The Australia Times Gourmet by Sam Maulanin

THE TIMES AUSTRALIA

速

GOURMET

Vol. 3 No. 6

June 2015

GOURMET

BRANCHING OUT

Blends are the New Black'

Platform Espresso a vibrant cafe on the right trackâ&#x20AC;Ś

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EDITORS

NOTE

I’m in Tasmania and yes, it is damned cold! Luckily from you, we have a heap more winter warmers to help you get through the rest of June. Why not try the delicious laksa from Katie or learn how to make the perfect poached egg. Warm yourself up with a visit to Josef Chromy Vineyard Restaurant, find out if the Merrywell’s burger of the year winner is up to scratch, what’s happening in the foodie world at the moment and more.

GOURMET Platform Espresso..................................................8 Branching Out.......................................................22 Two Sides To Every Story - The Press Club........ 30 Melbourne Sommelier - Mark Protheroe........... 42 Josef Chromy Vineyard Restaurant.................... 46 Very Well, Merrywell............................................. 54 How to Perfectly Poach Eggs Every Time........... 58 Macadamia Spread – A game changer.............. 60 An Easy Homemade Laksa................................. 62

We have lots of wine this issue and a look into Glen Iris local Platform Espresso. Something for everyone.

Noosa International Food & Wine Festival.......... 66 Foodsploration..................................................... 82

Make yourself a hot chocolate, curl up in front of the fire and enjoy!

What’s been happening on Instagram this month............................................................ 90 Calendar of Events for Food Lovers.................... 92

DEPUTY

CONTRIBUTORS

EDITOR

Kristie Giblin

Connie Lambeth

Connie Lambeth Kerrie Howell Siahna Forward Amy Foyster

COVER IMAGE

Katie Gwynne-Hannagan

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GOURMET

Welcome Note

The GOURMET magazine is all about celebrating food in all its glory. From where produce comes from, to swish restaurants, delicious recipes and general food musings, we plan to cover it all. We aim to create a discussion about the role food plays in our lives. Whether it be sharing a meal with friends, to sitting down watching a cooking show with your family or dining out on a special occasion- food is a big part of our culture. We want this online space to be somewhere where everyone can share their thoughts, tips and tricks and ideas about food and cooking. You will find recipes, restaurant reviews, food ideas and information about new ingredients and food programs that you may never have heard of before! It is all very exciting. We welcome all sorts of feedback and suggestions and if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d like to get involved and share your foodie knowledge with Australia, please get in touch with us. Thanks and happy eating!

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Platform Espresso a vibrant cafe on the right trackâ&#x20AC;Ś By Connie Lambeth Images by Platform Espresso/Connie Lambeth

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GOURMET “Melbourne is to coffee what coffee

“Simply put, Platform Espresso exists

is to Melbourne” is a favourite saying of

to provide for the lovers of great food

the pair behind Glen Iris’s favourite local,

and coffee”.

Platform Espresso, aptly named with the

A key to training staff to the desired level

railway station just a few steps down the

of expectation, is to explain the equal

line. Though Patty Karakostas and Pete

standing of food, coffee and service. The

Elston are committed to serving up a

duo also like to encourage wait staff to treat

stellar brew designed to clear the headiest

people the way they would like to be treated

morning fog, they believe there are three

when at a cafe. Patty’s background in PR

important elements in running a cafe:

and Marketing means that playing host

“food, coffee and service”. ‘Platform’,

comes naturally, her upbeat personality

tagged affectionately by locals, kicked off

setting a positive tone for the place.

at the start of 2013, immediately filling

Patrons appreciate the prompt attention

a gap in the area the couple were keen

and welcoming atmosphere, returning

to redress. With one or both owners on

regularly for a takeaway coffee on the way

the floor seven days a week, maintaining

to the train, or a weekend brunch with

quality is assured.

friends. As head barista, Pete’s easy

Simply put, Platform Espresso exists to provide for the lovers of great food and coffee.

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going style with people, while working

Maling Room, a speciality coffee micro-

the La Marzocco Espresso Machine with

roaster in Canterbury. They are more

dedicated precision, promotes a sense of

than happy with the switch to a roaster

calm and stability amongst the buzz. Each

with accolades including Winner of Best

with their own distinct brand of ensuring

Boutique Roastery 2013 (The Age Good

the cafe runs smoothly, the duo’s passion

Food Guide). They mention that it’s all

for their craft is a uniting force.

about understanding the roasting and

There’s no question that Melbourne is a

bean process, with Andrew at The Maling

city which takes the business of coffee

Room offering exceptional support. The

very seriously, and Platform Espresso is

couple agree that 1-1 with the roaster is

no exception. After a lot of research and

the key to getting the best coffee out to

originally going with another Melbourne

the consumer.

roaster, the pair opted to swap to The

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GOURMET “Seasonally blended speciality coffee roasted in Melbourne, compliments our menu or does our menu compliment our coffee? You decide”. ‘The art of making good coffee’ is one way to put it when thinking of a skilled barista turning out the perfect cup with creative flair, however for some, there’s a degree of science involved too. Pete, a former engineer, has long held an interest in anything pertaining to the field, so naturally science beakers come to play for components of their speciality coffees. The contemporary fit out successfully blends ‘hip’ with ‘chill’, and the science paraphernalia, along with assorted coffee gadgetry, combine to add a dash of ‘quirky’ to the decor. There are two distinct groups of patrons heading through the door, with Platform popular during the week with the business crowd, while on weekends the locals mob the place for brunch. Even Year 12 students stop for a coffee after school to get through hours of study, with Patty wisely acknowledging the youth as “patrons of

the future”. There is a definite sense of community, a ‘loving my local’ feel about

Platform, which has evolved as a result of genuine passion, hard work and a focus on good service. Most of the staff employed at the cafe are drawn from the local area and only leave for good reason, such as completion of their studies. The duo have a discerning approach

selecting

new

people,

particularly wait staff, who have to be a Independent Media

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‘good fit’ for their cafe. Characteristics they look for include someone who ‘has a warm and friendly personality, is ‘on the ball’, plus has a willingness to learn’. Though Patty and Pete initially intended to open on week days only, they soon realised how much the locals needed a place to hang out on weekends, somewhere they could get good food and coffee, therefore the seven day week keeps everyone satisfied! Last Christmas they even decided to open on Christmas morning, as ‘The Iris’ grapevine revealed that people were begging for a caffeine rich brew to kickstart their festivities. Sure enough, the queue snaked out the door and up the footpath, with patrons waiting to grab coffee and pastries before heading off to family festivities!

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GOURMET

The couple, who have been together

of pizza chefs…the only person in

for ten years and both still just twenty

Australia with a degree in pizza making

seven, went travelling overseas for six

and with awards for the Best Pizza in

or so months before opening Platform

Australia”. They also completed a Salumi

Espresso. During this time they both came

course, and hung out on the Mornington

to the conclusion that a cafe venture would

Peninsula learning how to create their

be one way of seeing each other, as Pete’s

own sparkling wine at Foxeys Hangout.

engineering job involved a fair bit of travel.

This early genuine interest in food and

Experiencing Europe inspired the pair and

beverage, as well as a quiet determination

helped their ideas evolve, and while in

and intelligence, has no doubt contributed

London, they completed Barista training

to their understanding of the importance

at the renowned Prufrock.

of quality and consistency.

Food and Beverage courses were far from

They never imagined the business would

a novelty for the self-confessed foodies,

fail, in fact it was bound to succeed, as each

with courses undertaken in earlier years,

went in with low expectations! Patty does

including pizza making at 400 Gradi,

mention that her parents were ‘scared for

where they “learnt from the master

them’, which isn’t surprising considering

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An intimate room at the back plays host to small weddings and christenings

their tender age at the time, combined

well as coming up with the brilliant nameâ&#x20AC;Ś

with untested waters as new cafe owners.

Platform Espresso says it all so succinctly!

However once Platform Espresso was

Her sister helped with the design of the

up and running, parental support has

original interior and her mother sewed the

continued resolute. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one thing to be a

cushions for the bench seats, the textiles

foodie and quite another to open a cafe

balancing well with the light timbered

without prior experience, although Pete

finishes. Meanwhile a tiler friend shared his

had done hospitality in secondary school

skills, while an artist friend crafted creative

and worked in cafes during uni. Even so,

blackboard mounts. A revamp over the

it takes a degree of courage and self-

summer break was pretty much done by

belief to step into the unknown. They were

the couple, who second time around felt

surprised just how quickly the cafe was

experienced enough to tackle the project

embraced by the community, reinforcing

minus their support crew. The effect is a

that this pocket of Glen iris was begging

mix of understated sophistication with a

for a local haunt which served up great

personal and inviting feel. There are plenty

food and coffee.

of seating options for singles, couples and

Patty acknowledges there was plenty of

small families, while larger groups are

family support, particularly in the planning

catered for in the handsome room at the

and early stages of setting up their cafe.

rear, which also plays host to christenings

Her brother-in-law runs several food

and weddings.

businesses and is an excellent mentor, as

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Patty is of Greek heritage, and in the early months of opening the doors at Platform

Espresso,

her

cultural

background

influenced the menu somewhat. Getting a feel for what dishes were popular and the kind of eatery the suburb was craving for, led to their decision to lean more to the kind of cafe they describe as “very Melbourne”. Picking up the right cues is obviously a smart move, with a regular energetic buzz the clear indicator of a cafe having ‘found its groove’. They have been fortunate in finding good chefs who are up to speed in creating on trend dishes, with the duo insistent on

Avocado, Minted Peas, Marinated Fetta with Poached Egg & Fresh Herbs on Pesto Toast

attention to detail. They expect a chef to have their finger on the pulse, describing their menu as “traditional with a twist.” There are three chefs dishing up the ‘food talent’…a head chef, second chef and apprentice chef. The apprentice is a female,

Catering Sandwiches

which reinforces Patty’s belief in “making

sure girls get a go”, describing herself as a bit of a “feminist”. The partners share with Gourmet their Top Three Platform Dishes, expressing that “the seasons dictate the menu, while the regional produce inspires sumptuous, innovative breakfast and lunch creations”: • Avocado, Minted Peas, Marinated Feta with Poached Egg and Fresh Herbs on Pesto Toast • Beetroot and Zucchini Fritters with Minted Yoghurt and Green Harissa • Pulled Chicken Salad with Lentils, Quinoa, Grilled Vegetables ad Lime Yoghurt Dressing 16

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We put Pete and Patty through their paces to glean a bit more on what they’re about! Here’s what they came up with: Favourite Cafe? Prufrock in London where we did our Barista Training Favourite Restaurant? Cumulus Inc (Melbourne) Favourite Area? Anywhere near the beach Who Cooks at Home? Mostly Pete Days Off? Consist of more food experiences, trying out the newest cafe or restaurant. Or good old bookwork! Talk Shop at Home? All the time! Hardest Part about Running a Cafe? Early starts…especially getting up at 5.30 for a 6.30 start to be ready for 7am opening Keeping up with Trends? Checking out other cafes and eating out in general. Travelling interstate and overseas. Our 6 months travelling around Europe had a significant influence here The Future? Platform Espresso is our ‘baby’ and we just love what we do. We may get onto some kind of food-related project this year as well. Catering? Yes this is a regular happening, catering for businesses and hospitals in the area when there’s a meeting or event

And advice to anyone thinking of starting up a cafe?

• Be adaptable, flexible and open to change

• Encourage continual evolvement

• Roll with the punches

• Put on your ‘happy face’

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This is one accomplished pair definitely on track to keep on providing “for the lovers of great food and coffee at Platform Espresso”. Check out the following websites if keen to know more: 400 Gradi 99 Lygon St East Brunswick Vic 3057 03 9380 2320 (other locations)

The Maling Room 206 Canterbury Rd Canterbury Vic 3126 03 9836 9889 www.malingroom.com.au

Breakfast & Brunch Restaurant Boutique Roaster

Prufrock 23-25 Leather Lane London EC1N 7TE United Kingdom +44 20 7242 0467

www.400gradi.com.au

Johnny Di Francesco (Pizzaiolo/Chef/Restaurateur) First Australian ever trained in Naples to the Association Veracendizza Napoletana VPN rules The Association’s Australasian Principal

Foxeys Hangout 795 Whitehill Rd Red Hill Vic 3937 03 5989 2022

www.prufrockcoffee.com

www.foxeys-hangout.com.au

Space for larger groups

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GOURMET

We look forward to Patty Karakostas and Pete Elston sharing their knowledge and expertise on all matters pertaining to coffee in an upcoming issue of Gourmet. Platform Espresso create such great coffee that last year they were asked to be part of a Coffee Book, and can be quoted as saying: “We always seek a memorable coffee. If it can be confused with, or tastes like ten others then we wouldn’t choose it”. Platform Espresso 1529 High St. Glen Iris Vic 3146 ph: 03 9886 0951 www.platformespresso.com.au Speciality Coffee/Breakfast & Lunch Open 7 Days Independent Media

The Speciality Coffee Book: Victoria by Jonette George and Ethan Jenkins Smudge Publishing 2014 www.smudgepub.com.au

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JUST DO

Sho

ShoutFor

O-NATE.

out.

rGood.com

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GOURMET

BRANCHING OUT

Blends are the New Black By Kerrie Howell Images courtesy of MONA/Remi Chauvin, Moorilla Estate, Tasmania

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MONA/RĂŠmi Chauvin, Image Courtesy Moorilla, Tasmania, Australia

As I am a new contributor who is trying to build up a solid reader base, (and not get anyone offside) I am yet again going to address sauvignon blanc in this column. As I have mentioned before, it is my intention to get you all trying and enjoying OTHER varieties (hence the name of my column). As such, I have come up with a solution if anybody feels that time away from their kiwi savvy blanc is getting all too much. Here it is. Pack a passionfruit in a brown paper bag. If you start to feel any twinge of uneasiness, inhale deeply. This action has a dual purpose. It will calm your nerves whilst administering that passionfruity hit that you are craving. Right, let’s get on with it. 24

Winter is here. Usually this is the time for cracking open the reds. This month I am focussing on blends. In fact, I would even go so far as to say “blends are the new black”. There you go, I just quoted myself. What I love about drinking a good blended wine is the comfort and harmony of them. They can be great value for money too, and that certainly doesn’t mean they are all of poor quality. In fact, I enjoyed “Brokenwood Cricket Pitch cabernet/ shiraz/ merlot/ petit verdot” blend for around the $15 mark. I found there to be lots going on in my glass. There were lovely berry nuances and a whiff of violets, as well as a little eucalypt and some vanilla oak. The oak didn’t overpower the palate, rather was balanced by red berries and a little bit of plum with enough acidity to round out the experience.

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This was really pleasant to drink. In factand I don’t encourage this exactly, but you really don’t need to have any food with this at all. This wine was lovely just on it’s own. I find that this happens frequently with blended wines. There is enough to be gained from the glass as you taste the best parts of the different varieties. This is what I meant by harmony. With a really special blend, harmony and balance really comes to the fore. Example, and I know I have spoken about these people before, but Moorilla do an outstanding example of blended wines in their “cloth label “range. The cloth label range is from their St Matthius estate, north of Launceston. A few months back I interviewed Conor van der Reest, the Chief Winemaker there. In our chat, we were discussing the terrible rap that blended wines often get. Conor Independent Media

said that much of this came about “based on a business decision made decades ago”. Conor is referring to the way in which some winemakers bottle the left-overs from different varieties together under the one label and sell it at a discounted price. The slops, so to speak. Unfortunately this practice has tarnished the reputation of some very purposefully blended wines. Speaking of purposeful blending, the 2012 Moorilla cloth label red contains pinot noir, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and Riesling. Yes you read that correctly- a white in amongst the reds. Wine educator Sophie Otton’s description found in the ‘Cloth Label Series’ by Moorilla booklet, of the final addition of Riesling in this particular blend is “it binds the different tannins of the

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Conor van der Reest

winemaker photograp

Moorilla vineyard a 26

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GOURMET red varieties: the velvet tannin of the pinot to the astringent t annin of the cabernet. The Riesling acts as a conduit between the various reds, harmonising the finished wine”. This reminds me of when I am making a sauce. At the end, I will add a knob of butter for sheen and to amalgamate it, bringing it all together. When I viewed the blending in this light, it made sense to me.

This is where I found things to get particularly interesting. Usually when I think blended I think red. Shiraz viogner or grenache shiraz mouvedre, or as we Aussies affectionately call it GSM. I rarely think white. The Moorilla 2012 cloth label white contains pinot gris, riesling, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, gewürztraminer, pinot noir. I found this description (again in Sophie Otton’s words) of Conor van der Reests handling of the wine Conor, having spent a good deal making process utterly fascinating. of time studying oenology and “by the end, , van der Reest has viticulture in France, mentions just six separate barrels of wine which how common blending is there, are then skilfully blended, such particularly in the Rhone valley that no variety is dominant but where blending grapes is not only nuances of all are discernable in commonplace, but celebrated. the culmination”. Hmmm. Slops in Think Chateuneuf –du—pape, in a bottle? I think not! More like van all its blended glory. Oh, whatever der Reest being the Conductor of a France, we can do it too! So Conor beautiful , complicated symphony. is bringing with him his knowledge of blending to the antipodes, bless So, get out there and try a blend. If him! He is expanding our minds the French are doing it, we can do with his wine-making talents. it too.

t, Moorilla

phed in the

at Mona.

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Two Sides

to every Story b u l C s s e r The P Kristie Giblin and Siahna Forward

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GOURMET

The Restaurant Kristie

Siahna

When we arrived at the grand

The Press Club has been on our

entrance door to The Press

hit list for a while and when the

Club, I was bursting to get

opportunity arose, we jumped

inside and finally experience a

at the chance to see George

restaurant which I had heard so

Calambarisâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; creations in action.

much about and was eager to

We went on a Tuesday night

experience for myself.

and on arrival were pleasantly

The long thin restaurant was very intimate with small cream leather

booths

lining

the

walkway. Along the left hand

surprised that we went on the perfect night to try the sharing menu, which is a Tuesday only treat.

side was a long thin window into

The restaurant was small and

the kitchen, allowing diners to

decorated in vintage style booth

gaze upon the delicacies which

dĂŠcor, which made the dining

were heading their way.

experience

The low lighting and rich colour scheme made for a warm environment of which I was happy to spend the next three

even

fun.

The small space means there are limited places and every person is given a more personal experience.

hours of my night. We dined on a Tuesday which meant that we had the 5 course sharing style menu. This was an excellent option for us as we are both really bad at making decisions and especially so when it comes to delicious food. We also got the accompanying beverage journey to match.

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First Course Kristie

Siahna

The first course looked mammoth and

First course was an array of nibbles like

I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sure how we were supposed to

soup with chicken and a tart jelly, as well

continue eating for four more courses

as homemade bread with prosciutto.

after it!

Each element on the sharing board

We started with the delicate chicken consume which had a lemon jelly and edible flowers. The complexity of the flavours really shocked me as the tasty broth was so delicious I wanted to pick up the cute little bowl and drink it straight

complimented each other while still managing to hold its own with the array of competing aspects of the dish. Everything was hearty and felt substantial, but still left plenty of room for the many courses of fun still to come.

down. Instead I ate like a lady with the ridiculously tiny spoon. The jelly was a surprise as the strong flavour really tore through the soup. I never would have thought to pair it, but it really did work. Next we moved onto the brioche roll which was stuffed with sweet onion and proiscutto. The bread melted in my mouth and the balance of sweet and salty was perfect. This could be easily sold off as street food Next we tried the roasted pumpkin with hommus, nuts and cream. It was very moreish and the smooth pumpkin with the nuts created a great textural composition. Finally we broke the warm bread which was enjoyed with lashings of butter, possibly my favourite part.

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GOURMET

Second Course Kristie

Siahna

This was one of the best things I have ever

Potato is the greatest food of all time. I am

eaten. I have always been a great lover of

so confident of this assertion that I am

potato and this was essentially potato four

willing to go to great lengths to prove my

ways. This dish was served by the chef who

point. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s versatile and delicious in every

stirred the silky potato cheesey sauce and

from that it takes. The Press Club decided

poured it over the top whilst explaining the

to give me some ammo in my argument

composition of the meal.

with the second course. It was potato four

The large baked potato had the perfect amount of crunch, the soft potato in the skin was so fluffy and I was in a wonderful potatoey heaven.

ways, each way being as delicious as the last. Deep fried blocks, creamed potato and everything in between to fill you with potato delight. Anyone who doubts the credibility of potato should probably look into tasting this dish before they give up on the ways of the potato.

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Third Course Kristie

Siahna

Did the waiter just say scallop doughnuts?

Third

Oh yes he did! These were such a highlight

doughnuts. The dish was overall a really

of this course that I was easily able to

nice combination of flavours, but it was

overlook the extremely confusing thyme

the scallop doughnut that really made

jelly. I know that adding a jelly is supposed

my heart skip a beat. The moment the

to add texture as well as flavour but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m just

waiter place the plate on the table, I knew

not a fan of jelly in general. This one had

something special was about to be tasted.

a very strong flavour and really confused

The scallop was so juicy and melt-in-the-

me.

mouth good, all because of the delicious

But back to the doughnut. This is an invention which should be shared with the

course

the heavenly flavours.

to be the main element of the dish) was perfectly juicy and flaked with the touch of my fork. Get rid of the jelly and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d eat this all day.

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fish

with

scallop

savoury doughnut casing which sealed in

world. The delicate fish (which was meant

was

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GOURMET

Fourth Course Kristie Pies are a good time in my opinion and topped with a beautifully caramelised onion, this take on the traditional meat pie certainly tickled my taste buds. I struggled through this course as I had so readily devoured the last three, my stomach was starting to protest. I enjoyed the crumbly pastry and robust meaty filling, it would make a welcome substitution to the usual football canteen offerings.

Siahna When the fourth course was brought to the table it look like an odd mushroom creation. Turns out it was a pie with caramelized onions on top. It was at this stage that our stomachs were getting full and each bite was becoming more and more of a struggle. Consequently this dish does not get the credit it deserves. The flavours were hearty and had that woody essence about them. If I had the space it would have filled my stomach up quite nicely.

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Fifth Course Kristie I was so full that I thought I was going to lie down in the booth and have to take a little nap. Therefore this next course was as if it never existed. As gorgeous as it was presented in a little pumpkin where they had scooped out the flesh and mixed it with hand peeled and crushed chestnuts then returned the mixture into the skin, we barely tasted it. This was accompanied by a blanched pea and kale mixture which was quite nice. I ate more of this than anything as it was so light, I barely noticed it adding to my ever expanding stomach. We were guilted into trying at least a little of the pumpkin mixture before the plate was retrieved from our table.

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Sixth Course Kristie

Siahna

As the waiter placed this chocolate delight

Sixth course was dessert course and boy

down in front of us, he made a point to

did we make room for this one. The dish

draw our attention to the dehydrated

had various chocolate elements on the

chocolate shards on the plate. He was

plate. It was the dehydrated chocolate

right in letting us know that these were

that kept us talking though, with the taste

the highlight of the dish with their Milo

and texture being reminiscent of Milo,

like flavour. The chocolate brownie was a

some very fancy Milo. I love a good dessert

delight and everything had its place on the

at the best of times, but this dessert was

plate. I was so pleasantly surprised that I

something else. My biggest qualm when

was able to fit anything more in but I am

it comes to desserts, usually relates

so glad I pushed myself to devour just a

back to them being too rich and sweet.

little more.

This dessert had the perfect balance and meant it didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t overwhelm the palette and remained delicious with every bite.

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Drinks Kristie I was a bit apprehensive about the ouzo which we started our beverage journey with, but I powered on through

and

was

pleasantly

surprised with the rest of the matches. I especially enjoyed the reds where the fuller body of the wine seemed to make the food really shine. Exactly as they should.

Siahna We chose to get the accompanying wines for the meal, which was a wise choice.

Each wine perfectly

complimented the flavours and textures of the dishes perfectly. The wines choices enabled our meal to be enjoyed to the fullest and brought out the best in both the wine and the food.

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Final Thoughts Kristie

Siahna

I am so satisfied that I have now ventured

The Press Club was a small and intimate

to such a prestigious restaurant. Although

setting that enabled the best atmosphere

I wish I had more room to have enjoyed the

for an enjoyable meal. The waiters knew

second half of the evening as much as the

every detail about the dishes and wine

first, overall it was an excellent experience

and were eager to share their depth of

where I certainly left more than satisfied.

knowledge. I left The Press Club feeling full

From the chefs to the waitstaff and the

and satiated, which at the end of the day is

luxurious bathrooms in the back, they all

all you can ask for.

worked together like a well oiled machine to make the evening thoroughly enjoyable.

The Press Club 72 Flinders street Melbourne, VIC 03 9677 9677 http://www.thepressclub.com.au/

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Melbourne Sommelier Mark Protheroe Text and images by Amy Foyster Mark Protheroe is one of Melbourne’s top sommeliers, having worked in many of Australia’s chef hatted restaurants and for some of the world’s most famous culinary icons. Protheroe‘s original interest in the profession of sommelier was the link between winemaking and agriculture. “My origins are in the Riverina and the ability to return the story to farmers and the base ingredient is something I find quite provocative,” explains Protheroe. Before Protheroe travelled the globe, working with some of the world’s top restauranteurs, he started his career in Beechworth, Victoria. The Parlour and Pantry in Beechworth

was a one chef hat venue at the time and according to Protheroe, had a great collection of local and imported wines. After three years he headed to Melbourne, with his first role at Melbourne institution, Brunetti, as the Trattoria manager, before moving to Vue de Monde to take on a commis sommelier role. After he left Vue de Monde, Protheroe went to Sails in Noosa to take on the Sommelier role before getting married and moving to the UK, to further his wine studies in London. “While I was in the UK I did a seven week contract at the International Wine Challenge helping to run the back of house,” says Protheroe. “I was the Commis Sommelier at Gordon Ramsay’s three Michelin starred Royal Hospital Road. “At another stage I was the wine department supervisor at Valvona and Crolla in Edinburgh and also the manager at WoodWinters Wines and Whiskies in a town called Bridge of Allan.” After returning to Australia, Protheroe spent a few years working at Charcoal Grill on the

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Hill before taking his role with Grossi Restaurants five years ago. Last year, Protheroe competed in the inaugural Australia’s Best Sommelier Competition. He says that the event was a nerve wracking one, with the competitors tasting, theory and practical skills all being tested. “It was a great honour to make the finals where once again we had to show our skills in the three previously mentioned categories, however this time it was on stage in front of other competitors and spectators at Ormond Hall in St Kilda. “I was very happy to finish in the top three with Franck Moreau, who was crowned a worthy winner.” Since starting with the Grossi restaurants, Protheroe has honed his already impeccable skills in Italian wine and food matching. He says that Italian wine has a broad ranging style and for him, this is the most unique aspect of Italian wine. “I am particularly fond of the two regions with active volcano’s- Sicily and Campania. The way their dishes and wines have been fine-tuned over centuries is something we can’t replicate yet in Australia.” In addition to wine, Protheroe is also a beer expert. Some of his favourite Australian beers at the moment include the Bridge Road Brewery beers from Beechworth. Another is Costa at La Sirene. “He has taken a different route to most focusing on Saison’s,” says Protheroe.

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“His love for exploring the world of yeasts active in beer making is contagious.”

reflection of my mood and what I am eating.”

Protheroe says he is lucky to work with a plethora of top producers and professionals who inspire him on a daily basis.

Protheroe’s top tips for amateurs when choosing wines:

“To see someone work on crafting an authentic, high quality product that possesses a real story is worthy of celebration in my eyes. From an industry perspective, people like Patrick Walsh, Grant Van Every and Ben Edwards who helped to forge a career path for Sommeliers in Melbourne, deserve a lot of praise. They have laid down great foundations for the current breed of Sommeliers coming through.” And what are Protheroe’s favourite wines and beers? He describes himself as having “some sort of attention deficit disorder for both”. “I would be very happy to drink a different type each day. For me they are often a

“Go to a good wine store or cellar door and seek the advice of someone who is knowledgeable. Be clear on your budget and have a bit of an idea about what you are serving it with.” “I tend to look for intensity and texture as my main guides for achieving a great match with food. Contrary to most beliefs flavour profile matching is not always the most important thing to think of.” “The quality and diversity that is currently on offer from the Australian wine industry is awe-inspiring. There are so many wineries doing great things I would implore more people to get to one of our local wine regions and give them a chance to share their stories.”

Amy treks around Melbourne checking out the latest culinary trends. To read more interviews with industry experts and find out the latest foodie news visit: www.tradingplates.com.au

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Josef Chromy V i n e y a r d

R e s t a u r a n t

By Kristie Giblin

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It has become an expectation that if you have an award winning vineyard, you would also have an equally as spectacular restaurant attached to it.

Josef Chromy vineyard are certainly living up to this stereotype. Set in the picturesque Relbia, just outside of Tasmania’s largest northern city, Launceston, you can see why so many have been choosing to have their weddings here. Surrounded by rolling patchwork hills, many vine laden paddocks and a wonderful big lake, it really is a peaceful place to relax. While you’re relaxing, with wine in hand of course, why not also enjoy a bite to eat at the Josef Chromy restaurant. As you enter, you walk along the kitchen’s pass, able to ogle the delights which lay ahead. The hall then opens out into a large open plan dining area lined with floor to ceiling windows enabling you to enjoy the view while you eat. The menu selection is smaller than most and therefore, quite refined. Each item also shows

Sticky Pork Pierogi 48

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GOURMET the best wine match to enjoy with your meal. Perfectly set out to showcase the main attraction of the venue, the wine. We were presented with a lovely board of still-warm-from-theoven walnut bread and large chunks of butter sprinkled with sea salt. This was a sign of what was to come and I was extremely excited. The bread was delicious, the walnuts added great crunch and with ample amounts of butter, I could have eaten just that all day. For mains I had the Sticky Pork Pierogi which included ‘Brussels ferment, pork scratching, white cheese and warsaw sour apple cream’. It was quite a light meal and didn’t look like it was going to fill me, but I was pleasantly surprised by all that was hidden beneath the large piece of perfectly crunchy crackling atop my plate. The pork was perfect. Nestled inside the little polish dumplings (pierogi), sprinkled with cheese and brought out by the apple. Each mouthful saw me discovering more and more elements of the dish. I was in foodie heaven.

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Pasture Fed Black Angus Scotch Fillet 250g

Slow Cooked Pork Shoulder 50

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Even the ceramic wear which the food was presented on had something to uncover, having been custom made to suit the Chromy aesthetic. With most of the food, locally sourced and of course, perfectly matched with wine, this was a place you could definitely take someone to impress. We had the Sauvignon Blanc which you can read about in last monthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s issue of Gourmet Magazine.

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Frozen

Everyone else’s meals looked equally as appealing to and dessert certainly wasn’t going to be any different, as I devoured the Salted chestnut doughnut which was set alongside ‘slow baked quince and labneh’. As beautiful as it looked, I found it a little dry with the combination of the tart quince and doughnut, more labneh was needed. Still enjoyable, nonetheless. Salted Chestnut Doughnut

Overall, I had a very pleasant experience at Josef Chromy Vineyard and would love to return to sample more off their menu, especially as they are offering a two course lunch special for $45 on weekdays until September. If you ever find yourself in northern Tasmania, a visit to Josef Chromy is highly recommended for the perfect combination of food, wine and beautiful scenery.

Carrot Cake

Josef Chromy 370 Relbia Road Relbia TAS 7258 http://www.josefchromy.com.au/

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Very Well MER The word has spread far and wide of the deliciousness that is produced within the walls of Merrywell. For good reason too, its credentials are impressive and extensive, including winning ‘Melbourne’s best burger’ in 2012 and 2013. However, a lot has happened on the Melbourne Burger scene since 2013, with the competition snapping at their heels, can Merrywell still confidently hold the mantle? Heading into the Crown location, the restaurant still seems as popular as ever, with a spare table proving to be a real commodity. The ordering dilemma was taken away from me, as I was obviously going to have to try the infamous burger of the year aptly named “The Merrywell”. And anyone who knows me, knows I will always purchase the side of chips, and I also opted for an Oreo milkshake. When it comes to burgers, my tastes are simple. A well cooked and succulent patty, fluffy and soft bun, with the rest of the add-ons being a compliment to the patty, is all I need to enjoy a burger. “The Merrywell” had bacon, cheese, pickles, lettuce, tomato, onion, special sauce, ketchup and mustard as well as a beef patty, all contained in a bun. Reading the ingredients, everything seems to add up to a delicious burger, but it was too much. There was a lot of burger and everything was vying for my taste buds attention. The beef patty was cooked well and lived up to expectation, but it was the rest of the burger that slightly let it down. The Oreo milkshake was just that, a milkshake with Oreo in it. That in itself is always

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RRYWELL By Siahna Forward

going to be delicious, but it never really went beyond a good milkshake. The biggest drawback would probably be the copious amounts of whipped cream on top, which didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t enable me to saviour the Oreo deliciousness, but rather spent my time avoiding the whipped cream. It was the chips that emerged as the real hero of the meal. They were crisp, fluffy and everything you could want from deep fried potato. I could have eaten them all day. I had these grand expectations of everything the Merrywell could be and it just didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t quite live up to what I was hoping for it to be. Merrywell restaurant and bar was a delicious and enjoyable experience, but never reached that top tier I was hoping for.

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How to Perfectly Poach Eggs Every Time By Katie Gwynne-Hannagan Since learning how to perfectly poach eggs in the comfort of my own kitchen, I’ve found that treating myself to a homecooked breakfast is much more satisfying than your typical boring bowl of cereal or dry piece of toast with a smear of vegemite. With a couple of handy tips and techniques, you’ll be free from the dreaded rock-hard yolks and watery, undercooked whites, and can look forward to plump, runny,

What you’ll need: • Two fresh, free-range eggs • A small saucepan, filled about a third of the way up with water • White vinegar • A slotted spoon • A couple of small cups or ramekins to crack your eggs into • Paper towel

golden-yolked poached eggs that come out perfectly every time.

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GOURMET What to do: • Bring your water to the boil, and add in a

• Make sure your water remains at a simmer

good splash of vinegar. The vinegar helps the

and doesn’t start to bubble up over the edge

egg white to coagulate once it hits the water,

of the saucepan. You want to be as gentle as

meaning you’ll get a much rounder and more

possible.

evenly shaped poached egg.

• Crack

• The perfectly runny poached egg will only

your eggs into a separate cup or

take a couple of minutes to cook, so check

ramekin, rather than directly into the boiling

your eggs by lifting them out of the water with

water. This allows you to drop the egg in much

the slotted spoon. You want the egg white to

closer to the surface of the water, rather than

be opaque and the yolk to have a little bit of

from a great height, which means there is

give when you press it with your finger.

less chance of the yolk breaking and of your egg setting in a weird, disjointed shape.

• Before

you drop your eggs into the water,

create a sort of whirlpool with your slotted spoon. Once you’ve got steady movement, drop your eggs into the water. This will help your eggs to wrap around themselves and

• Remove the eggs and gently dab off any excess water with a bit of paper towel. You can also remove any straggly bits of egg white that may be hanging around.

• Serve

immediately on toast with whatever

accompaniments you desire.

form a nice, round shape.

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Macadamia Spread – A game changer By Kristie Giblin Nutella, you’ve got some competition!

spread appear a little less visually appearing

There’s a new deliciously nutty chocolate

than its smooth rival, it adds a crunchy peanut

spread in town and it’s vying for your

butter like element which I just can’t knock.

crown of ‘most addictive spread to eat straight out of the jar with a spoon’.

Boasted to be better for you nutritionally as ‘macadamias are a nutrition powerhouse

World, meet Macabella choc-macadamia

and contain many nutrients including heart-

spread crunch ‘a cocoa & macadamia

friendly monosaturated fatty acids’, I really

taste affair’.

can’t find a negative aspect to this tasty treat.

A scrumptious chocolatey spread with

I probably wouldn’t go melting it in warm milk

just the right amount of crunch. Perfect

for a chocolate winter drink as the chunks of

for spreading on your toast, or of course

nuts are unlikely to make for the best surprise,

eating straight from the jar (as I am right

but I definitely would try it in the recipe below.

now).

Macabella is now available at Coles and Many would argue

Woolworths supermarkets.

that Nutella is so damned that

good

you

just

couldn’t beat it,

Macabella

but

Macabella Turn Overs Makes 4

is pretty much

Ingredients:

•M acabella choc-macadamia spread

par

the

nutty-goodness-

crunch

which-I-am-now-

• 1 x Puff Pastry sheet

addicted-to stakes.

• ¼ cup Milk

Although

the

nut

• Cream/ice cream to serve

chunks may make the

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Method: • Cut pastry sheet into four squares • Place a teaspoon of Macabella into the centre of each square • Fold pastry to make a triangle • Seal sides with a fork to make a patterned edge • Brush the top with milk to ensure pastry browns • Put into a preheated 180 degree oven for 15-20mins or until golden • Serve with cream and/or ice cream

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AN EASY HOMEMADE LAKSA By Katie Gwynne-Hannagan When you think warm, comforting Asian noodle soups, most people gravitate straight towards the big names like Vietnamese pho or Japanese ramen, which are having an undeniable moment in the culinary spotlight. But for me this Winter, there’s simply nothing more satisfying than a big bowl of traditional Malaysian Laksa - a spicy curry noodle soup with a coconut base, topped with a variety of fresh herbs and vibrant, textural garnishes. I love making Laksa at home, and for the sake of convenience, I usually use a good quality, store bought Laksa paste, which tastes great and does the trick. But you just can’t deny the delicious complexity and depth of flavour you get when you make your own curry paste from scratch, with fresh ingredients. The majority of home made Laksa paste recipes I found seemed tedious or complicated, and called for some pretty unusual ingredients such as dried shrimp heads, galangal and candlenuts, many of which are not readily available from your local supermarket or green grocer. So I decided to simply take the most essential components of a Laksa paste, blitz them up in a food processor, and I found that you can still achieve that balance of salty, sweet, sour and spicy that makes a great, gutsy Laksa, without the fuss. As long as you include shrimp paste, plenty of traditional Malaysian herbs

and spices, and fresh chili for a kick, you can’t really go wrong!

Serves 4

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Ingredients: Laksa paste

• 1 large fresh chili • 1 large stalk of lemongrass, trimmed and chopped

• 3 cloves of garlic, peeled • 3cm knob of ginger, peeled and chopped • 3 French shallots, peeled and roughly chopped

• A large handful of coriander • 1 tbsp. shrimp paste • 1 tbsp. soy sauce • 1 tbsp. olive oil • 1 tsp. each dried cumin, turmeric and paprika

Method: 1. T o make the Laksa paste, combine all of the ingredients in a food processor, and blend until a smooth paste has formed.

2. Fry off the paste over a medium heat in two tablespoons of olive oil for a couple of minutes until fragrant, then add in the onion and chicken thighs.

3. Continue to cook for a couple of

minutes until the onion and chicken begin to brown.

4. Add in the coconut milk, kaffir lime

Other ingredients • 400g chicken thighs, chopped into bite size pieces

• 1 brown onion, finely chopped • A head of broccoli, separated into florets • Two medium potatoes, chopped into bite size pieces

• A handful of green beans, topped and tailed

• 1 litre of chicken stock • 1 400ml can of coconut milk • 500g thin rice noodles • Olive oil • Kaffir lime leaves • Fresh chili, beansprouts, coriander, lime

leaves and chicken stock, and reduce heat to a simmer for 10-15 minutes.

5. While the laksa is simmering, steam all of the vegetables until they are just cooked, then add them into the Laksa to finish cooking and absorb all of the flavour.

6. Cook the rice noodles according to their packet directions, then drain and add a handful of noodles to four soup bowls.

7. Remove the kaffir lime leaves, pour the laksa over the noodles to fill the bowls and serve immediately, topped with the fresh garnishes.

wedges and thin slices of pineapple and cucumber, to serve.

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Images with kind permission of Noosa International Food and Wine Festival

From humble beginnings to international recognitionâ&#x20AC;Ś By Connie Lambeth

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“I’m so excited and humbled that so many of Australia’s and the world’s best chefs and winemakers are joining us for the 2015 celebrations in Noosa. It’s been an amazing journey that goes from strength to strength!” Jim Berardo - Festival Director

Noosa has long been a favourite with southerners looking for that perfect winter escape. Located within easy reach of the Sunshine Coast Airport, Noosa’s natural beauty, laid-back lifestyle, plus an abundance of sunshine to caress jaded souls, is attraction enough. Combine that with a Food & Wine

Festival of international repute, and the excitement is palpable!

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GOURMET A four day weekend in May welcomed over 200 invited chefs, winemakers, producers

and

media,

who mingled happily with foodies who had travelled from both interstate and internationally to join the throng of locals in Noosa â&#x20AC;&#x153;to celebrate and enjoy

the good things in lifeâ&#x20AC;?. Anyone

who

familiar

with this region will know that attractions range from beaches, lakes and rivers, to forests, mountains and hinterland.

This

one

festival that spreads well beyond four walls, enabling patrons to soak up a great deal more than sunshine.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Noosa has long been regarded as a premier regional culinary destinationâ&#x20AC;?.

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The Festival has an interesting history, starting out as Noosa Hot and Spicy Festival. The region is a food bowl rich in quality and diversity, providing an abundance of seafood, speciality vegetables, hydroponic herbs, Asian greens, exotic fruits and quality cheeses.

Pepe Saya Cultured Butter 2013

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“Noosa’s Hot and Spicy Festivals confirmed the changing Australian palate while restaurateurs Jim Berardo and Greg O’Brien recognise the trending of culinary tourism, conceiving the Celebration of Australian Food & Wine Noosa Style.” Foodies around Australia, as well as food professionals, came to Noosa to “taste, talk, dine, debate, learn and indulge whilst celebrating produce, chefs and wine. There was no equivalent event in Australia.” It became so successful that the festival later evolved into an international event, with renowned food personalities and top ranked chefs joining the celebration. With its new tag, The Celebration of Australian Food and Wine Noosa Style launched in 2003. The inaugural year attracted the likes of Stephanie Alexander, Peter Doyle, Matt McConnell and Luke Mangan, with the creative twist of having food critics such as John Lethlean cook for the guests! An example of the calibre of this festival was demonstrated in an event which encouraged debate on the future direction of Australian food, while indulging in a 7 course degustation matched with the best of our country’s wines, followed by a tour to a goats cheese farm in the hinterland! By 2008 the festival had evolved to the point of being recognised in The Australian’s Travel & Tourism Awards as “one of the best food experiences in the country”.By 2009 the name changed to the Noosa Food & Wine Festival, and in 2012 another name change to include ‘International’, reflected the keen interest of both Australian and International chefs, foodies and celebrities. 72

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Gary from Masterchef at the Westpac Premier International Degustation Berardos 2015

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Events in this ‘ever-evolving program’ over the years, have included: • Growers Markets • Food and WineTasting Stands • Celebrity Chefs’ Food Stations • Asian, Mediterranean and Seafood Trails • Queensland Wine Expo and Celebration Awards • Qantas Best Dinner in the World • Session on Masterchef Phenomenon • a 1960’s Beach Party complete with Drive In Theatre and favourite 60’s foods Author’s pick: The Cook, The Chef & The Orchestra featuring Maggie Beer, Simon Bryant, Jane Rutter and the Queensland Arts Orchestra with Guy Noble (2012)

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One small community’s quest to celebrate and enjoy the best in food and wine, while showcasing all their region has to offer, has influenced foodies around our country and beyond. “From humble beginnings, the Noosa Food and Wine Festival has grown into Australia’s supreme gourmet event.” (Elizabeth Merriment News Ltd). Footnote: It happens the author knows a thing or two about the beautiful Noosa region, having lived in the area for many years, including the heady late 80’s and early 90’s! She has fond foodie memories, including slurping mangoes for a 7am breakfast on Little Cove beach in Noosa National Park, then a few hours later scoffing down the original and best Big Breakfasts at Cafe Le Monde…served on whopping plates well before big plates were fashionable! Then there were a couple of ‘Orphan’s Christmas’ celebrations in the family’s tropical garden at the rear of their old Queenslander, with international chefs amongst the table of revellers, each with the shared bond that comes with living thousands of kms away from family…the kind of chefs who brought their home-made Brandy Sauce, a tankard of Mulled Wine at odds with the sub-tropical heat, or a classic European dessert…oh yes! During almost two decates of residence on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, the entire family became immersed in both employment and leisure in their town’s stunning 5 star resort hotel, a favourite destination in its hey day for The Australian’s executive lifestyle columnist, Susan Kurosawa, as well as some well known celebrities and rockers including the legendary Jimmy Barnes. Nor should we forget to mention there were a few joyous excursions to the The Noosa Hot and Spicy Festival! along the way!

www.noosafoodandwine.com.au/

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By Co n n i

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ie Lambeth

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The Good Food & Wine Show/real Chocolate and Full Cream Milk delicious new product from The Coach House Dairy 84

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GOURMET June was a full on Foodie Adventure for the TAT Gourmet team. We ran between Foodservice Australia 2015 at Melbourne’s Exhibition Buildings and The Good Food & Wine Show at Melbourne’s Convention & Exhibition Centre. Sampling food and beverages and viewing new products and equipment, was all very exciting, however it was really about the people we met along the way. It was great fun hanging close to a couple of exceptionally talented young chefs competing for the ‘Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the Year’. Here’s a sampler of photos to tempt the taste buds. We invite you to check out future issues of Gourmet, as we will be featuring some of the exhibitors and their sensational products, including Zoi and Stephen from Eire Pies in Adelaide, plus hoping to get a scoop from chefs Chloe and Leslie. Stay tuned! www.eirepies.com www.chocolette.com.au www.salumi.com.au

www.ganache.com.au www.nulacfoods.com (The Coach House Dairy)

oodservice Australia 2015/Eire Pies

The Good Food & Wine Show/ Colette Liu from Chocolette

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Foodservice Australia 2015/Blue Cheese Truffles created by Master Chocolatier, Arno Backes from Ganache

Foodservice Australia Unilev

Foodservice Australia 2015/Creative Cakes

Foodservice Aust Unilever

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a 2015/Chloe Donaldson finalist in ver Food Solutions Chef of the Year

tralia 2015/Leslie Chan finalist in r Food Solutions Chef of the Year

Foodservice Australia 2015/Chloe Donaldson competing in the Unilever Food Solutions Chef of the Year

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Foodservice Australia 2015/EzyAussie Prawn Peeler - available Kitchen stores and online 87

What's Happening On

Stay up to date and follow @TATGourmetMag on Instagram and Twitter.

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by Connie Lambeth Images with kind permission of Darwin Festival/Elise Derwin

for Food Lovers 92

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GOURMET QLD Colombian Street Festival Saturday 18th July 11am to 10pm Fortitude Valleyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Annual Latin Street Festival www.visitbrisbane.com.au Christmas in July in the Country Saturdays in July 6-10.30pm Abbey of the Roses Warwick Qld www.abbeyoftheroses.com 3 course traditional dinner, 4 hour beverage pack, activities

N.S.W. Aroma Festival 1st - 31st July 2015 The Rocks The biggest coffee festival in the Southern Hemisphere! www.therocks.com/whats-on/aroma-festival

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The Amphitheatre/ Darwin Festival

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GOURMET The Good Food & Wine Show (Sydney) 7th - 9th August 2015 Sydney Showgrounds

N.T. The Darwin Festival 6-23rd August 2015 Book flights early Plenty of food/arts/culture and sunshine!

W.A. The Good Food & Wine Show (Perth) 10th - 12th July 2015 Perth Convention & Exhibition Centre goodfoodshow.com.au

S.A. Winter Red Cellar Door Weekend 26th -27th July 2015 www.adelaidehills.org.au

A.C.T. The Truffle Festival 21st June - late August 2015 festival.com.au 18 days of food/arts/culture

VIC Barrel Tasting Weekend in the Bendigo Wine Region 4th - 5th July 2015 ph: 1300 656 650 bendigowine.org.au Discover the mystery and romance of winemaking with exclusive barrel tasting sessions at participating wineries Montalto Abundance Olive Festival 33 Shoreham Rd Red Hill South Vic 3937 ph: 03 5989 8412 www.montalto.com.au Join Montalto as they celebrate the 2015 olive harvest, their 13th annual weekend celebration

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Ballaratâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Pie Competition 1st - 31st July 2015 ph: 1800 446 633 www.ballaratwinterlude.com.au Eat your way around Ballarat and sample the range of gourmet pies made in house at local restaurants and cafes (matched to Coopers Pale Ale). Richard Cornish from The Age and writer/chef Suzi Fitzpatrick will guest judge which pie is overall winner at the Mining Exchange on 31st July (Coopers Pie and Pale Gala) Christmas in July at the Cuckoo Mt. Dandenong Tourist Rd Olinda Vic 3788 1st to 31st July 2015 ph: (03) 9751 1003 www.cuckoorestaurant.com.au Carols, decorations and delicious Christmas fare all month

TAS Chocolate Winterfest 9th August 2015 Gilbert St, Latrobe www.chocolatewinterfest.com.au

Soweto Gospel Choir/ Darwin Festival

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The Fishermanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Table/ Darwin Festival

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