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Birthday Greetings
kidding about the alpha thing with the females. Hamm can put her in her place, but he‟s such a gentle giant it‟s not much more than a growl and he walks away. Lol
5/27/2010
Emma did get spayed the first week of May. All went well and she was as good as new within 2 days.
Bing ShoGun's Blue of the Night Dori ShoGun's Nileea Swingin On A Star Emma
ShoGun's Zing A Little Zong
Charlotte ShoGun's Count Your Blessings
She is unstoppable to say the least. Very sweet and is a good listener for the most part. We have been working on tricks and training so she‟s getting good at those.
Hammond and Emma Update Emma is doing well. She and Hamm are best buds (most of the time) and he‟s used to her energy and even enjoys a good
She is very smart and yet has
game or two of tug of war or chasing/wrestling. Generally Emma wins! She‟s little, but she IS in charge. You were not
that Clumber sure! Lol
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attitude
for
She is in love with the lake. Loves water, puddles, muck and grime. She is more „boy‟ than Hamm! The cabin is perfect for her as she discovers the squirrels, chipmunks and birds. LOVES to chase birds… Funny how vocal she is, too. I come home from work and she „talks‟ nonstop for several minutes. Not sure if she‟s scolding me or telling me about her day. Its
Hamm is ShoGun's Sky Blue Water and Emma is ShoGun's Zing A Little Zong Above update taken from an email from Robb Olsen
hilarious though! Well, its time to walk them. Hamm has lost 10 lbs. (which was needed!) and hoping for 5 or 10 more. Now if I could do that!!! (was a loooonnnggg winter!)
This is Nurse Alice, ShoGun’s Alice Nimbletoes, who wants to come to Wisconsin to take care of grandma Helen. 3
News From Chic Denney
ShoGunâ€&#x;s Im It N Thats That
Yesterday (5/1/11) my son completed his first marathon in 4 hours and 30 minutes. My brother and I did the 5K. It was interesting in that we expected
Here are some picts of Emmet learning agility and getting cleaned up.
to fight heat. We actually had to fight cold, rain and hail. That's Oklahoma for you. I was so proud of my son. He wore his medal out to dinner last night. A day to remember for sure...
Information on the Memorial Marathon can be seen at http://www.okcmarathon.com 4
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Dog Parks and Bites: What You Need to Know By: Tracy Hall 
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Off-leash dog parks are great places to socialize your dog, meet other dog lovers, and enjoy a sunny day. But in just a few seconds, a peaceful afternoon can turn into a nightmare should two or more dogs begin to show aggression.
Just like humans have bad days, even the sweetest dog can become aggravated enough to snap. The right combination of stressful elements such as a strange or aggressive dog, not enough food or sleep, or even the desire to guard a favorite toy or person can result in dangerous behavior. Dogs can also be injured during playtime, particularly if one dog is much larger or more rambunctious than the other. If your dog bites or is bitten by another dog, there are steps that you can take to protect yourself and the animal that you love. Who's Responsible? One of the first questions that many people have in the case of a dog bite is who is held responsible. In short, the consensus is that the owner of the dog that bites is considered responsible.
Nearly all dog parks are designated as "use at your own risk." This means that everyone who uses the park has read the park rules, agrees to abide by them, and takes responsibility for their dog's actions. In doing so the park is released from responsibility should a bite occur. According to these rules, if your dog bites another dog it is your responsibility to pay for treatment of the injured dog. Before entering a dog park, be sure to read the rules and restrictions associated with that park to remain informed. 6
Occasionally, an owner might inadvertently violate a park's rules by bringing in a dog that is not suited for the environment. This can include aggressive dogs, very young dogs, female dogs in heat, and dogs that have not been vaccinated. Nearly all dog parks include a rule expressly forbidding aggressive dogs from using the facilities. The problem is that not all owners understand what constitutes an aggressive dog, or they downplay the behavior. In cases where incidents occur as a result of broken park rules, it is best to consult a lawyer as well as notify the organization that runs the park. The First Minutes Matter Whether your dog is the biter or the bitten, the first few minutes can be crucial in treating serious injuries and preventing further attacks. If you see a dog bite occur, ensure that all involved dogs are separated and safely contained. Assess how much, if any, damage was done. Some minor scrapes and scratches can be treated at home; check out our veterinarians' tips on treating minor bite wounds here. If any animal involved shows significant damage such as excessive bleeding, visible bone or muscle tissue, or difficulty breathing or walking, immediately contact an emergency veterinarian. Do not keep an injured dog waiting in pain while you discuss details with another dog owner. You should remove your dog from the park immediately following any bite, whether minor or severe. A recently bitten dog
may be frightened and defensive and the risk for a repeat incident is much higher if the dog remains in the area. Keep It Calm Many dog owners care deeply about their pets. Seeing them scared or injured can be 7
extremely traumatic. Even the calmest person can become emotional when a beloved animal is involved. Remain polite when discussing the incident and avoid confrontational language. Remember that the health and safety of the animals comes first. If emotions are running high, don't be afraid to exchange information and discuss the incident after both parties have had time to calm down. If Your Dog Bites If you find that your dog has bitten another dog, check and secure your dog then seek out the bitten dog's owner. The owners can then exchange information and establish guidelines for contact (e.g. "I will take my dog to the veterinarian tomorrow morning and call you with the results"). Some dog parks encourage the completion of an incident report following any bites, so be aware that a witness or owner might choose to submit a record. If Your Dog Is Bitten After checking and securing your dog, return to the area and look for the other dog's owner. Unfortunately, some novice or irresponsible owners panic and flee before they can be contacted. If this is the case, witnesses might be able to help identify the owner and fill out an incident report. If non-emergency medical attention is necessary for your dog, promptly make an appointment for an examination and keep detailed records of the charges, including
itemized receipts. Establish and stick to an agreement for communication with the other owner. In some cases you might find that medical care is unnecessary. If this is so, a short phone call to let the other owner know can relieve a large amount of stress. After all, they might be worrying about your dog too! 8
After the Bite After the incident it's important to gather what information you can from the experience. If your dog was the biter, think about the circumstances that led up to the bite. Was your dog tired, hungry, hot, or thirsty? Was your dog playing with a much larger dog or with a toy? Analyzing the situation can help you better understand your dog and identify risky situations. Thinking about what happened also can help you understand ways to make you dog's time at the park safer. For example, some herding dogs have a strong prey drive that can be triggered by smaller dogs. If your small dog was injured by a larger dog, consider limiting their play to designated "small dog" areas or those areas without a herding dog already in them. Biting is a natural behavior in dogs, but one that has been actively discouraged for generations. No dog is 100% guaranteed not to bite, and accidents do happen. By being a responsible dog owner you can handle a scary situation with confidence and safety. Always consult a legal professional with concerns about any legal issues surrounding your pet. Understand the rules and regulations for every dog park you visit, and you'll be prepared in the case of any incidents.
For a pet friendly website go to http://www.dogfriendly.com/ . Here you will find all kinds of information about dog parks, pet friendly hotels, beach guides, city guides, etc.
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Photos of ShoGun Dogs at the CSCA Specialty in Orlando, FL.
John Lee tending to Helen who broke her left heel just days before driving to Orlando. 10
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You may all know Paula as the owner of Henry and Wilson. She also happens to be a professional photographer and donated her services at the CSCA National Specialty. Some of her photos from this event can be seen at the following locations: http://www.pbase.com/finnskeeper/clumber_conformation http://www.pbase.com/finnskeeper/clumber_obedience http://www.pbase.com/finnskeeper/clumber_national
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http://www.pbase.com/finnskeeper/clumber_agility
looks hilarious as he is paddling about. And there is
http://www.pbase.com/finnskeeper/clumber_fun_day
Paula is in the process of putting her photos on a DVD which will be available for sale with the proceeds going to the Clumber Spaniel Health
something silly about the way a wet Sussex looks - I'm sorry, but ok like some kind of wet swamp rat”
Foundation. If you are interested, please contact Milford Cole @ cajunclumbers@suddenlink.net, Use “Paula‟s DVD” as the subject.
From a recent posting by Paula Chmura “We had a great time yesterday afternoon swimming in the pool. Henry is starting to really get the hang of swimming. Wilson grunts the whole time he is swimming and 14
Notes from Chris Saint Another diet tip is use canned pumpkin. Dr. Chris Zink who does k9 rehab., suggests measuring your dog's food and cut back by 1/4 of the amount. Replace that 1/4 with twice as much canned pumpkin. Your dog can eat more and lose weight while feeling full. Many dogs just love plain canned pumpkin. Charlotte (ShoGunâ€&#x;s Count Your Blessings) is bored with showing so we are going this weekend due to there being a major on Sunday and then we are going to do other things for a while. I think Charlotte would enjoy all the dogs and people, but hate the restrictions of hotel life. She is getting prettier and prettier each day. I want her to enjoy showing, so I can wait for her to be ready to go again. She loves Obedience and Rally so we are going to work on that and pick up showing again in the summer. She also loves that she has friends come almost every weekend
to play. She is truly "the hostess with the mostess" No person or animal has not fallen in love with her. Thanks for sharing her. From a more recent mail: Charlotte has been confined to home for 3 weeks and we are both looking forward to getting back to classes. She is going to go back to rally and we are going to try our hand at free style. She should be a barrel of fun with that! There are free style events that you can send in videos rather than actually attend [ we will probably do both,].
I was lucky enough to have one of my original clumbers returned to me. Darey is 13 and bright eyed and bushy tailed. Charlotte is still trying to figure her out. They go for walks together and hang out, but Charlotte cannot understand why Darey does not want to play rough and tumble games. They are easing into a friendship. At least there is now someone else who speaks "clumber". :-)
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Finding Lost Pets Although finding a lost animal often seems to depend on luck, it is luck you can help make. There are no guarantees, but there are things people who find their pets do that make a difference. 1) Knock on doors and talk to people in the neighborhood. Most people walk the streets around their home and call their pet. People who knock on their neighbor's doors and ask if anyone has seen their pet instead of just calling are more likely to find it. 2) Hand out fliers with your pet's picture on them and your phone number. Fliers need only have a clear photo of the animal and a telephone number that someone will answer or that is hooked to an answering machine. 3) Go to all local shelters and government agencies charged with picking up stray and lost animals and look for yourself, at least every other day. Calling the animal control department or shelter on the phone is not very effective. Your pet may not yet be listed in the records at the front desk, and the way you describe your pet may not be the way a shelter describes your dog. Any animal may become dirty, matted and neglected looking very quickly, and You must visit the shelter, even if your pet was wearing tags when it was lost. You will need to go to the shelters at least every other day. Few shelters can keep animals for more than 72 hours. Sometimes it takes more than a few days for a pet to be picked up and brought to a shelter.
It's important to visit all the shelters within 20 miles of where your pet was lost. In many areas stray animals are picked up by a government agency which holds them for a period and then turns them over to a shelter. If someone took your pet in for a few days hoping you would knock on their door and ask about it, they might later drop your pet off at the shelter that's most convenient for them, rather the one that's closest. 16
Combining these three things is most effective. Knocking on doors and handing out copies of your flier to your neighbors and to the staff at all the local shelters is the most effective way of looking for your lost pet. What to do next... Unfortunately, the next most successful way of finding a lost animal is through checking the with the highway departments and the shelters' dead lists. Even if your pet is wearing tags and the highway maintenance department is supposed to send a list to animal control, you should check with them directly. There are usually several departments that cover roads in your area. You'll need to check city or town, county and state roads departments, as well as the animal control agencies. Pictures or a copy of your flier should be left with each department. Again, calling is seldom successful, and actually visiting the department is the best way. You should check back once a week. Put an ad in the local paper, and in the papers in surrounding areas. Some people only look in the newspaper to locate an animal's owner. Advertising in the paper can also be important to establish you were actively looking for your pet in case someone were to claim it you meant to give it up or didn't want it. Ask businesses that people who live in the area are likely to use to put up a copy of your flier. This includes gas stations, fast food restaurants, taverns and convenience and grocery stores. Ask if you can put a copy of your flier up in the pet food aisle. If someone picks up your animal and holds it for a few days hoping you will find them just as your pet did, they will need food. Contact local rescue organizations and give them copies of your flier. People who are afraid animals will be euthanized if they turn them over to the shelter might contact a rescue, and rescue people often go through local shelters looking for animals they can help place in new homes. Ask the shelters if they know of anyone doing rescue in the area, even if they don't work with them. 17
Give copies of your flier to veterinarians, groomers, trainers and pet stores and ask them to put them up. Give copies of your flier to people that walk their dogs in the area. They're more likely to spot animals than most people. If you go to the parks early, you may find people who regularly walk their dogs together as an informal group. Dogs on leash notice and want to investigate all kinds of things, even strange birds, lizards and turtles.
Why Do Dogs Like to Tug on Toys? Does your dog love to play tug-of-war? Many dogs enjoy toys made for "pulling". Have you ever wondered what makes tug-of-war and similar games so intriguing to dogs? Why do dogs like to pull and tug on their toys? Some behaviorists think that tug-of-war is a way for dogs to practice behaviors such as pulling meat from bones that were once useful to wild canines. Others have suggested tug-of-war games allow dogs to play without the normal pack rules; it's the canine version of "goofing off." For example, an older and more dominant dog might allow a younger and less dominant dog to win a game, which would be unlikely in another setting. Still others think that tug-of-war is simply a way for dogs to release energy and get exercise. Whether this game is for practice or fun, it's important to choose a great
tug toy to keep your dog safe and happy. Dogs can play tug-of-war with almost anything, including your favorite item of clothing! Finding holes in your favorite sweater can be annoying, but a larger problem is the potential for injury when your dog plays with an unsuitable object.
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Items with lots of loops or threads can become lodged in your dog's teeth and potentially damage the teeth or gum tissue. When dogs pull, they often twist their heads from side to side as they play. If the toy is not designed to stand up to rough play, small pieces can break off and be ingested. Finally, there's the cost of replacing toys that can't stand up to vigorous tugging games. It can be tempting to trim your budget by choosing less expensive toys, but many are made with less durable materials that fall apart in just a short period of time (and wind up costing you MORE money to replace). When choosing toys for a dog that loves tug-of-war, good construction is key. Fabric that resists unraveling and shredding is best, especially for dogs that are chewers.
Do you have a dog that just can't stop pulling? A toy with lots of give might be a good fit. "Bungee" type toys stretch and contract to give your dog an active workout. It's a great way to spare your personal items from "tug-of-war" terror. With the right choice
of toy, tug-of-war can be a rewarding and enjoyable game for you and your dog. As always, regularly inspect your dog's toys and discard them when they show visible signs of wear. Š Copyright 1999-2011 Intelligent Content Corp.
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Spring Training For Your Dog Spring is here. So let‟s talk about spring training for your dog. Exercise is as important for your dog as it is for you. Young dogs and healthy adults alike need lots of it, and even senior pets need a regular daily workout to maintain their health. The type of exercise you choose depends on the age and fitness of your dog, as well as your own lifestyle. Dogs are adaptable and are happy to play Frisbee in the park or take long walks in the neighborhood. Exercise is one of the best ways to spend time with your pet. It's especially important for large breed, working, and active breed types. Dogs are wonderful athletes and most adapt to even strenuous exercise, provided they have had adequate opportunity to "train" and the environmental conditions are not too extreme. Here are some recommendations:
• Daily exercise is recommended unless the weather is especially dangerous or a medical problem limits your dog's activity. Obese dogs and those with heart and lung conditions may be at particular risk, so be sure to talk with your vet before beginning a new exercise regimen. • Spring weather can be unpredictable - warm one day and cold the next. Be certain your dog has plenty of water available at all times, and provide a place to cool down out of the sun. In addition, if the temperature drops sharply (especially below
freezing), exercise should be limited unless your dog is really used to this weather.
 • Tolerance to cold will often vary with the dog's breed and hair coat. If the wind's velocity is more than 10 miles an hour, be careful to prevent hypothermia or frostbite. If your dog is shivering, get him back indoors or in some form of warm shelter. If you live in an area that gets cold and icy, remember that road salt can burn your dog's feet. Don't forget: even in cold weather, an exercising dog needs plenty of water. 20
• Almost all dogs - especially older dogs, those with heart and lung problems, and those with thick hair coats - are likely to have trouble with hot and humid conditions. It's better to exercise in the early morning or evening when the heat is less than 80 degrees and the humidity is less than 30 percent, thus avoiding the hot and humid conditions. © Copyright 1999-2011 Intelligent Content Corp.
How to Survive Puppy Teething and Nipping By Casey Lomonaco on 05/01/2011 Ouch! I am firmly convinced that the evolutionary process made puppies adorable so that we would overlook the fact that their mouths are full of razor blades—blades they do not hesitate to put to frequent use. Nipping and chewing rank high on the puppy
parenting complaint list, and are symptoms of teething, a developmental stage associated with both human and canine infants. Why puppies bite
There are a number of reasons puppies nip, bite, and chew. This behavior starts before puppies even leave the litter—as soon as they begin to develop teeth, they begin receiving feedback on their bite strength from their mothers and littermates. With their litters, puppies learn that biting hard leads to loneliness or, worse, hunger! Bite a 21
littermate too hard in play? She‟ll likely yelp and stop playing with you until you‟ve reclaimed your wits. Bite Mom too hard while eating? You may wind up missing the snack bar as she walks away. Poor, lonely, biting puppies. That is, until they calm down. Then the play party is back on! Puppies also bite and nip to learn the social mores of dog culture. Dogs don‟t play with Legos, video games, and Barbie dolls; they chase, race, tackle, play face-bite games, pounce, tug, and wrestle. This play actually serves a more serious purpose,
teaching the lessons that need to be learned so that a dog can survive in canine society. Dogs don‟t communicate with verbal language; they communicate physically, through body language and contact. Because dogs don‟t have “wars of words,” when the going gets tough, there is often a physical scuffle. When well-socialized dogs find themselves in conflict, the interaction often looks very scary—teeth flashing, growling. More often than not, these interactions are brief, however, and both dogs walk away without injury. It‟s a lot of bluster, but it is a highly ritualized display. If one or more of the dogs is under-socialized, though, the
interaction pattern changes and a player is likely to get hurt. While bite-inhibition training begins while a pup is with its litter, training must continue throughout the dog‟s life, with special emphasis during puppyhood. My dog, Mokie, will be six this July, and we still practice bite-inhibition exercises occasionally. This play actually serves a more serious purpose, teaching the lessons that need to be learned so that a dog can survive in canine society. Here comes trouble (one more reason!)Puppies bite because they are teething and learning to control their bite strength, and because nipping is a way to explore and join the social life of dogs. Another reason puppies bite is because it makes exciting things happen; biting earns attention. Biting for the reaction usually happens after the puppy enters its “forever home.” The typical scene is where the family is quiet, relaxing after a long day. Mom is checking 22
her Facebook account, dad has his feet up watching the game, Suzy is studying, while Johnny plays Xbox. Everyone is ignoring the puppy. Ho-hum. The bored puppy muses, “How can I get this party started?” Biting often works to get attention, so the puppy zooms around the room leaving a wake of torn pant legs in its path. Ignored no longer, now the entire family is looking at and touching the puppy, and “barking” with excitement (yelling at the puppy). Every family member has put aside what was previously interesting in order to focus on the puppy. Mission
accomplished—the party has started! Puppies are very good at training humans to pay attention to them. Mouth manners for the long-term Puppy training should emphasize behavior problem prevention in the adult dog. While most puppy classes teach basic manners and commands like “sit,” “down,” and “settle on a mat,” it is far more important to offer exercises and lessons that prevent behavior problems from occurring in the adult dog. Most of my puppy classes have a heavy emphasis on socialization, prevention of resource guarding, and development of bite inhibition. Puppy training should emphasize behavior problem prevention in the adult dog. Dogs that are confident and comfortable in their surroundings are less likely to bite. Appropriate and extensive socialization helps dogs learn to be confident and comfortable in many different environments. Teaching bite inhibition, controlling the pressure exerted behind a bite, helps stop a dog from causing significant damage in a situation where the dog feels the need to defend itself with teeth. There is a difference between gentle mouthing (a “nip”) and a bite that sends someone to the hospital. Biteinhibition training helps puppies learn polite, gentle mouthing—and that human skin is very delicate! Before discussing techniques and strategies for addressing puppy nipping, I should clarify that nipping and chewing are symptoms of a developmental stage that may last 6 to 9 (or more) months from birth. This is not an issue that will be fixed in a single 23
training session. Consistency is required throughout this puppy period, and regular attention to your dog‟s bite strength is a good idea even well into adulthood. “Do” the right thing There are things you can do to ensure that your dog develops appropriate “mouth manners.” DO wait until your puppy is at least 8 weeks old before separating him from his
littermates. Puppies learn a lot of lessons about appropriate social interaction, including bite strength, from their dam and littermates. Taking puppies away from their litters too early can prevent them from learning these valuable lessons. Be wary of adopting “singletons,” dogs born without littermates. These puppies miss out on a lot during critical stages of development, including essential feedback about the force they are putting behind their bite! DO consider letting your puppy stay even longer with the breeder/litter if the breeder is doing a great job with socialization. DO reserve your spot in a well-taught puppy class before you even bring home your puppy! While many veterinary professionals once recommended starting classes with your dog when the puppy reached 6 months of age (and completed a full round of initial puppy vaccinations), behavior-savvy veterinarians are now changing their positions. Many are now recommending that puppies start in a group class at an early age, as young as 8-weeks-old! Refer to the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) Position Statement on Puppy Socialization for more details. While most puppy-biting is simply nipping, there are cases of aggression developing early in puppyhood; an experienced instructor will realize the difference and help you address the issue promptly. Reserve your spot in a well-taught puppy class before you even bring home your puppy!
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DO make sure that you have plenty of chew toys on hand—pressed rawhide, bully sticks, Nylabones, frozen stuffed Kong products, or even old washcloths soaked in low-sodium chicken broth and frozen are all great treats. Supervise your puppy when he is enjoying his toys. DO hand-feed your dog. Hand-feeding is a great way to improve your bond with your dog, and it offers you lots of opportunities to practice rewarding him for using his mouth politely! Hand-feeding also teaches the dog that you are a very exciting and
rewarding person to spend time with—a bonus! Other family members should practice hand-feeding; encourage guests to hand-feed the dog as well. Of course, small children should not feed nippy puppies by hand. If there are elderly individuals in the home, they should practice this exercise last or wear light gardening gloves when practicing the initial stages of training. Since skin tends to thin as people age, there is a greater likelihood of puncturing. DO manage and redirect. Crates and tethers are valuable management tools. You do not want to associate crate time with punishment, so when your puppy needs to go in
the crate to relax for a bit, offer one of the chew toys you have prepared. Doing so allows you to redirect your puppy‟s teething instincts to an appropriate outlet. If you are using a tether, make sure that your puppy is securely attached in an area that has been puppy-proofed. Neither the crate nor the tether area should make the dog feel socially isolated (keep both in a living area and not in a damp, musty corner of the basement).
DO set up play dates with appropriate puppies and tolerant, well-socialized adult dogs. Your puppy-class trainer will instruct you about how to select appropriate playmates, read canine body language and stress signals, and how and when to intervene if play gets out of hand. DO make sure your puppy is receiving adequate physical and mental stimulation. Sometimes, puppies bite because they are bored and it‟s something to do. If it makes 25
people scream, run, and otherwise “freak out” as well, it‟s a real party starter for a brassy young pup just looking for a good time. Physical exercise and mental stimulation alone will not eliminate the nipping (maturity and training, however, will), but both can often reduce the frequency and intensity of mouthing behavior. Make sure your puppy is receiving adequate physical and mental stimulation. Sometimes, puppies bite because they are bored and it‟s something to do. DO learn to “Be a Tree.” You hardly ever see dogs chasing, nipping, or biting at trees. Why? Because they‟re boring—they don‟t move, squeal, run away, scream, give eye contact, or push the dog away. Trees are just there. “Be a Tree” is a technique that all family members should learn, but it is especially wonderful to teach small children. Contact Doggone Safe to learn more about the “Be a Tree” program and to access some wonderful dog-bite prevention resources. DO give a dog binary feedback on bite strength. Acceptable use of teeth is rewarded with treats, attention, affection, or whatever the dog likes. Unacceptable use of teeth results in redirection (chew on this in your crate for a while) or negative punishment/removal of opportunity (biting makes people walk away from you). For puppies that continue to chase and bite at you when you move away from them, the tether can be especially helpful. Simply walk out of the tether area, cross the room, sing a verse of your favorite song in your head while ignoring your puppy, and then return to begin a new training session. It is essential that this removal of opportunity is unemotional and that it happens instantly and consistently as a response to using unacceptable bite force.
DO teach your puppy to use his mouth politely. There are many of great resources on the internet and several different techniques you can use. As with all puppy training, work in short sessions (average 10 treats per session). Here are some of my favorite training exercises:
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Teach hand-targeting and/or put “kisses” on cue. These are great new behaviors for your dog to learn, but also teach an appropriate way to interact with hands that can earn reinforcement opportunities!
Play “I‟m ok with that.” This idea comes from one of Karen Pryor‟s articles about dealing with puppy nipping. It‟s my favorite way to train bite inhibition.
If your puppy bites your hand hard during any of the exercises, stand up, turn your back on the dog, and walk away or “Be a Tree.” Consider practicing when your dog is tethered so he cannot chase and nip you. Soft-mouth shaping Ian Dunbar has a categorization system for ranking the severity of dog bites. The scale may look a little different for a young puppy without severe aggression but with a normal nipping problem. Here‟s a sample 5-category scale for that situation, with 1 being the least amount of pressure exerted, 5 the maximum pressure. 1. The puppy sniffs or licks the hand. 2. The puppy gently mouths the skin. You can feel teeth without pressure. 3. Moderate mouthing. Slight pressure is applied to skin, but not enough to cause any puncture or tear. 4. The puppy bites hard enough to cause pain, but does not break the skin 5. The puppy bites hard enough to break the skin. There could be additional levels of biting beyond five (the puppy tears the skin, the puppy repeatedly bites the skin, puncturing it, the puppy bites and shakes the hand, etc.). If your puppy is biting at level 5 or higher frequently, consulting with a qualified behavior professional immediately is not optional, but necessary! Soft-mouth shaping is another technique for teaching a puppy to use its mouth politely. To start shaping a soft mouth, place a low-value treat in your hand and 27
present it to your dog. Any reaction at level 3 or lower earns the puppy a click and the opening of the hand; the dog is fed from a flat palm. A level 4 reaction results in a 5second removal of the hand (place it behind your back and ignore the dog). Level 5 reactions result in a temporarily lonely puppy—walk away from the dog for 7 to 10 seconds before reengaging him in training. As the puppy develops better control over his mouth, increase criteria so that only level 2 or level 1 responses earn reinforcement.
Mouthing manners: helpful hints
Introduce movement. It is one thing for a puppy to ignore a stationary hand, but it is much harder to avoid chasing and biting at moving objects. Introduce movement of hands and other body parts slowly while practicing these exercises. If at any point your dog becomes overly aroused by the current level of motion (a six-inch wave of the hand in either direction, for instance), reduce the level of movement (a wiggle of the fingers or a three-inch wave of the hand, perhaps). Reduce movement until your dog is more settled and composed, and
then raise your criteria slightly again.
Some dogs are more inclined to bite ankles than hands. If this is true for your puppy, teach your dog to play with a tug at your side. Redirecting the dog‟s natural tendency to chase and bite at things keeps your pant legs safe and builds great toy drive, a valuable conditioned reinforcer for many dogs!
You can also try tethering your dog and practicing impulse control exercises. Secure your puppy to a strong and stable tether. After asking him to sit, begin
clicking and treating for maintaining the position while you shift your weight from your left to right leg and back. If the dog is able to remain sitting while you do this, slowly begin to introduce larger movements, lifting your right leg and shaking it a bit, for instance. Gradually increase your criteria so that you are able to run past your dog, jump up and down, or wave the hem of a flowing skirt in his face while he sits politely, waiting for reinforcement. If at any point in the game your dog becomes overly aroused and nippy, reduce your criteria to the 28
last point at which he was successful and consider splitting your criteria into smaller steps before proceeding.
Practice initially with low-value treats. Once you complete the training steps with low-value treats, slowly begin introducing treats or toys of higher value. When you introduce a new or more exciting reinforcer, temporarily reduce criteria and go back to the beginning step. Don‟t be surprised if your puppy becomes “nippier” temporarily when you introduce each new higher-value
reinforcer. A puppy may take kibble politely 100% of the time, but still snatch with his teeth for a coveted bit of roast beef. These setbacks are only a temporary part of the learning process; each time you introduce a new reinforcer, your dog should proceed from bite to polite more quickly than with previously introduced reinforcers. The dog is beginning to generalize the skill of generalizing!
After you have practiced with a number of treats and toys, try altering your delivery. Present an open palm with the reinforcement initially. Many puppies
will not bite an open palm, but will bite at a piece of food clasped between the thumb and index finger. When you are ready, move on from the open-palm approach to practicing all of the mouthing exercises holding the treats between your fingers.
When you deliver the treat to your dog, be careful not to jerk your hand away quickly, as this can elicit a chase response. Instead, move the treat toward your dog‟s mouth rather than having him snap at your rapidly retreating hand. Use a cheap pair of gardening gloves in the initial stages of training if your hands are very sensitive!
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Worth the effort While training your puppy not to nip or bite may sound like a lot of work (and, to be fair, puppy-raising is definitely a lot of work), it is one of the most important things you can teach your dog. Bite-inhibition training saves lives; it helps dogs and people stay safe together and enjoy each other more thoroughly. Bite-inhibition training saves lives.
Puppy training should focus on preventing behavior problems in the adult dog—and no behavior problem is more dangerous for dogs and people than biting. Any dog may bite if it senses danger, feels trapped, or experiences pain, among many other reasons. Early and extensive bite-inhibition training provides the confidence of knowing that if your dog ever finds himself in a provocative situation, itâ€&#x;s significantly less likely he will cause serious damage with his teeth. About the author Casey Lomonaco, KPA CTP and a member of the APDT, is the owner of Rewarding Behaviors Dog Training in Binghamton, NY. Casey offers private and group instruction in collaboration with Steve Benjamin, KPA faculty, CPDT, of Clicking with Canines, and Abbie Tamber, KPA CTP.
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A Note from Gracie dated 5/21/11 Gracie here, I had a great day today! Mom and I volunteered to work at the "Rescue Day and Dog Wash" event here in Oklahoma City. It was an all breed rescue with many nice dogs who need "forever homes". Mom reminded me that my sister Lucy was a rescue. She stayed home because she still doesn't like to be around a lot of people. Me...I LOVE people and did the people love me!!! Only one person thought I was part St. Bernard (silly human). The rest either knew that I'm a Clumber or asked. A couple of people said that they have never seen a Clumber in person so I was a celebrity at times. Mom and I walked around to meet people and their dogs then we manned the booth where mom gets our food and treats. We left a little early because it was getting too hot. The lady in one of the pictures below is our dog walker Janette. Pamela, our original walker, injured her knee. I'm tired now and am going to rest on the air conditioning vent. Love & kisses!!!
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How Animal Blood Banks Can Save Your Pet
By: Dr.
Debra Primovic
Thousands of pets require blood product transfusion every year as the result of injury/trauma, toxin ingestion, surgery or other diseases. Advancements in veterinary medical care have increased the need for blood transfusions. Also, as pets have become an important part of the family, many pet owners want to do everything possible to keep their pets alive. When this occurs, how do they get the necessary blood products? Here are the two most common ways. Often blood is purchased from an animal blood bank. Or a veterinarian will use a "donor" pet in their office to orchestrate a transfusion. Veterinarians and their staff often use their own pets as donors however having blood on hand from an animal blood bank can save precious time when an emergency transfusion is required. There are animal blood banks scattered across the country that draw and store blood, making it available to veterinarians. Some animal blood banks are nonprofit organizations that work with volunteer donor pets in the community. Others are for profit businesses that house large numbers of donor pets and sell blood. Some blood banks are organized to immediately ship blood products for emergency use. What is blood? Blood is the complex fluid (technically it is considered a "tissue") that flows through the body's veins and arteries. "Blood" consists of blood cells that are suspended in a fluid called plasma. Blood carries oxygen to cells. It contains fluids, minerals and hormones that nourish tissues. Blood also carries cells that help eliminate toxins and infections. How is the blood used? Packed red blood cells (PRBC's) are units of blood concentrated in red blood cells with minimal amounts of other fluids. These units of concentrated blood cells are commonly used to treat blood loss and anemia. Common causes of blood loss in young dogs include bleeding secondary to trauma, or blood loss from toxins such as rat poison that interfere with the blood clotting system. Anemia may occur in young cats from several infectious diseases. Older pets can acquire anemia from a kidney disease, cancer or autoimmune diseases – or they may bleed from tumors. What do the animal blood banks do? Animal blood banks organize healthy pets for regular blood draws. This blood is drawn into bags and "spun down" to divide the blood into different components. Commonly, blood is separated into packed red blood cells 32
and plasma. These components are used to treat different medical problems. Most blood banks focus on dogs however some blood banks also supply cat blood. Because cats require sedation to donate blood, they are not commonly included in volunteer blood drives. Most cat blood will be drawn from resident donor cats or employee pets. Blood donors are generally rotated on a schedule that allows a fresh supply to be available to balance the blood product expiration dates. A unit of packed canine red blood cells is good for 30 days. Plasma is frozen and remains viable from 90 days up to 1 year, depending on how it is stored and its required use. No sedatives or anesthesia is required for the donor dog. A unit of blood is drawn from the dog's neck while he is lying down and comfortable. Donations generally take about 15-30 minutes and the donor is rewarded with treats and lots of love when the donation is complete. Dogs generally donate approximately 450 milliliters (~ 16 oz) and cats can donate approximately 55 milliliters (~ 2 oz) of blood. If you are interesting in having your dog become a donor – ask your veterinarian for the animal blood bank nearest you
Dogs and Cats as Blood Donors
By: Susan Rubinowitz
Humans have long been implored to give blood - rewarded with a cookie, a glass of orange juice and the satisfaction of knowing their donation of vital fluid could help save a faltering patient. Now an increasing number of dogs and cats are being pressed into service as blood donors to keep up with advances in veterinary medicine, such as open-heart surgery and the removal of tumors and aggressive treatment of traumas that require blood transfusions. Veterinary blood centers sometimes feel the squeeze, with periodic shortages and no big sponsors stepping in to help defray the cost of animal blood banks, said Dr. Jean Dodds, a veterinarian who is founder and head of HEMOPET, a non-profit canine blood bank in Irvine, Calif. "The last two years have been about the same, maybe worse," Dodds said of her supplies of donated blood. "It's worse in the sense that all of us are trying to expand – we're chasing a shadow. We're doing more sophisticated care today, and it's also because of awareness. People want to have the best for their pets." Blood Banks Reward Donors Many blood banks and animal hospitals reward a pet owner for a donation with packages of goodies: pounds of pet food, free exams, dog or cat treats and toys, and a free blood transfusion if it's ever needed. Their pets are also likely to be given a thorough physical, including intensive blood analyses. Federal standards for human blood donations don't apply to animals, but veterinarians follow some general 33
standards. To donate, dogs must be healthy and weigh at least 35 pounds, be between the ages of 9 months and 7 years and be up-to-date on their immunization shots. They cannot be in heat or pregnant and must be free of blood-born parasites. Donation Depends on Size Depending on a dog's size, blood banks will draw between 250 milliliters, the amount a child would donate, and 500 milliliters, about the human adult standard. Dodds draws much of her blood from retired greyhounds who are waiting to be adopted – one of the largest of breeds – and prefers to take only 250 milliliters. Cats should be between the ages of one and nine, weigh at least 10 pounds and be free of illness or pregnancy. Cats will also be tested for feline leukemia, feline AIDS and other diseases. They generally donate no more than 50 milliliters at a time. The process for dogs and cats is painless and is complete in a matter of minutes. Dogs can give blood as often as every several weeks, and many blood banks encourage dog owners to bring back their pets from time to time, especially if the dog takes well to the procedure and has a sought-after blood type. Blood Types Dog blood types are quite different from human blood types. Dogs can have up to 9 parts to their blood type, each named for the antigen DEA followed by numbers 1 through 9. Since dogs can be positive or negative for each of the nine parts, there are thousands of different alternatives. A dog can be a "universal" blood donor if he tests negative for all parts of the blood type except for DEA 4. These dogs are the most sought after donors but, unfortunately, are uncommon. The antigen that causes most reactions to canine blood transfusion is DEA 1.1. Many veterinarians and small community-based blood banks are able to test only for this antigen, especially in emergency situations. The test results are available in minutes. Cats have three blood types, A, B or AB, the last of which is very rare. Most cats in the United States are type A, so it's usually not too difficult for a veterinarian to find a blood donor – in fact, some animal clinics keep a type-A cat around as a mascot and possible donor, in case a transfusion is needed on the spot, said Dr. Jane Wardrop, associate professor of veterinary medicine at Washington State University. If your cat is among the 5 percent of felines with type B blood, you need to make sure you know where you'll be able to get a transfusion if it's needed. A cat with type B – usually found in several specific cat breeds, like the Devon Rex or British short-hair – has an antibody in the blood that rejects type A, so that cat must be given type B, Wardrop said. As with dogs, veterinarians can test for a cat's blood type in just a matter of minutes. Four Canine Blood Banks Over the years, four large canine blood banks have been founded around the country to meet the animal blood 34
needs of their regions. They operate independently. One of those, Midwest Animal Blood Services Inc. in Stockbridge, Mich., accepts only donations of the universal dog blood type, said associate director Valerie Cortright. There are also many small, community-based donor programs across the country. One ray of hope for ending the periodic blood shortages came two years ago from the Food and Drug Administration, which approved the use of a substance called Oxyglobin, an artificial hemoglobin that's being used to replace natural blood in animal transfusions and may one day be given to people, said Wardrop. Oxyglobin can be used with any blood type, she said. Yet until such substitutes become cheaper and more universally available, she said, pet lovers and veterinarians will face the problem of getting enough blood to ailing animals. "It's a major problem to tackle," she said. "We'll get there, but it will take time."
Can Your Dog Be a Blood Donor Dog?
By: Dr. Debra Primovic
There are several community volunteer-based animal blood banks scattered across the United States. If you are interested in more information on blood banks in your area, see our list of animal blood banks or ask your veterinarian for information about the blood bank nearest to your location. Some blood banks recruit both dog and cat donors, however most are dog-only blood banks. If there are no animal blood banks in your area, you could discuss having your pet become an impromptu donor that could be available as needed. Your veterinarian or local emergency clinic may benefit from a list of donor pets in the community that are healthy and meet the qualifications to donate periodically when a pet requires an emergency transfusion. There are several common requirements for donor dogs. In general, the dogs need to be large, healthy and young with a good, non-aggressive personality. No sedatives or anesthesia is required for dogs to donate. Donations take about 15 to 30 minutes. Cats are required to also be young, healthy and at least 10 pounds in weight, however they do require sedation for donation. Most blood banks have some donor and membership requirements. In addition, many blood banks offer membership benefits. Below are examples of requirements and benefits from a nonprofit volunteer animal blood bank that recruits donors in the community (St. Louis Animal Blood Bank*): Example of requirements for potential dog donors:
Must be between the ages of one to six years Are of even temperament Be of normal body weight over 50 pounds General good health Current on vaccinations, heartworm free and on heartworm preventative Females must never have been pregnant and must be spayed 35
Not been a recipient of a blood transfusion Examples of membership requirements: Able to bring pet in every 3 months over a course of 2 years Make a total of 8 donations
Example of membership benefits: For participation in the program, some benefits may include:
The satisfaction of knowing that you are helping to save lives Free annual blood work, heartworm, and ehrlichia and Lyme tests Free blood products for the life of the donor Free blood products for housemates while donor is active in program Emergency fee waived at The Animal Emergency Clinics and an additional 10% off total bill 50% discount on office calls at one local specialist
Please note that the individual benefits will differ with the organization.
Animal Blood Banks in the United States
By: Dr. Debra
Primovic
There are several animal blood banks scattered across the United States. Many blood banks operate as a nonprofit business, recruiting volunteer donor dogs in the community. If you are interested in more information on blood banks, or to determine if your dog would qualify as a donor, please contact the individual blood bank and read Can Your Dog Be a Blood Donor Dog? Below is contact information for some animal blood banks in the United States: Midwest Animal Blood Services, Inc. This blood bank is located in Stockbridge, Michigan and ships to most parts of the country. They supply canine, feline, llama, ovine and bovine blood products. Contact information: Midwest Animal Blood Services 4983 Bird Drive Stockbridge, Michigan 49285 Toll Free: 877-517-MABS Office: 517-851-8244 Website: www.midwestabs.com 36
Eastern Veterinary Blood Bank All volunteer canine blood bank located in Severna Park, Maryland. Contact information: Veterinary Blood Bank 844 Ritchie Highway Suite 204 Severna Park, MD 21146 Phone: (410) 384-9441 Phone: (800) 949-EVBB(3822) Website: www.evbb.com
Hemopet Hemopet is a canine blood bank located in Garden Grove, California. Contact information: Hemopet 11330 Markon Drive Garden Grove, CA 92841 Phone: (714) 891-2022 Website: www.hemopet.org The Veterinarians' Blood Bank, Inc. The Veterinarian's Blood Bank is located in Vallonia, Indiana and works to supply canine blood. Contact information: The Veterinarians' Blood Bank 3849 S. State Road 135 Vallonia, IN 47281 Phone: 812.358.8500 Toll Free Phone: 1.877.838.8533 Website: www.vetbloodbank.com St. Louis Animal Blood Bank This is an all-volunteer canine donor blood bank servicing St. Louis and surrounding areas. Contact information: St. Louis Animal Blood Bank 9937 Big Bend Road St. Louis, Missouri Phone: 314.822.7600 Website: www.stlouisanimalemergencyclinic.com 37
Animal Blood Bank Contact information: Animal Blood Bank P.O. Box 1118 Dixon, California 95620 Toll Free: 800-243-5759 Office: 707-678-7350 Website: www.animalbloodbank.com The Pet Blood Bank The Pet Blood Bank holds frequent blood drives throughout Central Texas. Contact information: Phone: (800) 906-7059 http://www.pettransfusion.com/index.htm Sun States Animal Blood Bank This is an all-volunteer blood bank that is commonly looking for donors. Contact information: Sun States: Blood Banks for Animals, Inc 2927 NE 6 Ave Wilton Manors, FL 33334-2606 Telephone (954) 630-2231 www.sunstates.org HemoSolutions Contact information: 3775 Airport Road Colorado Springs, CO 80910 Phone: (719) 380-1900 Toll-free: 1 (800) 791-2507 Website: www.hemosolutions.com Rocky Mountain Blood Services Contact information: Rocky Mountain Blood Services 17701 Cottonwood Dr. Office 2 Parker, CO 80134 719.522.3227 Website: http://rockymountainbloodservices.com 38
University of California Davis Veterinary Teaching Hospital Blood Bank Contact information: UCDavis VTH Phone: (530) 752-1393, ext. 421. Website: http://www.news.ucdavis.edu/search/news_detail.lasso?id=8551 Website: http://www.ucvmc-sd.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/
Canine Blood Bank of Central Iowa Contact Information: Canine Blood Bank of Central Iowa 6110 Creston Avenue
 Des Moines, Iowa 50321 Phone: (515) 280-3051 Website: http://www.aecdsm.com/caninebloodbank.php Murphy's Blood Bank/Southern Arizona Veterinary & Specialty & Emergency Center Contact information: 141 E Fort Lowell Tucson, AZ 85705 Phone: 520-888-3177 Website: http://www.southernazvets.com/news.htm Dove Lewis Blood Bank Contact information: Northwest Hospital 1945 NW Pettygrove Portland, Oregon 97209 Phone: (503) 228-7281 Website: http://dovelewis.org/ Ocean State Veterinary Specialists Contact information: Ocean State Veterinary Specialists 1480 S County Trail East Greenwich, RI 02818 Phone: (401) 886-6787 Website: www.osvs.net
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Angell Animal Medical Center Contact information: 350 South Huntington Ave.
 Boston, MA 02130
 Phone: (617) 522-7282 Website: http://www.mspca.org Buddies for Life Canine Blood Bank Contact Information: 1400 South Telegraph Road Bloomfield Hills, MI 48302 Phone: (248) 334 – 6877 Website: http://www.ovrs.com/canine_blood_bank/index.php Emergency Clinic For Animals Blood Donor Program Contact Information: Emergency Clinic Animals SC 229 West Beltline Hwy Madison, WI 53713 Phone: 608-274-7772 Website: www.emergencyclinicforanimals.com University of Tennessee College of Veterinary Medicine Contact information: College of Veterinary Medicine
-The University of Tennessee 
 SACS
C247 Veterinary Teaching Hospital Knoxville, TN 379964544 Phone: (865) 974-8387 Website: http://www.vet.utk.edu/bloodbank/index.php Mississippi State University College of Veterinary Medicine Contact information: College of Veterinary Medicine 240 Wise Center Drive PO Box 6100 Mississippi State, MS 39762 Phone: (662) 325-3432 Website: http://www.cvm.msstate.edu/
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Veterinary Teaching Hospital at North Carolina State University Contact information: NC State College of Veterinary Medicine Veterinary Teaching Hospital 4700 Hillsborough Street Raleigh, NC 27606 Phone: (919) 513-650 Website: http://www.cvm.ncsu.edu/vth Michigan State University College of Veterinary Medicine Contact information: Michigan State University/College of Veterinary Medicine East Lancing, MI 448824-1314 Phone: (517) 355-6509 Website: http://cvm.msu.edu Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine Contact information: Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine PO Box 647010 Pullman, WA 99164-7010 Phone: 509-335-9515 Website: http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu Ohio State University Blood Bank Contact Information: Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine 601 Vernon L. Tharp Street Columbus, OH 43210 Phone: Phone: (614) 292-3551 Website: http://www.vet.ohio-state.edu/bloodbank.htm Twin Cities Animal Blood Bank Contact Information: 14690 Pennock Avenue Apple Valley, MN 55124 Phone: (952) 953-3737 Websites: http://www.smaec.com/tcabb/index.php
For more information about animal blood banks in your area, call your local veterinarian, veterinary school or veterinary emergency clinic. They may have information about local blood banks and can guide you to them. 41
SPECIAL THANKS I want to give special thanks to Zuzana for the care she gave Helen during Zuzanaâ€&#x;s visit to the U.S. Poor Zuzana came here from the Czech Republic to have a nice vacation and enjoy the CSCA National Specialty. Instead she spent 13 days taking care of Helen and 4 dogs while they spent 5 days on the road and 8 in Orlando. As many of you know, one of the dogs knocked Helen down 8 steps just a few days before they left for Orlando breaking her left heel leaving her unable to walk except on crutches. Zuzana jumped right in taking care of Helen and the dogs, giving up a lot of the time she could/should have spent having fun and meeting all her Clumber friends. I cannot adequately express my sincere thanks. Otto 42