VOLUME 1 // ISSUE 4
SHIFT MAGAZINE
INTO THE WOODS / BITE ME / SIGNAL LOST
APRIL 2015
SHIFT
w
MAGAZINE
MANAGING EDITOR Alex Holmes DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION Zoha Momin DESIGN EDITOR Haley Fox
CONTENT EDITOR Melissa Freeland
PHOTO EDITOR
FEATURES EDITOR
Paige Comrie
Lauren Guldan
EDITORS-AT-LARGE
SHEI SALES EDITOR Samantha Zwick
Sola Muno & Aaron Pelo
MARKETING EDITOR Shannon King EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Anna Fuller
Mary Molepske
Our mission is to inform, inspire and engage deeply with the University of Michigan campus community at the intersection of student and professional life within the fashion industry. SHIFT is intended to provide a marketable media platform for students to push the boundaries of what has traditionally been possible within print without compromising the level of quality associated with the SHEI brand.
o1
L E T T E R F R O M T H E E D I TO R
IN OUR ELEMENT
T
For our fourth issue, we’re finally in the swing of things.
his month we pare SHIFT down to the essentials, concentrating, distilling and breaking it down to the core elements that make a magazine informative and engaging. The core of the Michigan student is a passion for learning that goes beyond the classroom, we follow Ann Arbor based rapper MUNCH from class to the stage, where his creative energy is at its height. In RADAR, Cyndi of Lily Grace cosmetics reveals the detailed curation of beauty products that make her business one of the best salons in the city. In the business of fashion, we don’t always have the choice to decide where our clothes come from, but in Sew and Sow we are able to critically examine the infrastructure that brings fashion from the fields to the shopfloor and explore pesticide free alternatives to contemporary fast fashion brands.
Follow us as we delve Into the Woods, to explore the connections between humanity and habitat. How the water, the wind and sunlight of the woods have the potential awaken our true and deeper natures. But what happens when the connection between our environment and our inner selves is broken? In Signal Lost, we observe the confusion of one trying to reconcile the disconnect between what he wants to communicate, and the channels available to express those desires. This April, get in touch with your inner self and...
o2
CONTRIBUTORS
SHIFT MAGAZINE
SHEI MAGAZINE’S DIGITAL MINI STYLING
debbie cheng jessi chudler
olivia meszaros
maddie rabe
haley fox
amily yang
marie corozza
aishawarya singh
chidi bosah kailtyn moore
anna he
arianna dixon
elise jayakar sophie williams tasha lin
LITERATURE lily shipp
merin mcdevitt
lotte hurkmans
bridget cook
lauren guldan
eleni mouzakis
PHOTOGRAPHERS allie chase tina yu
brady bathison
paige comrie
rachel beglin
lauren guldan
christina oh
olivia meszaros
rachel beglin
MODELS shelby beattie
o3
aaron pelo
mara moldovan
chloe chung
IN THIS ISSUE
TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
ABOUT THE COVER:
Fashion // In this issue we wanted to look at essesnces, to things in their purest form. This idea of getting to the singular element of things birthed several very different ideas, that somehow work together perfectly. The cover photo is from the shoot “signal Lost,” which follows the adventures of Dave, a robot who may be a little out of place but is ready to meet the world.
15
27
37
02
LETTER FROM THE EDITORS
03
CONTRIBUTORS
05
MUSIC & CULTURE Ann Arbor band Yada Yada isn’t all talk and a guitar.
07
RADAR: CYNDI CLARK We caught up with local entrepreneur and makeup mastermind Cyndi Clark in her natural habitat--her store, Lily Grace Cosmetics.
11
SEW AND SOW Get in the know on the world of green clothing and fashion.
15
INTO THE WOODS
27
BITE ME. You’re a wolf among the sheep. Keep your teeth sharp.
35
STUDENT SPOTLIGHT: MAHER “MUNCH” HACHEM
37
SIGNAL LOST
o4
M U S I C & C U LT U R E
YADA YADA o5
I
t’s 11 pm on a Friday night, and Conor Anderson, Ian Klipa, and Rowan Niemisto—the members who make up the band Yada Yada—are just starting to trickle into the recording studio. The atmosphere is casual as they start to set up their equipment before the recording session begins. The band, which went through a number of names, including Monte and the Drifters and Popliteal Fossa (the anatomical term for the back of the knee), before landing on Yada Yada, was formed at the University of Michigan where Anderson, Klipa, and Niemisto all met. While none of them are in the music school—Anderson and Niemisto are LSA seniors while Klipa is a senior in the School of Art and Design—they do all have musical backgrounds. Niemisto’s father is a music teacher and musician, and Anderson spent his younger years playing in what he describes as a “Nirvana grunge band.” Meanwhile, Klipa started out playing cello and bagpipes before moving on to a “more rocky, guitar and drums based setup with friends,” as he called it, in middle and high school. Interestingly enough, Klipa did not own a drum set until college, which is an impressive feat considering he is now Yada Yada’s drummer. As onlookers observe the band in studio, it becomes clear that these guys are not just band mates, but also close friends, having lived together since sophomore year. “[Rowan] played guitar, I played bass, and then we needed some drums...and we all just wrote some songs,” Anderson added. And while each of the members puts a great deal of time and effort into the band, Yada Yada is still primarily a hobby. It is something they spend their free time working on because they love it. “I wouldn’t call it hard, because it’s something we enjoy doing. It’s just what happens when we sit in a room,” Niemisto said, as he described how the band finds a balance between academics and music. And based on the nature of the band, it is not surprising that their songwriting process follows this same relaxed method as well. “One of us comes to the table with a song, and we just work it until we can play it together and it sounds good,” Anderson said. “We put all the ideas out there and then
just try to piece them together.” While there is certainly a laid-back feel to the band’s indie pop style and their creative process, their drive and motivation is apparent in their work. As the band starts to record, their focus is clear; they even end up playing one song at least five times, staying late into the night to re-record until happy with the final product. The sense of collaboration seen in Yada Yada’s process also extends beyond the band and throughout the Ann Arbor music community. Jonah Baseball, another local musician who lives with the band members, joined Yada Yada in the studio to play keyboard on a song they recorded. The band often plays shows with him, as well as with other local artists such as Tusks, Tony Mendez, and JLA. “It’s come together a lot in the last year; it seems like there’s way more of a sense of some sort of unity,” Klipa said. “We end up playing with the same bands a lot, so relationships have grown naturally just from that.” Despite the band’s current drive and motivation, future aspirations for each of the members aren’t exactly crystal clear. The band breaks into a round of laughter before attempting to describe their plans for the future—“World domination,” Anderson relayed jokingly. At the moment, they’re working on finishing a five-song project called Oochy Wah Wah, which they hope to release in a few weeks. All three of them will be in Ann Arbor for the summer, and they plan on performing as much as possible. After that the future is unclear, but judging by the depth of friendship between the members of the group, it seems likely that Yada Yada will live on in one form or another. And considering how talented this trio is, let’s hope that is the case.
BY LILY SHIPP PHOTOS BY CHRISTINA OH
CLICK HERE TO WATCH YADA YADA PERFORM LIVE, AND DISCOVER MORE OF THEIR MUSIC AT
yadayada.bandcamp.com o6
RADAR CYNDI CL ARK
o7
A
s corporations like Sephora and Ulta continue to dominate the mass culture of makeup and other beauty products, it’s refreshing to encounter independent shops that place such great value on customer experience. At Lily Grace Cosmetics in downtown Ann Arbor, Cyndi Clark runs her store with the careful curation and attention to detail that creates meaningful, long-lasting relationships with every new and returning customer that steps into the beautiful natural light of the store. Lily Grace, fetchingly named after Clark’s granddaughter, is the result of many years of varied experience in the beauty industry. Clark got her start as a counter manager for Clinique at the Briarwood Mall in Ann Arbor and made her way up the ranks of the industry by exploring new avenues with various companies. She spent five years as Divisional Sales Manger for Cosmetics and Fragrances for Jacobson’s in addition to many years working as both a retailer and an executive for lines like Clinique, Estee Lauder, Lancôme, DDF, and Cosmedicine. Clark’s journey through the industry landed her in a prime position to own and operate the successful cosmetic shop where she combines an in-depth knowledge of topics in beauty with a true understanding of the science behind the products she selects for the store. “We stock smaller brands that are exclusive; they’re very selective of where they choose to go, so they may only be in 100 or 200 points of distribution across the United States,” Clark said. “They want to go with someone who represents them in their holistic way, in their natural form.” While many corporations continue to market products that
include synthetically engineered ingredients, what sets stores like Lily Grace apart is a dedication to products whose chemists make the origin of the ingredients a clear point of interest. Clark, who has worked with a number of cosmetic chemists, understands the difference between products that are labeled as organic as opposed to products that contain truly plant-based and natural ingredients. For instance, a product whose formula contains just one or two organic ingredients can technically be labeled as organic, so customers often need to understand this distinction when choosing natural products. And while Lily Grace is not a 100% natural store, the commitment to more natural products is certainly a trait that prevails throughout the brands they stock. “It’s very curated upstairs; I don’t just bring everyone in,” Clark said. “I get so much stuff every day wanting to come here, but I don’t always bring them in if it’s not something that I want to bring in.” The cosmetics industry has been steadily increasing its promotion of natural products over the past decade. Clark had a passion for discussing ingredients with her customers before it was trendy, and has found in more recent years that this discussion has started to become more of a two-way street. “I think the difference now is night and day. The consumer is so intelligent about what they’re using that it’s just a lot of fun,” Clark said. “I always talked about the ingredients and it wasn’t so important, but now it’s pretty cool because [customers] like to talk about ingredients as well.” With Clark’s in-depth knowledge of product science and customer experience, she has been moving more towards products that appear in forms closest to
o8
their natural states. “I want to go more holistic, more natural,” Clark said. “I want the delivery systems to be more plant-derived.” As cosmetics customers began to open up to the dialogue that informs them of their product choices, Lily Grace was a perfect place for people living locally to learn more about the changing dynamic in the industry. “When I first opened up, [the customers] especially started to notice some of the brands that they might not have known about, or that they read about on blogs but never really got to see or feel, that are suddenly here in Ann Arbor,” Clark said. Additionally, the Lily Grace team is working to expand their reach from far beyond the area of Main Street to a much broader audience. The online presence that stores develop is becoming increasingly more important, especially to independents like Lily Grace whose interactions with bloggers and writers generally become a major mouthpiece for their business. Bloggers receive samples from various brands to review and share with their growing audiences, and blog activity is quickly becoming a salient form of market research for stores. Before stocking new brands and products in her store, Clark often checks the blogosphere to determine what people are saying about various products. As selective as certain companies can be with who
o9
stocks their products, Clark is equally as selective on her end, which means there is plenty of research to be done before a new brand hits the shelves at Lily Grace. The staff at Lily Grace is also working on social media to expand their online presence; UM senior Madeleine Mendelow is the team member at Lily Grace whose knowledge of popular beauty blogs has translated perfectly to her handling of the store’s social media accounts, including Lily Grace’s Instagram account that was started in the past year. “I think we’re really going to have fun moving forward with Instagram,” Clark said. “I’m still learning about that stuff, and I love it. It’s a very important part of the industry.” As Lily Grace continues to exceed the expectations of industry standards with an eye always looking to the future, their customers are consistently met with friendly professionals who are knowledgeable enough to recommend skincare and beauty products that will complement every customer they encounter. The personal rapports that Clark and her staff build with customers curate relationships that are profitable to both the supplier and the consumer, which is what makes Lily Grace such a successful endeavor. BY LAUREN GULDAN
THIS IS WHAT
HAPPY
LOOKS LIKE At Sky Zone, happy and healthy are the same thing. We are the world’s first indoor trampoline park, and the inventors of “fun fitness.” Open Jump • Ultimate Dodgeball • Birthday Parties • SkyRobics & More
HOURS OF OPERATION:
OPEN JUMP PRICING
Mon: CLOSED Tues: 4 -—8pm Wed: 4 -—8pm Thurs: 4 -—8pm
$10..................................30 MINS $14.................................60 MINS $18.................................90 MINS $22................................120 MINS
Fri: 4 -—10pm Sat: 10am -—10pm Sun: 10am -—8pm
SkySocks are required to jump.
FREE 30 MINUTE JUMP
Terms and conditions apply. Cannot be combined with other offers. Offer only valid at Sky Zone Canton. Offer expires 06/01/2015.
Reserve your jump time now at skyzone.com/Canton
Canton · www.SkyZone.com/Canton 42550 Executive Drive · Canton, MI 48188 · 734-981-0007 All jumpers are required to complete a liability waiver for the specific location they are visiting. Participants under 18 must have a waiver signed by their parent or legal guardian. The Sky Zone Indoor Trampoline Park playing courts are protected by U.S. Patent No. 5,624,112. Sky Zone location is an independently owned and operated franchise.
S e w & S o w : Organic Materials for a
Greener Future A
s the rural and industrial farming communities transition more towards organics in food production, this trend is also transferring over to the materials sewn into clothing. Concerns over health and safety in many burgeoning market procedures do not just apply to the things people put in their bodies; now more than ever, these concerns are beginning to apply to the things people are putting on their bodies. Much of this concern stems from worries surrounding the growing population and the need for sustainable farming practices that can support expanding populations. Starting more profoundly with the conception of the Green Revolution in the 1940s, the world began to adapt a higher level of consciousness of the problems that will arise if society continues with its current farming trends. There is not enough space to grow the amount of food that the world needs to feed the growing population, so methods are being developed to increase crop yields and cut down on dangers to the planet that are associated with current farming methods. Whether their crop of choice is organic cotton, hemp, or even bamboo, more and more clothing companies are using these revolutionary materials in their manufacturing processes in order to do their part in ensuring the safety of the planet. This move to sustainable cotton production is necessary with the growing world’s population and the subsequent growth of
11
necessary food production. It is clear that by growing more of these sustainable and organic materials, clothing producers can cut down on the harmful effects of pesticides on farmlands. With such a large volume of cotton being produced every year for clothing production, sustainable methods truly are a necessary shift for the future in order to keep the planet’s available growing space safe and usable for food and clothing production alike. The Organic Cotton Initiative works in accordance with farmers to encourage a drastic cut in the use of toxic pesticides. Through this initiative, farmers continue to sustain, and even increase, the production of cotton in order to keep up with demand. Problems persist within many farming communities as famers attempt to find non-genetically modified seeds to use in their production of cotton and other crops. Prices are increasingly high for these rare types of seeds, mainly due to their more difficult nature in relation to production. Some companies, however, have been able to secure the organic cotton that is currently available for the purpose of turning it into a marketable product. The question amongst shoppers and captains of industry persists: how the industry can take these safe and sustainable materials and convert them into stylish and affordable pieces of clothing that consumers across the spectrum of purchasing power will appreciate. BY BRIDGET COOK
MINA & OYLA Boasting a very high-fashion take on the sustainable market, Mina Yazdi & Oyla Dzilikhova have built a sustainable clothing market by creating remarkable denim jumpers and silk dresses. Their pieces are super chic and fit for the red carpet, but affordability is not their strength. The designers, Mina & Oyla, offer on their website that their clothes feature “Structured silhouettes with classic yet edgy elegance to the working woman with a downtown edge.� While the clothes are definitely beautiful, they are meant more for sustainable shoppers who also have a sustainable amounts of money in their wallets.
AMOUR VERT Amour Vert is a California-based brand committed to finding a balance between creating gorgeous clothes and helping the environment. These clothes are high fashion and expensive enough that they do not even list prices on their webpage. Boasting a very bohemian vibe, clothes by Amour Vert are able to channel the natural goals of the company into a look fit for Coachella artists, even though they are probably not readily available to the average consumer due to their higher price range. These clothes prove that natural materials can also be well-crafted enough for higher-end shoppers.
PEOPLE TREE Moving more towards the affordable side of the sustainable clothing spectrum, People Tree is a UK-based company that has brought about some new twists in affordable fashion. Safia Minney, founder and CEO of the company, claimed that the company aims to “Transform ethical fashion into something that is desirable and glamorous.� Their wide range of prices, from around $20-$150, means that there are products for any stylish shoppers looking to incorporate sustainable and organic pieces into their wardrobe.
BRAINTREE CLOTHING Originating in the 1990s, the Braintree group has been able to develop a line of affordable yet totally wearable and sustainable outfits. With a whole section reserved simply for socks (which clock in at around $5), these designers have made it possible for nearly everyone to get their hands on a piece of the sustainable fashion world. Their soft cotton fabrics and floral prints combine to build a comfy and cute vibe, and with the prices hovering around the $20-$50 mark, these clothes are definitely the best of both worlds.
SEASALT CORNWALL While many of the sustainable clothing companies have a very natural and organic design aesthetic to match their materials, Seasalt Cornwall takes on a slightly more nautical look. Their location on the coast of England serves as the perfect inspiration for their sea-salted looks, from sandals to scarves. Thanks to their affordable prices ($25-$150) and adorable dresses, this sustainable company certainly has something for everyone.
I N T O
T H E
WOODS
15
ALL THE BETTER Mara is wearing a knit tassle romper fringe and bead scarf, semi-percious stone brakelets, and a faceted quartz necklace all from from Verbena.
17
18
OLD GODS Mara is wearing a pleated skirt available at Verbena and boots by Steve Madden.
19
20
NOT ALL THOSE WHO WANDER Vintage rabbit fur coat, romper from Verbena, fur headband by Gap.
22
SUN SALUTATION Natalie is wearing a sheer blouse and loral shorts by Topshop 19
RED AS BLOOD Fur vest by BCBG, dress from Forever 21, boots from SHI.
BiteMe. FANGS ARE FINe
27
Shoot Director: Paige Comrey Stylist: Paige Comrey Photographer: Paige Comrey Model: Shelby Beattie
28
29 3
320 4
31
SHOW ME YOUR TEETH Shearling vest purchased from H&M
3226
FURR Faux leather pants purchased from H&M 33
34
SHIFT sits down to talk inspiration and motivation with Ann Arbor-based rapper Maher Hachem, aka Munch
munch music
PHOTOS BY RACHEL BEGLIN AND GWEN MCKEE
Empty Mug Records is an independent, student-run record label that aims to create a support network for local musicians and provide the means to distribute and promote creative works on the University of Michigan’s campus. Together with SHEI Magazine, EMR is looking to showcase exceptional local musicians and expose students the wide range of music talent available in their own backyard.
Click + Watch
Watch our live interview with Munch
M
Check out more music at: http://www.munch-music.com/
ost college students can feel a little aimless at times—after all, exactly how much is that Netflix binge contributing to future career success? Most days go by in the blink of an eye. The blur of homework, procrastination, and coffee runs helps maintain motivation every now and then, when students are barely able to look further than next week’s midterm. But some students have a dream, a concrete goal that drives them forward and keeps them focused on a bigger picture; bigger than the decision about whether or not to skip an 8 AM lecture. Let us introduce Exhibit A: Sophomore Maher Hachem, also known as the local rapper Munch. For the past six years of his life, Hachem has pursued a singular goal—to build a career in rap. A native of West Bloomfield, Michigan, he’d always been an avid listener of the genre, particularly of many older artists like Tupac and Biggie. “I was really attracted to music because of the influence that it has on culture and media,” Hachem explained, citing “the impact it has on people’s feelings” as a major point of interest. Music seemed like the perfect way to reach a large number of people and communicate a positive message. So Hachem began experimenting on his own and with a friend, rapping under the names “Crunch” and “Munch” (the name has stuck to this day, lasting longer than the duo itself). “I started recording in my house,” he recalled, which was where he first caught the attention of his cousin, who later took him to a recording studio in Windsor, Ontario. There, an acclaimed sound engineer, SugarShad, was impressed by young Hachem’s talent and has worked with him ever since. Hachem has continued recording and performing as Munch all throughout high school and college, releasing his first EP, The New Kid. He’s currently finishing up his album, Beaches, while working on a Computer Science degree. The album is low-key and relaxing, intended to de-stress college-age listeners in a world that’s often anything but calm and cool. “Anytime you just want to really relax, get your mind off things,” Hachem said, “you go for the beach.” This is exactly the vibe that Hachem himself brings across. He’s a charming combination of a focused, driven businessman with a laid-back, friendly musician, not to mention he rocks a sweet man bun. Hachem manages to balance his music career and school with grace, knowing that everything he’s
doing is working toward more music, more publicity, and more performances. “Being young and trying to get involved in the music industry is very difficult,” he claimed. “You need something—a hit, connections.” This means that to get ahead in one of the most competitive industries out there, a young artist needs to do everything within his power to not only create music, but to promote it incessantly. “My main goal is to at least everyday do something for my music,” Hachem said. “As long as I do something that will help me, I’m happy. Things aren’t gonna just happen overnight.” All of this hard work is paying off, both at Michigan and in the wider world of music. Last year he was flown out to Circle House Studios in Miami, where he worked with Grammy Award-winning producer DJ Blackout, the mastermind behind many Nicki Minaj hits and MIMS’ breakaway single “This Is Why I’m Hot.” “It was a great experience,” Hachem said with a nostalgic smile. “I learned a lot from it.” Performances have been piling up lately due to Hachem’s tireless promotion work, with shows at the Blind Pig and on the Diag itself. He’s previously performed at St. Andrew’s Hall in Detroit, a stage graced by many musical legends, including Detroit’s own rap legend Eminem. Being at Michigan has been an overwhelmingly positive experience for Hachem. College students’ tastes in music may be fickle, but they relate to his youthful vibes and the fun, relevant themes represented in Munch’s music. “Immediately they feel a vibe; it’s more relatable to them,” he said. As Hachem’s music gains popularity on campus and beyond, the reasons he started performing and recording in the first place continue to stay with him. “I like to make music for myself, for my own creative desire,” he explained. “I never force it.” Sometimes he goes long stretches without creating any new music, followed by bursts of productivity. Most of all, the thrill of live performances drives him forward as a constant motivation. “I really just want to be continuously doing shows,” he says. “I love performing, the energy of connecting with a crowd.” Hachem feeds off the energy of the crowds, inspired by his audience as well as favorite live performers. At the end of the day, he just wants his music to be enjoyed by as many people as possible. “If I can just change one person’s day, that’s why I’m doing this.” BY MERIN MCDEVITT
“My main goal is to at least everyday do something for my music... Things aren’t gonna just happen overnight.”
signal lost Shoot Director: Haley Fox Stylists: Aishawarya Singh, Anna He, Arianna Dixon, Tasha Lin Photographers: Allie Chase Model: Aaron Pelo 37
38
I’M SORRY, DAVE Vintage coat, button down from Brooks Brothers, pants by Zara.
39
34
3451
BRAVE NEW WORLD Cable knit sweater from J. Crew.
42
43
DISCONNECTED Green jacket by Zara, TV mask designed by Haley Fox
44
LEAVING A N N
A R B O R
FOR THE SUMMER?
SHEI STAY
UP
TO DATE
AT
MAGAZINE.COM