A mag cover los by Shearey Pinas

amsterdam magazine

Sights & Sounds Art & Fashion Dancing & Dining Film & Theatre march & april 2013 no 2 â&#x201A;Ź2.95

A unique day out among the flowers Have you ever seen more than 7 million tulips, daffodils and hyacinths, all in bloom? Come to Keukenhof, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most beautiful spring garden. In addition to over 32 hectares of flowers, the spring garden offers 30 beautiful flower shows, 7 amazing inspirational gardens and 100 wonderful works of art. Keukenhof is world-famous, truly unique, and has for over 60 years provided a wonderful decor to the most beautiful photographs. Leading media from the Netherlands and abroad have this year once again proclaimed Keukenhof one of the most popular destinations in the world. Visit Keukenhof this spring! Buy your entrance ticket online at www.keukenhof.nl, or ask your hotel, travel agent, tour operator or tourist information office.

Open from 21 March until 20 May 2013

magna eleifend. tincidunt vel, elementum in odio. Vestibulum id dapibus eros. Nulla eges

STREET ART nec rhoncus. Sed in magna nec sem adipiscing semper. sequat leo in libero molikert ibulum nisl juscondimentum dolor

hendrerit non. Etiam mollis nulla et augue congue, et fermentum Donec et justo vel magna adipiscing auctor. Cras justo leo, vehicula vel stas posuere quam, sit amet convallis orci semper et. Pellentesque non

magna adipiscing auctor. Cras justo leo, vehicula vel tincidunt vel, elementum in odio. Vestibulum id dapibus eros. Nulla suere aliquet, erat nunc tempor diam, id dapibus ligula mi in nisl.

Praesent blandit sapien metus, non consectetur nulla dapibus id. Proin tincidunt at nunc id commodo. Curabitur vestibu quam. Pellentesque rutrum varius tellus. Ut eget tincidunt ipsum, in tincidunt tortor. Mauris lobortis fringilla lacus, at bla orci eget felis. In varius sed purus id blandit. Donec lacinia, velit vitae laoreet sagittis, magna felis iaculis dui, quis vulputa tibus et magnis dis parturient montes, nascetur ridiculus mus. Aliquam erat volutpat. Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, conse quat leo in libero mollis mollis. Vestibulum nisl justo, varius a accumsan a, posuere ac nisl. Integer lacinia elit felis, ut con vel magna adipiscing auctor. Cras justo leo, vehicula vel tincidunt vel, elementum in odio. Vestibulum id dapibus eros. Nu posuere aliquet, erat nunc tempor diam, id dapibus ligula mi in nisl

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Nam gravida vitae augue nec rhoncus. Sed in magna nec sem adipiscing semper. Nunc consequat leo in libero mollis mollis. Vestibulum nisl justo, varius a accumsan a, posuere ac nisl. Integer lacinia elit felis, ut condimentum dolor hendrerit non. Etiam mollis nulla et augue congue, et fermentum magna eleifend. Donec et justo vel egestas posuere quam, sit amet convallis orci semper et. Pellentesque non felis orci. Aenean ultrices, leo quis po-

ulum nisl in enim vehicula, mattis ultricies lacus aliquet. Proin consectetur ante non felis dictum, non dictum est aliandit augue accumsan sodales. Nam congue, mauris ut rutrum tempor, purus sapien lacinia ipsum, et pharetra erat ate nisi ante vel mauris. Pellentesque vitae odio eu mauris vulputate lacinia quis sed elit. Cum sociis natoque penaectetur adipiscing elit. Nam gravida vitae augue nec rhoncus. Sed in magna nec sem adipiscing semper. Nunc consendimentum dolor hendrerit non. Etiam mollis nulla et augue congue, et fermentum magna eleifend. Donec et justo ulla egestas posuere quam, sit amet convallis orci semper et. Pellentesque non felis orci. Aenean ultrices, leo quis

part I up close

pincenct 5 Singel 459 1012 WP Amsterdam

chain reaction

To really understand this city and its people, you have to get in lane.

Shirley Agudo

text Mark Smith & Megan Roberts illustration Gijs Kast

a city of cyclists

merican essayist Christopher Morley once wrote that ‘the bicycle, the bicycle surely, should always be the vehicle of novelists and poets.’ While that may be true of the gas-guzzling United States, here in the Netherlands – and in Amsterdam especially – the humble bike is the default mode of transport for the butcher, the stockbroker… and even the supermodel. At the first edition of Amsterdam International Fashion Week in 2004, it wasn’t just the futuristic designs by the city’s rag-trade mavericks that turned the immaculately coiffed heads of the visiting front-row crowd; it was also the fact that the local models and fashionistas – some of them with skinny lattes or mobile phones in hand – were arriving not by chauffeur-driven car or even by taxi. They were rocking up on bicycles. Nine years later, during this year’s Fashion Week, Dutch retailer SuperTrash sent its models down the catwalk on bikes, to the soundtrack of Queen’s ‘Bicycle Race’.

Trends come and go, but it seems the fiets never goes out of style. RUSTY BUT TRUSTY Ridden by royalty and riff-raff alike, the bike is Amsterdam’s great social leveller, with more than 50 per cent of all innercity journeys happening on two wheels. It’s rumoured that there are more bikes than people. You may be able to glance at an Amsterdammer’s clothes, their postcode or their curtains and make a judgement about their social status or heritage. Their bike, however? That’s another story. According to Michel Geldermans, owner of cycle repair shop Fiets-Toom in the Oud-West, ‘Although there is a growing trend for more expensive “designer” bikes among young people, as a general rule, one person’s bike will look much like the next bike.’ And the next bike, let’s be honest, is no oil painting. Regardless of its owner’s pedigree, a cycle in Amsterdam is frequently a rusty but trusty old wreck, complete with amateur paint job, its key components held together with gaffer tape. Being a

chain reaction

part I up close

sustainable, affordable and socially engaged.

pragmatic bunch by nature, Amsterdammers are aware that the flashier a bike, the more likely it is to be swiped. It’s estimated that some 50,000 steeds are stolen every year in the capital. Often this is the result of lax locking after a few too many biertjes. A whole lot more end up languishing at the bottom of the waterways, albeit not for long – keep an eye out for the City’s amazing crane boat, which pulls up submerged bikes by the motorised clawful. Most of the time, however, things work exceptionally well. ‘Now that cities world-wide are having to deal with the problems of traffic jams, pollution and parking space, they look to Amsterdam and see that the solution lies in biking,’ says Jorrit Kreek, founder of Urban Arrow, a company that manufactures an ‘electric-assisted’ version of the head-turning bakfiets used by so many Amsterdammers to transport cargo – most often their children – around the city. ‘Tourists look at us like we’re from outer space, but for us, it’s totally normal,’ jokes Kreek. Being compact and famously flat, it’s true that Amsterdam had a head start when it came to bike-friendliness. But – as is appropriate for one of the only mechanised modes of transport whereby passenger and engine are one and the same – people power has played a significant role. Bike sharing schemes, such as London’s ‘Boris Bikes’ network and Paris’s ‘Vélib’ initiative, find their inspiration in Amsterdam’s ‘White Bike Plan’ of 1965, the earliest-known community biking scheme as conceived by radical politician Luud



part I

chain reaction

up close

no-nonsense yet eminently stylish.

FIETSENBOOT While cities around the world look to better integrate the bicycle, Amsterdam offers a cautionary tale of the logistical headaches of doing so. With the average Amsterdammer owning 1.5 bikes and only 50,000 official parking spots in the centre, it’s not surprising that council officials remove around 55,000 illegally parked bikes each year. The numerous ‘bike boats’ docked at strategic locations around the city may just be the answer…

WORKCYCLES Founded in 2003 by American former product designer Henry Cutler, WorkCycles does exactly what it says on the tin: builds bicycles and tricycles made to perform hard work. They may be beautiful in their own way, but make no mistake: the WorkCycle is the shire horse of the Amsterdam bike world, functional and extremely durable.

Nobody can agree on exactly where the Dutch word fiets comes from. But now two linguists from the Univeristy of Ghent think they‘ve traced the word‘s meaning, via the German for cider (Viez, meaning ‘vice wine‘ and pronounced to rhyme with fiets in some parts of the country), to ‘replacment horse’. Which also explains the common Dutch pejorative stalen ros: ‘steel steed‘.

Shirley Agudo

‘vice horse’

 

Lijnbaansgracht 32b & Veemarkt 150a www.workcycles.com

part I

up close

1 Amsterdam

deborah van der schaaf

After 16 years here, native New Yorker Lauren Comiteau is still working out how to ‘go Dutch’.

store 1 amsterdam S Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has been covering the Netherlands for TIME magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters.

everal years back, I wrote a story about EL HEMA, an Arabic version of the country’s most beloved and überDutch department store. Although an art installation by design, EL HEMA sold star HEMA products with an Arabic twist, meaning I spent more money on Halal smoked sausage, Arabic-themed tea towels and wine plastered in Arabian odes to drunkenness than I earned for my writing. EL HEMA’s products were sadly taken out of production when the exhibit closed down. So it was with some cheerful surprise recently when during my seemingly bi-weekly HEMA run, I noticed hijabs for sale. Yes, the traditional Muslim woman’s head covering – the one that just a few years ago was the cause of so much debate as anti-Islamist politician Geert Wilders dreamed of taxing women who wore it – was available in a stretchy viscose version in black, teal and raspberry pink. That HEMA feeling It’s hard to explain the HEMA phenomenon to people not familiar with the almost 600-strong ubiquitous chain. Its in-house designed products are so appealingly Dutch: down-to-earth, practical, stylish and, perhaps most important, affordable. Any store whose claim to fame is that it’s taken the quotidian frying pan and painted it day-glow pink is a winner in my book – and apparently in the rest of the Dutch population’s too; my informal poll indicates that your average Amsterdammer, like me, spends

about 1/4 of her annual income at HEMA. That ‘HEMA feeling’ has been described as a combination of nostalgia and comfort. It’s the ultimate retail therapy. There’s no child here who hasn’t grown up in the store’s underwear, not one adult who hasn’t savoured its pale pink creamy confection, the tompouce. I can’t think of any other chain store that has been given life on stage, even if some critics agree with the show’s tagline, ‘the worst musical ever’, a wordplay on one of the store’s star products – its famous smoked sausage. HEMA prides itself on changing with the times, on introducing new products so often that when you enter the store for cotton balls you end up leaving with a blue-glazed ceramic pitcher that could have come straight out of a Vermeer painting. So whether it’s one small step for integration or simply a brilliant bow by HEMA marketers to the nation’s changing demographics, that this temple of Dutch culture now sells hijabs is a welcome move, fitting even for a store that has its roots in a different immigrant community: the Jewish one of the ’20s. HEMA takes its country’s celebrations seriously, from Ramadan’s Sugar Parties to the more traditional Easter dinner. So come Queen’s Day this 30 April, HEMA will be stocked full of commemorative and celebratory items. As of this writing, mum’s the word on what they will be, but I’m putting my money on the annual orange tompouce, topped with marzipan minis of the King and his popular Argentinean Queen.

Advertorial

jun & jul 2013

17 

De Magnum Pleasure Store is een concept-store waar het ijsmerk Magnum centraal staat. Bezoekers kunnen hier zelf hun Magnum laten creëren. Na Londen, Parijs en Milaan is de store gedurende de zomer van 2013 te vinden aan het Rembrandtplein in Amsterdam.

LACE TO BE FOR PLEASURE SEEKERS Op donderdag 30 mei opende presentatrice Nicolette van Dam de Magnum Pleasure Store aan het Amsterdamse Rembrandtplein. De store is alleen deze zomer open. “Magnum is gemaakt voor ‘pleasure seekers’, mensen die een druk leven leiden vol verplichtingen en verantwoordelijkheden, maar zich regelmatig een moment van genieten en rust gunnen. In de Magnum Pleasure Store kun je zo’n moment beleven en daar op je eigen manier invulling aan geven”, legt Madelon van der Tol van Magnum uit. “Het ontwerpen van je eigen Magnum-ijsje – met jouw bijzondere en persoonlijke smaakcombinatie – is een waanzinnige ervaring. We nodigen alle pleasure seekers uit om deze kans te pakken!”

CUSTOM-MADE EN ONCONVENTIONEEL In de Magnum Pleasure Store kunnen mensen hun eigen ijsje laten creëren door zogenaamde Pleasure Makers. Een custom-made ijsje begint met een basis van vanille-roomijs en een krakende coating naar keuze: melkchocolade, witte chocolade of pure chocolade. Vervolgens kan naar eigen smaak een aantal toppings worden toegevoegd. De keuze is groot. Om te beginnen zijn er de Classics: hazelnootjes, stukjes biscuitwafel, krullen witte chocolade, pecannootjes, amandelnootjes en verkruimelde speculaas. Wat exotischer zijn de Specials: goji bessen, meringuestukjes, kokos, aardbeiensuiker, stukjes caramelfudge, nougat, kandijsuiker, gemberstukjes en stukjes brownie. De Experimentals zorgen voor een bijzondere sensatie met chocolade-sinaasappelschillen, gesuikerde muntblaadjes, rozenblaadjes, roze pralinestukjes, chocolade popping-candy, gesuikerde viooltjes en cacao-chili. Van der Tol: “Een pleasure seeker gaat van nature op zoek naar nieuwe, interessante dingen in het leven. Naar onconventionele, spannende nieuwe smaken bijvoorbeeld. Door de keuze te bieden uit bijzondere ingrediënten en bezoekers van de store zelf een ijsje te laten samenstellen, hebben wij geprobeerd in die behoefte te voorzien. Eigenlijk laten wij mensen hun eigen ultieme plezier creëren in de Magnum Pleasure Store.” OVER MAGNUM Magnum werd geïntroduceerd in 1989. Het was het eerste luxe ijsproduct gericht op volwassenen. Tegenwoordig is Magnum een van de bekendste en populairste ijsmerken ter wereld; jaarlijks worden er wereldwijd ongeveer 1 miljard Magnums verkocht.

part II

mar & apr 2013 20 22 27 28

entertainment

‘Like Faust, Amsterdammers have “two souls in one breast”: cyclists are also motorists and vice versa, only each at a different time…’ Linda Bouws, director of Felix Meritis, European Centre for Art, Culture and Science

‘The Night Watch was and is one of the icons of the Rijksmuseum, larger than life, world-famous. The entire Rijksmuseum was built around IT…’

In Bloom (For Dazed & Confused), 2011

Wim Pijbes, director Rijksmuseum

HIGHLIGHTS 13 QUESTIONS FILM

VIVIANE SASSEN: IN AND OUT OF FASHION Bringing together 17 years of work in the fashion world, this eye-popping exhibition features selections from Dutch photographer Viviane Sassen’s award-winning series and campaigns for design powerhouses including Carven and magazines such as Dazed & Confused. Sassen’s intuitive and imaginative style can be flamboyant, contemplative, erotic and surreal – often simultaneously. UNTIL 17 MARCH, HUIS MARSEILLE Keizersgracht 401 www.huismarseille.nl

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

YOGA, FASHION & ART

highlights

Her work is performed as far and wide as Moscow, Vienna and Berlin; now celebrated Latvian theatre director Alvis Hermanis is coming to Amsterdam. text Margriet Prinssen

Gallery Pien Rademakers decided to join this Fashion Week in a different way: a pop-up yoga gallery. Exactly how well do yoga, fashion and art go together? We decided to go have a look and see for ourselves!

s we arrived at the gallery we were in awe at the gorgeous white space, like a blank canvas decorated with art. It was quiet as we went inside, the gallery filled with the soothing chanting of Sasha, today’s yoga instructor. We find ourselves in a very peaceful environment that seemed perfect for admiring art. For fashion week Pien has not only arranged a yoga session, but she had made room for a special fashion art collection with works of Piet Paris, Maarten Alexander, Ester Grass Vergara, Tara Dougans, Tess van Zalinge en Anne Kluytenaar. Varying from high couture shoes to fashion photography, the exhibition shows us that art and fashion are not far from each other. “They don’t always see eye to eye but always make advances toward each other.” You could say fashion and art have a love and hate relationship in a way.

ien Rademakers loves that art and fashion can be very well combined, this inspired her to combine art with more subjects (such as yoga). For instance, she is planning on doing more gallery yoga sessions, and wants to expand her gallery with a wider range of art and activities. Something to keep an eye on, if

you ask us!

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

highlights

Great expectations AMSTERDAM FASHION WEEK text Toby Main

PETER THE GREAT: AN INSPIRED TSAR, 9 mar-13 sep, Hermitage Amsterdam Amstel 51 www.hermitage.nl



‘We’re named after the city of Orlando, Florida, in the United States. I’ve only been once, when I was still in my mother’s belly…’ Fashion queens Jutka & Riska are well known for their wide ranged fashion offer. Eclectic vintage, own design, new fashion and young designers, anything that peaks their interest is worth their time. Jutka & Riska have an outspoken and colorful style that inspires many fashionistas in Amsterdam and beyond. For Fashion Week downtown Jutka & Riska invited some of their closest friends and fellow fashion creatives for their very own fashion fair located inside the Posthoornkerk. A very special location for a great occasion. Young, fashionable girls spend their Saturday shopping in the Posthoornkerk where several small brands have set up their products. Along with the shops there were fashion shows representing each brand and of course Jutka & Riska themselves. Theme of the day was ‘candy’, giving the event a very colorful and sweet atmosphere which seemed very fitting for Jutka & Riska and their brand. Fashion Illustrator Mimi Nizan was there to draw amazing portraits of all the visitors of this very fun fashion fair. With this fair Jutka & Riska wanted to present their spring/summer collection for 2013 with a bang while at the same time giving other brands a platform in this one day pop-up shop. Fashion Week Downtown seemed like the perfect occasion. Are you curious about more Jutka & Riska? Visit one of their stores to check out the new collection. For more on Fashion Week Downtown follow us on Facebook and Twitter.

don’t miss these ROMEO EN JULIA As a tribute to its former artistic director Rudi van Dantzig, who died in January of last year, the Dutch Nationale Ballet is reprising one of the Amsterdam-born choreographer’s best-known and bestloved works. When Dantzig created the ballet in 1967, based of course on Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and accompanied by the rousing music of Prokofiev, it was the very first full-length ballet of Dutch origin, and it set the tone of heightened social and psychological realism that would come to characterise the nation’s dance canon. With its lively Verona street scenes, stately court dances and breathtaking battle scenes, the production has toured the world, but this is your chance to see it on home turf.

ruud baan

JUTKA & RISKA

14 MARCH-1 APRIL, HET MUZIEKTHEATER Waterlooplein 22 www.het-ballet.nl



Royal Inauguration & Queen’s Day Queen’s Day rivals New Year’s Eve in the Netherlands, but celebrations will be downsized in 2013 following the announcement that after 33 years of royal duties, 75-yearold Dutch Queen Beatrix is passing the crown to her eldest son, Willem-Alexander, the country’s first king since 1890. This Queen’s Day, Beatrix will abdicate at the Royal Palace before walking across Dam square to the Nieuwe Kerk, where WillemAlexander will be sworn in. From 2014, King’s Day will be celebrated on 27 April, his birthday.

30 APRIL, AROUND TOWN

WORLD MINIMAL MUSIC FESTIVAL Those unfamiliar with the genre needn’t bring an ear trumpet to Muziekgebouw. Far from being a sparse and bleak affair, minimal music can feature everything from pulsating rhythms to trance-inducingly repetitive sequences of melodies and chords, and is practised by some of the biggest talents in the musical firmament. Want proof? Look no further than the opening-night Kronos Quartet performance Different Trains, written for the group by Steve Reich. Australian composer Ben Frost (pictured) joins the quartet onstage for what promises to be a genre-defining performance.

3-7 APRIL, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ Piet Heinkade 1 www.minimalmusicfestival.nl



part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

ruud van Zwet

highlights

13 questions Daisy Kroon disenger and companie holder, gives her take on Amsterdam. text Megan Roberts photo Maarten Brinkgrere



‘ Only Art matters’ 1. WHAT’S YOUR FIRST AMSTERDAM memory? Ice and sand: ice on the pond of the Vondelpark where I skated and sand in the sandbox on the Museumplein. 2. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE AMSTERDAM-RELATED WORK OF ART? The work of the German artist Max Beckmann during his Amsterdam period. 3. IF SOMEONE HAs A SINGLE DAY IN AMSTERDAM, WHAT should they DO? Grab a bike and go cycling. Let yourself be seduced by what you find along the way: explore the Amsterdam canals; catch a ferry to Noord; go to the Dappermarkt, and if you still have the energy, go through the Nine Streets. 4. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE STATUE IN THE CITY? The Holocaust Memorial in the Jewish cultural quarter. The

name of my mother’s family is there to read: they have no grave so this is a place to remember them. 5. IN WHICH BUILDING WOULD YOU WANT TO SPEND THE NIGHT? The Amstel Hotel. 6. WHAT IS THE BEST CHARACTERISTIC OF YOUR FELLOW CITIZENS? They are direct and fairly straightforward. 7. WHAT’S THE WORST? They have a short fuse. 8. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE MODE OF TRANSPORT? I do basically everything in the city by bike. 9. TELL US someTHING ABOUT THE CITY WE DoN’T KNOW. Like Faust, Amsterdammers have ‘two souls in one breast’, and they can become engrossed

in both. Foreign visitors often think that a kind of armed truce exists between cyclists and motorists. And it’s true: cyclists are also motorists and vice versa, only each at a different time. 10. WHERE is THE BEST VIEW OF AMSTERDAM? At the Observatory of Felix Meritis: you really get an amazing 360-degree view. We reopen the Observatory in our 225th anniversary year, with an exhibition connecting the stars, the canals and landmarks in the city. Four telescopes are not aimed at the sky but at quotes, in neon letters on buildings throughout the city. Only from the Observatory are they all readable. ‘Desire is the very essence of man’ by Spinoza adorns De Nederlandsche Bank; Vondel’s ‘The world’s a stage’ is visible on the city theatre. From 19 April until the end of October you can visit and dream a little about the greatness of our city (www.felix.meritis.nl).

11. WHAT DELICACY IS ONLY AVAILABLE here? There are at least two that you should taste; I myself cannot choose between the stroopwafels from Lanskroon (www. lanskroon.nl) and the sweetbread croquettes from Holtkamp on the Vijzelstraat (www.patisserieholtkamp.nl). 12. WHAT RESTAURANT do YOU RECOMMEND? I really love the casual atmosphere of Café Restaurant Amsterdam (www.cradam.nl).  And if you like personal service and excellent cuisine in an intimate atmosphere, Aan de Amstel (www.aan-de-amstel. nl), from the renowned cook and cookbook writer Yvette van Boven, is for you. 13. What is your favourite public building? Schiphol, an airport in proportion to the size of megalomaniac Amsterdam, but intimate with its nice tight simplicity. 

part II ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

EYE-catcher

film



Amsterdam boasts more art-house theatres than any other European city. Dutch Film Institute EYE could be called the mothership of them all.

iwan baan

text Bregtje Schudel

s it a bird, drying its feathers on the northern banks of the River IJ? A plane, perhaps – or a UFO? As it happens, it’s none of the above. It’s the new home of the Dutch Film Institute, the EYE. A year since the opening, EYE is brooding on a new festival in April, keep an eye on their website for details. Many a film-lover had to wipe away a tear when it was announced that EYE – then known as the Filmmuseum – would leave the lush surroundings of the Vondelpark, which it had called home since 1975. But even the most sentimen-

tal of movie buffs would have to admit that, although ideally and idyllically situated, EYE’s former digs – with a paltry two theatres and a measly 160 seats – seriously cramped the style of what should have been a shining beacon of film culture. And shine the new EYE certainly does. As a glimmering ivory-scaled siren it beckons us to come over to the other side, to up-and-coming Amsterdam-Noord, a mere three minutes away by (free) ferry. The architects deliberately created a construction that never looks quite the same, subtly shifting depending on

the viewing angle and time of day, mimicking the illusive quality of the silver screen itself. Once inside you won’t be disappointed. EYE’s four theatres can now house over 600 visitors; its immense exhibition hall has already played host to the celebrated Stanley Kubrick exhibition (now on display in LA). Film festivals including Cinedans (1-9 March; see page 26) and Imagine (17-28 April) have been welcomed with open arms. From classics to own distributions, from retrospectives to lectures, there’s something here for everyone.

highlight

Designers

Don’t miss this movie in Eye

Broken A quietly moving coming-ofage film seen through the eyes of young Skunk (a strong debut by Eloise Laurence). When a local girl accuses an unstable neighbour of rape, it has unforeseen consequences for the whole community. Based on the novel by Daniel Clay. Simon. Direction: Eddy Terstall. Screening: 13 March, 19.00 170Hz. Direction: Joost van Ginkel. Screening: 17 April, 19.00

Direction: Rufus Norris Release: 7 March

Roze Film Dagen Keep your eye out for the 16th edition of the Amsterdam gay & lesbian film festival, at Het Ketelhuis. Our top pick this year: 2011’s Cloudburst, starring Olympia Dukakis as an ageing lesbian, who escapes her nursing home and heads for Canada to marry her lover. 13-24 March, Het Ketelhuis, Pazzanistraat 13 www.rozefilmdagen.nl

Hitchcock Behind every great man is a great woman. Director Sacha Gervasi has really taken this

saying to heart in Hitchcock, which is more about the relationship between the director (played with relish by Anthony Hopkins) and wife Alma (Helen Mirren) than about the making of Psycho. Direction: Sacha Gervasi Release: 14 March

A Late Quartet When Peter (Christopher Walken), a cellist in a successful string quartet, is diagnosed with earlyonset Parkinson’s, the whole ensemble starts to crumble. An insightful and subtle drama with stellar performances. Direction: Yaron Silberman Release: 28 March

Johan van der Keuken exhibition Van der Keuken (1938-2001) was doubly gifted: he filmed with a photographer’s eye and shot photos with the insight of a mo-

part III

eat drink chic ‘THERE’S AN ARTY ATMOSPHERE TO THE JORDAAN; PLENTY OF GALLERIES AND TRENDY, INDEPENDENT FASHION SHOPS.’ Serge Stork, 17, student and drummer in a band

Hipsters, expats, businessmen and gold-diggers all flock to IZAKAYA, creating a mesmerising spectacle to accompany top-notch food…

mar & apr 2013 32 38 40 41 42 44

NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH: THE JORDAAN EATING OUT ON THE MENU CHOCOLATE COUTURE PRETTY THINGS WHAT’S IN STORE

mercat Inspired by legendary Spanish market halls such as Barcelona’s Mercat de la Boqueria (and not, it turns out, by the small African mammal), new kid on the eastern block Mercat overtakes the industrial dining space of former club Panama. Unsurprisingly, the menu lingers lovingly over Catalan and Spanish classics (tapas, paella), the wine list is extensive (four cavas, 11 whites, two rosés, 12 reds, two dessert wines plus three sherries) and the atmosphere lively, from breakfast until late. Oostelijke Handelskade 4 www.mercat.nl

neighbourhood watch

part III eat, drink & chic

The Jordaan, by then an overcrowded, impoverished neighbourhood, had become a left-wing bastion. SPRMRKT There’s something heady about stepping into this 450m2 den of fashion, with its dozens of racks hanging from the glass and metal ceiling. The clothes are as architectural as the space; in addition to carrying brands such as Helmut Lang, co-founder Nelleke Strijkers has launched her own collection, SPRB, for which her use of textures won an IAF award. Rozengracht 191-193 http://sprmrkt.nl



Boca’s Ever wish you could have a bite of each dish on the menu? Boca’s is for you. Open from 10am until the wee smalls, this friendly little café-bar-restaurant offers fresh mini-sandwiches for lunch, and platters and bites for dinner. The plethora of dishes is indiscriminately world-inspired: from French cheeses to steak chimichurri, and scallop carpaccio, there’s a mouthful for everyone.



Westerstraat 30 www.bar-bocas.nl

hen strolling around the dainty, crooked streets of the Jordaan today, it’s difficult to comprehend that the neighbourhood used to be a pit of poverty on the verge of demolition. Constructed in the early 17th century, when Amsterdam’s first Golden Age saw a steady influx of wealthy European immigrants, the Jordaan was originally dubbed the Nieuwe Werck (‘New Work’), as it housed the working-class artisans, carpenters and masons toiling away to expand the city’s boundaries. It even became Rembrandt’s last home following his bankruptcy in 1655; a tenant at Rozengracht 184 (a former canal that now serves as the district’s main east-to-west traffic artery), he also hired a small studio on nearby Bloemgracht. However, by the 19th century, the Jordaanese population had exploded to number 80,000, and the living conditions had severely deteriorated. There was a shortage of drinking water, the canals were filthy dumping grounds and families lived crammed by the dozen in tiny derelict lodgings. ‘A hundred years ago, it was very dangerous here,’ says Joca Feths, who has lived in the area for more than 50 years. ‘Children were not allowed on the streets after dark, and women stayed at home. It was a rowdy, rebellious neighbourhood.’ The neglect that came with the Nazi occupation during World War II was the final nail in the Jordaan’s coffin, and there were talks of demolishing the entire district in the 1960s. But the fortunate, timely birth of monument conservation laws saved the neighbourhood – which today is enclosed by four picturesque canals: Brouwersgracht to the north, Leidsegracht to the south, Prinsengracht to the east and Lijnbaansgracht to the west. Houses were renovated, the most putrid canals (including Rozen-

‘There’s an arty atmosphere to the neighbourhood; plenty of galleries and trendy, independent fashion shops.’

Maike de Vries, 26

researcher at a media agency

‘I love the Jordaan on Queen’s Day. It’s very busy and festive, and all the cafés organise parties.’

W ille m sst raa t

cht ansgra Lijnba



Eg ela Blo nti em ers gra gra cht cht Roz eng rac ht

Lau rier gra cht Elan dsgr acht



Loo iers grac ht

We ste rst raa t

Lin de ng rac ht

   N mo

arkord t er-

 acht

gr en ns Pri

Leid seg rach t

Antiek Centrum

Like This

Amsterdam’s own byzantine bazaar, this 1,750m2 treasure trove of antiques, art, and jewellery stores holds everything and anything from kitsch-as-Chrostmas porcelain dogs to rare art deco pieces at the more refined shops. While it’s the perfect stop for gift shopping, getting lost in the maze of aisles overflowing with curiosa is also a lovely way to spend a rainy Sunday afternoon.

Bold blocky prints and colourful woollen sweaters catch the eye in the window of this little fashion shop freshly opened in December 2012. In addition to carrying their own brand, Urs Hasham (pictured) and Fleur van Noesel wanted to bring their favourite rare finds to Holland. Their picks range from Scandi stalwrats to Japanese accessories and scents like I Hate Perfume.



Elandsgracht 109 www.antiekcentrumamsterdam.nl

Westerstraat 70 likethis.nl



Brouwersgracht

Serge Stork, 17

student and drummer in a band, with Corine Nas, 18

part III eat, drink & chic

neighbourhood watch

The Jordaan became Rembrandt’s last home following his bankruptcy. gracht and Elandsgracht) were filled in, and the famed garden court-yards (hofjes) built by rich 17th-century benefactors for the impoverished elderly were granted preservation status. While the exact origin of the name ‘Jordaan’ remains a mystery, it was possibly these gardens (from the French jardin) that coined it. After all, many streets in the area still bear the names of flowers (Bloemgracht – flower canal; Egelantiersgracht – sweet briar canal, Palmstraat – palm street…) and there’s barely a street that doesn’t boast trees and shrubbery, fragrant bougainvillaea or cascading foliage.

Delicatessen Jwo Lekkernijen Jwo Lekkernijen is one of those sinful dens of culinary delight where one shouldn’t shop hungry. Specialised in pan-European gourmet foodstuffs, they carry everything from choucroute and cassoulet to wine, cheese and charcuterie. They also prepare fresh products perfect for picnicking (think homemade quiches and riotously colourful salads). Your palate will thank you for the pit stop. 2e Goudsbloemdwarsstraat 1 www.jwo-lekkernijen.nl



COFFEE AND MEMORIES ‘The Jordaan is the perfect combination of my two favourite things: walking around and discovering new places to drink my coffee,’ divulges Jordaan local Robert Veltman. Indeed, new cafés seem to pop up on a weekly basis, complete with sunny terraces, fancy menus and friendly service. But up many narrow steps (a staple of the neighbourhood, along with characteristically low ceilings) also lie hundred-year-old brown cafés with a more muted, candlelit atmosphere. This is where the locals hang out, read their newspapers and lament the gentrification of the area. ‘The Jordaan has changed in the past 20 years; it’s a coveted area for expats and the companies which relocate them are ready to pay higher prices, so the rents have increased dramatically,’ regrets Feths. Nonetheless, the district has retained the crea-

Café Hegeraad A staple of the neighbourhood for more than 100 years, Café Hegeraad is especially famous for its thick, luscious apple pie. From the rich woodwork, blood-red carpeting and old-world wallpaper, you’d expect to find a table of smoking mobsters playing checkers in the backroom, but the crowd is mostly locals and old-timers with a fondness for tradition, newspapers and quiet conversation.

Noordermarkt 34 www.cafehegeraad.nl

Juffrouw Splinter This little shop of vintage memorabilia and curiosa should be renamed ‘everything is adorable’: it’s more twee than a basket of kittens. Jolijn Bosma, who opened the shop ten years ago, is a master at gathering the endearing: old toys, painted boxes, porcelain tableware and dozens of other decorative objects inhabit the first floor of the shop while the basement level holds romantic, shabby-chic hand-painted furniture.

Prinsengracht 230 www.juffrouwsplinter.nl

AN EEL-Y GOOD TIME Before the days of PETA, the Jordaanese had quite the fun passtime: stringing a rope across a canal and hanging a live, soap-smeared eel from it, participants gathered on small boats beneath it and tried to catch said eel. The game was outlawed in the mid-19th century, but the Jordaan, by then an overcrowded, impoverished neighbourhood, had become a left-wing bastion. Tired of living in squalor, the inhabitants had developed an infamously short fuse. One summer’s day in 1886, a well-intentioned policeman interrupted the eel-pulling fun, triggering the outrage of the residents and what turned into a violent, four-day riot. The army was eventually called in to quash the rebellion and 26 people died, with more than a hundred injured. Miraculously, the eel survived to tell the tale.

part III eat, drink & chic

eating out

Our top dining options, from firm favourites to precocious newcomers.

text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

Rose’s Cantina

Reguliersdwarsstraat 38 www.rosescantina.com



new in town

ot technically ‘new in town’, since Rose’s Cantina has been dishing up Mexican staples and fantastic cocktails for more than 30 years, but the restaurant’s recent concept change and fancy refit brings it back into the spotlight. Rose’s startling rejuvenation began when the owners teamed up with local entrepreneur Casper Reinders – the creative force behind Amsterdam hotspots such as Jimmy Woo, Bo Cinq and Lion Noir. Reinders’ first step towards a new and improved Rose’s Cantina? Colours of the sea. The walls and ceiling of the bar area were painted a fashionable, chalky emerald green, while the rooms in the back are now a more subdued petrol blue, the perfect backdrop for the antiques and trouvailles Reinders has collected on his many travels: vintage Mexican tables, beatup old Chesterfield chairs, a model aeroplane, a stuffed bird. Next step in the upgrade process: a new menu. Out with the long list of Mexican tortilla variations and in with a modern take on Pan-American cuisine – think delicious Peruvian ceviche (fish cured in lime juice) and grilled meat with Argentinian chimichurri. Mexican food aficionados needn’t worry, though: the empanadas, quesadillas and nachos todos remain – although the execution is a little more sophisticated than previously. One of the only things that hasn’t changed is the superlative cocktail menu – thank goodness.

eating out

  

37 trendy Izakaya Located in the vibrant De Pijp neighbourhood you’ll find this superb Asian kitchen and bar. IZAKAYA serves market-fresh fish, mouth-watering sushi rolls and irresistible Japanese dishes with a twist: think scallops with truffle and yuzu. Executive chef Hariprasad Shetty, previously head chef of London’s über-fashionable sleb-spot Nobu, has designed the innovative menu with the traditional Japanese grill at its heart – but the cocktail bar seems to be part of the attraction too. Hipsters, businessmen and gold-diggers all flock here, creating an interesting spectacle to accompany your high-quality food.

Albert Cuypstraat 2-6 www.izakaya-amsterdam.com

critics’ choice De Goudvis Club

ocated in the city centre, this laidback bar serves great street food. If that brings to mind the automated holein-the-wall machines dotted about Amsterdam, serving up indeterminate meat-based products to late-night revellers, think again. This is Asian streetfood, and in Asia streetfood is a way of life. De Goudvis Club has put the best of Oriental snacking on the menu: think chickpea pakora from the streets of Bombay or Peking duck from a food stall in Beijing – even ‘sophisticated’ dishes like Japanese beef tataki are on the menu. Inside this historic, high-ceilinged building the goldfish mural on one wall is the only real decoration. But you don’t need a fancy interior when the music, food and wines are just right.



Spuistraat 4 www.degoudvisclub.nl

classic café Schiller

quick & simple Uliveto Alimetari This Italian-Mediterranean deli is hands-down the best panini place in town (try the one with buffalo mozzarella, radicchio and pumpkin: it’s superb). Also recommended: great pastas, salads and meat or fish dishes that you can either take-out or enjoy sitting down in the minimalist decor of this high-ceilinged corner shop. Weteringschans 118 www.uliveto.net



If walls could talk, Café Schiller’s would definitely have some tales to tell. Over a hundred years old, Schiller is a unique establishment that has hosted the Amsterdam chic and arty for decades – and a surprise find on the otherwise neon tourist trap of the Rembrandtplein. The period interior boasts original art-deco lamps, wallpaper and furniture. Enjoy a good glass of wine in the bar or fine French food – soupe de poisson, steak tartare, confit de canard – in the restaurant. Rembrandtplein 24 www.cafeschiller.nl

part III eat, drink & chic

on the menu

Three of a kind to suit every palate. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

asian fusion

mediterranean

international

Blauw

A Tavola

ANNA

Slick Indonesian restaurant in the south of Amsterdam. The design may be modern, but the food is traditional and mouth-watering: sate ayam, rendang and other specialties from the Spice Islands. Try the Rijsttafel – a Dutch colonial invention, literally ‘rice table‘ – sampling menu to get a taste of it all.

This Italian restaurant between the Scheepvaart Museum (National Maritime Museum) and Waterlooplein serves a small but carefully-selected menu of meat, fish and pasta dishes. A Tavola means ‘at the table’, so simply pull up a chair for some authentic Italian food and excellent wines.

Located in the oldest part of Amsterdam, with views of the Oude Kerk church, restaurant ANNA serves contemporary dishes of the highest quality. The food on your plate is as beautiful as the decor, yet the prices are reasonable and the atmosphere refreshingly relaxed. A great choice for an unforgettable evening.

Amstelveenseweg 158-160 www.restaurantblauw.nl

Kadijksplein 9 www.atavolarestaurant.nl

Warmoesstraat 111 www.restaurantanna.nl

Take Thai

Barça

Brasserie Harkema

Not your average Thai restaurant: with its stylish, minimalist decor, tables laid with quality linen and a more-than-respectable wine list, Take Thai ups the ante, taking things to the next level. The menu is classic Thai with the occasional innovative variation thrown in: think delicious spicy duck in cognac sauce.

Serving up a menu of authentic Catalan titbits, including patatas bravas, padron peppers and shrimp croquettes, this slick bar offers a large heated terrace overlooking Marie Heinekenplein. Inspired by the warmth and friendliness of Spain, the staff here is attentive and the attention to detail impressive.

A contemporary Dutch take on the classic Parisian brasserie, situated in a former tobacco factory in the Old Centre, Harkema boasts more breathing space than most Amsterdam restaurants. Besides the obvious brasserie classics (oysters, steak) you can choose from a range of Asian-inspired dishes.

Utrechtsestraat 87 www.takethai.com

Marie Heinekenplein 30-31 www.barca.nl

Nes 67 www.brasserieharkema.nl

Yokiyo

Lion Noir

Burgermeester

Head to the Red Light District for a taste of authentic Korean cuisine. Named for the word used to attract a waiter’s attention in Korea, stylish restaurant Yokiyo serves spicy soups, intriguing wraps, barbecued organic chicken and delicious seafood from the open kitchen – until 2am on Fridays and Saturdays.

At this beautifully decorated hotspot you can feast on fine French cuisine – or simply opt for a few cocktails and bar bites on the ground floor (which quickly gets packed with bright young things on weekends). On warm days it’s possible to eat in the lovely garden of this 17th-century former coach house.

This culinary burger place has several venues, all with at least eight burgers to choose from, ranging from organic Blonde d’Aquitaine beef to wild salmon. And vegetarians haven’t been neglected (the lentil burgers are allegedly top-class). But be warned: you won’t find French fries here.

Oudezijds Voorburgwal 67 www.yokiyo.nl

Reguliersdwarsstraat 28 www.lionnoir.nl

Albert Cuypstraat 48, Elandsgracht 130, Plantage Kerklaan 37 www.deburgermeester.nl

on the menu

Chocolate couture

Contemporary cocoa connoisseurs are raising the (chocolate) bar.

ack in the day, you could pick up a cheap chocolate bar from the supermarket and everybody would be happy. Recently, however, a new quality standard for chocolate has surfaced in Amsterdam. Specialised stores are popping up everywhere to fulfil the desires of these new chocolate connoisseurs. The most recent addition is Hotel Chocolat (a British import), where you can purchase meant-for-the-freezer bonbons and even cocoa-flavoured olive oil, as well as sampling their cocoa-derived coffee alternatives in the tasting room upstairs. Unlimited Delicious, meanwhile, is famous for its extraordinary flavour s, which include pink peppercorn or rosemary.

And as we always suspected, size really does matter these days. From the giant Puccini Bomboni bar thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fit to share, to the tiny tasty Van Roselen offerings that ensure instant gratification, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re definitely raising the bar. Hotel Chocolat Heiligeweg 7 www.hotelchocolat.co.uk Unlimited Delicious Haarlemmerstraat 122 www.unlimiteddelicious.nl Puccini Bomboni Staalstraat 17, Singel 184 www.puccinibomboni.com Van Roselen Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 72

pretty things

part III eat, drink & chic

Pretty things Purses at the ready: these tempting stores will have you reaching for your credit card. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

Hôtel Droog

new in town

What: Dutch Design collective Droog, the brain child of product designer Gijs Bakker and design historian Renny Ramakers, has extended its Amsterdam showroom featuring beautiful furniture and gift items to include fashion and cosmetics, a café and even a (single-room) hotel with ‘fairy-tale garden’. Interior: Detailed and inventive, as you’d expect from a design collective. The historic 17th-century building has been transformed into a ‘house’ with themed rooms. On the ground floor you’ll find a gallery, furniture and gifts; up-

stairs are rooms for food & drinks, fashion and cosmetics.

exclusive beauty products from all over the world.

Collection: Droog furniture classics are displayed to be bought or admired, including classics such as the Shady Lace parasol by Chris Kabel; Tejo Remy’s Milk Bottle Lamp and Joris Laarmans’ Heatwave Radiator. The gift shop stocks smaller products by Droog and ‘Friends of Droog’ (designers of whom they approve), from stylish ceramics and pillowcases to smile-inducing children’s beakers. Upstairs, fashion store Het Kabinet specialises in high-fashion brands such as Isabel Marant, Rick Owens and Avelon. Further down the hall, Cosmania sells

Must Have: The Chest of Drawers by Tejo Remy is a classic design object with a foreboding ‘price upon request’ tag. For those with a smaller budget, there’s a lot of nicely designed stuff to be found in the gift shop. Conclusion: A place where design junkies and fashion-lovers feel right at home. You can hang out for hours, enjoying a homemade organic lunch before scoring those extra special gifts to take home.



Staalstraat 7b www.hoteldroog.com

pet shop Vovnjau In the stylish southern district of Amsterdam you’ll find an original pet boutique, with the unusual name Vovnjau (‘woof’ in Danish). Here they sell luxury goods and fashionable accessories for cats and dogs whose owners have an eye for design: think essentials such as a faux-snakeskin collar, a Fatboy dog bed and ‘Jimmy Chew’ toys in the shape of stiletto heels...

candy

Willemsparkweg 68 www.vovnjau.nl

Papabubble Witness the creation of designer candy at Papabubble, made right in front of you in one of the two lovely shops. Choose artisan multicoloured sweets in hundreds of flavours – including eucalyptus and mojito – or opt for customised candy. You can even order a batch of sweetness with your own name or company logo on it.

& Staalstraat 16

Haarlemmerdijk 70 www.papabubble.nl

classic Hema Ask a Dutchman abroad what he can’t do without, and there‘s a big chance he’ll say HEMA, an affordable department store that only sells its own brand (like M&S five years ago, but half the price). Designs range from minimal to Cath Kidston-esque, and are invariably well thought through. You’ll find everything from kitchen tools and toys to beauty products and even food (try their famous and slightly greasy sausage, putting the Dutch name, worst, out of mind if you can). Read more on page 15. Kalverstraat 212 www.hema.nl

 

and throughout the city

part III eat, drink & chic

what’s in store

what’s in store These fashion-forward style emporiums will have you (m/f) turning heads. text Zin (Famke & Floor van Praag)

      

American Apparel (M/F)

Lock Stock & Barrel (M/F)

Famous for its sexy (sleazy?) ads featuring girl-next-door types, American Apparel is the place to go for basic, sustainable clothes, from typical American sportswear to fashionable frocks and hosiery. All garments are guaranteed sweatshop-free and are made in Los Angeles.

One of the main attractions of fashion boutique Lock Stock & Barrel is its emerald-green tiled floor, which everybody loves. Fortunately, the clothes and accessories they sell have the same effect. Stocks an eclectic mix of styles, from easy-chic Parisian to minimalist Scandinavian, for men and women, as well as shoes and jewellery.



Westerstraat 59 & Utrechtsestraat 85 www.americanapparel.net





Hartenstraat 26 www.lockstockbarrel.nl

AnnLiz (F) The owner of AnnLiz, on one of the picturesque Nine Streets, has teamed up with the best eco brands from around the globe, such as Alchemist, Camilla Norrback and the rebellious Mini-Rodini for kids. This means buying the coolest stuff for women and children with a clear conscience. AnnLiz also stocks some interior accessories and gifts – all sustainable, of course.

Reestraat 16 www.annliz.comm

Look Out (M) Located in a monumental corner house on the Utrechtsestraat, Look Out sells well-sourced designer clothes for men. While you try on some chic or casual wear by brands like Paul Smith, Kenzo, Nicole Fahri and CP Company, the Mrs may want to hop across the street to the women’s version.



Utrechtsstraat 93 www.lookoutmode.com

Concrete (M/F)

Maison Scotch (M/F)

Concrete, on the Spuistraat, specialises in arty sportswear and designer toys. This unusual shop has clothes you won’t find on every street corner: specialedition sneakers by Nike, Pony and Adidas, but also men’s and women’s clothing from Billionaire Boys Club, Penfield and Won Hundred.

From the house of Amsterdam-based label Scotch & Soda, Maison Scotch focuses on laid-back fashion. In the shop you’ll find an eclectic collection of classic staples and ‘rock-chic’ essentials. Scotch & Soda is building a small empire in the Nine Streets shopping district, with shops for jeans (Blauw) and children’s wear (Scotch Shrunk/Scotch R’Belle) nearby.



Spuistraat 250 www.concrete.nl

Joe Merino (M) Pullovers aplenty, but have you found the perfect one yet? One that doesn’t lose its shape or start pilling? Joe Merino offers only one product: fitted men’s pullovers made of the finest quality Australian merino wool. This perfect pull comes in six sizes, 35 colours and costs a reasonable €97.



Kerkstraat 169 www.joemerino.com



Huidenstraat 3-5 www.scotch-soda.com

Ready to Fish_ (F) Ready to fish_ is the prêt-a-porter line of well-known Dutch fashion designer Ilja Visser. The brand store on the Prinsengracht is where you’ll find wearable, everyday clothing, furniture and lighting fixtures, as well as art, accessories, fragrances and chocolate. Prinsengracht 581-583 www.readytofish.nl

All

brands you could

possibly desire

De Bijenkorf is the leading shopping destination in Amsterdam. This luxury department store offers the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most exclusive brands, such as Louis Vuitton, HermĂ¨s and Gucci. Come and visit our store on Dam Square in Amsterdam