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MAIN COURSES TO
MAKING A PERFECT PESACH WITH NAOMI NACHMAN
BY CHANA Z. WEISS
Naomi's dress: House of Lancry
It’s hard to find an avenue of the food industry that Naomi Nachman hasn’t dabbled in. Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, Naomi was a newlywed living in New York City when the school she taught at asked her to teach a makeyour-own sushi class as a school fundraiser. Naomi didn’t know it then, but that was the beginning of what would turn into an exten- sive culinary career. Her entre- preneurial spirit perked up and just a few years later, she quit her teaching job to pursue her food career full-time, teaching regular cooking classes at her local JCC and working as a personal chef for busy families in her neighborhood.
At the age of 23, when most of her young, married friends were go- ing back to their parents’ homes for Pesach, Naomi found herself across the world from her family, making Pesach in a small one bedroom apartment. “Necessity is the mother of invention,” she replies with a laugh, when asked how she found herself in the busi- ness of making Pesach. It was sink or swim, and she dove right in. Having grown up with parents who ran a Pesach program for years, she knew that although it was daunting, making her own Pesach could still be doable. Naomi recognized that the pros- pect of cooking for Pesach can be quite overwhelming to many, so she ran a small ad in a local paper that read, “Personal Pesach chef available.” People loved the idea of having a local, religious woman, who they could trust to know all the ins and outs of Pesach cook- ing, come and cook for them in their own homes, adjusting her menu to fit their particular needs and requirements. That was 16 years ago; now Naomi estimates that 80% of her business is from repeat customers, an impressive number that speaks for itself. Although the personal chef busi- ness is a big part of how Naomi got her start, she now keeps that part of her business seasonal to make room for the numerous other projects she has on her plate. With extensive Pesach cooking experience under her belt, Naomi released her wildly successful debut cookbook with Artscroll in 2017, Perfect for Pesach, featuring recipes, tips and tricks applicable to Pesach and year-round. Only a year and a half later, she published her second cookbook, Perfect Flavors.
More than just recipes and cook- ing instruction, what makes Naomi so successful is her vibrant and outgoing personality, which shines through on her social media accounts, numerous TV appear- ances and as a host of Table for Two, a weekly radio show on the Nachum Segal Network, already in its eighth season. Her energetic persona has taken her around the world, which she describes as her favorite part of the job, hosting interactive kosher Chopped-style competitions for communities, schools and family reunions.
After decades of making Pesach, Naomi no longer makes her own. She spends the weeks leading up to Pesach stocking clients’ freez- ers with ready-to-go dishes, then jets off with her family to teach cooking classes at various Pesach programs around the world. (This year she’s traveling to Rhodes, Greece with the Kosher Travelers program, where she’ll demo Greek-inspired dishes.)
“Many people use Pesach as an opportunity for a multi-gener- ational family holiday vacation, which is a wonderful experience,” says Naomi. But for those staying home, making Pesach doesn’t have to be so daunting. “Make lists, start early and plan it out. Nothing is overwhelming when you think it through beforehand.”
Z U C C H I N I C A U L I F L O W E R K U G E L
NAOMI'S ULTIMATE MAKE-AHEAD FEAST
S W E E T A N D S O U R C H I C K E N
CHICKEN "SOUP" BAKE CHICKEN SOUP GONE ROGUE.
S E D E R R O A S T
CHICKEN “SOUP” BAKE
RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN
Serves: 8
There is nothing more comforting than a big bowl of chicken soup, so I thought — why not combine all the flavors of chicken soup into a roasted chicken dish? The vegetables are sautéed first and then the juices from the chicken break down the vegetables even further, resulting in an intense chicken soup-like flavor that is second to none.
2 large onions, halved 1 parsnip, peeled 1 turnip, peeled and halved 1 sweet potato, peeled and halved 3 zucchini, halved 5 stalks celery 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons kosher salt, divided 3 teaspoons garlic powder, divided 3 teaspoons onion powder, divided 2 teaspoons paprika, divided 2 tablespoons potato starch 8 chicken bottoms (thigh and drumstick)
Preheat oven to 375°F. Using the shredder attachment of a food processor, grate all the vegetables and set aside.
Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan set over high heat. Add vegetables and sauté for about 8-10 minutes, until vegetables are slightly softened and liquids start to release. Add 2 tablespoons salt, 2 teaspoons garlic powder, 2 teaspoons onion powder and 1 teaspoon paprika. Sauté another 4 minutes.
Create a slurry by whisking potato starch with ½ cup of water until combined. Add to vegetables and mix until thickened. Divide vegetable mixture into 2 (9x13-inch) pans and top with 4 chicken bottoms each. Season chicken with remaining spices. Cook, uncovered, for 1 hour and 15 minutes.
SEDER ROAST
RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN
Serves: 8
Roasts can sometimes seem daunting, but this one is foolproof and freezes wonderfully, making this the perfect meat recipe to make ahead.
1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon kosher salt 5 pounds top of the rib or second cut brisket 6 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup orange juice ½ cup ketchup ½ cup honey ½ cup teriyaki sauce
Preheat oven to 325°F. Combine paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, cumin and salt. Rub all over meat on both sides. Place in a roasting pan. Combine minced garlic, orange juice, ketchup, honey and teriyaki sauce; pour over meat. Cover and cook for 3 hours until meat is tender.
SWEET AND SOUR CHICKEN
RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN
Serves: 4-6
1 chicken, cut into eighths 2 cups Sweet and Sour Sauce (pg. 20)
Preheat oven to 375°F. Place chicken in 9x13-inch baking dish.
Pour sauce over chicken and cook, uncovered, for 1½ hours.
SWEET AND SOUR CORNED BEEF
RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN
Serves: 8
When a package of raw meat indicates “corned beef” on the label, it means that the meat was cured in some sort of brine and will result in a unique taste and texture. It will also have a pink color. Butchers sell various cuts of corned beef, like deckle, tongue and brisket. You can use any of those cuts for the following recipe. It’s also a wonderful make-ahead option and is great served at any temperature.
1 (4-pound) corned beef 3 cups Sweet and Sour Sauce (pg. 20)
Place corned beef in a pot large enough for it to fit comfortably.
Add enough water to submerge the corned beef. Cover pot and bring to a boil.
Lower heat to a simmer and cook for 3 hours. Drain and let cool. Slice against the grain. Preheat oven to 375°F. Pour sauce over corned beef.
Cook, uncovered, for 20-30 minutes, until meat warms through and sauce thickens.
SPICED LONDON BROIL
Serves: 4-6
RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN
London Broil is so fast and easy to make. Serve it with a side of potatoes or over a salad. The Himalayan pink salt truly makes all the difference in the flavor and can be found in most supermarkets or online. This spice rub is great on any protein, so feel free to quadruple it and store in an airtight container in your spice cabinet for up to six months.
1 teaspoon Himalayan pink salt
2 teaspoons chili powder 2 teaspoons garlic powder 2 pounds London broil Extra-virgin olive oil, for serving
Combine salt, chili powder and garlic powder. Rub all over meat on both sides.
Set a grill pan over high heat and spray with nonstick cooking spray.
Sear the meat until medium-rare, about 5-6 minutes per side.
Allow meat to rest for 5 minutes before slicing. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil.
MAPLE LEMON CHICKEN BITES
Serves: 4-6
RECIPE BY NAOMI NACHMAN
Out of all my Pesach menu offerings, this is one of the most requested ones. It’s a little bit sweet and a little bit savory — a true crowd pleaser. You'll find yourself going back for seconds.
3 pounds boneless,
skinless chicken breasts ½ cup + 1 tablespoon potato starch, divided ½ teaspoon kosher salt Oil, for frying ½ cup maple syrup ¼ cup fresh lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon chili powder Cut chicken into bite-sized pieces; toss in ½ cup potato starch and salt.
Add a thin layer of oil to a large sauté pan and heat over medium-high heat.
Fry chicken in a single layer until golden brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. If needed, fry in batches. Transfer to a bowl and pour out excess oil.
Combine maple syrup, lemon juice, garlic, salt and chili powder in the sauté pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Dissolve remaining tablespoon potato starch in 2 tablespoons water and add to the sauce. Raise to high heat and bring to a boil, stirring continuously, until sauce thickens. Add chicken and toss to coat. Reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
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GE T Y O UR HEAD O UT OF T HE GRASS.
lamb ribs
Lamb
BY NAF HANAU
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER
lamb shank
lamb shoulder
GET CLOSER TO NATURE, TASTE THE PASTURE.
Just like beef, lamb cuts can be divided into those that are delicious when roasted at high heat and those that reveal their silky texture and rich flavor only after a long, slow braise. It’s these cuts that we will explore today — shoulder, shanks and ribs. But first, why does lamb taste like lamb and what’s so great about braising?
Lamb’s characteristic flavor comes from, in part, specific compounds in the animals’ fat, which are a result of their diet. More grain leads to a lighter, milder flavor and more time spent on pasture leads to a richer and more complex flavor. The intensity of the “lamby” flavor will also vary from cut to cut, because some cuts are more marbled than others. The braising cuts from the shoulder and shank are higher in fat, which means they’ll give you a richer lamb flavor than a lean, well-trimmed lamb chop.
When you braise, connective tissues, which are notoriously tough, gradually break down into collagen, which gives braised roasts their silky — almost creamy — texture. If your meat is tough, it needs to be braised for longer. Always make sure you have liquid in your braising pan and that the lid is tightly closed to avoid drying out the roast (and ruining your pan). As with brisket, braise your lamb ahead of time and refrigerate until serving. You can skim the fat that comes to the top of the liquid before reheating. Lamb is rich and the meat will still be delicious even if some of the fat is removed from the broth or sauce. You can purée the remaining braising liquid to make a sauce, serve it as is or add a glaze to the meat before serving.
Lamb Cuts Perfect for Braising:
Lamb Shanks: Naturally, shank meat has lots of connective tissue, which can be tough. However, when cooked correctly, the gelatin in the collagen breaks down, adding a rich, smooth quality to the meat and its sauce. For an elegant presentation, serve each guest their own individual shank with a frenched bone. The meat on each bone is relatively lean, very flavorful and makes quite a generous portion.
Lamb Short Ribs: With this cut, you’ll have smaller portions of meat on the bones than shanks, with meat that is more marbled. You’ll also enjoy the strongest lamb flavor thanks to all the bones and fat in this cut. Lamb ribs can be smoked, braised or even slow roasted to allow the connective tissues to relax and the fat to render, yielding very succulent morsels of meat.
BoneIn Lamb Shoulder: One of our favorite holiday roasts, a bonein lamb shoulder is a festive roast that can be braised or smoked; like brisket, you can cook it until it’s tender but still sliceable or until it is soft enough to pull. Layer this tender meat on matzah or mashed potatoes for a flavorful Pesach treat (leftovers will also be amazing the next day in your matzah brei).
Not into lamb?
If you love a melt-in-your-mouth roast but can’t find lamb or just prefer beef, try these substitutions. They’ll be every bit as flavorful and tender as the lamb originals!
Substitute: Osso bucco or flanken Substitute: English-cut short ribs or second cut brisket Substitute: Flanken roast, second cut brisket, chuck pot roast or minute roast
SHANK YOU VERY MUCH.
A richly-spiced tagine of lamb shanks and dates is the perfect main dish for the Seder. Serve with Herbed Cauliflower Rice (see pg. 41 for recipe).
Lamb Shank Tagine
Lamb Short Ribs with Apricots
There are some cuts of meat that people just can’t help but gush over. These lamb short ribs are the perfect example. Whenever our friends make this recipe, we always hear about it. Lamb short ribs are not for the fat-averse — they’re a well-marbled cut. Although much of the fat renders out during the braise, it’s definitely a rich dish, so plan to serve it with crunchy cabbage slaw or simple roasted carrots and creamy mashed potatoes.
RIB YOURSELF THE RIGHT WAY
Garlic-Herb Lamb Shoulder
Pulled lamb shoulder is one of our favorite holiday meals. This is not an elegant roast to pull out of the oven to “oohs” and “ahs” — it falls apart rather ungracefully. But it’s so delicious, no one will mind!
TO THE PASTURE, TO THE BONE.
Lamb Short Ribs with Apricots
Serves: 6
RECIPE BY ADAM SHER
3 tablespoons oil 2 onions, thinly sliced 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 1 teaspoon chili powder, optional ¾ teaspoon cumin 4 pounds lamb ribs 2 cups dried apricots ½ teaspoon ground black pepper Apricot Salsa, for garnish (recipe follows)
Preheat oven to 275°F. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and 1 teaspoon salt and sauté until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add chili powder and cumin; sauté for another minute until spices become fragrant. Transfer onions to an oven-safe baking dish. Layer apricots over onions and nestle the ribs into the onions and apricots. Season with remaining ½ teaspoon salt and black pepper. Pour in enough water so that the ribs are submerged by about one-third, around 2 cups worth. Cover tightly with foil and braise in the oven until very tender, about 3 hours. Then, uncover the pan and raise temperature to 375°F. Continue braising until the fat on the surface is browned, around 30 more minutes. Pour off the rendered fat from the pan. Serve with Apricot Salsa.
Apricot Salsa: Finely dice 4 apricots or 2 nectarines and combine with ⅓ cup chopped fresh mint, 1 finely diced red chili pepper, the zest and juice of 1 lime and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt.
Lamb Shank Tagine
Serves: 6
RECIPE BY NAFTALI HANAU
4½ pounds lamb shanks (about 3 shanks) 2 teaspoons kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 1 tablespoon paprika 2 teaspoons cumin 2 tablespoons olive oil or duck fat 1 large onion, sliced (about 2 cups) ½ teaspoon chili powder 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cinnamon stick 2 teaspoons ground ginger ½ cup chopped pitted Medjool dates, plus 24 whole dates ½ cup pomegranate seeds, for garnish Fresh cilantro, for garnish
Trim shanks of excess fat, then season generously with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine garlic, fresh ginger, paprika and cumin; rub all over shanks. Set aside at room temperature for at least 1 hour. (Alternatively, cover and refrigerate for several hours, or overnight; return to room temperature before proceeding.)
Add oil or duck fat to a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed soup pot over mediumhigh heat. Add onions and chili powder, and sprinkle with salt. Sauté until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and sauté for 1 minute. Lower heat to medium, add seasoned lamb shanks and cook, turning occasionally, until meat and onions are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 400°F. Add cinnamon stick, ground ginger, chopped dates and enough water to barely cover (about 3½-4 cups). Cover and bring to a simmer, then cook in the oven for 30 minutes. Decrease oven temperature to 350°F. Check to make sure that the meat is submerged in liquid; add water if needed. Continue cooking for 1 hour, checking liquid level occasionally, then test meat by probing with a skewer or paring knife. It should be tender and almost falling from the bone.
Remove lamb shanks and place in a wide serving bowl. Skim off any surface fat from the cooking liquid in the pot. Add whole dates and simmer for a few minutes, until sauce is slightly reduced. Pour sauce and dates over meat. To serve, garnish with pomegranate seeds and cilantro.
Garlic-Herb Lamb Shoulder
Serves: 8
RECIPE BY NAFTALI HANAU
3-4 pounds bone-in lamb shoulder roast ¼ cup olive oil 12 cloves garlic, finely minced 1½ tablespoons minced
fresh rosemary, divided, plus 1 whole sprig 1½ tablespoons minced fresh thyme, divided, plus 5 whole sprigs 1 tablespoon lemon zest 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 2 cups dry white wine 2 tablespoons potato starch Using a sharp paring knife, cut slits in the lamb shoulder. Combine olive oil, minced garlic, 1 tablespoon each minced rosemary and thyme, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Rub all over the lamb and marinate in the fridge, uncovered, for 12 hours.
Bring the roast to room temperature and place in a large roasting pan. Preheat oven to 350°F.
Add wine, 2 cups water and herb sprigs. Cover tightly and braise in the oven for 3 hours or until the meat is tender, but not quite falling off the bone. Increase heat to 450°F and braise until the meat is very tender and the top has browned, about 1 hour.
Carefully transfer the lamb to a platter and cover loosely with foil. Let rest for 10 minutes.
While the lamb is resting, make the sauce. Pour the braising liquid through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, then skim off the remaining fat. Whisk together potato starch and 1 cup of the braising liquid in a small bowl until smooth. Bring the remaining braising liquid to a boil, then whisk in potato starch slurry and boil, whisking frequently, until thickened, about 4 minutes. Stir in the remaining ½ tablespoon each of minced thyme and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper to taste, if needed. Serve alongside the lamb.
