European Union Program
TALLINN Estonia
Estonia At a glance Politics: PM Andrus Ansip heads a centre-right coalition which was reelected in 2011 Economy: Estonia has experienced rapid growth. Key sectors include manufacturing and IT. Estonia joined the eurozone in 2011 International: Estonia joined Nato and the EU in 2004. It has a troop contingent in Afghanistan A small and heavily forested country, Estonia is the most northerly of the three former Soviet Baltic republics. Not much more than a decade after it regained its independence following the collapse of the USSR, the republic was welcomed as an EU member in May 2004. The move came just weeks after it joined Nato. Estonia was part of the Russian empire until 1918 when it proclaimed its independence. Russia recognized it as an independent state under the 1920 Treaty of Tartu. During the two decades that followed it tried to assert its identity as a nation squeezed between the rise of Nazism in Germany and the dominion of Stalin in the USSR. After a pact between Hitler and Stalin, Soviet troops arrived in 1940 and Estonia was absorbed into the Soviet Union. Nazi forces pushed the Soviets out in 1941 but the Red Army returned in 1944 and remained for half a century. The rapidly expanding Soviet planned economy brought hundreds of thousands of Soviet immigrants to Estonia, causing widespread fear among Estonians that their national identity would eventually vanish. Russians account for up to a third of the population. The legacy of the Soviet years has left a mark which the country carries with it into its EU era: Many Russian-speakers complain of discrimination, saying strict language laws make it hard to get jobs or citizenship without proficiency in Estonian. Some Russian-speakers who were born in Estonia are either unable or unwilling to become citizens because of the language requirements. After a decade of negotiations, Estonia and Russia signed a treaty defining the border between the two countries in May 2005. The Estonian parliament ratified it soon afterwards but only after it had introduced reference to Soviet occupation. Moscow reacted by pulling out of the treaty and saying talks would have to start afresh. The Estonian language is closely related to Finnish but not to the languages of either of the other Baltic republics, Latvia and Lithuania, or to Russian. The country has unique traditions in folk song and verse, traditions which have had to be strong to survive the many centuries of domination by foreign countries. Estonia enjoyed an investment boom following EU accession, but in 2008 its economy was badly hit by the global financial crisis. The government adopted tough austerity measures and won plaudits for getting the economy back into shape ahead of entry to the European single currency in January 2011.
Page 2
The Ultimate Tallinn Bucket-List:
Eat boar, bear, elk and duck
Find (and enjoy) the hot wine in the main square
Visit the Marzipan Museum Room of the Kalev Ltd chocolate and sweet firm (Roseni 7)
Visit the Rotermann organic and handcrafted market, open Wednesday, Friday and Saturday
Where to eat:
Kompressor
If savory crepes are your thing, make your way on over here! When you finish one of these, you will receive mad props. Rataskaevu 3
Many have said that Tallinn is what they hoped Prague would be. I guess you will have to test this theory, eh? It´s got the same medieval charm as Prague, although the history of this quaint town is quite tainted. Not yet a popular tourist destination in Europe, you will have the chance to explore this small (and inexpensive) Eastern European city before it actually starts trending. While in a medieval town, why not get a little old-school? The best souvenier that you could pick up here is a pair of pointy shoes. Trust me, you will treasure them forever. And since you are in a medieval spot, take in the fantastic architecture. If you are interested in visiting a monastery, check out the beautiful Dominican Monastery (Vene tänav 16/18), open only during the summer for tours, but still viewable in the winter months. And if you need some relaxation on the last leg of your journey— no worries. A cafe in the old town square awaits you.
Olde Hansa
Get a taste of the 15th century, Estonian style. No, really. The menu is like reading a fairy tale book. Oh, and you can get the boar, bear and elk special here! Vana turg 1
Kuldne Notsu
Want traditional Estonian food? You´ve got it here in the cellar of the St. Peterbourg Hotel! Dunkri 8
Page 3
Sights and Historic Places The Old City The Old City is an excellently preserved medieval town built in the 11-15th centuries, and is on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. Most of the city has not been rebuilt due to the strong fortifications of the walls and lack of wooden buildings. The Old City is best traveled by foot to explore the winding cobbled streets. Some noteworthy places to see are Town Hall Square, Tallinn Town Hall, the Town Hall Pharmacy, the Great Guild Hall, and the house of the Brotherhood of Black Heads. Viru Gates Capping the end of Viru Street, these ivy-covered towers are a symbol of the Old City of Tallinn. These gates were built in the 14th century as foregates of a more complex system. Most of the gates were pulled down in the 1880s due to traffic issues, but the remaining pieces are one of the first things you will see when entering the Old City. Kadriorg Palace and Park Weizenbergi 37 The Kadriorg Palace was built from 1718-1736 for Tsar Peter the Great and his wife Catherine I. It was designed to look like an Italian villa and it is the only Nothern Baroque style building in Estonia. The palace is now home to the Foreign Art Museum of Estonia. The museum includes collections of paintings, graphics, and sculptures from Russia and Western Europe, although it is closed due to renovations. The gardens are very well manicured and add to the beauty of the building. Former KGB Headquarters Pikk tānav 59, Old Town This is the building that the KGB (originally known as the NKVD) operated from in Tallinn. The basement windows are fortified since it is where accused enemies of the state were interrogated. There is a plaque outside of the building that reads “This building housed the organ of repression of the Soviet occupational power. Here began the road to suffering for thousands of Estonians.” The spire of neighboring St. Olav’s Church (built in the 13 th century) was used by the KGB to send and receive radio transmissions. Toompea Castle Lossi plats Toompea Castle is the traditional Estonian seat of power, and today it is the home of Estonian Parliament. It was originally built as a fortress in the 13th century by the German Knights of the Sword. Visitors to the castle can only see the pink palace from the time of Catherine the Great, but from the base of the hill you can see the castle. Opening Hours: Monday-Friday 10am-4pm, admission only with a guided tour
Page 4
Kiek in de Kök Kiek in de Kök is a 38m cannon tower that was built in the 1470s. The name means ‘to peek into the kitchen’ because the guards thought the tower was so high they could see into the houses below. The tower has been expanded several times, with the walls currently being 4m thick. The tower now houses a museum about the development of Tallinn as a city and its military history from the 13th-18th centuries. Admission: 2,60€ for students, Opening hours: March-October, Tue-Sun 10:30am-6pm Television Tower This 314m TV tower is located in Pirita, and is a great example of Soviet engineering. The tower opened in 1980 and continues to be the highest tower in the country. At the base you can still see bullet holes from when the Soviet military attempted to take over Tallinn in 1991. Pirita This coastal district is 2 kilometers northeast of the Kadriorg palace. The marina was built for the Moscow Olympics in 1980. In Pirita you can find the city’s largest and most popular beach. On the eastern side of Pirita road is the ruined convent of Saint Brigitta, built in the early 15 th century, but destroyed in the Livonian War in 1577. Two kilometers inland are the Botanical Gardens and the Television Tower. The Bronze Soldier Originally known as ‘Monument to the Liberators of Tallinn,’ the Bronze Soldier is a statue placed in the center of Tallinn by the Soviets in 1947 as a symbol of liberation from the Nazis. In April 2007, the Estonian government decided to move the Bronze Soldier following a year of protesting that the statue was actually a symbol of Soviet occupation. The movement of the statue caused a big rift between Estonia and Russia because of the differing viewpoints of what the statue represented. The statue now resides in a Soviet soldier cemetery in the Cemetery of the Estonian Defense Forces in Tallinn.
Museums Museum of Occupation and Fight for Freedom Toompea tänav 8 This museum is dedicated solely to the time from 1939-1991, when Estonia was occupied by the Germans and then the Soviet Union. The museum highlights a particularly interesting aspect of the era, namely repression and resistance, through audio-visual displays, photos, and sound recordings. One noteworthy point about the museum as that it has been labeled as a site for the rememberence of Estonian SS-Soldiers. This fact has caused quite the controversy in Europe. It has also been criticized due to its blatant removal of the history of the Holocaust from the exhibition. Admission: 2€, Opening Hours: Tue-Sun 11am-6pm
Page 5
Estonian Open Air Museum Vabaöhumuuseumi tee 12 This museum allows you to travel back in time to rural Estonia. This park is filled with 18th-20th century farm buildings, windmills, a wooden chapel, a village school, and staff simulation of how people worked and lived. This is a great place to get handicrafts and a place to try traditional foods. Admission: 2€, Opening Hours: Sept-April 10am-7pm KUMU Weizenbergi 34 / Valge 1 (near Kadriorg Palace) KUMU is the largest art museum in Estonia and was opened in 2006. There are seven floors of the museum including technical floors, which contain exhibition halls, lecture halls, and an educational center. The name of the museum was created through a contest. The museum is known for its mixture of classic, contemporary, and high tech artwork. Admission: 4,20€ for students, Mon-Tue, closed; Wed, 11am-8pm; Thurs-Sun, 11am-6pm
Religious Sights Alexander Nevsky Cathedral Lossi Plats 10 This Russian Orthodox cathedral was built in the 19th century and is still active today. When it was built, Estonia was still a part of the Russian empire, and the building of this cathedral was meant to symbolize the dominance of the empire over the Baltic people. The cathedral was built in the same place where a Martin Luther statue once stood, and was dedicated to Alexander Yaroslavich Nevsky, Prince of Novgorod, who led the Battle of the Ice at Lake Peipsi in 1242 stopping the German crusaders‘ advancement. The cathedral is located at the top of Toompea Hill and is definitely worth a visit! The Tallinn Synagogue Karu 16 This synagogue was only established in 2007, making it Tallinn’s most modern house of worship. Almost the entire Jewish community was wiped out during World War II. After World War II Jews began to return to Tallinn, despite Soviet disdain and their outlawing of the observance of Judaism. The Jewish community has begun to re-establish itself starting after Estonian independence in 1991. Opening Hours: Mon-Thur 10am-6pm, Fri 10am-2pm St. Olav’s Church and Tower Lai 50 This church dates back to at least 1267 and is thought to have originally been used by Scandinavian merchants. It was dedicated to King Olaf II of Norway, and from 1549-1625, it was the largest building in the world. Its spire is 159 m tall and has repeatedly been struck by lightning, completely burning down the tower three times. Opening Hours: 10am-6pm
Page 6
Food Estonian cuisine usually consists of meat, potatoes, pork, and dairy products. The first course is usually served cold, and often is a platter of meat or fish with a side of potato salad. Pirukas are small pies that are usually filled with meat, cabbage, or carrot. Herring is also a staple in Estonian cuisine, and is often served as a first course. Other fish and seafood such as lobster, crab, and shrimp are seen as delicacies, but sprat, flounder, and perch are also popular dishes. Soup tends to be made from meat or chicken with vegetables. They are often blended with a dairy product like sour cream, milk, or yogurt. For main courses, pork is seen as the most important meat, no matter how it is cooked. Meat and potatoes with gravy and sauerkraut is a great example of traditional Estonian cuisine. Black rye bread is served with just about every salty food in Estonia.
Taxi numbers: Krooni Takso: (+372) 1212 Linnatakso: (+372) 1242 Peretakso: (+372) 16111
Transportation
Tallinn's public transportation system is a fairly straightforward network of buses, trollybuses and trams, all of which use the same tickets. From the center, most major bus routes leave from the new terminal under the Viru Keskus, or from Vabaduse Väljak. You can easily pick up trams in several places adjacent Old Town. When climbing on board you can just hop on any door, i.e. you don't have to show your ticket to the driver. Tickets are checked by inspectors who jump on at random stops. Tickets: The same tickets are good on all three systems. The simplest version is the single-ride ticket, or talong. Buy one from nearly any kiosk for 1€ (a book of ten tickets is only 8€) or from the driver for 1.60€. Once you're on board, punch your talong to validate it. Slide it into the greentopped ticket punch and pull the top towards you. Other types of tickets are good for specific periods of time and are only sold in kiosks. These include a 1hr (1.20€; a book of ten tickets 8.31€), 24hr (4.00€) and tourist-convenient 72hr (6€) ticket. Taxis Taxi stands can be found near major hotels and next to the drama theatre just outside Old Town. Ordering a taxi by phone is always the best strategy, as you’ll avoid the dishonest taxis. Always check the prices first, which should posted on the taxi’s right rear window. These consist of a base fare of usually 2.20 - 2.90€ plus two per-kilometre rates (one for daytime, one for night) which should normally be around 0.32 - 0.70€. When in doubt, you can agree on a price to your destination with the driver before you get in.
Page 7
Helpful Estonian Phrases yes no
jah el
ja ei
please
palun
paloon
thank you
tänan
tænan
good morning
tere hommikust
tere ommikust
good afternoon
tere päevast
tere pæevast
hello / hi
tervist / tere
tervist / tere
goodbye
head aega
head aega
My name is…
Minu nimi on...
minoo nimi on
I don’t understand.
Ma ei saa aru.
ma ei sah aroo
Do you speak English?
Kas te räägite inglise keelt? Ma ei räägi (palju) eesti keelt.
kas te ræægite inglesi kehlt ma ei ræægi (palyoo) ehsti kehlt
I don’t speak (much) Estonian.