SEPTEMBER 2011
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK FOR THE CITY
Heads up THE CITY’S LEADING WOMEN / BESPOKE FEMININE TAILORING / PERU: BEYOND MACHU PICCHU SHOOTING: CHOOSE YOUR WEAPON / NEW RANGE ROVER / TIME ZONE-CROSSING WATCHES
Breguet, the innovator.
Type XXII 10Hz, high-frequency chronograph A contemporary interpretation of the legendary Type XX supplied in 1960 to the French Naval Air Force, the Type XII is the first series-produced mechanical chronograph to feature a regulating mechanism that oscillates at a frequency of 10 Hz, enabling measurements to 1/20 th of a second. This major technical innovation is made possible by the physical properties of silicon and the lighter weight of the escapement components; considerably enhancing the watch’s regulating performance. History is still being written... www.breguet.com/inventions
BREGUET BOUTIQUE – 10A NEW BOND STREET
LONDON W1S 3SP
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www.chanel.com FOR DETAILS OF AUTHORISED STOCKISTS PLEASE TELEPHONE 020 7493 3836
Watch in titanium ceramic, a new highly scratch-resistant material. Its unique colour and shine are obtained by the addition of titanium to ceramic and diamond powder polishing. Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water resistant to 200 metres.
Villeret collection complete calendar Half-Hunter Patented under-lugs correctors Secured calendar and moon-phases mechanism Ref. 6664-3642-55B
www.blancpain.com Blancpain Boutiques aBu DHaBi · BeiJinG · cannes · DuBai · eKateRinBuRG · GeneVa · HonG KonG · Macau · MaDRiD · ManaMa MoscoW · MuMBai · MunicH · neW YoRK · paRis · sHanGHai · sinGapoRe · taipei · toKYo · ZuRicH
0845 273 2500
CONTENTS | BRUMMELL 09
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Cover illustration by Borja Bonaque
Show Media Brummell editorial 020 3222 0101 Editor Joanne Glasbey Art Director Dominic Bell Associate Editor Henry Farrar-Hockley Chief Copy Editor Chris Madigan Picture Editor Juliette Hedoin Designer Hillary Jayne Copy Editors Ming Liu, Sarah Evans, Gill Wing Fashion Director Tamara Fulton Styling Assistant Pop Kampol Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth Advertising & Events Director Duncan McRae duncan@flyingcoloursmarketing.com 07816 218059
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showmedia.net brummell@showmedia.net Visit Brummell’s website for more tailor-made content:
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Philip Sinden; Rebecca Pierce
brummellmagazine.net Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group, wearefmg.com Printed by The Manson Group, manson-grp.co.uk Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd and distributed with Financial News. All material © Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. £5 (where sold).
Foreword David Charters tells his male colleagues they should put down the Cristal, step away from the ridiculous sports car and get in touch with their feminine side Money no object A watch for women who care as much about precision movements as looks
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News The new Jaguar suite at 51 Buckingham Gate; Spencer Hart’s flagship store opening; the next-gen mobile headset and more Bespoke dressing One of the few tailors in London who specialises in clothing women Watches Timepieces that tell you Hang Sen and Dow times more elegantly than those boring grey clocks on the office wall
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After the City Natalia Barbieri gave up Forex trading at Deutsche Bank to design shoes that are handmade in Milan and worn by the A-list
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Head for the top Meet eight of the high-flyers who made the 2011 FN100 Influential Women list Travel Discovering the treasures Peru offers away from the crowds climbing Machu Picchu Shooting Make sure your commitment to over-andunder or side-by-side is no shotgun wedding Style Dressing for work doesn’t mean ‘workwear’ when the fabrics are this sumptuous By George The new Range Rover Evoque – sporty, luxurious but still handles a potholed track
FOReWORD | BRUMMeLL
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Sanity, thy name is woman Gender stereotypes may be misleading, but personal experience would suggest that female financiers react better to success than their male counterparts. Would the City benefit from fewer men behaving madly? Words David Charters Illustration Jack Hudson
Does success spoil women less than men? In the City, it is hard to draw a meaningful conclusion. The number of women in senior revenue-generating roles is not as low as it was, but still not where it should be. Those who make it are probably not representative of a broader group, and anyway we are not supposed to generalise. Labellism is the last great ‘-ism’ that needs a stake driven through its heart, so let’s bin the stereotypes and look at real people instead. Except that the stereotypes do seem to have something going for them. When men ‘make it’, how do they react? If making it means big pay cheques, then there are certainly an awful lot of men in whom it does not bring out the best. I went through the classic boy-trader phase myself when I broke through the millionpound-a-year barrier almost two decades (and two divorces) ago: the big country house with land and woods and lakes (yes, size does matter); the fast car – how many men do you see sitting in traffic in the Square Mile in supercars that they can barely park let alone drive properly? – and of course the expensive holidays to the places that all the other bankers go to so we can all be together on holiday the way we are at work. But it felt good. It was tangible evidence of success, the realisation that I had made it, and who could possibly challenge me, when I could point to all the gold and silver in my trophy cabinet? And of course there were things that we did to excess, not because we needed to, but because we could. We didn’t really need to drink Cristal all day at the Rascasse Café while we watched the Monaco Grand Prix, but when we staggered out at the end of the day to catch the helicopter back to Nice for the flight home,
it showed that we were men. If it all sounds a little superficial, that’s because it was. It was not universal. There were an awful lot of quieter, serious men who did not overdo it, stayed grounded and avoided most of the pitfalls awaiting the unwary. But I guess they were a minority. My female colleagues were different. They were partly different because their starting points were different. For those with children, the principal source of their self-esteem seemed not to be the trading floor, but their home and family. They did not feel the need to party hard to prove their femininity, or drink to excess, or leave their spouse for a younger model to show their allure. They were more focused, more serious, and probably more conscious that success was not something they could take for granted. And the pressures on women are different. Men can be themselves. Aggressive, sharpelbowed, single-minded and determined. If women show similar characteristics they risk being viewed as pushy, unfeminine and shrill. Double standards? Sure, but it is a competitive world out there, the prizes are huge, and anything that holds back a potential competitor is fair game. High-powered City women who have children are condemned to juggling, because they never forget they are mothers. Highpowered men have their wives to delegate to.
My female colleagues did not feel the need to party hard, or drink to excess or leave their spouse for a younger model
Of course, we are all modern fathers now, we put in face time at speech day and nativity plays (if only we could delegate those…) and we are proud of the number of nappies we change at weekends when the nanny is off – though quite why she is off at weekends when I get home and need to relax is beyond me. The difference is that women carry it round in their heads all the time. Most men are not capable of multitasking, especially if they are doing the equivalent of flying a fast jet in combat on the trading floor already. And there are those exceptional husbands who stay at home. Other men praise them, pay lip service to their achievement, cite them as examples of modern men overturning stereotypes, but after a few beers in the car park at Twickenham, when real men are comparing notes, no one says they wish they were a househusband. The reality is that only a thin veneer of civilisation covers the brute nature of man, and the pressures of the City – huge risk, huge reward and, in professional terms, sudden death at any time – tend to make it wear thin. We are primitive, status-conscious and selfish. Modern technology adds to our problems – a short attention span, low boredom threshold, the need for instant gratification. Yet we still demand unconditional love. And who can provide it? That’s right. And they do, while still competing head to head with us at work and often winning. I have a troublesome feeling that I may be on the wrong side of evolution. Perhaps the innate superiority of women is going to make us all redundant. Perhaps it is time it did. ‘The Ego’s Nest’, the fifth novel in the Dave Hart series about life in the City by David Charters, is published by Elliott and Thompson, price £6.99
www.canali.it
126-127 New Bond Street, Tel. 0207 2903 500 london.bondst.shop@canali.it
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MONEY NO OBJECT The Omega Ladymatic contains the best mechanical movement found in any woman’s watch, with beauty to match Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
It is because women are so often practically minded that the majority of watches aimed at them contain quartz movements. They keep better time than mechanical ones, are cheaper, are usually more robust and will run for years on one tiny battery. But no true horolophile would give a quartz movement wrist room: mechanical movements are all to do with the heart of the machine, the components that turn and mesh and pulse and that ultimately lend soul to a watch. And now more women are demanding mechanical-movement watches, which is why Omega has introduced a new range of Ladymatic
models containing the groundbreaking 'Co-Axial' movement, one of the most accurate on the market. Invented by English horologist Dr George Daniels and first used by Omega in 1999, the Co-Axial is designed to keep superb time and, to quote the original spiel, ‘remain unaffected by the deterioration of its lubricant.’ Each Ladymatic comes with a four-year warranty and, even better, has a transparent case back so you can see everything working. Far more interesting than looking at a boring old battery. Omega Ladymatic in rose gold and diamonds, £22,300; omegawatches.com
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Glashßtte Original – 165 years of German watchmaking art. Seventies Panorama Date
The Seventies Panorama Date. Flowing curves capture the spirit of the Seventies in a fascinating, iconic design. The domed sapphire crystal case back and easily-adjustable bracelet offer the ultimate in wearability. Discover the art of fine German watchmaking at www.glashuette-original.com. Download our new iPhone Application in the App store.
London W1S 2SA 43- 44 New Bond Street T: 020.7493 2299 Paris Vienna Madrid New York Hamburg Berlin Munich www.wempe.com
news | beAumonde
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A Parisian debut, whisky masterclasses and an invitation to an exclusive event
Hearing aide ↑ One of the downsides of using your mobile as a personal organiser is how you check your calendar while simultaneously taking a call. The Jawbone ERA eradicates such multitasking conundrums courtesy of its military-endorsed, Bluetooth-based wireless technology. Not only does this discreet earpiece automatically adjust volume levels to accommodate external interference, it also lets you dictate text messages and receive a spoken caller ID on incoming phone calls. Using it is simple too. Shake the ERA to pair it with your phone, then tap anywhere on the device to answer – and end – calls. Now we're talking. £99.99; jawbone.com
one-stop shoe shop ↑ This summer saw the welcome opening of the Harrods men’s shoe department – the largest in Europe. Visit the lower ground floor to take advantage of all the best footwear brands in one place – bringing together the traditional masters of handcrafted footwear, sought-after designers and upcoming names. Take your pick from the latest styles by Grenson, Church’s, Paul Smith, Balenciaga and Ralph Lauren, to name a few. Or order from the bespoke service which will personalise shoes in any chosen colour, leather and finish, and visit the Exotic Room for footwear and accessories in an array of colours and skins, including snake, ostrich and stingray. harrods.com/mens-shoe-salon
Dedicated drams Whisky aficionados should mark their diaries to drop by The Whisky Exchange Whisky Show at Vinopolis, SE1 (7–8 October). Examples of the master distiller’s art are available for all to taste with an all-inclusive ticket, so visitors can sample whiskies from around the world: Japanese, Indian, even English. As much for novices as for collectors and connoisseurs, the show also offers masterclasses and a dinner designed by whisky and food pairing expert Martine Nouet. whisky-show.com
exclusive invitation: unsung Heroes event brummell has joined up with Leica, bremont and Piper-Heidsieck Champagne for an exclusive event celebrating ‘unsung Heroes’ on Tuesday, 4 october (6.309pm) at the Leica studio, 34 bruton Place, w1. expedition photographer martin Hartley will speak about his experiences photographing some of the world’s most remote and challenging environments. Leica is offering the opportunity to attend a photography workshop at the Leica Akademie on using its new m9 camera. And bremont will celebrate the release of the P-51 limited edition chronograph chronometer (right) with a prize draw to fly with one of the brand’s founders, nick and Giles english, in their Fifties broussard plane. Champagne will be provided courtesy of Piper-Heidsieck. To request your ticket, email your name and address to duncan@ flyingcoloursmarketing.com
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beaumonde | news
man made Mass-market fragrance is a little bit like the Hollywood studio system: too often, too many people get a say in how it all ends, and the outcome is a product that lacks originality and soon fades. Independent fragrance brands, on the other hand, have far more creative freedom. Take the family-run Sisley, whose first men’s fragrance has been over 20 years in the making. And Eau d’Ikar is certainly worth the wait. It is first and foremost a lush green scent, but gradually becomes a heartier accord of wood, leather and spice that’s deserving of lasting star status. From £57; sisley.com
East meets west One of the latest clutch of Paris hotel openings and revamps, the Shangri-La fuses aristocratic history with Asian art and service and intoxicating Parisian views. The Hong Kong group’s first European foray has unleashed Pierre-Yves Rochon, interiors guru for the new Savoy, and Richard Martinet, the architect behind the George V’s refurbishment, on the elegant period building, once the gaff of Roland Bonaparte, Napoleon’s grandnephew. With a 16th arrondissement location, the restoration is surrounded by private gardens and sports glorious Belle Époque interiors alongside Asian artwork, plus the latest whiz-bang technology. Doubles from €650; shangri-la.com
spoon feeding ↓ The Silver Spoon – first published in 1950 and the most successful Italian cookbook of all time – is now being relaunched with over 2,000 revised and updated recipes from throughout the country, including new dishes from the likes of City favourites Giorgio Locatelli and Ruth Rogers. If you’re keen to know your bavette from your bucatini, your ciabatta from your focaccia, accept no (food) substitute. £29.95; phaidon.co.uk sweater savant Nestled in the hills of Solomeo in central Italy, a renovated medieval fort seems a most unusual home for a factory. But then, Brunello Cucinelli is a most unusual man. A cashmere expert who first introduced colour to the fabric, and whose brand is today sold worldwide, the self-professed businessman-philosopher has also devised the ‘Humanistic Company’, vowing to always put human values first and to encourage creativity. In the tiny hamlet of Solomeo he has carefully restored the fort where his factory is based, the old parish church and also the 17th-century Villa Antinori. In 2000, he expanded this to include an amphitheatre to host outdoor cultural events along with a restored academy building where young people can study art, English and philosophy. A company with ethics you can get behind – and gorgeous cashmere to boot. brunellocucinelli.com
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beAumonde | women's tAiloring
Fit for purpose Katherine Hooker has an instinct for tailoring that flatters the female form, and her new online store means bespoke need not be off limits words Charlotte Metcalf Photography Joakim Blockström
There is a reason why Katherine Hooker is one of the only tailors in London who specialises in dressing women. When she made her first ‘Braid’ coat, now a popular staple of her brand, she took it to a Savile Row tailor to help her with the final adjustments. ‘He admired the coat’s cut, then suggested I move a front seam left and down by a quarter of an inch,’ says Hooker. ‘It perfected the coat, so I rang to thank him and asked why he didn’t make women’s clothes. He laughed, “One reason and one reason only: boobs!”’ It is to Hooker’s advantage that tailors shy away from the various shapes that women come in. ‘There are only about three male body types and mostly we’re dealing with bellies, which just means altering the circumference,’ says Hooker. ‘But look at women! They come in a hundred different forms, so you have to worry about balance as well as width and height. What’s more, women are very sensitive about their bodies and most want clothes that make them look 10 pounds thinner.’ The secret to Hooker's cut is that her clothes are narrow-shouldered and fitted under the armpits, providing a long, lean and flattering silhouette. Those of us who own a Katherine Hooker jacket are used to spotting each other in the street and smiling conspiratorially, or being stopped constantly and asked where our coats come from. Eight years on, her sunny, unassuming shop stands on a quiet street off Lots Road in Fulham. It is to here that customers flock to have their unique coat or jacket made, and to choose material, linings, trims and buttons from an array of British tweed, cashmere, wool, linen and silk. ‘I source everything in Britain,’ says Hooker. ‘That way, I have total control over quality and a reliable connection with my suppliers.’ This month, Hooker is launching an online shop, katherinehookernow.com, selling seven styles in sizes 8 to 14 at a lower price, along with accessories, including bags, snoods, scarves, belts and mittens. Her clothes are already being sought after by exclusive boutiques in Manhattan, Cincinnati, Miami and Washington, following a series of sell-out ‘trunk shows’ in the US, at which she presented her designs direct to buyers. Hooker is sanguine about her success, appreciating that though many women may want to wear beautiful bespoke clothes, not all can afford them. ‘What I’m offering is virtually an haute couture coat but at an affordable price,’ she says. Hooker is American, although she has no trace of an accent. She understands intuitively that busy, working women on both sides of the Atlantic want to look classic, elegant and smart, but that they also want to stand out confidently as possessing their own style. Her clothes are enabling women from Wall Street to Kensington Palace to do just that. Katherine Hooker bespoke jackets are priced from £470 to £970 and coats from £520 to £1,175; katherinehooker.com
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WaTChes | beaumonde
Zone rangers You could just mentally add eight hours when you land in Hong Kong, but it is so much more stylish to consult a beautiful watch with a choice of times Words Simon de Burton Photography Tif Hunter
Girard-Perregaux WW.TC Chronograph As if making a watch capable of simultaneously displaying 24 different time zones isn't tricky enough, GirardPerregaux has added chronograph and date functions to this version of its covetable WW.TC (‘worldwide time co-ordinated’) watch. The central 24-hours ring is divided into light and dark halves to indicate day or night, while the left-hand crown is used for toggling between time zones. £9,950; girard-perregaux.com
Linde Werdelin Two Timer The USP of Linde Werdelin watches is that they can all be married up to a clip-on sports computer, designed either for diving (the ‘Reef’) or land-based sports (the ‘Rock’). Further versatility comes with the Two Timer watch, which features an extra GMT hand providing a second time-zone reading. A Three Timer version, giving a reading in three different zones simultaneously, is also available. €3,709; lindewerdelin.com
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Geographic This beautifully designed time-zone watch features a power-reserve indicator and date, with the second time zone being displayed on a small sub dial at the six o’clock position. All of the world’s important cities are marked on the disc below, so it’s just a matter of aligning the relevant one with the arrowhead when you arrive at your destination in order to set local time. Home time, meanwhile, continues to be read from the main dial. £8,050; jaeger-lecoultre.com
Zenith Captain Dual Time Time-zone watches don’t come much more simple or elegant than Zenith’s latest take on its Captain Dual Time, from its recently introduced range of retro-look ‘legacy’ watches. The small dial at the nine o’olock position counts the seconds, while the blued steel hand with arrow tip indicates the time at destination. Quick and easy adjustment is carried out using the push piece at the 10 o’clock position on the 40mm case. £8,500; zenith-watches.com
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time If you’re seeking the ultimate in world-time wristwatches, this is currently it: while most can simultaneously show the time in 24 cities, the Patrimony Traditionnelle does so in a remarkable 37, including some that are off-set by 30 or 15 minutes. The watch includes many ingenious features, such as a central sapphire dial, half clear for day and half tinted for night in different locations. £31,100; vacheron-constantin.com
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stAnding tAll With Kate, Keira and Rihanna wearing their heels, Natalia Barbieri and partner Jennifer Portman plainly have a talent for taste
Step change Trading Deutsche Bank for shoe design, Natalia Barbieri put her business skills to use when she decided to turn heel Words James Medd Photography Joakim Blockström
Described by one fashion editor as ‘the kind of shoes that make women stop strangers in the street’, Bionda Castana shoes have won the approval of fashion bible Italian Vogue and are worn by some of the world’s most glamorous women, including Kate Moss, Keira Knightley and Rihanna. To their number, add Natalia Barbieri, who is certainly glamorous and can usually be seen wearing her favourite pair of Bionda Castana cheetah ponyskin ankle boots. Barbieri is also one half of the brand, the ‘castana’, or brunette, to business partner Jennifer Portman’s ‘bionda’ (blonde). The pair met 14 years ago on an International Business with Languages course at London University, where they bonded over a shared Italian heritage and an interest in fashion. ‘We had a culture in common, we went on similar holidays as children,’ says Barbieri, ‘and we both loved fashion. In particular, shoes.’ On graduation, Barbieri worked in foreign-exchange trading for Deutsche Bank as a sales assistant. She was, she says, ‘just following what I was told I should be doing. They
wanted someone who spoke Italian and Spanish and so I went for it.’ She learned a lot – ‘how to network, how to deal with stressful situations’ – but wasn’t fulfilled. Meanwhile, Portman was working in marketing and felt exactly the same: ‘Jennifer and I were constantly going on about working with accessories and creating our own brand. It niggled us, so after three years we said, “If we don’t do what we want to do with our lives now, we never will.”’ That was in 2004. After two years running an online business importing selected Italian shoes, they finally decided to take the plunge into designing their own, launching the company in September 2007. The crucial part was finding the factory that could make, by hand, their designs to the quality they were looking for. ‘Without good production, you’re nothing,’ she says. ‘We struck gold with a family-run factory – the dad is 85 years old and he still cuts the patterns. It’s just outside Milan, where all of the great designers make their shoes. You can’t beat the craftsmanship there.’ Portman now spends half the year in Italy, overseeing production, while Barbieri remains in London looking after the marketing, but they both design. Their signature look – glamorous, handmade statement shoes with a stiletto heel and metallic detailing – has expanded now they’ve made their mark, but the vision remains the same: ‘When we sit down together and work through all the designs each of us have come up with over the year, we find about 50 per cent of it is exactly the same as the other’s. I’ll say, “I really want to do a nice big block heel,” and Jennifer will whip out a design with a fat block heel.’ Although they’re always moving forward, they don’t expect their designs to be discarded at the end of the season. ‘Our shoes are investment pieces,’ says Barbieri. ‘You could wear a style from 2008 and it would still look great. Fashion’s fun, that’s the point of it, but we do regard our shoes as works of art. I know people who don’t wear heels but buy them just to put on display.’ From here, the plan is to open their own shop in London within 18 months, and then progress steadily, with the ultimate ambition of reaching the status of an international luxury brand. They’d also like to branch into bags and maybe even jewellery. Men’s shoes is another area under consideration, although that might seem a little dull after the glamour of their women’s designs. ‘Oh no,’ says Barbieri confidently. ‘We’d make it fun.’ Prices start at £385; biondacastana.com
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In the wake of a global financial crisis, in which the sector was criticised for macho risk-taking, there have been increasing calls for greater representation of women at the highest levels of decision-making. Banks have a long way to go – Financial News found that, of the 220 bankers on executive committees at 20 of the biggest investment banks, only 17 are women. But the industry has taken note and momentum is building to identify
Photography Philip Sinden words Yasmine Chinwala
and support female talent to follow in the footsteps of those listed on the fifth annual FN100 list of the most influential women in European financial markets. From a list of 250 nominees, assessed for their influence, leadership of their company and market sector, and career performance, a final 100 were selected, eight of whom we profile here. To read profiles of all the FN100 Influential Women, visit efinancialnews.com/fn100
Kay Swinburne, meP ↓ Coordinator of the Economic and Monetary Affairs Committee The forthcoming review of the markets in financial instruments directive is set to have the biggest impact on financial markets since Big Bang in 1986. Swinburne’s influence over Mifid II reaches far and wide. Her report on the subject, drawing on market operators, participants and regulators, has shaped the European Commission’s thinking and she will continue to feed into the legislative process. Born and raised in Aberystwyth, Wales, Swinburne has a PhD in medical research and worked in corporate finance. When she became an MEP in June 2009, it was the first time since 1918 the Conservatives had won the largest share of the vote in Wales, which Swinburne says is a highlight of her career. In her constituency, she ‘spends a lot of time in wellies’, and spent the summer talking to farmers about reforms to the Common Agricultural Policy and protecting the local bee population.
Ana Haurie ↑ Group managing director, Dexion Capital
Haurie openly admits that she was ‘a lousy employee’ so she plotted a course to be her own boss. Ten years ago, she started running the advisory business at newly founded alternative investment specialist Dexion, and was promoted to lead the group in 2006. Since inception, Dexion has raised nearly $1 trillion in assets, and in the past year Haurie has worked on deals for some of Europe’s biggest hedge funds, including GSO Capital Partners, Brevan Howard and BlueCrest Capital Management. She is now intent on broadening Dexion’s activities, and by the end of this year hopes to have a boutique investment banking capability in place. Her longer term plans are to grow Dexion’s distribution platform beyond hedge funds into private equity, infrastructure and renewables. She says the best piece of advice she has been given is: ‘Don’t be afraid of making mistakes and relish change.’
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Alison Rose ↑ Head of Emea corporate coverage and client management, global banking and markets, RBS
RBS is three years into its five-year turnaround plan, but for Rose it has been business as usual. She leads a team of 300 staff and is responsible for coverage of more than 600 corporate clients as well as financial sponsors and infrastructure finance, globally. She is among the bank’s top executives and a member of RBS’s global banking management committee, Emea executive committee and board-level credit approver authority. Coming from a military family, Rose learnt a lot from moving every year. She is driving the bank’s diversity initiative and, as a mother of two, says it’s important not to ‘sweat the small stuff’, nor to feel guilty about your kids while you are working and vice versa. She is taking inspiration from Letters from Leaders: Personal Advice for Tomorrow's Leaders from the World's Most Influential People, compiled by Henry O Dormann.
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Bronwyn Curtis Chairman of global research, HSBC Curtis joined HSBC three years ago with a remit to address the voice of its research. Drawing on her experience as European managing editor of Bloomberg, she has pushed to raise the profile of HSBC’s research both within the bank and to its clients by producing analysis quickly and using multimedia to increase accessibility. When HSBC’s chief executive Stuart Gulliver presented the bank’s strategic review in May, it was informed by her team’s research, particularly reports focused on changing dynamics in emerging markets. One of a handful of top female executives who support boardroom quotas, this year Curtis became a co-sponsor of HSBC’s diversity programme. She previously worked in senior roles at Deutsche Bank and Nomura and is an economic commentator on television. She was awarded an OBE for services to business economics in 2008.
33 BRUTON STREET, LONDON W1J 6HH TEL: +44 (0) 20 7499 4411 GUNROOM@HOLLANDANDHOLLAND.COM WWW.HOLLANDANDHOLLAND.COM
Lisa Rabbe ↓ Head of public policy for Europe, the Middle East and Africa, Credit Suisse While many girls dream of being a ballerina, Rabbe, whose parents were both dancers, decided at the age of 12 that the ballet was not for her. Instead she is proud to have built a career in public policy without working for the government. She started the public policy group at Goldman Sachs 18 years ago, just as EU banking regulation came into existence, and joined Credit Suisse last year. Rabbe describes EU rulemaking as ‘threedimensional chess’, with conflicting nationalities, political parties and perspectives. Her role involves advocacy on behalf of the bank as well as a pivotal role advising senior management on the bank’s strategic response to rapidly changing regulation. At the top of her agenda is the review of Mifid and initiatives to end ‘too big to fail’. In her spare time, Rabbe enjoys Russian literature and, of course, the ballet.
Diana Chan ↑ Chief executive, EuroCCP
At the age of two, Chan left communist China on a fishing boat with her grandmother in search of a better life in Hong Kong. After graduating, she went straight into the world of finance, first at JP Morgan and then at Citigroup. She joined EuroCCP in 2007, growing it from a start-up to an established clearing house with a team of 30. EuroCCP is well positioned to benefit from important new interoperability rules, for which Chan has been actively lobbying for several years. By allowing market participants to choose their preferred clearer when trading on an exchange, the rules will encourage competition and reduce clearing costs. EuroCCP has already been selected as the preferred clearer by several banks and trading venues, and is expected to pick up more custom. In her spare time, Chan enjoys cooking, turning her hand to ‘new and delicious things that have a high ratio of pleasure to effort’.
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Dörte Höppner ↑ Secretary General, European Private Equity and Venture Capital Association
Höppner is the new kid on the block in the EU. She took over at EVCA, the private equity industry’s trade body, this year, having led Germany’s buyout association BVK since 2007. Armed with a guidebook and The History of Belgium, she has been shuttling back and forth from Berlin, where her family live, to Brussels, her weekday home, and getting stuck into EU politics. Her priority is ensuring the right regulatory framework for the buyout industry and hammering out the technical details of the alternative investment fund managers directive. She is a seasoned lobbyist – last year she was involved in an effort to fight moves in Germany to prevent foreigners buying more than a quarter of local companies, and has been a vocal critic of Germany’s tax regime. Höppner previously worked in public relations for the German Institute for Economic Research, and was also a journalist.
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Polina Kurdyavko Senior portfolio manager, BlueBay Asset Management Of Armenian descent, Kurdyavko grew up in Moscow, but she is a far cry from the Russian princesses strutting around Chelsea. With no connections to help her get a foot in the corporate door, she was inspired to work hard, learn and persevere by her ‘driven and optimistic’ mother. She began teaching English to fund her education at the age of 14, then went to the US as a dishwasher to perfect her English and worked as a travel agent in Paris to learn French. Kurdyavko got her break in fund management at Alliance Capital, where she worked full time while she continued studying for a Master’s degree. She moved to London in 2001 and joined BlueBay in 2005 as a credit analyst. In 2008 she launched the firm’s emerging market corporate bond fund with just $20m. It is now one of the largest funds in the sector at $5bn. To unwind, Kurdyavko enjoys reading poetry, as she finds it ‘soothing and beautiful’.
Jeff Blumberg, 35 Chief executive, Egerton Capital Blumberg says the greatest achievement of his career so far is joining Goldman Sachs as an analyst in 2000 and leaving 10 years later as a managing director – one of four MDs responsible for running Goldman’s $20bn fund of hedge funds business. He was also co-chief operating officer of the bank’s hedge fund strategies group and a member of its global manager strategies investment committee. Last summer he joined European equities specialist Egerton, where founder John Armitage’s flagship fund has returned 16 per cent annually since inception in 1994. Although Blumberg doesn’t manage money himself, under his leadership assets under management have grown from $3.9bn when he joined last June to $5.3bn.
PhotogRaPhER’s assistant James McNaught haiR & MaKE-UP Caroline Sims at DWM Management, assisted by Lucy Flower
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Travel | BrUMMell 37
TiTle here CIn henisit alm er ssdi eugait volum zriure facilla feuis niat utpat pratuae dolore te te consed tat at autatio el in ut nonseel
DARKEST PERU As the crowds celebrate the centenary of the discovery of the Incan city Machu Picchu, a trip to Peru’s deserted north yields treasures from an older, more brutal civilisation Words Ian Belcher I’m haggling with a huaquero (tomb robber to you) in a dark and frankly disturbing Peruvian market surrounded by iguana carcasses, dead Amazonian monkeys and sprigs of shamanic herbs. Ruben wants $50 for the rusting ceremonial dagger stolen from an ancient burial site. ‘I’ll take 40,’ he says, reaching under the counter for a ceramic vessel with a face staring proudly from its side. ‘And I’ve got this. They’re both from the Moche graves at Batán Grande.’ I’m easy prey. Appalled yet fascinated, I'm also clueless about genuine artefacts from the Moche civilization, which thrived in Peru 1,000 years before the Incas. But my companion, the renowned archaeologist Guillermo Cock, is unimpressed. He taps the pot, notes the
resonance and nods. ‘Original,’ he confirms. ‘Fine clay sand fired at high temperature. These men aren’t professionals. And even if you got the price down, you’d be arrested at the airport.’ Arrested for smuggling hot cultural contraband? It’s wrong. Horribly wrong. But also, I have to admit, slightly thrilling. Problem is, I’m alone with a khaki-clad archaeologist and a villain straight out of Hollywood central casting. I make my excuses and leave, passing huge blue butterflies poached from the rainforest, dark liquid sexual tonics and lurid religious amulets, finally emerging into the sunshine of Chiclayo, 500 miles up the coast from Lima. Hundreds of miles inland from the capital, you can enjoy a less edgy – although much more
precipitous – South American adventure. Tourists – 2,800 of them a day – are swarming around the iconic ruins of Machu Picchu. Some have arrived on foot, others on horseback, but most came on trains, switching to a bus for the final climb along hair-raising switchbacks. It’s dramatic, of course, and perhaps the most multidimensional tourist attraction on earth. But as Peru celebrates the centenary of the Inca citadel’s rediscovery, it’s a bigger draw than ever, attracting huge numbers of Western visitors to Peru. Ruben and his like inhabit a vastly different, near-undiscovered world. It’s obvious why huaqueros have prospered around Chiclayo. Rather than the elegant yet austere Incas, the northern coastal desert was
38 BRUMMEll | tRavEl lost KINGDoM The flamboyant Moche wore elaborate treasures like this figurative nose ornament, right, discovered at the Lords of Sipán tomb at Huaca Rajada (pictured, previous page)
home to the flamboyantly artistic Moche from 200 to 850AD. ‘Their high lords used jewellery and possessions to enhance their powerful image,’ explains Guillermo. ‘An Inca governor wore a few hundred grams of gold and silver; a Moche several kilograms.’ That difference has meant rich pickings for commercial looters supplying overseas collectors, as well as for locals, who regard grave robbing as a traditional Easter holiday pastime. But many treasures have survived the onslaught, including the astonishing haul discovered in the graves of a fourth-century warrior and his ancestor buried underneath him, collectively known as the Lords of Sipán. These are now displayed in a wonderful neo-pyramid in nearby Lambayeque. The collection contains gold necklaces linking giant peanuts, intricate human faces and feline heads, and sit alongside gold earrings and belt buckles decorated with the Decapitator – a bug-eyed Moche deity holding a knife and severed head. But the highlight is a glorious gold sceptre, suspended and spotlit on a black background. ‘The older Lord of Sipán had more possessions on him,’ Guillermo explains. ‘So much so that he looked like a loaf of bread at first. It took six months to uncover the body. The tombs are one of the most spectacular finds in world archaeology, only comparable with Tutankhamun or Troy.’ Having also witnessed the treasures of Egypt’s boy pharaoh, I can tell you that’s not hyperbole. Yet compared to the Valley of the Kings, the Huaca Rajada (‘cracked pyramid’ ) where the bodies were actually excavated, is virtually deserted. Apart from the archaeologists toiling away on the latest of the site’s 16 tombs, my only company is a vulture wheeling overhead and a blood-red setting sun. When it comes to ambience, less is definitely more. It’s exactly the same story when I’m driven three hours down the Pan-American Highway, passing the grey Andean foothills and turn down a remote track towards the coast. The El Brujo’s complex of worn adobe pyramids, where witch
doctors are believed to have performed gory sacrifices, punctuate an other-worldly landscape where desert, Pacific Ocean and sky reach a hazy neutrality that fleetingly casts my mind back home to a Farrow & Ball catalogue. One of the pyramids has a section missing, like a freshly-cut cake – the legacy of treasurehunting Spanish conquistadors – but, as with the Lords of Sipán, they missed the ultimate treasure: Señora de Cao, a warrior princess and Peru’s very own Joan of Arc. The pyramid where the princess was unearthed in 2005 alongside magnificent friezes now sits under an enormous sloping roof of curved canvas, as if Zaha Hadid had designed a ski jump for sand surfers. Now housed in the on-site Cao museum, the mummified body of the Señora de Cao lies in a dimly lit, temperature-controlled tomb, an ethereal form reflected in a mirror for viewers. On the day I visit, the princess and her eye-popping trove of weaponry and gold and silver ornaments receive just two other visitors. I could have picked at least three other near-deserted sites to visit, including Cerro Chepen’s as-yet unexcavated, mountain-top fortress. Instead I opt for a bloodstained climax at Huaca de la Luna, a vertiginous temple
constructed from five million building blocks in the Moche Valley, near Trujillo. On its high altar, priests once sacrificed humans to halt the flooding caused by El Niño. The sacrificed skeletons were caked in thick layers of sediment, allowing one to picture the scene of priests cutting the throats of victims and casting them down into the mud at the foot of the temple. The archaeologists are still hard at work here, brushing away at the 2,500m of exquisite paintings that decorate Huaca de la Luna’s seven-tiered façade. ‘They are perhaps the greatest murals of any ancient non-Western civilisation,’ Guillermo claims. ‘They’re up there with the Sistine Chapel’s paintings.’ The Sistine Chapel? Perhaps. But without the crowds to spoil the magic. Incredulous that these wildly evocative sites can attract such little attention, I head down to the nearby Pacific beaches. It’s time to wash the desert dust from my hands, and the Moche blood from my mind. Abercrombie & Kent (abercrombiekent.co.uk; 0845 618 2121) offers a 10-night trip that includes the north with Guillermo Cock, Machu Picchu with archaeologist Alfredo Mormontoy, Cusco and Lake Titicaca, along with flights, transfers, B&B accommodation and guiding from £4,950pp
Alamy
Brightly-painted friezes, left, adorned the Moche temple site Huaca de la Luna, below, near Trujillo
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to be invited to a traditional Geisha tea ceremony was a real privilege. A cultural infusion indeed.
40 Brummell | sHooTing
Holland and Holland 020 7499 4411; hollandandholland.com The ‘royal’ side-by-side from £60,000 standard ‘royal’ over-and-under from £70,000
James Purdey & sons 020 7499 1801; purdey.com Bespoke side-by-side from £72,600 Bespoke over-and-under from £85,200
in the line of fire A side-by-side or an over-under: when choosing your shotgun for game shoots do you follow tradition or break the mould? Words Jane Pruden
There is little doubt that if you saw someone unsheathing an over-under shotgun on Downton Abbey, many viewers would scream ‘disgrace!’ or ‘parvenu’ at best. But these days, surely, our egalitarian shooting field focuses on prestige of a nobler variety – efficiency – and the o/u is arguably a better bet. Dead-eyed dick no doubt needs top tools but will you stand out in a field for your shooting or your gun? The debate kicked off with the advent of clay pigeon shooting at the turn of the 20th
century. Clay discs and glass balls were catapulted into the air for the guns of the late Victorian and Edwardian era to brush up on their shooting skills. Boss & Co patented a new gun, the over-and-under, in 1909, and it soon proved to have infinitely more advantages on its faux target than the traditional side-byside. In the meantime, shooting schools had opened and as the sport of clay-shooting developed over the decades, the o/u gun took supremacy in the sport over its rival. Looking
down one barrel instead of two, easier handling and high scores had benefits on real quarry, too. The West London Shooting School (020 8845 1377; shootingschool.co.uk), the oldest independent institution of its kind in the country, was established in 1901 by the Richmond-Watson family. Today, the director, Roddy Richmond-Watson, says, ‘The over-and-under is a good model for novices because of its single sighting plane – and it absorbs the recoil better than a side-by-side. Its
42 BRUMMELL | shooting
WiLLiAM & son 020 7493 8385; williamandson.com Bespoke over-and-under from £55,000
popularity grew with the prominence of competitive clay pigeon shooting in the Seventies and has continued to do so. Many clients starting with an o/u will continue with it on game shoots.’ The school’s gun shop sells both, with o/u’s tipping the balance for choice. Prices for a new Beretta or Browning start from an affordable £1,350, and the respected Beretta Silver Pigeon is £1,695 for the new Game Scene gun. British gunmakers are also producing some relatively cheaper models courtesy of state-ofthe-art technology. Longthorne Guns in Lancashire (01772 811215; longthorneguns.com) has built The Hesketh, an entirely Englishmade, 12-bore sidelock o/u, available as a game gun or sporter for under £13,000. For slightly less, at £12,000, William Evans (020 7493 0415; williamevans.com) sells the well-reviewed St James. It is made by Guerini gunmakers in Italy but based on a traditional side-by-side finish, with the engraving copied from a gun that William Evans made for Prince Arthur, Duke of Connaught, in 1910. The ‘St James’ comes in a 12-, 20- or 28-bore with 28in or 30in barrels, and also features multi-choke barrels – an added benefit. The fixed choke on a sideby-side is great for lowland birds but many new o/u’s with multi-chokes can aspire to much higher targets as well. By contrast, the exclusive gunmaker Boss & Co (020 7493 1127; bossguns.co.uk), established in 1812, still makes an o/u based on its original design. The company has always claimed to build the best guns – but the best comes at a price. King George VI was once asked if he had considered a Boss and he retorted, ‘A Boss gun, a Boss gun, bloody beautiful, but too bloody expensive!’ Yet still, argues Roy Lyu, Boss’s gunroom manager, ‘There has always been plenty of demand and not least for the Boss o/u. It is easier to use than the side-by-side and its popularity is growing.’ With only a handful produced a year, and a two-and-a-half-year waiting list, a Boss gun is indeed a prized possession and a good investment. A popular bespoke choice for high partridges and pheasants is the 29in barrelled model with a tighter choke, commanding a price tag of over £84,500. A side-by-side, handcrafted to the same high standards, will cost over £65,000. The difference in price reflects the time it takes to make the gun. The mechanics and configuration of an o/u requires about 1,200 hours as opposed to 850 to 900 hours for a side-by-side. There is no shortage of o/u clients at Holland and Holland either. In general, says
Patrick Murphy, the gunroom manager, ‘Most shooting schools start people off with overand-unders because they are an easier gun and more economical to buy and maintain.’ Interestingly, the bulk of the company’s o/u gun sales are to the US, where it is far more acceptable for game shooting than in the UK. ‘Sales in the last 10 years works out at about 1.5 to 1 in favour of the over-unders,’ adds Murphy, although the last couple of years has seen a slight increase in side-by-side purchases. ‘Many of our clients have inherited a pair of guns but first-time buyers purchasing an over-under is not uncommon. At the end of the day it’s individual choice.’ The base price for the Holland and Holland standard ‘Royal’ o/u with their traditional scroll engraving is £70,000 for 12-, 16- and 20-bore, and £75,000 for a 28 bore and cal .410. To the outsider, an o/u has as many, if not more, advantages as the side-by-side, so where’s the rub? Put simply, it appears there are some who honed their skills when they were knee-high to their father’s hip flask and only used a side-by-side; some who stick to their o/u from shooting school, and many who are indifferent, subject to price or preference. So are we likely to see as many o/u’s as side-by-sides in the field? Mike Barnes, editor of Fieldsports magazine, says, ‘Over-unders have become much more commonplace since the advent of shooting very high pheasants (notably in the West Country, Wales, the Borders and Yorkshire). Their single-sighting plane helps with the more measured shooting required at very long ranges. And, most importantly, their extra weight helps absorb the recoil which results from the "big load" cartridges required for shooting pheasants at extreme ranges.’ It is also possible, he adds, to buy a very good o/u for much less money than a side-by-side. Then again, it also depends on your target. ‘Side-byside is still the gun for driven grouse shooting,’ he says. ‘Its lesser weight and responsive feel is perfect for fast, low targets.’ The general consensus is that the o/u is undoubtedly easier to shoot in various situations. But, as Paul West from William & Son says, ‘For the price, they are reliable: they are easier to pick up a line with and they do what they say on the tin. But generally, an over-under isn’t a gun that you would oil in your gun room and covet like a British side-by-side shotgun, which has more character. It’s a gun for the enthusiast.’ Some traditions, it seems, are hard to break.
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Bespoke side-by-side from £45,000
57 – 58 South Audley Street
london W1K 2ed
+44 (0)20 7499 1801
www.purdey.com
00 BRUMMELL | sTyLE 44 FEATURE TITLE
LASTING IMPRESSION Be picture perfect this season, dressing for work in sumptuous fabrics, enhanced by luxe accessories Photography Rebecca Pierce styling Tamara Fulton
nEw MAsTERs Opposite: Blouse, £595; overskirt, £420; and knee-length skirt, £540, all Miu Miu. Shoes, £475, Rupert sanderson. 'Agatha' bag, £700, smythson. Ebony, pearl and yellow-gold earrings, £4,860, Belmacz
This page: Jacket, £395, Daks. Dress, £340, Paul smith Black Label. Tights, £8.25, Pamela Mann at mytights.com. Shoes, £175, Russell & Bromley. Bag, £700, smythson. Earrings, as before. Onyx and gold pendant, £2,600, Belmacz
private view Opposite: Dress, £345, Daks. Earrings, as before This page: Blouse, £550, Chloé at Harrods. Skirt, £999, Lanvin at Harrods. Earrings, as before. Necklace, £22,000, and bracelet, £18,675, both Chanel Fine Jewellery
00 BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE
MUsE ovER Above: Cape, £600, sportmax at selfridges. Top (just seen), model's own. Skirt (just seen), £540, Miu Miu. Scarf, £165, Paul smith. Gloves, £215, Jane Carr. Umbrella, £135, Burberry. Earrings, as before Right: Jacket, £885; chiffon top, £495; and skirt, £445, all Bottega veneta. Tights, £8.25, Pamela Mann at mytights.com. Earrings, as before. White agate, jet and yellow-gold necklace, £980, Belmacz
MAkE-UP Natsumi Watanabe at caren.co.uk using Chanel A/W11 make-up and Sublimage skincare HAIR Selena Middleton at Soho Management ModEL Rachel Alexander at Select FAsHIon AssIsTAnTs Hollye Manchester and Simone Linney PHoTogRAPHER's AssIsTAnT Paul Osman LoCATIon Photographed at Dulwich Picture Gallery, London SE21; dulwichpicturegallery.org.uk STOCKISTS DETAILS ON PAGE 50
Pocket Watch VINTAGE PW1 Wristwatch VINTAGE WW1
49 mm 45 mm - Alligator strap
Information: Bell & Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 . information@bellross.com . e-Boutique: www.bellross.com
50 BRUMMELL | BY GEORGE
Range of style Launching this month, the Range Rover Evoque’s sporty exterior belies its rugged force
It was back in 2008 that I first saw the original Land Rover LRX concept in an underground car park beneath one of Geneva’s swankier hotels. Designer Gerry McGovern had just penned it and it was like no Land Rover we had ever seen, with a coupé roof, pimp-tastic 20-inch wheels and a luxurious leather-clad cabin with front seats that ‘floated’ on individual plinths. Three years later and the concept has become a reality, only it is now called the Range Rover Evoque. Although the first cars are not due to hit showrooms until this month (it will be sold in 160 countries), 18,000 have already been ordered and there seems little doubt that the Evoque will be the crossover in which to be seen. Those floating seats may have gone, but surprisingly little else has changed between the unveiling of the original LRX mock-up and the arrival of the production Evoque, the most significant difference being the addition of a more practical, five-door body style to complement the meaner-looking coupé. There’s no doubting
that most Evoques will remain captive in the urban jungle, but that doesn’t mean the off-road ability has been compromised. Thanks to decent ground clearance, Range Rover’s clever Terrain Response system, hill-descent control and plenty of torque from the diesel engine options, the smallest Range Rover seems capable of following its full-sized stablemates just about anywhere. Subjected to a long and fairly challenging track in rugged Snowdonia, the Evoque I drove took everything in its stride and its relatively small size and user-friendliness made it more adept on some of the tricky bits than the properly rugged Defender – the difference is that you might think twice about chucking a pile of rocks into the back before heading off for a day’s dry stone walling. Realistically, however, not many Evoques will be used as forestry or farm vehicles – this car is more about style and bringing scaled-down Range Rover luxury to town than getting down and dirty in the countryside. In fact, it’s predicted that up to 50 per cent of buyers will be women. You can choose from 12 different exterior colours, three contrasting roof colours, eight alternative alloy wheel designs and 16 tailored ‘designer’ interiors. Combine these with the three overall themes: minimalist ‘Pure’, upmarket ‘Prestige’ and sporty ‘Dynamic’ – and it’s likely you'll be able to create a bespoke Evoque with a look that’s yours and yours alone. And if you can’t be bothered to do it yourself, you’ll be pleased to hear that Victoria Beckham is on board as Range Rover’s ‘creative design executive’ with the promise of a ‘Posh’ interior due shortly. Turning to more practical matters, the Evoque can be had with either 150- or 90-horsepower turbo diesel engines or a 240-horsepower, turbocharged petrol unit. You can also opt for sportier suspension and a ‘panoramic’ glass roof – a bargain at just £450, and really worth having, especially on the chop-top coupé which doesn’t let that much light in through its narrow rear passenger windows. Other handy extras are ‘Park Assist’ (it judges whether or not a gap is big enough and takes control of the steering – you just press the pedals), a ‘surround’ camera set-up, ambient interior lighting and a truly kicking Meridian audio system to complement the excellent touch-screen satnav and communications panel, which includes a digital and satellite TV and a DVD player. There seems little doubt that all the hype over this car has been justified – it really is good, and the coupé version is a breath of fresh air in a sector where design has begun to become rather too predictable. The Evoque costs from £27,995 to £44,320, depending on specification; helloevoque.com Words Simon de Burton
Stockists Belmacz 020 7629 7863; belmacz.com Bottega Veneta 020 7838 9394; bottegaveneta.com Burberry 020 7968 0582; burberry.com Chanel Fine Jewellery 020 7499 0005; chanel.com DAKS 0800 288188; daks.com Jane Carr 020 7387 4337; jane-carr.com Harrods 020 7730 1234; harrods.com Miu Miu 020 7409 0900;
miumiu.com Pamela Mann mytights.com Paul Smith 0800 023 4006; paulsmith.co.uk Rupert Sanderson 020 7584 9249; rupertsanderson.com Russell & Bromley 020 7629 6903; russellandbromley.co.uk Selfridges 0800 123400; selfridges.com Smythson 020 7318 1515; smythson.com