Horology spring 2016
Quality time Horology special featuring faces, cases and the dials that endure • The Olympics’ real game-changer Women’s timepieces that tick every box • The very punctual Eddie Redmayne • Watches for Deco devotees
neomatik from NOMOS Glashßtte: Watches with the automatic movement of the next generation. Incredibly slender, highly precise—and now available with selected retailers. Find out more at nomos-neomatik.com, nomos-store.com.
Welcome to Brummell This edition takes a tour around the world of horology, asking why bother with a wristwatch when time announces itself all around, from your phone to your computer to street furniture? The answers lie within these pages. We dock at specialist ports to appreciate the results of the hours of work put in by craftsmen when decorating the face of a timepiece; we trace the lasting significance of Art Deco design, and how it still features as a strong motif in luxury watches; and we salute the 40th anniversary of cult house Patek Philippe’s Nautilus collection of elegant sports watches and consider their enduring appeal. Elsewhere, we profile Chopard, as famous for its head-turning jewellery as it is for its distinctive timepieces, as the Swiss company also celebrates
20 years of its haute horology L.U.C collection; we explore Omega’s long-standing involvement in the Olympics as timekeeper; we look at the different shapes a watch can take; and we present a round-up of fine mechanical timepieces for women that illustrate beauty and brains. You can wear a watch to merely check out the hour, but they say so much more about the wearer: a recognition of heritage, of design, of history, of craftsmanship and of artistry. You can marvel at all those years of expertise, packed into a small gold case on your wrist; it can be about art, or technical innovation; it can be the best of times. We hope you enjoy this issue. Joanne Glasbey, Editor
CALIBER RM 011 YELLOW FLASH
Contents • Brummell
27
Cover illustration: Nathalie Lees Show Media Brummell editorial 020 3222 0101 — Editor Joanne Glasbey Senior Art Director Dominic Murray-Bell Managing Editor Lucy Teasdale Chief Copy Editor Eirwen Oxley Green Deputy Chief Copy Editor Gill Wing Art Director Jo Murray-Bell Picture Director Juliette Hedoin Picture Editor Amy Wiggin Editorial Assistant Jemima Wilson Copy Editors Kristin Braginetz, Nicky Gyopari, Mikey Fullalove, Tanya Jackson Designer Tom Robinson Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth — Advertising & Events Director Duncan McRae duncan@flyingcoloursmarketing.com 07816 218059 — showmedialondon.com brummell@showmedialondon.com — Visit Brummell’s website for more tailor-made content: brummellmagazine.co.uk @BrummellMag
Contents 11
14
16
18
BEAUMONDE News Timepieces for tough guys; a connected chronograph; bidding for time; and keeping up with the London marathon Expedition The most recent mission in Blancpain’s ambition to protect the world’s oceans saw scientist and diver Laurent Ballesta head for the Antarctic Accessibly priced Premium-grade watches can be more affordable than you think, with a choice of models for under £1,500 Patek Philippe Nick Foulkes considers the mystique surrounding the cult watch house
24
27
36
38
40
44
40
Colour proofing by Rhapsody, rhapsodymedia.co.uk. Printed by Pureprint Group, pureprint.com Brummell is published by Show Media Ltd. All material © Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. £5 (where sold). Reader offers are the responsibility of the organisation making the offer – Show Media accepts no liability regarding offers.
22
14`
46
FEATURES Dial design Nowhere is the craftsmanship of the watchmaker so immediately apparent as in the decoration of a timepiece’s face Style and watches Catherine Hayward finds the perfect pairing of the sartorial and timekeeper Women’s watches Exceptional mechanical pieces made specially for female fans Case shapes Ken Kessler documents the different outlines a watch can take and nominates standout examples of each Olympic timing Thanks to the company’s ability to deliver flawless timing, Omega and the Olympics have become synonymous, but the technology has had to evolve fast Art Deco Stephen Bayley looks at the enduring appeal of Art Deco and how watches encapsulated elements of design. Plus, six 21st-century models that reflect the motifs of the time Chopard As famous for its glittering jewels as it is for its timepieces, Swiss brand Chopard is celebrating 20 years of its L.U.C haute-horology watches Need to know Omega ambassador Eddie Redmayne discusses his first ever timepiece – and reveals a fetish for punctuality
07
Beaumonde Watches at auction, championing a marathon, sponsoring a film award, and the toughest new timepieces
Smarter still When it comes to smartwatches, the watch component can often seem like an add-on to a smartphone. However, with Breitling’s first connected chronograph, the Exospace B55, the watch remains the master. Using its smartphone connection to improve its performance, it features a number of functions tailor-made for pilots, including an electronic tachymeter, and various measurements, such as flight times, recorded times with split times and lap times, can be uploaded from chronograph to smartphone. The sturdy yet lightweight titanium case houses a calibre B55 movement with analogue and digital display, and watch adjustments such as time-setting, changing time zones, alarms, display and operating parameters can be made via your phone. £6,650; breitling.com
Classic good looks Fashion house Emporio Armani has created a range of Swiss Made timepieces, combining modern design with Swiss watchmaking tradition. Inspired by the elegance of the 1930s and 40s – decades much admired by Giorgio Armani – the Classic collection, launching in August, includes a watch with a tonneau-shaped case. The men’s model has an automatic movement with open balance wheel and a sunray dial. From £770; emporio armaniswissmade.armani.com
Capital venture ↑ Each Backes & Strauss watch design is inspired by London’s heritage. Its Regent Collection draws on the classical proportions of architecture designed by John Nash around Regent Street, while the limited-edition Regent Beau Brummell Collection takes its name from the eminent arbiter of fashion in Regency England. Each Beau Brummell watch features 347 ideal-cut diamonds hand-set in an elegant titanium case, available in a choice of red, British racing green, purple or blue. From £12,000; backesandstrauss.com
Hot favourite ↑ Bell & Ross is known for creating watches for elite military units and professionals. The new BR 03 Desert Type watch has been designed for airforces on field operations in hot countries. Its ceramic case is resistant to extremely high temperatures, acidic conditions, corrosion and erosion. The timepiece is available in three different versions – two 42mm models and the 39mm BR S model, which is ideal for smaller wrists. Each has its own Swiss movement. From £1,900 for the BR S; bellross.com
12
Beaumonde • News Racy talk ← When it comes to breaking records and beating personal bests, milliseconds count. Tag Heuer’s long association with motor racing has made the Swiss watchmaker synonymous with unparalleled levels of precision, and now the brand is championing racing spirit of a different kind. Having previously sponsored the Paris, New York and Moscow marathons, it is set to be the official timekeeper and official watch of the 2016 Virgin Money London Marathon. This year’s race is taking place on 24 April, and runners of all abilities will be pushing themselves to the limit of physical endurance to raise money for a host of charitable causes. Tag Heuer has been pushing boundaries in watchmaking and competitive sports for more than 150 years, so it’s a reliable racing companion, as its motto ‘Don’t Crack Under Pressure’ attests. tagheuer.co.uk
Getting hammered Fellows auctioneers first held an online timepiece auction in 2010, and its sales of wristwatches and pocket models are now held each month. Highlights of the next sale – on 30 March – include a platinum annual calendar by F P Journe and a Universal Genève Medico-Compax watch. Also up for grabs is the first timepiece from Swiss brand Breva, which contains an aneroid barometer so the wearer can predict the weather. The full catalogue can be viewed online. fellows.co.uk
Two timing ↑ German watchmaker Glashütte Original partnered with the Berlin International Film Festival for the sixth time last month. The brand used the event to tell the story of its new Senator Cosmopolite, a timepiece designed to display two time zones at once so that frequent travellers can keep track of time anywhere in the world. The brand also presented the prestigious ‘Made in Germany – Perspektive Fellowship’ award to emerging German director Janna Ji Wonders, who will use the €15,000 prize for the development of her next screenplay. Every year, the winner’s trophy is handcrafted by students at the Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking, run by Glashütte Original, demonstrating that art and craft go hand in hand in the making of films and fine watches. glashuette-original.com
14
Beaumonde • Expedition
Diving deeper Blancpain’s latest expedition explored beneath the sea ice of Antarctica in a pioneering investigation of global warming
Words: Jemima Wilson
Marine biologist, photographer and research diver Laurent Ballesta is no stranger to intrepid underwater adventure. When exploring the ocean at depths of more than 100m, timing is crucial for his survival. And for many rare aquatic creatures in oceans threatened by global warming, time is equally critical: as temperatures and sea levels rise, for some species, time is running out. With this in mind, Ballesta recently teamed up with Blancpain for a third diving and photography expedition, Gombessa III, which aimed to measure and raise awareness of the impact of climate change on deep-sea ecosystems in Antarctica. The mission formed the underwater element of the Wild-Touch Expeditions – Antarctica! project and was led by film director Luc Jacquet and documented by Blancpain’s immersive video blog. Blancpain has developed a close affinity with the ocean over the past six decades. Founded in 1735, the brand has a connection with diving that dates back to 1953, when the first Fifty Fathoms diving watch was created to meet the exacting needs of the French navy’s elite combat swimmers unit. At the time, the requirement was a watch capable of withstanding pressure at depths of about 50 fathoms (around 91.45m). Today, following great technical advancement in both watchmaking and diving equipment, the latest versions of the Fifty Fathoms model are often worn by professional divers such as Ballesta for descents to depths of hundreds of metres. Blancpain has long been committed to protecting marine life through ocean exploration, as previous Gombessa expeditions have proved.
The Gombessa I expedition, in 2013, saw Ballesta and Blancpain travel to South Africa to reveal the secrets of the rare and primitive coelacanth, one of the greatest zoological discoveries of the century. Known locally as Gombessa, it inspired the expedition’s name. Then, in 2014, the Gombessa II mission studied the spectacular spawn of the camouflage grouper fish of the Fakarava atoll, in the Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia. Dedicated to discovering more about the plethora of little-known deep-sea creatures that dwell in the murky depths of the Antarctic sea, Gombessa III was headquartered at the French Dumont d’Urville scientific base from October to December 2015. It marked the first time a team of technical divers had ventured below the ice in the Adélie Land region of Antarctica. Each of the pioneering dives captured the first environmentalist images of Antarctica’s deep-sea ecosystems. At the request of high-profile research groups, including the National Museum of Natural History in Paris and the National Centre for Scientific Research in Marseilles, the Gombessa III team is contributing to an inventory of deep-sea fauna, sharing previously unseen footage with scientific publications. Several documentaries will follow the expedition, and an IMAX film produced by Jacquet is also planned. His March of the Penguins, shot in the Antarctic, won an Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature in 2006, and this project is set to be another touching testament to a territory endangered by climate change. ● blancpain-ocean-commitment.com
Blancpain; Laurent Ballesta
One of Laurent Ballesta’s incredible images of Antarctic sea life, photographed on Blancpain’s Gombessa III expedition
AN ICON JUST GOT LARGER
THE NAVITIMER 46 mm
16
Beaumonde • Accessibly priced
Face value Durability, craftsmanship and style don’t always require a big investment, as these watch brands show – handsomely
Words: Eleanor Pryor
There’s no denying the allure of exceptional, technical high-end watches; the artistry, skill and innovation involved justify the price tag. But for those who still want great design and workmanship, eminent wearability and a lifetime’s guarantee, there’s actually no need to part with large sums. A three-figure budget might not seem to stretch that far where mechanical watches are concerned, especially if you’re not prepared to dip your toes in the precarious waters of the vintage market. However, a handful of brands – and even manufactures (yes, an in-house movement within a pinch of a grand) – offer reliable, tried-and-tested designs that have won the hearts and respect of even the most hardened horology connoisseurs. One of the biggest success stories on the market is Nomos Glashütte, Germany’s largest independent watchmaker. The brand has become a cult favourite for its modern minimalist designs, and perhaps even more so for its accomplished movements, developed and made in-house in Glashütte. While some models can cost thousands, its bread and butter, and still one of its most popular watches, remains the Tangente. A snip
starting from £1,120, it charms with its Bauhaus-inspired good looks, while the Club, which is powered by the same Nomos calibre-α, manual-winding movement, represents even better value at just £1,000. Geneva-based Raymond Weil is another watchmaker trying to break the mould, offering a range of affordable classic and complicated timepieces that meet the criteria to bear the coveted ‘Swiss made’ on the dial. Its Maestro collection, launched in 2010 and continually updated, is emblematic of the brand’s pared-back approach and offers a range of features across the automatic watches, from a discreet date function to a moon phase. For those companies that belong to horology behemoth Swatch Group, easy access to calibres produced by ETA, Switzerland’s largest movement maker and now a wholly owned subsidiary of the conglomerate, makes them a go-to for reliable, quality and yet economical mechanical watches. Longines should be your first stop for an elegant and versatile dress watch starting from around the £1,000 mark, while if you’re opting for something
more macho, you’ll find plenty of choice in that price range and below at Hamilton – look out for the Khaki Navy Frogman collection launching this year, influenced by WWII military designs. Meanwhile, models from Certina and Tissot starting in the hundreds are a dependable option for everyday wear. And you don’t have to cross the channel to find brands with technical chops that create accessibly priced mechanical watches. Since its beginnings in 2005, British watchmaker Christopher Ward has, in its own words, made it its mission to ‘put premium-grade watches within the reach of everyone’. It continues to combine reliable Swiss movements with considered designs – one of its latest releases, the Mid Century-influenced C5 Malvern Slimline Square, being a perfect example, retailing from £399. However, a couple of years ago, it also launched the SH21, its first in-house movement, which has been rolled out across several different designs costing from £1,295, truly marking the brand out as one to watch. Perhaps the major strength of this end of the market is the sheer variety of aesthetics across
A handful of brands offer designs that have won the hearts of the most hardened horology connoisseurs
Opposite, from left SHINOLA The Canfield; NOMOS GLASHÜTTE Tangente; RAYMOND WEIL Maestro; HAMILTON Khaki Navy Frogman; VICTORINOX INOX Paracord; MONDAINE Evo; CHRISTOPHER WARD C5 Malvern Slimline Square
both quartz and mechanical watches – something that provides a real counterpoint to the higher-end manufactures. Design-led timepieces such as those by Mondaine, the most iconic of which is based on the iconic Swiss railway clock, are a mainstay on the wrists of designers, architects and creatives around the world. Meanwhile, the recent popularity of Shinola’s rugged timepieces showcases a new approach that contextualises watches in how they might influence a man’s or woman’s entire look or lifestyle, with the Detroit brand also offering a complementary range of wallets, bags and even pet accessories. This creativity even extends to the materials used. Victorinox, for example, pushes the boundaries with the INOX Paracord, which has a bracelet hand-woven from parachute cord. This can be used as a versatile survival tool – be it an improvised fishing line or a guy rope for a tent. Whether you require a watch that can withstand the great outdoors or simply your morning commute, there are more options out there than ever before that fit the bill while being comfortable on the wallet. ●
18
Beaumonde • Patek Philippe
Steels the show
From top Nautilus 7118/1A-001 ladies’ watch; Nautilus 5726A-001 men’s watch; Nautilus 5980/1R-001 men’s watch; Nautilus 5712/1A men’s watch
For the Patek Philippe collector, there’s only one topic of debate at the moment – the 40th birthday of the venerated Nautilus
Words: Nick Foulkes
Patek Philippe is more than a watch brand. It is more than a cult watch brand. In fact, let’s just call it a cult and have done with it. And how does it maintain that mystique? It keeps itself to itself, it doesn’t get involved in celebrity endorsements, it hasn’t changed its advertising in years and it basically does what it is that a watch company should do and gets on with making watches. As a result, a species of Kremlinology has sprung up around Patek Philippe, as collectors pass their time analysing past production trends and then do their best to predict what it is that the brand of the Calatrava cross will do next. Often, this comes down to minute details: a new dial design maybe, or a case in a differentcoloured metal perhaps. But if there is one thing that really excites the Patek specialist, it is the prospect of an anniversary. So this year, Patek spotters are in paroxysms of pleasure as a major birthday for the Nautilus looms: if life begins at 40 and this watch’s colourful past is anything to go by, then we have seen nothing yet. Here, I have to declare a slight interest: I am just finishing off the official history – the authorised biography – of Patek Philippe, and in that story the Nautilus plays an extremely important part, as its launch in 1976 marks a tectonic shift in watchmaking and also the accession of Philippe Stern to the top job at the family-owned firm. In the years BN (before Nautilus), horological luxury was a simpler matter. Philippe Stern once put it to me thus: ‘Luxury was automatic and gold; during the daytime you wore an automatic Patek Philippe.’ However, in 1976 the Patek Philippe customer had a choice between a classic gold automatic watch and a steel timepiece of a shape so unusual that there was no existing category into which it fell (if anything, it looked like a submarine hatch or porthole). The daring look of the watch, with its tapering flexible bracelet composed of shaped interlocking
blocks, its integrated design, flat octagonal bezel and its ‘ears’ (the anthropomorphic factory name for the hinge-like system used to lock the case together), was developed with Gérald Genta, the celebrated designer who had worked on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak a few years earlier. The nautical design cues were appropriate because the watch was water-resistant to 125m. It was an extraordinary creation for Patek Philippe, on so many levels: the use of steel (advertising tagline: ‘One of the world’s costliest watches is made of steel’), the remarkable water-resistance, the conception of case and bracelet as an integrated whole rather than as two separate entities, and the startling styling. That look remained unchanged until its 30th anniversary in 2006, when a slightly larger, thicker case was launched, with gently curved rather than straight-edged ears and baton hour markers that were subtly shaped to mirror the lines of the bezel. These changes may not sound like much, but to the forensic eye of the Patek watcher they were huge alterations, and after a decade they have bedded in enough for the enthusiast to be looking forward to this anniversary year for new excitement. It is unlikely that there will be a change as radical as that for the 30th anniversary, but, that said, last year saw the debut of an interesting version of the Nautilus, executed in pink gold, bracelet and case, with a charcoal-brown dial. In effect, it was the perfect prelude to the anniversary year because it opened up new avenues of speculation. Will there be an explosion of coloured dials? Will we see a push on precious metals (yellow gold deserves a revival, and the platinum Nautilus is already a keenly sought trophy watch)? But don’t think for a moment that the unveiling of the 40th-anniversary Nautilus (or Nautili) later this year will bring an end to the speculation – far from it. It will only prompt Patek watchers to start work on their predictions for 2017. The work of a Kremlinologist is never done. ● patek.com
Winston, made in England using the ямБnest quality full grain European calf MADE IN ENGLAND
LONDON
JERMYN STREET BURLINGTON ARCADE KNIGHTSBRIDGE ROYAL EXCHANGE CANARY WHARF
BIRMINGHAM
BURLINGTON ARCADE, NEW ST
NEW YORK 7 WEST 56TH STREET
CROCKETTANDJONES.COM
BRUSSELS RUE DE NAMUR
PARIS
CHAUVEAU LAGARDE BOULEVARD RASPAIL
New wave of luxury Putting the high in high seas, award-winning tour operator Elegant Resorts launches two once-in-a-lifetime oceanic adventures
Words: Jemima Wilson
Magnificent and mystifying, the oceans are one of the world’s most spectacular unexplored wildernesses. With less known about their depths than the surface of the moon, there is only a handful of people who have access to their secrets. Someone who knows more than most is Mark Healey, right. A legendary and intrepid big-wave surfer, freediver, spearfisherman, photographer, film-maker and stuntman, he is one of the world’s top professional watermen. He was introduced to the ocean at the age of three, when his father led him out into 8ft-high waves for the first time. Since then, his affinity with the sea has seen him achieve a host of accomplishments, including victories at the World Surf League’s Todos Santos tournament and the Spearfishing World Cup. In 2015, passionate about sharing his knowledge
of the most capricious and captivating aquatic locations across the globe, Healey co-founded Healey Water Ops (HWO) to offer unique access to the world’s most eminent watermen. Now, in collaboration with the UK’s leading luxury tour operator, Elegant Resorts, he is inviting guests to join him and his crew in Hawaii on one of two once-in-a-lifetime oceanic experiences. Elegant Resorts is renowned for creating the ultimate bespoke itineraries, tailored to clients with a variety of interests and of every age and ability, and its Hawaii trips will offer an exclusive taste of HWO’s extraordinary know-how. Hawaii is a must-visit destination for anyone with a love of the ocean, and the Ultimate Surf Safari Tour is the ideal introduction to the sport. Working with Elegant Resorts, the HWO team
Brummell promotion
21
Mike Coots; Fred Pompermayer; DJ Struntz
Clockwise from above Mark Healey free-diving in Indonesia; the newly refurbished Four Seasons Resort Lanai; Mark at home in his native Hawaii; and riding Tahiti’s big waves
will customise each itinerary to suit individual goals, whether that is to ride giant waves or gentle rollers. Those who have never lain on a surfboard, let alone stood on one, will be eased in gently each morning with yoga, and will benefit from Healey’s expertise in reading oceanic conditions to be safe at sea. As well as arranging trips in search of new places to surf, HWO offers the opportunity to learn kiteboarding, windsurfing, paddle-surfing and outrigger canoe-surfing. Those who want to get as close as possible to Hawaii’s marine life should opt for the Ultimate Dive Tour, which explores the vibrant, teeming reefs off the coasts of Maui, Lanai and Molokini. Each day starts with fresh juices and an invigorating yoga session, after which beginners receive entry-level instruction in the thrilling activity of freediving – that is, without breathing apparatus – from HWO’s world-class team: pioneering surfer Dave Kalama, spearfishing champion Kimi Werner and champion freediver Shelby Eisenberg. Once guests have mastered the necessary skills, a breathtaking encounter with dolphins, whales and sharks awaits. HWO can even provide stellar aquatic photographercinematographers such as DJ Struntz to capture all the underwater action, as well as expert speakers to extend the experience into the evening. Out of the water, guests on either tour can explore Maui’s rugged Hana coast by helicopter, and see sunrise at 3,000m over the Haleakal Crater. To end your break in style, the final five
Elegant Resorts creates the ultimate bespoke itineraries for every age and ability, each devised to create memories that will never be forgotten
days of the two-week stay may be spent at the recently refurbished Four Seasons Resort Lanai at Manele Bay. This 90-acre, secluded island offers the perfect base to discover the area’s rich culture and diverse landscape. Alternatively, stay at the Four Seasons Resort Maui at Wailea, which encourages ultimate relaxation next to crystalclear waters and pristine beaches. Thanks to Mark Healey’s unparalleled local knowledge and insider access, guests will also be immersed in Hawaii’s fascinating culture. He is fervent about broadening our relationship with the sea, and his ocean-going experiences are devised to create memories that will never be forgotten. ● For The Ultimate Surf Safari, visit stories.elegantresorts.co.uk or call 01244 897640
22
Brummell • Dial design
On the face of it Watchmakers have techniques for decorating the dial that can elevate a timepiece from the functional to fine art
What makes a watch worth £1,000, £10,000 or even £100,000? Precious materials and jewels aside, the true value of a timepiece comes through in the artisanship and hours of craft put into it – and it’s not just the inside of the watch that counts. The traditions of dial decoration go back as far as watchmaking itself, and can elevate a timepiece from an everyday practical object to a work of art worthy of inclusion in the finest galleries. There are a number of intricate techniques that are still employed by watchmakers to adorn their dials.
From top Intricate champlevé dial (Van Cleef & Arpels); grand feu-enamelled dial (Jaquet Droz); guilloché dial (Breguet); cloissoné dial (Vacheron Constantin)
Grand feu Translating from French as ‘great fire’, this term refers to an enamelling process in which the dials are fired at extremely high kiln temperatures (often in excess of 800°C). Different colours and layers of enamel are applied to the surface, and repeated firings reveal a beautiful depth of colour that becomes permanently set on the surface. The tricky and time-consuming procedure can take weeks, and requires a highly skilled enameller. It’s no surprise that grand feu-enamelled dials command a higher price and are favoured by haute horology companies such as Jaquet Droz, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe and Piaget.
Champlevé This technique is favoured by brands that are renowned for their colourful, creative and eye-catching dials, such as Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Piaget. A metal plate is carved using a chisel, leaving pockets that form the design, which are then filled with enamel. The metal undergoes firing until the enamel melts and, once cooled, the surface of the dial is polished to create the final finish. The separate cells can be filled with a variety of colours of enamel created from different metallic oxides, enabling the artisan to create beautiful imagery and decorative works of art on the dial.
Guilloché This word refers to the method by which a geometric pattern is engraved onto a dial. Traditionally, guilloché is achieved using a hand-cranked machine that chisels minuscule lines – sometimes less than the width of a strand of hair – out of a plate made of gold or silver, or sometimes even mother-ofpearl. Guillochage, that is, the practice of guilloché, is synonymous with older manufacturers such as Breguet. Across watchmaking, a number of different patterns are commonly used, such as clous de Paris (literally ‘nails of Paris’), barleycorn and sunburst. Occasionally, layers of translucent enamel, called flinqué, are applied over the guilloché.
Cloissoné Rather than carving the decoration out of the plate, as with champlevé, cloissoné allows a similarly detailed effect to be achieved by building up the design on top of the metal plate. Extremely fine strips of gold wire are applied by hand to create an outline for the design, into which different colours of enamel are inserted. The dial then undergoes multiple firings and layerings of enamel before the end result is created. This technique adds a sense of depth to the dial, lending it a three-dimensional effect. Nowadays, cloissoné dials tend to be limited to small production runs owing to the level of skill and time involved.
Johann Sauty © Van Cleef & Arpels 2014
Words: Eleanor Pryor
Auctioneers & Valuers Antiques | Jewellery | Watches
Featuring in the March auction
The Watch Sale Wednesday 30th March Tuesday 26th April Tuesday 24th May View auction catalogues online & sign up to bid www.fellows.co.uk NOW RECEIVING CONSIGNMENTS FOR THE NEXT AUCTION. VISIT FELLOWS.CO.UK/VALUATIONS Mayfair Office | 2nd Floor, 3 Queen Street, London, W1J 5PA | 0207 127 4198 Jewellery Quarter Saleroom | 19 Augusta Street, Birmingham, B18 6JA | 0121 212 2131
fellowsauctions
FOR STOCKIST DETAILS, SEE PAGE 46
02
01
04 03
05
06
Style and Watches • Brummell
25
Meet your match
Brunello Cucinelli; Ralph Lauren Purple Label; Tullio M Puglia/Getty Images; Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages.com
Catherine Hayward, Esquire’s fashion director, pairs six classic watches with six key menswear looks from this season’s catwalks. The result? Well, if the face fits…
01. Dunhill + Cartier Alfred Dunhill has long been associated with motoring, first manufacturing its famous ‘Motorities’ – accessories for cars – over 100 years ago. Today, Dunhill has grown into a luxury lifestyle company, leading the way in elegant-yet-sporty pieces for the modern man. But it’s not all formality in the Dunhill design studio. The house’s quirks veer towards the eccentric: an oversized bloom tucked into a buttonhole; a clash of stripes with checks. The new Cartier Drive, as its name suggests, is also inspired by the motoring world, and has some idiosyncratic features. The guilloche details on the dial are designed to echo grand old car radiator grills, while the crown is modelled on the bolts used in automotive manufacturing. Meanwhile, the cushion-shaped face is understated and thin enough, at 40mm, to remain as elegant as a Dunhill blazer. Just like Dunhill, Cartier celebrates the new while keeping an authoritative eye on the past.
02. Ami + Tudor Ami is an anomaly among high-octane fashion brands, producing unassuming, non-shouty clothes that, nevertheless, have put Alexandre Mattiussi’s five-year-old label firmly into fashion’s spotlight. ‘Cool clothes for real men’ is how he describes his work and customer, and in an industry based on the shock of the new, Mattiussi has built a sturdy business on familiar, easy classics. Quite like Tudor, Rolex’s little brother, which recently relaunched in the UK market with some new-kidon-the-block credentials, Mattiussi prides his designs on affordability while retaining an almostunderground desirability. Here, he mismatches pinstripes with chalk stripes – a very modern take on classic tailoring – then subverts the entire ensemble by substituting the expected shirt-andtie combo with a bright tracksuit top. The 1980s casual aspect works well with the unpretentious tone-on-tone styling of Tudor’s Black Bay Black.
03. Bottega Veneta + Bremont When creative director Tomas Maier joined Bottega Veneta in 2001, the label had been in danger of losing its luxurious touch. Maier changed course. Out went the ostentatious, and in came the low-key, unadorned pieces for which the company is now celebrated. The quiet enjoyment of the luxury lifestyle is also championed by Henley-on-Thames-based entrepreneurs Nick and Giles English, the founding brothers of British watchmaker Bremont. They have made a name for themselves in the rarefied world of horology by producing rugged yet chic timepieces inspired by the world of aviation. This Bottega Veneta blouson – all buttery-soft handle and slouchy fit – blends neatly into the domain of well-to-do aviation enthusiasts who fly vintage planes as a hobby. Like Bremont’s latest model – the ALT1-ZT – with its clean dial and 24-hour function, it’s perfect for long-haul travel, too. By private jet, of course.
04. Ralph Lauren + Patek Philippe Put simply, Ralph Lauren created the visual template for the American Dream through developing one of the USA’s most valuable corporations. His early obsession with the silver screen of the 1930s and 40s continues to translate into his designs for 2016 – old-school glamour straight out of the Hollywood studios of the mid-20th century. Rather like this classic dress watch from Patek Philippe, a rose-gold version of the Calatrava, first introduced in 1932. This timeless Lauren evening look bears all the hallmarks of a formal design that will never go out of style: wide peaked lapels that create the unmistakable triangular silhouette; high-waisted trousers; wide turn-ups; jaunty accessories. But it’s the chocolate-brown tuxedo that really captures the imagination – something that Patek Philippe knows how to do only too well. The allure of the traditional tweaked to modernist perfection.
05. Paul Smith + Glashütte Sitting front row at the Paul Smith show this season was actor Gary Oldman, a friend of Smith’s, resplendent in white trousers, stripy socks and soft-pink shoes. The two worked together on Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy back in 2011, when the designer collaborated in the early development of the film, sharing his insights into the mood of 1970s London with the director. There was a distinct nod to that decade at Smith’s spring/ summer show – quirky and colourful, a flared trouser here, a skinny jacket there. Tailoring is, of course, his forte. And ‘classic with a twist’ is the company’s ethos. So pairing this threebutton, windowpane-checked suit with the Glashütte Original Senator Observer seems like a good choice: both a little bit retro, both about precision and discovery. And each the product of respected designers who dare to be unorthodox in the business and commerce world.
06. Brunello Cucinelli + Richard Mille Today, when the dress code says ‘nautical’, what does that mean? Thankfully, no garish waterproofs required. Because now there is Brunello Cucinelli. Known for luxurious fabrics and low-key styling, the Cucinelli look is all about layers – even in summer. And even on a boat. So a classic navy sweatshirt thrown over a simple white tee looks modern with short sleeves; knee-length shorts in soft jersey are elegant in matching navy; a sleeveless gilet in neutral tones adds warmth and texture. And the suede slip-ons? Not waterproof but non-slip, so they classify as practical in these waters. Meanwhile, the modern designs of Richard Mille’s RM 60-01 Regatta Flyback Chronograph showcases its technical prowess – bold neon highlights with a skeletonised dial, an integrated compass, a second time-zone function and a race-start countdown timer. Casual, luxurious and highly functional, just like Cucinelli’s designs.
Women’s movement
Women’s watches • Brummell
27
From diamond indices and gold bracelets to dials embellished with mother of pearl, these mechanical watches are strictly ladies only. And all the better for it…
Photography: Beate Sonnenberg
Limelight Gala Milanese bracelet watch in pink gold with diamonds, £27,700, PIAGET
Opposite, from left Marine chronograph in rose gold, £25,100, BREGUET. CT60 34mm in rose gold with diamonds, £12,600, TIFFANY & CO. This page Bohème Moongarden steel with diamonds, £3,115, MONTBLANC
Opposite, from left Clé de Cartier in pink gold with diamonds, £9,950, CARTIER. Faubourg gem-set in yellow gold, £9,950, HERMES. This page Lady-Datejust 28 in everose gold with diamonds, £25,400, ROLEX
This page Perpetual calendar in rose gold with diamonds, ÂŁ61,150, PATEK PHILIPPE. Opposite Hortensia in yellow gold with mother-of-pearl and diamond-engraved dial, ÂŁ18,230, CHAUMET
34
Brummell • Women’s watches
L.U.C XP Diamond-set Esprit de Fleurier Peony in rose gold, £POA, CHOPARD FOR STOCKIST DETAILS, SEE PAGE 46
©2015 movado group, inc.
MUSEUM® CLASSIC THE SINGLE DOT WATCH DIAL. AN ICON OF MODERN DESIGN. MOVADO.CO.UK AVAILABLE AT ERNEST JONES
FOUNDED IN SWITZERLAND IN 1881, MOVADO IS RENOWNED FOR ITS MUSEUM DIAL. DEFINED BY A SINGLE DOT AT 12, SYMBOLIZING THE SUN AT HIGH NOON, THE 1947 DESIGN BY ARTIST NATHAN GEORGE HORWITT WAS ACCEPTED BY THE MUSEUM OF MODERN ART, NY, IN 1960. REGARDED TODAY AS AN ICON OF MODERN DESIGN, THE SINGLE DOT DIAL IS A SIGNATURE OF THE MOVADO BRAND.
Stay in shape A watch’s outline is just as important as the face, as these case studies demonstrate
Words: Ken Kessler
Case shapes • Brummell
37
01. Rectangular Cartier Tank Some enthusiasts will argue – with ease – that Cartier’s Tank is the most important wristwatch ever. Although Santos Dumont’s Louis Cartierdesigned timepiece pre-dates it by a decade-plus (the Santos came out in 1904 and the Tank in 1917), it is the Tank that has enjoyed unassailable, perennial status. Why? Because it is nigh on perfect. Though it is only slightly rectangular, the ‘pure’ Louis Cartier Tank is the sort of watch that transcends social status and fashion, never less than elegant with a dinner jacket or little black dress. Wryly, then, like that other great rectangle – the octogenarian Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – it also appears to defy time. cartier.co.uk
02. Tonneau Richard Mille RM67-01 Defined by its bulging sides, a tonneau case takes its name from the French word for barrel. It is a marriage between a rectangular case and a cushion, and has been around since the 1910s. Early watches from Patek Philippe, Tissot, Cartier and Vacheron Constantin were inspired by the shape, but one brand has yanked the tonneau into the 21st century. Richard Mille made its timepieces instantly recognisable, thanks to the modern take on the shape, including the Automatic Extra Flat, shown opposite. As all are constructed of multiple sections and integral movements, the structural integrity is good enough to survive being on Rafael Nadal’s wrist during tennis matches. richardmille.com
03. Round Patek Philippe Calatrava For reasons both aesthetic and practical, round cases account for the majority of watches. Hands trace a circle, so dials look best and are easier to read when round. Because round case-backs can be screwed in, circular watches are easier to make water-resistant than all other shapes. Introduced in 1932, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava is not only the stellar exemplar of the round timepiece, it is also the standard for dress watches and has required little to keep it current. Assorted dials, new movements, the odd complication, ‘hobnail’ bezels – the only major difference between the original and the current is the diameter. The very definition of ‘classic’. patek.com
04. Square Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Square watches date back to the origins of the modern wristwatch in the first quarter of the 20th century. But the square timepiece is deceptive. Its appeal is based on a shape as geometrically perfect as the circle, but it was not a natural housing for a movement: most early examples used small pocket-watch calibres, nearly all of which were circular. Be that as it may, square has its charms, though it best suits dress watches. For perfect execution of the shape, look to Girard-Perregaux’s revived model from 1945. This is a glorious square example, enhanced by a case that’s curved, to better fit the wrist. girard-perregaux.com
05. Cushion Panerai Radiomir With us for more than a century, the cushion is the mid-point between a round case and a square, and was the solution for putting a round movement in a non-circular housing. Dressy cushion-shaped watches have backs with small screws, but they can also have a round case-back section, so it can be threaded and fitted like the back of a circular case. Panerai is a perfect example of turning a well-used form into its own signature, rather like The Byrds doing a better job with ‘Mr Tambourine Man’ than Dylan. The Radiomir (in common with its younger sibling, the Luminor) features a round movement, dial and glass, but its soft ‘corners’ create a look many find irresistible. panerai.com
06. Oval Breguet Reine de Naples Oval or egg-shaped watches are not plentiful, but all the great houses have issued them. And, while one might be tempted to think they only suit women’s timepieces, large oval watches from the 1920s suit men’s wrists, too. Suffice it to say, oval watches, such as Piaget’s Limelight Magic Hour, stand out in a field where round examples outsell all others. A brand with a history most would kill for, Breguet can tap into its archives for inspiration. The oval Reine de Naples collection is inspired by a bracelet watch created for Napoleon Bonaparte’s sister Caroline, Queen of Naples. It now serves as the form for a contemporary collection – with a pedigree to make Crufts judges quake. breguet.com
A case of curiosities
Hamilton Ventura
Cartier Crash
Ralph Lauren Stirrup
Glashütte Original Seventies
Appearing in 1957 to showcase the
Allegedly inspired by a client’s Tank
Ralph Lauren is a ‘horsey’ brand and
Panorama TV screen
first successful electric wristwatch
that barely survived a car crash, this
this shape is nothing new: Cartier
Alas, 1970s fashions are back.
movement, the triangular, Richard
Dalí-esque masterpiece has been
used it long before Ralph, in 1923.
Glashütte Original looked to its roots
Arbib-designed Hamilton Ventura is
revived by Cartier in response to
But Ralph has a different link: he
in East Germany for a period piece
one of the most distinctive watch
customer demand: originals are rarely
owns the world’s most valuable Bugatti,
it has relaunched with a quality its
shapes ever. It was rendered immortal
offered at auction. Devised by Cartier
the Type 57 Atlantic, which inspired
bosses behind the Wall would never
when Elvis Presley insisted on wearing
London in the 1960s, the new version
his Automotive line, and Mido made
have fathomed. Call it sweet Western
his in the 1961 film Blue Hawaii.
is skeletonised, so you can see its
a watch for Bugatti with the stirrup,
revenge of sorts: the Seventies
Hamilton still offers it in various forms.
movement. Cool beyond measure.
or horseshoe, shape in the 1920s.
Panorama is seriously desirable.
hamiltonwatch.com
cartier.co.uk
ralphlauren.co.uk
glashuette-original.com
Ready, set…
Rio In the run-up to the 2016 Games, we chart the legacy of Omega’s Olympic timekeeping
Words: Rob Ryan
Popperfoto/Getty Images
Olympic timing • Brummell
When, on Saturday 31 July 1948, the six finalists in the men’s 100 metres took their positions in Wembley Stadium’s new-fangled starting blocks, a hush fell over the 83,000-strong crowd. This was the 14th Olympiad and, then as now, the 100 metres was the premier track-and-field race. The line-up was, from the outside, Harrison ‘Bones’ Dillard (USA), Emmanuel McDonald Bailey (GB), Alastair McCorquodale (GB), Lloyd La Beach (Panama), favourite Barney Ewell (USA) and Melvin Emery ‘Mel’ Patton (USA). This was a formidable field, so closely matched it was impossible to predict the medal order. Which made Omega’s timekeeping crucial. The starter raised his gun. In just over 10 seconds’ time, the results would be revealed in a most dramatic fashion. Rio 2016 will be Omega’s 27th Olympic Games (winter and summer meetings included). It was first responsible for the timing of events at the 1932 Olympiad in Los Angeles, where it supplied 30 high-precision chronographs and a handful of timekeepers. Omega’s team for Rio will involve more than 250 professionals, a mix of timekeepers, technicians and data handlers (plus hundreds of trained volunteers), along with around 400 tons of equipment and close to 200km of cabling. All of which is necessary: the Olympic ideal to go faster, further, stronger and higher than ever before means that the technology to time and register events has had to become lighter, quicker and more accurate. That 1948 100 metres introduced one of the mainstays of almost every major sporting event since: the photo finish. At the end of the track was the Magic Eye, produced by the Race Finishing Recording Company. This was a camera linked to photoelectric cell timing by Omega. The cell projected a beam of light across the track parallel to the finishing tape; breaking the beam stopped the chronometer instantaneously, while the camera (triggered, like the clocks, by an electronic pulse from the starter’s gun) delivered snapshots of the runners crossing the line. As they chested through the tape, Barney Ewell began to celebrate. He thought he had the gold in the bag. Dillard thought otherwise, and he was right – the photo finish showed Dillard was first, followed by Ewell and La Beach. The Magic Eye had proved its worth. Olympic timekeeping has made important strides since 1948. Omega’s Swim Eight-O-Matic Timer, the first semi-automatic swimming timer in the world, was unveiled at Melbourne in 1956; ‘touchpads’ for swimmers to stop their own clocks were introduced in 1968 in Mexico City. In 1972, the new Swim-O-Matic was accurate to a 1,000th
Omega’s team for Rio will include more than 250 professionals, along with around 400 tons of equipment
Clockwise from left The men’s 100 metres at the 1948 Olympics saw the world’s first photo finish; Innsbruck 1964, regarded by Omega as the ‘first fully electronic’ Olympic Games; a traditional starting pistol; in 1948, swimmers’ ‘touchpads’ were still 20 years away; the starter pistol introduced in 2010
39
of a second. This wasn’t technological overkill: in Beijing 2008, only a 100th of a second separated gold and silver medallists Michael Phelps and Milorad Čavić in the men’s 100-metre butterfly. In 1984, Omega introduced pressure-sensitive devices to detect false starts for swimming and athletics. They measure the time between the start signal and an athlete leaving the blocks, so can determine whether anyone ‘jumped the gun’. The gun itself is also but a distant cousin of the smoke-and-bang models of old. In Vancouver in 2010, Omega introduced a futuristic pistol that looked as if it could be set to stun. It will be there at Rio. When the trigger is pulled, the classic ‘bang’ plays through speakers behind each runner’s block, ensuring each hears the acoustic signal at the same moment. A visual flash is emitted and a pulse sent electronically to the timing system to start the clock. Nobody can claim they missed the cue. Omega is also using transponders and GPS in new ways that will enable viewers of the Rio Games to enjoy the most sophisticated displays and graphics to date. The Swim Gate system can track swimmers’ progress in open water in real time using transponders on their wrists. Similar technology with GPS tracking/mapping is used to monitor the exact times and positions of runners in the marathon. GPS is also used in rowing, canoeing and sailing events, as well as cycling, allowing for eye-popping TV representations to show the viewer the state of the field. There was a time when steel tapes measured how far a ball or discus had been thrown, or how far or high an athlete had propelled him or herself. Today, competitors in the long- and triple-jumps, hammer throw, javelin, shot-put and discus competitions all rely on Omega laser systems to accurately calibrate their performance. And devices have become lighter and smaller. The Swim-O-Meter weighed a back-breaking 150kg in 1976. By 1980, it clocked in at 1.2kg and fitted in a briefcase. Omega’s Scan‘O’Vision Star photo finish is three times faster than in 1948, and is now digital (the ’48 version required chemical-developing baths), with a scan rate of 2,000 frames per second and image delivery times of around 15 seconds, not three minutes. The accuracy may have improved, the equipment shrunk, the number of operators grown and live web timings for events become de rigueur, but Omega’s mission in Rio 2016 is the same as ever. As the company’s president, Stephen Urquhart, puts it: ‘Omega’s objective has remained unchanged over the years: the flawless timekeeping of the world’s best athletes.’ ● omega.com
Art Deco • Brummell
41
Defining moment
What constitutes the essence of Art Deco design isn’t something the critics always agree on. Just as well the style is exemplified by three classic watches
Words: Stephen Bayley Illustration: Supermundane
There is no Art Deco philosophy. And maybe this is exactly why the style has endured. It was not a movement with manifestos and a political brief. There were never any Art Deco agitators, nor any shocking exhibitions. The only Art Deco tragedy was Isadora Duncan being killed by a scarf wrapping itself around the wheel of her Amilcar when at speed on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice. Instead, Art Deco was a decorative sensibility. And, as the gigantic 2003 exhibition at the V&A showed, it was not one style, but several. The variety of alternative names suggests this: Art Deco is also known as Jazz Modern and Moderne. That final suffixing ‘e’ was always used by detractors to suggest something less serious and more frivolous than the austere and technocratic ‘Modern’ of the Bauhaus metal workshops, with their electrical fittings and angle iron. An American variation on Art Deco was known, derisively, as Borax, the salt compound being cited to suggest something cheap and malleable. This was exactly what the new materials emerging in the 1920s and 1930s made possible: Plexiglass, Lucite, Fabrikloid and Bakelite allowed designers to do what natural materials would never permit. Look at 1930s magazines – Furniture Age, for example – and you will find wonderful articles: ‘Who’s to blame for Borax designs?’ (helpfully sub-titled ‘An address to women given at Bloomingdale’s’). This was illustrated with pictures of furniture designed by Gilbert Rohde. But the implication of fakery was unjust: in his later work for Herman Miller, Rohde helped establish the Modern orthodoxy in the United States. Art Deco and its derivatives were popularisations of high-minded Modernismo. And Art Deco architects and designers were unafraid of explicit and indulgent luxury, a notion that was, for a time, obnoxious to the strictobservation Functionalists who liked to wear
boiler suits and sit on cold benches. But then you look at the Grand Confort fauteuil by Modern master Le Corbusier and ask yourself whether its sumptuous upholstered black leather and racy chrome owe more to decadent French boudoir luxe or to the nostrum of ‘form follows function’. With Art Deco, it is always difficult to be doctrinaire. Luxury and frivolity are its essential components. So it’s a nice curiosity that three of the most enduring Art Deco designs are watches: the Cartier Tank, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and the Longines DolceVita. Here, the names give away the influencing sensibilities. ‘Tank’ because Louis Cartier admired the Renault tanks he had seen in bloody action on the Western Front. The watch’s lines reflect the no-nonsense general arrangement of military vehicles. The Reverso was designed so that action-man polo players could protect their timepiece in a rough-and-tumble chukka. And DolceVita evokes, of course, the good life. So there you have the basis for a definition of Art Deco design: an infatuation with machinery, a love of sport and a commitment to pleasure. The evolution of the term is interesting. In 1925, Paris hosted the vast Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. In the same way that a 1900 Paris exhibition had defined Art Nouveau, this exhibition on the Esplanade des Invalides defined Art Deco. Although no one called it that until Le Corbusier, one of the exhibitors, published a series of articles called ‘1925: Arts Deco’ in his own polemic, avant-garde magazine L’Esprit Nouveau. In 1966, Art Deco became accepted into the canon of art history with another Paris exhibition, called Les Années 25, although the curators lumped it in with De Stijl and the Bauhaus. Still, that can be forgiven, as the same curators discovered the Franco-Irish designer Eileen Gray. Then, in 1968, the critic Bevis Hillier published the very first
book called Art Deco. He had learnt the term from London art dealers. Dealers like Art Deco, perhaps sensing its refusal to be absolutely serious. True, the visual language of Art Deco was derived from Cubism, Constructivism and Futurism, but it has no ideology other than to delight. Thus, the greatest Constructivist painter is El Lissitzky, with his shrieking angles. And the greatest Art Deco painter is Tamara de Lempicka, with her stylishly sexualised and fractalised models slumped in a fast car with a cocktail and a cigarette. Or, make a comparison with De Stijl, the Dutch Modern Movement. Its greatest chair was Gerrit Rietveld’s impossible theorem in primary colours, which severs tendons. Art Deco’s greatest chair was Eileen Gray’s sumptuous Bibendum, named after Michelin’s gourmet-homunculus, an example of which recently sold at Christie’s for an undemocratic million dollars. The antiquarian term ‘masterpiece’ can still be used in the context of Art Deco since, despite the possibilities of industrial production, most of its memorials and monuments were either one-offs or limited editions. There is Gordon Buehrig’s superlative Cord L-29, the most architectural car ever. Or Raymond Loewy’s Pennsylvania S-1 locomotive. It’s impossible to overlook Donald Deskey’s Radio City Music Hall or William Van Alen’s Chrysler Building in New York. Perhaps a little less romantically, but no less significantly, visitors to the Fylde Coast can find Britain’s best Art Deco building on Morecambe’s sea front, where Oliver Hill built The Midland hotel in 1933. It looks like an ocean liner because Art Deco was always on the move. Perhaps at tea, guests ate scones off Clarice Cliff china while checking the arrival of the cocktail-hour martini on their Cartier watches. It was a frivolous and beautiful moment. ●
42
Brummell • Art Deco
Moderne motifs Six Art Deco-inspired watches that offer grace, style and enduring appeal
Words: Eleanor Pryor
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso To call the Reverso a sports watch may seem misleading, with its elegant dial and handsome shape. But it began as an antidote to those watches smashed in polo matches – the dial cleverly flipped over to protect this fragile component. Now, at the mighty age of 85, it enjoys huge popularity as an exceptional piece of 1930s style. This year, three new Reverso collections will launch – the One, the Classic and the Tribute – each updated but retaining the original trademark aesthetic. Reverso Tribute Duo, £8,600, jaeger-lecoutre.com
Cartier Tank Timeless is a ubiquitous word. However, if one piece of horological design has earned this accolade, it’s the Cartier Tank. Created in 1917, the prototype was gifted to General Pershing before being brought to the market in 1919. Its sharp, chic lines ensured it stood out from the Art Nouveau era that preceded it, and although not Cartier’s first watch, it is its most iconic. Subsequent variations – such as the Tank Louis Cartier, Anglaise and Americaine – testify to the enduring nature of the original. Tank Anglaise XL, £5,200, cartier.com
Longines DolceVita Launched in 1997, the DolceVita harks back to a bygone age of glamour and opulence. Inspired by the Italian ‘sweet life’, it combines sharp lines and soft curves for a feminine appeal, with a rectangular case that gracefully arches over the wrist. One of the brand’s most successful models, the DolceVita still captures the hearts of watch aficionados; over the years it has undergone subtle changes and is now available in a range of designs, including patterned dials and diamond-set cases. DolceVita L5.255.0.71.6, £2,130, longines.com
Tiffany East West This timepiece from Tiffany & Co, introduced last year, provides a daring take on dial design. It was inspired by a vintage Tiffany & Co ‘purse watch’, a small travel clock that folds in on itself to fit inside a chic case. The influence is felt in the horizontal alignment of the dial, and in the stylistic touches, such as its angular case and distinctive typography. Available with deep blue, teal, black and white dials, it’s easy to imagine on a businessman in 1940s New York. East West, £2,850, tiffany.co.uk
Chaumet Dandy The French watch and jewellery house was one of the leading lights of Art Deco design, participating in the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris that gave the movement its title. Today, it continues to bring Art Deco motifs into the 21st century with designs such as the Dandy, characterised by idiosyncratic stripes on the dial and a curved cushionshaped case. Polished indices and oversized numerals uphold that sense of Parisian elegance. Dandy 42mm, £2,838, chaumet.com
Harry Winston Art Deco If you’re looking to evoke the lavish and indulgent side of the era, then go all-out with the Art Deco from Harry Winston. Decked out in 253 diamonds totalling 15.56 carats, it recalls the very best of the elegant and sophisticated jewellery of the time. The structural, architectural bracelet comprises interlinking geometric shapes that wrap around the wrist, flowing into a delicate, elongated hexagonal dial. Art Deco, £POA, harrywinston.com
BRUMMELL • The little black book for the City Horology 2015
BRUMMELL • The little black book for the City
BRUMMELL • The little black book for the City
Autumn 2015
Best of times Horology special featuring old hands and new faces, plus masters, crafters and complications Future-proof bidding • Reno’s crazy aviation races • The pros of pre-owned • Recreating the New York minute
Spring 2015
Bright young things Celebrating 30 City hotshots under 40 • Culinary rising stars • Catching India’s new surfing wave Creative movers and shakers • Off-market property specialists • New watch brands with pedigrees
Peak practice Spring 2015
Summer 2015
Autumn 2015
Shaping up Honouring 30 inspirational women: champions of diversity • Cars of the future Hiking in the Havasu Canyon • Men’s style special: suiting and accessories for the debonair
Summer 2015
Horology 2015
Adventure-holiday accessories • Driving across Australia • Riding with mustangs Rugged timepieces • Stress busting • Off-road motorbiking • Britain’s exotic breeds
Subscribe to Brummell Brummell – both in print and online – is the little black book for the City. An invaluable source of information about what’s new in travel, food, art, style, motoring and property, it offers a sideways look at City culture, and forges connections with the financial community via regular networking events and round-ups of peer-judged talent. Brummell is available via postal subscription or by direct delivery to financial institutions: visit brummellmagazine.co.uk/subscribe. If you would like a minimum of 100 issues delivered, please email production@showmedialondon.com.
brummellmagazine.co.uk
44
Brummell • Chopard
What a score
On the occasion of its 20th year manufacturing haute-horology watches, Chopard is in a celebratory frame of mind. The Swiss brand also has another goal in sight…
Words: Richard Holt
There are many jewellery companies that also make watches. Some produce brilliant timepieces, but they remain jewellers first and watchmakers second. If you were to suggest that Chopard is in this category, you would be forgiven. But only just. The firm is indeed a purveyor of glittering jewels that add effortless glamour to the most sophisticated red-carpet events. But it began life as a watchmaker, and this is how it remains: watches and jewellery, not the other way around. Louis-Ulysse Chopard was the son of a farmer in the Swiss Jura mountains. Like many of their contemporaries, he and his brother were encouraged to take up watchmaking, so they’d have a trade to occupy them during the snow-paralysed months. Louis-Ulysse showed a talent for the work and an eye for business. Unwilling to assemble watches for other people and let them keep the profits, in 1860, aged 24, he set up his own company and fast established a reputation for making ultra-thin precision pocket watches with sophisticated decorations. He travelled far to push his wares, heading north to Scandinavia and east to Russia, where he won the patronage of Tsar Nicholas II. The business passed down two generations, in the process moving first to La Chaux-de-Fonds and then to Geneva. But 100 years after it was founded, its fortunes were in decline. Paul-André Chopard, grandson of the founder, had sons that wanted to pursue other interests and, at the age of 70, he put the company up for sale. The modern era began when Karl Scheufele III, a German jeweller and watchmaker who was also running a business started by his grandfather, bought Chopard. Alongside his wife Karin, Scheufele began to transform the company into the watch and jewellery giant it is today. Karl and Karin, now in their late seventies, still oversee the
This year, to mark the 20th anniversary of the collection, Chopard is releasing the L.U.C XPS 1860
business, but it is run day to day by their children, co-presidents Karl-Friedrich and Caroline. Caroline, a trained gemologist, is in charge of the high-jewellery side of the business, along with the boutiques, fragrances and accessories. Karl-Friedrich, a goldsmith and watchmaker – not to mention classic-car collector and long-time sponsor and star of the Mille Miglia vintage-car rally – takes care of the watch division, along with the technical and commercial side of the company. In 1996, he opened the Chopard Manufacture, a separate facility in Fleurier that produces the company’s haute-horology watches, a collection named L.U.C after the founder Louis-Ulysse. Having started with just two watchmakers, there are now more than 130, but Chopard does not plan to expand the team further, preferring instead to produce just a small number of the most sophisticated watches. On the 10th anniversary of the manufacture, Karl-Friedrich opened the L.U.Ceum on the top floor of the building. This educational display offers an in-depth look across five centuries of watchmaking, including, of course, a very comprehensive collection of Chopard pieces. This year, to mark the 20th anniversary of the collection, Chopard is releasing the L.U.C XPS 1860. This ultra-thin gold dress watch pays
homage to the L.U.C 1860, the first watch made by the Chopard Manufacture in 1996. It features tapering dauphine-style hands, and the automatic winding calibre has a 22-carat-gold micro rotor – a feature that allows it to have a 65-hour power reserve, difficult to achieve in a watch that is just over 7mm thick. It is also certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), like all L.U.C watches with a seconds indication. As well as referencing their horological heritage, the L.U.C pieces experiment with innovative materials, such as carbon and titanium, and high-frequency movements. One watch that caused a big stir when it was launched was the L.U.C 8HF Power Control. The titanium and ceramic case houses the first-ever movement with a high-frequency escapement to be chronometercertified by COSC. It has a frequency of 8Hz – or 57,600 vibrations per hour – twice the heartbeat of regular mechanical movement. The idea is that these low-volume, experimental watches will serve as a proving ground for processes that one day can be used in the neighbouring Fleurier Ebauches facility, where the bulk of Chopard’s watches are made. Chopard is still privately owned and family run, and the L.U.C watches are being used to showcase watchmaking skills and break new ground in both design and technology. Over the past 20 years, L.U.C timepieces have spearheaded the company’s move towards making ever-increasing proportions of its watches in-house – proprietary movements, but also cases, dials and even straps. This takes Chopard nearer to a position where it can make everything it needs without having to rely on other people. Something that would surely make the independent-minded founder proud. ● chopard.co.uk
Stephane Cardinale; Alexandra Pauli
Clockwise from above The L.U.C XPS 1860; actress LĂŠa Seydoux in Chopard jewellery; precision work; the L.U.C 8HF Power Control; company founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard (far right); the Fleurier Ebauches factory; co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele at the wheel of his Porsche 550 Spyder
46
Brummell • Need to know
C
M
Y
CM
Eddie Redmayne, who won an Oscar for his portrayal of Stephen Hawking, talks punctuality and his first ‘proper’ watch
Words: Peter Howarth
Of course today, with everyone carrying mobile phones, a mechanical watch has to be about more than just telling the time. Why is Redmayne such a fan of the Omega brand? ‘It’s the idea that something has a history – like Hardy Amies working with costume design [notably for 2001: A Space Odyssey]. And the fact Omega watches were used by the Royal Flying Corps in World War I, through to all the NASA stuff it did, and Buzz Aldrin wearing one on the moon. I like that they really tap into that. I mean, what an amazing history to have. So when you wear an Omega, it’s simple, it’s not screaming, but it has heritage.’ The star has said that he regards a welltailored suit as a modern suit of armour, as it prepares you for your encounter with the world. Is wearing a watch also part of that process for him? ‘I really do think that’s true. And you realise it with your first proper watch – it’s quite a big deal when you’re a kid, because it feels so grown-up.’ ● Eddie Redmayne is an Omega ambassador; omegawatches.com
Stockists Ami amiparis.fr Bottega Veneta bottegaveneta.com Breguet 020 7355 1735; breguet.com Bremont 0845 094 0690; bremont.com Brunello Cucinelli brunellocucinelli.com Cartier 020 3147 4850; cartier.co.uk Chaumet 020 7495 6303; chaumet.com Chopard 020 7409 3140; chopard.com Christopher Ward 01628 763040; christopherward.co.uk Dunhill 020 7385 8817; dunhill.com Hamilton hamiltonwatch.com Hermès 020 7098 1888; hermes.com Jaquet Droz jaquet-droz.com Mondaine mondaine.com Montblanc 0845 504 0111; montblanc.com Nomos nomos-store.com Patek Philippe 020 7493 8866; patek.com Paul Smith 00800 2224 4455; paulsmith.co.uk Piaget piaget.com Ralph Lauren ralphlauren.co.uk Raymond Weil raymond-weil.com Richard Mille richardmille.com Rolex 020 7024 7300; rolex.com Shinola shinola.co.uk Tiffany & Co 020 7499 4577; tiffany.co.uk Tudor 020 7024 7300; tudorwatch.com Vacheron Constantin 020 8585 1755; vacheron-constantin.com Van Cleef & Arpels vancleefarpels.com Victorinox 020 3734 9264; victorinox.com
MY
CY
CMY
K
Eddie Redmayne wears an Omega Globemaster Master Co-Axial Chronometer, £13,670; omegawatches.com
A brief history of time
On a film set, time is money. Which might account for Eddie Redmayne’s chronic punctuality. ‘I’m always embarrassingly on time,’ confesses the Academy Award winner. In fact, he and his wife once turned up to the Oscars 45 minutes early, as he was determined to be there in good time to prepare for his musical performance with the cast of Les Misérables. In the event, the couple had to wait around well away from the red carpet, with the tour buses, until they could be let in. Given his timekeeping fetish, it comes as little surprise that the 34-year-old British actor wears a wristwatch. Today, it’s an Omega Globemaster. So, has he always worn a watch? ‘I’ve oscillated. When I was a kid, I had a Swatch and then I didn’t wear one for a long time. But my dad had an Omega, a very beautiful, simple gold watch with a black strap: a De Ville. He gave me this watch and that’s where it all started. For me, there is a wonderful elegance about Omega: it’s a brand that has a lot of faith in its own capabilities and skills without having to scream too loudly.’