. The velvet lehengas were seen embroidered with zardozi, crystals, and applique work. The men’s collection starts with printed khadi angrakhas and silk Kota turbans and moves on to quilted sherwanis, accessorized with Bengal tiger buttons.
The Taramati Biradari Collection
This segment features ‘Kumquat’ lehengas, embroidered with zardozi, rhinestones, and silk-floss threads and paired with the designer’s heritage chokers. Similarly, it also includes earthy Vanarsi organza sarees, with a block printed ‘kanthi’ blouse and tilla embroidered miniature gilets. The vision was to produce a quintessential Indian Mehendi as you can see men styled in block printed angrakhas with floral and leheriya turbans and women in organza and kalidars.
The Guftgu Collection
For this segment, he drew inspiration from the confidence and class apart characteristics of the Indian Army and the Air Force. The collection featured ladies in Shawl collar blouses with zardozi details and hand-painted organza sarees. You can see men in quilted silk sherwanis, complemented with tussar stole with tilla border edging. Starched sarees and velvet blouses make for this part of the current couture line. The blouses hold intricate zardosi work on the shawlcollars while the sarees hold lush prints of blooms and organza. For men, quilted and silk sherwanis rule the collection.
The Dil Guldastan Collection
Silks and velvets fused with appliques, silkfloss, threadwork with encrusted jewel stones and crystallis rule this part of the collection. The ensembles are a blooming vision and the designs, ever so romantic. The lush details, lovely colors and its vivid, rich feel make these creations one to die for. The lehenga is intricately embroidered on Bordeaux silk with hand-dyed velvet appliques, silk-floss, beaten silver and gold thread and rose-tinted crystals and rhinestones. The look is accessorized with jewellery from the Sabyasachi Heritage Jewelry Collection and romanticized with a sheer, diaphanous, embroidered veil completing the look of a traditional Indian bride!
The Shwetkamal Collection
Sabyasachi presents Burma Ivory velvet saree with a painstakingly embroidered ‘tilla’ work pallu inspired from a rare Kashmiri shawl. The pleats are embroidered on tulle with marori and gota. The look is accessorized with 22k gold, uncut diamonds, emerald and pearl jewellery from the Sabyasachi Heritage Jewelry Collection. Inspired by Mughal miniatures and Benarasi meena, this lavish lehenga is embroidered with silk floss, antique zardosi and semi-precious stones and pearls. The lehenga is framed with a museum-quality zardosi border featuring elephants and foliage with three-dimensional relief. For a little bit of period whimsy, the lehenga is teamed with a shawl-collar portrait velvet blouse in ‘Sulekha’ blue. The look is accessorized with traditional jewellery featuring Burmese rubies, Zambian emeralds, pearls and uncut diamonds.
The Gulkand Collection
This collection borrows heavily from hedonism and decadence. Drying rose petals, gulkand, kishmish, cardamom, zarda and pomegranate set the mood and the colour palette. Deep brooding burgundy and russet over-layered with antiquated zardosi, semi-precious stones and pearls form the basis of these baroque bridalwear lehengas. the Gulkand Collection is nothing short of stunning with deep tones and rich, luxurious fabrics. The embroidery and bead work alone is enough to swoon over.
The Charbagh Collection
Charbagh. The name itself, derives from a Persian-style garden split into four gardens of paradise. Fittingly, line is split into four categories - Chowk, Devi, Nargis and Isfahan, each one designed to transcend brides into a state of richness and grandeur.
The Chowk Collection
For the Chowk collection, the designer was inspired by the way women in rural India dress, and the authenticity in how they express themselves through their clothing. Paying homage to the folk cultures of India, it features the integrity and authenticity of rural India with deep colours and textiles. Featuring the intimacy, integrity, authenticity and positive defiance of rural India, Sabyasachi pays homage to the folk cultures of India in his Chowk Collection. He has portrayed fierce individualistic modernity of urban woman using rural textiles, in the form of strength, confidence and provocative sexuality. This collection is custom made for simple and delicate women who want quiet, composed weddings with a few friends, and are unalarmed by the influence of grandness.
The Devi Collection
The collection Devi, as the name suggests, is associated with power and good energy, symbolized by the color Red. Brides with blind faith in his magic have renamed the shade as ‘Sabyasachi Red’. Culturally speaking, red is the color of familiarity that is attributed to traditions. Womenswear in Sabyasachi Red and menswear is tones of beige and off-white mark the Devi Collection. The name, Devi, is associated with power, and good energy - and brides who have fallen for the designer's work have even renamed the shade as 'Sabyasachi red!'
The Nargis Collection
For this collection, Sabyasachi imagined a wild overgrown garden with lush flowers blooming. Fragranced by memories of rose, sandal and amber - he chose hues of soft pastel shades and embellished floral motifs, which are prominent in the collection. Sabyasachi imagined “a wild overgrown garden with lush flowers blooming everywhere. It was hauntingly beautiful. Silent. Serene.” Fragranced by the memories of rose, sandal, Curcuma, amber, vetiver, frankincense, and jasmine, he gave birth to the Nargis Collection- a destination wedding edit. Hues of soft pastel shades that breathe simplicity, there are simple embellished floral motifs of Sabyasachi’s memoirs.
The Isfahan Collection
This collection is for the bride looking for an element of regal romance on her wedding day. Isfahan takes inspiration from Mughal-inspired motifs and Persian flora and fauna. You'll discover velvets, organzas, muslins and mulmul all gloriously embellished with decadent zardozi in gold and silver, with tiny specks of mina in silk floss. The colours are subdued too, with Indian purple replaced by a faded jamun, fuchsia gives way to pomegranate and bright feroza comes shrouded in layers of patin. According to Sabyasachi, “there is an undefined depth in Islamic Art in the form of melancholic hues. Their colors are joyous, but tingled with pathos.” He further explains that Islamic colors are a dusty replacement of generic colors- purple replaced with faded Jamun, fuschia and red replaced with pomegranate, and so on. Dusty colors fit best with beautiful, glossy fabrics like satin and velvet, embellished with decadent zardosi in gold and silver. The Isfahan Collection is marked with Mughal motifs and Persian flora and fauna.
BRAND COMMUNICATION
Ad Campaigns
The brand uses social media actively for his advertising of his collections and campaigns through storyteling videos, posts about the collection, teaser videos and posting announcements of his product and collection launches and exhibitions. These are directed towards his abundant audience which is present evidently on the social media platform - Instagram.
Print Media Analysis Sabyasachi has been on the cover of the country's known fashion and lifestyle magazines featuring him and his work. Famous celebrities have been spotted on the covers of popular magazines wearing a Sabyasachi outfit and the list doesn't just include Indian celebs but International big names too. Fashion and lifestyle magazines like Vogue, Khush Mag, Conde Nast Travelller have feautured his works and his interviews, to name a few.
Social Media Analysis Instagram has become the brand's main marketing machine. He’s a master storyteller. A study has revealed that 92% of the consumers want their brands to make ads that feel like a story. Sabyasachi uses visual and social storytelling strategies on social media to his advantage. He invokes a feeling of nostalgia with the story of every piece he designs. A quick study of his social media accounts reveals the beautifully penned anecdotes accompanied by the breath-taking visuals that take you back in time to the back alleys of Kolkata or the bazaars of Baroda. He taps into the emotions he creates in the minds of his customers and uses this to drive his content. He connects with the people. A study has revealed that about 30% of the customers will buy products that have been recommended by their peers. Sabyasachi makes great use of this tactic. Besides celebrities and models, he features his not so famous clients too! These beautiful brides become brand evangelists. They proudly share or retweet the feature in their social media circles and gain social media infamy while getting Sabyasachi a fair share of publicity amongst the masses. This brand has bolstered its marketing strategy with user generated content. Many brides who don a Sabyasachi flood their social media accounts with their pictures and proudly proclaim that they are Sabyasachi brides. These pictures have not been professionally shot and are relatable. It feels as if a friend is giving a recommendation. This influences the purchase decisions of the other ladies. The brand maintains a healthy balance of inspirational and aspirational content. By featuring the Sabyasachi brides, the brand makes the customers feel as if they are part of an elite community. A quick glance at the brand’s social media accounts reveals that this strategy has resulted in many double taps, likes and shares. In this era of social media clutter, Sabyasachi stands out due to his engaging content.
" The master storyteller "
The brand has five official pages on Instagram, namely - Sabyasachi Offcial, Sabyasachi Accessories, Sabyasachi Jewelry, Brides of Sabyasachi and Grooms of Sabyasachi and features the products respectively. The content curation of all the pages streamlines with the brand identity and aesthetics and is represented at its best through modes of storytelling.
The Sabyasachi store - travel back in the time. Intricate details and exquisite craftsmanship, hallmark of the Sabyasachi brand, also make their way into the palatial interiors of his storeS. Designed to make anyone entering feel like royalty, at Sabyasachi’s store consists of the double-height wooden door with the gold Bengal tiger, which seems more welcoming than imposing. A heady perfume wafts out and you find yourself standing in the entryway of a world that seems equal parts dreamy and theatrical. Hand-painted tiles that climb up the walls on both sides of this palatial entrance make a stunning backdrop for the antique furniture. Ittar bottles procured from different parts of the country frame the seating while equally exquisite glass chandeliers drop down from the ceiling. In numbers the details are even more incredible - a grand staircase divides this 13,500 sq ft store into two separate wings, the store is adorned with 63 pieces of art from The Sabyasachi Art Foundation, 732 ittar bottles, 112 antique carpets, 57 chandeliers, and 42 pieces of calendar art. Rare Tanjore paintings, vintage Dutch plates in the jewellery section, and wallpaper by Sabyasachi for Nilaya by Asian Paints in the dressing rooms add to creating this palatial space. Antique brass utensils sit at the bottom while hand-picked art from The Sabyasachi Art Foundation creates a museum-esque gallery wall. More than a dozen chandeliers drop down to a glittering effect. By this time, you could be forgiven for expecting peacocks to walk into the fold somehow. It’s the effect the décor has – one that is magnificently fit for royalty. Striking the right mix of metals can be challenging, but keep in mind these tips for a style that hints at opulent while also being fun. Hand painted tiles with antique furniture.
The gallery wall along the staircase is fashioned like a museum of art with Sabyasachi art foundation, antique dutch plates, vinatge chandeliers, hand retouched studio portraits adorning it. leather clad safe by Trunks company jaipur. wall to wall mirror with marquee lights creates a theatrical setting complete with antique rugs on the floor. 22 vintage hand-painted chandeliers, 52 antique rugs, block printed chintz curtains made of 200 thread count khadi... Given that many of these collectibles cost "an arm and a leg" (especially a 7th generation Iranian carpet that covers an entire wall), it's no wonder that Mukherjee admits his accountants are "reeling in shock". You step into a historic world. 22 vintage hand painted chandeliers, an Iranian carpet that has passed over half a dozen hands, 400 Ittar bottles, 52 antique rugs, including a 7th generation Iranian carpet, period calendar art from the 20s, hand-wound clocks, courtyard pillars from Gujarat , recycled colonial furniture and finally block printed chintz curtains.The dim chandeliers set the mood. You revel in each moment. That was the primary idea, Sabyasachi wants people to enjoy the space, buying a piece of his work comes secondary.The dressing room has fun superstar mirror lights. The ones you see in actors vanity vans and model changing areas. They really bring out your inner superstar.The attention to detail is impeccable. Some being the artwork having embroidered frames. His signature fine antique embroidery. Ittar bottles lining the shelves are glued to avoid change in placement. I believe every space must have a dash of greenery. There are plants all around which are brought out everyday for sunlight. The restroom have a antiquated copper spout emerging out a tarnished mirror.
The Sabyasachi store - travel back in the time.
The Sabyasachi store - travel back in the time.
Packaging Design
The packaging of the Sabyasachi bridal trousseau is done in a major linen trunk made of wood. The outer face of the trunk is finished with red velvet in the colour of Sabyasachi red and the inner faces have a printed material to keep the couture protected constantly for a ageless period. The motif or emblem of the Bengal Tiger is put on the top face of the trunk to represent the brand. The Jewelry and accessories are packaged in similar small boxes made of wooden finishing or false cowhide is utilized in the colours of browan, beige and red and contain the brand logo on the top as well. The subtleties on the packging is sophisticated and minimal. The size of the case relies on the product that is to be packaged inside it.
LIGHTS, CAMERA & ACTION!
Celebrating 20 years of Sabyasachi
The designer hosted special and intimate brunch in celebration of completion of 20 years of the brand at his Kolkata Mansion. Guests, including the countries top fashion editors, played nostalgiainducing games, sipped on champagne and lunched on a beautiful European spread that included homemade bread. The pictures showed guests sitting all round him on beautiful pastel Sabyasachi printed cushions, playing round after round of Tambola, with the hope to win prizes, which included jewellery, home products and saris from his collections. There were two rounds of Tambola and the prizes that included Art Works by Artists supported by The Sabyasachi Art Foundation and Shawls/Duppatas/Saris/Chand Balas from his brand and some from the Sabyasachi Curiosity, Art and Antiquity project. One of the most popular confectioners in the city Kookie Jar-had catered the food that included lots of salads, grilled meats and vegetables, bruschetta and the quintessential Bengali fried fish served in a paper cone! The dessert had everyone going for a second helping.
Band Baaja Bride Band Baajaa Bride With Sabyasachi is a popular show on television where a bride is treated like a princess. Every Indian bride dreams to be a Sabyasachi bride on her wedding day. Sabyasachi is a popular name in the industry today who is famous for all the mesmerizing wedding dresses. In the show, couples from across India, irrespective of their social status are featured for their unique love stories, and struggles and conquests. Those selected in the audition are given a "Sabyasachi Makeover" for their special day which inlcudes being dressed in the designer's signature clothes and jewellery, hair and make up styling, dermatologist and dental appointments, dance lessons, spa therapy and much more. "This show has opened a whole new world for me. Wide reach and access, yes but more importantly it has made high fashion more democratic" says the Designer.
Toast of Town
"There is nothing more comforting than being surrounded by strong women"
With the guest list of dancers, critics and patrons of art, designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee lets in his home for an exclusive tea party with a handful of women who inspire him. A relaxed evening filled insightful conversations, nostalgia, darjeeling tea, Pottery barn x Sabyasachi serveware and food that included freshly baked, cakes, cookies and baked goodies and confectionery.
" Sada Saubhagyawati Bhava " The Sabyasachi Celebrity Showcase
COLLABORATIONS
Says Mukherjee, “These collections are actually inspired by homes in North Calcutta. I have seen the most beautiful tea sets from England in some of the most splendid homes and clubs in Calcutta. I have also grown up with a lot of Devonshire pottery in the house. It uses a particular rose mather indigo and earthy brown and cream. I am inspired by the way they paint pretty landscapes on their tea sets. For me, this collaboration is a re-imagination of all of that.”
Sabyasachi for Thomas Goode India plays a pivotal role in the design ideology of the very first Sabyasachi x Thomas Goode collaborative dinner plates. Local flora and fauna, architecture, fables, and parables are recreated through a hyper imaginative lens of Sabyasachi and handrendered by the 43 artists from the Sabyasachi Art Foundation. The new collection includes bespoke dinner service service range comprising main dinner plates, side plates, dessert plate, bowls, platters, tea/coffee cup and saucer set, tea post, creamer and sugar box, glassware, the finest table linen and other decorative delights that encapsulate beauty, craftsmanship, and luxury. This important initiative between Thomas Goode and Sabyasachi was conceptualised to meet the demand from India's wedding and gifting market. This is a unique opportunity for couples to own something very special from Sabyasachi, to commemorate their nuptials. The wedding trousseau was to be delivered in Thomas Goode's handcrafted luxury shipping case for a bride to embark on a new journey with treasured possessions.
Sabyasachi X L'oreal Paris This collaboration between Sabyasachi and L'Oréal Paris, was for a limited-edition festive makeup 21 - piece collection that had Aishwarya Rai Bachchan as the face. The idea for the product line was born in Mukherjee's hometown Kolkata, is inspired by the home of the beauty label, Paris, and was a blend of glamour and the essence of celebration. The campaign for the line was shot in front of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. The range included a number of makeup essentials for a classic, timeless look. Sabyasachi wanted the range to feel classic and simple because, as he believes, classic is unforgettable. He wanted to create makeup that is more about stronger, lasting identity, so he opted for a winged black eyeliner offset by red lipsticks – the look that has a certain je ne sais quoi about it and yet can be described as an iconic Indian beauty look. The collection included nine Colour Riche Moist Matte Lipsticks in a harmony ranging from soft beige to hot pink. There was also a Super Liner Black Lacquer Liquid Eyeliner and L’Oréal Volume Million Lashes volumizing mascara. The packaging is also simple, yet bold and elegant. It combines smooth black surfaced with metallic gold elements – a design inspired by a fountain pen that one of his team was using. The range also included Sabayasachi Makeup Kits, each featuring a shade of lipstick, a black eyeliner, and a mascara, presented in a special Sabyasachi designed makeup bag made of soft-touch faux leather.
Modern beauty is about being carefree and casual,” the designer told his 2.6 million followers, when introducing the new collection online. “Wear your makeup effortlessly. Makeup shouldn’t wear you down. A red mouth, a winged liner, sun-kissed, wind-swept hair and a simple, classic saree creates a look that is iconic, yet simple to achieve. It has a certain je ne sais quoi about it.”
“For me, classic is iconic, because classic is unforgettable,” the designer said. “The whole world is moving towards a state of effective simplicity where classic will lead the way. Makeup will be more about a stronger, lasting identity. A winged black liner with a bold red mouth offset with a simple saree and wind-swept hair is perhaps an iconic Indian beauty look.”
Sabyasachi X Pottery Barn The collection, described by Pottery Barn as “global vintage-inspired decor” ranges from dinnerware to jewellery boxes, home linen, table tops and holiday ornaments. With this, Sabyasachi has carried his trademark aesthetic across borders once again. The dinnerware is resplendent with floral patterns and a sense of the forest – colourful birds, animals and flowers grace the salad plates making them almost impossible to eat out of. The home linen collection consists of throw pillows, quilts, rugs can be found to have intricate brocade, vintage floral patterns and big, bold colours. The reversible clock print quilts can be paired with the Octavia accent table, giving the room instant warmth and flair with little effort. The jewellery boxes are perfect little keepsakes to perch on top of your dressing table. This is his first foray into the home furnishings segment, and features over 50 pieces that range from textiles to décor pieces. We are in love with the salad plates, brocade furnishings and jewelry boxes, all stamped with classic botanical prints that make us dream of a time gone by. The motifs have been designed by artists who are a part of The Sabyasachi Art Foundation, established to give indigenous crafts people recognition for their craft and a way to earn their livelihood.
“Recently, the brand has been channeling a very global nomad sort of feel inspired by and produced in different parts of the world, which aligns perfectly with my ideology of mixing many cultures. I wanted to make objects to help someone time travel to all those places.” Mukherjee's inspirations range from Paul Gauguin’s “supersaturated, sun-dried” colors to Frida Kahlo’s free spirit, all blended with distinctly Indian influences. “India has such a strong sense of self, but it’s more than just the land of snake charmers and elephants,” he says. “Its design has permeated many countries over centuries in textiles, furniture, and lighting. This collection is another extension of its impact on home decor.”
Sabyasachi X Asian Paints From painted fabrics of the Coromandel coast and heritage embroideries, the designer’s signature old-world Calcutta motifs and miniature prints from colonial-era Murshidabad—Mukherjee doesn’t challenge his collaborators alone, he also challenges us, it began with him making us open our wardrobes and now he makes us open our homes to experiment, play and seek joy and pleasure from the possibilities of great design. The first collaboration between Sabyasachi and Asian Paints named Nilaya collection, included three vivid themes—Baug, Udeypore and Indienne—that pay an ode to the ateliers of Vrindavan, the master painters of Murshidabad, the delicate prints of Coromandel textiles as well as the magnificent art and architecture of India’s palaces. The second collection called Chapter II: India Revival Project, since their first in 2015, featured intricately detailed wallpaper patterns, derived from Mukherjee's experiences, travels and interrogation into the history and culture of India—especially through its folklore, antique textiles, indigenous techniques, exuberant embroideries, and decadence of art, design and architecture. The project took 11 months to complete, the process of which involved the designer working with 43 artists from Sabyasachi Art Foundation to recreate the patterns that Sabyasachi Mukherjee drew from his immediate surroundings—be it the Royal Bengal tiger that he spotted as a child at the Alipore Zoo in Kolkata, or the Taj Mahal, the most loved icon of beauty and magnificence, or his home in north Kolkata. His loyalty to floral themes comes back, so do his motifs depicting animals. The collection is about the best fabrics, be it pure linens, mulmuls, silks or velvets, it’s about weaving in motifs and designs that reflect the sensibilities of our shared cultural heritage and a connectedness through our shared cultural consciousness.
Sabyasachi X Christian Louboutin Kindred spirits Christian Louboutin and Sabyasachi are pleased to present an exclusive, ultra-limited edition capsule collection for women and men. Couture tradition is invigorated with creative electricity and sheer joie de vivre, as new and classic Christian Louboutin styles are reinvented and hand-crafted, each one-of-a-kind and some made-to-measure, in the most exquisite sari fabrics.The exclusive collection sees 15 women's styles and four menswear styles created using sarees and ribbons from Mukherjee's atelier archive - cut-offs which have been kept and treasured - making each pair totally original and totally unique. Featured in the collection are nearly a dozen Women’s shoe styles, including an exquisite thigh-high boot crafted with delicate leather strips designed to harness and highlight the leg. Aptly named Tall and Deep, a very few pairs will be available worldwide as an exclusive, made-to-measure item. For Men, Christian Louboutin chose to revisit select iconic styles from his collections. Dandelion loafer received the Sabyasachi magic touch with an embroidered toe-cap recalling traditional Indian wedding shoes while Louis Junior is transformed into an incredibly rich patchwork of motifs and colours.The Piloutin, an evening bag designed to look like a precious pillow, was created from incredible Sabyasachi sari ribbons collection. An adorable Poupette handbag charm was created to complement the bags, adorned with embroidered ribbons and crystals. The spirit of this collection is hipster meets steam punk meets whimsical baroque. Up close, you will notice the choice materials used to manifest their vision are as diverse as cork, leather, raffia, pony hair and different kinds of embroidery sourced from all over India.
Sabyasachi X H&M The celebrated Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee has collaborated with the Swedish conglomerate for his new range ‘Wanderlust’. Made for the new tribe of global nomads, this collection, titled, Wanderlust, is inclusive, generation-fluid and conscious. Fanny packs snake around kaftan-style dresses in muted tones, signet rings and stacked wrists garnish unlikely coords, and layers of cool chintz find tailored denims. Wanderlust is collection that could journey seamlessly from a palace in Jaipur to a pool party in LA. The collection is simple, easy and lightweight, a mix - and - match. Wanderlust is versatile, something you can wear from morning to night, all over the world and across cultures—it picks up a lot from India, but also from Morocco, Istanbul and Japan. A perfect travel wardrobe which is an individualist, rich in quality, beautiful and glamorous. As per the brand, the collection takes cues from India’s rich textile, craft and history, and mixes modern and traditional silhouettes with a nod towards athleisure and glamping. A key highlight of this collection will be Indian textile and print traditions brought to life by the Sabyasachi Art Foundation, meticulously crafted, embroidery and multicultural silhouettes, they will feature the unmissable Bengal tiger—Sabyasachi’s signature logo.
Sabyasachi Jewellery X Bergdorf Goodman Sabyasachi collaborated with the US luxury department store Bergdorf Goodman to showcase handcrafted pieces of fine, and bohemian jewelry collections - Sudder, Bengal Royale, and Chowringhee at a selling exhibition, in Bergdorf. The Sudder collection is inspired by the Sudder street, Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi thinks that, if there is one street that sums up the city of joy, it is perhaps the Sudder street. He explains how, as a young Indian fashion designer, he used to sit in Sudder Street to sketch foreign tourists traveling to India in search of Nirvana. That energy was colorful and cultural the collection reflects all of it and more. The Sudder collection has uncut diamonds, emeralds, rubies, spinels, jade, turquoise, tourmalines, agates, cat’s eye, all mashed up with global motifs. The second collection, Chowringhee, takes inspiration from Calcutta’s most iconic street, Chowringhee road. Chowringhee collection is the window to the halcyon days of Calcutta when ladies, were spotted in coiffured hair, organza sarees, and cross-culture. This collection gives vintage Calcutta vibes with modern eclecticism. It has rose cut diamonds paired with emeralds. The last Bengal Royale’s essence arises from the 1920’s strong, vibrant, and electric Calcutta. The 65-piece Haute Joaillerie collection featured strong, vibrant, statement pieces made with uncut diamonds, rubies, pearls, emeralds, sapphires, and amethysts. Designed with European style in mind, but staying true to the authenticity of Indian history.
Sabyasachi X Bergdorf Goodman For the second edition of collaboration between Sabyasachi and Bergdorf Goodman, the designer brings a new collection of 250 pieces featuring his trademark prints and colours, across a range of ready-to-wearready to wear, scarves, shawls, fine jewellery and even a new line of bags. Coming to the collection, the clothes, shawls, and bags are an exciting mix of vibrant colors with just a few pieces portraying his signature monochromatic designs, quilted silk trench coats in solid colours and loungewear, his signature hyper, mix-media printed kaftans, pashmina scarves and 24K gold Benarsi saris make the collection. Replete with floral prints and intricate karigari, the attires are a true testament to India’s crafts and heritage. “There are totes, exciting new shapes, and they are all a collaborative effort between Calcutta, Milan, and Florence,” explains Mukherjee. Leather from Italy, embroideries and hardware from the jewellery atelier in Kolkata, and production in the world’s best manufacturing in Italy, come together in this bag line. The collection and campaign imagery are in his signature palette and is one of his youngest and breeziest iterations yet. The clothes could easily be gender agnostic (he echoes this generation’s voice — conversations on sexuality and gender are no longer debates and should be beyond controversy).
" ...Blue hair and silk trench coats..."
Sabyasachi X The Taj The couturier wields craftsmanship and old-world charm in the 'Cinema Suite' at the Taj 51 Buckingham Gate Suites and Residences London. Filled to its brim with exquisite tapestry, paintings of movie stars and handpicked artefacts, the space is an expression of art that brings together cinema—Hollywood, Bollywood and from around the world—and the grandeur of the red carpet into one unified design celebration. The living room of the Cinema Suite at Taj 51 Buckingham Gate is its epicenter—it is the most colourful part of the suite, boasting a grand 85-inch high definition television that comes with a Steinway Lyngdorf sound system. Illustrated in oil and tempura paintings, perched within beautiful gilded frames, movie stars surround a Chesterfield facing the television in this incredibly visual setting. Decorated with tapestries, carpets, and exquisite cushion throws, the living room is, according to the designer “the best thing the suite has to offer”. ‘Brooding' seems to be the mood of the dining room, for its covered in sheaths of wood, across many different planes. The wooden dining table with padded leather chairs have been inspired by the art deco period, vintage cut glasses have been bought in from Baccarat, and cutlery and crockery have been sourced from all over the world. A Jan Van Eyck painting transformed into a wallpaper stands out as a brilliant backdrop to the dining room. The Hollywood Bedroom has been inspired by the maharajas of the British Raj, legendary filmmakers such as Satyajit Ray, Bimal Roy— and their iconic films have influenced the design maven. Warm muted colours accompany a grand four-poster bed with Baroque mirrors and intricate brocade. “I wanted to evoke 1950s Paris in this space,” elaborates Sabyasachi Mukherjee. The study, again, was inspired by auteurs such as Francis Ford Coppola and Ingmar Bergman with cultural, sophisticated elements.
"It makes for a space to retire at night and do a bit of, you know, intelligent writing perhaps,”
Sabyasachi X Forevermark The veteran designer joined hands with Forevermark to launch an exclusive line of diamond jewellery made with rich embellishments and exquisite craftsmanship. Blending vintage artistry with the opulence of the 1920s, the Zanyah™ Collection comprises a range of enamelled diamond drop earrings and vintage style rings for men and women. The passion and romance of the roaring twenties is reflected in vibrant blue and black enamel drop earrings. This is perfectly balanced with the intricacy of cocktail, engagement and men’s diamond rings. An ode to the 15th century Italian renaissance movement. It’s a true marriage of the west and the east, two very important artistic periods to create an enchanted piece of jewellery that can be worn on special occasions and gifted to your loved ones. “Zanyah means unique and exceptional just like a Forevermark diamond with its individual inscription. It is a collection that is most true to my personal sense of style, which is more classical and minimalist. You can catch glimpses of my design philosophy in the detailing of each piece, weaving the finest Forevermark diamonds into intricate jewellery,” says Mukherjee. “The Zanyah collection draws inspiration from the magical nights of the 1920s and the cultural movements from the Italian renaissance period. It’s a true marriage of the west and the east, two very important artistic periods, to create an enchanted piece of jewellery that can be worn on special occasions and gifted to your loved ones. I had the opportunity to visit Forevermark’s Design and Innovation Centre in Milan and I was mesmerised by the architecture and creative expression that envelopes the city. I found that jewellery in Milan was reminiscent of Bengali design and easily recognised my muse for the collection.”
" Fashion and jewellery are partners in crime. They both work together in making a woman look beautiful. "
CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY
The Elephant Parade The Elephant Parade India, which was exhibited on the streets of Mumbai, as part of a campaign to raise awareness and draw attention to the plight of the endangered Asian elephant whose numbers have fallen by 90 per cent in the last 100 years. The parade consisted of 101 elephants painted by the top designers in the country and will be paraded across the city and the sculptures will be displayed at public spots and was touted as India's largest public art event. The groves of the Sundarbans come alive on an elephant shaped sculpture created by designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee and painted by The Sabyasachi Art Foundation. The forests seem to be redolent with mysteries, akin to the ones in Enid Blyton’s The Magic Faraway Tree—which was among Mukherjee’s favourite childhood reads. His interpretation of the Sundarbans is just one of the 101 elephant sculptures that was showcased across India as part of The Elephant Parade. The campaign had been organised by Elephant Family— an NGO dedicated to protecting the endangered Asian elephant. The purpose of the exhibition in India was to generate vital funds to secure 101 elephant corridors across the country for the species, which face the risk of displacement through fragmentation of habitat.
The Animal Ball Hosted by The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall, The Animal Ball 2019 took place at The Royal Residence in London, and saw The Prince and The Duchess wear masks designed by Mukherjee. The Animal Ball celebrates the most endangered wildlife on the planet—and this year, the fundraising event was held on June 19 in London. An initiative by the Elephant Family (which aims to protect Asian elephants and their natural habitat), the annual charity ball saw 24 iconic fashion houses and labels like Prada, Chloé, Missoni, Kenzo, Philip Treacy among others participate to raise awareness for animal conservation. The proceeds from the ball will go to the Elephant Family and their efforts to support harmony between the human population and wildlife. During the animal-themed party, the royal duo was seen sporting sparkling black masquerade masks which resembled big cats. The Bengal Tiger masks were designed by Sabyasachi himself and featured fine embroidery of handiworks over papiermache. According to Sabyasachi's post, the masks derived inspiration from Calcutta in the 1920s and jazz clubs in New Orleans. For his mask, the designer borrowed inspiration from his favourite animal, the Royal Bengal Tiger—which also happens to be his label’s logo. The masks were created by the artisans from Sabyasachi Art Foundation.
Save the Saree When this designer du jour lends his magic touch to a garment, it’s sure to fly off the racks. And trust Sabyasachi to bring handlooms back in vogue. His ‘Save the Saree’ project tries to revive this dying industry of Bengal and Andhra Pradesh and provide longevity to traditional weaving practices. Involved in the makeovers of stars like Rani Mukherjee and Vidya Balan, Sabyasachi has found fans cutting across class boundaries. The reason being, he has tried to revive the roots of this rich Indian tradition. The ‘Save the Sari’ project is one such CSR initiative by his company that seeks to support the sari weavers in their lean season and to essentially make people take pride in wearing the saris and weaves again! In this initiative he's launched saris starting as low as Rs. 1,800. The aim is to popularize the sari and save the livelihoods of weavers. The project basically looks at over 50 weavers in Andhra Pradesh and Bengal and ensures that they get work commissioned to them especially during the months of summer. With handloom industry slowly dying in our country, this initiative is a very noble one, something that many Indian designers might not indulge in. The project retails hand-woven Indian sarees on a non-profit basis priced at 3500 & the entire proceed goes to the weavers of Murshidabad. This initiative is also strongly supported by Film industry divas like Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Vidya Balan.
School Uniform for Girls "If school uniforms all over India could involve a little bit of local craft, it would become a platform for great cultural exchange and can help to establish economic stability in backward communities with local production." In a new initiative - to provide opportunity for the young girls, designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee recently collaborated with Citta organization to create uniforms for the students of Rajkumari Ratnavati Girls school in Jaisalmer. Mukerjee used Ajrakh textilem, natural dyes and the block printing technique. He also made sure that the design of the uniform was traditional and native to Rajasthan. That is the reason he chose the Ajrakh, which is a traditional textile from the region. The blue and maroon dress has a centre-front hook button detail and two patch pockets in the front. The thing that stands out in the uniform and makes it traditional is the Ajrakh print. The outfit has three-fourth sleeves with buttons and pockets on both sides. The elastic at the waist provides comfort with beauty.
Sabyasachi Art Foundation Every Sabyasachi product is lovingly and painstakingly created by the skilled hands of artisanal craftsmen using traditional techniques passed on through generations. The House of Sabyasachi keeps artisanal craftsmanship, heritage, creativity, exceptional quality and par excellence service at the core of all its activities. Each handcrafted product is unique and each experience is memorable. The Sabyasachi Art Foundation was started by Sabyasachi and his sister as a tribute to their artist mother. Today it is an integral part of the brand both in a creative and socially responsible capacity. It strives to give indigenous artists and craftsmen due recognition and a means of livelihood. They create beautiful renditions for the brand’s couture collections as well as for the multiple artistic collaborations with lifestyle brands such as Asian Paints, Pottery Barn, etc. is lends personalisation and exclusivity to the brand and allows the brand to remain close to its design philosophy.