WHY ARE FISH FRIES

BY SUSAN HARPT GRIMES

You’ve done it hundreds or maybe even thousands of times. It’s Friday night in Milwaukee and you’ve known all week what you’re having for dinner—a fish fry! In Milwaukee, the traditional fish fry is served year-round in just about every restaurant, bar, grocery store, VFW post and even some churches. The tradition, dating back to the 1800s, has been attributed to the city’s European heritage brought over with immigrant Catholic faithful who were restricted to eating fish on Fridays. With the abundance of freshwater fish available from Wisconsin lakes, it was also an inexpensive meal to serve.

Local breweries further enshrined the meal into the very fabric of our city at the community level by bolstering sales during Prohibition with fish fry dinners. We reached out to five local establishments that our readers nominated for the Shepherd Express’ Best of Milwaukee award to see what sets their fish fry apart and glean some insight into why they think fish frys have become such a Friday night institution in Milwaukee.

KEGEL’S INN

5901 W. National Ave.

The 2022 Best of Milwaukee Fish Fry winner has been serving up their fish fry for generations. Stephanie Kegel, fourth generation proprietor and chef, thinks, “The fish fry has remained popular in Milwaukee because it's a simple and timeless tradition that connects people to place. Whether your family is of European descent, immigrated in the 1800s or newly established in the area, the fish fry tradition of Milwaukee is an easy way to feel connected to our community and local culture.” A great deal of care goes into the Kegel's Inn fish fry dinners, including hand breading their fish, making homemade tartar sauce and using a special recipe for potato pancakes. Kegel says, “My mom always said you can taste food that’s made with love, and in our case it’s true.”

The Catfish Lounge

3646 N. Teutonia Ave.

The Catfish Lounge has been run by the Gladney family for generations. Ebony Lewis, granddaughter of the original owners James and Jamie Gladney says, “Grandmother is the true reason why the food at Catfish is as amazing as it is. We don’t rush the process and we focus on what our strong qualities are. The secrets have been passed down and now my younger cousins cook and manage the kitchen.” Their lightly breaded and perfectly seasoned fried catfish will keep new generations coming back for more.

The Packing House

900 E. Layton Ave.

The perennial favorite draws big crowds on Fridays for their hand breaded, delicately fried cod loin filets. All of the accompaniments that go with the fish, including tartar sauce, coleslaw, potato pancakes,and clam chowder are all made in-house, from scratch. One inventive feature the Packing House offers is a drive-thru fish fry every Friday in addition to their dine-in service. Chris Wiken of the Packing House suggests, “the fish fry is simply a part of the culture in Milwaukee. It’s a staple of Friday night.”

STENY'S TAVERN & GRILL

800 S. Second St.

Steny’s has been making their popular Friday fish fry for over 20 years. Ryan Steny says that they take pride in ensuring, “quality and consistency every time no matter if it’s a dinein or take out order.” Steny’s fried cod is lightly battered and crispy, but not greasy. All of the coleslaw, tartar sauce, applesauce, and Grandma Steny’s secret recipe potato pancakes are made from scratch every Friday.

The Stillery

1304 12th Ave, Grafton

As one of the newest places to be nominated, The Stillery has tapped into the exact type of fish fry that so many folks love. Hofbrau beer battered cod, crispy house-made potato pancakes or French fries, and all of the appropriate accoutrements like a fresh salted rye bread roll and coleslaw, plus some unexpected maple syrup (who knew it was so good with potato pancakes?) check all of the boxes for an excellent fish fry. The Stillery gets a bonus point for offering their fish fry on Wednesdays as well as Fridays. Ultimately, Milwaukee’s Friday fish fry tradition has stood the test of time because it is part of who we are. It brings people together, every week, to enjoy some food, have some fellowship, and strengthen the connections that make us a community.