Low Country Love: Charleston
By Christiana Roussel | Photos Courtesy of Explore Charleston; Lowcountry Oyster Company; The Loutrel; The Mills House Hotel; and The Palmetto Hotel
Once the blistering, sweltering temps of summer have subsided, plan your perfect fall getaway to Charleston, South Carolina, where the low-country plough mud meets the buzzy, Southern charm of this old-world city. There is much to explore and enjoy.
where to stay
There is no shortage of great places to stay in Charleston—for long weekends or extended vacations. Bonus points to all who offer valet service or off-street parking, which is a premium in the “Holy City.”
Mills House—The well-appointed rooms are large and gracious and complemented by the property’s amenities including a rooftop pool with private cabanas (reserve in advance) and daily wellness classes on the private terrace. Dining options include The Black Door Café for coffee and grab-and-go shop featuring goods from local purveyors, as well as Iron Rose for a sophisticated dinner indoors or al fresco by the fountain.
Palmetto Hotel—Formerly known as The Saint Hotel, this boutique property has been fully remodeled and takes pride of place in the heart of it all on East Bay Street. From lobby, cozy bar and any of the 45 rooms, the soothing coastal palette is completely on point. Request a room with a Juliet Balcony to take in the balmier temps of fall.
Other properties we love: The Ryder Hotel (with its hip-andcool rooftop pool and open air bar—worth a pop-in, even if you aren’t staying here); Hotel Emeline (don’t miss brunch at Frannie & the Fox or knock out some emails alongside “laptopped” locals at Clerks Coffee Company); The Loutrel (still in the heart of everything you want to walk to but a bit quieter—high-ceilinged rooms with luxurious bedding may inspire you to hit the snooze button).
The Loutrel
The Palmetto Hotel
The Mills House Hotel
WHAT TO DO
Charleston is a walking city and best explored on foot. After you’ve left your keys with the hotel valet, be prepared to get in some steps. If you are interested in a guided walking tour of the city, contact Tommy Dew’s Walking Tour at tommydewswalktingtour@gmail.com. He can customize a tour to highlight your specific areas of interest. Once you get your bearings and want to explore more on your own, rent a golf cart from Island Rides (@IslandRidesSC) in downtown Charleston.
SHOPPING
King Street is an easy way to pass an afternoon where storied shops with local owners share the road with well-known national retailers. Croghan’s Jewel Box has been in the same location for more than 100 years, featuring new and antique jewelry. Bring home a vintage treasure from George C. Birlant Antiques. Grady Ervin & Co. will outfit the gentlemen in anything from coastal casual to field sport to tailored sportscoats.
Go see Suzette at Norton + Hodges at Charleston Place for African-inspired luxury accessories (think handbags crafted from sustainably-sourced crocodile or zebra and mink collar necklaces with ostrich-feather trim).
If you have little ones in tow, stop by The Tiny Tassel to pick up a copy of Dawn Burns’ “This is Charleston,” an illustrated introduction to the Holy City.
MUSEUMS
Celebrating and showcasing important works of art since 1905, the Gibbes Museum features a celebrated permanent collection alongside special exhibitions. Visit the website (or pop in) for the complete list of their classes and workshops.
The Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art on the campus of the College of Charleston allows visitors to connect with more modern day artists’ works. Indie movie screenings, lectures and meet-the-artist events are all worth setting aside time for.
WHAT LOCALS WANT YOU TO KNOW
• “Beach traffic is a real thing here. If you’re planning a day on Sullivans’s Island or Folly Beach, plan to leave Charleston early (8 a.m.) and to avoid return traffic, leave the beach by 3 p.m.”
• “King Street is great for shopping but not for walking-and-texting. The cobblestones are uneven and the sidewalk is narrow and can be crowded, so put your phone away and enjoy the views!”
• “Do not miss the grits at Miller’s All Day. Period.”
• “Try your hand (or eye) at mudlarking, the act of searching for bits of pottery or China lodged in the clay and sand of the area. The tides continue to wash ashore these small pieces of treasure from the past. There is a stretch of sandy walkway along the Battery where early 19th-century residents discarded their trash. You can still find shards of Mocha ware, blue-and-white China or terracotta tile remnants.”
• “Queen Street Grocery is the corner store of your dreams.”
“This is Charleston” by Dawn Burns
Folly Beach
CONNECT WITH HISTORY
Middleton Place—Whether you schedule a tour with a docent or explore in a self-guided fashion, history buffs will love discovering this storied plantation once owned by a signor of the Declaration of Independence, Arthur Middleton.
With a commanding view of the Charleston Harbor, the Edmonton-Alston House is one of the oldest along the High Battery. It has survived numerous hurricanes; the earthquake of 1886; and the Civil War. Schedule a visit when they offer their Wine on the Piazza events to get the full experience.
Book a boat tour to Fort Sumter, where you’ll cruise in to explore this Civil War landmark, now part of the National Park system.
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
Take the short drive over the Ravenel Bridge to Mount Pleasant and explore this nearby gem of a town. Take a guided kayak tour of Shem’s Creek with Nature Adventures. If you want new fishing gear, pop in to Rivers & Glen Trading Co. for the best in the business.
Go a little farther to Folly Beach to get some sand between your toes with an afternoon spent walking the shoreline (keep an eye out for sharks’ teeth that sometimes wash ashore). Book a “Farm Tour” with Lowcountry Oyster Company to learn the importance of this coastal habitat that provides those briny bites we adore. Small groups of 10 (or book a private tour) on their 20’ Carolina Skiff are the way to go.
Want more? Stop by Goat Sheep Cow for all your provisions before setting out with Cruisin’ Tikis Charleston, where a captain guides your floating tiki hut through the Charleston Harbor. If you are familiar with cookware from Charleston-based Smithey Iron Ware, make the stop to the business’s showroom to load up and save on shipping.
Charleston Waters
Middleton Place
Lowcountry Oyster Company
WHERE TO EAT
In the dining-out department, Charleston gives Birmingham a run for its money with the quantity and caliber of places to fill your belly. Regular visitors will tell you not to miss Peninsula Grill, FIG, Hall’s Chophouse (that bar scene) or The Ordinary (that seafood tower), and they’re not wrong. It would be a shame to miss out places such as The Darling Oyster Bar, Ma’am Saab or Raw 167 (if there is a wait, go around the corner to grab a drink at their Bar 167 and order the caviar cone). Locals and visitors alike love Vern’s, so reservations can be hard to come by. Once you have your travel dates locked in, get on the Resy app to book your spot (if none are available, set an alert to be notified if something opens up). After dinner there, walk the few blocks for a nightcap at Elliotborough Mini Bar. Speaking of watering holes, don’t miss Little Jack’s Tavern, which is right around the corner from Leon’s Oyster Shop and Melfi’s.
While we’re talking Italian food, make time for the amazing sandwiches that Chef Anthony Marini is turning out at The Pass; he brings a trained chef’s skillset to the midday meal. Sorelle is an excellent choice for any time of day—pop in for a coffee and pastry in the morning, and grab something from their Sorelle’s ‘mercato’ to go. Come back later for dinner of ‘cicciones’ and branzino.
Other not-to-be-missed choices include Park & Grove, where bartender Amelia crafts some amazing cocktails with local ingredients; Chez Nous for pure French; and Bin 152 for wine and cheese.
If your plans take you to Sullivan’s Island, don’t miss Sullivan’s, Obstinate Daughter or High Thyme.
Peninsula Grill
The Darling Oyster Bar
Peninsula Grill
The Pass