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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

As Milwaukee Changes

ilwaukee has seen many changes since 1982 when the Shepherd Express, Milwaukee’s weekly newspaper and daily website, debuted. At that time, our city was in decline by many measures as the oncethriving “Machine Shop of the World” was sinking into the Rust Belt, and the “City That Means Beer” was losing its breweries. The city’s uplift began with a change of leadership in local government, but was (and continues to be) supported by local enterprise—by the individuals, businesses and community organizations that have made Milwaukee a great city for living, working and playing. The Shepherd Express has played an important role in the changing face of Milwaukee. Over the past three decades, we have contributed to political change in the city and promoted the growth of its cultural life—including the remarkable proliferation of performing arts groups, craft breweries and artisan food and beverage makers of all kinds; the opening of new restaurants; the revitalization

of dying neighborhoods; and a greater awareness of the city’s unique history. Today, when fake news or poorly written pontifications are often substituted for real journalism and analysis, the Shepherd Express has remained a trusted and dependable voice for our 300,000plus readers in print and online. From the cultural legacies left by our city’s beer barons and the socialist administration that gave us America’s greatest system of public parks, through the traditional work ethic of our industrial laborers and our present-day network of entrepreneurs and artisans, Milwaukee has always been a city that demands quality. The Shepherd Express endeavors to live up to those standards in all that we do. We dedicate the 2018 edition of our annual City Guide to our readers, the people of greater Milwaukee. Louis G. Fortis Publisher and Editor-in-Chief David Luhrssen City Guide Editor

City Guide Contents Bowling ...................................................................................................................... 7 Corner Bars .............................................................................................................. 9

County Parks ......................................................................................................... 11 Foodways ................................................................................................................ 15

Lakefront ................................................................................................................. 17 Riverwalk ................................................................................................................ 19 Best of Milwaukee Winners ..................................................................... 20

Dining Guide ....................................................................................................... 27

PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF: Louis Fortis (ext. 3802) GENERAL MANAGER: Kevin Gardner (ext. 3825) EDITOR: David Luhrssen (ext. 3804) ASSISTANT EDITOR: John Schneider (ext. 3817) COPY EDITOR: Selena Milewski (ext. 3819) EDITORIAL ASSISTANT & ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER: John Jahn (ext 3801) EXPRESS EVENTS EDITOR: Rip Tenor (ext. 3810) ASSISTANT A&E EDITOR/MUSIC EDITOR: Evan Rytlewski (ext. 3818) EDITORIAL INTERNS: Yasmine Bree-Marie Outlaw, Caroline Kaufman, Lydia Slattery CREATIVE SERVICES: ART DIRECTOR: Dave Zylstra (3821) GRAPHIC DESIGNER: Melissa Lee Johnson (ext. 3838) GRAPHIC DESIGNER/PHOTOGRAPHER: Maggie Vaughn (3803) ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Alissa Weber (ext. 3805) ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES: Bridgette Ard (ext. 3811), Stephanie Schroeter (ext. 3816), Donna Wagner (ext. 3815) BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER: Chuck Hill (ext. 3822) In Memory of Dusti Ferguson (October 18, 1971 – November 20, 2007) EVENT COORDINATOR: Rachel Repetti (ext. 3823) EVENTS ASSISTANT: Bethany Forseth WEB PUBLISHER: Cole Vandermause (ext. 3807) WEB EDITOR: Rob Hullum (ext. 3806) BUSINESS MANAGER: Peggy Debnam (ext. 3832) CIRCULATION COORDINATOR: Josef Bieniek (ext. 3809) CIRCULATION: CONNIE ANDERSON, THOMAS CAULEY, MARGARET DYER, GARY GORLEWSKI, MIKE HOULEHEN, TOWNSEND HUNT, LARRY JONES, BRENDA LEWIS, FRANK MULVEY, TODD PEARSON, MICHAEL POLLACK, SAMMIE REED, JENNIFER SCHMIDT, DANIEL SURGES, GREG TOMASETTI, RICK VAN WIERINGEN, MICHAEL WALDOCH, MIKE WOOD, DAN ZOLLNER DISTRIBUTION: Shepherd Express is available free of charge. The Shepherd Express may be distributed only by authorized distributors. No person may, without prior written permission of Shepherd Express, take more than one copy of each weekly issue. Mail subscriptions are available. No refunds for early cancellations. One year (52 issues) via First Class mail - $125.00 Six months (26 issues) via First Class mail - $70.00 207 E. Buffalo St., Suite 410, Milwaukee, WI 53202 Phone 414/276-2222 Fax 414/276-3312 Advertising Inquiries: alissa@shepex.com e-mail: info@shepex.com URL: shepherdexpress.com Shepherd Express makes no representations or warranties of any kind, whether expressed or implied, regarding any advertising. Due diligence is recommended before entering into any agreement with an advertiser. Shepherd Express will not be held liable for any damages of any kind relating to any ad. Please check your ad the first day of publication and notify us of any changes. We are not responsible for errors in advertising after the first day. We reserve the right to edit, reject or reclassify advertisements at our sole discretion, without notice. We do not knowingly accept advertisements that discriminate or intend to discriminate on any illegal basis, or are otherwise illegal. NO REFUNDS for cancellation after deadline, no copy changes except to price or telephone number.

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Cover illustration by Melissa Lee Johnson 4

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

Photos taken at Bluemound Bowl 6

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

How Milwaukee Became America’s Bowling Capital AND HOW THAT TITLE SLIPPED AWAY

he story of how Milwaukee became America’s bowling capital is woven into the same fabric as many of our local institutions, the city’s German heritage. “Bowling was a German cultural activity back in the old country,” said Doug Schmidt, a bowling historian and author of They Came to Bowl: How Milwaukee Became America’s Tenpin Capital. “When the Germans started migrating here after the Civil War—and by the 1880s they were settling in Milwaukee— bowling was an extension of their culture.”

>> BY ROB HULLUM

1981, between the men’s and women’s associations in Milwaukee there were around 200,000 residents of the greater Milwaukee area that were bowling in a sanctioned league, around one quarter of the city’s population. But when the factories began to leave Milwaukee, bowling also began its decline. “As the factory jobs dried up the marketplace shrunk,” Schmidt said.

Milwaukee’s strong German roots came together with another factor—the industrial revolution—and began a series of events that would catapult Milwaukee’s rise to prominence in the bowling world. “From the beginning of the industrial revolution up until the 1970s, you can list a who’s who of what industries were based in Milwaukee,” Schmidt said. “Most of their employees looked forward to getting out on any given night of the week to bowl together.”

In 2005, the Bowling Proprietors Association of America, which is located in Arlington, Texas, gained control of the American Bowling Congress. They decided that both parts of the business should be combined. Instead of moving their 32 employees up to Greendale, they shut down the Milwaukee-area facility and built a new one in Arlington, which opened in November 2008. The building was then sold to Walmart, and Schmidt said that after the move Milwaukee’s reputation as America’s bowling capital was permanently damaged.

Then in 1905, the catalyst for what put Milwaukee on the map as the nation’s bowling capital happened. Abraham Lincoln Langtry, a salesman for Northwestern Fuel Company and himself the part owner of a bowling alley, along with Mayor David Rose, successfully lobbied for Milwaukee to host that year’s National Bowling Tournament. Schmidt suspects Mayor Rose’s penchant for turning a blind eye to alcohol and prostitution may have had something to do with the decision.

In the ensuing years, the entire sport of bowling has declined in popularity due to cultural shifts and technology. “The past decade has really been a period of adjustment,” Schmidt said. “League bowling peaked in the 1980s, and our culture has changed so much since then. In large part due to social media and people being constantly on the go, people don’t want to take the time out to sit and socialize for two and a half or three hours. It’s kind of a sad statement on where our society has gone.”

“I never quite figured out if it was because of Langtry being one of the leaders or if it was because Milwaukee had a reputation for being a wide open town,” Schmidt said of the decision with a laugh.

Bowling leagues have dwindled considerably, and Schmidt said that the game is “evolving from a competitive sport to more of a social type of sport.” This leaves stakeholders in the bowling community struggling to adjust to the changing times.

Langtry became secretary of the American Bowling Congress in 1907, and in those times, wherever the secretary lived became the national office for the organization. He kept his position for 25 years, and as this happened, the congress kept putting him in bigger offices and deepening Milwaukee’s position in the bowling world. During the 1960s, the American Bowling Congress collaborated with the Women’s Bowling Congress to build a new combined headquarters in Greendale, which opened in 1971. Around the same time, the sport began growing by leaps and bounds. Schmidt said that by

“Bowling proprietors now are trying to evolve,” Schmidt said. “They’ve gone from running alleys—which is now a totally outdated term—to running centers, which are multimedia type places with upgraded furniture, video rooms, strobe lights and rock music.” No matter what happens with the sport of bowling, Schmidt said that there will always be one advantage. “No matter how good or bad you are, what other sport can you play where the ball always comes back to you?”

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Five Taverns that Embody the Unique Charm of Milwaukee Corner Bars >> BY EVAN RYTLEWSKI

obody gets rich running a corner bar, which may be why so many have closed over the last decade. Yet while the more development-prone parts of the city clear room for ax-throwing bars, mini-golf bars, breweries, distilleries and other novelties, none of those establishments offer anywhere near the comfort or the bang for your buck of a family owned corner tap, where the patrons are chatty, the beer is domestic and the prices are low enough that anybody can afford to buy a round. Like any emblem of Milwaukee’s working-class heritage, it’s easy to overromanticize them, but they really are part of the connective tissue of the city. You’ll get a better sense of the neighborhood and its residents than you will at any craft cocktail lounge. As a general rule, the best corner bar is the one closest to your home, but if you’re looking to make a short trip, here are five destination taverns that make even first-timers feel right at home.

GORDIE’S

2000 E. Cora Ave. • 414-481-7742

Holidays are always a big deal at Gordie’s. Every Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and Valentine’s Day, this low-key St. Francis bar plasters its walls with boxes of the kind of drug-store decorations that you likely remember from your childhood. Even during less festive times of the year, though, it’s an extraordinarily inviting place. The square-shaped bar encourages bar-wide conversations, and the drinks are so cheap that regulars don’t think twice when buying the entire bar rounds of small tap beers or shots of blackberry brandy, a house favorite.

GEE WILLICKERS

2578 N. Dousman St. • 414-372-4559

Don’t let the fact you have to get buzzed in put you off: This Riverwest corner tap is much more inviting than it looks from the outside, with upbeat bartenders and gregarious regulars who always welcome newcomers. There’s usually a pair of beagles

that’ll be eager to meet you, too. Once you’re done petting the dogs, head over to the jukebox, which is stacked not only with the expected oldies and classic-rock favorites, but also decade’s worth of funk, soul and R&B jams that the bartenders are all too happy to crank up. It’s not hard to start a party at this place, even in the middle of the afternoon.

RAIL’S INN DEPOT

2222 E. Saint Francis Ave. • 414-744-2466

Yes, that’s carpeting on the floor, and no, that’s never ideal for a bar. But along with the wood paneling and back-supporting bar stools, that carpeting gives this St. Francis bar (that makes the most of its trackside location) an extra comfy, rec-room feel, and softens the acoustics a bit for patrons who hate yelling over bar clatter. Even at its busiest, this is a relaxing place to grab a High Life.

WAZ’S PUB

4532 W. Burleigh St. • 414-449-5277

Nestled on a busy stretch of Burleigh just a few blocks from Sherman Park, Waz’s Pub can get lively on nights and weekends, but it also does steady business throughout the day thanks to a food menu including catfish, pork chop sandwiches and macaroni and cheese, as well as heaping breakfast platters. In warmer months patrons lounge on a cozy, secluded patio in the back. Like every bar on this list, it does especially brisk business during Packers games.

VALLEY INN

4000 W. Clybourn St. • 414-344-1158

The Valley Inn isn’t just the only bar in Piggsville, the smallest and most secluded of all Milwaukee neighborhoods: It’s the only business period. A homey little grill with cushioned bar stools and wood décor, it does brisk business serving burgers and grilled cheeses during the dinner hour, while regulars congregate at the bar to watch Brewers games, including home games broadcast from just across the interstate that walls off this quiet neighborhood.

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Milwaukee County Parks are Among the Nation’s Best >> BY VIRGINIA SMALL

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MILWAUKEE COUNTY PARKS

ne hallmark of Milwaukee County’s distinctive park systems is that they reflect the native landscape. Preserving waterways and woodlands as public spaces also has been positive for the region’s overall ecology through a network of green spaces that are woven throughout the districts where Milwaukeeans live and work. Here are a few highlights: continued on next page >>

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COUNTY PARKS

EAST SIDE ELKHORN ANTIQUE FLEA MARKET

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Lake Park

Located along a bluff overlooking Lake Michigan from North Avenue to Kenwood Boulevard and bordering Lincoln Memorial Drive. Parking is available in lots accessed by Newberry Boulevard and Lake Park Road, and along adjacent streets. A crown jewel of Milwaukee County Parks, Lake Park’s meandering pathways and scenic vistas showcase Frederick Law Olmsted design principles. Many trees in the 138-acre site were alive when the park began. Lake Park’s ravines embody the concept of “wild gardens”—landscapes designed with a naturalistic aesthetic, including plants native to an area. They afford an escape from urban bustle. Milwaukee County Parks continues to emphasize the planting and protection of native species in the park. Volunteers from Lake Park Friends remove invasive buckthorn, burdock and garlic mustard; their ongoing efforts are a key reason the park’s natural areas remain ecologically healthy.

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Olmsted planned this linear greenway as a graceful link between Lake Park and what was originally called River Park (now Riverside). Newberry was meant to extend the park experience and enhance property values.

Riverside Park

Located along the Milwaukee River’s east bank and bordered by Oakland and Bartlett avenues and Park and Locust streets; intersected by the Oak Leaf Trail. Parking available in lots at the western end of Park Avenue and along adjacent streets. Much of Riverside Park has been sliced and diced, making Olmsted’s original design less apparent. The main exception is the woodland west of the Oak Leaf Trail, and it’s likely that Warren Manning’s original planting contributions remain 1 2

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evident. The Urban Ecology Center (UEC) has been restoring this forest by replacing invasive species with native plants. The woodland also leads to the riverfront, which is also being revitalized.

SOUTH SIDE

Mitchell Park

Bordered by Layton Boulevard, Pierce Street and the Menomonee Valley. Parking is available near Layton Boulevard entrance. Additional bicycle and pedestrian access offered via Hank Aaron State Trail or Pierce Street. Mitchell Park includes the Sunken Garden, one of Milwaukee’s most celebrated landscape designs, completed in 1904 to complement the park’s original 1898 Victorian glasshouse. It featured elegant, colorful, formal plantings surrounding a 360-foot-long by 82-foot-wide “water mirror.” The garden in what was nicknamed Flower Park was removed due to Milwaukee County Parks’ budgetary cutbacks. Outlines of the garden’s structure remain—stairways, stone walls and mature trees. There has been talk of installing permanent sports fields in this area, which would further remove traces of this masterwork, foreclosing options to create more horticultural ties with “the Domes,” the park’s current glasshouses. Photographic displays of the 61-acre park’s early days are displayed in the lagoon pavilion, next to public restrooms. The human-designed lagoon remains the park’s main natural area. Anglers still use the pond and shaded picnic areas on the park’s north side are popular. A hillside amphitheater faces a brick performing stage. Other parts of Mitchell have been carved up for Journey House’s Packers Field, a playground area and baseball diamond.

Kosciuszko Park

Bordered by South Seventh and South 10th streets, Lincoln Avenue and Becher Street. Parking is available in a lot west of Seventh Street and on

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

adjacent streets. Kosciuszko was among Milwaukee’s first seven parks developed after its Board of Park Commissioners was formed in 1889. The 24-acre parcel boasted rolling terrain with oak and maple trees, which were retained after the park was expanded to its current 34 acres. Included are a lagoon for boating and ice-skating, as well as walkways, lawn areas and plantings. Visible while traversing the Lincoln Avenue business corridor, the lagoon attracts flocks of birds and anglers. This much-used park serves many functions in one of Milwaukee’s densest neighborhoods. Pathways invite strolling and pastoral settings are ideal for picnics. Elementary school students from St. Josaphat Parish School use the playground for recess. People gather on benches near the park’s namesake statue and seasonally at the Pelican Cove Family Water Park.

WEST SIDE Washington Park Washington Park Bandshell

Bordered by Lloyd Street, Lisbon Avenue, North 40th Street, Vliet Street and Highway 41. Parking is available in lots off 40th and Lloyd streets and Washington Boulevard. Washington Park was designed by Olmsted as a destination around 1892 and was developed after having been cleared for farming. About 4,000 trees were planted in the park within the first few years. Although Washington Park’s outer areas have been given over to other uses—including a freeway dating to 1962—the 135-acre park’s center retains a seven-acre lagoon, wooded hills and winding pathways—all Olmsted signatures. Summer concerts are hosted at the Art Deco bandshell and picnics areas are popular. To view maps of all of Milwaukee County’s parks, visit county.milwaukee.gov.

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Milwaukee’s Unique Foodways >> BY LACEY MUSZYNSKI

id you have pickled herring and cannibal sandwiches on your family’s holiday table as a kid? Did you get hot ham and rolls every Sunday after church, or go out for custard to celebrate a good report card? If you’re a native Milwaukeean, chances are you either grew up with at least some of those traditions, or know plenty of friends and relatives who did. The historical and cultural food-related traditions of a region are called foodways, and southeastern Wisconsin has a plethora of unique examples. Some, like Friday fish fry and supper clubs, have a regional reach beyond Milwaukee, while others like hot ham and rolls and Danish kringle are confined to a much smaller geographic area. Chances are, unless you lived in another state for a time, you don’t even realize that Milwaukee’s foodways are so localized. Sometimes it’s difficult to pin down exactly where or how a food tradition started. Sunday morning hot ham and rolls likely stemmed out of the Catholic practice of not eating before church, making for throngs of hungry folks wanting something quick in the late morning. A smart bakery owner on the South Side likely saw the potential in this untapped market, and began offering a simple cut of meat along with free rolls. People were hungry, they liked getting something free and a tradition was born that has never really taken hold anywhere else. Other foodways can be traced back to very specific starting points, like frozen custard. Gilles was the first custard stand to open in Milwaukee back in 1938, likely having been influenced by custard’s inclusion in the Chicago World’s Fair. From there came Leon’s in 1942 and Kopp’s in 1950. While custard stands exist in other parts of the country thanks to Coney Island, Ted Drewes and Culver’s, nowhere else has a real culture of custard that supports as many stands as we do. Thanks in part to Wisconsin’s drinking culture, we have a number of beverage traditions as well. Beer chasers with bloody marys are uniquely Wisconsin, and the restaurant format of burgers and bloodies is Milwaukeebased. The brandy old fashioned with muddled fruit would make bartenders gasp in other states. And while a Brooklyn-based bartender claims to have coined the term “pickleback” in 2006, we’ve all been chasing shots with pickle brine for as long as we can remember. Milwaukeeans are lovers of tradition and familiarity, which is probably why we have such strong, unique foodways. We like to eat what our grandparents ate, at least to some extent, which is one reason why the Friday fish fry is still so popular, and bratwursts outsell hotdogs at Miller Park. Food traditions are one of the most intimate, relatable ways of connecting with our history, and deserve to be celebrated every chance we get.

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Building Milwaukee’s Lakefront >> BY MATTHEW J. PRIGGE

uch of what we think of today as Milwaukee’s lakefront wasn’t there when the first Europeans began to settle in this area in the early 1800s. As the city developed, land was platted for development nearly all the way to the ends of the tall bluffs that then lined the lakefront, leaving precious little space for public lands along the water. The lakefront we know today was the result of massive landfill projects over the past 100-plus years that were engineered to maximize both its industrial and recreation potential.

These landfill areas were created by literally dumping earth and stone into the lake until it built up into new, useable land. The earliest fill projects were mostly undertaken using dirt and mud dredged up from the lake or river bottoms and other loads of unneeded debris, including garbage and coal stove ash. These areas include pretty much all lands between the South Shore Marina and North Point. South of the straight cut, where the rivers enter the lake, are the huge docking terminals that were built on the outer edge of Jones Island in the early 1930s. This project was undertaken to maximize the shipping potential of the port and took advantage of the new south portion of the breakwater wall, which could now protect large ships as they docked or sat moored at the island. The lands just to the north of the straight cut have known the most varied uses of any part of the lakefront. One of the first major fill projects was untaken in the 1910s; the initial idea was to use this as expanded municipal docking space. However, by the time the project was finished, railroad shipping had taken away so much business from Great Lakes package freighters that the extra space was not needed. The area was eventually used as an airfield and later a flight school for seaplanes. During the Cold War, it was home to a Nike anti-aircraft missile battery. Since 1970, it has been known as Henry Maier Festival Park, home to Summerfest and many of the city’s major ethnic festivals. Further up along the shore, the largest part of the “reclaimed” lakefront is found in Veterans Park. Work on the 100-acre fill project, which includes all the land east of Lincoln Memorial Drive, began in 1957 with the installation of a sheet piling bulkhead that ran all the way to the lake bed. It took more than five years to complete this “outline” of the park, after which 2.5 million cubic yards of fill—most of it taken from the corridors built for Interstates 43 and 94—were used to create the park. Over the years, other aspects of the lakefront have been adapted to more modern uses: The old Chicago & Northwestern rail line was transformed into the Oak Leaf Trail, the former cruise ship dock gave rise to Discovery World, and earth from the deep tunnel project was used to build Lakeshore State Park. The lakefront is now, perhaps more so than it ever was, Milwaukee’s front door to the world. It is a priceless natural resource that is not quite as natural as it seems.

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How Milwaukee Revitalized its River

>> BY MATTHEW J. PRIGGE

n a 1968 city report on the dreary state of the Downtown portion of Milwaukee, Mayor Henry Maier referred to the water as “an almost dead artery of commerce.” The purpose of the report was to find a way to salvage the river, to remake it into a purposeful part of a Downtown that had fallen into disrepair in the post-war era.

Once a primary industrial driver for the city, the river, by the 1960s, was not unlike Maier’s grim assessment. While the Menomonee Valley was still a hub of shipping and lake freighters continued to frequent the Port of Milwaukee docks on Jones Island, industry along the river had been in decline since the 1920s, when increased automobile traffic discouraged the numerous bridge openings and delays that came with upriver shipping. But even some 40 years later, the ugly remnants of this industrial era continued to define most of the Downtown part of the river. Between the North Avenue dam and the office buildings and high-rises of Wisconsin Avenue, the river was pocked with decaying buildings and empty lots. Industrial sites, both those abandoned and those still in use, seeped pollution into the waterway, producing a pungent odor that was instantly recognizable. It seemed that the massive die-offs of alewives, which made for an even worse stink, was the only thing that could cover it. In addition to the alewives, it was also reported that the riverbanks had become infested with rats, living well off the trash that was regularly strewn about by careless citizens. Aside from the opening of the Marine Plaza Building (today the Chase Tower) in 1961, improvements to the riverfront mostly

consisted of surface parking lots, considered then to be a useful upgrade to land that had little other value. The 1968 report frowned upon surface lots as being unsightly, but pointed to a proposal for a more modern-looking parking structure (which was eventually built on the west side of the river between Michigan and Clybourn) as a much-welcomed upgrade to the overall aesthetic of the waterway. As for the future of the river, the city had a number of big ideas, but no concrete plans to implement them. One proposal had the river north of Wells Street expand to fill a series of manmade lagoons that would spread all the way west to Sixth Street and as far north as the old Park East Freeway. Numerous historic buildings, including the Pabst Theater, would have been bulldozed in this plan, which would have showcased more modern Downtown buildings and added an expansive twinlevel riverwalk. Another called for the river to be limited to small recreational craft and gondolas to simulate the experience of touring Venice. Yet another called for a narrowing of the river to one-third of its width and the creation of promenades both alongside and over the river. One proposal even called for the river to be filled in between North Avenue and the Menomonee River junction, and used as Downtown parkway. The city’s report showed that Milwaukee was deeply concerned with what would become of the river, and also deeply conflicted about how to bring it into the modern era. It would be a few more decades before a cleaner river and the lure of the Riverwalk began to drive development along the waterway, but the thinking of the ’60s and from that of generations before—that the river was a natural resource worth showcasing—remained intact.

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2018 Shepherd Express CITY CONFIDENTIAL LOCAL ACTIVIST Sachin Chheda LOCAL CHARACTER John McGivern LOCAL ENTREPRENUER Michael Crute MILWAUKEE ALDERPERSON Nik Kovac MILWAUKEE COUNTY SUPERVISOR Marina Dimitrijevic MILWAUKEEAN OF THE YEAR / MOST BELOVED POLITICIAN Tom Barrett BEST ORGANIZATION SUPPORTING VETERANS Milwaukee Homeless Veterans Initiative

COFFEE SHOP Colectivo Coffee

DINING OUT AFRICAN RESTAURANT Irie Zulu

DELIVERY MENU Pizza Shuttle

BARBECUE Smoke Shack

DONUTS Cranky Al’s

BAR FOOD Three Lions Pub

FARM-TO-TABLE RESTAURANT / GOURMET RESTAURANT Odd Duck

BREAKFAST / BRUNCH Blue’s Egg

FRENCH RESTAURANT Le Rêve Patisserie & Cafe

BREW PUB / FISH FRY / FRIED CHEESE CURDS Lakefront Brewery

FROZEN YOGURT SHOP Yo Mama!

BUFFET / INDIAN / PAKISTANI RESTAURANT Maharaja

GLUTEN-FREE FRIENDLY Blooming Lotus Bakery

BURGERS TIE! Kopp’s Frozen Custard and Oscar’s Pub & Grill

GELATO SHOP Glorioso’s Italian Market GERMAN RESTAURANT Mader’s Restaurant

BURRITO Café Corazón

GREEK RESTAURANT Oakland Gyros

MOST DESPISED POLITICIAN Donald Trump

CARIBBEAN RESTAURANT Cubanitas

MOST TRUSTED PUBLIC OFFICIAL Tammy Baldwin

CENTRAL / SOUTH AMERICAN RESTAURANT Chef Paz Restaurant

PHILANTHROPIST Herb Kohl PLACE TO PICK UP THE SHEPHERD EXPRESS Colectivo Coffee RISING STAR IN POLITICS / STATE LEGISLATURE Chris Larson

HOT DOG / KITCHEN OPEN AFTER 10 P.M. The Vanguard HOTEL RESTAURANT Mason Street Grill (Pfister Hotel) ICE CREAM / CUSTARD STAND Kopp’s Frozen Custard

CHEAP EATS Conejito’s Place CHEF Gregory León

ITALIAN RESTAURANT Tenuta’s Italian Restaurant

CHICKEN WINGS Point’s East Pub

JAPANESE RESTAURANT Izumi’s (now closed) JEWISH /

CHINESE RESTAURANT DanDan 2 0

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

KOSHER-SYLE RESTAURANT Benji’s Deli KOREAN RESTAURANT Stone Bowl Grill LOUISIANNA / SOUTHERN RESTAURANT / SOUL FOOD Maxie’s MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT / MIDDLE EEASTERN RESTAURANT Casablanca MEXICAN RESTAURANT Botanas Restaurant NATIONAL CHAIN RESTAURANT (NON-FAST FOOD) Panera Bread NEW RESTAURANT (OPENED IN 2017) On the Bus OUTDOOR DINING Barnacle Bud’s PIZZERIA—DEEP DISH Capri di Nuovo PIZZERIA THIN CRUST Zaffiro’s Pizza & Bar PIZZERIA— WOOD-FIRED OVEN Carini’s La Conca d’Oro PLACE TO EAT ALONE George Webb’s RAMEN Red Light Ramen RESTAURANT OPEN ON CHRISTMAS DAY: Three Lions Pub

RESTAURANT SERVICE Sanford Restaurant RESTAURANT WITH A VIEW Harbor House RIBS Saz’s State House Restaurant ROMANTIC RESTAURANT Lake Park Bistro SANDWICH LuLu Cafe SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Devon Seafood & Steak SOUPS Soup Bros. STEAKHOUSE / SUPPER CLUB Five O’Clock Steakhouse STREET FOOD VENDOR Gypsy Taco SUSHI Rice N Roll Bistro TACO BelAir Cantina TAPAS (SMALL PLATES) La Merenda THAI RESTAURANT Thai-Namite VEGAN RESTAURANT

TIE!

On the Bus and Urban Beets Cafe & Juicery VEGETARIAN-FRIENDLY RESTAURANT Beans & Barley

Best of Milwaukee Winners VIETNAMESE RESTAURANT Huế WINE LIST Balzac

RETAIL FOOD BEER SELECTION / LIQUOR STORE Discount Liquor BUTHER SHOP / MEAT SELECTION Bunzel’s Meat Market CHEESE SELECTION West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe CHOCOLATIER Indulgence Chocolatiers FARMERS MARKET West Allis Farmers Market FISH MARKET St. Paul Fish Company GROCERY—ALL PURPOSE Metro Market GROCERY—ETHNIC GROCERY / GOURMET / TAKE-OUT DELI Glorioso’s Italian Market GROCERY— NATURAL FOODS / ORGANIC PRODUCE SELECTION Outpost Natural Foods NEIGHBORHOOD BAKERY Peter Sciortino’s Bakery PRODUCE SELECTION Cermak Fresh Market

SAUSAGE SHOP Usinger’s Famous Sausage URBAN FARM Growing Power, Inc. (now closed) WEDDING CAKE DESIGNER Simma’s Bakery WINE SELECTION Ray’s Wine & Spirits

MILWAUKEE MADE FOOD & BEVERAGES ARTISANAL CHEESE / CHEESE CURDS Clock Shadow Creamery BACON Bunzel’s Meat Market BRATWURST / SAUSAGE Usinger’s Famous Sausage CRAFT BEER Lakefront Brewery CUPCAKES Classy Girl Cupcakes DISTILLED SPIRITS Great Lakes Distillery FROZEN PIZZA Palermo’s HARD CIDER Lost Valley Cider Co. SODA Sprecher TEA Rishi Tea

A&E

OUT & ABOUT

ART GALLERY (NON-MUSEUM) Redline Milwaukee

ATTRACTION FOR OUT-OF-TOWN GUESTS Milwaukee’s Lakefront

ART MUSEUM Milwaukee Art Museum

BAR FOR A QUIET CONVERSATION / WINE SELECTION AT A BAR Balzac

CHURCH FESTIVAL Saint Gregory The Great Parish Festival DANCE COMPANY Danceworks, Inc. LOCAL RADIO PERSONALITY Bob Uecker LOCAL TV PERSONALITY Katie Crowther MILWAUKEE AUTHOR John Gurda MOVIE THEATER Landmark Oriental Theater MUSEUM (NON-ART) Milwaukee Public Museum OUTDOOR FESTIVAL Summerfest RADIO STATION 88.9FM WYMS (Radio Milwaukee) STAGE ACTOR John McGivern STAGE ACTRESS Angela Iannone THEATER COMPANY Milwaukee Repertory Theater

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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BAR ON A BUDGET Wonder Bar BAR TO BE SEEN IN / BAR WITH A PATIO Boone & Crockett BAR TO WATCH SOCCER The Highbury Pub BARTENDER Christine Chapleau @ Camp Bar Third Ward BEER GARDEN Estabrook Beer Garden BLOODY MARY The Wicked Hop BREWERY TOUR Lakefront Brewery COCKTAIL LOOUNGE / ROMANTIC BAR / MARTINI Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge COMEDY CLUB ComedySportz Milwaukee CRAFT BEER SELECTION AT A BAR Sugar Maple DANCE CLUB Mad Planet HAPPY HOUR / SPORTS BAR Nomad World Pub

2018 Shepherd Express HOTEL LOUNGE The Iron Horse Hotel

MICRO BREWERY Third Space Brewing

TRIVIA NIGHT Blackbird Bar

CLUB DJ DJ Shawna

IMPORT BEER SELECTION AT A BAR Von Trier

MILWAUKEE TOUR Gothic Milwaukee

MUSIC

COVER / TRIBUTE BAND Almighty Vinyl

IRISH PUB County Clare Irish Inn & Pub JAZZ CLUB The Jazz Estate KARAOKE BAR Hamburger Mary’s Milwaukee LIVE MUSIC VENUE The Pabst Theater MARGARITA Café Corazón

ACOUSTIC MUSICIAN Derek Sallmann

NEW BAR (OPENED IN 2017) The Love Shack

ALT COUNTRY Road Crew

OPEN MIC NIGHT Up & Under Pub

BLUES BAND Reverend Raven & The Chain Smokin’ Altar Boys CHORAL CROUP Master Singers of Milwaukee

PAINT AND WINE BAR Splash Studio ROCK CLUB Cactus Club STRIP CLUB Silk Exotic Milwaukee Gentlemen’s Club

CLASSICAL MUSIC ENSEMBLE Milwaukee Symphony Orchestra

ELECTRONIC ARTIST GGOOLLDD GUITARIST Joey Carini JAZZ MUSICIAN Ellen Winters METAL BAND It Bleeds RAP / HIP-HOP ARTIST WebsterX RAP / HIP-HOP PRODUCER Klassik

MI CASA ES SU CASA AT THE ORIGINAL BOTANAS!

816 S. 5th Street Milwaukee, WI 53204 414-672-3755 botanasrestaurant.com ALSO SERVING FISH FRYS AND OTHER SEAFOOD DISHES! 2 2

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

ROCK BAND Never Doubt The Worm VOCALIST—FEMALE Betsy Ade VOCALIST—MALE Adam Fettig

SPORTS & REC FAVORITE ADMIRAL Anders Lindbäck FAVORITE BREWERS PLAYER Ryan Braun FAVORITE BREWCITY BRUISER Becky the Butcher

est ofe B Milwauke

015 2010- 2E R

WINN

Best Mexican

Best of Milwaukee Winners FAVORITE BUCKS PLAYER Giannis Antetokounmpo

PADDLESPORTS— RENT OR BUY Milwaukee Kayak Company

FAVORITE PACKERS PLAYER Aaron Rodgers

PUBLIC PARK Lake Park SPORTS TALK RADIO 620AM WTMJ

FAVORITE WAVE PLAYER Ian Bennett FRISBEE GOLF COURSE Estabrook Park GOLF COURSE Erin Hills Golf Course MINI GOLF COURSE Nine Below

WISCONSIN SKI HILL Little Switzerland Ski Area

ART SUPPLY STORE Blick Art Materials

BOATS AND BOATING SUPPLIES SkipperBud’s Pewaukee

AUTO DEALERSHIP —DOMESTIC Holz Chevrolet

BOOKSTORE Boswell Book Company

AUTO DEALERSHIP— IMPORT David Hobbs Honda

BOUTIQUE CLOTHING Luv Unlimited

AUTO DETAILER David Hobbs Honda

BOUGHT & SOLD

AUTO REPAIR Riverside Automotive Service & Parts

ADULT RETAIL STORE The Tool Shed

BIKE SHOP Wheel & Sprocket

BRIDAL DRESS SHOP Eva’s Bridal Center CAMPING EQIUPMENT REI CARPET / FINE RUGS Kashou Carpets

ANTIQUE STORE Antiques On Pierce

CLOTHING—MEN’S Harley’s

CLOTHING—WOMEN’S The Waxwing COMIC BOOK STORE Collector’s Edge Comics EYEWEAR Metro Eye FAIR TRADE STORE Beans & Barley FASHION ACCESSORIES The Waxwing FINE JEWELRY STORE Kesslers Diamonds FLOWER SHOP Belle Fiori, Ltd. FURNITURE STORE Biltrite Furniture

to book your LET YOUR DOG Callprivate swim MAKE A SPLASH! session today! Since 1946 • Formerly Coerper’s Five O’Clock Club

BEST STEAKHOUSE”

“

Shepherd Express 2017 Milwaukee Magazine 2017 OnMilwaukee.com 2017 A-List City Voter 2017

6023 S. Jasper Ave. | dogpaddlemke.com

414-436-1984 • GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE

“One Of America’s Best Steaks”

DAY CARE

TRAINING CLASSES

Thrillist 2017 Tasting Table 2017 Viva Lifestyle & Travel 2017 Book Your Events With Us! Private Dining Tues – Fri

1820 S. 1st St. MKE | 414-763-1304 | bayviewbark.com

414-342-3553 • www.fiveoclocksteakhouse.com

OVERNIGHT CARE GROOMING

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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2018 Shepherd Express GARDEN CENTER Plant Land GIFT SHOP The Gift Shoppe Cudahy HEAD SHOP Pipe Dreams LIGHTING SHOWROOM BBC Lighting MATTRESS STORE Biltrite Furniture MOTORCYCLE DEALERSHIP Wisconsin Harley-Davidson MUSICAL INSTRUMENT STORE Cream City Music NEW RETAIL STORE Kitschecoo Art & Craft Shed PET STORE Pet Supplies Plus RECORD STORE The Exclusive Company SHOE STORE Stan’s SPORTSWEAR Sherper’s TOBACCO SHOP Uhle’s VAPE SHOP Blue On Greenfield VINTAGE / THRIFT STORE Collected Goods

FINANCIAL INSTITUTION FOR GETTING A HOMEMORTGAGE Educators Credit Union

SERVICES RENDERED ACCOUNTANT / TAX ADVISOR JCW Tax & Accounting, LLC

FINANCIAL INSTITUTION FOR OPENING A CHECKING ACCOUNT Educators Credit Union

ANIMAL WELFARE ORGANIZATION Milwaukee Area Domestic Animal Control Commission (MADACC)

FINANCIAL PLANNER / STOCK BROKER Scott Cayo (Edward Jones Financial Advisor)

BANK BMO Harris Bank

FLOOR COVERING / CARPETS Kashou Carpets

BED AND BREAKFAST Kinn Guesthouse MKE

GREEN BUSINESS Growing Power

BODY PIERECING STUDIO Piercings By Lexie

HAIR STYLIST—MEN’S Groom for Men

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

TIE!

HAIR STYLIST— WOMEN’S The Establishment Salon

County Clare Irish Inn & Pub and The Iron Horse Hotel

HOTEL ROOMS The Iron Horse Hotel

CATERER Saz’s

INSURANCE AGENCY Robertson Ryan & Associates

CREDIT UNION Educators Credit Union DOGGY DAY CARE Bay View Bark

LAWYER—BANKRUPTCY Legal Aid Society of Milwaukee

FINANICAL INSTITUTION FOR GETTING A BUSINESS LOAN Educators Credit Union

LAWYER—BUSINESS Gimbel, Reilly, Guerin and Brown

WEDDING RINGS Kesslers Diamonds

LAWYER— CRIMINAL DEFENSE Mastantuono & Coffee, S.C.

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

LAWYER—DIVORCE Kathleen Reiley, S.C. LAWYER—ESTATE PLANNING Gimbel, Reilly, Guerin and Brown LAWYER—PERSONAL IJNURY Hupy and Abraham, S.C. NAIL TECHNICIAN Originails Nail Salon and Spa RIDE SERVICE WayAround SPA Neroli Salon & Spa

ALCOHOL AND DRUG REHABILITATION CENTER Rogers Memorial Hospital ALTERNATIVE MEDICAL CLINIC Lakeside Natural Medicine CHIROPRACTOR Chiropractic Company COSMETIC DENTIST Stephanie Murphy COSMETIC SURGEON Clinic of Cosmetic Surgery

TATTOO ARTIST Brian Kiesner (Brew City Tattoo)

DENTIST Stephanie Murphy DERMATOLOGIST Affiliated Dermatologists

TATTOO PARLOR Brew City Tattoo

ELDER CARE Howard Village

VETERINARIAN Shorewood Animal Hospital

EYE DOCTOR Dr. Amy Jankowski (Metro Eye)

WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHER Front Room Photography

GYNECOLOGIST Julie Webb (Columbia St. Mary’s)

WEDDING VENUE Milwaukee Art Museum

HOSPITAL Froedtert Hospital

MEDICAL

LASIK SURGEON Hale Vision Laser & Implant

ACUPUNCTURIST Milwaukee Community Acupuncture

NATUROPATHIC DOCTOR Sarah Axtell (Lakeside Natural Medicine)

AESTHETICIAN Originails Nail Salon and Spa

NUTRITIONIST Maria Viall

Best of Milwaukee Winners ORTHODONTIST Bell Orthodontic Solutions PHYSICAL THERAPIST Wisconsin Orthopedic Physical Therapy PLACE TO GIVE BIRTH Froedtert Hospital PSYCHIATRIST Rogers Memorial Hospital WALK-IN CLINIC Aurora

REAL ESTATE / HOME IMPROVEMENT ARCHITECT Racinowski Architecture + Design ELECTRICIAN Current Electric HOME BUILDER Bielinski HOME REMODELING LaBonte Construction INTERIOR DESIGNER Jerrica Zaric Interior Design LANDSCAPER KK Landscape & Horticulture MORTGAGE BROKER

TIE!

BMO Harris Bank and Wisconsin Mortgage Corporation

PLUMBER Viking Plumbing REAL ESTATE AGENT Beth Jaworski (Shorewest Realtors) REAL ESTATE DEVELOPER Anderson Commercial Group RENTAL PROPERTY MANAGEMENT GROUP My Dwelling ROOFER Reimer Roofing & Remodeling

LGBTQ DRAG SHOW Hamburger Mary’s Milwaukee LGBTQ ADVOCATE Cream City Foundation LGBTQ-FRIENDLY BUSINESS Hamburger Mary’s Milwaukee LGBTQ-FRIENDLY WORKPLACE Hamburger Mary’s Milwaukee

HIGHER ED COLLEGE FOR STUDENTS AGE 35 AND UP University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

MBA PROGRAM University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

CHILDREN’S PHOTOGRAPHER Stories Framed Photography

MUSIC PROGRAM Wisconsin Conservatory of Music

DAYCARE The Nurturing Nook: Generations

NURSING SCHOOL Marquette University ONLINE COLLEGE / UNIVERSITY University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

NEIGHBORHOODS

PLACE FOR BIRTHDAY PARTIES Organ Piper Pizza Palace PLACE FOR FAMILY FUN Milwaukee County Zoo SUMMER CAMP Camp Minikani Branch YMCA Danceworks Summer Camp

TUTORING SERVICE FOR COLLEGE College Possible Milwaukee VOCATIONAL / TECHNICAL COLLEGE Milwaukee Area Technical College

BODY, MIND & SPIRIT CROSSFIT-STYLE GYM Badger Crossfit

KIDS

GYM Wisconsin Athletic Club

CHILDREN’S CLOTHING STORE Little Monsters

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

FAMILY FRIENDLY RESTAURANT Culver’s

PEDIATRICIAN Claudia Koch

PUBLIC COLLEGE / UNIVERSITY University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

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PILATES STUDIO Barre District YOGA STUDIO Milwaukee Yoga Center

MIDDLE SCHOOL Milwaukee School of Languages

PRIVATE COLLEGE / UNIVERSITY Marquette University

PERSONAL TRAINER Travis Janko

ELEMENTARY SCHOOL Our Redeemer Lutheran School

HIGH SCHOOL Whitefish Bay High School

POST GRADUATE COLLEGE / UNIVERSITY University of Wisconsin - Milwaukee

MASSAGE THERAPIST INVIVO

MILWAUKEE NEIGHBORHOOD TO LIVE IN Bay View MILWAUKEE NEIGHBORHOOD TO DRINK IN Bay View MILWAUKEE NEIGHBORHOOD TO EAT IN Bay View MILWAUKEE NEIGHBORHOOD TO SHOP IN Historic Third Ward SUBURB TO LIVE IN Shorewood SUBURB TO DRINK IN Wauwatosa SUBURB TO EAT IN Wauwatosa SUBURB TO SHOP IN Wauwatosa

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SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

DINING GUIDE Whether you’re in the mood for hamburgers, sushi, fried chicken or tofu, you can find what you’re hungry for in the Shepherd Express’ City Guide Dining Guide. Compiled by some of Milwaukee’s top food critics, our Dining Guide is your tour through numerous restaurants around the greater Milwaukee area—from old favorites to new discoveries. Reviewed by: Jeff Beutner (J.B.), Franklin K.R. Cline (F.K.R.C.), Jake Culhane (J.C.), Eric Engelbart (E.E.), Jack Fennimore (J.F.), Tyler Friedman (T.F.), Susan Harpt Grimes (S.H.G.), Rob Hullum (R.H.), John Jahn (J.J.), Sheila Julson (S.J.), Lisa Kaiser (L.K.), Todd Lazarski (T.L.), Tara Lovdahl (T.Lo.), K.L. Lorenz (K.L.L.), David Luhrssen (D.L.), Kevin Lynch (K.L.), Alisa Malavenda (A.M.), Paul Masterson (P.M.), Selena Milewski (S.M.), Lacey Muszynski (L.M.), Yvonne Ochillo (Y.O.), Emily Patti (E.P.), Matthew J. Prigge (M.J.P.), Jamie Lee Rake (J.L.R.), John Reiss (J.R.), Evan Rytlewski (E.R.), John Schneider (J.S.), Amanda Sullivan (A.S.), Angelika Villafuerte (A.V.) Dining Guide Key: Prices of average entrée with soup or salad: $—$10 or less; $$—$11$20; $$$—$21-$30; $$$$—$31-plus • CC: Credit Cards Accepted • RS: Reservations Accepted • OD: Outdoor Dining Available • SB: Sunday Brunch Served • FF: Friday Fish Fry • FB: Full Bar • V: Valet Parking Available • LT: Late-Night Dining • LB: Lunch Buffet • GF: Gluten-Free Menu • NA: No Alcohol Served. All phone numbers are in the 414 Area Code unless otherwise indicated. continued on next page >>

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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DINING GUIDE

AFRICAN Alem Ethiopian Village

307 E. Wisconsin Ave. The food of Ethiopia can be fiery. Alem offers a gentler version, though their hot pepper sauce still has richness and depth of flavor. Try the doro wot—chicken with a hardboiled egg—prepared with this sauce. There are also beef and lamb versions of this dish. Half of the menu consists of vegetarian items; most tend to be mildly spiced— mostly greens and lentils. Every entrée is served on injera, a round flatbread with a spongy texture. This is also your dining utensil. Dig in and have fun! (J.B.) $-$$. CC. LB. Handicap access. 224-5324

Blue Star Café

1619 N. Farwell Ave. Blue Star Café is an excellent place to grab a quick bite either for carryout or dining in on the eastern edge of the East Side. Specializing in Somali cuisine, it offers affordable and delicious options for meat-eaters, vegetarians and vegans alike. Blue Star offers soups, sandwiches, chicken and veggie sambusa and tasty platters with choice of meat or vegetables atop rice, pasta or salad. (F.K.R.C.) $. CC. Handicap access. 273-9744

Ethiopian Cottage

1824 N. Farwell Ave. The restaurant’s name refers to the traditional dwellings of Ethiopia, where the delicious stews redolent of Africa and the Near East were prepared over open fires and arrayed on a crepe-like sourdough called injera. The hearty tradition is kept alive at Ethiopian Cottage, which features an assortment of meat and vegetarian options plus Ethiopian beer, coffee, tea and honey wine. (D.L.) $$. CC. LB. 224-5226

Irie Zule

7237 W. North Ave. Irie Zulu’s seamless blend of African and Jamaican cuisine makes for a vibrant dining experience unique to Milwaukee. Meals are thoughtfully prepared, made with local ingredients and gloriously spiced using products from Afro Fusion Cuisine, owner Yollande Tchouapi Deacon’s line of spices and marinades available in store or online. Enjoy hard-to-find African dishes including Beef Suya and delicious seafood pepper soup made with sustainably raised cod. Try a house-made hibiscus juice to offset the spicier dishes. Irie Zulu’s ambiance is warm, inviting and familial. Be prepared to wait if the restaurant is busy but, as our server pointed out, this only allows for more bonding time. (S.M.) $$. FB. 509-6014

AMERICAN The Bay Restaurant

342 E. Silver Spring Drive “By The Bay, For The Bay,” is The Bay Restaurant’s tagline, and it practices what it preaches. Nestled next to the Fox Bay Cinema Grill on Whitefish Bay’s

“Main Street” of East Silver Spring Drive, The Bay is a comfortable and casual restaurant with an authentic neighborhood vibe. It serves eclectic American fare for lunch and dinner, seven days a week. (K.L.L.) $$. FB. Handicap access. 455-3045

Buckley’s Restaurant & Bar

801 N. Cass St. Serving American comfort food with many global influences, Buckley’s selections are familiar but intriguing with many creative spins and unassuming ingredients. Housed in a casually elegant setting, the East Town restaurant serves a fine fish fry, a vibrantly colorful Vietnamese-style barbecue pork sandwich, one of the city’s best Caesar salads and house-made desserts. (K.L.L.) $$$. CC. FF. FB. SB. 277-1111

Champion Chicken

8718 W. Lisbon Ave. A full-service restaurant on the Northwest Side for decades, Champion Chicken’s spacious, dark interior has many quiet corners amid the barn wood walls and rustic ornaments. And if you want a delivery, your dinner may arrive in one of Champion Chicken’s famous trucks topped with the image of its namesake fowl. The menu is huge and, unlike many chain-operated “family restaurants,” a full bar is available. The specialty, of course, is chicken in all its varieties. Especially good is the barbecue chicken pizza. (D.L.). $$. CC. FB. 462-6200

Comet Café

1947 N. Farwell Ave. An all-in-one bar, restaurant and coffee shop, Comet Café cooks its comfort food from scratch using mostly local ingredients. Entrées are hearty and satisfying, with options including meatloaf with beer gravy, a turkey dinner and a vegan Salisbury steak (one of many vegetarian or vegan options). Among the more inspired sandwiches are the Leghorn (pulled chicken with vegetables topped with cream cheese and apricot jam) and a vegan gyro made with grilled seitan. Breakfast options, including pancakes made with bacon (one of the menu’s favorite ingredients), are served until 3 p.m. daily. (E.R.) $-$$. CC. OD. SB. FF. FB. Handicap access. 273-7677

Crabby’s Bar & Grill

2113 E. Oklahoma Ave. Crabby’s Bar & Grill has been a Bay View fixture since 1964. A windowless dining room diminishes distractions—allowing diners to focus on specialties ranging from Cajun, seafood, steaks and pasta dishes. Homemade dressings are a nice touch on the salads. Tuesday through Saturday, sample Francisco’s classic thin-crust pizzas featuring favorite traditional toppings. For those with a more adventurous side, try a cheese and kraut pizza topped with sauerkraut, caraway and sausage. (S.H.G.) $$-$$$. CC. FF. FB. Handicap access. 769-9999

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Crazy Water

839 S. Second St. Located inside a former Walker’s Point tavern (sound familiar?), Crazy Water was the pioneer. Cooking occurs behind the bar, and it’s enjoyable to watch the chefs whip up their American fusion magic. The menu follows trends with the mandatory kale salad, flat iron steak and diver scallops. The signature “crazy” shrimp adds a bit of spice to the menu. Crazy Water remains a gem. (J.B.) $$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. 645-2606

The Diplomat

815 E. Brady St. Dan Baldwin, former chef at Milwaukee institutions like Harbor House, Bacchus and Carnevor, has opened The Diplomat in the former Bosley on Brady space. A new mahogany bar is the focal point of the restaurant, and the rich red color is carried throughout the space. Pops of color come from a living wall of plants and historical Milwaukee posters. The Diplomat serves a menu of about a dozen American small plates along with a full bar that has its own food menu. Dishes will change seasonally, and right now include items like corn bruschetta with bell peppers and cherry tomatoes, New York strip steak with cured egg yolk, and Diplomat fries which are cooked three times and served with aioli. (L.M.) $$. CC. FB. OD. GF. 800-5816

Farmer’s Wife

6533 W. Mitchell St. One of the area’s growing number of restaurants supporting local farmers, the Farmer’s Wife speaks to an easier time when folks gathered around the dinner table for classic American cooking. The menu’s East Coast-inspired dishes include lobster roll and stuffed quahogs as a side. All dinners are served with a choice of garlic mashed potatoes, French fries or rice, side salad and a warm cheddar corn bread that’s outstanding. The Farmer’s Wife carries about 40 beers (including some craft beers on draft) but also offers a nice selection of Wisconsin wines and spirits. (A.M.) $$. CC. FB. FF. SB. GF. 488-8296

The Fitz

2308 W. Wisconsin Ave. With the hiring of new culinary director Jason Gorman, the Ambassador Hotel has remodeled and rebranded its restaurants and bars. The Fitz replaces Envoy as the hotel’s flagship restaurant. The name is a nod to F. Scott Fitzgerald, which fits in with the hotel’s roaring twenties feel. The Fitz will serve breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner in a gold accented art deco dining room. The dinner menu consists of some retro classics, like rumaki made with chicken livers and pork belly, crab Louis salad and lamb chops with sweet pea potato pancakes. (L.M.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. RS. SB. 345-5015

Hōm Wood Fired Grill

5750 N. Port Washington Road, Bayshore Town Center Main courses offer burgers, sandwiches and entrées that include steak, shrimp and lobster.

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

The beef stroganoff ($15) is tender, and there are plenty of fresh mushrooms accented with dill. Add some homemade noodles and sour cream and you have a comforting dish. Fish dishes include walleye, red snapper and salmon. The Wisconsin Weekend Specials include a Friday fish fry and prime rib on their Saturday and Sunday brunch menu. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. FF. SB. Handicap access. 312-7043

Honeypie Bakery & Café

2643 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Honey Pie offers daytime, nighttime and brunch menus, and as their name suggests, baked goods are winning items. If you go for dinner, consider the chicken and biscuit pie. The rich, delicate biscuit is enveloped by a tangy stew in harmonized proportion. Another popular entrée, the Cornish pasty features seasonal fillings in a buttery, flaky pie crust. It comes with a salad or fries that have me reaching for more even if I promised myself I’d stop when full. The beverage menu includes several signature drink concoctions and a sufficient beer and wine list. Honey Pie takes pride in sourcing their menu from local farmers and making eco-friendly choices, such as serving their drinks without straws. (T.Lo.) $$. CC. OD. SB. Handicap access. 489-7437

Hubbard Park Lodge

3565 N. Morris Blvd. Tucked away on the banks of the Milwaukee River, the Hubbard Park Lodge enjoys a scenic, woodsy locale. Offering its rustic cathedral-ceilinged space for weddings and other events most days of the week, the Lodge also serves a Friday fish fry and a Sunday brunch. The former is a laid-back but organized affair with attentive servers, high-quality surf-and-turf selections and a family friendly atmosphere (you probably will see small children dancing to the accordion music). The beer-battered cod is a particularly tasty Wisconsin favorite, and the drink menu continues the local pride with selections from Lakefront Brewery. (S.M.) $$. CC: All major. RS. SB. FF. FB. 332-4207

Mad Rooster Café

4401 W. Greenfield Ave. A kitschy big red barn on Greenfield Avenue houses one of the best breakfast spots in Milwaukee. The one word that best describes Mad Rooster’s food and service would be consistent. Across the board, both were consistently good and made it an enjoyable and tasty experience. Mad Rooster serves both breakfast and lunch all day and has a long list of choices in the sweet and savory category and even some interesting dishes that combine both for the ultimate taste sensation. (A.M.) $$. Handicap access. 231-9120

Meraki

939 S. Second St. While the name of the restaurant comes from a Greek word, the cuisine at Meraki is not Greek. Rather, it’s more of an “American Contemporary” style. Served as “Small Shares” or “Large Shares,” this food works well with a small group of diners

DINING GUIDE who like to share with the rest of the table. The menu changes frequently, so some dishes that are here today may be gone tomorrow. Catch them while you can! (S.H.G.) $$$. FB. Handicap access. 897-7230

Mi-key’s

811 N. Jefferson St. Located in Cathedral Square Park, Mi-key’s is a great place for barbecue and happy hour value. It’s also the perfect spot for dinner with a lively bar, interactive bar games and other entertainment. They have a wide variety of meats from the smoker, burgers, sandwiches and “social starters” for sharing. When the clock strikes 10 p.m., its other personality comes out in the form of a lively “Naughty Nights” bar scene, making it a hot spot for socializing. (A.M.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. FF. LT. RS. 273-5397

Motor Bar & Restaurant

401 W. Canal St. The Harley-Davidson Museum restaurant is as architecturally impressive as the galleries. The dining room and the outdoor terrace boast serene views of the Menomonee River. The menu focuses on Wisconsin and the Midwest, including booyah—a soup thick as a stew and said to originate in Green Bay. Entrées include homey fare like mac ‘n’ cheese, fish fry, steak and barbecue ribs. Portions tend to be large. While the museum is recommended, Motor has a setting and food that are worthy of a visit, too. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. RS (8+). FB. OD. Handicap access. 287-2778

Moxie

501 E. Silver Spring Drive The contemporary American restaurant serves lunch, dinner and brunch. Starters like a Wisconsin cheese board and brandied liver pâté appear on both the lunch and dinner menus. Sandwiches and salads make up the bulk of the lunch options, while dinner adds entrées like a tomahawk pork chop and scallop carbonara with crispy pork belly. Four different versions of eggs benedict are available at brunch, including one with steak medallions, fried green tomatoes, poached eggs and hollandaise. (L.M.) $$-$$$. FB. SB. 204-8980

Muskie’s Gourmet House

800 Milwaukee Ave., South Milwaukee Muskie’s serves a fine selection of daily specials, including a Friday fish fry with choice of lightly breaded cod, walleye and perch. The pizza dough is made in house; there are seven burgers and such unusual bar food appetizers as sweet potato wedges and fried dumplings. Many small touches brighten the menu (where else is “Greek dressing” an option for salads?). Portions are generous, service is friendly and the dining room walls are covered with vintage photos of South Milwaukee. “Gourmet”? Let’s just call it good food. (D.L.) $$. FF. FB. 435-0181

nines American Bistro

12400 N. Ville du Parc Drive nines American Bistro (lower-case “n” is their stylistic choice) is located at the corner of casual and elegant. The restaurant at the River Club of Mequon wants everyone to feel welcome. nines serves dinner Tuesday through Saturday plus brunch on Sunday. The menu is expansive. Many categories with plenty of variety accommodate just about every taste or occasion, including vegetarian and gluten-free offerings to satisfy even the heartiest carnivore and carbivore. (K.L.L.) $$-$$$$. CC. SB. FF. FB. GF. Handicap access. 262-518-0129

North Avenue Grill

7225 W. North Ave. The popularity of the North Avenue Grill speaks to the new owner’s ability to make delicious, high-quality comfort food at wallet-friendly prices. The place is clean and cozy, with booths along one wall, a few tables with chairs up front and a counter area for the classic diner experience. In the warmer months, outdoor sidewalk seating is perfect to catch a breeze or enjoy the vibe of bustling North Avenue. (S.H.G.) $-$$. CC. FF. OD. No checks. 453-7225

North Star American Bistro

4518 N. Oakland Ave, 964-4663 19115 W. Capitol Drive #100, 262-754-1515 “Real. Good. Food.” Is North Star’s motto. A pretty

simple concept, though most of us would agree finding it executed successfully and consistently is often the exception not the rule. Not only does North Star deliver on its food, it does so with comfortable confidence and without pretension. The servers are professional and knowledgeable from the wine list to the menu. Little details are attended to, including keeping water glasses filled, empty plates cleared and bread in three styles (from Breadsmith) with whipped butter. (K.L.L.) $$$-$$$$. CC. SB. FF. FB. RS. Handicap access.

Open Flame

5081 S. 108th St. Although there is a martini menu, don’t expect anything trendy from the kitchen. Go for allAmerican fare like plump roast chicken or sliced roast pork with real mashed potatoes and gravy. The renovated interior of the former Omega has a clubby feel with dark woodwork and a spacious lounge. It’s a family friendly place that just happens to serve cocktails. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FF. SB. RS. OD. Handicap access. 425-5177

The Original

roast. Served traditionally with mashed potatoes, veggies and smothered in brown gravy, pot roast is never the best-looking dish, but it tasted the way it should: Like mom used to make. (K.L.L.) $$$. CC. RS. FF. FB. 262-242-0530

Remington’s River Inn

130 S. Main St. Remington’s fresh “made-to-order” comfort food is served in a friendly environment. The menu can be described as American classics: Buffalo wings, Cobb salad, pan-fried walleye, bone-in ribeye, chili, French onion soup and a patty melt. Remington’s menu also features neighborhood favorites including burgers, specialty salads, pizza and a Friday fish fry. Wash it all down with a rotating selection of eight draft beers, more than two dozen bottled beers and a dozen or so wine varieties. And when the weather cooperates, enjoy it all alfresco on this Thiensville restaurant’s back patio overlooking the Milwaukee River. (K.L.L.) $$-$$$. OD. FF. FB. Handicap access. 262-238-2697

Tess

2496 N. Bartlett St. The concept is upscale: new American cuisine in a speakeasy-like setting with low banquettes, tin ceiling and dark wood accents. Dinner items include a chicken liver mousse starter ($8), steamed clams with charred lemon and tasso, scallops with confit mushrooms and grits, and a flat iron steak with duck fat potatoes. Brunch is also served, including house doughnuts with cinnamon sugar and cider icing and a Wisconsin breakfast burger with a brat and burger patty, cheddar, egg and Dijon mayo. (L.M.) $$. FB. OD. 323-9668

2499 N. Bartlett Ave. Tess is the kind of place that plays jazz at a level so unobtrusive you may wonder if you’re hallucinating it and features upscale American fare. Upon entering the comfortable space, you’re greeted with a menu that offers up three courses. Big eaters will be happy to know that one item from each of the course options will satiate. The crab cake is tough to beat—it’s served, weirdly and beautifully, with a house-made potato chip that’s longer than any potato chip you’ll ever see again in your life. (F.K.R.C.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. FF. RS. GF. Handicap access. 964-8377

Range Line Inn

Tosa Bowl & Bun

2635 W. Mequon Road Inside, you feel transported in time: Low ceilings, lots of wood paneling, even carpet flooring all contribute to the cabin-y vibe. The menu is driven by daily specials, including prime rib (Tuesday), fresh Lake Superior whitefish (Thursday), whole roast duck (Saturday) and even lobster (Wednesday, seasonal)—not to mention Wisconsin classics like Friday fish fry (haddock, perch or cod) and pot

7212 W. North Ave. Offering sandwiches, daily entrée and soup specials, salads and party trays, this family owned and operated deli celebrates homemade goodness. Entrées include scalloped potatoes and ham, meatloaf, lasagna and a Friday fish fry. Toasted potato soup, tomato zucchini soup, white bean chicken chili and Rueben soup are among the featured daily delights. Served on Sciortino

Rooted in Tr ad i ti o n. Inspired to I nnovate .

Celebrates 85 Years

From the birth of opera in Italy to a new work by America’s greatest living composer, celebrate the history and future of opera in Milwaukee with the Florentine’s 2018-19 season. Get all of the details at f lor en tin eop e ra.o rg. Call 1-800-32-OPERA for tickets.

Photo Courtesy of Houston Grand Opera, Lynn Lane Photographer

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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DINING GUIDE Bakery rolls, Bowl and Bun’s sandwich selection includes chicken salad, roasted veggies and the recommended Italian—a classic combination of provolone, ham, salami and pepperoni. For lighter options, consider one of the salads served with homemade dressings and croutons. (E.P.) $-$$. FF. 210-2834

ASIAN FUSION Bee’s Cuisine

2336 N. Farwell Ave. Bee’s Southeast Asian offerings have quickly become a go-to for East Siders grown tired of the nondescript Chinese dine-in and delivery options. Bee’s got its start in 2006 as a family run outdoor booth at the Fondy Farmer’s Market, selling eggrolls, fried rice, crab Rangoon and their signature stuffed chicken wings. With the move to Farwell Avenue, they expanded to a full menu. The location is quiet and homey, a great place to dine and talk without the interferences of bar chatter or television. The menu offers unique items, including coconut flake-fried bananas and homemade pork and ginger sausages. (M.J.P.) $-$$. CC. RS. NA. 551-2166

Buddha Lounge

1504 E. North Ave. Vietnamese cuisine and sushi are most heavily represented, with some Thai, Chinese and American dishes thrown in for good measure. You can even get fusion Tacos de Buddha as an appetizer or bar snack, with beef, pork or lemongrass chicken in corn tortillas and served with salsa. Comforting Vietnamese phở is a big draw. The sushi menu centers around rolls, from simple, traditional style with your choice of seafood to more elaborate creations like the midnight roll with tuna, salmon, mango and black rice. Thai and Chinese-American portions of the menu stick to favorite dishes. You can also get a half-pound Buddha burger. (L.M.) $$. FB. 283-8400

Kanpai

408 E. Chicago St. The elaborate wood sushi bar is an attraction in itself. So is the sushi. The signature rolls are elaborate presentations. Try the buri toro nigiri sushi, the belly of hamachi or yellowtail. This is a sister restaurant to Brookfield’s Wasabi, and the menu follows the Japanese fusion theme, although it is not identical and includes innovative small plates. Grilled sea scallops are served over orzo pasta and jalapeño poppers are stuffed with wagyu beef. Expect to be frequently surprised. (J.B.) $$$. CC. RS. FB. Handicap access. 220-1155

Lucky Ginger

221 N. Water St. Lucky Ginger’s menu is a unique Southeast Asian fusion of flavors and a great stop for lunch hour, a break from shopping or a fun evening out for dinner. The atmosphere is inviting and has a funky

up-beat vibe. Lucky Ginger’s atmosphere may be contemporary, but with the first few bites you can taste the authentic flavors true to Southeast Asian cuisine. (A.M.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 269-8699

Mekong Café

5930 W. North Ave. The varied cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam and Laos meet on one menu. Begin with bánh xèo—Vietnamese crepes with a golden color from turmeric and the sweetness of coconut milk; then perhaps a Thai curry or the red curry roast duck. The more adventurous will want to try the grama chanta with homemade Laotian sausages with a fiery kick of hot pepper. Finish with a dessert of purple sticky rice pudding with mango. This kitchen cooks with the confidence that ranks this café with the very best purveyors of Southeast Asian food. (J.B.) $$. LB. CC. 257-2228

NaNa Asian Fusion & Sushi Bar

4511 N. Oakland Ave. The front room has a sushi bar, but sushi is not the only attraction. Many fusion entrées are listed by the sauce (Japanese eggplant garlic, Szechuan peppercorn, Malaysian curry, etc.), and you choose a meat or tofu for it. Vegetables are also added. You might be surprised with asparagus or jicama. Everything is fresh. The sushi selection is good and includes toro. For variety, order the sunomono, which includes six different sashimis for a modest price. The décor is warm and serene. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. Handicap access. 967-8888

Rice n Roll

1952 N. Farwell Ave. The Asian fusion of sushi and Thai is a great combination with many choices. Rice n Roll offers lunch specials of both sushi and Thai and a sushi happy hour. The sushi is as amazing as the chefs behind the bar, who seem to really have a good time together and enjoy what they do. The rice is cooked and seasoned well, rolled with perfection in a lovely presentation or a wonderful base for the donburi, sashimi and nigiri of fresh fish that drape over it with that pure, marine-like quality. Rice n Roll serves 15 different sakes, including a dry house variety available chilled or hot. (A.M.) $-$$. Handicap access. 220-9944

RuYi

1721 W. Canal St. Take a break from bingo and slots and pay a visit to RuYi, a casual spot that serves some fine Asian fare in the Potawatomi Hotel and Casino. The restaurant is small, but the menu has large ambitions with the flavors of Japan, China, Korea, Vietnam and other Southeast Asian countries. Papaya salad and Korean beef are perfectly good, but the best items tend to be Chinese. The jumbo pot stickers are definitive and the shrimp with spicy salt and pepper is splendid. The noise level is the sole drawback, just a reminder that the slot machines are still waiting for you. (J.B.) $$. CC. LT. Handicap access. 847-7335 3 0

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Sake Tumi

714 N. Milwaukee St. Situated within Milwaukee Street’s thriving scene of bars and restaurants, Sake Tumi’s centerpiece is a long sushi bar that dominates the dining area. Sake Tumi’s original menu was a pioneer in Asian fusion, offering a few Korean items along with Japanese cuisine. That tradition continues, as today’s menu expands its options for Korean food and adds some Chinese dishes as well. (J.B.) $$$$$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 224-7253

BAR FOOD/ BEER PUBS Barnacle Bud’s

1955 S. Hilbert St. No list of patios in Milwaukee is complete without the classic Barnacle Bud’s. There aren’t too many tropical-themed spots around, so this is the only place where you’ll feel like you’ve been transported to Key West. The river isn’t exactly Caribbean blue, but the hidden location, bright colors and ramshackle design go a long way in making you forget MKE. Seating is either at the bar/oyster bar combo, or at one of the many sun-bleached picnic tables. Dumpster Punch served in a mason jar will always be a Milwaukee favorite. (L.M.) $-$$. FF. FB. SB. OD. 481-9974

Benno’s Genuine Bar & Grill

7413 W. Greenfield Ave. In addition to a fantastic beer selection, Benno’s offers an impressive assortment of typical pub fare, ranging from burgers and chicken wings to classic Reuben sandwiches and deep-fried appetizers. Burgers, including turkey and veggie selections, are served with fresh cut fries—plain or with garlic-Romano seasoning. (E.P.) $-$$. FB. 453-9094

Buck Bradley’s

1019 N. Old World Third St. This classy take on a sports food bar offers a variety of lunch and dinner foods as well as breakfast on Saturday and Sunday. Here you’ll find everyone’s favorite bar food classics as well as some of their own unique creations such as Gold Fever wings. Topped off with friendly faces and a welcoming atmosphere, Buck Bradley’s is the perfect place to grab a drink after work or to catch the game with friends. (A.V.) $$. CC. OD. RS. FF. FB. 224-8500

Café LuLu

2261 and 2265 S. Howell Ave. The sandwich selection at this longtime Bay View favorite is eclectic and worldly. From the East, there’s a Mediterranean steak pita, an Indian chicken pita and a falafel pita. From the South, there’s a chipotle chicken pita, with black bean salsa and a cumin-lime sauce, and a loaded Santa Fe cheddar melt. From France there is a croque monsieur with capicola ham and Swiss on a baguette. You get the picture. Vegetarian options abound, and all sandwiches include a choice of LuLu’s signature

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Asian slaw, thick-cut potato chips or both. Always opt for both. (E.R.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. SB. Handicap access. 294-5858

Camino

434 S. Second St. Camino specializes in elevated bar food and American craft beers, with 20 rotating selections on tap. You can find customary bar fare such as burgers and wings, but the Camino staff hold these dishes to the highest standard. The beef for the burgers is brought in fresh four times a week and is ground in house. They also took their time in creating interesting menu items like the Beet Reuben that comes with everything you would find on a traditional Reuben, except the meat is replaced with roasted beets. (R.H.) $-$$. FB. 800-5641

Cloud Red

4488 N. Oakland Ave. Cloud Red’s menu is set up for easy sharing. Try their Munch Mix with peanuts, popcorn, Chex and pretzels with a bourbon glaze that coats each morsel. The spinach and artichoke dip was loaded with cheese on top and the right amount of flatbread to smear every bit of the dip without having to ask for more. Carnivores can’t go wrong with the Ney’s Big Sky Burger, a juicy half-pound burger that was perfectly cooked with cheese, bacon and fried crispy onions. The menu changes frequently. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. LT. Handicap access. 231-9660

Crafty Cow

2675 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Crafty Cow features more burgers than you can shake a stick at alongside 16 craft beer taps. The burgers, delivered Juicy Lucy style—that is to say, cheese-stuffed and drippy—are often stacked with compelling ingredients that meld well. Take, for instance, the Twice Baked ($9), stuffed with bacon and white cheddar and topped with house ranch chips, bacon dust, sour cream and caramelized onions. Crafty Cow also offers four rotating burgers from which a portion of the proceeds are donated to various local charities and causes. Their tasty fries aren’t served de facto as a side, but a small order ($3) split between a couple of people was plenty. (F.K.R.C.)

Distil

722 N. Milwaukee St. The entrance is discrete—a bit like a speakeasy. The interior is dark, and the bar is long. Distil is the place to order carefully prepared craft cocktails. The menu isn’t large but offers suitable ballast, with sliders made from Nueske’s bacon, hormone-free beef or barbecue chicken. There are flatbreads, fries with garlic aioli and a pork belly starter. (J.B.) $$. FB. 220-9411

Erv’s Mug

130 W. Ryan Road Though it may send you a bit further south than usual, Erv’s Mug is worth the trip. Are 32 beers on tap (typically featuring at least a couple of hard-

DINING GUIDE to-find and/or interesting brews), a great liquor list and archaic beer advertisements galore not enough? Come for all that; stay for the intimate service and wonderful menu. The prime rib sandwich is great, but their French onion soup is the star of the show. (F.K.R.C.) $$. CC. SB. FF. FB. Handicap access. 762-5010

The Explorium Brewpub

5300 S. 76th St. The beers brewed on site all are named for famous explorers, like Livingstone’s Porter and Captain Kidd’s Lost IPA. Quotes from explorers or about exploring appear on the walls of the large space that’s kept cozy with a brick fireplace and warm wood furniture. Even the patio has a fireplace, though the weather needs to warm up a little before it gets any use. You can explore various parts of the globe through the menu as well: Belgian-style mussels are available in three flavors, Cantonese calamari is tossed in a sweet chili sauce, and a Wisconsin rarebit soup is a local take on the Welsh favorite. Burgers, pizzas, steaks and chops round out the rest of the menu of this Southridge Mall-ensconced restaurant. (L.M.) $$. FB. OD. 423-1365

The Harp Irish Pub

113 E. Juneau Ave. The dark woody interior opens to a deck overlooking the Milwaukee River. The Irish tricolor is proudly displayed but the menu is virtually all American with reasonably priced, modestly sized burgers on brioche buns served with choice of fries, onion rings or crispy Harp chips. There is a nod to Wisconsin in the excellent lightly battered fried cheese curds and to Eire in the corned beef served as Reuben roll appetizers or the hearty Reuben sandwich. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. OD. FF. FB. Handicap access. 289-0700

Harry’s on Brady

1234 E. Brady St. This new sister venue to Shorewood Harry’s Bar and Grill has an appealing menu with an exciting range of dishes that stand high on the list for healthy eating: salmon, shrimp, eggs, plentiful veggies, fruits, nuts and good oils as well as highquality steaks and burgers. The Happy Hour on Monday-Friday from 3-6 p.m. offers great deals on drinks, including featured craft beers, and small dishes from wings or sliders to humus or an edamame falafel platter with beautiful sauces. Showcase windows across the front open completely while outdoor tables under a broad awning put you right in the middle of the sidewalk at the heart of Brady Street. (J.S.) $$$. CC. RS. FB. FF. LT. SB. OD. Handicap access. 964-6800

Hooligan’s Super Bar

2017 E. North Ave. Hooligan’s Super Bar stands out among the sea of other establishments situated along North Avenue. A beer selection that boasts 99 different canned brews and premium bar food, including the super spicy Beelzaburger, have kept this East Side bar a favorite since 1936. Make sure to stop in on your

birthday for a complimentary boot of beer. (R.H.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. FF. 273-5230

Izzy Hops

2311 N. Murray Ave. A pub and sports bar that specializes in craft beer and bourbon, Izzy Hops features 30 beer taps and 30 bourbons, plus a bourbon club for enthusiasts. The space features Cream City brick behind the bar, warm lighting and a wood bar top, making it cozier than the average sports bar. A small menu of the usual bar favorites is served, like a dozen chicken wings, nachos with beef or pork, a jalapeño popper burger and the Murray Avenue meat pie with homemade sausage, pulled pork, meatballs, mushrooms and onions. (L.M.) $-$$. FB. 249-4489

WE LOVE LOCAL. (moo. mo )

Jackson’s Blue Ribbon Pub

1203 N. 10th St. Jackson’s Pub attracts a lively crowd for lunch, dinner and drinks. Housed in a former Pabst brewery warehouse, the Pub’s inventive bar menu includes a variety of soups and attractively served salads, appetizers, sandwiches and wraps. The portions can be described as “old Milwaukee,” geared toward a city with a big appetite. Appetizers include a giant hot pretzel served warm with horseradish and hot cheese dipping sauces and dusted with salt. It’s large enough to feed a family. Not surprisingly, the Pub sells Pabst Blue Ribbon in cans, bottles and on tap. But they also serve other tap beers plus an enviable list of 60 bottled craft beers. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. OD. SB. 276-7271

Joe’s K Ranch

4840 S. Whitnall Ave. Prime rib and the Friday fish fry are the main draws. Barbecue ribs are also worthy of a visit. Look for daily specials like the half-rack with shrimp that is nearly half that price. Lunch offers a smaller prime rib cut that most would consider a big dinner. The Friday fish fry offers cod, perch and walleye. Orange roughy also appears as a special. Many sandwich choices also make this a good place for families. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB. FF. Handicap access. 481-1775

Lakefront Brewery

1872 N. Commerce St. Friday night is the busiest time at the Lakefront Brewery Beer Hall, with good reason: The fish fry is one of the best in Milwaukee. While you can get Eastside Dark-battered cod, panko-breaded perch or shrimp and baked walleye, the real draw is the fried smelt. You don’t often find these tiny whole fish on menus, except maybe at some old-school taverns up north. The batter is extremely light, like tempura, so that it doesn’t overwhelm the delicate texture of the fish. Smelt comes with cocktail sauce, but if you’re a tartar fan, ask to substitute their very tasty homemade version instead. Skip the fries and go straight for the potato pancakes or German potato salad on the side. (L.M.) $-$$. FB. FF. Handicap access. 372-8800

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DINING GUIDE Leff’s Lucky Town

7208 W. State St. Leff’s Lucky Town puts to rest the notion that neighborhood bars have to be dark and dingy. A wall of windows, including a garage door-style window that opens to warm-weather patio seating, achieves a bright, airy feel. Lunch and happy hour specials draw patrons daily. Hometown products add to the neighborly feel of Leff’s, including offerings from Lakefront Brewery, Great Lakes Distillery, Palermo’s Pizza and Bunzel’s meats. (S.H.G.) $-$$. CC. FF. OD. Handicap access. 258-9886

McBob’s Pub & Grill

4919 W. North Ave. Corned beef fans in Milwaukee have staunchly declared their support for Jake’s or Benji’s but may find a new favorite in McBob’s. The corned beef is melt-in-your-mouth tender, and sandwiches are enhanced by a horseradish-mustard spread. Fish fry offerings on Wednesday and Friday are also a pleasure when McBob’s serves up fried perch, walleye and grouper. Pizzas are featured on other days, and breakfast is available daily. (S.H.G.) $-$$. CC. Handicap access. 871-5050

Milwaukee Ale House

233 N. Water St., 276-2337 1208 13th Ave., Grafton, 262-375-2337 At its original Third Ward location, Milwaukee Ale House is certainly one of the most visible options along the waterway and offers a menu and beer selection that will not disappoint. Located in the red brick Saddlery Building (built 1894), the Ale House opened in 1997, making it an elder statesman among restaurants in the reborn Third Ward. Their outdoor seating offers a good view of both the trains using the Menomonee River Railroad Bridge and the passing tour and party boats. (M.J.P.) $$. FB. OD. FF. Handicap access.

Milwaukee Beer Bistro

2730 N. Humboldt Blvd. If there’s one thing most every Milwaukeean can agree on, it’s that beer is good. Add beer to food, and it makes the food even better. That’s the philosophy behind Milwaukee Beer Bistro, a pub incorporating beer into every dish on the menu. Some items, like a light ale-battered cod, are rather obvious, but others are more creative. How about chunks of bratwurst and carrot in a thick and creamy Point Special Lager chowder? This is a great destination for brunch, when Sprecher Root Beer makes an appearance in root beer pancakes and heffe weiss waffles are topped with “beerberry” syrup. Pair your meal with one of 16-plus taps and dozens of bottles available. (L.M.) $-$$. FF. SB. 562-5540

Mr. J’s

4610 W. Fond Du Lac Ave. Mr. J’s features an excellent menu and great music spun by DJs Thursday through Saturday. The okra is evenly breaded to create two different and appreciable kinds of crunches—the batter and

the vegetable. The Soul Roll is one of Milwaukee’s most unique dishes: collard greens and bacon wrapped in an egg roll wrapper and deep fried, making a juicy and outstanding appetizer. Their wings come three ways: breaded, seasoned or buffalo. I recommend the seasoned, which takes their immaculately breaded wings and adds a savory/salty seasoning. (F.K.R.C.) $. CC. FB. FF. GF. handicap accessible. 455-8779

Oak Barrel Public House

1033 N. Old World Third St. The menu includes starters, burgers and sandwiches, tacos and pizza. Burgers are quarter-pound smashed patties, including the signature burger with cheddar, Swiss, bourbon bacon, caramelized onions and garlic aioli. Tacos, which can also be ordered as bowls, are inventive, like the Nashville hot chicken and vegetarian jackfruit carnitas. (Another nod to vegetarians is the Impossible burger, a brand name patty that has become all the rage). Pizzas are made with a crispy cracker crust. True to its name, the whiskey list is long, as is the craft beer and cocktail menu. (L.M.) $$-$$$. FB. 897-8320

Oscar’s Pub & Grill

1712 W. Pierce St. Although inconspicuously tucked into an industrial district between the 16th Street Viaduct and National Avenue, Oscar’s has attracted a large lunch crowd for its deliciously prepared Angus burgers (seven varieties on the menu), served on a superb bun with fries sprinkled in grated cheese. With friendly service and the look and feel of a neighborhood bar, Oscar’s is appealing any time of day. Stop in for some conversation, and select from the two-dozen beers offered, including imports on tap. (D.L.) $-$$. FB. 810-1820

Point’s East Pub

1501 N. Jackson St. There is an entire page of the Point’s East website devoted to the various awards and honors given to their chicken wings over the years. Plump, spicy and grilled-to-order, Point’s East wings are a meal in themselves and have become one of Milwaukee’s most famous signature bar foods. A basket of these is more than enough reason to make your way to this corner bar, hidden between bustling Brady Street and the mania of Water Street. (M.J. P.) FB. 277-0122

Redbar

2245 E. St. Francis Ave. Redbar is a good-value local bar where a fun, eclectic atmosphere mixes well with great food, and beverages that won’t make your checkbook see red. The daily menu includes six different types of jumbo chicken wings. Ten sandwiches are available. Try the Redbar burger with breaded onion, the shaved Philly beef with braised onions or, on the lighter side, the grilled chicken sandwich. All are served with hand-cut fries. Redbar has tater tots served 10 different ways. Look for daily specials. (A.M.) $-$$. FB. 212-8470 3 2

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Riverwest Filling Station

701 E. Keefe Ave. Riverwest Filling Station offers up 30 taps that run the gamut across styles and breweries. Along with a wide variety of beer and spirits, Filling Station has some really fantastic food. Owner Bryan Atinsky spent more than a decade in Israel, and the influence of their cuisine is all over the menu. Try the trio of humus, babaganouj and tahina served with plenty of pita. Of course, any good corner bar that serves food should have a dope hamburger, and Filling Station meets that requirement with ease. (F.K.R.C.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 906-9000

Rock Bottom Restaurant & Brewery

740 N. Plankinton Ave. Rock Bottom’s prime location along the river makes it one of the more attractive chain restaurants Downtown (they have 30 locations nationwide). Housed in the handsome white stone River Bank Plaza building (built 1912), Rock Bottom features a spacious Riverwalk dining area adjacent to public docking space. The menu is heavy on pub food, but includes a wide selection of entrées. Rock Bottom also brews beer onsite and offers a long list of specialty cocktails. Their location offers a great spot to watch both people- and boat-watch or to check out the artists’ entrance at the nearby Riverside Theater. (M.J.P.) $$. FB. OD. 276-3030

Safe House

779 N. Front St. The name is House—Safe House. Whether you prefer your martini shaken or stirred, Safe House offers the perfect venue for your inner spy. Featuring a secret password-required entrance, a giant wall puzzle and a bevy of vintage 007 memorabilia, this restaurant has everything a secret agent, or hungry guest, could want. Additionally, the shadowy ambiance makes Safe House the perfect place for a party—or supervillain meeting. (J.C.) $$. CC. RS. FF. FB. Handicap access. 271-2007

St. Francis Brewery & Restaurant

3825 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. The brewery produces seven of its own beers, focusing on ales and named for the Seven Deadly Sins. The menu has all the appetizers necessary for beer drinkers, from spinach and artichoke dip to chicken wings and nachos. Sandwiches include burgers, pulled pork and a Reuben. Among the entrées are chicken pot pie, baby back ribs and beer-braised beef. (J.B.) $$-$$$. FB. FF. Handicap access. 744-4448

Steny’s

800 S. Second St. When folks think of the food at Steny’s, often they think of the wings—which are absolutely outstanding—but there’s an impressive menu of bar food. Case in point: the Steny Mac hamburger with lettuce, red onion, cheddar cheese, and Steny sauce (sort of like a kicked up Thousand Island).

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

The Steny sauce, in particular, has a nice pickle brightness that melds well with the meaty oomph of the half-pound patty. The Cajun Brat Burger has an Andouille sausage atop the patty, along with green and red bell peppers, caramelized onions, cheddar and a schmear of tomato bacon jam. For sides: Steny’s has some of my favorite fries in town, but the Jamaican potato salad, with jerk seasoning, is outstanding as well. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC. OD. FB. FF. handicap accessible. 672-7139

Stubby’s Gastrogrub & Beer Bar

2060 N. Humboldt Ave. There’s no doubt that the owners of Stubby’s know and love beer. Past the obvious, a beer menu featuring 53 constantly rotating taps, there’s hardly a shelf or wall that’s not adorned with a bottle of hard-to-find brew. Stubby’s food menu is fun and adventurous as well—take the Reuben, featuring shredded ham, sauerkraut and a poached egg on rye toast. The Riverwest skillet is served in a cast-iron pan and features their special tater tots scrambled with peppers, onions, pepperjack cheese and eggs. (F.K.R.C.) $$$. RS. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 763-6324

Swingin’ Door Exchange Saloon & Eatery

219 E. Michigan St. How does a Downtown bar have enough staying power to last since Prohibition? By serving up some really solid food. Swingin’ Door’s menu ranges from gumbo to barbecue ribs, and everything is quite tasty. Cod and perch are the standard here, both tossed in an irregular breadcrumb coating that creates lots of crunch when fried. When it comes to sides, stick with the homemade potato chips or the unique spicy vermouth carrots. (In fact, make sure you order a side of those carrots, no matter what.) Grab the combo fry with two pieces of cod and perch plus three pieces of shrimp if you’re really hungry. (L.M.) $$. CC. FB. FF. SB. Handicap access. 276-8150

The Tracks Tavern & Grill

1020 E. Locust St. Just east of the Humboldt and Locust interchange, Tracks Tavern & Grill is a fun and weird bar that accommodates both avid sports fans and folks just looking to grab a drink and dinner. Food wise, the Iggy Pop ($9) will fill you for days with its hefty mix of roast beef, fried onions and horseradish. Less hungry folks should go for the soft pretzel bites ($4)—12, served with queso, is a perfect late-night treat. (F.K.R.C.) $. CC. FF. OD. 562-2020

Valley Inn

4000 W. Clybourn St. A favorite among Brewers fans for its proximity to Miller Park, the Valley Inn features comfortable seating, fair prices, a reasonable beer selection and homemade pizzas. But what caught our attention was the Valley Inn’s serious selection of sandwiches. Served on a half loaf of garlic French bread, the Valley Bomber is a delightful combination of caramelized onions, green peppers, melted

DINING GUIDE mozzarella cheese and shredded beef, while the D-3 Italian chicken sandwich is a delicious take on an old favorite. Burger options are plentiful. And for those in search of something even more substantial, the Valley Inn offers chicken, shrimp and lake perch dinners served with coleslaw, rye bread and choice of potato. (E.P.) $-$$. FB

sauce. Choose your sauce at the tables. Among the options are St. Louis ribs, pulled pork and chicken and beef brisket. The Pig Trough includes samples of all the meats and serves at least five diners. The bar is a fine shopping mall refuge: a place to enjoy a few beers. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 203-0404

The Vanguard

Carson’s

2659 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. In past years, you could get a taste of The Vanguard’s sausages at Bay View Bash, and it left people hungry for more. Once the permanent location opened in November 2014, there was already a hefty following of fans, salivating for sausages. There’s a lot to choose from: The menu lists 15 sausages plus an ever-rotating list of specials offered daily. All are homemade, with smoked sausages made by Madison’s Underground Meats (since they have proper smoking equipment) to The Vanguard’s recipe. (L.M.) $. FB. 539-3593

Water Street Brewery

1101 N. Water St., 272-1195 3191 Golf Road, Delafield, 262-646-7878 2615 Washington St., Grafton, 262-375-2222 Milwaukee’s first brew pub opened on Water Street in 1987 and has expanded in the years since to Delafield and Grafton. The crowds still come for the hearty sandwiches, salads, pretzels and sausage platters. The walls are lined with Wisconsin beer memorabilia. Entrées start with salads and move upscale to barbecue ribs and rib-eye steaks. (J.B.) $$. CC. GF. FF. RS. FB. OD. LT.

The Wicked Hop

345 N. Broadway One of the noisy hubs of the Third Ward, The Wicked Hop is a comfortable corner bar making good use of its historic Cream City brick shell. Usually crowded at lunch and after work, the Hop serves quality bar food—chicken wings and wraps, burgers and melts, a pretzel platter and excellent nachos smothered in cheddar and jalapeños. On tap is a good selection of Wisconsin and imported beers. (D.L.) $. CC. FB. OD. FF. Handicap access. 223-0345

301 W. Juneau Ave. This is a new outpost of a venerated Chicago classic. Barbecue ribs and aged steaks are the specialty. The ribs are properly smoked and the meat sticks to the bone. The steaks are succulent, though red meat is not the only thing worth ordering. Grilled salmon is a fine choice, and the roasted Greek chicken qualifies as inexpensive. Do try the big crab cake, loaded with meat, not binder. Lunch is served daily. (J.B.) $$$. CC. RS. FB. V. Handicap access. 223-3311

Doc’s Commerce Smokehouse

754 N. Fourth St. Smoke. Spice. Time. Those are the three musthave ingredients to meat preparation—at least according to Brent Brashier, founder of the Doc’s Smokehouse restaurants, a growing presence in the Midwest. “We never sauce meat in the kitchen,” Brashier continues. “And while we have some great regional sauces on the table, we hope you will try the meat on its own—to taste the love and care with which it has been prepared.” (J.J.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 935-2029

Double B’s Barbecue & Burgers

BARBECUE

7420 W. Greenfield Ave No matter what barbecue you order here, it’s going to be bursting with deep smoked flavor. This is not barbecue that’s braised first and then thrown in the smoker for an hour. The smoke practically wafts from the plate to your nose. The menu is simple, with platters, sandwiches and burgers, plus a few appetizers. A half rack of ribs paired with a half smoked chicken is truly a carnivorous meal. Sauce your meat with four homemade versions: a mustard-based Carolina, a sweet and tangy Texas, a rich Kansas City and an XXX hot. (L.M.) $$. FB. 257-9150

Ashley’s Bar-B-Que

Famous Dave’s

1501 W. Center St. At Ashley’s Bar-B-Que, takeout is the only option. But with specialties not found at bigger chain restaurants, and a family ownership history that extends back to the 1960s, it’s an option worth taking. Ribs and barbecued goat are among the favorites. The sauce is so good it should be sold in bottles. (J.L.R.) $-$$. Cash Only. NA. Handicap access. 372-7666

Big Daddy’s Brew & Que

5800 N. Bayshore Drive A shopping mall is an unlikely setting for a barbecue joint, but this one works. They serve woodsmoked meats properly—usually dry with no

5077 S. 27th St., 727-1940 2137 E. Moreland Blvd., 262-522-3210 Even when they’re big cuts of meat in the smoke pit and on the grill, little things can mean a lot when it comes to barbecue. The awards case stacked in the Greenfield location of this Haywardbased chain attests to the quality of the pork spareribs, beef brisket, chopped (not pulled) pork, chicken and other animal proteins served up with a smoky tang. A variety of four sauces on every table cover much of the gamut of taste and heat preferences throughout the U.S. But those littler things, the sides, set Dave’s apart. Mac ‘n’ cheese receives a Southwestern spin by the addition

of corn and jalapeños amid the creamy pasta. Coleslaw is made spicy and sweet with both horseradish and pineapple juice. (J.L.R.) $$. CC. FB.

Mi-key’s

811 N. Jefferson St. Mi-key’s has a duel personality. It’s a restaurant for casual dining whose exposed brick and fireplace adds a warm and inviting touch. They have a wide variety of meats fresh from the smoker, burgers and sandwiches and plenty of “social bites” for sharing. When the clock strikes 10 p.m., its other personality comes out in the form of a lively “Naughty Nights” bar scene, making it a hot spot for socializing. (A.M.) $$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 273-5397

Miss Beverly’s Deluxe Barbeque

5601 Broad St., Greendale Reminiscent of a 1940s-’50s barbecue joint, Miss Beverly’s walls are decorated with posters featuring stars such as Patsy Cline and Les Paul. Miss Bev’s is primarily focused on ribs—baby back and beef—which are smoked and then infrared broiled to give them a slight char and to seal in the smoky flavor. Broasted, fried chicken, beef brisket, pulled pork and hot links are all smothered in finger-licking, house-made barbecue sauce. With every entrée, guests receive cornbread, coleslaw and choice of one side from a list that includes barbecue baked beans, potato salad, mac ‘n’ cheese and more. (A.S.) $$$-$$$$. 858-1911

slaw to cool off the tanginess (even the mild sauce packs a little wallop). For light eaters, portions are often hearty enough to suffice for two meals. Fried fish, baked beans and a few pie varieties are among the other options. (J.L.R.) $-$$. NA. Cash Only. 265-2900

BRAZILIAN Rodizio Grill

777 N. Water St. Rodizio is one of only two spots to get your fix of Brazilian style churrascaria, a feast of roasted meats. The setting remains luxurious with spacious dining areas. The full dining experience begins with it delicious cheese bread and a massive salad bar that also includes a few hot items. Then, servers dressed as gauchos bring skewers of assorted grilled meats to be carved at the table. You will find pork, sausage, beef and poultry among the many options. Bring your appetite as the fixed price is all-you-can-eat. (L.M.) $$-$$$. CC. RS. FB. V. LB. Handicap access. 431-3106

BREAKFAST/ LUNCH Blue’s Egg

13275 Watertown Plank Road The setting is country charm in the heart of Elm Grove, and the wood smoker produces some fine barbecue. Everything from the beef brisket to the St. Louis ribs has a great, wood-smoked flavor. The menu also features entrée salads, sandwiches and Tex-Mex entrées such as Southwest tacos and chicken-fried steak. Modest prices and a comfortable setting make this a very popular spot. (J.B.) $$. OD. FF. Handicap access. 262-821-1511

317 N. 76th St. The menu is expansive, well-portioned and crafted with fine ingredients. When you arrive, enjoy a cup of delicious Valentine coffee and check out the glorious pastry case (think specialty items like Linzer torte and maple-bacon sugar cookies). The regular menu features something for everyone. Calorie conscious? Try the exquisite Florentine “skinny browns” with spinach, pesto and tomato. Gluten-free? The moist, hearty house-made bread is delicious alongside eggs or as French toast. Love tender meats? The 12-hour slow cooked ham and corned beef may be the best in town. (S.M.) $. CC. FB. SB. OD. Handicap access. 299-3180

Smoke Shack

Café 1505

Silver Spur Texas Smokehouse Barbecue

332 N. Milwaukee St. Simply walking into the small, rustically designed restaurant and breathing in deeply, catching the smoky, oaky smell of slow-cooked meats, is enough to make one’s mouth water in anticipation. So much of great barbecue is about texture, and both the pulled pork and the sirloin had it in spades. The pulled pork had a wonderful melt-inyour-mouth softness and a yielding quality that is exactly what you’d expect from meat that spent more than half a day in a smoker. Like any good barbecue spot, Smoke Shack offers a variety of house-made sauces. (F.K.R.C.) $$-$$$. CC. OD. FB. GF. Handicap access. 431-1119

Speed Queen Bar-B-Q

1130 W. Walnut St. Speed Queen is a longtime Milwaukee institution. Various beef, pork and turkey cuts come in sandwiches and full dinners—all with sides of cole-

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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1505 W. Mequon Road Mequon’s Café 1505 (in East Towne Square) wears many hats, serving up many solutions for satisfying hunger and thirst: a sit-down, full-service café (open weekdays for breakfast and lunch and weekend brunch), an expansive deli and bakery and even a bar serving bottled beer and wines on tap. Café 1505 partners with high-quality Milwaukee businesses by offering Simma’s cakes, Fiddleheads bread, City Market pies and scones, Troubadour cookies, Valentine coffee and Rishi tea. (K.L.L.) $-$$. CC. SB. Handicap access. 262-241-7076

Café at the Plaza

1007 N. Cass St. Café at the Plaza (inside the Plaza Hotel) is a well-preserved architectural gem—a compact diner nestled between leaded glass doors and a courtyard open during the warm months. The floor is Spanish tile and the Grecian plaster friezes add

DINING GUIDE to the Old World elegance. The menu, however, is contemporary with items such as a breakfast burrito, chicken baguette, salmon BLT, a vegan quinoa salad and poutine—the Canadian staple belatedly becoming popular in Wisconsin but dressed up with avocado cream and chorizo sausage gravy. Old standards remain, including burgers, corned beef, club sandwiches and grilled cheese. Many ingredients are locally sourced. (D.L.) $. FB. OD. 272-0515

Cudahy’s Pancake House

4753 S. Packard Ave. South Shore residents have a new option for made-to-order pancakes, waffles and (despite the restaurant’s name) a full savory menu in a casual, family friendly setting that’s open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Generous stacks of pancakes are available in multi-grain, buckwheat and glutenfree. Customers can choose from a variety of waffles, including the popular banana split, served with strawberries, bananas and ice cream. Omelets also vary from basic to elaborate and include vegetarian options. Soups are made fresh daily. (S.J.) $. Handicap access. 509-5048.

First Watch Café

11032 N. Port Washington Road First Watch (in Mequon Pavilions Shopping Center) serves breakfast, lunch and brunch. Among the delightful offerings are fresh organic fruit crepes with house-made granola, well-seasoned and cheesy market hash, a pesto chicken quinoa bowl and many other healthful, innovative dishes with high-protein and low-fat options. Fear not, creatures of habit. First Watch plays the hits as well. Classics like the Reuben sandwich, fluffy Belgian waffle and virtual build-your-own eggs Benedict are also on tap. (K.L.L.) $. Handicap access. 262518-0028

Mimosa

9405 S. 27th St. Mimosa is Franklin’s new neighborhood brunch spot and a favorite for breakfast and lunch. The menu includes international influences as well as American classics like biscuits and gravy. Greek flavors in particular permeate the menu due to owner Apostoli Evreniadis’ childhood in Greece. A Hellene omelet is folded with sautéed baby kale, imported feta cheese, and roasted red pepper sauce for a vegetarian option. The simply named shrimp omelet boasts at least a half dozen large shrimp that are cooked with lemon, garlic, fresh tomato and onion, then tucked in a cage-free egg omelet with cheese and topped with fresh avocado slices. (L.M.) $$. 574-5132

Miss Molly’s Café & Pastry Shop

9201 W. Center St. Fine dining pastry chef Molly Sullivan chose the location because it’s only a few blocks from where she grew up. The counter service cafe serves locally sourced breakfast and lunch dishes as well as pastries homemade every day. A number of savory and sweet scones, muffins, cookies, cakes and vari-

ous desserts are available in the pastry case. For breakfast, there’s an egg and avocado panini with arugula and smoked cheddar and a daily quiche. At lunch there’s a slightly larger menu, with white bean and chicken sausage, a vegan roasted carrot and farro salad and smoked trout toast with tzatziki, radish and vinaigrette. Wine and beer is served. (L.M.) $-$$. 249-5665

Original Pancake House

2621 N. Downer Ave. OPH started as a family business built on generations of hard work and has maintained its high standards and ingredients since 1953. The OPH on Downer is no exception and is one of the city’s gems for breakfast—no matter what time of day. It’s open 7 a.m.-3 p.m., seven days a week. (A.M.) $$. Handicap Access. 431-5055

Sabrosa Café & Gallery

2316 S. Howell Ave. Chef and owner Frank Sanchez returns to Bay View for Sabrosa Café & Gallery. He previously owned Taqueria Azteca, just a few blocks from his new spot. Sabrosa serves breakfast, lunch and brunch, and doubles as an art gallery for local artists. The menu features breakfast and brunch classics with some Italian and Mexican influences. Instead of biscuits, sausage gravy is served over jalapeño cornbread. The Italiano scramble riffs on caprese salad with mozzarella, arugula and heirloom tomatoes with eggs over vegetable hash. Come lunch, options include Sanchez’s popular sopa azteca ($3-$6), sandwiches, enchiladas and tacos. (L.M.) $-$$. 834-1929

Simple Café

2124 N. Farwell Ave. This is the Milwaukee outpost of a popular Lake Geneva café that’s open for breakfast and lunch. The menu offers mostly light and healthy fare but does include a half-pound burger. Breakfast standards like buttermilk pancakes and novelties like spicy Korean pancakes are served. With lunch come sandwiches and a dreamy smoked trout salad with roasted beets and baby spinach. All ingredients are very fresh. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. RS. SB. NA. 271-2124

BRITISH Red Lion Pub

1850 N. Water St. If some Saturday morning a soccer match is broadcast internationally on the telly, Red Lion’s doors are open by 6:45 a.m., drinking is underway by 7 a.m., and the chef is fixing bangers and eggs for an early morning Match Day Menu. At 9 a.m., the full, glorious brunch menu becomes available—as it does until 3 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday. Dinner appetizers include Welsh rarebit, clam strips, mussels and a ploughman’s platter of British cheeses, Nueske’s smoked pork loin, brown bread and condiments. Fish and chips, bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, cottage pie, chicken pot pie, Cornish pastry, salmon, pot roast and Indian veggie curry are among the classic entrées. (J.S.) $-$$. FB. SB. OD. 319-9219 3 4

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Three Lions Pub

4515 N. Oakland Ave. If the accents of many of the servers and the huge British flag hanging on the wall don’t tip you off to the allegiances of this welcoming pub, Three Lions’ menu will. In addition to burgers, wings and sandwiches, it’s filled with British comfort food staples like shepherd’s pie, Scotch eggs, fish and chips and, for a rich dessert, sticky toffee pudding. Soccer fans gather here for all major games (the pub opens early for big ones), and there’s entertainment many nights of the week, including trivia, live music and karaoke. (E.R.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. 763-6992

BURGERS The Brick

6343 N. Glendale Ave. A charming gem in Glendale, The Brick offers up a variety of takes on the hamburger. As a strong believer in ordering the dish named after the restaurant (or vice versa), I suggest The Brick Burger—sporting a hand-pattied Angus beef burger, pepper jack cheese, avocado, house-made southwest ranch sauce, and a tall pile of haystack onion rings that are really satisfying to smoosh down before you unhinge your jaw to take the first bite. I was impressed by how well the burger held together given the slipperiness of avocado. A bit messier was The Hickory Burger, topped with cheese and house-made hickory sauce—sweet and smoky. Burgers come with sides aplenty, but really, I’ve never met a tater tot I didn’t like. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC, OD, FB, FF, handicap accessible, 797-0710

Crafty Cow

2675 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. A Milwaukee outpost of the Oconomowoc burger spot Crafty Cow has opened in Bay View. Located in one side of Hot Head Fried Chicken—both restaurants are owned and operated by the same team of owners—Crafty Cow specializes in Twin Citiesstyle cheese-stuffed burgers called Jucy Lucys. The original Lucy is stuffed with American cheese, or you can choose from any number of variations, like the Twice Baked stuffed with white cheddar and bacon, then topped with ranch chips, bacon sour cream and caramelized onions. A portion of the menu dubbed The Great Milwaukee Project features collaboration burgers between local businesses and restaurants with proceeds going to local charities. (L.M.) $-$$. 808-0481

Crave Café

3592 N. Oakland Ave. Crave Café, a small takeout spot focusing on international burgers with influences from around the globe. A Korean barbecue burger is glazed in a sweet barbecue sauce and topped with American cheese, kimchi and cabbage slaw, while the signature Crave burger comes with Swiss, arugula, caramelized onions and truffle aioli. As with all burger restaurants, fries are important here, and

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

you can get them with your choice of four different seasonings including Cajun and cheddar. (L.M.) $. 204-8778

Cudahy Burger Joint

4905 S. Packard Ave. At Cudahy Burger Joint, one can savor burgers made from hormone-free ground chuck with fun names like Blues Man, topped with bleu cheese, bacon, an onion ring and whiskey barbecue sauce; or Macho Nacho, featuring a blend of Swiss and cheddar, tortilla strips, jalapeños, tomato, onion and chipotle mayonnaise. Burgers are served with a generous portion of lightly seasoned fries. For $2 extra, vegetarians can substitute a house-made black bean patty. Chicago style hot dogs, fish and chicken sandwiches, salads, tater tots, poutine, cheese curds, malts and shakes round out the broad menu. (S.J.) $. 585-0066

Fatty Patty

222 E. Juneau Ave. One of the many food trucks to pop up in Milwaukee recently, Fatty Patty distinguishes itself from the pack by offering some of the most fresh-tasting, excellent hamburgers one can find in the city. Their Ring of Fire ($6.49), which features a house-made beef patty, jalapeños, Swiss cheese, sriracha mayo, an onion ring and lettuce, has just enough piquancy to give it some zip, but is grounded by the beefiness of the patty, the crunch and vibrancy of the lettuce (no really—the lettuce made the burger better and was thoughtfully incorporated, not just treated as an afterthought!) and the sweetness of the bun. The Fatty Patty burger ($8.99) has too many ingredients to list in the space, but trust me that it’s an incredibly filling and tasty sandwich that’s worthy of naming a truck after. Fatty Patty also offers some excellent gyros and has two vegan veggie burgers, one of which—The Fryer Buyer ($5.99) is piled high with fried veggies. (F.K.R.C.) $. CC. Handicap access. 522-1133

Jake’s Burger

18905 W. Capitol Drive Jake’s occupies the former site of Haute Taco in Brookfield. Burgers now rule the joint but are not limited to beef. Try the tuna Nicoise, crispy cod or portabella mushroom burgers. The house specialty combines short ribs, brisket and sirloin. Burger making is taken seriously here. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB. OD. RS. Handicap access. 262-781-1110

Ka-Bob’s Bistro

6807 W. Beecher St. Grilled pineapple or rice with that burger? It’s two of the most unusual sides in town, offered by Ka-Bob’s along with the expected French fries or chips. And they both taste great. A bright and lively venue in West Allis, Ka-Bob’s serves an array of kabobs and “handhelds” but check out the hamburgers. Wednesday is “Build a Burger” day, yet the daily menu includes several unique burgers built around handmade patties. The Allis Chalmer is a messy masterpiece with smoked beef brisket, arugula, caramelized onions, mushrooms and a

DINING GUIDE

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melted slab of horseradish cheddar topping that patty and spilling out of the toasted bun. (D.L.) CC. FB. FF. OD. 588-8020

a buttery richness that Paula Deen would surely love. (J.B.) $. CC. FF. Handicap access. 332-8808

Mazos

170 S. First St. Stack’d bills itself as a burger bar but the feel is more like a lounge in a setting of Rust Belt chic. Burgers are the specialty; a decent mac ‘n’ cheese is another option. Some appetizers arrive in tall stacks, like the loaded fries and the great, thick-cut onion rings. This is a nice setting for a glass of wine or one of the well-chosen beers. There are also milkshakes available. Try a chocolate truffle— alcohol-free or spiked. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. OD. GF. FB. Handicap access. 273-7800

3146 S. 27th St. In business since 1934, Mazos has the look of an old-school big city lunch spot with its counter, tables and walls covered with pictures of old-time show biz celebrities. Although they serve a good Reuben, a BLT and a grilled cheese sandwich, Mazos is chiefly known for its selection of some 10 burgers made from meat ground daily. Ample and flavorful, the burgers are served with American or crinkle-cut French fries and a choice of one other side. How many trendy restaurants offer baked beans, applesauce, cottage cheese or chicken soup along with their burgers? Mazos beats any trendy newcomer hands down. (D.L.) $. CC. 671-2118

The Ruckus

4144 N. Oakland Ave. The owners of Colectivo Coffee are branching out: They’ve opened The Ruckus, a burger, ice cream and churro spot in Shorewood. Burgers are quarter-pound and come with a variety of toppings, from the signature Ruckus burger with pork chorizo mixed right into the patty and topped with bacon, grilled pineapple and salsa, to the tamer Classic burger with cheddar, veggies, ketchup and mustard. Beside burgers, a couple of hot dogs and sides round out the menu. For dessert, freshly fried churros and various ice cream creations, like shakes and “Saturdaes” (their name for sundaes) are a sweet ending to a meal. (L.M.) $-$$. OD. 810-9559

Sobelmans

Stack’d

CAJUN

Saturday, June 30th

Crawdaddy’s

9427 W. Greenfield Ave. Crawdaddy’s takes you to the Big Easy with both Cajun and Creole cuisine and plenty of seafood and steaks. The red walls and exposed brick wall show off the jazzy artwork and the saxophones hanging in the dining room create a joie de vivre atmosphere. Jazz music creates a level of excitement for the cuisine and the long bar that serves up some great craft cocktails and old favorites like the Hurricane start the evening off in NOLA style. The revamped Crawdaddy’s has a nice waiting area for sipping your drink in style and enjoying the Southern hospitality. As soon as the server scribbles her name on the table, you know you are in for a fun-filled evening and dining experience well worth the wait. (A.M.) $$. FB. 778-2228

1900 W. St. Paul Ave., 931-1919 1601 W. Wells St., 933-1601 10352 N. Port Washington Road, Mequon, 262-236-9889 332 Williams St., Waukesha, 262408-2320 1872 State Highway 175, Richfield, 262-623-6770 Sobelmans serves some of the best burgers in town, at least in part on account of a good bakery. The one-third pounder, cooked on an open grill, is a fine accessory for a beer, a shot or even a cocktail. The original Sobelmans (St. Paul Avenue location) is a great place to get lost on the way to Potawatomi Hotel and Casino. The Marquette (Wells Street) venue is popular with students. They’ve continued to expand in recent years, having now opened three suburban locations. (D.L.) $. CC. FF. FB. OD.

Maxie’s

Solly’s Grille

On the Bayou

4629 N. Port Washington Road There are a few local spots that are famed for their hamburgers. One of the oldest is Solly’s Grille, in business since 1936. The interior is a classic lunch counter in the shape of a double horseshoe. The burgers are 100% sirloin, but that is not the only key to a Solly’s burger. They are prepared with a lot of butter. Try the Double Solly, which is a bit bigger with a one-third-pound patty. These burgers have

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6732 W. Fairview Ave. Most people think of Maxie’s as a Cajun restaurant, but they consider themselves a Southern restaurant and have expanded their barbecue offerings. Unlike most barbecue spots, you can get various different regional styles of barbecue here, from eastern North Carolina to Kansas City. Pulled pork is my favorite here, with its tangy, vinegar-based NC sauce and baked beans. Ribs come in Memphis and St. Louis style and brisket comes with Kansas City-style sauce. They’ve got some of the best BBQ sides here, like corn and arugula salad with buttermilk dressing, red beans and rice and maplebraised collard greens. The cornbread is of the sweet variety, so while it may make Southerners squirm, it’s amazing spread with the accompanying orange honey butter. (L.M.) $$-$$$. CC. RS. FB. FF. Handicap access. 292-3969 2053 N. Martin Luther King Drive A new Southern and Cajun restaurant is open in the Bronzeville neighborhood just north of Downtown. On the Bayou specializes in Cajun and Creole seafood and other Southern favorites in a festive, New Orleans-themed atmosphere. Entrées include blackened catfish with garlic butter, andouille grits and sautéed kale, fried chicken marinated in garlic and rosemary, and

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2930 N. 117th St. Wauwatosa | (414)235-9220

AUTHENTIC INDIAN FOOD COOKED IN A CHARCOAL CLAY OVEN Open daily: 11:30am-3pm | 5pm-10:30pm indiagardenwauwatosa.net

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

IndiaGardenmke 3 5

India Garden

IndiaGardenmke

DINING GUIDE seafood gumbo with crab meat, shrimp, chicken and andouille. Brunch is available on Sunday with entrées like deep fried Cajun fish and shrimp and grits, and all come with salad and dessert bar. (L.M.) $$-$$$. SB. 509-8932

CHINESE China Gourmet

117 E. Wells St. China Gourmet is a Downtown mainstay and a great go-to place for those with theater plans. They’re right across the street from The Rep and the Pabst Theater, only one block south of the Marcus Center and abutting Off the Wall Theatre. What’s more, they offer a “Show-Goer Special” if you present them with your evening’s tickets. In addition to a lunch buffet and Sunday brunch— and unlike many Chinese restaurants—China Gourmet also has dinner buffets on all Friday and Saturday evenings. (J.J.) $$. CC. FB. LB. SB. Handicap access. 272-1688

Chinese Pagoda

7200 W. North Ave. For more than 50 years, the Chinese Pagoda has been serving up solid Cantonese fare. Bright green booths and dark paneled walls are what you’d expect to see in such a long-standing, traditional operation. A full menu is available, but the lunch or dinner buffet is popular with the clientele and one of the best deals in town. The broccoli and beef, General Tso’s chicken and fresh, crispy, Canton fried chicken are standouts. Service is pleasant and attentive. (S.H.G.) $-$$. CC. FB. FF. RS. Handicap access. 774-8400

DanDan

360 E. Erie St. DanDan is named after not only for a Chinese noodle dish but the two extraordinary chefs, Dan Jacobs and Dan Van Rite, who have poured their heart and soul (along with an homage to food from childhood memories) into an exciting menu. Located in the building that once housed Tulip, it has a fun new vibe with a dragon on the wall, a pergola along the hallway and the illuminated DanDan sign (in Chinese) that makes the red walls glow like warm embers. It’s all reminiscent of walking down a street in Chinatown. (A.M.) 488-8036

East Garden

3600 N. Oakland Ave. Dark and old-fashioned, East Garden’s dining room is a bit of an afterthought since so many patrons of this Shorewood institution opt for delivery or takeout, though those who do dine in will be greeted by fast, friendly service. Whether you eat it there or take it to go, the food is fresher and less greasy than most Chinese American restaurants, and the menu hides some truly unexpected vegetarian options, including a meaty, sesame chicken-style tofu dish like little else found at other area Chinese restaurants. (E.R.) $$. CC. RS. FB. 962-7460

Emperor of China

1010 E. Brady St. A perennial favorite in Shepherd Express readers’ polls, Emperor of China has been a standout since the day it opened. The interior resembles an Oriental Deco grotto with textured walls, low ceiling and an elegant arrangement of Oriental artifacts. Soft Chinese music plays in the background. Service is prompt and friendly, and the food is freshened with good ingredients. Portions are generous and modestly priced. (D.L.) $$. CC. RS. FB. Handicap access. 271-8889

Fortune Chinese Restaurant

2945 S. 108th St., 328-9890 5512 S. 108th St., 529-9988 Fortune Chinese Restaurant is a rare bird: A Chinese restaurant with real Chinese dishes, not just those ubiquitous and ultimately uninteresting Chinese-American staples to be found elsewhere. Indeed, they have a totally separate menu dedicated to the real McCoy, and I can’t emphasize it strongly enough that this is the menu to choose for your repast. Here you’ll find such as jellyfish, essence of fish soup with diced chicken, deep-fried pork intestines, sautéed and sliced squid, preserved mustard pickles and pork noodle soup and a Buddhist-style vegetable stew. (J.J.) $$-$$$. CC.

Huan Xi

2428 N. Murray Ave. Those with especially hearty appetite opt for the hot pot, available a la carte or buffet style. That steamy, piping receptacle can come filled with any of 25 different vegetables, nine varieties of soup, 12 sorts of meat (six of them pork) and multiple types of meatballs, tofu, mushrooms, seafood and noodles. Entrées explore flavors, textures and ingredients few Asian eateries in Milwaukee offer. Diners can also find many familiar soups, sweet and sour offerings, shrimp, beef, chicken, roast pork and vegetarian main courses. (J.L.R.) $-$$. NA. 906-8888

Jing’s

207 E. Buffalo St., Suite 101 A busy Downtown spot for carryout and sit-down lunches, Jing’s features a Chinese American buffet with few surprises in its selection of pork-fried rice, egg drop soup and crab Rangoon—think Asian comfort food. The flavors are distinct, and ordering from the menu has gained in popularity. The setting is modern and elegant with an exposed brick outer wall and pastel plaster minimally adorned with framed calligraphy. Jing’s also has a Special Menu with traditional Shanghai fare. (D.L.) $$. CC. LB. Handicap access. 271-7788

Lucky Liu’s

1664 N. Van Buren St. Are you torn between an order of Kung Pao shrimp and a California roll? Then Lucky Liu’s is the place for you—the menu’s half Japanese and half Chinese. They also offer delivery of the entire menu (have their fire dragon maki roll at home). The Japanese side is mainly sushi and sashimi. The Chinese is more extensive, with a fine ma po tofu 3 6

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and bacon pan-fried shrimp made with a skillful dark sauce. Prices are on the low end, especially for lunch. Everything is prepared to order. (J.B.) $-$$ CC. Handicap access. 223-1699

Peking Chef

8673 N. Port Washington Road Judge a book by its cover, and you might miss out on some of the best dishes at Peking Chef. If you stick to the Chinese-American food that the restaurant’s name implies, you’ll eschew the best section of the menu: Indonesian cuisine. This small family-run spot in Fox Point is the only restaurant specializing in Indonesian cooking in the area. It’s well worth the trip up I-43 to experience food you’ve never had before, plus high-quality versions of some of your favorite Thai and ChineseAmerican dishes. (L.M.) $$. 228-8222

Peking House

782 N. Jefferson St. The first thing lunchtime visitors will notice at Peking House is a lunch buffet. Those that request a menu will find that, at first, it looks just like every other Chinese menu in town, with moo goo gai pan and wonton soup leading the pack. It does get as “exotic” as Kung Pao chicken, potstickers and lettuce wraps, but turn a few pages to find the House Specials. This is where you’ll find traditional dishes from Sichuan. Here are pig ears, jellyfish, pig intestines and pork hocks—along with many more accessible ingredients. (J.B.) $-$$. LB. FB. CC. Handicap access. 763-9378

Peony

11120 W. Bluemound Road Peony is the place for good, old-fashioned Chinese American food in Wauwatosa, offering a wide variety of dishes and dim sum seven days a week. They offer online ordering and delivery within a five-mile radius; Peony offers traditional Cantonese, Szechwan, Hunan and Mandarin entrées, appetizers, salads and seafood. Their dim sum is a specialty here and is not to be missed— sticky rice and chicken ensconced in lotus leaves, ha gao, char sui bao, stuffed eggplant and sui mai are stand-outs. (J.J.) $-$$. CC. OD. FB. Handicap access. 443-6455

P.F. Chang’s China Bistro

2500 N. Mayfair Road Yes, it’s a chain and yes, it’s in a shopping mall (Mayfair), but P.F. Chang is a really good restaurant for Chinese and Asian fusion cuisine in a gorgeous, high-energy setting and with a modern, inventive twist. Here you’ll find lettuce wraps and street tacos; of the latter, there’s Jicama—either with wild-caught lobster, shrimp, red onion and Fresno peppers or Kung Pao chicken, crushed peanuts and cool cucumber slices. Virtually every menu item excites the eye and palate, and all are generously portioned and nicely presented. Hunan dragon wings, cauliflower tempura, edamame, banana spring rolls... great place for something a tad different. Look for the big stone horses! (J.J.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 607-1029

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Sze Chuan

11102 W. National Ave. Owners Sun Yin and Luo Shungui are both from China’s Sichuan. The full-service restaurant joins a strip mall that also houses a Chinese grocer and bakery, making it a destination for Chinese in the city. The menu is large and spans from ChineseAmerican favorites like crab rangoon to more traditional dishes like map tofu with ground pork. Dry pot and stone pot dishes, which encompass stews and stir fries, include duck wing dry pot and squid dry pot. Cumin pork knuckle and fish in chili bean sauce can be found on the Sichuan special section of the menu. A full menu of meats such as homemade beef meatballs, seafood and vegetables can be ordered to cook in the boiling broth at the table. The flavor of the broth changes throughout the meal as diners add more items. (L.M.) $$. 885-0856

William Ho

3524 N. Oakland Ave. This longstanding Shorewood restaurant serves quintessential Chinese-American food but stands out for its specialties: a bargain lunch buffet, inspired vegetarian options (which include orange-chicken-style tofu and a tofu casserole) and particularly its seafood menu. Fresh lobster and crab are served steamed or stir-fried (and at generous prices), and the shrimp is plump and well-prepared. Even with its colorful Chinese decorations, William Ho’s dining room is a little dark and dusty, so many regulars opt for takeout or delivery. (E.R.) $. CC. LB. RS. FB. 963-9781

COFFEE HOUSES & BAKERIES Amaranth Bakery & Café

3329 W. Lisbon Ave. Amaranth Bakery is everything that a bakery should be, with the charming feel of an old friend who happens to be an exceptional baker. Amaranth has been around since 2006, has built up a word-of-mouth buzz, created some loyal brand-ambassadors and is more focused on producing high-quality bakery items with organic and fair-trade ingredients than establishing market ubiquity. It’s a gem waiting to be discovered. (E.E.) $. CC. 934-0587

Anodyne Coffee Roasters

2920 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 489-0765 224 W. Bruce St., 276-8081 7471 Harwood Ave., 930-0469 400 N. Water St., 489-0765 Big, sunny windows bring light into the cleanly designed interior of this coffeemaker-cum-coffee shop. A wide variety of tea is also on tap along with bagels and other bakery. The low hum of the coffee grinders doesn’t disturb the relaxed, conversational ambience. (D.L.) $. CC. Handicap access.

DINING GUIDE Bella Caffe

189 N. Milwaukee St. Coffee of all kinds, tea and cider, bakery and sundaes, sandwiches and salads: Bella Caffe has many of the usual coffeehouse flavors. It’s also one of Milwaukee’s (and Brookfield’s) most attractive coffee shops. Bella’s high-fashion tables, chairs and comfortable seating areas, and its futuristic lighting fixtures are retro futurism at its finest; a gem of urban design. (D.L.) $. CC. 273-5620

Brewed Café

1208 E. Brady St. This Historic Brady Street attraction’s bright purple façade is hard to miss. The interior—also vibrant, furnished with comfortable recycled chairs and festooned with tinsel, stained glass, beads and local artists’ work—is hardly less eye-catching. As for the menu, expect hearty, healthy fare, including sandwiches, wraps, burritos, flatbread pizza, soups and salads. The coffee run-down is respectable with tasty seasonal selections. Hip and centrally located, Brewed Café is the perfect place to study, socialize or simply take in the appetizing sights and smells. (S.M.) $. CC (Visa, MasterCard). OD. 276-2739

City Market

2205 E. Capitol Drive, 962-0100 8700 W. Watertown Plank Road, 479-0479 527 E. Silver Spring Drive, 332-0300 City Market’s locations are bustling places humming with conversation. The coffee-sandwich shops serve Stone Creek along with a variety of tastefully composed breakfast and lunch specials, salads and pasta dishes. An array of delectable baked goods and desserts are on display. (J.B.) $. CC. NA. Handicap access.

City.Net Café

306 E. Wisconsin Ave. With a mirrored wall, portraits of jazz greats and a wide gamut of jazzy sounds coursing through its cozy confines, City.Net Café has a cosmopolitan, yet comfy take on a breakfast-lunch nook and coffee house. City.Net relies on a unique menu and the ability to prepare their several single-source and blended bean java varieties via their own in-house Abyssinia Coffee Roasters. Among their samiche (not sandwich) creations is a satisfying salmon and egg Panini, its fillings dusted with dried basil and served with a side of sweet syrup for dipping. Swap tomato for the egg, and it becomes a lunch item. Daily soups selections and specials such as rice and beans also figure into the midday fare. (J.L.R.) $. 336-1723

Colectivo Coffee Roasters

170 S. First St., 765-9873 223 E. St. Paul Ave., 220-8330 777 E. Wisconsin Ave., U.S. Bank Building, 225-8970 1211 Washington St., Grafton, 262-377-5183 1701 N. Lincoln Memorial Drive, 223-4551 2211 N. Prospect Ave., 273-3753 2301 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 744-6117 2999 N. Humboldt Blvd., 292-3320 4500 N. Oakland Ave., 312-8295 5735 N. Bayshore Drive, Bayshore Town Center, 967-5754 6745 W. Wells St., 453-4800 9125 W. North Ave., Suite 101, 259-7948 11205 Cedarburg Road, Mequon, 262-302-4051 Formerly known as Alterra, Colectivo has become a local empire rivaling Starbucks in our area. Their brands of coffee are sold in stores and served in restaurants with success following wherever they open an outlet. Serving coffees, smoothies and signature drinks, Colectivo’s rustic-meets-industrial interiors make it a perfect place to curl up with a paper or a laptop. A mix of herbal teas completes Colectivo’s drink list; bakery and sandwiches are served. (D.L.) $. CC. OD. Handicap access.

Cranky Al’s

6901 W. North Ave. The “cranky” in Cranky Al’s doesn’t refer to the customers that find the place closed during normal business hours—not only is Al shut down on Monday; it’s closed from noon-4 p.m. TuesdaySunday—but to the “hand-cranked” donuts that are the coffeehouse’s signature. The donuts have a deliciously lighter texture than the factoryproduced competition, and they aren’t the only good thing on the menu of bakery, sandwiches and salads. Wednesday-Saturday from 4-8 p.m., Al cranks out homemade pizza with an array of toppings—everything from pineapple to anchovies. (D.L.) $-$$. 258-5282

Fuel Café

818 E. Center St. For hellacious menu spice, try the homemade vegan chili, or maybe the Garden of Eatin’ sandwich slathered with jalapeño cream cheese. The bottom line and the starting line here is motorcycle racing. Trippy motorcycle cartoons adorn the booth seats. The ‘zines on the rack range from Maximum Rock ‘n’ Roll to Classic Bike, and dirt bike racing photos cover the walls. Here’s where Harley culture comes to chill with its hippie hangovers. (K.L.) $. CC. Handicap access. 374-3835

Fuel Café

630 S. Fifth St. Anybody entering the new Fuel Café at expecting a recreation of the grimy ambiance of the Riverwest original is in for a case of the bends. It’s a spacious

bar and restaurant with an ultra-modern design akin to Fuel’s sister Bel Air Cantina restaurants. The menu, overseen by Bel Air chef Noe Zamora, is fresher and greener than most comfort food in its price range. Rather than fries, the default side for all sandwiches is a mound of salad made from, among many other ingredients, kale, endive, Brussels sprout leaves and a light mustard vinaigrette. A wall lists 15 craft beers on tap, and a selection of wines. (E.R.) $-$$. CC. Handicap access. 847-9580

Hi-Fi Café

2640 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Brightly decorated and inviting, this decidedly retro coffee shop in the Bay View neighborhood serves up hefty sandwiches in addition to organic, fair-trade coffee drinks, malts and baked goods. Vegetarians are particularly well served by a menu that offers veggie chili, falafel pitas, garden burgers and several other cheese and vegetable sandwiches (including a humus pita and a provolone muffalata with olive pepper salad). Breakfast options, such as omelets, eggs Benedict and a loaded breakfast burrito, are served until noon on weekdays and 1 p.m. on weekends. (E.R.) $. Cash Only. SB. OD. 486-0504

The Hudson

310 E. Buffalo St. It’s an airy and pleasant place: The tall windows at Hudson reach 15 feet toward the ceiling, filling the “coffee wine bar” with more than enough light to sustain the potted plants on every table. But there’s more to be had than coffee and wine at the industrial chic corner in the Third Ward. Hudson also serves breakfast, sandwiches, salads and from-scratch soups. The Wake-n-Bake exemplifies the café’s approach to food: a nicely presented vegetarian omelet served with fruit and hearty Italian toast. Sandwiches and salads are ample and full of fresh and often interesting pairings of ingredients. Hudson is unique in the neighborhood for its attractively designed business lounge with work stations and office space. (D.L.) CC. FB. OD. 220-9460

Java Train

4825 N. 132nd St., Butler Java Train is a comfortable community hangout as well as a coffee and sandwich shop. The home cooking is reason to drive a little out of your way, especially the delicious daily soup specials and sandwiches like the ones mom made. (D.L.) $. CC. OD. 262-781-9555

La Finca Coffee House

3558 E. Sivyer Ave., St. Francis La Finca serves a Mexican-inspired menu of coffee drinks, hot food and bakery. The building is just off of Lake Drive and faces Lake Michigan, providing an aesthetic view. Inside, the cocoa-toned walls, wood tables and soothing world sounds from the stereo give a warm yet sophisticated ambiance. (S.J.) $-$$. CC. Handicap access. 394-0722

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The National

839 W. National Ave. The National has gained a cult following based on Chef Nell Benton’s innovative and inspired culinary style. The menu is an eclectic mix as it’s one of the few places where you can order inventive breakfast dishes, tonkotsu ramen (Benton actually had a ramen cookbook published in 2015), or delectable hot and cold sandwiches with high-quality proteins paired with complementary flavors that pop. Keep in mind that seating at The National is limited, and it tends to attract a crowd of culinary connoisseurs during brunch time on weekends. (E.E.) $. CC. 431-6551

Rochambo Coffee & Tea House

1317 E. Brady St. With its funky bohemian atmosphere, secondstory mezzanine and unique collection of art posters from the 1960s and ‘70s, Rochambo’s ambiance stands out among local coffee shops. Wine and a small sandwich menu round out the list of coffee and tea. Recent additions include a specialty drinks such as a latte made with raw local honey and an iced coffee-rumchata combo. (D.L.) $. CC. 291-0095

Rocket Baby Bakery

6822 W. North Ave. The interior has the classic feel of an early 20thcentury bakery with tile floors, marble counters and wooden ceilings. The front window includes a display of European-style bread baked onsite. The bakery also serves as a café and offers locally roasted Anodyne coffee. Choose from croissants, scones or a cookie for a snack. Rocket Baby now has a Satellite shop in Bay View, as well. (J.B.) $. 502-7323

Sherman Perk Coffee Shop

4924 W. Roosevelt Drive Sherman Perk Coffee Shop would make a great setting for a sitcom. There’s always unique activity in the quirky little community hub, whether it be live music, their Saturday specialty omelets or (during the season) Sunday Packers parties. Though it’s a bit off the beaten path, it has a unique charm that makes it worth a trip. (E.E.) $. CC. OD. 875-7375

600 East Café

600 E. Wisconsin Ave. 600 East Café is an attractively rehabbed space. It has wooden floors, exposed brick outer walls, an open-beamed ceiling and a short list of sandwiches, salads and wraps along with daily specials and a changing contingent of soups. The cheese melt is a classic on toast updated with mozzarella and provolone along with old-school cheddar. Twists on such favorites include a Caprese melt with mozzarella, Roma tomatoes and basil on a ciabatta roll. Bakery and coffee from various local vendors is served. 600 East Café is open weekdays 6:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Eat in or carry out. (D.L.) $. 224-6594

DINING GUIDE Stone Creek Coffee

158 S. Barclay St., Radio Milwaukee, 270-0028 275 W. Wisconsin Ave., Grand Avenue Skywalk, 298-9965 422 N. Fifth St., 270-1008 601 E. Silver Spring Drive, 332-2285 1043 E. Summit Ave., Oconomowoc, 262-569-7375 2266 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 481-4215 2744 Hillside Drive, Delafield, 262-646-2241 4106 N. Oakland Ave., 964-1608 6969 N. Port Washington Road, 228-8699 8340 W. Bluemound Road, 443-1302 7954 Harwood Ave., 204-8390 One of several area locations, Stone Creek’s remodeled Factory Store is perfect for a studious nosh or coffee with friends. This spacious, Cream City-brick establishment boasts two levels, a fireplace and a rentable conference room. Approximately 20 blend and single-origin coffees are available. The Milwaukee Blend is a smooth standard with great body. A respectable array of barista drinks and Rishi teas are offered and available snackage includes freshly made pastries, yogurt and fruit. (S.M.) $. CC. NA. Handicap access.

Sven’s European Café

2699 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 483-2233 Sven’s has done Herculean work to make the interior of the Bay View venue resemble an Amsterdam café, complete with long benches, wooden furniture and a nook with fireplace. Along with an array of tea and coffee drinks and scrumptious bakery, Sven’s offers a hearty sandwich-salad menu with such Euro-inspired options as the Bastille (turkey sandwich), the Autobahn (ham), the Parthenon (Greek salad) and the Coliseum (Caesar). Opens early for breakfast. (D.L.) $. CC. OD.

CONTEMPORARY Ardent

1751 N. Farwell Ave. Ardent works like this: a tasting menu is set for each seating. What you get varies based on what’s available seasonally and from local farms. When you roll into Ardent, all you know is you’re going to get full-on tasty food. I suggest, when you eat there, that you go for it and choose the pairing menu, in which a beverage (beer, wine or champagne in my experience) is tied with each dish. Although the food is killer, the pairings, which heavily skewed French and were all tasty, did complement and converse with the dishes in ways that gave them an extra dimension. (F.K.R.C.) $$$. CC. FB. 897-7022

Bacchus

925 E. Wells St. Bacchus is an expensive place that has it all: a setting overlooking Lake Park, a spacious and luxurious interior, an innovative contemporary American menu and fine service to match. The small touches, like flatware being replaced at every course, justify the expense. Dinner entrées include a selection of steaks, other meats and seafood. This is a very worthy restaurant in a setting it deserves. (J.B.) $$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 765-1166

Balzac

1617 N. Arlington Place Kind women run this place with grace and good humor. If you don’t know wines, enjoy a word with the knowing staff; they’ll bring you something you’ll love and can afford. The chef is also excellent. The small plate menu offers unique treats beautifully presented, made with healthful, scrumptious ingredients. Many quiet and often romantic happy hour conversations are held here. Seating arrangements, lighting and acoustics help us focus and communicate. As do drinks. (J.S.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 755-0099

Beerline Café

2076 N. Commerce St. If you’re looking for a café with integrity where the food is good, the price reasonable and the atmosphere simple, relaxed and relaxing, the Beerline Café is entirely worth the hunt. This all-vegetarian restaurant, open mornings through evenings seven days a week, is named for its neighborhood where a railroad spur called the Beerline B once carried supplies along the Milwaukee River to the city’s historic breweries. Crepes, savory or sweet, are the specialty; and the café’s unique crepe variant, the cromelette, an omelet made on the crepe maker with a variety of carefully prepared and creative fillings. (J.S.) $-$$. OD. GF. 265-5644

Birch + Butcher

459 E. Pleasant St. Birch + Butcher has managed to perfectly marry contemporary and primitive styles in both décor and food. It is “live fire” cooking at its finest; bringing classic dishes to the forefront with modern translation, using many techniques combined with the wood fire cooking. . The dinner menu has many shareable items and is designed for family style dining and tasting. One would expect Birch + Butcher to be heavy on the meat, but we found so many items under the side dish category with vegetables, grains and seeds that Birch + Butcher could be considered a destination where vegetarians can enjoy a hearty and creative meal. (A.M.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. SB. RS. GF. Handicap access. 323-7372

Bowls

207 W. Freshwater Way The aptly named Bowls, a fast-casual restaurant in Walker’s Point, has an entire menu dedicated to smoothie bowls, grain and green bowls and even soup. Cuisines of the world are represented among 10 different grain bowls. Other creative grain bowl 3 8

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choices include the Mediterranean Tuna Bowl, with seared Ahi tuna, tomatoes, olives, fingerling potatoes, greens and goat cheese, topped with cilantro lime dressing; the Teriyaki Bowl, featuring rice, marinated tofu, pineapple, broccoli, red peppers, mushrooms, scallions and cilantro. (S.J.) $-$$. CC. GF. Handicap access. 800-5667

Braise

1101 S. Second St. Braise combines a cooking school with a restaurant. The chef-owner—active in the locally sourced ingredient movement—has put together a frequently changing menu with exceptional results. The restaurant has a rustic front bar and a dining room dominated with two communal tables constructed from the wood of bowling alleys formerly housed in the building. The menu changes daily due to the availability of the freshest ingredients. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 212-8843

Café Calatrava

700 N. Art Museum Drive Café Calatrava on the museum’s lower level serves lunch and Sunday brunch and is a destination dining spot whether you are visiting the museum or just want an outstanding meal. The menu offers a variety of options from light bites like the beetroot salad with soft egg to the heartier shrimp fettuccine or the grass fed burger. The menu isn’t massive, but includes many vegetarian and gluten-free items. If you need a break in between taking in the artwork, try one of the house prepared desserts as a delightful little pick me up or enjoy their Sunday brunch while taking in the breathtaking view and people watching. The menu changes often and is seasonal, using many locally sourced ingredients. (A.M.) $$. GF. SB. Handicap access. 224-3831

Company Brewing

735 E. Center St. This Riverwest establishment came out of the gate swinging, featuring excellent food and a wide variety of beer, wine and tap cocktails. Company offers appetizers and around 15 dishes in vegetable, meat, fish and sandwich categories. Try the Company Burger topped with Le Cabrie cheese and caramelized onions and served on an English muffin. Their best beer is Riverwest Backyard Hops Pale Ale, brewed exclusively with hops grown in the backyards of Riverwesters. Look for its return in summer 2016. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. FB. Handicap access. 930-0909

Cooper’s Hawk Winery & Restaurants

15 S. Moorland Road Entered from the Brookfield Square parking lot, Cooper’s Hawk is both a compact wine shop and an expansive restaurant whose interior suggests a winery in the San Fernando Valley. The menu hits all major food groups, with burgers and sandwiches, soups and salads, and entrées of chicken, fish and beef. Contemporary touches, such as garlic mayo and braised tuna tacos, abound. Service is friendly and efficient at this local venue

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

of a growing national chain. Wine, of course, is the recommended beverage. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. OD. RS. Handicap access. 262-785-9463

Easy Tyger

1230 E. Brady St. You’re put at ease immediately by the simplicity of the foyer, the sofa and stuffed chairs, the homey kitchen counter and the pleasant manner of the staff. It’s like you’ve been invited to a friend’s house for dinner but that friend is a culinary genius who delights in concocting fun dishes inspired by international street food. Easy Tyger dishes are more than imaginative. They’re nutritionally sound, as locally sourced and fresh as possible, using only essential ingredients, fearlessly seasoned. Seasonal changes in fruits and veggies mean changes in protein ingredients. Seafood has seasons, too, if it’s to be fresh. Dishes change every few weeks. (J.S.) $$-$$$. FB. SB. OD. 226-6640

Elsa’s on the Park

833 N. Jefferson St. After more than 30 years in the same Downtown spot, Elsa’s classic, never-out-of-fashion look has endured. Patrons are met with a warm ambiance despite the cold hard surfaces of terrazzo floors and marble-topped tables. The menu is simple yet delicious. Tempting deserts are displayed on the menu’s first page, with the bold declaration: “Life is short. Order desert first.” What follows are unique takes on American comfort food, such as the Greek maiden burger marinated in white wine and topped with feta cheese and black olives. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. FF. LT. Handicap access. 765-0615

Firefly Urban Bar & Grill

7754 Harwood Ave. The plates range from small to large. Start with crab cakes, calamari or mushroom risotto lollipops and move on to black truffle flatbread, grilled tenderloin or something spicy like jalapeño and Parmesan pork chops. The Firefly is a great setting for a relaxing evening. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 431-1444

Hi Hat Lounge/The Garage

1701 N. Arlington Place Alike in originality, contrasting in atmosphere, the conjoined pubs offer affordable, high-quality comfort food daily until midnight. Classic and innovative craft cocktails made with fresh ingredients and a good selection of beers are served in both rooms. The low-key elegance of the architecturally stunning Lounge facilitates conversation, and the handmade conservationist décor of The Garage is a pleasant conversation topic. Every demographic is welcome at this popular Brady Street landmark with occasional live jazz and The Garage’s big screen TV. (J.S.) $$. CC. FB. FF. OD. SB. LT. 220-8090

Juniper61

6030 W. North Ave. Juniper61 boats a brighter interior than when first opened, a beautiful patio out back and a revamped menu of small plates, “large plates” (entrees), brimming salads and tasty burgers and

DINING GUIDE sandwiches. It’s contemporary casual contemporary at its best with inventive twists on familiar dishes, a global culinary outlook and a pleasant setting. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. OD. SB. Handicap access. 727-6161

Kil@wat

139 E. Kilbourn Ave. With its serene, uncluttered décor, Kil@wat is the star of the InterContinental Hotel. The menu wanders from homey fare to trendy items such as seared scallops, polenta cakes and beet salad. Remember the classic Big Boy double-decker burger? It’s on the menu! (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. Handicap access. 291-4793

Kindred

2535 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Kindred is a warm space to get together for innovative cocktails and modern twists on classic food. The chef’s natural approach to food and locally sourced ingredients shine through in each creative and flavorful dish. The menu is broken down into three sections starting with the many options under the heading Gather. These not-so-small plates are perfect for sharing. In the Dine section of larger plates the black angus burger ($13) tops the list of musts. The last section is called Indulge—and you must! The cinnamon sugar crullers ($7) with a coffee crème anglaise finish the meal on a sugary high note. (A.M.) $$. CC. FB. SB. GF. V. handicap access. 446-3640

The Knick

1030 E. Juneau Ave. The floors and metal-edged tables are retro dinette but the colors are bright and contemporary, with rich burnished gold, ruby red and azure blue. Sinuous wood partitions provide privacy for diners. The menu includes sumptuous appetizers, salads, sandwiches and entrées. The bar is well stocked and martini friendly. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. 272-0011

Lazy Susan MKE

2378 S. Howell Ave. Lazy Susan, the cozy restaurant in Bay View, is aptly named with its atmosphere of hospitality and shared family meals. The cuisine, however, is modern. The menu changes constantly, sometimes on a daily basis, depending on what’s available and fresh. It’s divided into sections of starters and “mains” (entrées). All dishes are meant for sharing. (L.M.) CC. FB. SB. RS (telephone only). 988-7086

Merriment Social

240 E. Pittsburgh Ave. Entering the expansive space gives you the feeling of walking into a hosted party where you are the guest of honor. The bright lights and artwork on the wall add to the soft industrial feel. The craft cocktails are creative libations that are a generous pour and have fun signature names. There is an Americanized dim sum cart, several vegan and fish entrées, a superb hamburger and wonderful desserts. (A.M.) $$. FB. Handicap access. 645-0240

Milwaukee’s Best Wings

Metro

411 E. Mason St. Located in one of Milwaukee’s top hotels, Metro is open from breakfast to dinner. The décor has Art Deco touches and the menu is more classic than trendy, mixing seared duck breast, short ribs, Chilean sea bass and baked French onion gratinee. Prime rib is served on Saturday—a retro classic that seems scarce nowadays. The cool bar-lounge has its own menu. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. RS. OD. GF. SB. FB. 272-1937

Milwaukee Sail Loft

649 E. Erie St. With its deck overlooking the river, Milwaukee Sail Loft is a perfect spot for watching the boats sail by. From name and location you might peg the Loft as a seafood place, but while it offers swordfish steak, Maine lobster-stuffed ravioli, seafood Diablo and grilled mahi tacos, the menu is eclectic with all food groups and most of the world’s continents represented. The Loft serves everything from meatloaf to chicken Rangoon and humus. (D.L.) $$-$$$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 223-0100

SPECIALS M: $2 TACOS $1 OFF MEXICAN BEERS T: $2.50 PINTS OF MILLER LITE $3.25 PINTS Riverwest Stein or Blue Moon

$6 BLACK ANGUS BURGER 4-11 p.m. Dine-in only.

W: $2 PBR OR ROLLING ROCK TH: $2.25 RAIL HIGHBALLS $4.50 RAIL HIGHBALL DOUBLES $3.00 HIGHBALLS

est ofe B Milwauke

17 2014- 20 ER

WINN

BEST WINGS 4 YEARS IN A ROW!

1501 N. Jackson St. | (414) 277-0122 thepointseastpub.com

(all the Great Lakes Distillery liquors)

$6.00 HIGHBALL DOUBLES

(all the Great Lakes Distillery liquors)

NO TO-GO OR PHONE ORDERS. NO CHILDREN ALLOWED WITH OR WITHOUT PARENTS.

Cool TUNES all summer long

Mistral

2473 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. The Avalon Theater in Bay View has transformed its bar area into a casual high-end restaurant. Mistral focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and hopes to attract diners who otherwise would not be at the theater with a separate restaurant entrance. Chef Joe Schreiter has experience at Sheridan’s in Cudahy and the Bartolotta Restaurants previously. His menu is concise, with about half a dozen starters, entrées, and one dessert. A chicken confit appetizer is flavored with Moroccan spices. A Tunisian pastry called brik is filled with sweet potato hash and comes with seared ahi tuna. Wines are available by the glass and bottle, with most selections coming from Italy, Spain and France. (L.M.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. 539-6469

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Morel

430 S. Second St. The atmosphere is laid back with a European farmhouse feel and a bonus area where you canMZP24225-AD4_shepherdCityGuide.indd see what is happening in the kitchen. It’s a great spot to enjoy a craft cocktail and engage with the very friendly staff. The menu changes almost daily, but don’t worry if you are like me and get your mouth set on something you had the first go around; Chef Jonathan Manyo keeps some of the popular favorites like the homemade ricotta cavetelli or varies slightly from the original in other inventive and delicious preparations sure not to disappoint. (A.M.) $$$. FB. Handicap access. 897-0747

ParkSide 23

2300 Pilgrim Square Drive, Brookfield Local foods are the focus. This means that the meats and cheeses are from Wisconsin and summertime will feature the bounty of an onsite garden. The interior has earthy tones and a fusion of country charm and urbanity. The bar is a relaxing spot for a craft beer, preferably from Wisconsin. SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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DINING GUIDE The menu is organized into three price categories. Nearly half of the items fall into the lowest. A huge, stuffed pepper and vegetable risotto are among these. Braised short ribs are up a bracket and worth every penny. This is a very popular place, but even when the tables are filled the kitchen keeps pace. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. GF. Handicap access. 262-784-7275

Rumpus Room

1030 N. Water St. The Bartolotta group’s idea of a gastropub is a casual place that hints at Baroque elegance. The beer list is stronger than the wine and the back bar has depth in whiskeys. Evenings offer a fine list of Wisconsin cheeses and smoked meats. The entrées merge comfort food with more ambitious fare. Try the soothing lamb Bolognese stew. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 292-0100

Ruscello

2424 N. Mayfair Road When Nordstrom’s opened at Mayfair Mall in 2015, visitors were surprised to discover a sleek, modern restaurant within the store. Ruscello’s contemporary dining room offers a clear view of the bustling kitchen, though it’s separated by glass so there’s no extra noise. The stylish, fully stocked bar is a great place for a signature cocktail. The menu works just as well for a light lunch or a satisfying dinner. There are several appetizers. To eat on the lighter side, you may want to try one the many salads. All of the sandwiches served include remarkable light and crispy, house-made, smoked, sea salt frites so airy they practically float up off the plate. Hearty entrées and outstanding desserts top the menu. (S.H.G.) $$. CC. FB. FF. OD. Handicap access. 203-6900

Sanford

1547 N. Jackson St. Sanford is in good hands after the long reign of Sanford and Angie D’Amato. Owner-chef Justin Aprahamian was recently named a James Beard finalist for Best Chef in the Midwest. Weekdays offer four- and seven-course menus that wander around the world—the chef’s tour. Otherwise, the main menu still has the grilled tuna with cumin wafers that defined the early days of Sanford. Expect an exceptional experience. (J.B.) $$$$. CC. RS. FB. 276-9608

Story Hill BKC

5100 W. Bluemound Road The latest venue from the owners of Maxie’s serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The dinner menu is divided into “Taste,”“Share” and “Pass” sections inviting you to commune on small to large plates. The inventive dishes include prime grass-fed beef with masa pudding and avocado cream, roasted pumpkin agnolotti (fresh pasta pillows) with crimini mushrooms and maple brown butter and lake trout with tomato jam and sumac vinaigrette. The menu at times is nostalgic with a modern sense. (J.R.) FB. RS. CC. $$. Handicap access. 539-4424

Swig

217 N. Broadway Small plates and big cups of coffee are among the features at Swig, a comfortably stylish place for business lunches by day and for unwinding over drinks and dinner at night. The menu offers a good selection of plates for sharing (everything from crab cakes to mushroom pierogis and short ribs) sandwiches (love that grilled cheese!) and salads. Dine by the fireside in the cool months and enjoy the Third Ward patio when the weather warms up. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. OD. SB. RS. Handicap access. 431-7944

The Tandem

1848 W. Fond du Lac Ave. Owner Caitlin Cullen, who previously cooked at Bavette la Boucherie, offers a full service lunch and dinner restaurant. The menu reflects the diversity of the neighborhood with an emphasis on soul food, plus vegetarian options, Thai, Latin American and even a Detroit twist thanks to Cullen’s upbringing near there. A family style dining special is offered each night, including udon noodle soup, lamb tagine and a whole chicken that can be prepared roasted in Dominican style, Georgia fried or spicy Memphis fried, plus fixings. Lunch options skew towards sandwiches like hot dogs three ways, Cubano and a beet Reuben. (L.M.) $-$$. 885-1919

Tess

2499 N. Bartlett Ave. Upon entering the comfortable space, you’re greeted with a menu that offers up three courses. Big eaters will be happy to know that one item from each of the course options will satiate; those of us with smaller stomachs can rest easy knowing no course is absolute. The crab cake and cider-brined grilled pork tenderloin are hard to beat. Beer aficionados take note: Their 14 taps, including one nitro, encompass all styles, from IPAs to sours to stouts to pilsners, and if you still don’t find something you like, there’s a comprehensive bottle list (F.K.R.C.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. FF. RS. GF. Handicap access. 964-8377

Tre Rivali

200 N. Broadway The Mediterranean-inspired menu features virtually all-from-scratch foods including pastas, pizza dough and cheeses. Also vital to the menu’s identity is the use of a wood-fired grill and oven, responsible for developing the charred textures and robust, rustic flavors for which the cuisine is known. The food is, without questions the hero of Tre Rivali, but the décor deserves special mention as it also leaves a lasting impression—or should I say makes a positive first impression. Oversized Spanish tile flooring provides a colorful mosaic that complements the friendly welcome received upon entry. (K.L.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 291-3971

Triskele’s

1801 S. Third St. Triskele’s menu is fluid and changes frequently, 4 0

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sometimes to reflect the season, other times because the chef just wants to. Often, you’ll find dishes with soft shell crab, Prince Edward Island mussels, or other seafood delicacies as featured specials. Yet, the core of the menu maintains a balanced trio of choices between seafood, meat and vegetarian dishes. One of the best things about Triskele’s is their amazing special deals. Happy hour (4-6 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday) boasts all sort of ways to save a little money with wallet-friendly appetizers and drink specials. (S.H.G.) $$. CC. FF. RS (5+). 837-5950

CUBAN Cubanitas

728 N. Milwaukee St., 225-1760 7973 S. Main St., Oak Creek, 574-5260 Milwaukee’s first and only entirely Cuban restaurant, Cubanitas is part of a group of restaurants owned by Marc and Marta Bianchini. They also operate Indulge wine bar’s two locations and this fall they launched Cubanitas’ second location in Drexel Town Square in Oak Creek. The original Downtown location, with its cheery ambiance and attentive servers, is the perfect spot for an elegant meal to start off a night on the town. Look for multiple preparations of plantains and cassava, as well as a respectable array of seafood, ropa vieja (national dish of Cuba) and knock-your-socks-off cocktails like caipirinhas and pisco sours. (S.M.) $$. CC. FB. OD. LT. V.

DELIS Gouda’s Italian Deli

218 N. Water St. Gouda’s Italian Deli is a piece of Little Italy in the Third Ward. With sausages hanging from the rafters, a deli case full of cheese and olives and dark wood shelves stocked with an array of packaged and canned goods, Gouda’s is a great place to stock up on all things Italian—and to have a sandwich. You can order them to go but what’s the hurry? Gouda’s has half-a-dozen tables for two crowded onto its vintage tiled floor. Prepared fresh and served on hefty submarine-style Italian rolls, the filling choices include the Greta Garbo (veggie), the Luciano (tuna), the Bugsy Moran (ham and Swiss) and the Tommy Gun (salami), most served with olive spread, mozzarella or some other Italian accent. (D.L.) $. OD. Handicap access. 221-6565

Koppa’s Fulbeli Deli

1940 N. Farwell Ave. Koppa’s is a much-esteemed holdover from Milwaukee’s past as a locally owned neighborhood corner grocery. The old place has changed hands over the years but has retained its character, including the Fulbeli Deli, popular for carryouts but with a few tables and chairs for eating in. The menu is as huge as the size of the sandwiches and includes just about anything you would want between sliced bread: ham, turkey, chicken,

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

summer sausage, tuna, corned beef, roast beef, bologna and Wisconsin cheeses galore, often fortified by diced peppers, sliced onions or mounds of sprouts. (D.L.) $. CC. OD. 273-1273

Milwaukee Waterfront Deli

761 N. Water St. Waterfront Deli offers a variety of sandwiches, soups, salads, pizzas and sushi, as well as bottled wines and artisan cheese. Daily specials are even posted on its website and social media. Deceptively roomy, the deli features second-floor seating, where food is delivered via a quirky conveyor belt system. Beautiful artwork and giant chandeliers illuminate this novel eatery. (J.C.) $. CC. OD. NA. Handicap access. 220-9300

Rochester Deli

143 W. Broadway, Waukesha Rochester Deli crafts high-quality sandwiches, salads and soups in a casual atmosphere with comfortable seating. Perfectly grilled and surprisingly light, the chicken Parmigiana sandwich combines egg breaded chicken breasts, mozzarella and parmesan and a fresh, mild marinara, while the Devonshire panini contains cheddar cheese, Tavern ham, tomato, asparagus and honey mustard. Other featured sandwiches include the Wellington panini (Swiss cheese, Angus roast beef, mushroom duxelle), the classic grilled cheese (American and cheddar cheese), the tuna melt and the turkey cheddar panini prepared with homemade cranberry relish. Additionally, the Cobb salad, raspberry chicken salad, chicken Cesar salad, and California salad round out Rochester’s selection salads, while the soups are made daily. (E.P.) $. CC. OD. 262-522-9611

DINERS Café at the Plaza

1007 N. Cass St. Part Art Deco diner, part European-style café, the Café at the Plaza is a charming spot tucked inside the Plaza Hotel. Recently, the menu has been given a remake. Breakfast options include spiced pumpkin pancakes and a raft of interesting items, including house-made falafel and poutine. A distinct Mexican accent can be heard in the breakfast burrito and a beef brisket empanada. Local ingredients come into play. Delicious standbys remain, including a choose-your-options omelet. (D.L.) $. CC. OD. SB. 272-0515

Maxfield’s Pancake House

333 W. Brown Deer Road, 247-4994 2727 N. Mayfair Road, 453-6000 The menu travels across the globe with delicious ease. Omelets and skillet dishes with Greek and Mexican themes are on tap along with more common but no-less-tempting items. Salads, sandwiches and soup round out the lunch options, but breakfast, as the Pancake House name suggests, is a crowning achievement. (J.L.R.) $. FF.

DINING GUIDE Miss Katie’s Diner

1900 W. Clybourn St. Miss Katie’s is in the mold of a classic 1950s diner. It opens for breakfast and makes a reliable omelet. Lunch and dinner offer more substantial fare. The Blue Plate Specials include diner classics like meat loaf and roast turkey. Dinner gets a bit fancier with barbecue ribs and Sicilian filet. The thin-cut onion rings are always good. Save room for a milkshake or malt. (J.B.) $. FF. SB. RS. Handicap access. 344-0044

Sweet Diner

239 E. Chicago St. The eatery is housed in a gorgeous soft industrial space whose exposed Cream City brick has a black weathered look. The gray, cream and white interior tones set the stage for a new concept for upscale modern diners. The menu has many options including gluten free and vegetarian. There are four omelets to choose from including the Wisconsin with sausage and cheese curds. You can also build your own. The omelets were fluffy and cooked well and didn’t skimp on the fillings. Sweet serves classic eggs benedict as well as some fun variations like the Southern, a twist on biscuits and gravy. (S.J.) $-$$. CC. RS. SB. GF. Handicap access. 488-9600

Ted’s Ice Cream & Restaurant

6204 W. North Ave. A Wauwatosa institution, Ted’s has stood the test of time by keeping things simple. Seating is close quarters with a few tables and two counters, while the food is classic, no frills diner fare. Serving breakfast and lunch daily, Ted’s options range from the traditional breakfast and malts and sundaes to specialty sandwiches. Breakfast items include a build-your-own omelet option, pancakes, thickly or thinly cut French toast, Ted’s eggs benedict and a Belgian waffle topped with homemade ice cream. Specialty sandwiches include French dip, Philly cheesesteak and the Ted’s grilled cheese. Offering the classic cheeseburger and the classic hamburger, Ted’s also prepares the Boss Burger, a third-pound charbroiled patty on a garlic roll with French fries and choice of salad or delicious soup. (E.P.) $. 258-5610

DUTCH Café Benelux

346 N. Broadway Boasting a rooftop patio in the Third Ward, Café Benelux is for beer lovers. The list is dozens of pages long, with many of the selections coming from Belgium and Luxembourg. During the summer, the patio is the perfect spot to grab a flight and find some new favorites. They also have several different types of bloody marys and great frites for snacking. The menu, not surprisingly, has a few Dutch and Belgian items. The star item is the frites, which are thin and crisp, served with a variety of sauces. Opt for the roasted garlic aioli, which never disappoints. The rest of the menu wanders

around casual fare with a sound selection of burgers, sandwiches and a few entrées. (L.M.) $$. FB. OD. SB. LT. CC. Handicap access. 501-2500

Café Hollander

2608 N. Downer Ave., 963-6366 7677 W. State St., 475-6771 Café Hollander offers casual Dutch-BelgianEuro-American fare in a setting to match. Beer, especially Belgian varieties, has always been at the heart of the endeavor. Thirteen new taps were recently added, mostly for Belgian brews but with a couple of American craft beers made in the Belgian manner. At Café Hollander, beer is given the attention wine receives in French bistros. Much attention is lavished on the details—the kegs in which the beer is aged, the temperature, the glassware. While contemplating the universe of Belgian beer, you might want to try a new addition to the starters corner of the menu: the Belgian cheese snack, with cubes of Gouda served with Dijon mustard and a shaker of celery salt. Dip the cheese into the mustard, sprinkle and imagine yourself in a bar in Bruges. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. LT. SB. Handicap access.

FRENCH Café Grace

11200 W. Burleigh St. Café Grace is just one component of a larger footprint of newer eateries at The Mayfair Collection in Wauwatosa. The Gougères are little bites of baked paté choux pastry filled with grand cru fondue. The Cassolette d’Escargots ($12) is a successful combination of two classic French preparations. Soupe a l’Oignon arrives at your table in perfect photo shoot-ready form. I can imagine that dining alfresco at Café Grace on a nice day might transport you to a sidewalk café in Paris where you’re surrounded by some of the choicest shopping destinations available. (K.L.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. 837-6310

Lake Park Bistro

3133 E. Newberry Blvd. Open seven days a week, Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro offers the perfect spot year-round for a romantic dining experience. Not only is the très français menu full of delectable dishes that can’t be found anywhere else in the greater Milwaukee area, but the inner décor is warm and inviting. And the view! It’s perched on a bluff overlooking an elegant old stairway wending its way down to the Lakefront. And what could be more romantic than a stroll through Lake Park, in which the bistro is ensconced, after your meal? (J.J.) $$$$. CC. RS. FF. FB. SB. Handicap access. 962-6300

Le Rêve Patisserie & Café

7610 Harwood Ave. A patisserie and café of distinction, Le Rêve boasts desserts that look like works of art. Expect French classics like steak au poivre, bouillabaisse and steamed mussels. Daily specials include delicious rainbow trout and grilled, bone marrow-crusted

beef tenderloin. The bar has a full range of cocktails plus wine and beer. Open from breakfast through dinner. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. SB. Handicap access. 778-3333

Gilles spreads its wealth around the community by supporting a different charity every month. (J.F.) $. NA. 453-4875

Maison

7631 W. Layton Ave., 282-4312 5373 N. Port Washington Road, 961-3288 18880 W. Bluemound Road, 262-789-9490 Have you ever ordered a chicken sandwich at Kopp’s? They’re actually quite remarkable, and worth seeking out in their own right, but it’s hard to visit here and order anything other than a burger. Kissed with a pat of butter, their Frisbee-sized burgers are the most delectable in the city, and worth every single calorie. The same can be said of Kopp’s custard, which is creamy and decadent even by custard standards. Kopp’s creative flavors of the day, which include pricey ingredients like macadamia nuts and chocolate truffles, provide that much more of an excuse to treat yourself. (E.R.) $. NA. OD. Handicap access.

5921 W. Vliet St. Maison is headed up by chef and owner Michael Quinn, who previously cooked at Coquette Cafe. The menu offers French classics like coq au vin with roasted fingerling potatoes and escargots a la bourguignonne with grilled baguette for sopping up the butter sauce. Gougeres with foie gras mousse and soupe a l’oignon with gruyere make great starters. A large wine list is supplemented with classic cocktails, like the French 75 with gin, lemon and sparkling wine, and a sazerac made with cognac, house bitters and absinthe. An homage to Meritage appears on the menu in the form of Chef Jan Kelly’s chocolate ganache cake (L.M.). $$-$$$. CC. FB. RS. 323-4030 Pastiche Bistro & Wine Bar 4313 W. River Lane, Brown Deer, 354-1995 411 E. Mason St., Hotel Metro, 225-3270 Recently, Pastiche expanded to Downtown Milwaukee, having now closed their Bay View location. Regardless, it’s a great place to order some wine, enjoy some onion soup, and then perhaps, for an entrée, try coq au vin, trout amandine or steak frites. The interior has understated Gallic charm. The lunch and dinner menus do differ. Entrées are fewer at lunch but considerably cheaper. The wine list is not large but is thoughtful. In general the prices seem about right. This is a delightful restaurant in an unlikely setting. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. RS.

FROZEN CUSTARD Fred’s Frozen Custard & Grill

4726 W. Vliet St. The neighborhood drive-in is nearly extinct, fallen victim to fast food chains. A rare exception is Fred’s, located in Washington Heights. It’s a small place with standing room only. But there are reasons Fred’s has been in business since 1967. Their roast beef sandwich is a specialty and the burgers are made of fresh beef. Save room for dessert in the form of Fred’s frozen custard sundaes. (J.B.) $. NA. 771-6270

Gilles

7515 W. Bluemound Road Gilles Frozen Custard has been going strong since 1938, so you know they must be doing something right. Of course, how can you go wrong with fried cheddar cheese curds and a juicy Big Daddy Burger with onions, lettuce, tomatoes, ketchup and Miracle Whip? But the frozen custard is the star of the show. Be sure to try the novelty items like one of “those things,” vanilla custard on a peanut butter cookie covered in a chocolate shell and on a stick. While some of the food may be a little rich,

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Kopp’s Frozen Custard

Leon’s Frozen Custard

3131 S. 27th St. Leon’s is the Milwaukee stereotype for “Happy Days.” The business began in 1942 and the current structure was built during the ‘50s. It is the real thing, not a Sonic clone. Come here for the frozen custard, made daily. Otherwise, there are burgers (which are more like sloppy joes) or hot dogs. (J.B.) $. NA. 383-1784

GERMAN Bavarian Bierhaus

700 W. Lexington Blvd. As the former site of the Bavarian Inn, the Bierhaus has quite a history to live up. Fortunately, they do German food, beer and atmosphere right. The Bierhaus works within the German purity law, which demands a beer’s ingredients consist solely of hops, yeast, malt and water. In addition to house-brewed beer, they also offer a solid variety of German classics on tap. A good rule for visiting the Bierhaus is to come hungry; portions are huge and include schnitzel and sausages served with mashed potatoes, sauerkraut and fried cabbage (F.K.R.C.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. FF. SB. Handicap access. 236-7000

Café Bavaria

7700 Harwood Ave. This is the Lowlands Group’s vision of Germany complete with a proper casual décor, a decent beer list and a menu with expected items like Wiener schnitzel and lots of wurst. But it also lightens up with sandwiches, salads and even a Bavarian take on the Vietnamese phở. This is a sociable place with big communal tables. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 271-7700

DINING GUIDE Jack Pandl’s Whitefish Bay Inn

1319 E. Henry Clay St. Pandl’s has served German and American fare since 1915. In addition to Wiener schnitzel, roast duck and beef rouladen, the house specialty is a massive German pancake. The dining rooms are filled with memorabilia from Whitefish Bay’s long-gone resort days. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. SB. FF. FB. RS. 964-3800

Kegel’s Inn

5901 W. National Ave. From the Bavarian-style trimmings of its stone façade building to rich décor of the dark, woodenpaneled dining room surrounded by lush wall murals and Old-World wrought iron fixtures, Kegel’s places a diner in the mindset for a hearty meal. Entrées include a good variety of steaks and chops, but the heart of the menu is in the German house specialties, which includes a half boneless roasted duck, marinated rabbit over noodles, known in the old country as hasenpfeffer; and beef rouladen, a butterfly steak stuffed with bacon, onion, and pickles. German beer is on tap. (M.J.P.) $-$$. CC. FB. FF. 257-9999

Mader’s

1041 N. Old World Third St. In 1902, an ambitious young man from Germany, Charles Mader, poured every penny he had into a restaurant in Milwaukee. Though it moved (once) since, Mader’s has not only been a Milwaukee landmark and cultural cornerstone but can boast a national reputation as one of the finest German restaurants in the U.S. In addition to the restaurant itself, there’s the Knight’s Bar and famous secondfloor gift shop filled with imported beer steins and collectable Hummel figurines. The menu includes favorites like Wiener schnitzel, Kasseler rippchen, sauerbraten, duck strudel, rouladen, sausages galore and much more. (J.J.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. FF. SB. RS. Handicap access. 271-3377

Milwaukee Brat House

1013 N. Old World Third St., 273-8709 4022 N. Oakland Ave., 539-5826 The Milwaukee Brat House, a bar and restaurant on Old World Third Street, has opened a second location in Shorewood. The new restaurant is in the former Oakcrest Tavern space and will follow the same format as its Downtown location, with plenty of TVs in the bar area for sports. Unlike Downtown, though, the Shorewood location is bright and airy thanks to large storefront windows. The focus of the menu is on sausages, plus plenty of shareable appetizers, sandwiches and burgers. A fully loaded brat ($9.95) is topped with kraut, onions, red peppers, mushrooms and giardiniera. Or try four different kinds of sausages and sides on the brat house sampler. (L.M.) $$. FB. OD.

Wegner’s St. Martins Inn 11318 W. St. Martins Road, Franklin Though it’s primarily a German restaurant,

Wegner’s reputation has been built on their Friday fish fry. The standard fry here is beer-battered haddock, though breaded perch is available, too. If you can’t decide between them, get them both on a combo plate. Potato pancakes here are a bit different than most: They’re practically deep fried, lending a hash brown patty crunch and solid golden crust that all other potato pancakes lack. German potato salad is also an option if you can resist the calling of the pancakes. (L.M.) $-$$. CC. RS. OD. FF. FB. 425-9971

GREEK

Gyro Palace

602 S. Second St., 298-9622 5336 N. Port Washington Road, 332-2210 Gyro Palace is well worth a visit, offering a surprisingly extensive menu beyond gyros, including chicken shish-kebob marinated with olive oil, garlic and oregano served atop a pita with onions and tomatoes, and dolmades, grape leaves stuffed with meat and rice topped with a mild lemon rice sauce. Your order is taken at the counter. Delivery is also available. (D.L.) $. CC. FF. Handicap access.

Mykonos Gyro & Café

Apollo Cafe

1310 E. Brady St. With its ancient-modern interior, translating Greek motifs into contemporary design, Apollo Café is a neighborhood favorite for spinach pie in flaky philo dough, a pair of grape leaves stuffed with rice and a plate of warm pita bread. The menu also has plenty of meat including Athenian chicken, beef and tuna souflaki and the Apollo burger, the latter a fast-bite of Eastern Mediterranean food. The veggie plate is a good place to start exploring. Wine and beer are served. (D.L.) $. CC. OD. LT. Handicap access. 272-2233

Cosmos Café

7203 W. North Ave. A crowded place with counter service, Cosmos offers a full chalkboard of menu items. Aside from jerk chicken, burgers and those Hellenic American hybrids, the Greek burger and fries, the menu is all-Mediterranean with gyros, pita sandwiches, salads, humus, spanakopita (spinach pie) and falafel. Among the dinner items is the chicken plate with lemony chicken kabobs, rice topped with eggplant, salad and pita bread. Daily soup and other specials are also available. (D.L.) $. CC. FF. OD. 257-2005

Dino’s Taverna

777 N. Jefferson St. The Taverna has been a center of Greek life for centuries. Dino’s elegantly updates the concept with its black-and-stainless steel bar and Doriccolumned, just-below-street-level room. The wine list is long and the food includes American sandwiches and tasty Greek specialties. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. 221-1777

Golden Gyros

7233 W. Lincoln Ave. Gyros and custard aren’t quite the dynamic duo that burgers and fries have become, but at Golden Gyros they make this odd couple work well together. You also have the option of choosing the old standby of burgers and fries if you’re so inclined, along with a legion of other menu items. The West Allis mainstay features large portions at a reasonable price. Make sure to bring cash, as they do not accept credit cards. (R.H.) $. Cash only. 541-7580

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1014 N. Van Buren St. You won’t leave Mykonos hungry. Even a humble chicken shish-kebob sandwich special comes with fries, soda, white bread and a little salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, feta and black olives. The Café opens at 7 a.m. for breakfast; its lunch and dinner menu includes spinach pie, moussaka and pastitsio. The sunny, open atmosphere conveys the right impression. Yes, it’s counter service, but you’ll feel as if you’ve just grabbed a quick bite in Athens. (D.L.) $. CC. Handicap access. 224-6400

Oakland Gyros

2867 N. Oakland Ave., 963-1393 530 W. Layton Ave., 744-2555 One of Milwaukee’s favorite counter-service restaurants offers gyros and shish-kebob sandwiches, spinach pie, Greek salads and even plain old cheeseburgers. The lamb shank features a large piece of tender, flavorful meat in a brown sauce, served with warm pita, black olives, feta and choice of fries or salad. (D.L.) $. CC. LT.

Ouzo Café

776 N. Milwaukee St. The order-at-the-counter restaurant offers a full menu of Greek specialties, freshly prepared in the kitchen and served at your table. Sure, you can order gyros, but why not sample the spanakopita (spinach pie), dolmades (stuffed grape leaves), feta-laced salads, lamb chops or grilled octopus. Many different combo platters are available. The Athenian chicken is lemony and tender, a big portion served with roasted potatoes. Open late, Ouzo’s bar options include a selection of imported beer; domestic, Greek and other foreign wine; martinis and specialty cocktails including the Greek Kiss made with cherry vodka and white crème de cacao. And yes, the Café’s namesake, the anise-flavored liquor called ouzo, is available. (D.L.) $-$$. FB. OD. Handicap access.

The PeachTree Restaurant

15419 W. National Ave. The PeachTree exceeds expectations by serving affordable Greek and American cuisine in a comfortable, welcoming atmosphere. The mammoth menu features senior specials, lunch specials, dinner specials and weekly specials. Fortunately, the Greek side of the menu doesn’t begin and end with gyros, but offers traditional favorites including chicken shishkabob, moussaka, pasticcio and spanakopita. (E.P.) $-$$. CC. FB. FF. Handicap access. 262-787-2911

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

INDIAN / PAKISTANI Anmol

711 W. Historic Mitchell St. You don’t go to Anmol for atmosphere. It’s tucked into a small storefront and, since it’s Pakistani and not Indian, even the usual Kama Sutra kitsch is absent from the walls. Although the ambience is austere, the food is excellent. The beef and lamb is Zabiha halal, slaughtered according to Muslim tradition, and Amish farmers feed the chickens. The large-portioned entrées also include fish and vegetarian options. Sit back and watch the soccer scores on the Pakistani or Indian satellite channels beamed through the big TV and top off your meal with creamy mango lassi. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. NA. 672-7878

Bollywood Grill

1038 N. Jackson St. It’s a nice touch in keeping with its name: Colorful Indian musicals fill the dining room screen at Bollywood Grill. The daily lunch buffet includes many items seldom seen in these parts, including spinach pakora, chicken chili and bhutara, along with the expected biryani and tandoori dishes. The chicken is tender, there are many vegetarian options, and the cooks aren’t afraid of spices. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. LB. Handicap access. 271-8200

Bombay Sweets

3401 S. 13th St. Bombay Sweets doesn’t stint on spice. The counter-service all-vegetarian restaurant, located in an inconspicuous South Side strip mall, doesn’t dial back the hot flavor for American tastes. Everything is under $8, including a wide array of rice and vegetable-based dishes, eight choices of breads plus samosa and other appetizers. The glass display cases are filled with snacks and desserts sold by the pound. (D.L.) $. CC. OD. NA. 383-3553

Durbar

1011 N. Astor St., Park East Hotel Durbar is a post-modern Mughal Indian fantasy of painted panels, glass-beaded chandeliers, ornate umbrellas suspended from rafters, multiple rooms and no less than two bars, one of them made of glass with colored lights glowing from within. Dinner prices can be as luxurious as the setting but the lunch buffet is a bargain. Most days the buffet includes several tender chicken dishes and several vegetarian items, spiced moderately but flavorfully. Durbar is a feast for palate as well as the eyes. (D.L.) $$$. LB. FB. SB. Handicap access. 272-1011.

India Garden

2930 N. 117th St. As all good Indian restaurants should, India Garden offers a multitude of curries. Lamb curry, beef, chicken, goat and fish curries are a solid starting point. Well-known classics like chicken tikka masala and chicken Madras are pleasantly spiced and

DINING GUIDE well prepared. The tandoori chicken, chicken marinated in spiced yogurt sauce, then baked in the charcoal clay tandoori oven, is delectable. If you prefer to go meatless, you’ll have a lot to choose from at India Garden. Try the aloo gobhi—cauliflower, potatoes and tomatoes cooked together with flavorful spices. The vegetable Manchurian carrot, green bean and cabbage fritters tossed in a spicy sauce, are also quite good. They have a weekend buffet for those wanting to sample Indian cuisine. (S.H.G.) $$. FB. LB. 235-9220

Indian Bazaar

5254 S. 27th St. A well-kept secret for local foodies and a reliable quick fix for South Asian ex-pats, the dining area is at the back of this unassuming Indian grocery. Order at the little window from a surprisingly extensive menu. Selections span the subcontinent’s cuisine from southern to the Indo-Chinese fusion found along its northeastern border. All vegetarian, you’ll get soups, delicate dosas, fresh breads, savory samosas, chat, uthappam, fiery curries, kormas and koftas, classic lassi and other beverages, and pan-regional desserts. Eat in picnic style (plastic cutlery and paper plates), or take home. (P.M.) $. 325-6480

Maharaja

1550 N. Farwell Ave. Maharajah’s interior has undergone a welcome facelift and the menu has been tweaked, but Milwaukee’s longest-running Indian restaurant continues to draw crowds on the strength of its food. The lavish lunch buffet, with many meat and vegetarian dishes, has been a perennial favorite for flavor and variety. Not only will you not leave hungry, but most of us would be unable to find room to taste every item. The dinner menu goes beyond the norm for local Indian restaurants. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. RS. LB. 276-2250

Royal India

3400 S. 27th St. Royal India’s specialties are from the clay tandoor oven, whether flatbreads or a sizzling platter of jumbo shrimp. Meats tend to be lamb and chicken and vegetarians will find the menu a pleasure. The levels of spicing make the dishes accessible yet flavorful. When Royal India opened it was one of Milwaukee’s best restaurants. That still holds true today. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. LB. Handicap access. 647-9600

on every end of town. Out west on busy Highway 100, Tandoor was the pioneer. Like most Indian restaurants, Tandoor features a lunch buffet (Tuesday-Sunday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.) whose origin story involves exposing Midwesterners to unfamiliar Eastern cuisines but whose persistence is all about tasty all-you-can-eat food at a good price. A recent visit found the buffet tables stocked with a variety of dishes including fish, savory mushrooms in gravy, vegetable pakora, biryani, potato-stuffed samosa, naan, lamb kebab and the restaurant’s namesake, chicken baked in a tandoori oven. The spices are toned down at lunchtime but some of the condiments carry a kick. (D.L.)$-$$. CC. FB. LB. 777-1600

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County Clare

1234 N. Astor St. County Clare provides its customers a taste of Ireland through its music, food and drink. Here you will find Gaelic specialties like Irish stew and shepherd’s pie. Even the architecture itself is Irish inspired with several elegant, stained glass windows. Come for a pint of Guinness or enjoy the live music they provide several nights a week. (A.V.) $$-$$$. CC. OD. FB. Handicap access. 272-5273

Book your appointment by phone at 1-800-230-PLAN or online at ppwi.org.

of Wisconsin, Inc.

Mo’s Irish Pub

142 W. Wisconsin Ave., 272-0721 10842 W. Bluemound Road, 774-9782 Whether you’re catching a game with a local brew, listening to live music, competing in trivia night (Tuesdays at the Tosa location) or just enjoying the wide selection of classic Irish pub fare and more, Mo’s Irish Pub has you covered. We recommend the lunch combo of a half of Mo’s Reuben Sandwich with a cup of chicken dumpling soup. The slowcooked corned beef with sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and Swiss cheese on grilled marble rye is nothing short of heavenly and pairs well with the soup. It’s also worth checking out the onion rings, which are so big that you could fit them around your hand like a bangle. (J.F.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access.

Mulligans Irish Pub & Grill

5114 S. 108th St. Walk in and be surrounded by the aroma of Indian spices in a part of town better known for fast food. The menu has all the expected standards but manages to pack a few surprises, like the duck and lobster dishes. The tandoor oven offers a few unique items not usual to Indian restaurant fare. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. RS. SB. FF. Handicap access. 427-5900

Tandoor House

O’Donoghue’s Irish Pub

1117 S. 108th St. In recent years, Indian restaurants have opened

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IRISH

8933 S. 27th St. The hybrid Irish pub and sports bar in Franklin, boasts 16 taps mixing craft beer, macro mainstays and the usual Irish suspects—Guinness, Harp, Magners, and Smithwick’s. The menu is wideranging, from a savory Jameson whiskey-glazed salmon to Irish classics like shepherd’s pie and bangers and mash served with a killer Guinnessbased gravy to pub pizzas. Their house-made corned beef pops up on several dishes, like a classic corned beef sandwich. The adventurous should seek out the Reuben pizza. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. FF. RS. GF. Handicap access. 304-0300

Taj Mahal

Quality, affordable, and nonjudgmental health care.

13225 Watertown Plank Road O’Donoghue’s has an excellent bar menu, some of SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

4 3

DINING GUIDE it with Irish roots. Of course, you’ll find a sandwich stacked high with tender chunks of corned beef on marbled rye, anchoring a brimming basket of French fries with a pickle spear and a dish of good coleslaw. The burgers are tasty and prepared to order. The Irish chips are baked to golden brown and accompanied by a mild-tasting dip. Not sure if breaded pickles or battered mushrooms are considered an Irish specialty, but they are a unique addition to the appetizer menu. Wisconsin is wellrepresented by a Friday fish fry. (D.L.) OD. FB. FF. Handicap access. 262-641-2730

O’Lydia’s Bar & Grill

338 S. First St. The structure was built in the late 19th century as a Pabst tavern, but these days there are 16 tap beers, including a wide array of micro brews from local breweries, as well as a full bar and tasty bloody mary with piquant garnishes. Pub fare is hearty and affordable. The Irish nachos are a good choice for gluten-free diners and the sliders (burger, Irish beef and meatloaf varieties) are deservedly popular, as is the shepherd’s pie. (S.M.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. FF. SB. Handicap access. 271-7546

Trinity Three Irish Pubs

125 E. Juneau Ave. Made up of three different bars, Trinity is the perfect place to come for lunch and dinner. Each pub offers a different vibe: a cozy bar, a dining area and a space for live music. Also enjoy the lively and gorgeous outdoor patio. Come in the day to enjoy a delicious variety of plates and specialties such as their shepherd’s pie. Stop by in the evening for the perfect place to celebrate and enjoy a night out. (A.V.) $$. CC. LT. FF. SB. FB. OD. Handicap access. 278-7033

ITALIAN Balistreri’s Bluemound Inn

6501 W. Bluemound Road It’s a hit on the West Side, seldom less than crowded during peak hours, and the formula for its success is simple: great pizza, an array of Italian and Sicilian specialties, plus steak and fish. Come in a suit, come in a baseball cap on your way to Miller Park or come as you are. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. FF. LT. Handicap access. 258-9881

Barbiere’s Italian Inn

5844 W. Bluemound Road, 453-3800 1021 Milwaukee Ave., 764-1234 Barbiere’s dimly lit interior looks and feels vintage and its menu offers home-style Italian comfort food. Barbiere’s classic pizzas (available in many sizes) feature mildly spiced sauce, quality mozzarella cheese and crispy, medium-thick crust and can be customized with additional toppings, such as homemade Italian sausage, fresh sliced tomatoes, pepperoncini, green olives, minced garlic and anchovies. (E.P.) $-$$. FB. RS. Handicap access.

Bella Italiana

1721 W. Canal St. At Potawatomi Casino’s Bella Italiana, everything is homemade, portions are generous, options are plentiful and prices are reasonable. Bella Italiana (in the former space of the Wild Earth Cucina Italiana) is, indeed, a beautiful and comfortable dining venue. Its menu is extensive—numerous options for appetizers, flatbreads, pastas, soups, sandwiches, salads, entrées, desserts and beverages. Of the latter, Bella Italiana provides imbibers with about 40 different red and white wines, plus—thanks largely to an attached full bar—many mixed drinks, cocktails, Italian sodas and beers. (J.J.) CC. FB. GF. RS. Handicap access. 847-7626

Café La Scala

631 E. Chicago St. Café La Scala has been quietly turning out Italian favorites at budget-friendly prices for years. Although located inside the Italian Community Center, Café La Scala has its own street entrance. The restaurant is conveniently situated close to Downtown and provides a quiet spot for a quick breakfast, an unpretentious business lunch or a relaxed evening meal without having to contend with a crowd flocking to the newest, flashy place. (S.H.G.) $-$$ FB. OD. Handicap access. 223-2185

Calderone Club

842 N. Old World Third St. One of Downtown Milwaukee’s most reliable Italian dining options, Calderone Club serves thoughtfully plated Italian cuisine with a keen attention to details. The mixed greens in the house salad are crisp, the bread served before meals is warm and fragrant and the red sauce at the heart of most entrées is thin, silky and heavenly. Served on a simple crust that’s not too thick and not too thin, the pizzas let the fresh ingredients carry most of the flavor. Calderone Club’s full bar, large wine selection, snappy service and upscale but not too formal environment make this a smart date destination. (E.R.) $$$ CC. RS. FB. Handicap access. 273-3236

Carini’s La Conca D’Oro

3468 N. Oakland Ave. Last year, Carini’s sacrificed a few tables in the rear for a welcome new addition, a wood-fired pizza oven. The 12-inch pizzas are Neapolitan style; the crust is slightly crisp at the edges but soft as pastry inside, neither thin nor thick, with a touch of smoky flavor to the toppings. Other dinner entrées, most served with soup and salad as well as choice of potato or pasta, are Italian accented. Seafood is prevalent, but steak is represented along with a dozen pasta dishes. (D.L.) $$$. CC. OD. FB. LB. Handicap access. 963-9623

Caterina’s Ristorante

9104 W. Oklahoma Ave. With Mediterranean plastered walls and booths under wooden trellises, the romantic ambiance of Caterina’s Ristorante is hard to beat. The traditional 4 4

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Italian menu is full of favorites in the major food groups, served with choice of potatoes or pasta, soup or salad, and a loaf of warm Italian bread with a dish of olive oil. Ingredients are Grade A, the preparation is superb and the presentation appealing (without the drizzled pretense of many newer restaurants). The wine list is long, Italian accented and affordable. In business for three decades, Caterina’s has outlived trendier competitors on the strength of food, atmosphere and service. (D.L.) $$$. CC. FF. RS. Handicap access. 541-4200

Centro Café

808 E. Center St. A little storefront-turned-restaurant, Centro Café is a beacon of Italian food made with locally produced ingredients. You will feel immediate warmth as soon as you walk into the cozy space. The menu’s focus is pasta. Dishes range from traditional walnut basil pesto to modern spaghetti with chorizo and shrimp in a spicy tequila lime sauce. Gnudi ($16), ricotta dumplings similar to gnocchi, are homemade and not too heavy. The menu also includes a long list of starters and salads. Ten-inch pizzas can be ordered as shared appetizers or as a meal for one, and, unusually, are all made with gluten-free crusts. (L.M.) $-$$. CC. SB. GF. FB. 455-3751

Dino’s Riverwest

808 E. Chambers St. Into its third generation as a tavern-restaurant, Dino’s offers an unpretentiously homey decor in which to dine on hearty Italian. The pesto gnocchi are firm pasta dumplings bathed in a pesto of arugula and basil baste joined by flecks of sun dried tomato to add a piquant tang; meat, such as Dino’s individual meatballs, can be added at an additional charge. Sandwiches, salads, soups and desserts such as tiramisu also beckon, but Dino’s Sunday brunch selections have me especially anticipating a return visit. The prospect of polenta and eggs with sides of sautéed kale and roasted mushrooms looks particularly enticing. (J.L.R.) $$. FB. FF. SB. 562-9171

Divino Wine & Dine

2315 N. Murray Ave. This is the former Palermo Villa, an East Side institution for pizza. The new owners have kept the pizza recipes, but now their starter courses and entrées have been expanded in this Sicilian American menu. Starter courses vary from mozzarella marinara and fried eggplant to things like arancini (filled rice balls) and rapini (grilled broccoli rabe). The nice Palermo salad has conch and tender octopus. Most pasta and a few entrées are sold in smaller portions. This means that you can order both the beef tenderloin spedini and the fettuccine puttanesca without spending a fortune. (J.B.) $$. FB. LT. Handicap access. 212-2222

Dorsia

1301-07 E. Brady St. A new Italian spot named after a fictional restaurant in the movie American Psycho has

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

opened in the former Mimma’s space on Brady. Dorsia is owned by Geno Cataldo, whose family owns Jo-Cat’s lounge next door. The space was completely remodeled with a modern aesthetic, including dark gray walls in the bar and bright pop art posters. The focus of the menu is antipasti meant for sharing, along with homemade pastas. Pasta dishes can be ordered as an entrée or as a flight of three or more. Bucatini is dressed with tomatoes, guanciale, Parmesan and basil. Crudo is an app meant for sharing with raw scallop, hamachi, peppers and cucumbers. Brunch, cocktails and an extensive wine list are also available. (L.M.) $$. CC. FB. RS. 539-6826

Il Mito Trattoria e Enoteca

6913 W. North Ave. Il Mito combines a pleasant Italian-inspired setting with a menu to match. While not purely Italian, the flavors are still there. The establishment has much to offer, including small plates, thoughtful pastas and mighty tasty pizzas in casual yet upscale settings at prices that won’t break the bank. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. GF. SB. RS. Handicap access. 443-1414

Louise’s

801 N. Jefferson, 273-4224 275 Regency Court, Brookfield, 262-784-4275 Louise’s was probably the first restaurant of its kind in Milwaukee—the sort of place whose interior is so swanky that you’d never guess it was part of a national chain. The lively atmosphere and exposed kitchen combine with a menu featuring specialty pizzas, pastas and wonderful focaccia. (D.L.) $$. CC. RS. OD (Milwaukee location only). FB. SB. Handicap access.

Maggiano’s Little Italy

2500 N. Mayfair Road It’s a national chain with a sense of style, a restaurant in Mayfair Mall that Frank, Dino and the boys would have enjoyed. Their parents would have loved the big portions of traditional Italian food. Think we’re kidding? In the tradition of family style cooking, Maggiano’s doesn’t skimp when it comes to sausage or spaghetti. The dark interior is reminiscent of Italian American restaurants of yesteryear. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. Handicap access. 978-1000

Nessun Dorma

2778 N. Weil St. Everybody likes a good deal at a restaurant, especially when the food proves as good as the prices. One such place is Nessun Dorma, named for a Giacomo Puccini aria (from Turandot) and housed in a former corner tavern. The menu is focused on lighter fare with an Italian touch, including bruschetta, antipasti and panini. The daily specials are worth a trip to Riverwest. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. LT. 264-8466

DINING GUIDE Onesto

221 N. Broadway Milwaukee’s Third Ward has a new place for great Italian food. Onesto, which means “honest” in Italian, opened in 2014 and has been putting out honestly good food ever since. Fresh and tasty food is the name of the game here. House-made ricotta cheese, daily baked bread, fresh hand-made pasta and locally sourced foods are the backbone of Onesto. (S.H.G.) $$. RS. FB. OD. Handicap accessible. 308-1600

Ristorante Bartolotta

7616 W. State St. This is serious Italian served in a classic former Pabst Cream City brick tavern. The seating is European and cozy. Attentive servers, an elegant atmosphere and rustic Italian cuisine are the hallmarks of the menu. Prices may resemble Rome but at least the pastas can be ordered in half portions. Sidewalk dining is a delight in the heart of the Tosa Village. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 771-7910

Sala

2611 E. Hampshire Ave. Sala has long been popular college lunch spot or an unpretentious place for grabbing an Italian dinner on the way home. Sala has become known beyond the campus environs for its attractively served panini sandwiches, salads and brimming bowls of pasta, with or without the meatballs. There is an extensive wine list, including rarely seen vintages from Sicily and Sardinia; a beer list with domestic, craft brews and imports (Peroni, naturally); and a happy hour from 3-6 p.m. with custom cocktails such as the Milwaukee Mule, prepared from Rehorst vodka, ginger beer and lime. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 964-2611

Salotto Zarletti

1515 W. Mequon Road The location is in a small luxury mall in a space formerly occupied by Laacke & Joys. It makes for a charming setting with wood floors, high ceilings, two levels and large windows. Salads are taken seriously here and flavors are on target. At lunch the heartier choices are pizzas and pastas. The dinner menu adds entrées and a few more starter courses. How good are the pizzas? These have a thin crust with a thicker rim and are cooked in a wood-fired oven. They are chewy to the bite, not especially crispy. (J.B.) $$-$$$. OD. FB. Handicap access. 262-241-5990

Santino’s Little Italy

353 E. Stewart St. The long bar-dining room is dark and comfortable as a womb but also suggests something theatrical—the perfect setting for a restaurant that refines Italian American classics to a high level. Owners Santo Galati, Greg Huber and Nick Anton gutted an old corner bar and installed an Italian-made hybrid gas-wood pizza oven capable of baking five pies simultaneously over fragrant cherry wood. That the results are delicious is no surprise. Pizza occupies a big slice of the menu,

but there is more, including many antipasti, salads and pasta-based entrées plus homemade desserts. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. RS. FB OD. 897-7367

Stella Van Buren

550 N. Van Buren St. The best of all worlds can be found on the third floor of the Weston Hotel. Stella Van Buren, the hotel’s Italian-American steak house, is warm and cozy, yet trendy and sleek. It has the kind of Italian American comfort food you would find at a redand-white-checkered table cloth restaurant, but also a small plates and outstanding steaks menu found at an upscale, big city steak house. Large windows that reach to the ceiling give a panoramic view of the city to complete the ambiance. The bar area alone is worth the destination, whether it’s the extensive bourbon selection (that the bartender has to shimmy up the library ladder to obtain) or the craft cocktails, some with an Italian flare, but all made with fresh ingredients. (A.M.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. RS. GF. Handicap Accessible. 847-5622

Tenuta’s Italian Restaurant

2995 S. Clement Ave. Tenuta’s traditional Southern Italian food is well prepared, as if made in a kitchen that hasn’t changed in a century. The presentation, however, is very contemporary. Quality starts with freshness, which brings not only the best flavors from the familiar ingredients but the richest colors as well. Emphasis is on pasta dishes and pizza. An extensive wine list is available. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. SB. Handicap access. 431-1014

Zarletti

741 N. Milwaukee St. Zarletti is an Italian place that’s simply excellent. The panini served at lunch are the best. At dinner the pastas are compelling, but do try the dreamy (if pricey) ossobucco. It rarely gets any better. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 225-0000

JAMAICAN Irie Zulu

Likkle Jamayka

235 S. Second St. Likkle Jamayka focuses on Jamaican cuisine but

will include influences from around the Caribbean. Owner Adriel McFarlane is from Jamaica. The menu is small, with 10 appetizers and salads, half a dozen entrées, sides and a few desserts. Seafood plays heavily, including in apps like blue lump crab cakes with Cajun remoulade and fried conch (called “jewels of the Bahamas” here). Jamaican patties, a hand held pastry filled with curried chicken and beef, are a favorite island food, as is the curried goat with snow peas, carrots and potatoes. Classic jerk chicken gets a makeover here into jerk chicken and waffles with strawberry salsa and rum and coconut maple glaze. Lunch brings sandwiches and small plates, like the Caribbean delight, a sandwich with smoked salmon and slaw served with sweet potato fries. (L.M.) $$. 210-2814

Uppa Yard

4925 W. Fond du Lac Ave. A combination dinner of curried goat and oxtails with beans and rice makes a fine embarkation point, with tender meats running a gamut of spiciness with a generous portion of smoky-tasting grains and legumes that could be a meal unto themselves. Sides include steamed cabbage flecked with strands of red and green bell pepper, as well as friedlengthwise cuts of plantain. Chicken is the menu’s most plentiful meat; curry and jerk seasoning for the fowl may be the best-known Jamaican preparations, but brown stew is worth a try as well. Tropical Rhythms juice drinks and kola champagne—like a cream soda with a hint of ginger beer bite—number among the tastier Jamaican ways to wash down Uppa fare. (J.L.R.) $-$$. 871-7138

JAPANESE Artisan Ramen

563 E. Mason St. Downtown has its first dedicated ramen shop, Artisan Ramen. The restaurant’s ambiance is modern and dark, with navy walls and bright art with everything from Star Wars characters to traditional Japanese prints. The menu is small, with a focus on appetizers, ramen and drinks like matcha, espresso and cheese tea ($5), a Chinese drink of green tea with a layer of soft cheese on top. Ramen noodles are made fresh daily, and ramen broth comes in three varieties: pork, chicken and vegetable ($9$10). On the less traditional side of things is the crunchy ramen cheese sticks ($5), an appetizer made by wrapping ramen noodles around cheddar cheese, then deep frying it. (L.M.) $-$$. 888-8800

Benihana

850 N. Plankinton Ave. This nationwide chain offers Japanese tableside cooking by acrobatic chefs. Those not in the mood for a performance will find tempura appetizers and a sushi bar with modest prices. Steaks, from the raw sashimi appetizer to the tenderloins, are wellmarbled and tender. Dinners are comprehensive, including everything from an appetizer to dessert. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 270-0890

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Fushinami Seafood & Sushi Buffet

2116 N. Farwell Ave. For one price you get a seafood buffet and all the sushi you can eat. The sushi is freshly prepared to order. The setting is nice with tile floors, stone walls and elegant furnishings. The sushi menu is much larger at dinner when sashimi is also offered. Friday and Saturday dinners charge a few dollars more as crab legs are added to the buffet. For the quality of the setting and the sushi the price can’t be beat. (J.B.) $$. CC. LB. RS. FB. Handicap access. 270-1918

Ginza Japanese Restaurant

2727 N. Mayfair Road Most of the menu can be described as traditional. Ginza offers the usual suspects you’d find at most sushi restaurants—maki (rolls), temaki (hand rolls), nigiri, sashimi and what seems to be an ever-expanding category of “Special Rolls,” including a daily preparation not listed on the menu. But there are some surprises. Hits include Yuzu Salmon ($8), sliced avocado layered under pieces of fatty salmon delicately coated with a miso-yuzu sauce. The yuzu (Japanese citrus) provides just the right amount of acidity to balance the richness of the fish and avocado. Also impressive was the a la carte nigiri and sashimi—a sushi purist’s musthaves. (K.L.L.) $-$$. Handicap access. 771-3333

Hungry Sumo Sushi Bar

2663 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Hungry Sumo has a small sushi bar and seating for around 40 in a warm, industrial setting. While you can get entrées like pad Thai, the focus of the menu is on fresh sushi and other Japanese dishes. Starters include edamame and gyoza, plus more unusual options like potato egg rolls. Maki comes in classic and contemporary versions, like the lady marmalade with spicy salmon, masago, avocado and mayo. Teriyaki bowls, donburi (sushi bowls), soup, dessert and beer are also served. (L.M.) $$. 595-9656

Japanica

4918 S. 74th St. Greenfield’s spacious and gracefully ornamented Japanica makes for a traditional ethnic dining experience and a truly memorable outing. Enjoy a wide variety of sushi, rice and noodle dishes or the establishment’s signature hibachi, served straight off the grill mere inches away. This menu offers dinner and a show like nothing else; deft chopping and knife tossing are the norm, but your chef might just offer to squirt sake directly into your mouth as well! All hibachi entrées are served with generous appetizers of soup, salad, fried rice and shrimp. You may count on going home stuffed, satisfied and even astounded. (S.M.) $$-$$$. CC. RS. FB. Handicap access. 281-9868

Kanpai

408 E. Chicago St., 220-1155 2150 N. Prospect Ave. The elaborate wood sushi bar is an attraction in itself. So is the sushi. The signature rolls are elabo-

DINING GUIDE rate presentations. Try the belly of hamachi or yellowtail. This is a sister restaurant to Brookfield’s Wasabi and the menu follows the Japanese-fusion theme, although it is not identical and includes innovative small plates. The Wagyu jalapeño poppers filled with Wagyu beef, cheddar and cream cheeses, wasabi aioli and teriyaki sauce is a good starter. Expect to be frequently surprised. (J.B.) $$$. CC. RS. FB. Handicap access.

But the real attraction is the Sichuan fare. Items are prepared with uncommon authenticity from the thin slices of barely cooked pork belly to more familiar items like Chongqing chili beef. The menu is extensive and about half of the dishes are mild in spicing, but dare to be different and order that fish fillet with pickled vegetable soup. (J.B.) $-$$$. FB. CC. Handicap access. 262-717-9858

Kawa Ramen & Sushi

2321 N. Murray Ave. The owners of Kawa Japanese Restaurant in Whitefish Bay have opened a second location on the East Side. Kawa Ramen & Sushi will have a similar menu focused on various types of sushi, Japanese entrées, udon and lunch specials, plus a selection of ramen. The ramen broth and noodles are made in house, and come in four varieties. Traditional tonkotsu ramen ($12) is the most common version, made with pork broth and topped with pork belly. Garlic miso ramen ($13), seafood ramen ($16), and a hell fire ramen ($13) with a pork broth of varying spice levels are also available. (L.M.) $$. 800-7979

Sake Tumi

Screaming Tuna

325 W. Silver Spring Drive Kawa can seat about 40 patrons tops, but features a menu of Japanese kitchen and sushi bar items much larger in size and variety than one would think such a cozy restaurant could support. Appetizers offer good value, including abbreviated versions of entrée-sized portions found elsewhere on the menu. Special rolls are undoubtedly another highlight; certain combinations are unique and set Kawa apart from other sushi restaurants. (K.L.L.) $$. Handicap access. 249-5750

106 W. Seeboth St. Screaming Tuna is an excellent option for those interested in either sushi or moving bridges. For sushi, Screaming Tuna has won a number of local dining awards and is the only Wisconsin sushi restaurant to be a Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch partner, insuring that their offerings are farmed and fished in environmentally friendly ways. For bridges, you get a prime view of both lift-style and bascule-style crossings, both of which can be seen in motion on summer afternoons. With a little luck (and a short walk to the end of the Riverwalk), diners can also catch the Menomonee River swing bridge allowing passage to the valley. (M.J.P.) $$-$$$$. CC. OD. FB. RS. Handicap access. 763-1637

Kiku Japanese Cuisine

Sushi Go

Kawa Japanese Restaurant

202 W. Wisconsin Ave. The focus at Kiku is sushi with nearly eight different nigiri and makis to choose from. Entrées include teriyaki, tempura, seafood and noodles. Appetizers include items like grilled hamachi kama and a jellyfish salad. The sushi is always fresh and of good quality. A sure bet is the tempura, especially the jumbo shrimp in a feather-light batter. The setting is casual with many private booths. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. Handicap access. 270-1988

Kyoto

7453 W. Layton Ave. Kyoto offers good Japanese food and has expanded over the years to include items from China and Thailand. The tempura rarely gets better, especially the shrimp. Lunch specials offer exceptional value on rolls, bento boxes, chef specials and noodles. (J.B.) $$. CC. RS. Handicap access. 325-1000

Meiji Cuisine

2503 Plaza Court, Waukesha Meiji is actually two restaurants in one. The first is Japanese and the second Sichuan Chinese. The Japanese has the usual sushi, tempura and some hibachi tables for the Benihana-type experience.

2110 E. Oklahoma Ave. A popular food truck known for trendy sushi burritos has opened a permanent location. Sushi Go is decorated with sushi-themed artwork and bright green accent walls. Customers order at the counter, then their meals are delivered to their table. The restaurant’s menu includes most of the same items as the food truck, including the salmonator, a burrito made with salmon, pickled ginger, wasabi and soy aioli, jimaca, cucumber and avocado, and the spicy tuna roll with tuna tartar and spicy sauce. A menu expansion is in the works, including ramen, bowls and salads. (L.M.) $-$$. 333-5565

Wasabi Sushi & Sake Lounge

15455 W. Bluemound Road, Brookfield The menu and setting set Wasabi apart among suburban restaurants. It’s very Japanese and luxuriant. The menu offers occasional Asian fusion surprises and entrées feature a bit of everything. The star here is the special maki sushi rolls, which are wildly creative and extravagant. (J.B.) $-$$$. RS. Handicap access. 262-780-0011

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JEWISH/ KOSHER

house specialties are large enough to serve a few diners and are heated with a butane burner at the table. (J.B.) $. CC. Handicap access. 289-8208

Benji’s Deli & Restaurant

1958 N. Farwell Ave. Korean food doesn’t yet have the cultural foothold of Chinese food in the American culinary landscape; but with enticing and mysterious dishes like “hot pots” and “bibimbop” and the fortifying fermentation of kimchi, it has the potential. Stone Bowl Grill—located right next to the Best Sushiwinning Rice N Roll Bistro—offers a variety of authentic fare in a modern environment suitable for date nights, celebrations or good old gustatory experimentation. (T.F.) $$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 220-9111

4156 N. Oakland Ave., 332-7777 8683 N. Port Washington Road, 228-5130 While Benji’s might serve less kishka and gefilte fish than they did a generation ago, the menu is still heavy on the Jewish favorites. In addition to chili and mushroom barley soups, they offer a chicken broth soup with your choice of matzo ball, kreplach, or kasha. They also serve both beet and cabbage borscht. The cabbage borscht, with a creamy and sweet tomato base, was a nice warm-up on a near-autumn day. The “Benji’s Favorites” include fried matzo, potato pancakes, and their signature Chicken in the Pot: a halfchicken served in homemade chicken broth with carrots, noodles and a matzo ball. Benji’s all-day breakfast includes the standards, as well as their very popular Hoppel-Poppel: scrambled eggs with potatoes and fried salami, as well as bagels and lox. (M.J.P.) $-$$. CC. NA.

Jake’s Deli

1634 W. North Ave., 562-1272 Jake’s Deli is an old-school Jewish delicatessen known for its corned beef, Reubens and pastrami. The meat is hand-carved, cooked in its own juices, piled high on pretzel rolls and embellished with zesty dressings. Jake’s also carries Polish sausage, hot dogs, matzo ball soup, potato salad, kraut and a few other items. This no-frills, always-busy joint has that mid-20th-century urban vibe. Jake’s closes early, serving mostly to the lunch crowd. (D.S.) $. CC. NA. Handicap access.

The Rubenstein Family Kosher Oasis

1414 N. Prospect Ave. The Rubenstein Family Kosher Oasis, located off the lobby of the Jewish Home and Care Center, is open to the public. While bagels and cream cheese are on hand, most of the items are contemporary American with a rabbinical imprimatur. Think a quesadilla filled with cheese and a thick layer of tuna salad or seafood rolls made with buttered hot dog buns. Though only open from late morning to early afternoon on most days, the Kosher Oasis serves a Wednesday evening fish fry of tender white filets in dark breading (made with shards of various kinds of torn bread) with French fries, a slightly creamy coleslaw and marbled rye bread. (J.L.R.) $. CC. FF. SB. Handicap access. 277-8813

KOREAN Seoul Korean Restaurant

2178 N. Prospect Ave. This is one of the only area restaurant devoted to Korean food. All of the basics are here, such as beef bulgogi, kalbi and spicy grilled pork. The

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Stone Bowl Grill

LAOTIAN Bamboo

3427 W. National Ave. This Laotian-Thai restaurant offers that complex and spicy Laotian salad, larb. The mixture of beef, pork or chicken minced with roasted rice powder is mixed with green onion, cilantro, mint and chili peppers. Some of the stickiest rice in the city, Napa basil, iceberg lettuce and white cabbage are served on the side. Unique to the neighborhood, and perhaps all of Milwaukee, are the appetizers of four small quails and beef jerky and a Thai frog legs entrée with string beans, basil and lime leaf paste. (J.L.R.) $. 316-9023

Vientiane Noodle Shop

3422 W. National Ave. Serving traditional Laotian fare (along with other Southeast Asian options), Vientiane’s food is generously portioned and affordably priced. The menu features a reasonable selection of appetizers, pan-fried noodle and rice dishes, such as fresh spring rolls, mee krob (crispy yellow noodles topped with stir fry) and sae goong (spicy shrimp). Other Laotian dishes include larb, a traditional Laotian salad, joom seen (hot pot) and the phan khao poun wrap. Prepared for two or four people, the joom seen contains beef, clear noodles, seafood, eggs, green onions, mushrooms and napa cabbage and is accompanied by beef broth and a side of peanut sauce, while the phan khao poun wrap is large enough for two people, requires selfassembly and features vermicelli noodles, beef, sweet and sour sauces and a platter of vegetables. (E.P.) $. 672-8440

LATIN AMERICAN Antigua Mexican and Latin Restaurant

5823 W. Burnham St. Latin American, Mexican and Spanish staples make up Antigua’s large menu. You will find pupusas from El Salvador, empanadas from Argentina,

DINING GUIDE lomo saltado from Peru and that Spanish classic, paella. Though the menu covers a lot of territory the preparations are traditional and everything is worth a try. Bring out the sangria. (E.R.) $$$. CC. FB. RS. SB. Handicap access. 321-5775

C-Viche

2165 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. C-Viche serves Peruvian, Argentinian, Mexican and Ecuadorian food. Vegetarians will be pleasantly surprised at the quality of the grilled veggie panini. There are several appetizers to choose from, but the most outstanding are the yucca frites. The namesake civiche is beautifully plated. Served with corn two ways—a pile of choclo, or hard boiled kernels off a huge Peruvian corn stalk, and a handful of canche, fried kernels reminiscent of corn nuts—atop a boiled-then-cooled sweet potato which is itself atop a leaf of romaine lettuce, the civiche features an attractively assembled mound of flounder covered in ahi amarillo, a spicy and brightly acidic sauce. (F.K.R.C.) FB. $$. 800-7329

El Salvador Restaurant

2316 S. Sixth St. A classic Salvadoran item is pupusas, corn cakes with a choice of fillings that are grilled. Delicious! Salpicon is seasoned minced beef that is served at room temperature with excellent homemade tortillas. Yuca con chicharron is chunks of pork meat that have been fried to a crisp served over yucca, a root tuber much like a potato. (J.B.) $. CC. 645-1768

La Caribeña

1704 S. Pearl St. The menu of Puerto Rican, Colombian and Dominican food is served in an atmosphere resembling a Central American village reimagined as a nightclub. Latin rhythms fill the air, but the food is even more enticing than the music. Beef, chicken pork, shrimp and fish can had at most

DAILY SPECIALS

16 BEERS ON TAP!

any type of ethnic eatery, but goat? The chivo guisado is especially inviting. The Dominican stew features bone-in morsels of goat meat, some cut thin as fine brisket, simmering in their own slightly thickened, mildly spiced juices. Deliciously complementing the veggie-free concoction is a generous side of steamed cassava possessing a subtle, distinct flavor somewhere between white potato and turnip. (J.L.R.) $. 239-8788

Mara’s Grill

3441 N. 84th St. The 10-seat eatery is decorated with bric-a-brac hanging from the proprietors’ homeland of Guatemala. Four Guatemalan entrées are listed on a menu that contains a few Mexican specialties including tacos. Try the chicken pipian with roasted tomatoes, peppers and onions in a variation on mole. Mara’s Guatemalan variation of chile rellenos, featuring a chipotle sauce between roasted poblano pepper and its fried egg batter coating with additional options of chicken or spinach, beckons for a return visit, too. $$ (J.L.R.) 810-0031

Snifters Tapas & Spirits

606 S. Fifth St. An upscale lounge and restaurant focused on dark spirits like whiskey has opened in Walker’s Point in the former Café La Paloma space. The food will be a fusion of Latin and soul food cuisine, with tapas, rice bowls and a few entrées available. Menu items include fried jumbo shrimp called los camarones ($13), Spanish-inspired shrimp and grits ($14), and an empanada called the Manchester ($5) filled with macaroni and cheese, and fried chicken and waffles ($12). Cocktails will be made from high-end spirits, or customers can order from a large selection of beer and wine. The walls are lined with brick and worn wood, giving the space a cozy warmth in the dim lighting. Cigar boxes act as wall art, and cigars will be available for purchase

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6204 S. Howell, Milwaukee 414.768.0126 Fa m i l y O w n e d S i n c e 19 6 8 — C E L E B R AT I N G 5 0 Y E A R S — SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

Enjoy unlimited samples from 45 local breweries.

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Limited VIP Tickets available. This event is for 21+. IDs will be checked at the door. Your friends at Old Forester & Korbel remind you to drink responsibly.

DINING GUIDE and can be smoked on the restaurant’s patio. (L.M.) $$. 395-5121

MEXICAN

calm for the amount of traffic the place gets, thanks in part to low lighting and exquisite jungle murals that engulf the entire restaurant (bathrooms included) in an air of tropical wonder. (S.M.) $$. CC. RS. FB. OD. Handicap access. 672-3755

Al Pastor

Botanas II

6200 W. Burnham St. Takeout is the main focus, with only a few small tables and counter seats in the dining room. The specialty is dishes from Mexico City, including alambre, a plate made with chopped steak, bacon, pork chops, chorizo, grilled vegetables and pineapple, all topped with melted cheese and served with tortillas. Tacos, tortas, enchiladas and burritos are also available, with meat choices of asada, chicken, chorizo, ground beef, lengua and the restaurant’s namesake, pork al pastor. (L.M.) $. 210-5714

Azteca

901 Milwaukee Ave. Located on South Milwaukee’s main drag in the spot that once housed a beloved Serbian restaurant, Balkanian New Star, Azteca has been serving good Mexican dishes for the past decade. The friendly and affordable eatery has a nothing-fancy interior but boasts a menu with all the familiar staples along with a few surprises. The weekday lunch buffet is a good place to start. You can build your own meal from ground meat, refried beans and Spanish rice, piling the fixings into flour tortillas and crunchy taco shells. The expected steak fajitas, cheese enchiladas and chicken chimichangas are on the buffet table next to unusual items such as cochinita pibil, tender pork slow roasted in orange juice, garlic and spices. There are also salads and desserts. Margaritas and Mexican beer are on hand, but why not try horchata, a milky non-alcoholic drink made from rice and ground almonds. (D.L.) $. CC. FB. SB. Handicap access. 766-0450

BelAir Cantina

1935 N. Water St., 226-2245 6817 North Ave., 988-8533 2625 N. Downer Ave., 964-1190 250 High St., Brookfield, 262-784-4938 410 W. Town Square Way, Oak Creek, 215-7995 The popular locally owned chain of Tex-Mex style restaurants keeps expanding and has been branching out across the state. All locations serve up burritos, margaritas, fajitas and tacos in a variety of Mexican and international flavors. Stop in and try out the Korean beef tacos or hotdog taquitos. (L.M.) $$. CC. FB. SB. OD. Handicap access.

Botanas Restaurant

816 S. Fifth St. With authentic Guadalajaran cuisine and more than 100 brands of tequila, you’ll never be at a loss for options. The rich, dark moles and wide array of seafood are of particular interest. Service is exceedingly fast and friendly and patrons enjoy ample private lot parking. The atmosphere is surprisingly

1421 E. Howard Ave. Botanas II boasts a spacious bar, a great place to watch a game while enjoying a delicious margarita or any of more than a dozen tequilas. Owner Martha Navejar brought the same recipes and menu from the original Botanas. Service is friendly, the food is flavorful and traditional and the prices are a good value for the portions. (A.M.) $$. OD. FB. Handicap access. 489-0529

Buena Vista Restaurant & Bar

1110 N. Old World Third St. The short-lived Matador Taco + Tequila Bar space has been purchased by The Who’s on Third Group and re-opened as Cantina. The concept is essentially the same, with a Tex-Mex menu of tacos, burritos, and tequila-based drinks. Tacos are sold a la carte, and include rice and beans when you order any three. They range from slightly more traditional carne cantina with steak, chihuahua cheese, onion, cilantro and lime, to modern, like the jerk taco with jerk chicken and banana pepper slaw. Fajitas are available in chicken or steak, and burritos come smothered in queso sauce. A variety of margaritas are offered, along with a paloma, michelada and tequila old fashioned. (L.M.) $$. FB. 897-8137

Chipotle Mexican Grill

3447 W. Forest Home Ave. A cozy little building across from Jackson Park has housed a string of restaurants over the years, but Buena Vista Restaurant and Bar has staying power. It’s the sister restaurant of the popular Taqueria Buenavista and food truck and the first full-service restaurant of the bunch. It’s also the only one to have a full-service bar, turning this into a place where you want to linger with friends, instead of just grabbing a quick bite. (L.M.) $-$$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 383-3040

Café Corazón

3129 N. Bremen St., 810-3941 2394 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 544-2774 “Corazón” means heart, and that word describes the food, service and atmosphere at both Café Corazón locations. All the food is fresh and they are proud to work with many local farmers. And it’s not Milwaukee restaurant Mexican food—don’t expect to have chips and salsa delivered to your table once you sit down, but feel free to order them and guacamole as a starter. They have a spicy green sauce with just the right amount of heat and the traditional salsa. The menu offers something for everyone. Besides more traditional dishes they offer a burger, stuffed pepper and bourbon salmon and many vegan options with Simple Soyman’s herbed tofu and soy chorizo. (A.M.) $-$$. CC. SB.

Café El Sol

1028 S. Ninth St. Located deep inside the United Community Center, El Sol’s visibility is relatively low, even though it has its own plainly marked entrance. But anyone who loves Mexican and Puerto Rican food shouldn’t overlook it. El Sol is notable for its daily Puerto Rican specials, but also serves up a fine selection of enchiladas, tacos, guacamole and tostadas. Try a breakfast of huevos rancheros or good ol’ Yankee eggs, toast and bacon. The Friday fish fry buffet features live Latin music. (D.L.) $. CC. FF. RS. 384-3100 ext. 275

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Cantina

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600 E. Ogden Ave. 223-4710 3232 S. 27th St., 389-1380 15375 Bluemound Road, Brookfield, 262-796-0463 2711 N. Mayfair Road, 258-6649 Chipotle’s mission is to change the direction of America’s favorite ethnic food and set an example for the food service industry. The menu retains the tastiness of familiar Mexican American dishes while jettisoning anything unhealthy. The meat and dairy products come from animals that roam freely. Most everything is made from fresh ingredients, down to the lime in the margaritas. Guacamole is prepared several times daily and the fresh-baked chips are among the best anywhere. (D.L.) $. CC. OD.

Cielito Lindo

739 S. Second St. The dining room is a colorful Mexican fantasy with tropical Mexican murals on orange walls and a ceiling with a vivid blue sky and a giant eagle. Nobody will ever fall asleep in this room! The menu includes reasonably priced Mexican standards with decent chiles rellenos. Items with salsa verde and salsa rojo are also worth a try. There are two dining areas, both with bars, and a patio. Though there are few items that are unique here, the cooking is sound and the prices reasonable. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 649-0401

El Beso Mexican Restaurante & Cantina

5030 S. 74th St. Step inside El Beso Mexican Restaurant in Greenfield and you will almost feel as if you’ve been transported to Old Mexico. The ambiance at this place is hard to beat. From the soaring ceiling in the courtyard inspired lobby to the brightly colored walls, beautiful artwork and memorabilia displayed throughout the restaurant, diners will feel cheerful shortly after arriving—even before they’ve had a margarita. It’s not just about the ambiance though. El Beso is owned and operated by the same family behind other Milwaukee area restaurants, El Fuego and Mad Rooster, so they’ve got some serious cooking chops to back up the delicious food they serve. (S.H.G.) $$. CC. GF. OD. Handicap access. 817-0362

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

El Canaveral

2501 W. Greenfield Ave. El Canaveral, housed in a former Schlitz tavern, makes two typical Mexican staples really well: tortillas and salsas. It’s not uncommon to get two or three different types of salsa at a Mexican restaurant, but four is a little more unusual. Two are creamy from the addition of cooking oil to create an emulsion with cooked peppers: one is green with jalapeños, the other orange with habaneros. A tomato-based salsa and a smoky version with chile de arbol complete the set. They’re lovely scooped up with tortilla chips, but order some handmade corn tortillas instead. They’re thicker than some, but still pliable and full of fresh-fromthe-comal charred flavor. (L.M.) $-$$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 671-7118

El Fuego Mexican Restaurant

909 W. Layton Ave. El Fuego is a jumbo-sized Mexican establishment, but the amenities are nice with an inviting bar plus an outdoor patio complete with palm trees and a cascading waterfall. The food ranges from above average to quite good. Guacamole is made on the spot and the shrimp cocktails are large and a bit spicy. Do try the enchiladas de mole. This kitchen has an excellent recipe for this chocolatebased sauce. Prices are affordable, except for the premium tequilas, of course. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 455-3534

El Local

1801 S. 11th St. El Local’s reputation rises from authentic Mexican tacos and other simple items, including exceptional tacos al pastor and carnitas. The birria, a goat meat soup, is as hearty as a stew. Seafood varies from the jumbo Mexican cocktails to a mixed seafood soup and whole red snappers in a classic preparation. (J.B.) $-$$. Handicap access. 672-6746

El Patrón

2423 S. Sixth St. Cesar Lopez, the son of Rodrigo Lopez from Cielito Lindo, one of Walker’s Point’s early success stories, opened a Mexican restaurant of his own. El Patrón. The interior is vibrant with aquatic and avian murals, Mexican television on the big screen and music from a Mexican station. The menu offers hearty, familiar dishes in generous portions along with a few specialties from Jalisco, the state where the Lopez family originated. Among them are molcajete, which combines steak, chicken and shrimp with avocado, tomato, onion, pepper and melted cheese. Another El Patrón specialty, birria, is a stew made from lamb and served Friday, Saturday and Sunday. (D.L.) $$. FB. 204-8901

El Senorial

1901 S. 31st St. The menu includes standard Mexican fare, but the selection is broad, the quality consistent and seafood dishes abundant. Try chorizo tacos with a spicy punch or a big platter of shrimp fajitas. The house specialty is parillada, a tabletop grill with an

DINING GUIDE assortment of meats. Start the meal with a good ceviche and finish with vanilla flan. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 385-9506

find fresh renditions of old favorites as well as authentic Mexican classics not commonly found here. (K.L.L.) $$. GF

friendlier prices. (J.B.) $. CC. Handicap access. 744-4417

Fat Valdy’s

Kompali Taqueria

1205 E. Brady St. The owners of C-viche have opened Kompali Taqueria, a Tex-Mex restaurant, in the former Cempazuchi space. It has been remodeled with bright indigo walls and a mural depicting the tequila-making process on the wall behind the bar. The menu’s focus is mainly tacos, with a section of traditional Mexican tacos served on homemade corn tortillas called Paco’s tacos, and Karlos’ tacos, which include international flavors. Al pastor is cooked on a vertical spit with pineapple, while the lomo saltado taco is filled with Peruvian stir fried beef. Tortas, appetizers and desserts like fried ice cream ($6) are also available. (L.M.) $-$$. FB. 578-7866

112 E. Dakota St. The owners of a taco truck have opened a brick-andmortar location on the south side. Las 7 Estrellas serves a full menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner items seven days a week. The storefront restaurant is sparse but inviting, with about a dozen tables and a small bar for dining. The menu includes plenty of Mexican favorites like a taco dinner with your choice of filling, along with some more unusual items. Lengua enchiladas are filled with diced tongue and topped with salsa roja. Steak and pork meatballs called albondigas enchipotadas are served in a chipotle sauce with rice and beans. Instead of the usual chips and salsa, customers receive complimentary fresh french fries when they dine in. (L.M.) $$. 231-9519

La Canoa

The Laughing Taco

5108 W. Bluemound Road The festive sports bar and Mexican restaurant makes the most of its proximity to Miller Park. Valdy’s offers a selection of hearty sandwiches, homemade pizzas, filling appetizers and heaping plates of Mexican American staples like chimichangas, quesadillas and enchiladas. With its free shuttle and generous drink specials, Valdy’s invites budget-minded Brewers fans to head to the stadium on a full stomach. (L.M.) $$. CC. FB. OD. 443-0287

Fiesta Garibaldi

821 W. Lincoln Ave. This small, colorfully adorned Mexican restaurant across the street from Kosciuszko Park in the Lincoln Village prides itself on its seafood, with specialties including paella, calamari, oysters, ceviches and caldo de mariscos (a seafood soup). Most entrées are served with heaps of rice and beans on plates that look every bit as colorful and festive as the restaurant itself. (E.R.) $$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap Access. 645-4552

Habanero’s Mexican Kitchen

869 N. Mayfair Road, 607-9025 7700 W. Layton Ave., 282-5000 With hearty greetings of “Amigos!” the Habanero’s servers gladly bring second baskets of their tasty complimentary chips and are always keen on fast service from a sprawling menu encompassing generous portions of familiar Mexican dishes. There are even vegetarian options and not all items are dialed down spice wise. Lovers of tequila will find abundant variety along with a lengthy margarita list. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access.

Jalapeño Loco

5067 S. Howell Ave. Jalapeño Loco has a menu for everyone. If steak tacos and chicken enchiladas are your thing, you’ll be just as satisfied as the person who orders chiles en nogada or the mole Oaxaqueno. Try the pork ribs in salsa verde, a tart sauce with a spicy kick. The setting is casual with a large fireplace and a bar serving fine gold margaritas. Seasonal specials make this one of the most distinctive local Mexican restaurants. (J.B.) $$. CC. OD. FB. Handicap access. 483-8300

José’s Blue Sombrero

8617 N. Port Washington Road, 351-9280 20371 W. Bluemound Road, Brookfield, 262-432-6667 6430 Washington Ave., Racine, 262-886-5600 Yes, the usual suspects are present at Jose’s Blue Sombrero—those items with which we’ve come to associate or define Mexican food (in the U.S.) such as burritos, enchiladas and tostadas. But look past the category names alone and you’ll

1520 W. Lincoln Ave. La Canoa prides itself on mariscos, or seafood. From a smelt appetizer to a regional variation of Spanish paella featuring octopus, mussels, shrimp, calamari, crab and clams, most any aquatic creature worth eating makes the extensive menu. Amphibians aren’t left behind, ether, as four frog legs preparations are on offer. As good a place to start among more than 100 menu entrées is one of La Canoa’s catfish platters. (J.L.R.) $$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 645-1140

La Fuente

9155 W. Bluemound Road, 771-9900 Although closed now, the original Walker’s Point location became a magnet for Milwaukeeans looking for decent tacos, burritos and enchiladas at lunch and dinner. The Margaritas offered another reason for the wait-in-line crowds. The new location in Wauwatosa has picked up the slack, maintaining La Fuente’s menu of Mexican staples. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. LT. Handicap access.

La Salsa

119 E. Oklahoma Ave. A colorfully painted and decorated nest of rooms, La Salsa covers the timeline from breakfast through dinner. The menu begins with a half dozen egg dishes and rises from there to explore all the Mexican American staples in beef, chicken and pork. Five combo plates offer easy ways to sample the dishes. A few unusual items are available, including beef tongue and pork smothered in green salsa. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 483-0522

Lala’s Place

3470 E. Layton Ave. Cudahy is an unlikely spot for a Mexican restaurant but this former diner does the trick. Alicia “Lala” Guerra is the owner and manages to visit every table when she is here. The kitchen makes a fine chicken mole and decent pork al pastor. The décor is modest but this is a friendly place with even

Las 7 Estrellas

1033 S. First St. The Walker’s Point taqueria serves up a small menu of Mexican street-style tacos. The Laughing Taco is headed by the husband-and-wife team of Justin Carlisle, of Ardent, and Lucia Muñoz. Muñoz grew up in northern Mexico, and it’s that region’s taquerias that inspired this small counter service spot. The menu includes seven different kinds of tacos. Four are served on corn tortillas: seasoned pork on a spit called trompo, bistec, papas in tomato sauce, and nopalitos in chile sauce. Three types of tacos are larger and served in flour tortillas, like the pirata with steak, cheese, avocado, cilantro and onion. Like Carlisle’s Red Light Ramen, The Laughing Taco serves up alcohol-filled slushies, including a grapefruit and tequila paloma. (L.M.) $. 210-3086

Los Paisa

600 W. Brown Deer Road Los Paisa takes the idea of home-style Mexican food fairly literally. The building it operates in is, after all, a home. If not for the neon open signs in the window, you might think you entered someone’s home for lunch or dinner. The menu is traditional: fajitas, enchiladas and tacos come with seasoned rice and refried beans. Portions are large. Los Paisa offers a variety of proteins to customize your order, including steak, chicken, ground beef, carnitas, chili verde pork or chunky beef, plus a dozen seafood and vegetarian menu items. (K.L.L.) 540-2125

Margarita City

8201 S. Howell Ave. Oak Creek’s Margarita City offers all the standard Mexican favorites, like tacos, enchiladas, burritos and fajitas. For something unique, try the pozole verde, a green version of pozole made with tomatillos and garnished with radishes and cabbage. Seafood fans might enjoy the chiles rellenos, served two to an order: one stuffed with shrimp and cheese, and the other with spinach and cheese. And of course there are a number of margaritas on the drink menu, including a version made with tamarind and one that incorporates watermelon liqueur. (L.M.) $$. FB. 574-5144

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Mr. Señor’s

2335 N. Murray Ave. Mr. Señor’s is take-out window just north of the six-way intersection of Cramer, Farwell, and North. (If you pass the sign with “You just passed good Mexican food” scrawled on it, well, you just passed good Mexican food). With everything on the menu made from scratch from generations-old recipes, Mr. Señor’s reflects and respects the tradition from whence it came with a menu consisting of nachos, tacos, burritos, and a “Plate of Food” that consists of the customer’s choice of meat (ground beef, chicken, pork, steak, or house-made chorizo), rice, beans, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, onions, cilantro, pico de gallo, sour cream and a tortilla. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. Handicap access. 550-TACO

Restaurante Juquilita

2344 S. 27th St. The menu is fairly expansive, featuring everything from tacos and enchiladas to traditional Mexican seafood dishes and hearty soups. To start, consider one of Restaurant Juquilita’s ceviches or a plate of oyster charros or oyster gratin. For entrees, there are dozens of options including garlic snapper, tamales, carne asada and camarones a la tinga. Served with rice, beans and potato salad, the camarones a la tinga are tender and moderately seasoned with onion and pepper. Robust soups are also available from the Seven Seas Soup and shrimp and rice, to fish soup and a large, enjoyable bowl of posole. (E.P.) $-$$. CC. RS. 226-6967

Riviera Maya

2258 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. With its sleek bar and Mayan-style murals, Riviera Maya brings contemporary casual elegance to Mexican dining. The menu is also unique, with Oaxacan items, sandwiches and moles along with more familiar Mexican dishes. Entrées include a cup of the excellent sopa de tortilla, an inspired version of a traditional Mexican soup. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. OD. SB. Handicap access. 294-4848

Señor Sol

8129 W. Greenfield Ave. Señor Sol serves traditional Mexican cuisine with decently sized portions. Enjoy all the regular Mexican restaurant staples, like fresh homemade guacamole, complimentary chips and salsa, nachos, combos, enchiladas, burritos and tostadas—Señor Sol is known to be tastily above the average fare. Wash all this down with fresh margaritas, horchata and Corona. (D.S. and J.B.) $-$$. CC. OD. Handicap access. 456-9955

Taqueria El Cabrito

1100 S. 11th St. The Cabrito name has been popularized around town by two vans serving lunch tacos. The mothership restaurant offers a wider range of food including tacos, burritos and tostadas. A wide variety of meats are used but there are also vegetarian options. The tacos al pastor is among the best in Milwaukee. (J.B.) $. CC. 385-9000

DINING GUIDE Tres Hermanos

1332 W. Lincoln Ave. One of Milwaukee’s enduring Mexican restaurants, Tres Hermanos is family owned and operated. Modestly sized and brightly decorated, a muralcovered wall separates the comfortable dining area from the slightly nosier full bar. The swordfish replicas suspended from the center of the ceiling are a seemingly unintentional representation of the great role of seafood on Tres Hermanos’ traditional menu. (E.P.) $-$$. FB. 384-9050

Tu Casa

3710 W. Lincoln Ave. Formerly Casa Noble, Tu Casa is a welcome addition to Milwaukee’s roster of Mexican restaurants. Featuring affordable takes on classic Mexican dishes and a welcoming atmosphere, it’s definitely worth a visit. They serve breakfast all day, menudo on weekends and excellent combo plates at all times. Once food stops being served at 10 p.m., they frequently offer DJs and clear space for a dance floor. (F.K.R.C.) $. FB. Handicap access. 383-4666

Villa’s Restaurant

2522 W. Greenfield Ave. This small eatery has a big menu and even larger servings, plus some interesting Oaxacan specialties. The only mole is a mole negro, delicious with chicken or pork. The gorditas are delicious with handmade corn cakes and several choices of filling. More unusual is the tlayuda, a folded tortilla the size of a small pizza with abundant filling. While the décor is basic, the quantity and quality of the food more than compensate. Simple margaritas are available as are a few Mexican beers. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. Handicap access. 672-1943

MIDDLE EASTERN Casablanca

728 E. Brady St. Casablanca just kept growing ever since they moved to Milwaukee’s East Side. A few years ago the already attractively designed restaurant added a colonnaded upper level with a veranda. Now they have expanded to Brookfield. On a more subtle level, they continue to enhance their already outstanding lunch buffet with new delights. Old favorites remain, allowing diners to sample menu items including spinach pies stuffed with sharp feta cheese, crunchy falafel balls, tabbouleh, humus, babaganouj and a selection of desserts. The weekday buffet is vegetarian (you can order meat with an upcharge) but the Sunday version includes succulent lamb, chicken and more. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. LB. OD. RS. SB. Handicap access. 271-6000

Kabob Hub

2713 N. Bremen St. The mostly to-go Middle Eastern place shares a kitchen with the neighboring Shi Chai Restaurant

& Hookah Lounge. Open until 2 or 3 a.m. each night, it dutifully checks all the boxes for good late-night dining: It’s fast and reasonable, with a menu big enough to accommodate the tastes and dietary restrictions of nearly anyone. Falafel and Schwarma wraps are the default orders here; each is generously packed with fresh vegetables. For the truly hungry there are dinner plates of lemon chicken and lamb shank (served with humus and pita as well as fries or rice), but for those just looking to line their stomach with some quick drunk food the menu also offers a selection of burgers, nachos and wings. (E.R.) $. 702-1420

Sababa

391 E. State St. By day, Sababa is a café serving breakfast and lunch for the Downtown office crowd, but in the evening it takes on another character. The area away from the office atrium has a bar and a small lounge. And the menu offers Middle Eastern mezza, or small plates. It is appealing lighter fare with many items for the vegetarian. Meat eaters will enjoy kifta sliders and the beef tenderloin shawarma wrap. This is a delightful bar-lounge in a very unlikely location. (J.B.) $-$$. FB. CC. OD. Handicap access. 224-9507

Shahrazad

2847 N. Oakland Ave. Arabian nights (and lunches) are a pleasure to behold at this popular East Side spot for Middle Eastern cuisine. Vegetarians delight in the many meat-free appetizers; fans of chargrilled lamb, chicken and beef will find kebob plates filled past the brim. The dinner menu also offers Persian specialties, mainly kabobs. Freshly baked desserts include the highly recommended warbat, an Arabic cheese custard-filled pastry. (J.B.) $$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 964-5475

Shawarma House

2921 N. Oakland Ave., 967-1000 17385 W. Bluemound Road, Brookfield, 262-938-9300 The all-in platter makes for a generous introduction to many of Shawarma House’s best dishes. Small hills of aromatically spiced beef and chicken shawarma top tender basmati rice with a touch of saffron. To the side lies a mildly garlicky humus or saltier babaganouj with falafel. Jerusalem salad is given a fibrous, crunchy base with the unusual additions of red cabbage. For dipping and topping, a warm pita rounds out a filling meal. Vegetarians will enjoy the Go Green plate with an assortment of salads and falafel. Sandwiches in pitas and wraps and a novel Arabic-style cheeseburger on a bun are also available. (J.L.R.) $-$$.

MONGOLIAN Bd’s Mongolian Grill

598 W. Northshore Drive, Bayshore Town Center The chain (with only one location in Wisconsin) has the distinction of being the first U.S.-based 5 0

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restaurant to open a franchise in Mongolia. The hook is the supreme customizability of the “create your own stir-fry” option. The restaurant caters to special dietary needs with lots of zero-cal sodas, clearly labeled vegetarian and gluten-free sauces and an “allergy zone” grill where your food can be cooked in its own wok. (S.M.) FB. 906-0300

Genghis Khan

725 N. Mayfair Road Chinese food is on the menu, but the main attraction is the Mongolian grill, where you can build your own meal—from a salad-bar selection of vegetables, meats and condiments—and watch it all sizzle. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. FB. RS. LB. Handicap access. 774-5540

PERUVIAN Chef Paz

9039 W. National Ave. On a cool autumn day in Wisconsin, few things are nicer than a piping hot plate of delicious food in an inviting atmosphere. A delightful gem nestled in the heart of West Allis, Chef Paz will fill you up and warm your heart. What was once a classic corner diner has been transformed into a little slice of Peru. Colorful walls, simple tables with chairs or molded booths, soothing music and mouthwatering aromas from the kitchen set the tone, but the friendly service will make you feel right at home. (S.H.G.) $-$$. CC. OD. 327-1600

La Serenata

4978 S. Packard Ave. La Serenata revamped its menu with an array of Peruvian cuisine. La Serenata’s menu is divided into comida criolla, meaning traditional dishes, with several choices including tallarines verdes con bistec en su jugo, a Peruvian style spaghetti with green pesto and sirloin steak, or ali de gallina, a spicy shredded creamed chicken with rice and potato. The chifa peruano, or Peruvian-Asian fusion section, has an array of stir-fry and soups. Chifa emerged as a culinary tradition of Chinese and Peruvian fusion. (S.J.) $$. CC. RS. 204-8973

PIZZA 9th Slice Pizza Co.

5620 S. 108th St. A new pizza and Italian restaurant has moved into the strip mall that will be home to the new Festival Foods in Hales Corners. Owned by former Jake’s Deli owners, 9th Slice is part fast casual and part sit-down restaurant. Pizzas from the Italian conveyor oven can be had anytime, whereas a menu of pastas and grilled meats will be available for dinner. Individual 10-inch pizzas are $8 for unlimited toppings or specialty option, like the “ya der eh” with five cheeses. Appetizers include boneless and bone-in wings, toasted ravioli and cheesy garlic bread. Lasagna is stuffed with beef and ricotta and topped with pasta sauce. (L.M.) $-$$. FB. 930-5505

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Anodyne Coffee Roasting Co. and Wood Fired Pizza

2920 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Anodyne is well-known in Milwaukee for its highquality coffee, and it should be no surprise that when they added pizza to the menu it met the same high standard. Their Bay View location features a wood-burning oven with southern Italian style pizza, with Italian inspired menu options, as well as numerous vegetarian choices. The café also offers wine for pairing, and boasts the perfect ambiance to enjoy a relaxed dinner with friends. (E.E.) $$. Handicap access. 489-0765

Balistreri’s Italian-American Ristorante

812 N. 68th St. Older folks who dine at Balistreri’s on 68th and Wells may find themselves reminiscing about pizzas from days long past when eating here. The cozy, old-fashioned dining room doesn’t seem to have changed much since it opened in 1968 and neither has the pizza. Which is a good thing when you are talking about a Balistreri’s pizza! Thin-crust pizzas topped with simple, traditional toppings like cheese, sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, olives, onions and the special Balistreri’s pizza sauce is what they do best here. (S.H.G.) $$-$$$. CC. FF. 475-1414

Capri di Nuovo

8340 W. Beloit Road A restaurant called Capri has sat on the corner of 84th and Beloit for decades but the new Capri, under new owners, has been completely remodeled (though the old sign was kept for history’s sake. It’s a breath of fresh air for anyone who remembers the old place. Lasagna is the house specialty, made with meat sauce and then baked in individual dishes with a blanket of mozzarella on top. Pizzas come in Milwaukee, Chicago or pan styles and you can even pick up a take-and-bake pizza to go. The brick-surrounded patio is a nice spot in summer. (L.M.) $$-$$$. FB. OD. 543-5510

Classic Slice

2797 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Classic Slice offers salad, appetizers and pizza (by the slice and in pie form) that is a cut above the competition. Kind to those with special dietary needs, Classic Slice offers a delicious house-made gluten-free crust sans upcharge as well as tasty GF appetizers like cheesy mashed potatoes. Salads are full of hearty, top-end ingredients like kale, arugula, humus and pistachios—miles from the incidental role greens play at most pizzerias. Vegans and vegetarians are treated to tofu toppings and vegan sausage. Truly an establishment with heart, Classic Slice proudly serves local vendors’ products, including Simple Soyman tofu and Yuppie Hill eggs. (S.M.) $$. GF. 238-2406

DiModa Pizza & Hot Spot

1758 N. Water St. The old Trocadero building now houses DiModa Pizza & Hot Spot (1758 N. Water St.), offering some truly excellent Roman-style pizza. At 13”,

DINING GUIDE the wood-fired pizzas are ideally split between two hungry-ish people. A standout is the Spicy Pep, which features pepperoni dry-cured with ghost peppers from Madison’s Underground Meats, caramelized cipollini onions, mozzarella and an arrabiata-type tomato sauce. While ghost peppers may conjure up images of red-faced folks gasping for air and begging for milk, the spice is pleasantly manageable—just enough to have kick, but quelled by the salty mozzarella and the sweet onions. The crust is awesome: thick but not overly chewy. If you’re not in the mood for pizza, DiModa’s Tannery Row Wings are listed as an appetizer but will easily fill you up. Oven roasted and marinated in a chili-lemon sauce, they’re pleasantly different from your run-of-the-mill wings, especially when they’re dipped in their house-made caper parmesan ranch. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$$. CC. OD. FB. SB. GF. RS. Handicap access. 331-0020

Divino Wine & Dine

Dom & Phil’s DeMarinis

1211 E. Conway St. One of Bay View’s longest-running restaurant-bars, Dom & Phil’s DeMarinis has been a pizza destination for generations. Eschewing trends, DeMarinis sticks to Italian American tradition. Pizzas come in three sizes and can be topped with cheese, sausage, pepperoni, anchovies, onions, mushrooms, black olives and green peppers. For vegetarians, they offer an “Italian Garden Pesto Pizza” with broccoli and artichoke hearts; confirmed carnivores will opt instead for the “Steak Compobasa” with tenderloin and red peppers. DeMarinis’ pizza is unique for its paper-thin crust. Appetizers come in generous servings. Also on the menu are pasta dishes and sandwiches. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. OD. 481-2348

Grimaldi’s

20119 Lord St., J-101, Brookfield A popular New York City-based pizzeria has opened in The Corners of Brookfield. Grimaldi’s serves New York-style pizza from a 25-ton coalburning brick oven, which gives the crust its famous char and crispness. Pizzas are available in 12- to 18-inch sizes with build your own or specialty pizza options. The Don is a meat-lovers favorite, topped with Italian sausage, meatballs and pepperoni. Fans of white pizza will appreciate

Open Everyday! M-Sat 9-5, Sun 11-4 2015 W. St. Paul Ave. Milwaukee (414) 933-0808 BBClighting.com

the Quattro Formaggi, with mozzarella, asiago, Parmesan, Pecorino Romano and gorgonzola cheeses and no red sauce. Italian-American salads, bruschetta and desserts are also available, as is a full bar. (L.M.) $$. 262-785-1115

Ian’s Pizza

2035 E North Ave. 146 E. Juneau Ave. Ian’s great contribution to college cuisine was popularizing mac n’ cheese pizza, a slice that’s worth each and every one of its considerable calories. Many of Ian’s specialty pizzas are even more daring, including the smoked brisket (with mozzarella, house-made barbecue sauce and tater tots) and chipotle sweet potato (topped with pickled onions, Portobello and feta). It’s not just the novelty that draws people in, though. All those imaginative ingredients sit atop a textbookperfect crust: crispy on the bottom, but tender and toothsome around the edges. (E.R.) $$. 727-9200 (either location)

Lisa’s Pizzeria

2961 N. Oakland Ave. Lisa’s Pizza has been an Eastside staple since they opened in 1962. Sharing a two-block strip of Oakland Avenue with both the newly-opened, late-night friendly, New York-style pizza shop Sal’s and the ever-convenient, equally late-night friendly, fast food favorite Domino’s is no easy feat, but Lisa’s more than holds their own by specializing in high-quality no-nonsense pies, and a cozy atmosphere that is equally suited for a Sunday family dinner or a casual date night. (R.H.) $$. CC. FB. 332-6360

Little DeMarinis

2860 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. The original Mama DeMarinis closed in 2012, but much to the relief of those who’d been craving a slice of their favorite pizza, Little DeMarinis is now open. Leading the new venture is the granddaughter of Lucille and Vincent DeMarinis. Veronica Cieslak and her husband, Joe, have the original handwritten recipes, so the crust, sauce and sausage all taste just the way long-time patrons remember. For those new to DeMarinis pizza, that means a 1950s-style thin-crust pizza, loaded with fresh homemade sausage. (S.H.G.) $$. FB. FF. Handicap access. 763-5272

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Mama Mia Italian Cuisine

8533 W. Greenfield Ave. The go-to local chain for pizza back in the ‘70s, Mama Mia continues in a location just blocks from the Wisconsin State Fair Grounds. Mama Mia features delectable thin-crust pizzas. Their tomato sauce is a bit on the sweeter side, and it gels nicely with the slim, bready crust and plentiful, salty cheese. Their E.B.A. pizza Everything But Anchovies—is stacked to the ceiling with topics and is superlative. Their lunch buffet includes five different types of pizza, meat lasagna with what seems like infinite cheese, and a killer hearty, wellseasoned minestrone soup. (F.K.R.C.) $$. 475-0400

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DINING GUIDE Maria’s Pizzeria

5025 W. Forest Home Ave. Visit Maria’s Pizza, its three generations of family owners and its loyal clientele for a glimpse of 1950s dedication and charm. Established more than half a century ago, Maria’s is decked out in festive Christmas lights, paint-by-number religious pictures and Tiffany-style lamps. You’ll smell the delicious sesame seed garlic bread from a block away and the tasty breaded appetizers will have your mouth watering in seconds. Classics such as spaghetti and lasagna are available and the enormous signature thin-crust pizzas are made to satisfy any appetite. (S.M.) $-$$. Cash Only. Handicap access. 543-4606

Marty’s Pizza

extensive wine menu to wash down whichever pie you choose. (R.H.) $$. CC. FB. GF. LT.

Pizza Shuttle

1827 N. Farwell Ave. Pizza, wings, burgers, hot dogs, ribs, chicken, pasta, seafood, gyros, shawarma, pita, subs, wraps, calzone, Stromboli… every sort of greasy appetizer, garlic bread, bread sticks, homemade soups, salads, sundaes, shakes, malts, floats, cheesecake, funnel cake, cookies, soda and beer are on the vast menu. Best Of awards—for Delivery/Take-Out Menu, Late Night and Cheap Eats—fill a wall. The retro dine-in area has a front wall of windows, a classic photo booth and a Pac-Man video game. (J.S.) $-$$. CC. LT. Handicap access. 289-9993

16630 W. Bluemound Road, Brookfield, 262-782-5830 2580 Sun Valley Drive, Delafield, 262-646-3327 Since 1957, Marty’s Pizza transitioned from celebrated pizza place to beloved institution by serving up traditional Italian American comfort food in a casual atmosphere at affordable prices. Nearly 60 years later, Marty’s Pizza boasts locations in Delafield and Brookfield and a successful catering business that includes hosting special events and offering online ordering. And while Marty’s has clearly embraced the changing times, recent visits to the Brookfield location revealed that the local favorite retained much of its old-fashioned charm without being outdated with a menu of subs, burgers and Italian entrées along with pizza. (E.P.) $-$$. CC. RS. Handicap access.

Pizzeria Piccola

Papa Luigi’s

509 E. Erie St. Pizza and a view. Most people would call that a perfect combination, and the Third Ward’s Riverfront Pizzeria delivers this experience like no other pizza shop in town. While it is perfectly acceptable to dine in specifically for the lakefront view, the real star of the show is of course the delicious, cheesy, doughy pizza, which comes in many varieties, including Thai Chicken, BLT, Taco and Cheeseburger, among many more. (R.H.) $$. CC. FB. OD. Handicap access. 277-1800

3475 E. Layton Ave. A large bustling place occupying a full corner on Cudahy’s main street, Papa Luigi’s contemporary setting is aurally accented by the melodrama of Italian pop music. Known for thin crispy curst, Papa’s pizza comes in 8-, 12-, 14- and 16-inch sizes and covers the full flavor spectrum with a few surprises. On one extreme, you can order a veggie pizza with cheese, mushrooms, onions, green peppers and black olives; on the other, a “meat lovers pizza” topped with pepperoni, sausage, ground beef and Canadian bacon. The chicken Alfredo, chicken Parmigiana, Sicilian and Margherita form a Team Italy of tasty options. The Sicilian combines fine Italian cheese with spicy Italian sausage and a pleasant hint of olive oil. (D.L.) $-$$. FB. 483-6111

Pizza Man

2597 N. Downer Ave., 272-1745 7974 S. Main Street, Oak Creek, 856-1000 11500 W. Burleigh St., 249-2000 Pizza Man’s Downer Avenue location puts them in the direct company of fellow trendy Milwaukeebased chains such as BelAir Cantina and Café Hollander. The pizza menu boasts 16 specialty pies, ranging from the fairly conventional Pizza Man Special to the vegetarian friendly pesto pizza, as well as a build your own menu if none of the specialties fit your palate. Pizza Man also has an

7606 W. State St., 443-0800 5300 S. Howell Ave., Mitchell International Airport, Concourse C Extra thin, crispy crusts and personal-sized pizzas are the specialty of Pizzeria Piccola. As a Bartolotta-owned restaurant, it shouldn’t be a surprise to find delicious gourmet ingredients topping some very creative pizza options. For example, try the Chicken Sausage pizza topped with perfectly seasoned ground chicken sausage, provolone, gorgonzola, shaved celery, and toasted pine nuts. So good! Enjoy in the rustic self-service, 2nd floor dining room or charming patio, in season. (S.H.G.) $$. CC. OD. GF. Handicap access.

Riverfront Pizzeria Bar & Grill

Riverwest Pizza

932 E. Wright St. Everything about this cozy, relatively new addition to Riverwest’s pizza scene is tasteful, and the ingredients must be some of the freshest in the city—it all tastes like it just came from the farmers market. Each pizza is named after a neighborhood street. The clear standout here is the Fratney, a savory pie topped with duck, goat cheese and arugula, though the elegant Bremen, with its constellation of kale, mushrooms, tomato and mozzarella, is a wonderful lighter alternative. Either way, start your meal off with an appetizer of fried Brussels sprouts. (E.R.) $-$$. 269-9703

The Roman Candle Pizzeria 133 E. Silver Spring Drive At the Whitefish Bay location of the Madisonbased chain, more than 50 items or ingredients 5 2

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on the menu are sourced by Wisconsin purveyors. No surprise, the main attraction here is pizza. The crust style is hand-tossed and available in three sizes, but that’s only the beginning of the options. There are seven different pizza sauces, five different cheeses (all from Wisconsin) and a lengthy list of toppings including fresh beets, walnuts, grassfed beef and even pineapple-chipotle drizzle. Roman Candle also offers takeout and delivery. (K.L.L.) $-$$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 964-3000

Sal’s Pizza

2974 N. Oakland Ave., 967-8040 2040 W. Wisconsin Ave., 3449931 Sal’s Pizza is famous for its hand-tossed, foldable, flavorful New York-style pizza. The menu doesn’t end there though—Sal’s also offers classic Italian staples like ravioli, chicken parmesan, calzones, and meatball parmesan sandwiches. If you’re at Sal’s, make a note to try their handmade garlic knots, which, for the initiated, are incentive enough to choose Sal’s over the other pizza places in town. Gluten-free crust is available. (E.E.) $-$$. GF.

San Giorgio Pizzeria Napoletana

838 N. Old World Third St. The Downtown Calderone Club opened a Neapolitan-style pizzeria next door in the former Thai Palace space and obtained VPN certification by the Naples-based Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. To get certified, pizzerias must adhere to strict standards in ingredients, methods and equipment in order to faithfully recreate Naplesstyle pizza. The wood-burning oven, imported from Italy, will cook pizzas in about a minute and a half at blistering temperature, resulting in the leopard spot-like char on the crust called cornicione. Ten varieties of pizza are offered. Margherita has tomatoes from San Marzano, Italy, fresh mozzarella, basil and extra virgin olive oil. The restaurant’s namesake pizza forgoes tomatoes for a splash of olive oil along with braised fennel, pancetta, mozzarella and an egg cracked in the middle. Appetizers, soup, panini, meatballs and rotisserie meats are also on the menu. (L.M.) $$. 276-2876

Santino’s Little Italy

352 E. Stewart St. Santino’s focuses on pizzas baked in a woodfired oven imported from Italy. The crust of the Neapolitan-style pizzas is made with Caputo flour, an Italian brand of finely ground wheat favored by the best pizza restaurants in Naples. The Margherita pizza, topped with tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil, is a traditional favorite. Other options include Melanzana with grilled eggplant and oregano, Diavolo with salami, cayenne and red bell peppers, and an Italian beef and giardiniera-topped pie. Antipasti, salads and a few pasta dishes are also available, including pasta with a giant, 10-ounce meatball. (L.M.) $$. FB. 897-7367

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Transfer Pizzeria Café

101 W. Mitchell St. A rehabbed jewel of a building with tile floors, multiple levels and much sunlight through big windows, Transfer features hand-tossed pizza in three dozen varieties from ordinary cheese and sausage to extraordinary creations such as Thai chicken with peanut sauce and the DaVinci with pesto, feta and asiago. If that’s not enough, Transfer offers 44 additional toppings, including pan-fried potatoes, smoked gouda and vegan cheese. Transfer supports local artists; the walls are hung with local photography and painting and jazz combos hold forth on Tuesday and Thursday evenings. (D.L.) $-$$. FB. GF. RS (6+). Handicap access. 763-0438

Upper Crust Pizza

249 E. Hampton Ave. Some takeout rules are nonnegotiable, one being that on a lazy Saturday night or at the end of the hectic workday, everyone needs a good pizza place in their carryout roster. Upper Crust Pizza is one such place. Upper Crust Pizza offers every item one could expect from a pizza place, from pasta and hoagies to burgers and fried appetizers. And while Upper Crust Pizza serves up its share of Buffalo wings and garlic bread, its draw remains its popular pizza. Offering hand-tossed or thin-crust, Upper Crust Pizza provides a variety of special pies including the Hawaiian, the Mediterranean, the Garden Harvest and the Upper Crust Special. Covered in a mild sauce and plenty of sausage, the Upper Crust Special is one of Upper Crust Pizza’s better pizzas to consider. $-$$. (E.P.)

Vinchi’s Pizza

3158 S. Howell Ave. It’s alright if you’re a little confused. Vinchi’s Pizza shares a location with The Bubbler, a popular, refreshingly unpretentious Bay View neighborhood tap, but it’s a completely separate business from the bar. That setup may not inspire confidence, but Vinchi’s is the real deal. The crust is thin and dusted with cornmeal, the sauce is rich and zesty, and the toppings are generous. All bars should be so lucky to have a pizzeria this good crashing in their back room. $-$$. FB. (E.R.) 384-8040

Wy’east Pizza

5601 W. Vliet St. Crisp and slightly charred, Wy’east Pizza’s artisan crust provides a welcoming base for its savory tomato sauce. Covered in melted mozzarella and pecorino cheese, the red pies include the likes of the Hogsback, a pleasing arrangement of sausage and red onion, and the enthusiastically recommended Hot Marmot, a delicious combination of fresh garlic, pepperoni and sweet hot peppers. (E.P.) OD. 943-3278

Zaffiro’s Pizza

1724 N. Farwell Ave. Eating at Zaffiro’s Pizza’s first location on Farwell Avenue. is a rite of passage for anyone who’s recently migrated to the East Side of Milwaukee. Zaffiro’s is exceptionally conducive to camaraderie,

DINING GUIDE with its atmosphere steeped in Milwaukee history. The restaurant features traditional Italian comfort food, including their unmistakable and patented pizza pies, a phenomenal meatball sandwich, spaghetti, ravioli, tortellini, and spumoni for dessert. Zaffiro’s also boasts a full bar, so if you’re looking to kick back with friends at the end of a long day, it doesn’t get much better. (E.E.) $-$$. CC. RS (10+). FF. FB. LT. Handicap access. 289-8776

POLISH Polonez Restaurant

La Isla

3500 W. National Ave. La Isla offers homey Puerto Rican fare in a casual setting. The specialty is mofongo, mashed plantains with garlic in the shape of a ball and served with a choice of meat. The mofongo can also be filled with shrimp in a garlicky Creole sauce. Pork and fried chicken are also prominent in this menu. Daily specials tend to be slow-cooked stews varying from chicken and beef to pork tripe with green bananas. This is honest Puerto Rican fare. Most items include rice and beans or a simple salad. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. NA. 882-7003

4016 S. Packard Ave. Polonez remains a favorite place for pierogi, Polish sausage, borscht and dill pickle soup, but the restaurant’s stick-to-the-ribs Polish comfort food menu has been augmented in recent years with new items that pivot toward lighter and vegetarian, including poached salmon and chicken breast served in white butter and wine sauce. An array of Polish beer remains a draw. Try the Saturday night and Sunday afternoon all-you-can-eat polka buffet. (D.L.) $$. CC. GF. FB. FF. RS. SB. Handicap access. 482-0080

El Rincon Criollo

POLYNESIAN

SEAFOOD

The Love Shack

American Serb Hall

106 W. Seeboth St. Polynesian-inspired food and cocktails abound at The Love Shack. The two-story space located on the river was formerly home to Wine Maniacs. The space has been completely remodeled, with palm trees, volcanos and palapa umbrellas on the patio. The food menu includes about a dozen dishes, from Spam musubi, popular in Hawaii, to shrimp skewers with pineapple, scallion and sticky chive rice. Cocktails include many classic tiki choices like the mai tai, as well as some originals, all served in novelty glassware. The second floor houses a smaller space called The Rhum Bar with its own cocktail menu, patio and lounge atmosphere. (L.M.) FB. OD. $$. 897-8392

PUERTO RICAN Café El Sol

1408 W. Windlake Ave. A good a place to start on the menu is the roast pork dinner. A whopping portion of juicy loin takes up at least a quarter of the Styrofoam box in which orders arrive from behind the counter. Two huge fried chips of mashed plantain rest atop a range of yellow rice liberally dotted with pigeon peas and bits of smoky pork alongside a cup of beans and potatoes. Comforting and enchanting are great terms to describe El Rincon’s soulful meals. (J.L.R.) 383-2437

5101 W. Oklahoma Ave. The Friday fish fry at American Serb Hall is more than a meal—it’s an event. Whether you’re chowing down on deep-fried cod, baked cod, perch, pollock, shrimp, chicken or Serb Hall’s specialty, spicy Serbian-style baked fish, you’ll take home memories as well as a doggie bag. For those pressed for time, use the convenient drive-through. (L.K.) $$. CC. FB. FF. 545-6030

The Anchorage Restaurant

4700 N. Port Washington Road The address and name are all that remains of the old restaurant. Now the resident eatery of the Holiday Inn Milwaukee Riverfront Hotel (formerly The Hilton), The Anchorage received a modern facelift but hangs on to its namesake and a reputation of more than 35 years of good food. The Anchorage’s menu is mostly traditional, a common format for most hotel restaurants, offering a well-rounded range of items to satisfy travelers as well as locals. Many seafood preparations are considered signature items, such as pecan-crusted walleye and bacon-wrapped scallops. The restaurant also features some upscale culinary surprises such as prime steaks. (K.L.L.) $$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 962-6040

Devon Seafood+Steak

5715 N. Bayshore Drive (in Bayshore Town Center) Among the first restaurants to open in the revamped Bayshore Town Center, Devon is part of a chain, but its luxuriant seating and tranquil setting will make you feel otherwise. Of special note

are jumbo crab cakes that are all about the meat. Dinners lean somewhat toward the upper end of the price spectrum, but lunch deals are affordable. Try one of the Power Lunch Combos for $10. The combos include items like lobster tamale, smoked salmon flatbread and half of a crab melt, among others, and come with a side salad or a bowl of soup. The tasty soups include lobster bisque. (D.L.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 967-9790

Harbor House

550 N. Harbor Drive The only lakefront restaurant in the city, Harbor House’s prime location skirts the state constitution by existing on city-owned former bed land. A deal with the city and harbor board allows them to use the area, however, and they use it well, offering an extensive seafood menu with a remarkable view of the shoreline and lake. Fine dining has been a fixture at this site since Pieces of Eight opened there in 1969. (M.J.P.) $$$-$$$$. CC. OD. RS. SB. Handicap access. 395-4900

Pier 106 Seafood Tavern

106 W. Wells St. With a cozy patio just north of the Wells Street Bridge on the west bank of the river, Pier 106 doesn’t offer the same kind of whooping party atmosphere as other outdoor dining spots along the Riverwalk. But with a higher-end seafood menu including seared scallops, baked sea bass, and a terrific lobster mac ‘n’ cheese, the dining experience here is best taken with a bit of subtlety and reserve. Downtown Milwaukee’s crooked streets give the patio a head-on view of East Wells Street, including the Pabst Theater, City Hall and old Electric Railway & Light building (now the Milwaukee Rep’s Powerhouse Theater). (M.J.P.) $$. FB. OD. 273-7678

St. Paul Fish Company

400 N. Water St. Located inside the Milwaukee Public Market, St. Paul Fish offers a wide range of seafood for the home cook. It also has full-service dining. Oysters on the half shell are served over shaved ice and the steamed lobsters and fried clams bring back fond memories of New England. There are many sandwiches as well as grilled seafood entrées. (J.B.) $$. CC. FF. Handicap access. 220-8383

Third Coast Provisions

724 N. Milwaukee St. Seafood is the focus of the menu, which includes selections from a raw bar on the lower level of the restaurant. Diners looking for a special night out will enjoy the posh, glittering interior full of gold leaf-flecked mirrors, silver wall patterns and white marble tables. Chargrilled oysters are a house specialty and can be prepared classic Rockefeller style with spinach, pernod, Parmesan and bacon; Milwaukee style with pastrami, garlic, shallot and beer; or simply with roasted garlic butter. Lobster potholes, an appetizer similar to escargots, bathes chunks of lobster and crab in garlic herb butter with brioche for dipping. A number of fin fish are

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available, from Lake Superior whitefish to Atlantic monkfish. (L.M.) $$$. FB. 323-7434

Twisted Fisherman Crab Shack

1200 W. Canal St. Barnacle Bud’s has long been Milwaukee’s go-to destination for beachy ambiance and riverside food and drinks, but the Menomonee Valley’s too-easily-overlooked Twisted Fisherman deserves a spot in the city’s heart, too. The food is a touch more upscale than Buds’ plastic-basket fare, with a solid fish fry and a surf-and-turf option for big spenders, and the drinks are unabashedly sweet and boozy. After a couple of them on the bar’s sunny patio you’ll feel like you’re on vacation, even if you have to report to work a half mile away the next morning. (E.R.) $$. CC. OD. FB. Handicap access. 384-2722

SERBIAN Fritz’s Pub

3086 S. 20th St. This corner bar offers bureks, pork shish kabob, tasty Serbian sausage and a Fritzburger of veal and beef. The fish fry includes homemade rye bread and choice of beer-battered cod or haddock, served alongside seasoned potato wedges, onionfilled coleslaw, tangy tartar sauce and that freshly baked rye. The batter is thin and crisp and is what keeps the phone ringing off the hook with takeout orders. (L.M.) $. CC. FF. Handicap access. 643-6995

Moonshine Pub & Grill

3300 S. 27th St. A corner bar on a busy business strip, Moonshine has a distinction: In addition to the standard pub and grill fare, a Serbian menu is served from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Dishes include such favorites as chicken paprikash, cevapi and a Serbian burger ground from veal, beef and pork. Carnivores will devour the mesano meso, a grilled meat combo with sausages, shish-kabob and more. Vegetarians have several options including appetizers such as the delicious red peppers in oil and garlic and the Serbian salad, a chunky mélange of cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and feta cheese served with a hot loaf of bread accompanied by ajvar (made from eggplant and red peppers) and kajmak (a cheese-butter spread). Phone ahead for the bigenough-for-two spinach burek, requiring an hour to bake. (D.L.) $-$$. FB. 231-9168

Old Town Serbian Gourmet House

522 W. Lincoln Ave. 2018 is the year when Old Town, now in its second generation as a family business, will undergo a gradual process of renovation and repair for its historic 1912 building. The lunch and dinner menus will continue to focus on Serbian favorites such as burek and chicken paprikash and fusion dishes such as the tasty Beograd burger served on pita bread. Be sure to try the brimming Serbian salad

DINING GUIDE composed of diced tomatoes, onions and feta cheese. On Friday the Serbian baked fish is a treat. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. FF. RS. 672-0206

itself to the community, there is even a happy hour every Friday from 4-6 p.m. (A.M.) $-$$. OD. 224-3200

amazing? I think they seat you with strangers on purpose!” Soup Bros is a perfect to congregate over a substantial bowl of luscious soup. (J.S.) 270-1040

Three Brothers Restaurant

Indulge

The Soup House

2414 S. St. Clair St. This former Schlitz corner tavern, a Bay View landmark, deserves a visit. Tables are crowded and the kitchen is slow, but the Serbian food is mostly worth the wait. Bureks are huge and sarma (stuffed cabbage) always pleases. (J.B.) $$-$$$. Cash Only. FB. Handicap access. 481-7530

SCANDANAVIAN Valhalla

1111 N. Old World Third St. Owned by the same folks as the Wisconsin Cheese Mart, Valhalla is a Scandinavian restaurant and Nordic tap house. Guests can order from a small menu of snacks and sandwiches surrounded by décor of shields and helmets. Salads and pickles make up most of the snacks, but Swedish meatballs served on dumpling egg noodles also make an appearance. Smorebrod, a type of open-faced Danish sandwich, comes in six varieties, such as the skagenrora shrimp salad with creamy dill dressing. Lefse, a tortilla-like potato flatbread, is served as a platter with cinnamon-sugar butter, lignonberries, honey and Nutella. Five kinds of aquavit, a liqueur made caraway or dill, are available as a flight or in various cocktails, like the Lokitini, which is shaken with lime. Beer, mead and ciders are available from Sweden, Iceland and Denmark, along with local favorites. (L.M.) $. FB. 249-3046

SMALL PLATES/ TAPAS Balzac

1716 N. Arlington Place The preferred beverage at Balzac is wine, although the beer list is also extensive. The experience is enhanced with international small plates, flatbread pizzas and cheese plates. The wine list is thicker than the menu. Coq au vin chicken wings and lamb croquettes are among the many delights. The outdoor tables are a quiet refuge in summertime. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. LT. OD. RS. Handicap access. 755-0099

East End Wine Bar

700 N. Art Museum Drive As part of its extensive renovation, the Milwaukee Art Museum opened the East End Wine Bar with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan. The menu is small plates topped with desserts from Rocket Baby. Also on hand is a fine list of imported and craft beer and wine and gourmet tea from Rare Tea Cellar. As part of the museum’s efforts to open

708 N. Milwaukee St. The choices here are charcuterie, wine or chocolate. Indulge in a wine selected from more than 300 vintages and a charcuterie menu that ranges from duck prosciutto to speck and Serrano ham. The chocolate is merely the icing on the cake. Indulge! (J.B.) $$$$. CC. LT. OD. RS. Handicap access. 390-9463

La Merenda

125 E. National Ave. When La Merenda opened in 2007, small plate dining was unfamiliar to most Milwaukeeans but the cozy Walker’s Point restaurant soon took the lead in exposing the city to the delights of tapas. The menu evolves seasonally, draws from a host of Wisconsin ingredients and includes vegetarian, seafood, poultry and red meat selections. With its colorfully mismatched tables and chairs and friendly but unobtrusive service, La Merenda is the perfect place for an unhurried meal among friends. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. GF. OD. RS. Handicap access. 389-0125

Odd Duck

2352 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Odd Duck offers hints of Asia, Europe and the Mediterranean in its daily changing menu of small plate items, as well as a selection of local charcuterie and cheeses. For the lightest of appetites, try a sample of the house-made dilly beans or even a pickled egg. The menu of the day might offer squash empanadas, seared scallops and goudastuffed dates. Whatever is offered will be worth ordering. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. Handicap access. 763-5881

Wauwatiki Bar & Grill

6502 W. North Ave. The colorfully illustrated beverage menu is clearly the central focus and surely Wauwatiki’s raison d’être. This menu is divided into Classics, Bowls and Signature drinks. Among the Classics are such tiki bar calling cards as Mai Tai and Singapore Sling. The dinner menu offers a selection of small plates including pork dumplings, steamed edamame pods, tuna poke (served raw, island-style with wasabi teriyaki and others. There are also sandwiches and skillet entrées including steak, jerk chicken, cilantro-lime shrimp and a garlic-balsamic marinated grilled vegetable ensemble. (J.J.) $$. FB. GF. Handicap access. 323-7555

SOUP Soup Bros

209 W. Florida St. On some days the soup line runs from the kitchen, where you order, to the entrance, filling the shop. And then a smiling woman might give up her seat at an eight-seater table and say, “Isn’t this 5 4

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324 E. Michigan St. High-ceilinged, open and welcoming, The Soup House’s interior is painted sky blue and decked out in eclectic, artsy furnishings, with potted plants along the ample windows. Attractive partitions make the dining area cozy and somewhat private, but leave its spaciousness unchecked. Six delicious rotating soups are the principal cause for this inspired establishment, but simple sandwiches, cookies and salads are also available. Enjoy a conversation with friends or peruse one of the many interesting books lying around, while you take in the rich and varied flavors of The Soup House. (S.M.) $. Cash only. OD. NA. GF. 277-7687

The Soup Market

440 N. Water St., Milwaukee Public Market, 276-4444 2211 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 727-8462 5301 S. 108th St., 529-8534 5330 W. Vliet St., 727-0699 111 Kilbourn Ave., 727-0700 The Soup Market (called The Soup & Stock Market at its Water Street location) offers tasty home-style selections. Pick up one of the seven or eight daily soups, a baked potato, sweet potato or a hearty slice of quiche at the Public Market branch, and dine upstairs where ample seating is available with an attractive view of the Milwaukee River and Third Ward. Bulk ingredients are also for sale and Haley & Annabelle’s Vanilla Root Beer makes a smooth and unique beverage complement to any dish, with proceeds going to the namesakes’ college funds! (S.M.) $. CC. NA.

Zoup!

1433 N. Jefferson St. The Michigan-based Zoup! Recently opened its first Milwaukee location. Zoup!’s menu boasts hundreds of soups, including standouts like lobster bisque, collard green chicken barley and “Blazin’ Bison Chili,” with 12 varieties rotating on a daily basis. If you don’t find your match with any of soups d’jour, salads and sandwiches provide a tasty alternative. Offerings such as the quinoa veggie wrap and the smoked and cheesy maple ham & bacon set Zoup! Apart from other soup and sandwich chains. (R.H.) $. 944-7500.

are Southern fried chicken and waffles served with four chicken wings, gumbo and jambalaya. The pork chops, two 8-ounce center cuts of pork, come either smothered or fried with two sides and cornbread. The sides are home-style Southern cuisine at its best and include choices of collard greens, candy yams, mac ‘n’ cheese, rice and gravy, and red beans and rice. (A.M.) $$. CC. FB. SB. FF. RS. Handicap access. 882-7708

Hot Head Fried Chicken

2671 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. Bumstead Provisions changed format and rebranded itself as Hot Head Fried Chicken. The space has been redecorated with refinished wood tables, antique farm tools, and Edison bulb and wooden pallet chandeliers. Fried chicken is the focus, and it can be made three ways: Southern fried; Carolina gold with a mustard-based sauce; or Nashville hot, with a bright red cayenne glaze. Buy it by the piece and add Southern-inspired sides like creamy cheese grits or salted watermelon. Cheddar and smoked gouda mac ‘n’ cheese can be topped with little bits like fried chicken or Cajun shrimp for an addition charge. (L.M.) $$. 808-04181 hotheadwi. com

Maxie’s

Mr. Perkins’ Family Restaurant

SOUTHERN/ SOUL FOOD

2001 W. Atkinson Ave. Established in 1969, the restaurant adheres to an old-school aesthetic and approach that works: fantastic food, excellent service, and an incredibly friendly ambiance. Everything is made from scratch; each entrée comes with two sides, of which there are nearly a dozen from which to choose. Mr. Perkins’ only operates in the morning and afternoon. Business rarely lulls. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC. FF. Handicap accessible 447-6660

Chic Underground Lounge

Monterrey Smoke House

770 N. Jefferson St., lower level Chic Underground Lounge’s unique location on the lower level of the building on Jefferson between Wells and Mason adds to the allure of the jazz and blues club that is reminiscent of the basement lounges in New Orleans. Among dinner choices

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

551 W. Becher St. Soul food connotes hominess and comfort. But it can be presented with a more formally elegant approach. Such is the case with Monterrey. Chefowner Dion Jefferson, has established an oasis of urban cool on the near South Side. The steamed,

DINING GUIDE non-fatty way collard greens are served here gives Monterrey a high mark. The Monterey Burger, perhaps so named at least in part for the slice of jack cheese on its thick patty, is impressive. In a recent daily gumbo special, pieces of firm Andouille sausage and tender chicken fight for taste buds’ attention amid mildly spiced broth. That isn’t where Jefferson’s appreciation for Cajun eating ends, either, as jambalaya over pasta numbers among Monterrey’s array of entrées. Desserts also maintain Monterrey’s Southernness. (J.L.R.) $$. FB. 467-4943

Palomino

2491 S. Superior St. A great place for sitting outside in summer with a dark, cozy interior perfect for winter, Palomino’s menu despite changes still sounds Southern at heart, offering po’ boy sandwiches and smoked brisket. Offerings include homemade biscuits, fried pickles, brisket and fried chicken with gravy. Sides complete the entrées with tater tots, mac ‘n’ cheese, mashed potatoes and Brussels sprouts. A Wisconsin accent can he heard in the fried cheese curds. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. FF. SB. 747-1007

Pass Da Peas

7870 W. Appleton Ave. One might expect an eatery named for a hit by James Brown to excel at soul food. Pass Da Peas lives up to expectations. Steak and chicken smothered in gravy, meat loaf, fried catfish and tilapia—and less pricy lunches such as a wings meal—comprise much of the menu. The salmon croquettes make for a fine supper; a side of greens can come as collards or a lip-smacking combo of turnip and mustard, lightly speckled with pork but none the greasier for the meaty addition. Blackeyed peas (a natural choice considering the place’s name) aren’t as smoky as they can be elsewhere in the city, but are flavorful with only a hint of soupiness. (J.L.R.) $-$$. 393-0992

Rock Country

11400 W. Silver Spring Drive Owner Brian Ward of Ward’s House of Prime and Point Burger Bar books local Southern rock and country bands. The menu reflects the music, with various barbecue, chicken wing and fried chicken options. Kansas City-style pulled pork is available as a platter (or sandwich). That pulled pork also appears on nachos with the usual toppings. Nashville hot chicken comes in either a four-piece dinner with fries and slaw, or as chicken and waffles. Frozen cocktails and a long list of whiskey and Scotch will keep concert-goers hydrated. (L.M.) $$-$$$. FB. 758-5101

SPANISH Amilinda

315 E. Wisconsin Ave. Amilinda’s Spanish-Portuguese inspired menu is drawn from tradition and the travels of chef/coowner Gregory León. Bravo to Chef León for doing fewer menu items, doing them well and changing

them often. León works with local farmers, taking what is in season and creating an abbreviated menu that doesn’t have so many choices it makes your head spin. There are five to six items in each of the two categories, almost everything is made in house (the bread comes from Rocket Baby, another plus in my book) and although you may see Yukon potatoes on three of the five dishes, each dish has their own inspiration of ingredients. Amilinda is a great place to make friends, meet friends and enjoy a fantastic meal that changes daily, keeping you wanting more. (A.M.) $$-$$$. CC. RS. Handicap access. 369-3683

Bodegon

600 S. Sixth St. The sister restaurant to Movida, Bodegon is a Spanish fine dining spot in Walker’s Point. The word bodegon means home cooking restaurant and implies a rustic touch on the menu. Steaks, mostly from Ney’s Big Sky, are the dinner focus, like the 32-ounce, bone-in ribeye that’s dry-aged in house. An octopus appetizer features balsamic vinegar, orange and fennel for a light starter. Bodegon also features a chef’s table to watch the open kitchen in action and a wine cellar underground. Expect a well-curated wine list, cocktails that feature homemade ingredients and molecular gastronomy components, and sangria and vermouth on tap. (L.M.) $$$$. FB. 488-9146

Movida

524 S. Second St. The menu embodies the heart and soul of Spain. Most dishes are small portions encouraging diners to sample and share. Start with assorted tapas including olives and peppers, clams with artichoke, white wine and butter, or a tartare of beef tenderloin with truffle oil, quail yolk and shallot. Tablas feature Spanish cheeses including manchego, a hard sheep’s milk cheese, and Mahon, a salty cow’s milk cheese. In the Cena category you’ll find pork cheek, octopus, braised short ribs or scallops. (J.R.) $$-$$$$. FB. RS. 224-5300

STEAKHOUSES Capital Grille

310 W. Wisconsin Ave. This high-end chain sets the standard for dry-aged steaks and fresh seafood. Maine lobsters run as large as five pounds. The Milwaukee branch also has a fine setting with dark woodwork and attentive service. Steaks rank with the best locally. No detail is too small, from the heirloom tomatoes on the fresh mozzarella salad to the Courvoisier cognac cream on the steak au poivre. The place seems made for expense accounts. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. GF. Handicap access. 223-0600

Carnevor

718 N. Milwaukee St. If you love a good steak, Carnevor ranks with the best steak in the city of Milwaukee. It all starts

with the great quality of beef from Allen Brothers Prime Steaks as well as SURG Restaurant Group’s Hidden Creek Farm. But Carnevor’s mission to serve the finest meat in the city doesn’t stop at beef, they also serve mangalitsa pork, known for being exceptionally, juicy, tender and marbled. If beef isn’t enough, why not top it with foie gras, truffle butter or a fried organic egg. Don’t forget about one of the many steak house sides, large enough for sharing, including truffle mashed, risotto and the popular Carnevor steak fries with garlic aioli. (A.M.) $$$$. CC. FB. RS. Handicap access. 223-2200

Dream Dance Steak

1712 W. Canal St. Dream Dance is the showcase restaurant of Potawatomi Hotel and Casino. There are champagne and cognac carts as well as a tremendous wine list. The approach is contemporary with a focus on American ingredients. Whether you choose seared scallops or a rack of venison, everything will be prepared with respect and skill. The décor is of contemporary luxury, the cutlery ultra-pricey and everything from the amusebouche to dessert, an exercise in good taste. The prices rank with the most expensive but this is a worthy splurge. (J.B.) $$$$. CC. FB. Handicap access. 847-7883

Eddie Martini’s

8612 Watertown Plank Road Frank and Dino could have used Eddie Martini’s bar as their watering hole. The drinks are potent enough to power the happy hour neon and the atmosphere is always dark and cool behind impenetrable Venetian blinds. The Rat Pack would have dug the swinging music, not to mention the steaks and chops and the escargot and seafood. Everything’s A-OK. (D.L.) $$$$. CC. FB. RS. OD. Handicap access. 771-6680

Five O’Clock Steakhouse

2416 W. State St. Between its retro décor and quirky ordering system, the Five O’Clock Steakhouse offers a unique dining experience. Diners order at the bar while enjoying a pre-meal drink. When they arrive at their table, their salad will be waiting for them, along with fresh sourdough bread and a full relish tray. Though the menu offers seafood, lamb and pork, the steaks are the obvious no-brainer here. They’re cooked on high heat so even the rarest orders develop a phenomenal char that seals in the juices, then topped with butter sautéed mushrooms. The décor may be outdated, but these steaks are timeless. (E.R.) $$$$. CC. RS. FB. 342-3553

Jackson Grill

3736 W. Mitchell St. A cozy establishment, Jackson Grill resembles a 1940s supper club. Start with an appetizer of Cajun barbecue shrimp, more than enough for two. French cognac salad dressing has a retro steakhouse feel. The Black Angus filet is one of the best steaks found locally, seared on the outside and perfect medium rare in the middle. This is the

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18 •

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place for serious red meat eaters. (J.B.) $$-$$$. CC. FB. FF. OD. RS. 384-7384

Mason Street Grill

425 E. Mason St. A wood-fired grill, sounds of light, live jazz music, an outdoor patio, gorgeous inner décor and friendly and attentive service all combine to make the Mason Street Grill ensconced in the Pfister Hotel a great place for lunch or dinner. Open seven days a week, it’s also a great place for a late-evening snack or imbibition (the kitchen’s open ‘til 9 p.m. Sunday and 10 p.m. Monday-Saturday). Seating at the Chef’s Counter enables diners to view up close and personal hustle and bustle of kitchen staff. The eclectic menu is highlighted by the house specialties, including oysters on the halfshell or Rockefeller-style and dinners like Strauss Veal Striploin Oscar. (J.J.) $$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. OD. Handicap access. 298-3131

Milwaukee ChopHouse

633 N. Fifth St., Milwaukee Hilton Hotel The upscale steakhouse has the meat to match the prices, from the veal chop to the bone-in rib-eye steak. The range of items includes seafood and chicken. But appetizers and side items also shine from ahi tuna crudo to grilled asparagus. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. V. Handicap access. 226-2467

Milwaukee Steakhouse

6024 W. Bluemound Road Bring on the big steaks, thick pork chops and jumbo shrimp. The king of steaks is a 28-ounce porterhouse. Good luck finishing it. Entrées all include mushrooms, a relish tray, soup or salad, sourdough bread and a choice of potato. Order a baked potato and slather it with sour cream. Steaks and the Thursday and Saturday prime rib special are the best to order here. If your focus is on succulent beef and abundant quantity, this is your steakhouse. (J.B.) $$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. Handicap access. 312-7891

Mr. B’s Steakhouse

18380 W. Capitol Drive In a time when we are enamored with small plates for sharing and the newest trends, it’s good to step back and remember the places that give us timehonored dining tradition with style and delivered on all the expectations of a good steak house. Mr. B’s has outstanding service from the staff knowledgeable on menu and wine, a warm and casual interior of dark wood, low lighting and hint of the Italian heritage from the green and white checkered tablecloths. It’s a welcome throwback. The menu has the classic steakhouse fare and a variety of offerings in every category. (A.M.) $$$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. GF. Handicap Access. 262-790-7005

Mo’s: A Place for Steaks

720 N. Plankinton Ave. This is the original Mo’s, which now has outposts in Indianapolis and Houston. The prices and setting all say upscale. Start with a retro wedge of salad, then move to bacon-wrapped sea scallops and a

DINING GUIDE “McAlpine” rib-eye for an entrée. Sides are extra. (J.B.) $$$$. CC. RS. FB. Handicap access. 272-0720

Rare

833 E Michigan St. It was immediately apparent that customer service is as important at Rare as the food in providing an ultra-fine dining experience. Rare’s atmosphere has an elegant and sophisticated look. The wine list is as impressive as the service. The menu is vast with selections in each category from starters to other meat and seafood options, but the stars at Rare are the steaks. Rare only uses USDA Prime, specific hand cuts and dry aged in their aging locker right onsite. The steaks are seared in an 1,800-degree infrared broiler to get a nice crust on the outside and served au jus. (A.M.) $$$$. CC. FB. RS. GF. Handicap access. 273-7273

Steakhouse 100

7246 W. Greenfield Ave. True to its name, Steakhouse 100 features steaks in a supper-club ambiance with table linen and a basket of hot bread to start. However, the choices are wide-ranging and global: Appetizers include chicken shish-kabob, brie and deep-fried jalapeños along with mozzarella sticks. Alongside 10 steak selections, the menu includes an array of seafood, dinner salads and a “beef ‘n’ reef” heading and offers pilaf as a side dish along with choice of soup and salad. (D.L.) $$-$$$$. CC. FB. FF. RS. Handicap access. 727-2222

Ward’s House of Prime

540 E. Mason St. The bar room of this Downtown destination has a soaring ceiling, a great wine selection and a select list of scotch and cognac. Prime rib is the specialty although chicken, lamb and seafood are served too. The bar has its own menu with lighter fare and some servings the size of tapas. The setting is pleasant, the seating spacious and the service good. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. OD. V. Handicap access. 223-0135

SUBS & SANDWICHES Boo Boo’s

405 S. Second St. Richard Regner, owner of Soup Bros., has opened Boo Boo’s, a sandwich shop. Located right around the corner from Soup Bros in the former Philly Way space, Boo Boo’s serves up a variety of hot and cold sandwiches for lunch and dinner. Regner will be baking the various breads used for the sandwiches, along with sourcing some from local bakeries. Sandwiches include homemade fries. Classics like deli turkey, tuna salad with capers, and grilled liverwurst with onions and mustard are on the menu, plus griddled items like a cheesesteak. The tiny space including the

enclosed patio has been remodeled, but with limited seating. Takeout is a good bet. (L.M.) $. 885-1532

Chubby’s Cheesesteaks

2232 N. Oakland Ave., 287-9999 2147 Miller Park Way, 672-1111 430 W. Silver Spring Drive, 962-9999 605 S. First St., 220-9999 3845 N. 124th St., Brookfield, 262-781-9999 Everything about this sandwich is near perfect. It starts with the Sciortino roll, always so fresh and soft, and extends to the ribeye, which is diced into tiny soft bits like the man at the grill is vehemently working out deep-rooted issues with his barbecue spatula. And then there’s the pleasantly harsh brace of raw onion, the tomatoes swimming through for brightness, the Whiz, cascading about, free to run so many courses due to minimal resistance from such bitty chunks of steak. (T.L.) $. CC. NA. LT.

Cousins Subs

Multiple locations Cousins was among the earliest venues to introduce the submarine sandwich to Milwaukee. The chain (which has since expanded to other Midwest states and even Arizona) features tuna, turkey breast, chicken breast, meatball, four varieties of cheese steaks and many other options all served on fresh Italian bread for a filling and flavorful meal on the run. Cousins also offers gargantuan party subs to take home and services many local delis and coffee shops with its sandwiches. (D.L.) $. CC. NA.

Dr. Dawg

6969 N. Port Washington Road Diners with dietary restrictions are surprisingly well accommodated at this popular fast-food chain, which offers not one but two kinds of vegan sausages (apple wood sage or spicy Mexican chipotle) and a gluten-free version of nearly everything on the menu. Along with the expected chilidogs and Chicago dogs, the menu offers a Wisconsin brat, a Kobe beef dog, hearty chicken sandwiches and Italian beef sandwiches. (E.R.) $. CC. OD. Handicap access. 540-0400

Erbert & Gerbert’s Sandwich Shop

2338 N. Farwell Ave. The best thing about this sandwich and soup shop is the food. The French bread is fresh and tasty, the veggies crisp, the meats plentiful, the sauces well-seasoned and the soup thick and hearty. In a mini-mall just north of east North Avenue and open after hours on weekends, you can carry out or grab a table. On the walls you’ll find original fairy tales with charming illustrations by the franchise’s Eau Claire founder that explain the whimsical names of his delectable concoctions. (J.S.) $. CC. OD. NA. Handicap access. 273-3727 5 6

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Georgie Porgie’s Burger & Custard Treefort

West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe

Sammy’s Taste of Chicago

SUPPER CLUBS

9555 S. Howell Ave., 571-9889 5502 Washington Ave., Mount Pleasant, 262-635-5030 Founded in 1991 by George P. Laipis (1939-2014) and now run by his two sons, this family friendly lunch and dinner spot is dedicated to bringing smiles to all faces with its tree fort decorations, delicious burgers, gyros, chicken sandwiches, salads and freshly made frozen custards. Unique daily custard flavors—such as cherry streusel, Boston creme pie, Mocha Pecan Madness and salted brownie—as well as monthly burger and sundae specials are sure to leave your taste buds singing. The establishment also hosts car shows and supports local nonprofit organizations and community groups. (A.S.) $. CC. OD. Handicap access. 1234 S. 108th St. “High-quality hot dog” is not an oxymoron at Sammy’s Taste of Chicago. The establishment has a nostalgic feel, as it aptly encapsulates the vibe of a ‘90s-era Chicago hotdog stand. Sammy’s runs the whole gamut of savory meats served in buns, including traditional hot dogs, bratwurst, polish sausage, sub sandwiches and Italian beef. If you want to round out your meal and don’t plan on working out for five or six hours after eating, they also offer frosty chocolate milkshakes and golden, well-seasoned French fries. (E.E.) $. CC. OD. 774-0466

Tosa Bowl and Bun

7212 W. North Ave. Offering sandwiches, salads daily entrée and soup specials, this family owned deli celebrates homemade goodness. Entrees include scalloped potatoes and ham, meatloaf, lasagna and a Friday fish fry, while toasted potato soup, tomato zucchini soup, white bean chicken chili and Rueben soup are among the featured daily delights. Hearty and flavorful, the Rueben soup is satisfying without the accompaniment of a sandwich. Served on Sciortino Bakery rolls Tosa Bowl and Bun’s selection of sandwiches contains chicken salad, roasted veggies and the recommended Italian, a classic combination of provolone, ham, salami, pepperoni. For lighter options consider one of the establishment’s seven salads, which are served with homemade dressings and croutons. (E.P.) $. FF. 210-2834

Twisted Bistro

1126 S. 70th St. Jason Joyner and Amber Atlee, owners of the Culinary Twists food cart, opened the Twisted Bistro in 2014. The Culinary Twists cart, seen at farmers’ markets all around town in 2013, was known for creative hot dogs and fresh, madefrom-scratch foods. The Twisted Bistro keeps the hot dogs and the freshness but expands the food offerings to include breakfast, sandwiches, burgers, soups and wraps. Open weekdays. (S.H.G.) $. CC. Handicap access. 316-3000

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

6832 W. Becher St., 543-4230 400 N. Water St., Milwaukee Public Market, 289-8333 The “Shoppe” specializes in its namesakes and right next door to its West Allis location sits its café serving a long list of breakfast items all day long and daily sandwich specials on weekdays. It’s a pleasant, spacious place for sipping a strong cup of coffee or a Bloody Mary, having a conversation or enjoying a meal. The regular lunch menu features stick-to-the-ribs Wisconsin comfort food, including a Reuben, a meatloaf sandwich and Nueske’s liver sausage. The café is one of the few places in town serving that Canadian favorite, poutine, a hearty mix of French fries, cheese curds and gravy fit for any Packers party. (J.L.R.) $. OD.

Alioto’s

3041 N. Mayfair Road White linen tablecloths and tent-folded claretcolored linen napkins set the supper club ambiance. While the lazy susans have disappeared, a basket of sliced Italian bread and a jar of breadsticks appear on each table. The menu is American comfort food with a distinct Italian accent. Go elsewhere if you’re looking for a la carte (rough translation: “little food, big price”). Dinners come with a choice of soup or salad and in some cases, soup and salad plus dessert. For lighter appetites, sandwiches, including a delicious hamburger, are available. (D.L.) $$. CC. FB. FF. GF. RS. Handicap access. 476-6900

Bass Bay Brewhouse

S79 W15851 Aud Mar Drive, Muskego Bass Bay Brewhouse is the quintessential supper club that makes you feel as though you stepped back in time to a much simpler life. Its bar and two-room banquet hall has plenty of seating for all the locals and people from the city that want a more casual dining experience with good, fresh food. It has a simple décor of mason jars filled with fresh flowers on the table, low ceilings with wood beams and an attached patio that is enjoyable in warmer weather for sitting out on the bay. Although casual, the service is still top notch and accommodating. (A.M.) $$-$$$. FB. SB. OD. 377-9449

Clifford’s Supper Club

10418 W. Forest Home Ave. At Clifford’s you’ll experience that winning combination of comfort food and nostalgia. The dark wood paneling, wallpaper and a Formicatopped bar surrounded by bucket seated stools will appeal to patrons who long for days gone by. Clifford’s offers a full complement of classic comfort food with steak, chicken and calves’

DINING GUIDE liver with onions or bacon. Entrées include soup, salad, relish tray and breadbasket. (S.H.G.) $$. FF. FB. Handicap access. 425-6226

Five O’Clock Steakhouse

2416 W. State St. The 5 O’Clock Steakhouse, formerly Coerper’s Five O’ Clock Club, recently passed 70 years as one of Wisconsin’s quintessential supper clubs featuring relish trays, family style salad, charred steaks and great service. In an ever-changing culinary world of small plates, foams, deconstructions, stacks and other trends that come and go, it’s refreshing that you can still find a place for an outstanding steak served up with the same traditions and recipes from decades ago. The décor of multicolored lights, dark wood and Rat Pack music gets you in the mood for the large platters of food pushed on metal carts by impeccably dressed servers. (A.M.) $$$$. CC. RS. FB. 342-3553

Joey Gerard’s

5601 Broad St., Greendale, 858-1900 The Bartolotta Restaurants’ supper club concept has two suburban locations. Start with a lazy susan featuring goodies like cheese, sausage and smoked fish. Beef it up with a cheddar cheese ball, suggesting Wisconsin dining in the 1950s. Steaks and their side dishes dominate the menu, but there are also supper club classics. Both locations are popular, making reservations a must. (J.B.) $$$-$$$$. CC. RS. FB. FF. OD.

The Packing House

900 E. Layton Ave. The Packing House is one of those classic Milwaukee restaurants with top-notch food, pop and jazz in the cocktail lounge, a robust Sunday brunch and a drive-through Friday fish fry option. Service is always professional and even large dinner parties will be served with ease. Steak, rib and seafood lovers will leave satisfied and the famous onion shreds are not to be missed. (L.K.) $$$-$$$$. CC. FB. RS. FF. LT. 483-5054

Sandra’s on the Park

10049 W. Forest Home Ave. Open since May 2015, customers have already discovered many reasons to return to this modern version of a supper club. The cozy, comfortable dining room is an inviting space to enjoy a meal. Start with delicious appetizers or salads. If you are dining with others, at least one person should try Sandra’s house specialty barbecue ribs. Slow-cooked for five hours to just the right amount of tenderness, the meat practically falls off the bone. (S.H.G.) $$-$$$. FB. FF. OD. Handicap access. 235-8889

Victor’s

1230 N. Van Buren St. It looks like a blast from the ‘70s, complete with a disco ball, and while the name continues to conjure up the Average White Band and liaisons from long ago, Victor’s has always had an excel-

lent kitchen. The menu is focused on supper club fare with steak, shrimp de jonghe and chops. Portions are generous, including the Friday fish fry; prime rib smothered with mushrooms is served every day. After 9 p.m., the kitchen closes and the action begins. (D.L.) $$-$$$. CC. FF. FB. 272-2522

THAI AppeThai

3900 W. Brown Deer Road, Suite 110 It’s thoughtfulness that makes eating at AppeThai such a treat, especially when coupled with superbly balanced flavors, something Thai cuisine is well known for but few restaurants actually to achieve. Ever popular pad Thai ($9$14), which is often served in a sickly sweet sauce, is a joy here: tangy from tamarind, savory from pungent fish sauce, and only just enough sweetness from palm sugar. Chiles add a depth of flavor and yes, heat too. This is one of the few Thai restaurants where ordering a dish “hot” will actually leave you sweating. (L.M.) $$. 362-4264

Bangkok House Restaurant

4698 S. Whitnall Ave. This is the spot for Thai purists. Flavors are less spicy, a bit sweeter and oh so right. The squid is cooked to perfection and the shrimp curry has a sauce made in house. The beef-with-beansprouts soup is superbly seasoned. Bangkok House is tops for Thai in the area. (J.B.) $$. CC. RS. LB. Handicap access. 482-9838

EE-Sane

1806 N. Farwell Ave. The main menu is an extensive list of Thai items with noteworthy options such as the fresh spring rolls and curries with more character than usual. But the more interesting menu focuses on Lao specialties. There are green papaya salads (not vegetarian) and meat salads with names such as larb sok lak, numtok and koi beef. Dishes are spiced on a scale of one to 10. Few dare to venture above seven. (J.B.) $-$$. CC. RS. Handicap access. 224-8284

Elephant Café

1505 N. Farwell Ave. In Thailand, the elephant with trunk lifted is a symbol of good fortune. So it is with Elephant Café, with a good variety of traditional Thai favorites. The café is a sister restaurant to EE-Sane and has an extensive menu using fresh ingredients including many dishes with ginger and Thai basil. Elephant Café serves pork, steak, chicken and duck, but is a great place for vegetarians. (A.M.) $-$$. CC. FB. RS. 220-9322

The King & I

830 N. Old World Third St. One of the first Milwaukee Thai restaurants, The King & I remains a good deal more upscale and a touch more expensive than the more casual-

minded Thai eateries that have joined its company. The chic, open layout leaves the kitchen visible from the dining room. The more than 60 menu items include most Thai staples, including noodle dishes and curries as well as some interesting entrées like a yellow curry and mango chicken dish prepared with bell peppers, summer squash and cherry tomatoes. The default flavor of most dishes is mild, making this restaurant a good starter for diners new to Thai cuisine. (E.R.) $$$. CC. RS. FB. LB. OD. 276-4181

Singha Thai

2237 S. 108th St. Tables are covered in rich, royal purple linens; entrées are served on blue-and-white handpainted plates. Singha is the only Thai restaurant in the city that serves hou mok pla: fish filets layered over a bed of Thai basil leaves and cabbage, wrapped and steamed in a fragrant coconut milk curry with undertones of hot pepper. It’s quite unlike anything else on this extensive menu. (J.B.) $$$. CC. LB. RS. Handicap access. 541-1234

Thai Bar-B-Que

3417 W. National Ave. A photo-intensive menu makes ordering easy at Thai Bar-B-Que, a clean and cozy dining room nestled near several other Asian restaurants on National Avenue. Curry dishes are exceptional here. The traditional red and green curries, served with choice of meat or tofu, are loaded with fresh, colorful vegetables and the aroma of fresh herbs. For something more exotic, try the Thai roasted duck with eggplant, tomatoes and pineapple in a spicy red curry sauce. Service is attentive and refreshingly unrushed, with a loquacious wait staff that chats at length with regulars and newcomers alike. (E.R.) $$. CC. RS. 647-0812

Thai Kitchen

2851 N. Oakland Ave. This quiet, homey restaurant with a dozen tables isn’t much to look at but the food is plentiful and inexpensive. Service is quick and friendly. Curries are the house specialty with red the most popular and massaman a close second, my server said, while the hot jungle curry, free of tempering coconut milk, separates the natives from the tourists. There are seafood and duck entrees, all the expected appetizers and lots of choices for vegetarians. Try the heaping plate of thick veggie pad see-eew—like most of the dishes it also comes with chicken, beef or pork—and a pot brimful of creamy, sweet-spicy ginger tea. (J.S.) $-$$. CC. Handicap access. 962-8851

Thai-namite

932 E. Brady St., 837-6280 8725 W. North Ave., 837-6281 400 N. Water St., 277-8555 The focus is on Thai curries, stir frys and fresh sushi. Thai-namite curry is massaman-style with chunks of beef, potatoes and carrots braised in a rich coconut milk-based curry. Thai-American favorite volcano chicken features a crispy deep

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fried chicken breast sliced atop a bed of vegetables and served on a hot skillet. The sushi portion of the menu includes nigiri, sashimi and maki, along with sushi bar entrees that come with miso soup and a various assortment of sushi. (L.M.) $-$$. CC. FB. OD. RS. Handicap access.

VEGETARIAN/ VEGAN FRIENDLY Beans & Barley

1901 E. North Ave. OK, they are not strictly vegetarian, serving chicken and fish, too. But Beans & Barley has long been Milwaukee’s stalwart for alternative dining and a great place to people watch. The dining room is a striking example of contemporary design. On the way out, stop at the organic deli and grocery. (D.L.) $-$$. CC. OD. SB. Handicap access. 278-7878

Beerline Café

2076 N. Commerce St. Beerline Café is a friendly, cosmopolitan, casual, inexpensive, all-vegetarian restaurant specializing in sweet and savory crepes, panini sandwiches, salads, soups and creative specialties, with a full range of coffee and espresso drinks, hot and cold teas, smoothies, juices, wines from the bottle or on tap and an excellent selection of Milwaukee craft beers. At least half of the menu is also available in vegan or gluten-free versions. I can heartily recommend the delicate spring roll crepe with spicy Asian peanut sauce. This is the first Milwaukee café to earn a Green Restaurant Association three-star rating for low environmental impact. (J.S.) $-$$. CC. 265-5644

Bombay Sweets 3401 S. 13th St.

The setting is spare with white Formica tables and plastic forks and cutlery. But this allvegetarian East Indian menu is filled with rare and unusual delights. Lemon rice, pakoras, pooris and malai kofta are all recommended. There is also a bakery counter filled with an array of Indian sweets and snacks. (J.B.) $. CC. OD. NA. RS. 383-3553

Bowls

207 W. Freshwater Way A healthy-food-focused restaurant has opened headed by Nell Benton of The National and Andy Larson of Float. Bowls features an entire menu of dishes in bowls, in categories of smoothies, oats, pudding, grains and greens. The smoothie section takes what is essentially a smoothie, puts it in a bowl, and tops it with fruit, nuts, and grains for a sweet breakfast. Most of the menu is dedicated to grains and greens. The Thai green curry bowl includes brown rice, a mixture of vegetables and spicy green curry sauce. A steak and

DINING GUIDE rice bowl utilizes Korean flavors with kimchi and bibimbop sauce. Chopped raw salad is vegan and gluten free with greens, jicama, avocado, veggies and ginger miso dressing. Online ordering is available for faster service at the counter. (L.M.) $-$$. CC. GFT. Handicap access. 800-5667

Café Manna

3815 N. Brookfield Road, Sendik’s Towne Centre While going through the strip malls and bigbox stores of Brookfield’s commercial districts, it might be easy to miss Café Manna, a 100% vegetarian eatery located in the Sendik’s Towne Centre. But vegetarians, or anyone with an appreciation for healthful food, should make a point of seeking this place out. Some of the restaurant’s ingredients are part of the patio aesthetics, such as potted tomato plants and a small garden. Each menu section offers a few varied options that weave influences of world cuisines into scratch-made, raw, vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. (S.J.) $$. CC. OD. RS. GF. 262-790-2340

Harvest Café

2205 Silvernail Road, Pewaukee Located inside the Good Harvest Market natural food store, the café isn’t strictly vegetarian but is a fine place to take in a healthful meal. The menu reads a bit like an Allen Ginsberg poem in its repetition of the word “organic,” but the café’s dedication to clean and healthful ingredients is immediately clear upon your first bite—the food does taste fresher. In addition to a hot bar with daily rotating items and a salad bar, the Harvest Café features local beers on tap. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC. OD. SB. GF. Handicap access. 262-944-9380

On the Bus

400 N. Water St. In addition to offering scratch-made vegan food, On the Bus literally lives up to its name; the serving counter is fashioned from owner Emily Ware’s own 1971 Volkswagen Bus, which was her very first auto. On the Bus features Ware’s own recipes, including fresh almond milk made daily. The almond milk is used in smoothies, ice cream, cheese and their trendy açaí bowls. On the Bus’s arrival shows that the term “vegan” is no longer a scary word. (S.J.) 204-8585

On the Way Café

6005 W. Mequon Road On The Way Café, an upscale establishment that’s counter service, but classy. Customers dining in or ordering carryout can choose from a broad menu featuring organic, non-GMO and antibiotic-free breakfast items, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, bowls, desserts, smoothies and juices, and organic beer, wine and cider. While On The Way Café is vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free friendly, it’s not an exclusive vegetarian restaurant. Meat lovers will find grass-fed and free-range beef, lamb or turkey burgers, served on flavorful sprouted grain buns. (S.J.) $-$$. Handicap accessible. 262-302-4492

Outpost Natural Foods

100 E. Capitol Drive, 961-2597 7000 W. State St., 778-2012 2826 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 755-3202 7590 W. Mequon Road, Mequon, 262-242-0426 945 N. 12th St., Aurora Sinai Hospital, 220-9166 1617 W. North Ave., Wellness Commons, 210-4577 Milwaukee’s long-running natural foods co-op (they helped introduce the city to the concept of healthy eating!) has deli and table arrangements at all locations. (D.L.) $. CC. Handicap access.

Riverwest Co-op Grocery & Café

733 E. Clarke St. Choose your favorite of the varied coffee cups and fill it from the pot yourself. The coffee’s Anodyne, a local roaster. Everything here’s as local as possible, 100% vegetarian and 98% organic. This is quintessential Riverwest, friendly, laid back, inexpensive; local artwork fills the walls and patrons discuss it. Open all day; just four tables and 11 chairs with sidewalk seating in good weather. Try the creative smoothies, luscious vegan pancakes, “Phamous Philly” and Notorious Barbecue. (J.S.) $. CC. OD. NA. 264-7933

Urban Beets

1401 N. Martin Luther King Jr. Drive The cozy shop seats a dozen people and has a warm, inviting vibe. The menu is at once inviting and imposing; scrawled with excellent penmanship and suspended above the counter, it contains multitudes; breakfast items, entrees, smoothies and juices are all available and made with healthy and, whenever possible, organic ingredients. (F.K.R.C.) $-$$. CC. OD. GF. Handicap access. 800-6265

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VIETNAMESE Hué

2691 S. Kinnickinnic Ave., 294-0483 6519 W. North Ave., 585-0577 A sure sign of success in the restaurant business is expansion, especially in terms of new locations being added. Such is the case for Hué, now ensconced in both Bay View and Wauwatosa. Both locations offer a full menu of Vietnamese favorites and you’ll find what you want here served with color and pizzazz. Spring rolls, lemongrass and garlic-marinated beef skewers, chicken, seafood and vegetable curries and, of course, Pho. Hué’s menus are especially eaterfriendly, explaining each dish thoroughly. (J.J.) $$. CC. FB. FF. RS (6 or less Bay View; 12 or less Wauwatosa). OD (Wauwatosa only).

Phan’s Garden

1923 W. National Ave. Phan’s Garden is one of the city’s original Vietnamese restaurants, located on Milwaukee’s near South Side—pretty much ground zero for our burgeoning Asian populace. The menu assembles all the typical Vietnamese favorites— shrimp balls, hot pots, spring rolls and phở. It also has better-known Chinese items for the less adventurous patrons, such as egg rolls and hot and sour soup. A major draw is actually the beverage menu: more than 30 export varieties of beer are offered—all from Vietnam. (J.J.) $-$$. CC. 384-4522

Phở Hải Tuyết I

204 W. Layton Ave. Phở Hải Tuyết I is one of the most authentically Vietnamese restaurants in the Milwaukee area with one of the biggest menus. Dine-in, order online or by phone and take-out or have your food delivered (if you’re in their neck of the woods). Their service is fast and friendly. The menu is helpfully divided into appetizer, noodle, beef noodle (phở), rice and seafood dish subsections—all the better to quickly zero in on exactly what your palate desires. In addition to wine and beer, there are lots of Vietnamese sodas, coffees, teas and juices—and several flavors of that delicious Vietnamese thirst-quencher, bubble tea. (J.J.) $-$$. CC. Handicap access. 231-3201

SHEPHERD EXPRESS CITY GUIDE ’18

Phở Việt

5475 S. 27th St. By all means start with an appetizer, from which there are 20 to choose. And true to the restaurant’s name, it offers 19 versions of Vietnam’s signature soup, phở. Entrée items include scrumptious crispy crepes, tracing their roots to French colonial days. The combo platter includes a host of meats on a bed of sticky rice. Phở Việt’s smoothies come in 14 flavors. (J.J.) $-$$. RS. 282-8852

Vietnamese Noodles

1380 W. Mequon Road, Mequon Vietnamese Noodles is a casual restaurant serving mostly traditional Vietnamese cuisine for dining in and carrying out in Mequon’s Concord Court Plaza. Phở, the beef noodle soup and national dish of Vietnam, is clearly the focal point of the menu. The egg and spring rolls are excellent. Entrées include crispy fried egg noodles with chicken, beef or vegetables. Vietnamese Noodles dabbles in other Southeast Asian favorites including curry chicken, Korean barbecue beef short ribs and pad Thai. There are many vegetarian options as well, some of which feature tofu. (K.L.L.) $-$$. CC. Handicap Access. 262-241-1999

Xankia

222 W. Wells St. Xankia serves delectable Vietnamese sandwiches to please most palates. Offered are tofu, chicken and beef sandwiches/meals, soups, noodle dishes, as well as desserts (lotus cookies and Hmong-style tapioca made fresh daily). Try the vegetarian egg rolls or shrimp spring rolls and roast chicken sandwich for lunch. Equally popular are the beef and meatball phở, shrimp phở and pork steam buns (as a side). Xankia is perfect for exploring the taste of Vietnam with friends for casual meetings. (Y.O.) $-$$. CC. 817-0241

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