SKINDEEP by Shennaye

SKINDEEP

SK N D

CONTENTS

10. 14. 18.

INK UP MY HISTORY MATTHEW JAMES WALLESHA TAURANGA

20.

MEET THE LOCALS

23.

KHUSBU PATEL

26.

BAGS OF CULTURE

34.

TIMES OF CHANGE

TATT OOS HAVE A P O WE R AND M AG I C A L L O N THE IR O WN . TH E Y DE COR ATE THE BO DY B UT THE Y A L S O E NHANC E THE S O UL .

WITHIN MANY TALES YOU CAN BECOME THE STORYTELLER 9

INK UP MY

HISTORY

he word tattoo comes from the Tahitian “tatu” which means “to mark something.”

It is arguably claimed that tattooing has existed since 12,000 years BC. The purpose of tattooing has varies from culture to culture and its place on the time line. But there are commonalties that prevail form the earliest known tattoos to those being done on college students on Telegraph Ave. in Berkeley. Tattoos have always had an important role in ritual and tradition. In Borneo, women tattooed their symbols on their forearm indicating their particular skill. If a woman wore a symbol indicating she was a skilled weaver, her status as prime marriageable material was increased. Tattoos around the wrist and fingers were believed to ward away illness. Throughout history tattoos have signified membership in a clan or society. Even today groups like the Hells Angels tattoo their particular group symbol. TV and movies have used the idea of a tattoo indication membership in a secret society numerous times. It has been believed that the wearer of an image calls the spirit of that image. The ferocity of a tiger would belong to the tattooed person. That tradition holds true today shown by the proliferation of images of tigers, snakes, and bird of prey.

In recorded history, the earliest tattoos can be found in Egypt during the time of the construction of the great pyramids (It undoubtedly started much earlier). When the Egyptians expanded their empire, the art of tattooing spread as well. The civilizations of Crete, Greece, Persia, and Arabia picked up and expanded the art form. Around 2000 BC tattooing spread to China. The Greeks used tattooing for communication among spies. Markings identified the spies and showed their rank. Romans marked criminals and slaves. This practice is still carried on today. The Ainu people of western Asia used tattooing to show social status. Girls coming of age were marked to announce their place in society, as were the married women. The Ainu are noted for introducing tattoos to Japan where it developed into a religious and ceremonial rite. In Borneo, women were the tattooists. It was a cultural tradition. They produced designs indicating the owners station in life and the tribe he belonged to. Kayan women had delicate arm tattoos which looked like lacy gloves. Dayak warriors who had “taken a head” had tattoos on their hands.

The tattoos garnered respect and assured the owners status for life. Polynesians developed tattoos to mark tribal communities, families, and rank. They brought their art to New Zealand and developed a facial style of tattooing called Moko which is still being used today. There is evidence that the Mayan, Incas, and Aztecs used tattooing in the rituals. Even the isolated tribes in Alaska practiced tattooing, their style indicating it was learned from the Ainu. In the west, early Britons used tattoos in ceremonies. The Danes, Norse, and Saxons tattooed family crests (a tradition still practiced today). In 787 AD, Pope Hadrian banned tattooing. It still thrived in Britain until the Norman Invasion of 1066. The Normans disdained tattooing. It disappeared from Western culture from the 12th to the 16th centuries.

While tattooing diminished in the west, it thrived in Japan. At first, tattoos were used to mark criminals. First offenses were marked with a line across the forehead. A second crime was marked by adding an arch. A third offense was marked by another line. Together these marks formed the Japanese character for “dog”. It appears this was the original “Three strikes your out” law. In time, the Japanese escalated the tattoo to an aesthetic art form. The Japanese body suit originated around 1700 as a reaction to strict laws concerning conspicuous consumption. Only royalty were allowed to wear ornate clothing. As a result of this, the middle class adorned themselves with elaborate full body tattoos. A highly tattooed person wearing only a loin cloth was considered well dressed, but only in the privacy of their own home.

the South Seas. In 1691 he brought to London a heavily tattooed Polynesian named Prince Giolo, Known as the Painted Prince. He was put on exhibition , a money making attraction, and became the rage of London. It had been 600 years since tattoos had been seen in Europe and it would be another 100 years before tattooing would make it mark in the West.

He was a sensation in London. Soon, the upper- class were getting small tattoos in discreet places. For a short time tattooing became a fad. What kept tattooing from becoming more widespread was its slow and painstaking procedure. Each puncture of the skin was done by hand the ink was applied. In 1891, Samuel O’Rtiely

In the late 1700s, Captain Cook made several trips to the South Pacific. The people of London welcomed his stories and were anxious to see the art and artifacts he brought back. Returning form one of this trips, he brought a heavily tattooed Polynesian named Omai.

William Dampher is responsible for re-introducing tattooing to the west. He was a sailor and explorer who traveled

patented the first electric tattooing machine. It was based on Edison’s electric pen which punctured paper with a needle point. The basic design with moving coils, a tube and a needle bar, are the components of today’s tattoo gun. The electric tattoo machine allowed anyone to obtain a reasonably priced, and readily available tattoo. As the average person could easily get a tattoo, the upper classes turned away from it. By the turn of the century, tattooing had lost a great deal of credibility. Tattooists worked the sleazier sections of town. Heavily tattooed people traveled with circuses and “freak Shows.” Betty Brodbent traveled with Ringling Brothers Circus in the 1930s and was a star attraction for years. The cultural view of tattooing was so poor for most of the century that tattooing went underground. Few were accepted into the secret society of artists and there were no schools to study the 12

craft. There were no magazines or associations. Tattoo suppliers rarely advertised their products. One had to learn through the scuttlebutt where to go and who to see for quality tattoos. The birthplace of the American style tattoo was Chatham Square in New York City. At the turn of the century it was a seaport and entertainment center attracting working-class people with money. Samuel O’Riely cam from Boston and set up shop there. He took on an apprentice named Charlie Wagner. After O’Reily’s death in 1908, Wagner opened a supply business with Lew Alberts. Alberts had trained as a wallpaper designer and he transferred those skills to the design of tattoos. He is noted for redesigning a large portion of early tattoo flash art. While tattooing was declining in popularity across the country, in Chatham Square in flourished. Husbands tattooed their wives with

examples of their best work. They played the role of walking advertisements for their husbands’ work. At this time, cosmetic tattooing became popular, blush for cheeks, coloured lips, and eyeliner. With world war I, the flash art images changed to those of bravery and wartime icons. In the 1920s, with prohibition and then the depression, Chathma Square lost its appeal. The center for tattoo art moved to Coney Island. Across the country, tattooists opened shops in areas that would support them, namely cities with military bases close by, particularly naval bases.

Tattoos were known as travel markers. You could tell where a person had been by their tattoos. After world war II, tattoos became further denigrated by their associations with Marlon Brando

type bikers and Juvenile delinquents. Tattooing had little respect in American culture. Then, in 1961 there was an outbreak of hepatitis and tattooing was sent reeling on its heels. Though most tattoo shops had sterilization machines, few used them. Newspapers reported stories of blood poisoning, hepatitis, and other diseases. The general population held tattoo parlors in disrepute. At first, the New York City government gave the tattoos an opportunity to form an association and self- regulate, but tattooists are independent and they were not able to organize themselves. A health

code violation went into effect and the tattoo shops at Times Square and Coney Island were shut down. For a time, it was difficult to get a tattoo in New York. It was illegal and tattoos had a terrible reputation. Few people wanted a tattoo. The better shops moved to Philadelphia and New Jersey where it was still legal. In the late 1960s, the attitude towards tattooing changed. Much credit can be given to Lyle Tuttle. He is a handsome, charming, interesting and knows how to use the media. He tattooed celebrities, particularly women. Magazines and television went to Lyle to get information about this ancient art form.

Toady, tattooing is making a strong comeback. It is more popular and accepted than it has ever been. All classes of people seek the best tattoo artists. This rise in popularity has placed tattoists in the category of â&#x20AC;&#x153;fine artistâ&#x20AC;?. The tattooist has garnered a respect not seen for over 100 years. Current artists combine the tradition of tattooing with their personal style creating unique and phenomenal body art. With the addition of new inks, tattooing has certainly reached a new plateau.

MATTHEW J A M E S - Take Life as an endless road, cause you never know when it’s gonna end. -

Describe your tattoos I have a forearm sleeve on my left arm which consists of smoke, 2 masks designed as clown faces one is a happy emotion and the other is a sad emotion and a joker type demon with horns. I also have a rose on my hand and a diamond on top of that rose.

What is the meaning behind your tattoos? So the smoke takes up most of my arm as it spreads around but represents my thoughts when i was in a bad place and time in my life. I wasn’t seeing things clearly and was just a heavy feeling i always had on my mind. It also shows a reminder of how much more clear things are now and that the smoke is now going away. The 2 masks are in the form of the icon that represents “Drama” or Preforming arts, with the 2 emotions, sad and happy. However, they are in the form of clown faces and a bit more scary looking. I got them because they represent the time that i was going off the rails, and started getting to the late teens, and thought it was cool to get because i was out the gate haha. The Joker Demon thing represents my dark and heavy thoughts I used to have. The main reason I got it was because a close childhood mate of mine had passed away 14

and he had the exact same tattoo so its like a part of him that I get to carry around on my skin with me everyday. The rose that is on my hand I just got cause i liked it haha a gap filler as they say…nah for me it is a sign of love, peace and tranquility that I had found in myself after all these dark times. With the diamond on top, it is kind of representing me, myself and I as I have been through rough time times but have shined through them and yeah so a diamond has best represented that for me, like the famous saying “You’re a diamond in the rough” kinda thing was what I was going for.

What are your views on having or getting tattoos? I personally think which others may think as well but i think its a form of expressionism, and a way of showing experiences through life. Its also is a way of showing your culture and sub culture which I can embrace and people should to. I don’t get why people discriminate against them as it’s not your skin to judge. If you want to get a tattoo then go ahead, if not thats cool, but someone shouldn’t be judged for having or getting a tattoo, everyone has their reasons to, you don’t have to like them but just accept them and it’ll be sweet.

“Good tattoos aren’t cheap & cheap tattoos aren’t good” 17

WALLESHA TAURANGA Describe your tattoos. In the order I got them: eye of Horus, ankh, manaia, koi and lotus flowers and waves, and a severed geisha head and a Japanese dagger and a snake.

The reason why you got them/the meaning behind your tattoos? I have loved tattoos for as long as I can remember and this love was inspired by my mother. When I was 10 years old she got her first tattoo (a Native American Indian inspired feather) and with that she gained this new found sense of confidence and freedom. This was a concept that I couldn’t fully grasp until I got tattooed.

I was 18 when I got my first tattoos (Mum paid for the first one). I love Ancient Egypt so I chose the eye of Horus (symbol of the Moon, healing and protection) and the ankh (the symbol of everlasting life) for my first and second tattoos. I always joked that these symbols would make me live forever and I’d never get sick haha. The next tattoo I got was my manaia (a guardian in Maori mythology). It isn’t taa moko, but that doesn’t make it any less culturally meaningful. It represents my mother, my brothers and myself. I got it done in two parts – with both halves facing away from each other as a way of showing how we have each other’s backs as a family - enforcing the guardian role of the manaia and my whanau. My koi and lotus flowers is the biggest tattoo I have,

and also has the biggest meaning. Koi fish are a symbol of strength and determination (in legends they swim against the current and are strong enough to launch themselves up waterfalls). Lotus flowers grow in the mud in darkness and emerge from the water to bloom into beautiful flowers. The waves/water is the common element between the koi and the lotus, and ties the overall design together. The closed lotus flower is a symbol of who I was, the koi fish is who I am, and the open flower is where I want to be. So it’s a progression of my growth as a person. At school I was bullied, and I always wanted a tattoo to represent that ugly part of my life to serve as a beautiful reminder of how far I’ve come. After all, I wouldn’t be the person I am today without those people. Thanks, dickheads. Geisha are walking works of art and are the ultimate symbol of beauty, grace and elegance. My severed geisha head tattoo represents the be auty of mortality, with the snake and dagger representing death. These elements symbolise how nothing lasts forever, and I love the contrast of these and their representation of balance (good and

bad delicate and rough). It’s a reminder for me to make the most of life and opportunities while I have them. Plus, it looks badass as fuck and I love it.

What do you think about tattoos (expression, heritage etc)? I love tattoos. I have many plans and ideas that I want to get, it’s just a case of time and money. Tattoos are the coolest and most permanent way to express and decorate yourself. Tattoos can inspire so many feelings. They can offer closure, give you confidence, make you feel regret, serve as reminders, show your heritage and where you’re from, but most importantly they don’t define who you are as a person, they define your individuality.

MEET THE

LOCALS URBAN INK STUDIO PHONE: 0800 INK YOU ADDRESS: 239e Kahikatea Drive, Hamilton

E M A I L : enquiries@urbanink.co.nz

F L A X R O O T S T AT T O O STUDIO PHONE:07-839 2036 ADDRESS: 5 Collingwood St, Hamilton 3204

E M A I L : f l a x ro o t st at t o o @ g m a i l . co m 20

S K I N K S T AT T O O S T U D I O PHONE: 07-854 9616 ADDRESS: 1158 River Rd, F l a g s t a ff , H a m i l t o n 3 2 1 0

E M A I L : skinkstattoos@gmail.com

PHONE: 07-855 5868 ADDRESS: 797 Heaphy Terrace,Claudlands, Hamilton

EMAIL:

ola@goodhonesttattoos.co.nz

PHONE: 07 282 1914 ADDRESS: 1381 Victoria St, Whitiora, Hamilton 3200

E M A I L : shop.futureimagestudio@gmail.com

KHUSBU P A T E L Describe all your tattoos: My first tattoo is a black line mandala that I designed myself on my thigh. It’s a little bigger than the palm of my hand. The lines are a little uneven, and the design itself is simple compared to what I could design now but it still makes me smile every time I see it. Hell, it’s my first tattoo. The second tattoo I got was a rose with beaded accents, all in black line, on the left of my ribcage. It’s about the size of my hand. To be honest, as much as I love it, I forget I even have it there half the time. My third tattoo is a cute little piece I got with my mother. It’s an outline of India that sits nicely on my left wrist. There is a little red dot on the left of it to mark where my family came from. My last tattoo, for now, is a mandala with a flower that I got with one of my best friends. The pattern is based on both Asian, and Maori and Pacifica designs to suit both of our respective cultures. Just like the tattoos, we both have our country’s national flowers in the centre of our tattoos, hers being a frangipani and mine an open lotus flower.

What do each of them mean? What is your reason for getting them? My first tattoo was one I was very excited about. I was also fucking terrified but my stubbornness pushed me right through that. I wanted something of my own. I went with a mandala because it’ll always be beautiful, and the more I add, the more I can see myself improve. You may wanna grab a bag of pretzels, sit back and relax, cause there is quite a story to this tattoo. First of all, I live in Raglan. I was about 16 and fell in love with a rose tattoo design I saw online. Fast forward to 2014, I was at a tattoo convention in Hamilton with mum and found the design I had been looking for, the beaded rose, designed by Lara Higgs of Left Hand Path Tattoos Christchurch. Freakin Christchurch. So, if I wanted it, it had to be sometime within the next couple of hours. Too

bad she was with a client and wouldn’t be done by then. Oh well, no big deal, I’ll get it when I get it. A few days later, I was chillin at work with some mates and happened to see our local tattoo artists with some mates, one of which was Lara freakin Higgs. And to my surprise, she offered to do the tattoo I wanted the next day. It came out beautifully and was probably the easiest one to deal with during the healing process. My little India tattoo is very special to me. Not only does it signify where my family came from but it’s also one that I had done alongside my mother. Having it on my wrist and seeing it every day is a sweet little reminder of my family and culture. It’s pretty sweet having a map on me all the time in case someone asks where I’m from. My latest tattoo represents so much more than a friendship. In late 2015, one of my closest friends, was involved in a car accident that changed the course of her life completely. She was working a great job, meeting people and getting herself out there, something she had never done before. At the same time, I had just started studying and figuring out what I wanted to do with my life. Once she had started to heal and was back home, we spent a lot more time together, reminiscing on the past few years, and planning for the future. To us, this tattoo was a way to stay connected to our roots, to each other, and is also a reminder to keep moving forward.

What are your views on getting/having tattoos? Tattoos are a great way to express yourself and showcase someone’s talent at the same time. I personally use tattoos as a way of expressing myself and my loved ones, more for myself than everyone around me. I think it’s great to keep little, or not so little reminders of my life and experiences on me where I can see it whenever I like, and I feel that anyone should feel comfortable doing so too.

BAGS OF CULTURE What is Maori tattoo art?

How did Maori tattoo art become popular?

The Maori are indigenous people that originated in New Zealand. They have a form of body art, known as moko but more commonly referred to as Maori tattooing. The art form was brought to the Maori from Polynesia and is considered highly sacred.

The art of Maori tattoo was brought to New Zealand by the people of Eastern Polynesia in 1769 Captain James Cook. The word tattow itself was pegged as Cookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s adaptation of the native Tahitian word tautau. Captain Cook and Joseph Banks first saw the intricate tattoos of Maori tribesmen during their voyage to the South Pacific, and became fascinated and intrigued by it.

Since the Maori people consider the head to be the most sacred part of the body, the most popular kind of Maori tattoo was the facial tattoo, which was composed of curved shapes and spiral like patterns. Often this tattoo covered the whole face and was a symbol of rank, social status, power and prestige. For Maori, tattooing was (and for some, still is) a rite of passage, which meant it was highly revered and ritualised. The tattooing would begin usually during adolescence. The great thing about Maori tattoos is that to this day, no two tattoos are alike. Maori tattoos are one of a kind. They are always highly intricate and detailed and display the craftsmanship and artistry of not only the artist but of the Maori culture. The Maori tattoo artist is called the tohunga ta moko which means moko specialist. These tattooists are highly respected, and considered tapu which means inviolable or holy. Tohunga ta moko were mostly men, but there are a few women who take up the practice.

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European explorers in New Zealand were very interested in the art of Maori tattooing and culture. Often Maori would take the tattooed heads of their enemies as trophies during war and kept them in ornate boxes as symbols of power, conquest and protections. Because Europeans made regular contact with Maori tribes, a group of missionaries later decided to study Maori and try to convert them to the ideals of Christianity. In 1814, taking with them a chief by the name of Hongi, the Europeans sailed back to England. While Hongi was there he worked with an Oxford University professor to write a bilingual dictionary and translate the Bible into Maori language. He was granted an audience with King George IV and was presented with trunk loads of gifts as a reward for his evangelical efforts. Hongi exchanged his gifts for a number of muskets and an ample supply of ammunition on the way home, in Sydney. Upon his return to New Zealand, he used the weapons to launch a series of raids against enemy tribes. The Maori

later discovered that Europeans would actually trade tattooed Maori heads for weapons. Soon, the Maori people would actually raid neighbouring tribes for the sole purpose of obtaining tattooed heads, which could be traded for guns and more ammunition. The traders then sold the heads to museums and private collectors in areas of Europe. Desperate to obtain as many weapons as possible, the Maori would behead slaves and commoners who were captured in battle and tattoo their heads post mortem. Often, even heads of poor quality or those with unfinished tattoos were still offered for sale. One of the most noted collectors of tattooed heads was Major General Horatio Robley, who in his lifetime acquired some 35 tattooed heads. Today, 30 out of the 35 heads in his collection can be found in the Natural History Museum of New York. Major General Robley also published a book; entitled Moko which gave extensive details on the process and meaning of Maori tattoo designs.

Maori tattoo is very complex Maori tattoo traditionally does not involve the use of needles; rather the Maori used knives and chisels made from shark teeth, sharpened bone or sharp stones. The chisel, also called the uhi, was made from albatross bon although some were said to be made of iron. Knives and chisels were either plain and smooth or serrated, and these were used interchangeably depending on the intended pattern or design in the skin. The inks that were used by Maori were made from all natural products. Burnt wood was used to create black pigments; while lighter pigments were derived from caterpillars infected with a certain type of fungus, or from burnt kauri gum mixed with animal fat. The pigments were then stored in ornate containers called oko, which became family heirlooms. Oko were often buried when not in use. The black pigment that was made from burnt wood was reserved solely for facial tattoos; while those made from bugs or burnt gum was used for outlines and other less revered tattoos. Before the beginning the tohunga ta moko would study the persons facial structure to decide on the most appealing design. As mentioned before, no two Maori tattoos are alike.

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Maori tattoo can be very painful Having a Maori tattoo applied was a very painful experience. First deep cuts were incised into the skin and then the chisel was dipped into the pigment and tapped into the cuts. Another variation on this process involved dipping the chisel into the jar of pigment and inserting it into the skin by striking the end with a mallet. This manner of tattooing leaves the skin with grooves after healing, instead of the usual smooth surface left after needlepoint tattoos. Maori tattoo was once a long and labour intensive process, because it was very painful only a few parts of the body were tattooed at a time to allow healing. There are two designs for the Maori tattoos â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the normal design only involved the blackening of the lines whilst the second called for blackening the background and leaving the lines clear â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this was called puhoro.

Maori tattoo is very sacred Due to the sacred nature of the Maori tattoo, those who were undergoing the process, and those involved in the process, could not eat with their hands or talk to anyone aside from the other people being tattooed. Those who were receiving tattoos made it a point to not cry out in pain, because to do so was a sign of weakness. Being able to withstand the pain was very important in terms of pride for Maori people. There were other rules and regulations around being tattooed, particularly while undergoing a facial work. Many Maori had to abstain from sexual intimacy while undergoing the rite, and had to avoid all solid foods. In order to meet these requirements, the person was fed from a wooden funnel to prevent foodstuffs from contaminating the swollen skin. A person would be fed in this manner until the facial wounds had fully healed. Because the face was often bleeding and very swollen, the leaves of the karaka tree were often used as a balm that was applied after the session had finished, to hasten the healing process. The tattooing was often accompanied by music, singing and chanting to help soothe the pain.

The main focus Archaic Maori Facial TattooThe focal point of Maori tattooing was generally the face. Men had full facial tattoos, while women only had their chin, lips and nostrils tattooed. Some Maori also had other parts of the body tattooed, such as their back, buttocks and legs. Women were more often known to tattoo their arms, neck and thighs.

Maori tattoo and social status Only people of rank or status were allowed to have, and could afford to have, tattoos. A person who did not have any high-ranking social status, such as a slave, could not have a face tattoo. Those who had the means to get a tattoo but did not were seen as people of lower social status. The Maori facial tattoo was not only seen as a sign of rank though, but was also used as a kind of identification card. For men, their face tattoo showed their accomplishments, status, position, ancestry and marital status. It is considered highly insulting to be unable to recognise a person’s power and position by his moko. The male facial moko or tattoo is generally divided into eight sections of the face: The centre of the forehead called the ngakaipikirau, designated a person’s general rank. The area under the brows, called ngunga, designated his position. The area around his eyes and nose, uirere, designated his hapu, or sub-tribe rank. The area around the temples, uma, served to detail his marital status, like the number of marriages he had. The area under the nose, raurau, displayed the man’s signature that was once memorised by tribal chiefs who used it when buying property, signing deeds and officiating orders. The cheek area, or taiohou, showed the nature of the person’s work. The chin area, wairua, showed the person’s mana or prestige. Lastly, the jaw area or taitoto designated a person’s

birth status. It can also be noted that a person’s ancestry is indicated on each side of the face. The left side is generally the father’s side and the right side the mother’s. Noble or note-worthy descent was a primary requirement before a moko was undertaken. If one side of a person’s ancestry was not of rank, the corresponding side of the face would not have any design tattooed on it. And if the person undertaking the moko has no rank, or is not heir to anything of note then the centre of the forehead would be left without design.

Maori tattoo as art By the mid 19th century, full facial moko for men declined in terms of frequency, but for women they persisted throughout the 20th century. Since the 1990s, Maori tattooing has experienced resurgence, often being done with the use of modern machines. Since tribal-patterns of tattoo grew in popularity in the late 1990s, early 2000s, more and more non-Maori are copying designs and incorporating in their own art. Since then, more traditional Maori art has made a comeback and people are inserting their own meanings and themes into the more traditional art work. Most of these modern Maori tattoos use needle-based machines, rather than the traditional tools and methods mentioned above.

Maori tattooing and tradition lives on The Maori people have revived the old methods of tattooing in an effort to preserve their cultural heritage. Both men and women have now become involved in the traditional practice. The art organisation known as Te Uhi a Mataora was recently established by traditional Maori practitioners. Te Uhi a Mataora envision the retention and further development of ta moko as a living art form. Their main concern is the growing practice of ta moko by non-Maori people. They strive to propagate the art form by reviving old traditions and preserving old methods and designs. They also inform others that Maori tattooing is a cultural symbol, and should not be taken lightly. If you are a non-Maori who admires Maori artwork and tattooing and wants to have one done it is advisable to seek 2299

out a Maori tattoo artist with sufficient knowledge of ta moko. We have extensively experienced Maori artists here at Zealand Tattoo who are able to design you a custom, yet traditional, Maori design that is respectful and in honour of traditional Maori.

Common Maori designs Koru (spiral): The koru depicts new beginnings, growth and harmony, taken from the symbolism of an unfurled fern leaf. New Zealand has some of the most beautiful ferns in the world. Hei matau (fish hook): The Maori symbols or meaning or hei matau, more commonly known as the fish hook symbolises prosperity. Maori use fish in many of their traditional food dishes. Fish were so plentiful to the Maori that the simple ownership of a fish hook meant prosperity. The fish hook also represents strength, determination and good health, as well as providing safe journey over water.

Single twist: The Maori symbols or meaning for the single twist represents the path of life, it is the symbol of eternity. The single figure eight is different than the double and triple twists mentioned below. Double or triple twist: These twists represent the joining together of two people, or two cultures for eternity and even though they may experience lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s up and downs they remain bonded by friendship and loyalty for life (a favourite of the Maori symbols). Manaia: The manaia is known as a spiritual guardian, and carrier of supernatural powers. Traditionally depicted as a bird like figure with the head of a bird, body of a man and the tail of a fish it acts as a provider and protector over the sky, earth and sea. Likened to a bird sitting on your shoulder, looking after ones spirit, and guiding the spirit where it is supposed to go when the time comes. Hei tiki:

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Commonly known as a good luck charm the tiki is also considered a symbol of fertility. Assumed to be clear thinking, perceptive, loyal and knowledgeable, the wearers strength is their character. The tiki is a talisman to the Maori people, and has been regarded as a good luck charm from the ancient times. The Maori believe the tiki represents the unborn human embryo. The most valuable tikiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s were carved from greenstone and were handed down through generations and treasured possessions.

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TIMES OF CHANGE T

raumatic, amateur, professional, identification, cosmetic and functional have one thing in common. They are all types of tattoos. While it is understandable that tattoos will always be susceptible to judgment, times are changing. In recent years tattoos have become more common and acceptable in society and the workplace. This can be attributed to the significant improvement regarding the health and safety issues associated with tattooing and the increase of experienced and professional tattoo artists. Often, people fail to see tattoos as art and will merely view them as an indication that a person is rebellious, a gang affiliated criminal, or has perhaps made some poor life choices. Tattoos have become more common across different ages, genders and social standings. According to Statistics Brain Research Institute findings, 40 percent of American adults between the ages of 26 and 40 have tattoos and 14 percent of Americans of all ages have at least one tattoo. Professionals, businessmen, trades people and grandmothers are members of the tattooed community. Jones discussed the variety in the range of people getting tattoos, “you never know who is going to walk through the door next. The oldest person I had tattooed before this was 80, now 82 is my record”. Certain tattoo styles and designs that have emerged in recent years have contributed to the ever-growing popularity of tattoos. Watercolour style (based off watercolour artwork), mandala (geometric and natural patterns and shapes in the form of a circle) and dot work tattoos (tattoos created with various sized dots, no solid lines) have become fashionable causing an increase in their demand and therefore, an increase in artists specialising in these individual styles. Small tattoos, whether they are a single word or a simple symbol, have also become popular 34

among teenage girls and women. Tattoos have stamped their mark of permanence in society today and the same can be said for the high standards of hygiene adhered to by professional tattoo artists. Tattooing has come a long way in terms of hygiene, application and design techniques. “Contrary to popular belief, tattoo parlours are shining examples of cleanliness”. In Auckland, New Zealand, tattoo studios require a health protection license and must comply with standards. Tattooing: Code of Practice Summary states that wearing gloves, ensuring surfaces and equipment are clean and sanitary and using single use needles is the minimum operating requirements all licensed studios must abide to. As the name states, single-use needles are intended to be used once, then disposed of. All non-disposable equipment should be sterilized in an autoclave as stated by Rubino. “Stainless steel tattoo tubes get cleaned in an Ultrasonic cleaner and then sterilized in an autoclave”. During the tattoo process these needles are changed to suit each stage of a tattoo, exactly the way a painter would change brushes to create each desired effect. The electric tattoo machines that are used today are far safer and more hygienic compared to the traditional techniques, which involve pricking and piercing the skin with bone or shell needles, dipped in ink. With a machine, higher quality results can be obtained in a shorter amount of time. The artist is in control of the speed and depth the needle moves, which decreases the amount of trauma to the skin. The improvement of tattoo equipment and hygiene standards has therefore seen a dramatic increase in the establishment of professional tattoo studios. As cleanliness and tattoo techniques have improved, so have employer views of tattoos in the workplace. The opinions of employers in the workforce today have seen a shift in regards to their views on hiring people with

tattoos. It may be a few decades before a fully tattooed Prime Minister is elected, but it is evident that the times have certainly changed, and for the better. Employers are more tolerant of employing people with tattoos, and this can be witnessed at your local supermarket or retail outlets. The workforce consists of people from different backgrounds, across different age groups and culture, which collaborate to achieve a common goal. Employers are more aware and sensitive towards the individual cultures, beliefs of their employees and this includes being informed of the cultural significance and meanings behind the tattoos their employees wear. In indigenous cultures, tattoos are a representation of genealogy, history, and status and are worn with pride. Morrison stated, “We have no formal policy about tattoos because we value our differences and recognize that diversity and inclusion are good for our business and makes our company stronger”. Employers have begun to acknowledge that a book cannot be judged by its cover, “I think that once I begin to speak, and I begin to communicate with people, they understand that I am more than just tattoos”. With employers becoming more accepting of their tattooed employees, this is a small step in terms of shrugging off the negative stereotype that every tattooed individual will encounter at one point in time. Tattoos are a permanent form of art and they have proven that they are not going anywhere, anytime soon. There are no set rules that enforce the maximum age eligibility a person needs to meet if they wish to get tattooed. There is also no such rule that states only the

undesirable thugs and outcasts are permitted to have tattoos. Times have changed, and as tattoo application and technique have improved, new styles of tattoo design have emerged. Watercolour, mandala and dot work styles have grown in popularity, and the amount of talented artists who specialize in these styles has increased to meet the demand. Change is good and modern times call for modern technology and techniques. The professional tattoo industry today has seen drastic improvement in the production of quality tattoo machines and equipment. With new needle configurations and sterilization equipment, the hygiene standards of professional tattoo establishments have been significantly elevated. With better equipment come better results and this is evident with the incredible body art that adorns the skin of the modern tattoo community. In recent years there has been a change in attitude towards employing people with tattoos. Employers recognize that employees hold different cultural beliefs and that, their tattoos reflect not only their individual personalities, but also their heritage. Differences and diversity is valued in the workplace today, and while it may be some time before someone covered from head to toe in tattoos is running the country, there is always hope. There will always be individuals whose minds are already made up about tattoos and this cannot be changed, and they cannot be reasoned with. However, the simple fact remains, that tattoos are forever, and they have become more acceptable in modern society.

- WALLESHA TAURANGA 35