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SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2020 • ShawLocal.com

‘ILLINOIS MADE’ Five Starved Rock Country businesses recognized / 4

GOOD NATURED

Look for migrating strangers at bird feeders / 7

DRIVE TIME

Follow the barn quilt trail through DeKalb County / 5

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An expert taster shares favorite finds to consider adding to your own wine racks.

Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

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By JAMES NOKES

Lodi winemakers conjure old vine magic

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rue Lodi winemakers have developed their own lingo, passed down through generations.

Tegan Passalacqua noticed the tell when a prospective buyer wanted to buy some old vine carignan. The winemaker at Turley and owner of Sandlands didn’t get too picky, but he knew he was doing business with someone from out of town.

In Lodi, carignan, normally pronounced with a soft G that sounds more like a Y and a long A on its last syllable, has a hard G. Sure, it’s a rough-sounding pronunciation, but it fits the scrappy nature of the AVA. There are no rock-star winemakers, no cult bottles that fetch six-figure prices at the auction house, just a vast collection of old vines, planted on their own rootstocks, grown in sandy soils, and on the shelf at incredibly reasonable prices.

Lodi is an homage to the first immigrants who came to California and planted head-trained vines that aren’t supported by any trellising.

They’ve since stood the test of time, and for buyers willing to make a purchase, Passalacqua doesn’t get picky about pronunciation. “[It’s] some of [the] better carignan in the world – supple, real pretty, dark-colored wines with good acidity,” Passalacqua said. “At first, a guy came in and his pronunciation was right. He wanted to pay $500 for a ton. Then it was $800 they wanted to pay. Then someone came in and found out how old the vineyard was and wanted to pay $1,000. At that point, you can call it whatever you want. If you’re going to tell an old grower his family has grown grapes for 100 years, but his pronunciation is wrong, you’re the one that’s wrong. That’s the cool thing in California, we have our own name for carignan.”

At a Tuesday night Zoom tasting, Passalacqua was joined by Kevin Phillips of Michael David Winery, Stuart Spencer of the Lodi Winegrape Commission, and Jeff Peregos, the owner of Stampede Vineyard. They are guardians of Lodi’s old vines, a link to California’s wine history, while moving into the future with incredibly tasty and affordable wines.

With his beard reaching a point below his chin and more salt in it than pepper, Phillips sported a

white trucker hat with his winery’s orange logo in the middle. Wearing a black vest, he looked like he could step in for Queens of the Stone Age and play lead guitar.

To the best of Phillips’ knowledge, Bechthold Vineyard cinsault is the only planting in Lodi. Moments later he took it a step further and postulated it might be the only cinsault vineyard in the state and could be the oldest in the world.

Which set off a debate as the winemakers attempted to recall another cinsault vineyard. There might be one in Sonoma or the Russian River Valley, no one was quite sure as the elusive cinsault vineyard became a MacGuffin they tried to track down.

Such is the passion for old vines shared by the trio.

“These vineyards are becoming rare, and once they are gone they are gone,” Peregos said. “I try to spend my wine dollars on people whose effort I value and old vines.

I try to pass that back to support those efforts.”

It’s a Herculean task because old vines are worked harder at harvest time. There’s no trellising system where the fruit can hang in a similar spot on every vine. There are head-trained vines that are 7 feet tall, affectionately dubbed the “Lodi Ladder,” they bear a resemblance to a Charlie Brown Christmas tree.

There are also others that are only a few feet off the ground with thick, knotty trunks and shoots that look like arthritic knuckles jutting skyward.

There’s times when Peregos doesn’t want to lean on a vine in fear it might tip over in Lodi’s sandy soil. He’s also wary that a tractor might nick a vine by accident on a pass through the vineyard. While old vine farming is a labor of love, Passalacqua wouldn’t have it any other way.

“Vines do it more naturally,” Passalacqua said. “You don’t have to prune or sucker them. They just look natural. There’s more care in old vines, but there are more manipulations in trellised vineyards.

Old vines just sit back and you say, ‘What do you need?’ A little shoot thinning, and it’ll look perfect.”

While Phillips dry farms his Bechthold Vineyard, he does give the vines a drink one time per year.

Once harvest is done, the vineyard

Tasting Notes ■■ Klinker Brick Rauser Vineyard Cari-

is doused with 4 acre feet of water.

He said the vineyard “is a complete and total sand pit” but is so well drained that a day later, he can walk through Bechthold and not get his boots muddy.

Whether it’s zinfandel, carignan, cinsault or some other varietal from another era, the AVA is in good hands with the quartet from the Zoom tasting.

“Lodi is a special place with a lot of old vines,” Passalacqua said. “But, unfortunately, they are shrinking. We have enough fruit where every winery could make an old vine Lodi wine. But we need the consumer to buy in, to understand it. We have living history here that’s a really cool thing. We need to do all we can to preserve it. You can’t get wines like this anywhere else in the world. To taste what California is, go get an old vine zinfandel. It captures California sunshine, the breeze, and you can drink it at an affordable price. There are truly world-class individual wines that are reasonably priced.”

• James Nokes has been tasting, touring and collecting in the wine world for several years. Email him at jamesnokes25@yahoo.com.

gnan 2017 ($25) Head-trained vines planted in 1909 dwarfed winemaker Joseph Smith in a photo shown during the tasting. Carignan is a prolific producer, and Passalacqua said it “begins to show best when there is age on the vineyard.” There were flavors of cracked black pepper, blackberry and ground baking spices.

■■ M2 Wines Soucie Vineyard Zinfandel 2017 ($32) Had a savory nose with carpaccio, mushroom, rosemary, all tied to ripe fruit aromas. There were robust flavors of cherry, tobacco pipe, figs, warm dates, cracked pepper.

■■ Maître de Chai 2018 Stampede Vineyard Zinfandel ($33) Owner Jeff Peregos bought the 18-acre, diamond-shaped vineyard planted in 1928, and since has added 2 acres of alicante bouchet and grenache. “We get ripe flavors at low alcohol and high acid,” Peregos said. “It hugs the line with Clements Stampede Rodeo Grounds which is where it takes its name. We use whole-cluster carbonic maceration and some barrel fermentation. The emphasis is on lower to medium alcohol. You get the fruit you expect to find, but there is acidity and tannin development normally found in Amador Country or mountain fruit. We’ve got a happy medium here.”

■■ McCay Cellars Truelux Vineyard Zinfandel 2016 ($35) From 1940s vineyards, it had a rich, round mouthfeel, with semisweet chocolate morsels that were bitter, there was snappy blackberry, blueberry compote, rosemary and thyme notes.

■■ Michael David Winery Bechthold Vineyard Cinsaut 2018 ($25) My favorite wine from the tasting, it was very light, ruby-colored in the glass.

Reminiscent of a pinot noir or grenache, there was sweet cherry, tobacco and a delicate texture. From vineyards planted in 1886.

■■ Turley Wine Cellars 2018 Kirschenmann Vineyard Zinfandel ($32) Grown in chalky, sandy soil – Passalacqua made three passes through the vineyard at harvest time. Because grapes come in at different times, he can “build complexity.” There was cherry, leather and ripe raspberry on the nose ripe with rich brambly berry, cherry and raspberry flavors. “It has a lot of fruit but not a fruit bomb,” Passalacqua said.

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SHAW MEDIA Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

Family reunions, single family vacations or romantic couples getaways

Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

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Ryan Searl - rsearl@shawmedia.com

Fine Field Pottery creates a wide range of one-of-a-kind wares.

‘Maker’ businesses enjoy state artisan status

By RYAN SEARL

rsearl@shawmedia.com

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he Illinois Office of Tourism announced that 31 small businesses, dubbed makers, have been added to the state’s popular Illinois Made list. This program sets out to inspire locals and visitors alike to discover locally made artisan goods and other hidden gems spread across the state.

On this list, which can be found at enjoyillinois.com, you’ll find honey producers, tattoo art galleries, candle makers and, now, even small batch micro-distillers. Join us as we take a tour of Starved Rock Country’s five certified Illinois Made small businesses, including the newly added Star Union Spirits.

Star Union Spirits 300 Fifth St., Suite 135, Peru 815-205-1234 The small-batch micro-distillery is producing exciting craft beverages inside Peru’s historic Westclox building. Star Union Spirits’ diverse portfolio of bottles includes apple, cherry and cabernet sauvignon

brandies, grappas, rums, whiskies and vodka. Try a cocktail at its tasting room or purchase bottles to go. These hand-crafted spirits make excellent gifts for connoisseurs of locally made goods, something to keep in mind as we head into the holiday season. For a sample of what can be made with their products, take a look at Star Union Spirits on Instagram.

Illinois Sparkling Co. 106 Mill St., Utica 815-667-5211

Illinois Sparkling Co. is deeply committed to quality and authenticity.

Its traditional method sparkling wines demand close attention to detail. Each bottle is personally handled from beginning to end, a time-consuming and labor-intensive process that Tangled Roots Brewing Co. yields impeccable results. Looking for introduction to the ISC’s line of 812 La Salle St., Ottawa locally crafted sparkling wines? Look 815-324-9549 no further than their Experience Tangled Roots Brewing Co. is a Flight Trio, three traditional method craft brewery in historic downtown Ottawa, offering a locally grown farm- sparkling wines hand-selected by the to-foam experience and a roster of deli- winemakers to show the variety and cious beers that perfectly complement strengths of the ISC lineup. Proudly made with locally grown grapes and your trip to Starved Rock State Park. served at the Illinois Sparkling Co. At the TR Tap Room, you’ll find oneoff experimental beers and limited-run and August Hill Winery tasting room in downtown Utica, these three wines collaborations with other Illinois brewers, as well as an amazing lineup are truly Illinois Made products. of live events, when it is deemed safe Fine Field Pottery to host concerts again. To see Tangled Pieces can be purchased at K’s Secret Roots’ latest release, Black Lager – a Garden, 215 E. Main St., Streator or online dark beer that features mild, roastat etsy.com/shop/FineFieldPottery ed malt character along with a sweet Fine Field Pottery, located in the aroma of chocolate and coffee – visit heart of the historic brick-making the Facebook page.

town of Streator, specializes in functional and fun pieces of stoneware. The art is just as beautiful as it is practical, with a wide array of items ranging from bowls and mugs to pincushions and honey pots.

Consider giving the baker in your life a gorgeously glazed pie plate or French butter keeper. Check out Fine Field Pottery’s Etsy page; the products are shipped nationwide directly from the heart of Starved Rock Country.

Starved Rock Hot Glass 700 W. Main St., Ottawa 815-313-5445 For a truly one-of-a-kind piece of art glass, pay a visit to Starved Rock Hot Glass in downtown Ottawa. The city has a long and winding tradition of glassmaking,­and for the last decade, artist Laura Johnson has been adding to the tapestry, perfecting a line of signature hand-blown pieces.

From her colorful and crowd-pleasing glass flowers to modernist mixed-media pieces made from blown glass and reclaimed driftwood, Starved Rock Hot Glass is a must-visit Illinois maker.

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Farmyard Folk Art

More than 40 barn quilts on DeKalb County self-guided tour

By KATRINA J.E. MILTON kmilton@shawmedia.com

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amilies cooped up indoors during the pandemic can travel across the countryside on a self-guided tour of DeKalb County’s barn quilts.

The DeKalb County Convention and Visitors Bureau and the DeKalb County Farm Bureau created the tour that features more than 40 barn quilts.

On the DCCVB’s website, there are turn-by-turn driving directions for the five legs of the route. There also are directions to link the trails together.

“The barn quilt tour is a fun way to explore DeKalb County,” said Katherine McLaughlin, DCCVB sales and marketing coordinator. “You don’t even have to leave your car, you can see everything from the road.”

A barn quilt is a wood, metal or canvas square painted to resemble a quilt square design. Barn quilts are hung on the exterior of a farm structure, such as a barn, machine shed or garage.

The current barn quilt movement

was started by Donna Sue Groves in 2001 in Ohio. Groves honored her mother and her love of quilting by painting a quilt block on their tobacco barn. She then began painting barn quilts around her community, leading to the formation of the first barn quilt trail. Groves’ project quickly became a popular way to honor family history and loved ones. Now there are more than 40 barn quilt trails in North America.

At first, barn quilt designs were chosen from the family’s quilt that was passed down from generation to generation.

“Barn quilts can be any color and design,” McLaughlin said. “Some include a favorite quilt pattern, but others feature an aspect from the family’s farm or even their pet.”

Randy and Kay Thorsen of Waterman received their barn quilt from their daughter as a gift. Their design’s name is Lonestar II, and it features patriotic red, white and blue colors and hangs on their farm’s machine shed.

“My wife always wanted one, and I like how it adds color,” Randy Thors-

en said. “It’s like a starburst, I love the design. It’s almost like hanging a picture on your wall in the house, except it’s outside on our machine shed.”

Mark Tuttle, president of the DeKalb County Farm Bureau, has a barn quilt on his machine shed in Somonauk. His children painted it for him as a Christmas gift 10 to 15 years ago.

“I think barn quilts catch your eye and draw your attention in,” Tuttle said. “They really spruce up the countryside.”

Joni Osterhout of Waterman used to travel throughout the Midwest with her mom, Dorothy Walker, who loved seeing barn quilts.

After attending a seminar about barn quilts in Sycamore, Osterhout painted a 4-by-4-foot design on plywood for her mother. The barn quilt hangs above the family’s garage.

“My experience with quilts has been more textile but I love that throughout history, quilters have been able to come together to make something grand out of a variety of small pieces,” Osterhout said.

“Quilts symbolize togetherness and

a collective expressionism that allows any possibility. Quilters take what they have and put it together in a creative fashion that’s straight from the heart,” she said. “Quilts are essential, they keep you warm and are utilitarian. It’s not surprising that something so iconic began fueling the popularity of barn quilts.”

Osterhout said that while traveling to view barn quilts on a tour, families are able to see the beauty of nature and the agricultural landscape.

“The creativity of barn quilts is something to keep your eyes open for,” Osterhout said. “During your adventures, you also get to enjoy the magnificent countryside.”

McLaughlin said she hopes the barn tour inspires creativity.

“I’d love for the tour to encourage kids to design their own barn quilts,” she said. “They can be anything they want it to be, any color, any pattern or design. The possibilities are limitless.”

To learn more, visit dekalbcountycvb.com/dekalbcountybarnquilts or barnquiltinfo.com/map-US.html.

SHAW MEDIA Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

Katrina J.E. Milton photos - kmilton@shawmedia.com

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Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

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Sandy Bressner - sbressner@shawmedia.com

Lindsay and Kirk Foster of Geneva sit in one of the Sun Bubbles outside Riverlands Brewing Company in St. Charles on Oct. 23.

Riverlands Brewery in St. Charles brings ‘sun bubbles’ to patio

By AIMEE BARROWS

abarrows@shawmedia.com As the weather started to get cooler, the owners of Riverlands Brewing Co. in St. Charles knew they would have to get creative when it came to outdoor service.

Luckily, Steve Marck, one of the co-owners of Riverlands, ordered “sun bubbles” earlier this fall in anticipation of not only the colder weather, but in case of another ban on indoor dining. It’s an idea catching on at more and more venues.

At Riverlands, the sun bubbles officially opened to customers last month, just in time for the additional COVID-19 mitigations that temporarily prohibit indoor dining and bar service.

As it turns out, the sun bubbles, which are like plastic “pop-up greenhouses” that trap heat to allow gardening throughout the winter, make perfect enclosures for outdoor dining, Marck said.

“When it’s sunny out, they get warm, and they block the wind, so it’s much better than standing outside,” he said. “People have been really psyched about it. They’re jazzed they

don’t have to sit in the rain, and they thought it was a blast.”

Riverlands Brewing Co. doesn’t have a kitchen, but customers can bring their own food into their bubble or enjoy a meal from one of the food trucks stationed near the building on weekends. The brewery has table service – or sun bubble service – because customers are not able to order beer or cider from the taproom bar.

Marck said he is planning to leave the sun bubbles out as long as possible, even through the winter and into spring.

“It’s been a wild ride. We’ve had to reinvent the model several times over,” he said. “The community has been really supportive, so we’re lucky to be in the spot where we are. We’re always trying to do something to stay ahead [of the pandemic regulations].

You have to get creative because this [virus] is probably not going to go away for a while.”

The brewery has 14 sun bubbles available by reservation, but soon could add more. The bubbles are located next to the taproom, 1860 Dean St., Unit A, in St. Charles. Visit www. riverlandsbrewing.com.

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By PAM OTTO

Taking interesting dives into the natural world around us, Pam Otto opens new avenues of exploration.

Look for migrating strangers at bird feeders

G

enerally speaking, eruptions attract a lot of attention. There’s no mistaking when a volcano blows, or a crowd expresses its views. Or when a facial blemish pops up, usually on a day of major importance. (“With this zit, I thee wed … ”) But irruptions? They can happen and create barely a ripple. In fact, we’re in the middle of several right now, and I’ll bet you haven’t even noticed.

Well, I take that back. If you’re a birder, you’re well aware of what’s going on around us. But as a birder, you’re also apt to keep quiet about such things, so as not to disrupt the birds and their behavior.

So for everyone else out there, look! Up in the sky! It’s a bird! And another bird! And dozens more!

Ecologically speaking, an irruption is “a sudden increase in an animal population.” And what we’re seeing in northern Illinois right now is a sharp increase in the numbers of certain types of birds, specifically seed-eating birds from the north.

Driven south by a precipitous drop in their preferred food – conifer seeds – pine siskins began arriving in our area a couple weeks ago. They’re lively little birds for sure and are traveling in large groups. So you’d think they’d be easy to spot.

But the thing with pine siskins is they superficially resemble American goldfinches. Both species have prominent wing bars and a yellowish cast to their plumage. And at bird feeders, both display a preference for nyjer or “thistle” seed.

It can be easy to confuse the two until you start to look more closely at some specific details. Although goldfinches and siskins are of similar size, the pine siskin casts a slimmer profile. It’s also quite streaky on its breast and back, whereas the chunkier goldfinch is clear – that is, devoid of markings.

Their bills are quite different too. By necessity, the pine siskin’s bill is longer and more slender – all the better to pluck seeds from cones.

While you’re weighing the differences between pine siskins and American goldfinches, be sure to keep an eye out for a few other small, seed-eating species that also are irrupting this year: common redpolls, purple finches and red-breasted nuthatches.

Common redpolls are streaky like pine siskins but lack the yellow coloration and sport a jaunty red forehead patch; in addition, males wear a “vest” of pinkish feathers on either side of the breast.

Meanwhile, purple finches look, to my eye, a lot like our very common house or “Hollywood” finches. But experienced birders will point out that the purple finch is a little heftier and that the red on the male is a bright raspberry hue, as opposed to the less intense “strawberry” red of the male house finch. Also, purple finches show plain white feathers underneath their tails, while those of the house finches are streaked.

If you grapple with telling these two birds apart, you’re not alone. And believe me, I feel your pain.

But with purple finches here in larger numbers, this may be the year we can all learn to distinguish between them.

Thankfully, red-breasted nuthatches look nothing like either of these finches and should be easy to pick out in your yard or at your feeders – especially if you have conifers and are offering suet. These

Photo provided

Evening grosbeaks are one of several unusual birds showing up as part of a major irruption, or influx, of species from the north. birds exhibit many of the same upside-down feeding behaviors of their cousins, the white-breasted nuthatches, which live here year-round but are smaller and have a peachy blush on the breast. They’ve also got a white eyebrow and a bold black line through the eye – hard-to-miss markings that help confirm their ID. So far, the irrupting species we’ve been talking about all bear some resemblance to local birds you’re likely familiar with. But there’s one more bird to watch for that’s, as they say on “Sesame Street,” not like the others.

The evening grosbeak is a large finch – close to robin-sized – and doesn’t really look like any of our “usual” backyard bird species. Males are yellow and black with a bright splash of white on the wings; females are a more subdued gray with black and white wings and a distinctive wash of yellow on the back of the neck.

But the feature you’ll find most noticeable is that called out in its name. Grosbeak is a combination of the French words “gros” (“big, fat”) and “bec” (“beak”). These birds use their big, fat beaks to crush seeds, like striped sunflower, that smaller birds struggle with. In fact, it’s not uncommon to see species like pine siskins and redpolls gleaning the crumbs grosbeaks leave behind.

As 2020 draws to a close, and we take stock of its many notable happenings – a pandemic, for one, and a presidential election that won’t soon be forgotten – be sure to add the appearance of these delightful bird species to the list. And while you’re at it, be grateful that we’re in the midst of an irruption, not an eruption. Then again, the year’s not over yet …

• Pam Otto is the outreach ambassador for the St. Charles Park District. She can be reached at 630-5134346 or potto@stcparks.org.

SHAW MEDIA Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

GOOD NATURED

WOODHAVEN LAKES Private Recreational Campground

Shaw Media / ShawLocal.com • Saturday, November 14, 2020

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So Much to See. So Much to Do.

Hiking Trails. Woodlands. Nature. Lakes. WiFi. Pools. Crafts. Movies. Fitness Center. Prairie. Deer. Pavilions. Arcade. Mini Golf.

Day Camp. Tennis. Basketball. Live Music. Theme Activities. Fireworks. Painting Parties. Open Markets. Social Events. Volleyball.

Shuffleboard. Teen Dances. Car Show. Paddleboats. Sledding. Farmers Markets. Night Hikes. Campfires. Fishing. Tournaments.

Pickleball. Acoustic Nights. Wine & Cheese Social. Road Rally. Golf Outing. 5K/3K. Haunted House. Canoing. Anything That Floats.

Horseshoes. Petting Zoo. Wagon Rides. Aqua Zumba. Playgrounds. Karaoke. Family Fun Night. Coffee Hour. Clubs. DJs. Scavenger Hunts. Kayaking. Tug of War. Food Fairs. Picnics.

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Call us for a tour!