Best of the Wurst at Bay View’s Vanguard

BEST OF THE WURST at Bay View’s

VANGUARD

BY SUSAN HARPT GRIMES

In a town well known for excellent sausages, it’s quite an achievement to become the go-to place for truly spectacular sausages. In pre-pandemic days, happy Vanguard diners would settle in at the bar for a tasty cocktail and a quick nosh. After a brief closure last spring at the onset of the pandemic, Vanguard re-opened in the summer of 2020 without late bar hours and eliminated in-person dining altogether, opting to embrace a carryout and delivery model. Hopefully, as we get closer to that herd immunity we aim for and restrictions are lifted, Vanguard diners will be able to enjoy that live, in-person dining experience again.

For now, though, ordering by phone or online is a pretty smooth system. Perhaps more importantly, from a dining perspective, is how well the food travels. A recent carryout experience yielded very positive results. While some items may not be as piping hot as they are when received directly from kitchen to table, sausages travel pretty well. While basic house-made hot dogs ($5) and bratwurst ($7) are available, more adventurous palates will be sated by the creative sausage options on the menu. You can’t go wrong with one of the world cuisine-inspired variations like the Thai Breaker ($9), a pork sausage seasoned with lemongrass, cilantro and zippy ginger, topped with shredded lettuce, carrots, “crunchy bits” and peanut sauce. If you like a simple Italian, try it prepared as the Sartorelli ($10), which features the delicious Vanguard Italian sausage, paired with pepperoni slices, red and green peppers, onions, marinara sauce and mozzarella. You can also send your taste buds to Spain with the Don Flamenco ($11), a Spanish chorizo sausage served over a bed of fried potatoes, topped with romesco and garlic aioli. And, even though Vanguard has a lot of meat on the menu, vegans and vegetarians should not feel left out, as many of the specialties can be recreated with meatless alternatives.

BURGERS AND SIDES

If you’re not feeling up for a sausage-style meal, check out Thee Durty Burger ($9), a super juicy burger topped with bacon, lettuce, tomato, Velveeta cheese and OK sauce. This burger was, somehow, almost better as a carryout item than during the dinein days. Perhaps the extra travel time from restaurant to home really gave the Velveeta an opportunity to melt even more fully with the other ingredients, adding an extra level of decadence. Either way, it is a fantastic burger.

Keep in mind, while sausages are the star of the show at Vanguard, the side options are also pretty spectacular. A delightful classic version of the Canadian delicacy, Poutine ($6), features French fries and fresh cheese curds dressed with a lovely caramelized onion gravy. The Baked Potato Balls ($5), crispy fried mashed potato balls topped with bacon, sour cream and old school Cheez Whiz, are out of this world. And don’t overlook the two newest sides, Those Beans ($5) and the bacon-topped Mac and Cheese ($5). Both are wonderful additions to the menu and will round out any meal at Vanguard perfectly.

For anyone who feels they need Vanguard on their own time or lives too far away for convenient carryout, it is now possible to pick up 4-packs of most of their sausages ($20), or a full grill pack which includes sides and buns ($34), for cooking at home. 2659 S. Kinnickinnic Ave. 414-539-3593 | vanguardbar.com $-$$$

Susan Harpt Grimes is a longtime restaurant and features writer for the Shepherd Express.