SHETLAND CLIMBING
Al Whitworth
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SHETLAND CLIMBING
Written and published by Al Whitworth in Shetland, UK. 1st Edition: 2016 Copyright Š Al Whitworth 2016 ISBN: 978-1-5272-6650-6 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher. Topo photos contributed by: Al Whitworth, Ross Jones, Paul Whitworth, Andrew Hunter, Andy Long, Jonathan Swale, Dave Brown. All other photos as credited. Cover Photo: Ross Jones on Thranduil, Eshaness Lighthouse. Photo: Andrew Hunter. Back Cover Photo: Paul Whitworth on The Spoot, Skelda Ness. Photo: Sid Rayner.
DISCLAIMER The authors, publishers and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. 1
INTRODUCTION
Ross Jones on Yevaud, Fogla Taing Ä Al Whitworth
Shetland is a bit of a latecomer to the climbing scene. Back in the days when crofting and fishing were the mainstays of life here, not all that long ago, scaling cliffs in search of birds’ eggs was a necessity, and a very dangerous activity. So climbing for fun would be an absurd suggestion! The first real exploration began in the ‘80s when Andy Long moved here and started establishing some of the main crags. But it was only in 2004 that a local group of climbers built up, eventually forming a club. Visiting climbers tended to come here for adventure and were drawn to the huge and spectacular sea cliffs of Eshaness, Foula and Nibon; and these areas quite rightly deserve their place at the top of Shetland's hall of fame. 50m sea cliffs with an abseil in don't always fit the bill for a climbing session though and much of the recent development has been finding friendlier and more accessible crags and bouldering venues. 2
That has left us with a hefty collection of over 50 crags covering more than 10 different rock types with around 1000 routes recorded, plus about 20 bouldering areas, and even a few small sport crags. The core group of climbers who really enjoy developing the climbing here remains small, maybe just half a dozen, and in 2011 we started an online guidebook and development blog for the local climbing scene here: shetlandclimbing.info. In 2013 we published a number of ‘miniguides’ to the best crags, mainly to aid development. These have now outgrown themselves and the time has finally come for a dedicated guidebook. This guidebook has been started several times over the last 10 years but the task was overwhelming and it is only thanks to the many people who have helped to collate the information on the website and draw topos that it’s become a manageable project.
INTRODUCTION
10pm at midsummer – plenty of time for another route!
This book is quite simply a collation of the freely available route information stored on our website and we’d really appreciate it if climbers could record any new routes, corrections or updates on the website for future versions. I’ve included all of the main developed crags for which we have up-to-date information, and briefly mentioned some of the less developed areas, and also the best bouldering venues. Details of first ascents for all routes are available on the website. I’ve very much enjoyed going through all the crags again to write the book and feel inspired to visit some of the areas listed here that I haven’t made it to yet. Shetland’s not a small place and there’s a lifetime of exploration here! I hope you enjoy the book and that it serves to further the development of the climbing scene in these special islands. Al Whitworth, 2016
Ä Al Whitworth
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS A word of thanks is due to everyone who has helped to make this guidebook possible; submitted photos, collated route information, proof read etc. And for your encouragement too, as it’s been a very long journey to get to this point. Special thanks to: Paul Whitworth, who started this project many years ago, Andrew Hunter who jointly runs ShetlandClimbing.info, Ross Jones for his tireless collation of route information and many photos, Andy Long, Pete Sawford & Jonathan Swale. Thanks also to Promote Shetland, Mountaineering Scotland and Climb Shetland, the local club. And of course to my wife Aurore for her support and putting up with me being glued to my laptop every evening for the last few months putting this all together! 3
ABOUT SHETLAND
The Hams of Muckle Roe. Spot the tents!
Ä Aurore Whitworth
Shetland lies at 60°N latitude; 100 miles from mainland Scotland; closer to Bergen than Edinburgh; has a population of 22,000; over 100 islands; 100 miles from North to South; 1,700 miles of coastline; and a shed load of rock! So, Shetland is probably bigger than you think…
COLOURFUL GEOLOGY Geology seems a fitting place to start in explaining why such an array of climbing exists in this relatively small outpost of Britain. Shetland has been designated as a UNESCO Geopark due to its incredible and unique geology. Within 100 by 50 miles, there are crags of sandstone, granite, volcanic rock, schist and gneiss. It’s fair to say that Shetland does not lack in quantity of rock, but finding areas solid enough for climbing is not easy, and many dedicate countless weekends to discovering venues. 4
THE SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE Shetland’s climbing screams of adventure. There aren’t many opportunities to park next to the crag here! Whether you’re abseiling 50m down sheer volcanic rock hoping the belay ledge you spied is as big as it looked, or scrambling along the tide line constantly assessing the swell, there’s usually a fair dose of excitement before you’ve even dipped your chalk bag. On a day’s climbing its very rare to see anyone else - seals actually tend to be the most familiar spectators. It’s not unusual to see otters fishing nearby and some lucky belayers have watched whales passing by! Very few of the cliffs, crags and venues have been “climbed out”, and many of us hardly ever repeat routes – at least three quarters of routes here have never been repeated.
ABOUT SHETLAND
The Cannon blowhole at Eshaness Lighthouse in a large swell. Cliffs ~35m
Ä Al Whitworth
NATURE’S PLAYGROUND
THE SEASON
Adventure and variety are certainly big parts of Shetland’s climbing, but the wildness and the incredible array of birds, plants and other wildlife that fills it is overwhelming.
The climbing season here is generally from April to September. Autumn and Winter are not usually kind to the climber, but sight of storm waves clearing the tops of 50m sea cliffs you were climbing only a few months ago at least ensures loose rock is cleared off!
Shetland’s natural heritage is not unknown, and thousands of visitors come annually to enjoy the abundance of wildlife, untracked walks and dramatic scenery. As a climber, the amount of birdlife can cause issues on some routes, with infamous vomiting specimens sure to leave their mark on your day if you don’t keep your distance! A further hindrance and wonder of Mother Nature is the mighty midge. Although not as savage as its Highland counterpart, on a calm day they still seem to inhabit virtually every conceivable space. Fortunately, with a brisk breeze they struggle to pester as much and wind is not something lacking in these islands!
Short days hamper things further, but a glimpse of the Aurora Borealis (Northern Lights) is well worth the long nights. In spring the islands begin to come to life, with migrating birds returning or passing through, wild meadows bursting into colour, and by June the daylight extends to 24 hours, with the all-night twilight having its own name here: Simmer Dim. Summers here vary so much from year to year it is hard to say when’s best to visit but May and June are probably most reliable. 5
ACCESS & LOGISTICS There is already a plethora of information available from other sources for visitors to Shetland such as Visit Shetland (shetland.org) and so the information here is minimal.
GETTING TO SHETLAND
SUPPLIES It is easy to get most things you need during your stay in Shetland. Lerwick has 2 main supermarkets, camping gear shops, outdoor clothing – all the usual things of a small town. There’s no climbing gear shop though.
Shetland is connected to mainland Scotland by a nightly car ferry service from Aberdeen which takes 12 – 14 hours, and regular flights operate from most Scottish airports. You need to book well in advance for both, although there’s usually space on the ferry for foot passengers without cabins.
MAPS
GETTING AROUND THE ISLANDS
Crag maps used in this book are Ordnance Survey maps at either 1:25,000 or 1:50,000 but are not to scale. On all crag maps the blue squares represent 1km x 1km.
Once you are here it is pretty standard to hire a car, if you didn’t bring one. Without wheels, reaching most of the climbing would be difficult. Regular inter-island ferries and small planes link the outlying islands to the “Mainland” (main island). It is best to book these beforehand, with the exception of Bressay which can’t be booked. The free ZetTrans phone App is well worth getting.
ACCOMMODATION There’s plenty of choice for places to stay, from camping böds with little more than a bed in them, to hotels. You can also wild camp pretty much anywhere as long as you follow the Scottish Access Code.
ON A BUDGET The cheapest option for a trip is as a foot passenger on the overnight ferry – a seat in the bar isn’t always conducive to a good night’s sleep, but saves the cost of a cabin! For a longer trip, it would be possible to use a combination of public transport, hitching and wild camping at the crags to get to at least some of the areas. Local climbers can offer advice – check the forum on the club site: climbshetland.co.uk.
6
Maps are essential for getting to the crags in Shetland as there aren’t any paths or signposts! Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 maps are best as they show the features that are usually the names used for the crags.
Obviously, the maps in the book are an aid to get to the crag, not for navigating by!
USEFUL WEBSITES Climb Shetland – Shetland’s climbing club. The website forum is active and friendly so take a look if you need advice or a belayer! climbshetland.co.uk ShetlandClimbing.info (SCi) – Articles, photos, online guidebook and general info. shetlandclimbing.info Tourist Information: shetland.org Travel to and from Shetland: northlinkferries.co.uk flybe.com Travel within Shetland travel.shetland.org Weather Information: xcweather.co.uk/forecast/shetland magicseaweed.com (Swell charts)
ACCESS & LOGISTICS GEAR & EQUIPMENT
GRADES
If you’re planning to climb the sea cliffs of Eshaness, attempt some sea stacks or in search of new routes, then a large rack covering micros through to size 4/5 cams would be recommended as well as a pair of half ropes.
Trad grades are standard UK grades. Take these with a pinch of salt at remote crags as routes probably haven’t been repeated, and first ascensionists have a habit of being conservative! The French system is used for our Sport crags.
50m rope lengths tend to be enough for most challenges, and many routes require abseil in. A separate abseil rope and ascenders (together with the skills to use them!) are recommended should you need to escape.
If you feel a grade is incorrect please let us know via shetlandclimbing.info
However, if you’re just cragging and climbing the easier access sea cliffs, then a standard sized rack will suffice and single ropes would be ok. Small micro wires and micro cams can be very useful in some of the granite and ignimbrite crags. For bouldering, mats are essential, and for a few venues 2 or 3 are recommended as the landings sometimes aren’t great.
SAFETY INFORMATION If you aren’t used to it, climbing on sea cliffs can be intimidating. Even when you are used to it, there is a sense of seriousness and commitment to the climbing that requires an extra degree of technical knowhow and planning before you set out. Mobile phones rarely work at crags, except a few around Lerwick and many crags are in remote areas with few houses nearby so you do need to be proficient in self-rescue. Always pack a first aid kit, map and compass, tell someone where you are climbing and your planned return time. For any emergency, dial 999. Normally the coastguard will attend to climbing incidents. This is a volunteer service and they are trained in cliff rescue; there is also a S&R helicopter based in Sumburgh.
WEATHER & TIDES Weather is unfortunately the biggest hindrance to climbing in Shetland. XC Weather tends to give the most reliable forecast for the islands, and it’s usually possible to find somewhere to climb that’s out of the wind, but finding somewhere out of the rain is impossible! Tides don’t affect many crags as the tidal range here is fairly small, but sea swell and spray do, so we use the word ‘tidal’ in the book to indicate both tides and swell. Magic Seaweed is a great website if you want a detailed forecast for sea state and wind.
ACCESS & RESTRICTIONS We are grateful to have no access restrictions to any crags in Shetland and hope to keep it this way. Please take care to keep gates closed and leave the crags as you find them. Landowners are mostly friendly and it’s worth checking if you’re unsure about access or parking for a particular crag. Some areas are restricted during the nesting season, which pretty much lasts the climbing season! If you are planning to climb a new cliff with nesting birds nearby please check with Scottish Natural Heritage first. None of our existing crags are in restricted areas, although some have nesting sites close by and these have been highlighted in the access notes. 7
MAP
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CRAGS MINOR CRAGS
NORTHMAVINE 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8 10 11 12 13
Cleras Geo Ronas Hill Ronas Voe The Faither Otters Head Tingon South Gill Raasmi (Sport) Grind of the Navir Eshaness Lighthouse Hamar Nibon Lang Head
10 14 18 24 30 38 50 56 60 70 84 90 100
CENTRAL MAINLAND 14 15 16 17 18
Muckle Roe Lunning Ness of Sound Pundsar Bannaminn
104 114 120 128 132
WEST MAINLAND 19 20 21 22
Pobie Skeo Fidlar Geo Culswick Skelda Ness The Coall Blovid Fogla Taing Vaakel Craigs
Fethaland The Drongs The Knab Ninian Slabs Spiggie Longi Wall Jarlshof Stack Scatness Fair Isle
BOULDERING 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Grey Face Boulders Hurda Red Wall The Virdans Stanes of Stofast The Sletts Quarff Levenwick Troswick
Bressay: Muckle Hell Bressay: Mirki Wall Bressay: Round Point Bressay: Bard Head Unst: Skaw Fetlar: Blo Geo Papa Stour Foula
235 236 236 237 237 238 238 239
160 164 172 176
For the visitor (and the local!) the choice of crags can be bewildering. This summary should help to make the most of your time. NORTHERLY WIND EASTERLY WIND SOUTHERLY WIND
ISLANDS 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34
229 230 231 231 232 232 233 233 234
WHERE TO GO? 138 144 150 154
SOUTH MAINLAND 23 24 25 26
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 x
180 186 190 194 198 206 210 216
Muckle Hell Fidlar Geo Tingon Eshaness Lighthouse Grind of the Navir Nibon
WESTERLY WIND
Blovid Fogla Taing
FRIENDLY LEADS
Fidlar Geo South Gill
EVENING VENUES
Bannaminn Grind of the Navir
WINTER SUN
Bannaminn The Coall
EARLY SEASON
Bannaminn South Gill 9
MAP C LERAS GEO NEW PHOTO NEEDED
Sid 10 Rayner on Cleras Slab
Ä Ross Jones
CLERAS GEO
NORTHMAVINE
GRID REF
APPROACH
ROCK TYPE
TIDAL?
ASPECT
HU 307 900
10 mins / 2 hrs
Gabbro / Granite
No
South West
DESCRIPTION This crag provides a fine and remote venue. The rock is gabbro with red micro-granite intrusions. There is also an impressive and hidden overhanging wall that is yet unclimbed. It is really the main feature of the crag, but is likely to be much harder climbing.
ACCESS The wall and geo can be easily located by the dry-stone wall that meets the eastern edge of the geo. The wall can be seen from a scramble down the cliff opposite. The routes are located on the west end of the south wall. It is possible to drive along the gravel track from North Roe with a 4x4 to park near a gate at HU 329 905 or to HU 312 897 (rougher track). The crag is a 40 or 10 minute walk respectively. Access is by abseil. Without a 4x4 the walk in would be approximately 2 hours from Collafirth Hill masts.
MAP
Š Crown copyright 2016 OS 100057931
11
CLERAS GEO
HU 307 900
The first four routes are on the slab left of the west facing corner. Routes start from shallow ledges. 1 Flintstone’s Arete 35m HS 4a Climb the wall and arete. 2 Monkey Does Not Beg 35m VD The large crack line up the slab left of centre. 3 Cleras Slab 35m E2 5b The slab and hanging capping wall between the crackline and corner. Climb the slab 3m left of the corner (bold at mid height) direct to an inverted v-groove in the hanging headwall. Climb the groove and pull up right onto the hanging wall above and climb this to finish. 4 Nobody Moves My Monkey 40m Sev Start 5m below the hanging left facing corner. Climb the corner and below the wall to exit. 5 Simmer Blink Crack 25m VD Belay at the point where the wall becomes vertical and climb the crack. The lower 5m section above the overhang was climbed from a hanging belay at HVS 4c. 6 Hamara Crack 35m E2 5c Belay on the ledge beneath Simmer Blink Crack on the hanging wall. Climb the small broken rib on the right on to a small sloping platform below a hanging crack. Climb up and pull left into the crack. Climb this and then directly up the easier wall to finish up the steepening wall on the right. Fine climbing through the lower section. 12
NORTHMAVINE
CLERAS GEO
Pete Kayll on Nobody Moves My Monkey, Cleras Geo Ä Paul Whitworth
Pete Sawford on A Pale Blue Colour, Ronas Hill Ä Ross Jones
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SHETLAND CLIMBING The first dedicated guidebook to the most northerly islands of the UK. From hillside granite outcrops to volcanic sea cliffs and inland gneiss boulders, Shetland offers about as varied a climbing experience as you could hope for. Don’t expect to bump into many other climbers! This guide covers over 50 crags spread around the islands, with over 800 routes between them. Included are the main trad climbing areas and sea stacks, plus an overview of the best bouldering venues.
Written and published by Al Whitworth UK: ÂŁ19.95