Heathrow Traveller

heaThrow T r av e l l e r t h e o f f i c i a l m a g a z i n e f o r h e at h r o w | S p r i n g 2 0 1 1

the colours of india a continent’s worth of dazzling destinations

short & sweet weekend breaks luxury for less watches, fashion and tech at the airport naughty but nice decadent hotels Plus: spas in the gulf + burgundy + foodies’ lisbon + alexander Mccall sMith

TILLIE BAG

MULBERRY.COM

Take home a memory of London With a great range of gifts available from the London 2012 Shops, conveniently located at Heathrow Terminal 5, Paddington Station, St Pancras Station or online.

And for a limited time, get a collectable pin badge FREE when you spend ÂŁ40 or more by presenting this ad at checkout.* * One per customer. While quantities last. Online code is LHRTRAV04. Offer runs until 1st May, 2011.

london2012.com/shop

W

e

l

c

o

m

Many of us whose royal wedding invitations got lost in the post are off out of the country – and that’ll give us a taste for more travel this summer.

In this issue, we focus on experiences that will live with you forever – be they European cultural highlights, or the memories that come from immersing yourself in the vivid life of India and its surprising, delightful people.

In challenging times, it is uplifting to see the strength and imagination of humanity overcoming adversity – qualities often seen in the novels of Alexander McCall Smith. Heathrow Traveller is very pleased to welcome him as our new columnist, putting much thought into travel. Also in this issue, musician Rufus Wainwright and champion golfer Graeme McDowell what they like best about travel.

And the issue is packed with ideas for fashion, tech and beauty bargains you can pick up at Heathrow and tips for making sure thosehappy memories start at the airport.

Shopping & Travel info

All flights detailed are direct routes from Heathrow, except where specified.

Throughout the magazine we’ve shown, where relevant, the Airport Price together with the High Street price*.

Where you see products at an Airport Price, all passengers, flying to all destinations, can buy at these prices, apart from selected liquor lines which are only available to those flying outside the EU. Passengers travelling to final destinations outside the EU may be requested to pay tax on purchases on arrival at your destination and/or if you bring them back with you when returning to the UK. Go to heathrow.com for the most up-to-date shopping information and contact details for individual stores.

All prices correct at time of going to press. Some products featured in this magazine are of limited availability in airport stores. Contact stores in advance to check availability.

Keep track of the WorldPoints you can earn at the airport: go to baaworldpoints.com.

Chris Madigan, Editor GILES CALDICoTT / AxIoM; DESIGN PICS INC. - RM CoNTENT / ALAMy

e

publiShed by ShoW media lTd 020 3222 0101 www.showmedia.net Editor Chris Madigan Art Director Martin Perry Associate Editor Arabella Dickie Designer Hillary Jayne Contributing Editor Henry Farrar-Hockley Sub Editors Sarah Evans, Tanya Jackson, Gill Wing Picture Editor Daniela Hart Beauty Editor Jenni Baden Howard

Editorial Director Joanne Glasbey Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth Heathrow Marketing Julia Gillam For advertising enquiries: Julia Pasaron 020 8741 8967 Colour reproduction FMG wearefmg.com Printing Southern Print wyndeham.co.uk

* Savings in World Duty Free stores are compared to the notional UK high street price, this being the average of prices from a survey of several high street stores. Details of these stores and individual prices are available on request.

Heathrow Traveller is published on behalf of BAA Airports Ltd by Show Media Ltd, 1-2 Ravey Street, London EC2A 4QP. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without prior written permission of the copyright owner. No responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions, or comments made by writers or interviewees.

Views expressed are not necessarily the views of BAA Airports Ltd, and services and goods advertised are not necessarily endorsed by BAA Airports Ltd. All prices and information correct at time of going to press.

Where there are price variations by terminal or location the highest is shown.

C o n t e n t s 22 48 City sprint

Tips and accoutrements for the business traveller

News from the airport and around the world

11 Travel news Hotels with signature scents, exciting new stores , an insider’s new York and more 18 Entertainment Well-travelled musician rufus Wainwright on the books and films he takes on tour; plus new DVDs and games 20 Gourmet travel the food of Lisbon, where the Portuguese sardine is the king of seafood 22 Excess all areas the most decadent hotels for partying or private moments 24 Drinks France’s wine-producing spine, the Burgundy region.

Plus a guide to vintage wines at the airport

Destination

This season’s big travel ideas 26 The big picture Underwater in the Blue Holes of Micronesia in the Pacific 28 Postcard from… graeme McDowell, the Us open golf champion who loves his home in northern Ireland

30 An Indian journey From the compelling Punjab in the north to colourful tamil nadu in the south, we celebrate the continent in one country that is India 36 Comment alexander McCall smith, creator of Mma ramotswe, on the way locations shape novels and literature influences our view of nations 38 Weekend breaks Choose your flight time and, in a couple of hours, you could be folk dancing in Bulgaria or ballooning over the alps 42 Formula 1 our pick of the most exciting and glamorous grands Prix to attend in person

59

the lounge

Unmissable fashion and beauty deals at Heathrow 45 Must-have the latest restyling of Bulgari’s beautiful and iconic B.zero1 pendant 46 Ticket-only fashion top looks for new York, Koh samui and Mumbai 48 Watches save hundreds of pounds on the world’s finest watches 50 Beauty Update your look with a sweep of blusher 52 Fragrance sense and sensibility: the best of British perfumes

Departures

Life at the airport and key Heathrow information 63 Giving well How Heathrow staff have been going the extra mile for charity 64 Airport news Find out how you can get even more out of your journey through Heathrow 66 A day in the life… of one of the key figures who helps Heathrow run smoothly 68 Food & drink tips from a member of Heathrow’s Journey team on eating at the airport 70 Maps & directory getting around Heathrow 74 Final call a look back at the history of Heathrow’s popular terminal 2 viewing platform

Beate sonnenBerg

travel Journal

54 United Arab Emirates the emirates’ capital, abu Dhabi, and its neighbour Dubai play out their business rivalry 58 Doha there’s more to the Qatari capital than a controversial football tournament 59 Gulf spas treatments and hammams in an unmistakably arabic setting 60 Focus group Invaluable tips for choosing the right camera for you

T r av e l Journal

H e aT H r o w T o . . .

PA R IS / BuenoS A IR eS / LoS A ngeL eS ne w YoR k / L ISBon / MIL An / CAIRo P lu s B u Rg u n dY / M u S IC I A n Ru f u S wA I n w R Ig h t / C of f e e B A R S

T r av e l J o u r n a l

d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s

hotels

e g y p t b a c k i n b u s i n e s s / v o l u n t o u r i s m / t h e l at e s t l e i c a

wElComE rEturn Egypt BounCEs BACk A month after the Foreign Office lifted its restrictions on travel to Egypt (check fco.gov.uk for latest advice), tour operators are clamouring to offer great deals on trips – for example, Cox & Kings (coxandkings.co.uk) is offering up to £400 off its luxury Nile cruises. There have been reports of ancient sites being looted, but there are also encouraging tales of locals banding together to protect tombs. And, always hospitable, the Egyptians are, unsurprisingly, happier than ever to welcome tourists. bmi, British Airways and Egypt Air fly to Cairo

n e w s f rom a rou n d t h e g l obe

givE A littlE, gAin A lot ‘voluntourism’ HolidAys

24 Hours of luxury A grAnd dAy on tHE CôtE d’Azur

frAmE And fortunE lowdown: lEiCA’s mAjEstiC m9

Bored at the prospect of another beach holiday? Do something worthwhile while you’re away instead. ITC Classics (itcclassics.co.uk) is the first luxury tour operator to offer ‘voluntourism’ – the opportunity to use your skills and experience on community projects ranging from education, health and social care to conservation and wealth creation in South Africa, Morocco, India, Thailand, Peru and the Caribbean. So much more satisfying than sunbathing.

The exclusive Le Mas Candille hotel (lemascandille.com) in Mougins, in the hills above Cannes, is offering a €1,000 (£872) package for two this summer, including accommodation in a room with a view over cypress trees and olive groves; dinner, including wine, at the Michelin-starred Le Candille restaurant; a buffet breakfast, lunch and a 60-minute spa treatment each in Europe’s first Shiseido spa.

It may have an old-world design, but Leica’s new M9 is the acme of high-end photography. Central to its peerless image quality is a 855sq mm 18MP full-frame image sensor, which ensures every pixel of your subject is captured, while its brass and magnesium alloy chassis ensures the camera is protected on the move. Granted, at £5,000, the M9 won’t suit every enthusiast’s budget, but then this is no ordinary investment.

Now available at Dixons Travel.

bmi and British Airways fly to nice

top f l ig h t A c c o rd i n g to re s e a rc h b y PR We e k /O ne P ol l , He at h row i s t he p u bl ic ’s favourite UK airport, It was also named the top UK airport for customer service, in addition to offering the best shopping and dining experience.

12

Collection Villeret ( réf. 6664-3642-55B )

www.blancpain.com BlanCpain Boutiques aBu DHaBi · BeiJinG · Cannes · DuBai · eKateRinBuRG · GeneVa · HonG KonG · MaCau MaDRiD · ManaMa · MosCoW · MuMBai · MuniCH · neW YoRK · paRis · sHanGHai · sinGapoRe · taipei · toKYo · ZuRiCH

0845 273 2500

T r av e l J o u r n a l

d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s

hotels

c a p i ta l n e w b o l t h o l e s / b o h o g l a m o u r i n t h e b i g a p p l e

n e w s f rom a rou n d t h e g l obe

four neW London HoteLs stAy in A LAndmArk LoCAtion Why merely visit London’s most famous landmarks when you can stay in them?

This month, a quartet of new hotels will welcome guests into some of the capital’s most famous locations, from Whitehall to Leicester Square, Syon Park to St Pancras.

The address of the Corinthia Hotel London (corinthia.com) is about as impressive as it gets – on Whitehall Place, it shares its street with no fewer than three government ministries.

It boasts not only the city’s largest Royal Suite, but its biggest spa, too – an E’SPA retreat ranged over four floors.

[t h e i n s i d e r]

n e w Yo r k Offbeat opulence on the East Side

Smaller, but no less inviting, the St John Hotel (stjohnhotel.com) – the first from Fergus Henderson, chef-proprietor of London’s offally good restaurant of the same name – sits neatly on the edge of Leicester Square and Chinatown. With 15 bedrooms, a bar, and a restaurant serving comfort food around the clock, it offers a home-from-home in town.

However, if greenbelt is more to your liking, book one of 137 rooms and suites at the Waldorf Astoria London Syon Park (waldorfastoria.com), located on a 200-acre estate equidistant between Heathrow and the West End. Last but not least, the Marriott St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel (marriott.co.uk), pictured, occupies the gothic building once described by Sir John Betjeman as ‘too beautiful and too romantic to survive’ in a world of tower blocks and concrete. The edifice in question comprises 245 rooms, with a restaurant run by Michelin-magnet Marcus Wareing, and a world-famous railway terminus as a backdrop. heathrow.com/toandfrom

The bohemian Gramercy Park Hotel offers an arty alternative to the city’s other five-stars. David Moreno is its chief concierge.

What are the city’s best bars?

I love the Rose Bar here at the hotel – it really is one of New York’s most original spaces.

And restaurants?

Il Buco (ilbuco.com), a charming enoteca,

and Daniel (daniel nyc.com), Daniel Boulud’s threeMichelin-star French restaurant.

Where’s the best view in the city?

The one from the Brooklyn Bridge.

And what tourist attraction is not to be missed?

The Rockefeller Center (rockefeller center.com) – it’s a Big Apple staple, with galleries, gardens, the Radio

LAte, LAte snoW CAtCH tHe LAst of tHe ski seAson With Easter arriving late this year, there is still the chance to enjoy spring skiing in the Alps. Many resorts are open until the end of April, but some tour operators relying on charter planes end the season earlier. The answer is scheduled flights from Heathrow and a specialist who can find the ideal accommodation for you.

For the best private residences, contact the Luxury Chalet Collection (luxury chaletcollection.com) and for deals on hotels and apartments, try Powderbeds (powderbeds.com). Both select carefully before adding accommodation to their books – no horrid Alpine shoeboxes here!

City Music Hall and NBC Studios.

How do the locals enjoy themselves?

We stroll through the West Village neighbourhood.

The cobbled streets, sidewalk cafés and boutiques make for a great afternoon.

Where would you go for a day out of the city?

I’d go to Beacon, NY. It’s 90 minutes away and the views of the Hudson River

are just spectacular.

As chief concierge, what exclusive event could you arrange?

With about a week’s notice, I can get guests into NBC’s Saturday Night Live.

Usually, there’s a lottery for tickets.

Gramercy Park Hotel, 2 Lexington Avenue, New York, (00 1 212 920 3300; gramercy parkhotel. com). Rooms from $535/£328)

British Airways and five other carriers fly to new york. for details, go to heathrow.com/destinations 14

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley; Rufus Purdey

T r av e l J o u r n a l

d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s

hotels

h a p p y l a n d i n g s f o r l a d u r é e / s c e n t s at i o n a l h o t e l s tay s

... n e w s ...

[travel trend]

a r o m a w it h a v i e w Hotels that have their own signature scent

Heathrow passengers are in for a sweet treat when luxury French patisserie brand Ladurée opens a temporary concession in T5. Until June, choose from a delectable array of cakes, chocolates and, of course, its famed macaroons, above – available in 12 flavours that include rose petal, pistachio, salted butter caramel and orange blossom.

FroM Bright Lights to stArs A NAVAjo AdVeNture NeAr VegAs Las Vegas is huge fun and well worth a few days’ wide-eyed visit, but it’s not exactly authentic. As a balance, head out to Monument Valley, stay with the Navajo people in a mud hut and join cowboys for a barbecue. Return via the Grand Canyon, Hoover Dam and Route 66. From £399 (trekamerica.co.uk).

British Airways flies to Las Vegas

Not content with developing their own signature cocktails, bath products and soundtracks, hip hotels are nothing these days unless they have a signature scent.

At most Sofitels, premium rooms offer a fragrance menu from which guests can select a scent as they would the morning paper, choosing from calming vanilla, energising bergamot or revitalising ginger and lime. It also has a special foyer scent, and another for meetings (good for disguising the stench of boredom).

Omni hotels, which has 45 hotels across North America, has surveyed its customers to establish their smell preference – luckily, given the possibilities, it’s lovely lemongrass and green tea. For the Wynn in Las Vegas, it’s Asian Rain throughout, while the W hotel chain goes for Sicilian fig, ‘infused with rich cypress

and finished with lemon blossom and heliotrope’ and available in candle form in W hotel shops. Earlier this year though, there was quite a stink when one guest discovered W (the latest of which opened recently on Leicester Square, London) also has a top-secret custom scent, the details of which staff refused to reveal to him.

And boutique abodes are following suit – the Five Hotel (i-escape.com/ thefivehotel.php) in Paris has a diffuser in every room offering three scents: relaxing, invigorating and, this being Paris, sensual. The Mine Hotel in Buenos Aires (i-escape.com/mine hotel.php), meanwhile, opts for the fragrance of tropical cocoa butter.

Smell brings back memories like no other sense, so whenever that top note is smelt post-visit, it’s virtually a subliminal nudge towards a repeat booking. Clever.

s tay i n t h e l o o p B e f o r e t r a v e l l i n g o v e r s e a s , v i s i t t h e F o r e i g n O f f i c e w e b s i t e (f c o . g o v. u k) f o r u p - t o - d a t e t r a v e l a d v i c e o n e v e r y c o u n t r y a c r o s s t h e g l o b e .

Sign up for email alerts to receive the latest updates for your destination.

16

Words Gemma Bowes, travel editor of The Guardian

ALAMy; GETTy IMAGES

LAdurée LANds iN t5 MouthwAteriNg MAcArooNs

BOSS Black

HUGO BOSS AG Phone +49 7123 940 www.hugoboss.com

T r av e l J o u r n a l

e n t e r ta i n m e n t

r u f u s wa i n w r i g h t ’ s t r av e l e s s e n t i a l s / g a m e s / D v D s

Having started travelling long ago, at this point I consider it a kind of parallel universe, something apart from what happens at home.

It has its own joys and sorrows, its own highs and lows. I have learned to enjoy it but I never really get used to it.

At the moment, I’m packing lots of Trollope.

Dickens and Thackeray are brilliant but with Trollope I forget I’m reading a novel.

They’re great books for long excursions because they’re very, very long so they last the whole trip. And somehow – despite the Victorianness and the subtlety and length – whenever I pick one up, even if I’ve left it for a while, I can remember all that’s happened so far. I’d advise starting with The Way We Live Now. It has a great horrifying baronet, Sir Felix Carbury [played by Matthew Macfadyen in the BBC’s 2001 adaptation] – I’m always very attracted to rogue aristocrats!

I like to watch movies when I travel. In fact I’m watching a lot of movies generally right now because I have a baby [Wainwright, who is gay, has fathered a

Victorian novels and vintage Hollywood films are some of Rufus Wainwright’s favourite things

[t ravel enter ta i n ment]

Rufus Wainwright The singer and composer takes a Trollope on every trip child with Leonard Cohen’s daughter, Lorca; his partner Jörn Weisbrodt is ‘Deputy Dad’] and I’ve been using them to keep me awake during night feedings. I’m loving an early Katharine

Hepburn film, Morning Glory, where she’s an aspiring Broadway actress, and this wild Orson Welles movie, The Lady

From Shanghai. I’m pretty much an Old Hollywood guy, but I loved Black Swan – I’m such a big Tchaikovsky fan.

Music-wise, there’s one artist who means a lot to me right now. She died a week before my mother [the folk singer Kate McGarrigle], also of cancer, in January last year.

She’s a Canadian singer called Lhasa. Listening to her songs helped me through my mother’s death, because she wasn’t afraid to sing about death, and a lot of the things she was referencing were things that my mother was going through but couldn’t really talk about. Her voice is bewitching, and her music has this dark, brooding, but somehow uplifting character.

She came from a family of circus people and sings in English, French, Spanish, Russian – she’s really cosmopolitan. HT Rufus Wainwright plays at the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, promising ‘five nights of velvet, glamour and guilt’ on 18-23 July. For tickets, call 020 7304 4000 or visit roh.org.uk Tickets range from £25–£100

Some of the biggest names in alternative rock and folk are back with big releases this spring

18

1. King Of Limbs by Radiohead, £8.32 2. Angles by The Strokes, £8.32 3. Wasting Light by Foo Fighters, out 11 April 4. Helplessness Blues by Fleet Foxes, out 2 May 5. Euphoric Heartbreak by Glasvegas, out 4 April Prices and availability correct at time of printing, but subject to change

Interview Danny Eccleston, senior editor of MOJO magazine

ALAMY

IT’S IndIe rock’n’roll for me

Book/DIary of a WImpy kID: Dog DayS Jeff kinney, £6.99 The fourth instalment in the best-selling Diary of a Wimpy Kid series sees pre-teen protagonist Greg embarking on the school holidays with a very different idea from his mother of how to have fun – and a new pet who seems determined to cramp his style.

resolution breaker, hopelessly addicted to overconsumption – but he also stands for the rest of us. When he gets his comeuppance, it’s a reminder that we’re not likely to have the last laugh.

BookS & dvdS

DvD/famIly guy SeaSon 10 20th Century fox Home entertainment, released 9 may In the latest season of the cult animated American TV series, the Griffins and fellow Quahog residents attend a party at James Woods’ mansion and are embroiled in a murder mystery.

Book/THe long Song andrea levy, £7.99 Levy’s latest novel evokes the final days of slavery in 19th-century Jamaica.

The octogenarian narrator, Miss July, recalls her enslavement and eventual emancipation with as much wit as pathos in a book set to garner as much acclaim as the awardwinning Small Island.

DvD/THe kIDS are all rIgHT universal pictures uk, £10.82 Lesbian couple Nic and Jules (Annette Bening and Julianne Moore) are married with teenage

DvD/Harry poTTer & THe DeaTHly HalloWS parT 1 Warner Home video, released on 11 april The trio of friends search for the pieces of Voldemort’s soul he extracted from his being.

Dark forces, romantic tensions and long-held secrets threaten to sabotage the mission.

children conceived through sperm donation. When the kids track down their ‘biodad’, Paul (Mark Ruffalo), a new chapter begins and family ties are redefined.

his wisdom on how to rethink the traditional, formulaic approach to job hunting and create your own luck – even in today’s tough economic climate.

and from the unlikeliest of places. The female sewing machinists down tools when they are regraded as unskilled, and strike a blow for equal pay.

Book/geT THe JoB you really WanT James Caan, £12.99 In this step-by-step guide to landing your dream career, Dragon’s Den’s James Caan shares

DvD/maDe In DagenHam paramount Home entertainment, £10.82 It’s 1968, and the Ford motor company is facing its biggest-ever threat,

Book/Solar Ian mcewan, £7.99 Ian McEwan approaches the climate crisis in comic mode in his new novel. His central character, Michael Beard, is a self-deluding

Book/QuIrkology: THe CurIouS SCIenCe of everyDay lIveS professor richard Wiseman, £8.99 This depiction of odd psychological experiments kicks off with an invitation to trace the letter Q on your forehead. How you do it reveals much about your personality. It’s about which way you point the tail. Really? To your left? Interesting…

DvD/megamInD Dreamworks Home entertainment Supervillain Megamind (voiced by Will Ferrell) conquers Metro City’s protector, Metro Man (Brad Pitt). When a new bad guy’s created, the world’s biggest mind and his comic sidekick might actually save the day.

DVDs, games and CDs from HMV. All these books are available in a ‘buy one, get one half price’ deal at WHSmith & WHSmith Bookshops

la noire Game PlayStation 3/Xbox 360, released 20 May. Set in Forties LA, this hard-boiled thriller is one of the most original video games in years. Its motion-capture technology lets you read the most subtle nuances in the behaviour of witnesses and suspects alike to judge who’s telling the truth. reviews Gill Wing

Heathrow Travel l er 19

T r av e l J o u r n a l

G o u r m e t t r av e l

Sardhinas assadas – simple but delicious Below: a pasteis de Belém

[t h e a u t h e n t i c t a s t e o f. . .]

Lisbon The city on the Atlantic where the sardine is worshipped with almost religious fervour – and the custard tarts are divine From the top of the Bairro Alta, you can see the marble cobbles of Lisbon’s pavements and pedestrian zones gleaming in the sun. The slabs of bright white make the city look as if it is covered with fish counters. And that’s not far from the truth. The Portuguese capital’s location, on the huge estuary of the Tagus river on the Atlantic coast, means seafood dominates its menus.

On the Cais do Sodré, the former wholesale fish market Mercado da Ribeira still sells seafood to the public, as well as fruit, vegetables and meat.

Further west along the riverbank is another area where leisure has replaced industry – the revitalised docks of Santo Amaro. Under the towering 25 de Abril

bridge, beside a yacht marina, former warehouses have been transformed into bars and restaurants. Restaurante 5 Oceanos has a fishmonger’s slab from where you can choose your fish – bass, bream, grouper – to be grilled and served simply with lemon, coriander and oil, and steamed vegetables that are really an afterthought.

Alternatively, this being the Atlantic coast, you can opt for salt cod.

All around the city, an anonymous doorway will open into a room filled with the hard white sail-shaped cured fish hanging from the roof.

Once soaked, bacalhao is cooked with potatoes, olives, boiled egg, parsley and parika. Paprika and cinnamon are popular spices in Lisbon, thanks to Portugal’s time ruling the trade routes to Asia.

Lisboetas might love salt cod, but each summer they succumb to a holiday romance. June sees street parties in honour of St Peter, St John and Lisbon’s own St Anthony. As the preacher who reputedly gave a sermon to hundreds of fish, he is honoured by the setting up oil-drum barbecues, and the smell of sardinhas assadas fills the city.

Is it divine intervention that the saint’s day, 13 June, falls right in the best fortnight for plump, juicy sardines?

Although the season is officially from the end of May to September, don’t be surprised to be told by July that they’re done for the year. However, there is an alternative. It’s not often the search for foodie authenticity strays away from fresh goods, but a canned sardine is different. At least, it is at Conserveira de Lisboa on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros.

The 80-year-old shop is piled high with 120 varieties of canned fish, and the superior, diamond-shaped Portuguese sardines have utterly unnoticeable bones and hold together better than any you’ve ever had.

Lisbon is, in part, a bustling city of narrow, steep streets. The ancient Moorish quarter of Alfama and the party district that is Bairro Alto have different atmospheres, but, in both, you’ll find places to sit at a tiny outside table for a Superbock or Sagres beer, vinho verde (a slightly sparkling white wine only called green because of its youth), or a white port and tonic, accompanied by caracóis (snails) or tremoços (sweet lupin beans soaked in brine).

In Alfama, most meals are accompanied by music – this is the home of fado, the national torch song.

Some restaurants put on a whole show over the course of your meal. But there

British Airways and TAP Air Portugal fly to Lisbon 20

CORBIS/PHOTOLIBRARY

t h e b e s t o f p o r t u G u e s e c u i s i n e / t h e n e w c o f f e e c a p i ta l s

are other little spots (look for low-key entrances on Rua dos Remédios), where you can enjoy a traditional meal of caldeirada (fish stew), cozido à Portuguesa (vegetable stew with a bit of pork) or caldo verde (cabbage soup with chouriço sausage) while roving singers perform a few emotive numbers.

Not all of Lisbon’s food is steeped in such tradition. The Michelin-starred Eleven is leading a new crop of chefs, such as Alexandre Silva at Bocca, who are shaking up local specialities. His signature dish is smoked duck with sardine and scallop salad, sardine foam and Alentejo lettuce, and his mission is to convince Lisboetas that vegetables and fruit are good!

It would be hard convincing them to choose fruit over the city’s world-famous custard tarts. Pastéis de Belém were invented by monks at the Jeronimo monastery, next door to which was a sugar refinery. The shop here, open since 1837, sells 17,000 a day – more crisp and creamy than from anywhere else, and sprinkled with cinnamon. Irresistible. HT

Grounds for o pTimism wat c h o u t , m i l a n a n d s e at t l e : there’s Global competition t o s e rv e t h e b e s t c o f f e e

Sydney, Australia The latest country to gain a reputation for paying obsessively detailed attention to its coffee, Australia is exporting barristas like it used to send barmen into the world. Sydney boasts many great coffee shops: Single Origin in Surry Hills (singleorigin.com.au) is notable for its wine list-style choice of beans.

Auckland, New Zealand Just like Russell Crowe and Crowded House, the Australian coffee phenomenon, the ‘flat white’, is really from New Zealand. Espresso Workshop (espressoworkshop.co.nz) has perfected the art in coffee-mad Auckland.

Istanbul, Turkey Turkish coffee is a completely different experience to espresso, brewed in pots and poured, unfiltered, into cups. It’s good and raw, so you always play chicken, sipping closer and closer to the grounds. The most atmospheric venue to drink it is Şark Kahvesi, the Oriental Coffee House in Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar.

3 meals in lisbon Open Inspira Santa Marta Hotel; inspirahotels.com Breakfast in the stylish boutique spa hotel on homemade breads and jams.

5 Oceanos Doca de Santo Amaro; 5oceanos.pt Lunch by the river: choose grilled fish or clams with lemon, garlic, coriander and wine.

Bocca Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca; bocca.pt Waitresses in Converse to match the pea-green walls; an impressive wine list ; and deconstructivist takes on Lisbon faves such as red mullet with tomato and coriander.

Jakarta, Indonesia The most expensive coffee in the world takes an unusual journey – through a civet’s digestive system. At Jakarta’s Kopi Luwak shops (kopiluwak.org), the drink comes from coffee ‘cherries’ that are swallowed by the cat and come out partially fermented. The resultant coffee is rich and delicious. No, really.

For flight information go to heathrow.com/destinations Words Chris Madigan

Heathrow Travel l er 21

T r av e l J o u r n a l

hedonistic hotels

b u e n o s a i r e s / l a / pa r i s / l o n d o n / l a s v e g a s / m i l a n

1

[ h o t e l s]

Excess all areas

There’s only one thing better than staying in a stylish city and that’s a spell in a decadent hotel 1. Faena HoTel + Universe, BUenos aires

More of an experience than a mere hotel, the Faena Hotel + Universe in Buenos Aires incorporates a nightclub, spa with hammam, two restaurants and a performance space, as well as 100 Philippe Starck-designed rooms. The décor is gloriously OTT – think stainedglass doors and animal heads mounted on red velvet. F Suite, one of 21 individually designed suites, is the most expensive hotel room in South America. faenahotelanduniverse.com British airways

22

2. CHaTeaU MarMonT, los angeles

3. le MeUriCe, Paris

This Hollywood icon has backdropped many a Tinseltown tale. It’s where Dean auditioned for Rebel without a Cause, Harlow romped with Gable, and Led Zep rode motorbikes in the lobby. André Balazs has remained sympathetic to the hotel’s original Thirties décor, based on a château in the Loire. There’s even a discreet first-floor check-in desk – accessible only by private elevator – used by secretive A-listers. chateaumarmont.com

The spirit of the Ancien Regime is alive and well at this 175-year-old located beside the Tuileries gardens and the Louvre. A Louis XVI aesthetic dictates the décor in its 120 rooms and 40 suites, while its communal areas have been revamped in a modern rococo fashion by sultan of sumptuous style, Philippe Starck. They now include such OTT touches as silver-leaf chairs, gigantic gilt mirrors and, in Restaurant le Dali, a hand-painted 1,560sq ft ceiling canvas. lemeurice.com

air new Zealand, american airlines, Ba, United airlines, virgin atlantic

air France, British airways

Words Rufus Purdy

1. Pool bar at Faena Hotel + Universe; 2. A hillside bungalow at the Château Marmont; 3. Le Dali restaurant at Le Meurice; 4. London’s new W Hotel; 5. Le Cirque at the Bellagio; 6. ‘Life Is A Bed Of Roses’ at Maison Moschino

2

3

4

5

4. W london, london

This brand-new addition to the W Hotels portfolio is about as decadent as it gets.

Even its room categories – which go from Wonderful to Wow – betray a glitzy sense of fun. The Away Spa, Spice Market restaurant and clubby Wyld bar have all been designed with sensuality in mind. For real indulgence, though, check out the Studio 54-inspired E Wow Suite, which features mirrorballs on the ceiling and a four-person shower. Not that we’re suggesting anything… wlondon.co.uk heathrow.com/toandfrom

6

5. Bellagio resorT & Casino, las vegas

Even by Vegas standards, this 3,993room property is a little on the showy side. It includes a 65,000sq ft spa, seven bars and 16 restaurants, one of which (Picasso) has a collection of paintings worth $30m. Apart from the enormous casino, entertainment ranges from botanical gardens to a nightly Cirque du Soleil show. Bellagio suites come with two separate bathrooms – one with a Jacuzzi, the other with a steam shower. bellagio.com British airways

6. Maison MosCHino, Milan

Even in the far-from-retiring fashion world, Moschino is renowned for brazen eccentricity. So it’s no surprise that this hotel is as outlandish as they come. In all 65 rooms, opulence reigns. How about a ‘Life Is A Bed Of Roses’ room, where petals seem to fall from a chandelier. Things are no less magical in the Clandestino Milano restaurant, where dishes such as mint-and-coconut paste served on a toothbrush would have even Derek Zoolander raising an eyebrow. maisonmoschino.com alitalia, British airways, lufthansa

Heathrow Travel l er 23

T r av e l J o u r n a l

burgundy

A r g u A b ly t h e b e s t w i n e - p r o d u c i n g r e g i o n i n t h e w o r l d

[ F r e n c h w i n e]

Variety shows Stretching along a route south of Paris and north of Lyon, Burgundy boasts the highest concentration of celebrated names in the wine world.

But getting your head around them is no easy task – the region has the most complex wine classification system. it is home to three grape varieties that all make benchmark wines: silky, strawberry-ish Pinot noir; intense, nutty chardonnay; and juicy, fruity Gamay – the one from which Beaujolais is made. Because of its northern location, full ripeness is a gamble, hail can strike at any time and spring frosts lurk around the corner. red Burgundy is the most difficult to make well – Pinot noir is multi-cloned, thin-skinned, and rot- and virus-prone. chardonnaybased white Burgundy is easier, but can still be spoiled. now for that classification system. there are general appellations, such

Bag some Burgundy

as Bourgogne rouge, and regional ones, such as chablis. village wines come next, naming the best villages, such as meursault. next up is premier cru, a village’s second-best vineyard, as in meursault-charmes. the best are the grands crus – the top wines from the top vineyards – which dispense with the village name altogether. the complex geology means big differences between wines produced

3

1

5

Five fine wines from World Duty Free 1. Pouilly Fuissé Clos sur la Roche 2008, £26.99 2. Château Corton Grancey 2005, £72.49 3. Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2005, £215 4. Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 2008, £16.99 5. Vosne Romanée Premier Cru les Suchots 2006, £57.49

24

2

4

in close proximity. red Burgundy varies from Santenay’s light, perfumed, redcurrant fruit to sturdy, blackberry fruit of Gevrey-chambertin and Pommard, while the best white Burgundy ranges from the intricate, lush meursault to the flinty Pulignyand Bâtard-montrachet. the Burgundy region starts in the north, 90 minutes south of Paris along the autoroute du Soleil, with steely chablis. another hour brings you to the côte d’or, where the best red and white Burgundy is made. Between tiny, obscure marsannay-la-côte and cheilly-les-maranges, you will come across more familiar names, such as nuits-St-Georges, Savigny-lesBeaune, aloxe-corton, Pommard, chassagne-montrachet and Santenay.

Beaune makes a great base for exploring Burgundy and its fabled cuisine. it has wheat and barley fields in the north, game- and mushroom-

Words Fiona Sims

Giovanni Simeone/Sime/4cornerS; chateau de BaGnoiS; travelBild.com/alamy

Discovering a wealth of different wine styles on the appellation trail in Burgundy

Similarly, people often say,for example, ‘I hate Chardonnay.’ Are they restricting themselves on false grounds?

The village of Vergisson is one of hundreds in Burgundy surrounded by vines

yes – they probably just don’t like one end of that spectrum, usually the heavy, new World end. if i had a pound for every wine buyer who said they hated chardonnay, then asked for a chablis, which is made from the same grapes…

Which New World wines are giving the French vintages a run for their money?

rich forests in the morvan, and rolling pastures in charolles, home of charolais beef, in the south. French favourites such as snails, coq au vin and, naturally, boeuf bourguignon, originate here. hole up at Beaune’s hotel des remparts (hotel-rempartsbeaune.com) and enjoy the town after the day trippers have disappeared. the vineyards become dark chess squares in the inky dusk, the vines rooted solidly in their stony soils, leading towards a silent crest of forest.

Further south is the côte chalonnaise, which gives way to the mâconnais and Beaujolais. the little town of chagny (home of Burgundy institution the great maison lameloise restaurant and hotel, lameloise.fr) is effectively the gateway to the côte chalonnaise. as established as the côte d’or, but not as celebrated, the villages of mercurey, rully and Givry all offer wines that are more economical.

Beaujolais and the mâconnais overlap both geographically and stylistically. historically plonk, Beaujolais was served in pitchers, but the finest examples can now achieve giddy heights – at their best in the 38 communes allowed to call their wine Beaujolais villages. the best wines in the mâconnais are the whites, including Pouilly-Fuissé and St-véran. lord it up at the château du Bagnols (bagnols.com), which offers stunning views across Beaujolais, and great food, and finish the trip in lyon, which has more restaurants per head than anywhere else in the world. HT

[v i n t a g e w i n e]

ta s t i n g notes World Duty Free wine consultant James Handford, Master of Wine, answers FAQs and suggests some vintage favourites

Daunted by the idea of buying vintage wine?

World Duty Free staff are wine lovers who are enthusiastic about sharing their experience and keen to offer their advice.

How do good and bad vintages work? these days, you rarely get bad vintages, so there’s only the odd year – 1984, 1987, 1993 – that gets written off. Generally speaking, there are just good years and standout years – 1982, 1990, 2005 and 2009 have been the best for Bordeaux.

it depends on the vineyard, but if i had to pick one country, it would be South africa, if you can call it new World – they’ve been making wine for over 300 years! their wine styles are closer to the european and the prices of genuinely premium wines tend to stay low.

What are the most common misconceptions about serving wine?

Whites can be served too cold. you won’t taste them! also, many people only decant reds, but older whites have an even greater need to be decanted.

What’s the best find of your career, in terms of rare bottles? the time i asked a grower in vouvray what that pile of mould in the corner was and he dug out a bottle and found a 60-year-old white in tip-top condition. it tasted divine.

Meerlust Rubicon 2006, £20

Which will be the most interesting vintage wines at World Duty Free this spring and summer? all our wines are hand-selected for value, interest and pleasure, but i’d highlight the 2004 Bordeaux reds and the exceptional 2004 Barbaresco from Gaja and the viña del olivo 2005 from contino.

Faiveley Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru 2002, £50

Will connoisseurs find any nice surprises? yes. côte-rôties from Guigal, from the special 2001 vintage, are a rare sight, and there are some wonderful, ‘funky’ white italians. many will just enjoy stroking the yquems, latours, lafites and margaux!

E. Guigal Côte-Rotie 2001, £200

And are there any tasting opportunities?

We have an enomatic dispenser, meaning that, any one time, you can try one or more of a selection of 12 wines.

If you find one wine you like, is it a good bet that you’ll like all wines made from that grape or from that region, or is that too simplistic? a little. each variety offers a spectrum of flavours, and it’s the difference between them all that makes wine the special drink that it is.

Air France and British Airways fly to Paris; BA flies to Lyon

Château Pichon Lalande 2004, £100

Château Lafite-Rothschild 1995, £1,000

Heathrow Travel l er 25

DESTINATION India

Weekend breaks

Golfer Graeme McDowell on Ireland

The big PicTure: blue holes, Pa l au, m i c r o n e s i a Italian underwater photographer Roberto Rinaldi took this haunting image at the Blue Holes dive site, north-west of Ngemelis Island, Paulau, Micronesia. A former diving instructor who became the official photographer for underwater explorer Jacques Cousteau, Rinaldi is passionate about capturing the hidden worlds below the sea.

Helena Norman, the diver in this image, recalls the striking scene at the Blue Holes site as she headed for the Blue Corner, described as the world’s best dive site: ‘The dive at the Blue Holes usually starts by swimming over the shallow reef and descending through one of the four holes on top of the reef into a large cavern flooded with rays of sunlight that create a spectacular sight. Each of the holes on top of the reef appears as if it was painted in different tonalities of light blue.’ Setting off towards the Blue Corner, she adds, ‘we were hit by one of the strong currents so often present in this area. The current was against us but we made it to the Blue Corner and witnessed a shark feeding frenzy.’

China Airlines flies to Palau (Koror Airport) via Taipei

Formula 1 venues

Heathrow Travel l er 27

D e s t i n at i o n

Postcard

G r a e m e mc d ow e l l

I don’t know if I can technically call home a holiday destination, but given the globetrotting lifestyle of a professional golfer, it is my favourite holiday destination. i grew up in a small town in northern ireland called Portrush – and it boasts some of the finest food, views, people and golf courses you will ever see. i tend to stay in my two favourite places – at home with my parents, or in my own penthouse apartment in the town centre. i do like to spend a few days in my old bedroom in the family home. nothing better than my mum, marion, pampering me. and, my, does she do that well! i’ve been away so much the past few years

Portrush: GMac’s 19th Hole When the Irish golfer has wins to celebrate, there is no shortage of venues in his home town that these times are really special for us all. But i also love my apartment a few minutes away; it overlooks the stunning irish sea.

When i go home, there is nothing better than a pint of guinness. you just can’t beat the quality of guinness when you’re in ireland and it is my favourite pint – particularly at rathmore golf club, where i learnt my trade. i also enjoy spending some time at the more

famous royal Portrush golf club, arguably the finest links course in the world. But i like nothing more than a friendly fourball with my dad and two brothers. away from the course, my favourite location for food and drink is the harbour, where there is an excellent selection of venues, all right beside each other. For fine fresh food and quality wine, the ramore Wine Bar is excellent. right beside that is the harbour inn, which also does great food and plays

great music late into the night. there is a nightclub upstairs and that can go on until the early hours – i have had many a homecoming celebration at the harbour inn! if you want a really great evening in a classic pub, then head next door to the harbour Bar. For the best hospitality and food, i would send you to my mum’s house, and the funny thing is she would probably welcome you in with open arms!

Portrush has to be seen to be believed. there are some stunning walks along the beach and cliff faces (pictured) and let’s not forget that my home town boasts one of the world’s natural wonders, the volcanic columns that form the giant’s causeway. i grew up loving the area, and when i leave, i always i miss it. i can’t wait for the next time i’m there. HT

Aer Lingus flies to Belfast International; bmi flies to Belfast City 28

Heathrow Travel l er 28

the irish image collection/axiom; andy lyons/getty images

Graeme ‘GMac’ McDowell won last year’s US Open Golf Championship and completed a stunning 2010 by clinching the crucial point to defeat the US in the Ryder Cup. He went on to be awarded an MBE in the New Years’ Honours List

Nature’s Plantscription rivals an anti-wrinkle prescription.

TM

88% of the visible wrinkle-reducing power of a prescription 0% irritation New. Plantscription™ Anti-aging serum with Anogeissus.

Although it’s not a prescription, in just 4 weeks nature’s next generation power plant noticeably reduces wrinkle length & depth. Without the irritation. Visibly helps repair the vertical fret lines between your eyes, the stubborn furrows across your forehead and the deepening frownies that frame your mouth.

Youthful “bounce” is revived. Skin is clinically firmer, smoother and more lifted-looking. With continued use, results improve. And for £38.25, satisfaction is guaranteed (or your wrinkles back).

See results at origins.com.

Only available in Heathrow T3 and T1.

Visit Origins counter in T3 for your personalised skincare consultation and a complimentary sample*. *One per customer, while stocks last.

Suggested retail price £38.25

D e s t i n at i o n

DELHI, MUMBAI, CHENNAI & MorE

Whether you want breathtaking tropical rainforests or ancient sandy cities, bustling food markets or the quiet calm of sacred temples, India has a variety of scenery and peoples unlike anywhere else in the world, just waiting to be discovered

An Indian journey This vibrant subcontinent lets the traveller experience myriad cultures, cuisines and climates. Aarti Betigeri explores what is arguably the world’s most diverse nation

ALAMY; GETTY

Opposite: a woman folds fabric in a Rajasthan sari factory.

This page: a rickshaw driver and street vendor, both Delhi

From the street, Indian cities can look very similar: a horde of small cars; auto rickshaws belching out smoke, motorbikes with a small child wedged between father, driving, and mother, riding pillion side-saddle; a handful of bicycles; pedestrians inching their way across the busy road; and, quite often, a cow or three.

But look a little deeper and you’ll find special and distinct differences between them. Down south there will be coconut vendors on every corner, lush greenery framing colonial-influenced homes, and heavy humidity. In the north, meanwhile, buildings bear the undeniable stamp of the Mughals: scalloped balconies, latticework screens (jaalis) and a year-round coating of fine dust.

Of course, India has always been about contrasts: flavours in foods, varying sari patterns and colours, regional dialects. Many of these you will find side-by-side in the Indian capital Delhi – a city that’s existed in some form for around 2,000 years. It has long been a melting pot of cultures from around India and further afield, with significant populations of Afghans, Iraqis and Chinese in the city. More recently, new waves of expats have given Delhi a sizeable population of foreigners, including French, Japanese and Africans.

All this makes for a city of gastronomic variety and the capital is a cherished foodie destination. The walled city containing Old Delhi is particularly famous for this –

Amritsar New Delhi

Ahmedabad

Mumbai

Chennai

here, you will find shabby stalls serving selections from a limited menu of sometimes just two or three dishes that have been honed over the generations and are, quite simply, superlative.

You’ll find some delicious kheer (rice pudding) cooked overnight on a wood fire at Bade Mian (opposite the Masjid Badal Beg mosque in Lal Kuan), and mutton korma at Ashok and Ashok

(42 Subhas Chowk, Sadar Thana Road). For a snack of aloo tikki – a potato patty smeared with yoghurt and sweet tamarind sauce – try Natraj’s on the main drag of Chandni Chowk. Not far from there is the original branch of Moti Mahal restaurant, thought to be the birthplace of butter chicken.

If the next pit stop on your tour of India is Ahmedabad, make the most of Delhi’s

Travelex currency tips Where can I pick up rupees?

The Indian rupee is a restricted currency, only purchased in India.

Travelex has branches in airports in Mumbai, New Delhi and Hyderabad What’s the rate?

Around £1 to 73, fluctuating only marginally in the past months How far does it go?

India is relatively cheap for Brits.

A pint costs on average 80p and a five-star hotel from £110 a night What does mean?

It is the new symbol for the Indian rupee, announced in 2010 after a national design competition

Heathrow Travel l er 31

4CORNERS; GETTY; PHOTOLIBRARY.COM

D e s t i n at i o n I N DI A

meat dishes as those living in the Gujarat state are largely vegetarian. A long-time trading hub, Ahmedabad is the home town of Mahatma Gandhi. It is known primarily for its textiles, in particular its folk arts and embroidery. It is worth travelling out to the regions of Saurashtra and Kutch if you’d like to witness the artists at work.

While it is somewhat off the tourist trail, Ahmedabad does contain some gems, such as beautifully restored old homes (some converted into small hotels), museums, such as the Calico Textile Museum, which is housed in a traditional carved wooden home, and a vast array of restaurants. The main draw is the Sabarmati Ashram, founded by Gandhi and the point where he began his famous march against the British tax on salt.

There is also the Sidi Sayed Mosque, featuring exquisite latticed screens, and the Bhadra Fort, built in 1411. An ideal time to visit is in January during the Makar Sankranti festival, when the skies are aflutter with thousands of kites.

Gujarati people are known to be inveterate travellers who have settled far and wide. One place they have headed to in large numbers is Mumbai, India’s teeming commercial heart. Mumbai is everything you have heard about and more: with around 20 million people crammed into 157sq km, it’s one of the most densely populated parts of the world. It is fast becoming a vertical city, with buildings rising taller. Look out for Antilia, recently built by India’s richest man, Mukesh

Ambani, in the Altamont Road district. At 27 storeys, it’s said to be the most expensive home in the world.

On the other end of the scale, pay a visit to the Dhobi Ghats area near Mahalaxmi train station where you will find hundreds of launderers soaping, squeezing and beating their clothes in a vast open-air set of washing pens.

After Miami, Mumbai also has one of the world’s most significant collections of Art Deco buildings, and while most are, sadly, in disrepair, there are still some fine examples of the city’s distinctive Indo-Saracenic form. Highlights include the New India Assurance Building on Fort’s Mahatma Gandhi Road, which features two towering statues flanking the entrance, and the Liberty Cinema in Marine Lines.

Mumbai also easily has the best nightlife in India. The current hotspot is Tote on the Turf, where the decor is designed to reflect the tall trees outside. Also be sure to check out Aer bar, on the rooftop of the Four Seasons hotel, and Blue Frog, the city’s best live music venue.

When city life gets too much, Mumbaikars head to the hills. About a five-hour train ride away is Matheran, with shady trees, and jaw-dropping views over the Western Ghats mountains.

Motorised vehicles are banned here – to get around, walk or mount one of the many horses for hire. The best place in town to stay is at 19th-century bungalow turned boutique hotel Verandah in the Forest.

In stark contrast to the dry, dusty desert of the north,

Opposite: The steps of Brihadeeswarar Temple, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu.

Above, top to bottom: The Golden Temple, Amritsar; Women dance the Garba at Navrati Festival, Ahmedabad

Heathrow Travel l er 33

D e s t i n at i o n I N DI A

Mumbai has a humid tropical climate – as does the southern city of Chennai, on the east coast. Formerly Madras, it is the capital of Tamil Nadu and is among the major cities in southern India.

Chennai, admittedly, doesn’t hold much obvious appeal for tourists, devoid as it is of historical buildings, but one thing it has in spades is culture and civility. People are overwhelmingly friendly and helpful. Tamils also have a rich cultural heritage when it comes to literature, music and dance, and there are many regular performances.

For many, Chennai serves as a gateway to the lush

Coromandel Coast, and the town of Mahabalipuram, a historical port dating back to the seventh century. With numerous monuments built over 200 years by the Pallava dynasty, Mahabalipuram has been granted UNESCO World Heritage Site status. Here you’ll find numerous rock-cut monuments, giant open-air reliefs, cave sanctuaries and temples in the form of chariots (rathas).

Perhaps the farthest point in India from Chennai is Amritsar in the country’s farthest north-western reach. One of the main cities in Punjab, it is the spiritual and cultural nerve centre of

WHERE TO STAY New Delhi Oberoi Delhi, oberoihotels.com Ahmedabad Le Méridien Ahmedabad, starwoodhotels.com Mumbai Oberoi Mumbai, oberoihotels.com Chennai The Park POD, Chennai, theparkhotels.com Amritsar Ista Amritsar, istahotels.com

India’s Sikhs and home to the stunningly beautiful Golden Temple, which stands in the centre of town. Surrounded by a pool of water, the temple is reflected as a honey-tinted image. It is from this pool of water that the town takes its name: Amritsar translates as ‘holy pool of nectar’.

WIN a five-night luxury break in Goa Escape to a paradise of beautiful beaches and luscious greenery with a unique history, courtesy of Heathrow, Jet Airways and Vivanta by Taj Hotels. One winner and a guest will enjoy Jet Airways flights to Goa, via Mumbai, with an in-flight menu designed by London’s Bombay Brasserie and Michelin-starred chef Yves Mattagne. Spend three nights at the state-of-the-art Vivanta by Taj, Panaji, with its views of the vibrant city and two nights in similar luxury at the 17thcentury Portuguese stronghold Fort Aguada.

See heathrow.com/competitions for full details

The Sikh holy shrine, or gurdwara, is open to all faiths, young and old, rich and poor.

It offers more than spiritual succour: there’s an affordable guest house attached that offers food to hungry visitors.

Everyone, no matter who they are and where they are from, eats the same food from the same cross-legged position on the floor of the dining hall. Later, you might find yourself doing the dishes with an investment banker on one side and a rickshaw driver on the other.

There is more to see in Amritsar, such as Jallianwala Bagh, a garden with an important history in India’s struggle for independence from British rule.

In 1919, British troops opened fire on civilians gathered there to celebrate a festival. A memorial has been built on the site, where bullet holes still pockmark nearby walls.

An hour’s drive from Amritsar is the Wagah border separating India and Pakistan where, each evening, soldiers from both sides flamboyantly perform a drill before lowering their flags. It is theatrical performance, art and military duty all in one.

India’s greatest appeal is its diversity of attractions, people, cultures and cuisines.

Whatever your reason for travelling to this vast land, one thing is certain – the first trip is never enough. HT

Air India, British Airways, Jet Airways, Kingfisher Airlines and Virgin Atlantic fly to these and other Indian destinations. For details, see heathrow.com/destinations

GETTY; HUW JONES/4CORNERS

Left: Fishing boats in Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu. Below: Vendor at Kabaleeshwarar Temple Market, Chennai

Chinawhite Restaurant London

Situated above the renowned nightclub, The Restaurant at Chinawhite provides guests with an intimate dining experience in an exquisite interior. Surrounded by modern day oriental opulence, The Restaurant serves a Pan Asian menu created by Head Chef Adam Penney, who has over 14 years experience working for some of London’s most celebrated fine dining restaurants.

Penney has put his modern twist to a classical Asian menu which includes Kung Pao chicken, sashimi tuna, tranche of wild Scottish halibut and Onglet of belted Galloway beef. The decor depicts the splendour of Asia with hand-painted Chinese wallpaper alongside wooden Balinese carved friezes.

Heading downstairs, guests enter one of London’s most timeless, famous and aspirational members’ clubs. Touches of old and new China all create distinct changes in mood and tempo as you move through the club’s 3 rooms. Whilst other venues enjoy brief moments as the new “hotspot of London”, Chinawhite is firmly established and presides alongside top nightclub brands the world over.

Contact: Email book@chinawhite.com or Call 020 7291 1480 for full information and reservations. www.chinawhite.com

D e s t i n at i o n

comment

AlexAnder mccAll Smith

Alexander McCall Smith is a prolific author, most famous for his series about Botswana’s No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency and the Sunday Philosophy club in Edinburgh. His new novel, A Conspiracy of Friends (Polygon, £16.99) is out on 5 May

I am one of those people who like airports. Yes, there can be times when the weather delays you; yes, there can be the occasional queue; yes, there might be times when the traveller might wish to be elsewhere.

However, there is another side to it. People in an airport are about to embark on a journey — or have returned from one. Those departing are full of anticipation; those who have returned have the memories of the places they have just visited. All of that is undoubtedly positive and underlines the role that places play in our lives.

The desire to explore new places is one of the things that prompts us to embark on journeys. It is also often the motivation for reading.

When we pick up a book at a bookshop or library, one of the things we are immediately interested in is its setting. Like many, I enjoy reading books set in a place I am visiting or about to visit. A visit to Italy, for example, is made all the enjoyable by the company of one of Michael Dibdin’s Aurelio Zen novels. Russia obviously requires Tolstoy or Chekhov, and a trip to Mumbai would be so much less fun if one did not have something such as Vikram Chandra’s Sacred Games to explain the complexities of that fascinating city.

Occasionally, a work of fiction with a strong sense of place has such an impact

36

on readers that it ends up having an impact on a whole city. A remarkable instance of this was John Berendt’s highly atmospheric novel, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. This tale is set in Savannah, Georgia

a way that makes the reader believe that he or she is there, and party to what is happening. In other words, it is an admission ticket to a fascinating, hidden social and geographical world.

With Berendt’s book in hand,

Ticket to write How the world shapes our favourite novels – and vice versa — a town that embodied the elegance and secrets of the American South. The book’s success was dramatic and deserved —the tale is extraordinarily well told and intensely gripping. But it is more than that: Berendt succeeds in capturing the atmosphere of Savannah in

a guidebook to Savannah is barely necessary.

So strong was the sense of place in the book, in fact, a massive number of visitors flocked to the town to experience at first hand the locale they had read about.

That no doubt helped the area’s tourist economy, but

many residents rather resented the loss of privacy.

In my own novels, I have concentrated on two places: Botswana and Scotland.

I found the former so beguiling, I was inspired to write about Mma Ramotswe of the No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency. She could live nowhere else; I wanted her to express the essence of her country — its beauty and goodness. I hope that Isabel Dalhousie, the heroine of many of my Edinburgh books, does the same thing: she is a product of that city — a mysterious, romantic place — and has qualities to match.

How does an author create a sense of place in a novel? There is no single way of doing this, but there are some things that should be avoided. An author should not write a travelogue: if we want that, we can go to a magazine or newspaper.

What is needed is a more impressionistic approach.

Just as a painter can convey a sense of place with a few strokes of the brush, so, too, can an author do that with words. A reference to one or two features of the landscape – blue hills in the distance, for example — may say as much as a whole paragraph of detailed description. A few words about a vast, empty sky puts my readers exactly where I want them to be: in the Kalahari. And when I want to paint Scotland, a reference to a white veil of rain usually does the trick. HT

Illustration Samuel Rhodes

D e s t i n at i o n

WEEKEND BREAKS

Who says a city break has to be a whirlwind of sightseeing on the well-trodden tourist circuit? Do it differently next time and see your destination from a new angle. From kayaking and ballooning to festivals and fiestas, there are authentic experiences to be had little more than an hour away

Fly me to the moon That might be a bit demanding, but as little as 70 minutes in the air will take you to great experiences all over Europe

Hot-air ballooning over the Alps Fly to: Geneva Flight time: 1hr 30

Geneva is just a 90-minute flight away from heathrow. take a further two swissefficient trains on a track that runs alongside lake Geneva, then up through the alps, and you can be in Gstaad in time for a fondue lunch and a glühwein sundowner. though it’s most famous as an exclusive ski resort, Gstaad offers a wide range

of activities and attractions all year round. the unique microclimate of its valleys offers the perfect conditions for alpine ballooning – so much so that nearby Château-d’oex hosts an international balloon festival every year. and what better way to take in the arresting beauty of the mountains than to glide over them?

if it’s an activity weekend you’re after, there’s a route for every fitness level.

From a bracing mountain hike to a leisurely botanical walk, Gstaad has it all. or take advantage of its brand-new stables with an invigorating horse ride through the countryside or a romantic carriage ride in woods at sunset. For those looking for relaxation,

D e s t i n at i o n W E E K E N D BR E A K S

Singing and dancing in the Balkans

Giles CaldiCott/axiom. rené mattes/photolibrary.Com

Fly to: sofia Flight time: 3hrs

there’s a wealth of spa facilities in the town, offering the very latest in luxuriant health and beauty treatments. prolong the r&r with a night or two in one of Gstaad’s world-class hotels, such as the Grand hotel park, which has just re-opened after a refurbishment. if your budget won’t stretch to an overnight stay, a cocktail in the alpinechic bar is a must. make time to explore Gstaad itself – the locals are fiercely protective of the heritage of their town and have maintained its traditional look with strict building regulations. even the banks and boutiques are panelled in dark wood, chalet-style. and, rather magically, at night, the town glitters with twinkling fairy lights – a gift from its most famous resident, Julie andrews. SD Heathrow Traveller stayed at Grand Hotel Park (grandhotelpark.ch).

Rooms from CHF490 (£325). Visit Gstaad Tourism (gstaad.ch) for more information about summertime activities.

still relatively untouched by tourism, bulgaria has great scenery: misty mountains, jade forests, and sparkling lakes fringed by pristine beaches. but what’s unique is its tradition of song and dance, with folk groups showcasing their regional traditions throughout the year. sofia is the place to be this spring, when you can

catch open-air performances at two international festivals (24-27 april and 28 may to 1 June). expect virtuoso displays of open-throated singing from grannies and teenagers alike and try to keep up with the old boys at the front as they dance to the 11/16 rhythms. if the accompanying bagpipes get too much,

find peace in the alexander nevsky Cathedral, with its vast gold-leaf murals. outside is a market selling artwork and pottery.

For authentic fare, visit manastirska magernitsa on Khan asparuh street. and, for drinks afterwards, you can’t go wrong with the stylish buda bar on lege street. TJ

cognoscenti (and the bestseller Eat, Pray, Love) il Gelato di san Crispino is the best in the world. it serves tubs only, cones interfering with the taste, and recipes are dictated by the season. located near the beautiful basilica di san Giovanni in laterano, both church and ice cream are worth the pilgrimage.

hidden away just off the cobbled Via dei Coronari is the Gelateria del teatro, a newcomer to rome’s ice-cream royalty. it is owned by local boy stefano and his peruvian wife silvia, who use fresh fruit bought daily from the local market mixed with generous scoops of pride and passion to create a rich artisan gelato. MZ

Eating proper gelato in Italy Fly to: rome Flight time: 2hrs 25

ice cream is almost as old as rome itself – emperor nero regularly ate mountain snow topped with fruit – and there’s no shortage of fine parlours here.

Giolitti, the granddaddy, around the corner from the pantheon, has been serving a fabulous variety of flavours since 1890. however, according to the

Words Chris beanland; sarah deeks; tanya Jackson; philip Watson; marc Zakian Heathrow Travel l er 39

Kayaking in Ireland Fly to: cork Flight time: 1hr 10

Kayaking may be more readily associated with the sea or lakes, but, in the south of ireland, there is a paddling experience that offers something significantly different: a tour around the riverside city of cork. Gliding along the meandering channels

and low-lying quaysides of the river lee, and under historic bridges, over two hours you’ll take in many of the best-known landmarks, from st fin barre’s cathedral to the opera house. the tours, organised by atlantic sea Kayaking (atlanticsea kayaking.com), also offer an entertaining and informative insight into this fiercely independent city’s rich and rebellious history, culture, folklore, songs and tall tales.

‘the river is cork’s lifeblood – it’s how the city was formed,’ says Jim Kennedy, a former irish and british kayaking champion who grew up by the lee and is the owner of atlantic sea Kayaking.

Rocking out in Norway Fly to: oslo Flight time: 2hrs

with low temperatures, high beer prices and a delicate, scandinavian sensibility, oslo may not sound very

40

‘cork has an immediate and intimate relationship with its river. you feel part of the city when you are on the water; that’s why we talk about cork being “the venice of ireland”.’ the trips are undertaken in double kayaks, and splash suits and spray decks are provided to keep you dry.

Kayakers regularly see seals, otters, herons, egrets and kingfishers. there are night-time trips, too, which conclude with creamy pints of local beamish or murphy’s stout and a hearty meal at the boardwalk bar and Grill, just metres from the launch pontoon. more adventurous still are the day-long trips that head out of the harbour and allow visitors to explore the spectacular coastline and marine life of west cork. ‘you can get on a flight from heathrow and be on the water in cork just two hours later,’ says Kennedy. ‘people seem to love that contrast, that change in perspective, that quiet magic of being on the river. it’s a culture shock in the best possible way.’ PW

rock’n’roll. but this cold city is a musical hot spot, and home to venues where pop’s ida maria, rock’s turbonegro and dance stars röyksopp and casiokids honed their trade. straddling a ford, oslo is an unlikely but beautiful setting for a weekend of music. some say the live scene here is third only to new york and london – and who are we to argue? international acts play regularly, the highlight being

D e s t i n at i o n W E E K E N D BR E A K S

vbrian sweeney/pymca. Jordi salas/ alamy. Julie loen /the Øya festival

Admiring art in Catalunya Fly to: barcelona Flight time: 1hr 45

if this month’s tate modern retrospective of the work of the catalan surrealist Joan miró captures your imagination, barcelona is the perfect place for an extraordinary art tour. first stop should be the cool, contemporary fundació Joan miró. the museum, set high on the hills above the city, holds more than 14,000 works. next up: the picasso museum, in which the

the Øya festival in august. dive bars such as mono and fisk & vilt (fish & meat), opposite each other on pløensgate, host intimate shows by new bands. bigger acts play the vast sentrum scene and rockefeller. oslo’s centre is so petite you can walk everywhere. stroll up to the old factory complex by the river to the cavernous blå, which is pure battered brick lane chic. or head for stratos, on youngstorget, a remarkable

artist’s early work is especially well represented; the barcelona museum of contemporary art, dedicated to work from the second half of the 20th century; and the fundació antoni tàpies, which is located in a remarkable early-modernist building. a €22 (£18) articket gains you access to all four centres, plus three others.

glass-box club on the top floor of norway’s highest office block, where stylish 30-somethings savour the jaw-dropping views while drinking expensive fizz. for that rock-star feeling of overnight indulgence,

barcelona is also the home of the extravagant creations of architect antoni Gaudí, and no cultural visit to the city should omit his temple, the sagrada família, or the casa milà apartment building and park Güell. two hours north of barcelona by train is the town of figueres, home to ‘the largest surrealist object in the world’ – the dalí theatre-museum. created by dalí over 13 years and opened in 1974, it not only houses the world’s finest collection of his works, but is also a testament to his eccentric imagination. in the tiny hamlet of port lligat on the northern costa brava, 25km from figueres, is dali’s house and studio. further south, 40km from figueres, in púbol, the ‘dalí triangle’ is completed by the imposing 14th-century castle he bought and restored for his wife Gala in 1969. towards the end of their marriage, surrealism seeped in: dalí could only visit her with prior written permission. PW

there’s really only one oslo hotel to choose. first hotel Grims Grenka on Kongens Gate is the apotheosis of scandic sleek – a boutique bolthole with free-standing baths, clean lines and high-quality, minimalist décor. ikea fans will want to live here forever. CB Heathrow Traveller stayed at First Hotel Grims Grenka (firsthotels.com). Rooms from 1,000 NOK (£108) per night. Go to visitoslo.com for more information.

Or you could be…

On the whisky trail head from Aberdeen (1hr 30) towards the cairngorms, stopping to sample speyside malts from Glenfiddich, the Glenlivet et al (maltwhiskytrail.com) Cheering on Le Tour catch the mountain stage of the tour de france in July as it crosses the pyrenees, near Toulouse (1hr 45) (letour.fr) Aboard a paddle steamer travel down the river elbe from Dresden (2hrs), below towering cliffs, past saxon palaces and welcoming taverns (dresden.de).

Getting over a lost love donate a memento and a description of your break-up to the museum of broken relationships in Zagreb (2hrs 15) (new.broken ships.com) Watching opera alfresco catch a free production (19-21 may) of Oresteia in Vienna (2hrs 30) – one of the highlights of its international festival (festwochen.at) Partying Spanish-style watch horse-and-carriage parades and flamenco, eat tapas and drink sherry at the spring fair in Seville (2hrs 45) (andalucia.com) Swimming in the buff strip off for a swim in the calm waters off the island of pihlajasaari, Helsinki (3hrs) (visithelsinki.fi)

For information about flights to all destinations, visit heathrow.com/destinations Heathrow Travel l er 41

D e s t i n at i o n

H E A T H R O W T R AV E L L E R P R O M O T I O N

TA G H E u E R

In association with TAG Heuer, Heathrow Traveller picks six of the best Grand Prix of the season – races where the heritage and passion of Formula 1 is celebrated, venues renowned for their glamour and atmosphere, and circuits where the great drivers have made their mark on motor racing history

Watch this race Sample the atmosphere at these great Grands Prix: from classic circuits such as Silverstone and Monte Carlo to the newest race of all, in India

TAG Heuer’s association with automobiles began a century ago, with the invention of the first dashboard chronograph – by 1958, 60 per cent of the cars in the Monte Carlo rally were equipped with its instruments. Later, in 1971, Steve McQueen sported the iconic square-faced TAG Heuer Monaco automatic Calibre 11 in the film Le Mans, along with white overalls adorned with a blue and an orange stripe – as featured on the latest Monaco, the 24 Concept, right.

But it is Formula 1 with which TAG Heuer is most strongly associated. It has been the official timer of the race series; and has had a long association with the McLaren team – at one time, its then parent company, TAG, provided the engines for the cars.

For 30 years, drivers have been TAG Heuer ambassadors.

The first, in the Seventies, was the brilliant Swiss racer Jo Siffert. Those two great rivals, Alain Prost and the late Ayrton Senna, have both worn TAG Heuer timepieces. And now McLaren’s two popular British world champions, Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button, have followed their lead.

These connections are celebrated in such watches as the beautiful bevelled square of the Silverstone, and the new McLaren MP-4-12C – a version of TAG Heuer’s classic Carrera designed to accompany the new McLaren road car.

42

Monaco Grand Prix Monte Carlo 29 May, 2011 The most iconic motor race in the world, with glamorous celebrities watching from superyachts in the harbour, and memorable landmarks such as the swimming pool, the tunnel and Casino Square. The streets provided Juan Manuel Fangio with his first World Championship win and saw the classic 1992 race when Ayrton Senna held off Nigel Mansell for the final four laps. In recent years British TAG Heuer ambassadors Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button have both won here.

British Airways flies to Nice

British Grand Prix SilverStone 10 July, 2011 What the former aerodrome in Northamptonshire lacks in glamour, it more than makes up for in party atmosphere – particularly when a homegrown driver wins, as Lewis Hamilton did in the McLaren in 2008, following the likes of Coulthard, Herbert, Hill and Mansell in the past 25 years. After the race, there’s a summer evening gig with former team owner Eddie Jordan on drums and guest appearances by the drivers. heathrow.com/ toandfrom

Italian Grand Prix Monza 11 September, 2011 The elegant, leafy town of Monza, near Milan, is home to the largest urban park in Europe, inside which is a far from tranquil location. The Autodrome Nazionale hosts the home race of the notoriously partisan Ferrari tifosi, all dressed in red and waving their prancing horse flags.

But other teams, such as McLaren often triumph here –the great rivals Alain Prost and Ayrton Senna used to swap victories in the Eighties and Nineties.

Alitalia, BA and Lufthansa flyto Milan

Singapore Grand Prix Singapore 25 September, 2011 Since its inception in 2008, the night race around the Marina Bay street circuit has fast become one of the most striking on the race calendar – an Asian rival to Monaco. The course passes illuminated landmarks such as Raffles Hotel, the Esplanade (or Durian building) and the world’s highest ferris wheel, the Singapore Flyer. The only past winners are Fernando Alonso (once in highly controversial circumstances) and Lewis Hamilton.

BA, Qantas and Singapore Airlines

For detailed airport and flight information, go to heathrow.com/destinations

From far left: The TAG Heuer Monaco 24 Concept; Ayrton Senna was so often ahead of the pack in the late Eighties and early

Nineties; his great rival Alain Prost; current McLaren stars and TAG Heuer ambassadors Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button

Indian Grand Prix

Brazilian Grand Prix

greater noida 30 October, 2011 As the Cricket World Cup has once again demonstrated, India has wildly enthusiastic sports fans. Now, for the first time, they have the opportunity to show that keenness at their own Formula 1 race. The Jaypee Group circuit near New Delhi will have an extremely long back straight allowing cars to reach up to 320mph and a banked turn to aid overtaking. Should be very exciting.

Air India, BA, Jet Airways, Virgin Atlantic

Sao paolo 27 November, 2011 The Brazilian Grand Prix has been where the drivers’ World Championship has been decided for the past six years and, given the modern scoring system, it is likely to be again.

There have been scenes of jubilation for two British drivers in recent years – TAG Heuer ambassadors Lewis Hamilton and Jenson Button in 2008 and 2009 respectively. But perhaps no driver’s exploits can eclipse the locals’ love for Sao Paolo’s greatest son, Ayrton Senna.

TAM flies to Sao Paolo

Learning a language?

Consider it child’s play.

Think about how you learnt your native language as a child. The world was your classroom, but there were no lessons. You were an active participant in the process of learning, but it all seemed like fun and games. Like child’s play.

That’s the secret to Rosetta Stone®. It unlocks your brain’s natural ability to learn a language. You’ll learn through engaging, interactive activities that encourage you to think in the new language. And just like a child, you won’t memorise or translate. You’ll have fun as you progress, and you’ll find it easy to achieve your language learning goals.

OVER 30 LANGUAGES AVAILABLE

OUR PROMISE IS YOUR

PEACE OF MIND

SIX-MONTH MONEY-BACK GUARANTEE

UP TO £50 OFF PLUS FREE DELIVERY Quote ‘BAT3’

Call 0800 005 1259 RosettaStone.co.uk/BAT3

©2011 Rosetta Stone (UK) Ltd. All rights reserved. Patent rights pending. Offer cannot be combined with any other offer. *£50 off SRP when you buy Level 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 Personal Edition box set direct from Rosetta Stone. £40 off SRP when you buy Level 1, 2 & 3 Personal Edition box set direct from Rosetta Stone. Plus free standard P&P within the UK. Offer expires 30th April 2011. Prices are subject to change without notice. Six-month money-back offer is limited to product purchase made directly from Rosetta Stone and does not include return P&P. This offer does not apply to Rosetta Stone Online or Audio Companion® purchased separately from the software product. All materials included with the product at the time of purchase must be returned together and undamaged to be eligible for any exchange or refund.

The lounge Jewel ler y

Wa t c h e s

BeSt SelleR Bulgari’s timeless and elegant pendant

Destination fashion

M a k e -u p

Fr a g r a n c e

Since its debut in 2000, Bulgari’s playfully accessible B.zero1 jewellery line has become the most successful in the brand’s history. Its seemingly cryptic name merely represents the B of Bulgari, combined with ‘01’ for ‘new beginnings’. Despite a restyling of the collection over the years, we can see why this beautifully understated B.zero1 18 carat pink gold pendant with chain, £950 (High Street £1,140), featuring the line’s iconic central spiral and double engraved logo, has remained a bestseller since 2001. Available at Bulgari stores in T3 and T5.

Words Arabella Dickie Photography Beate Sonnenberg

Heathrow Travel l er 45

fashion

TickeT To ride

Whether you’re flying to a busy city or a tropical island, heathrow’s stores offer all you need for a top trip

2

3

1

new York Don aviators and khaki kit to secure victory in this fashion-forward city’s style wars

4

6

5

7

1. Hackett ‘Velo’ jacket in stone £229.16 High Street £275 2. Versace aviators at Sunglass Hut £130 High Street £156 3. Paul Smith ‘Jake’ dispatch bag £215.85 High Street £259 4. Hackett ‘Ebury’ chinos in khaki £104.16 High Street £125 5. Vertu Constellation Quest phone at Mappin & Webb £4,916.67 High Street £5,900 6. Links of London official London 2012 weight cuff links £100 High Street £120 7. Paul Smith ‘Timur’ boots £233.35 High Street £280

46

Fashion Arabella Dickie | Illustrations Samuel Rhodes

The lounge

8

13

9

14

10

Mumbai This bustling metropolis calls for cool, lightweight pieces in hot colours, balanced by neutral accessories

Koh samui Tune in to the laid-back vibe of this island idyll and opt for floaty fabrics and flora and fauna-inspired motifs

17

15

11

12

16

8. L.K. Bennett ‘Isabella’ bag £131.92 High Street £155 9. Accessorize Parakeet ring £11.91 High Street £14 10. Kurt Geiger ‘Keio’ sandals £100 High Street £120 11. French Connection cotton dress £69.79 High Street £82 12. Paul Smith ‘Confetti Heart’ print bikini top £54.17 High Street £65 and bottoms £45.84 High Street £55

13. Reiss ‘Lani’ lock-detail wallet £91.67 High Street £110 14. Mulberry ‘Tillie’ tote £846.63 High Street £1,016 15. Paul Smith knotted draped silk dress £232.52 High Street £279 16. L.K. Bennett ‘Sabrina’ wedges £131.92 High Street £155 17. Accessorize Luxe Peony bangle set £15.31 High Street £18

Heathrow Travel l er 47

waT c h e s 1 IWC Pilot’s Chronograph automatic, stainless steel case and bracelet, £3,625 (High Street £4,150) available at Watches of Switzerland.

2 Longines HydroConquest automatic, stainless steel case and bracelet, £568 High Street price £710 available at Mappin & Webb.

3 Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duo, £5,210 (High Street £6,250), available at Watches of Switzerland.

4 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak selfwinding watch Calibre 3120, £7,680 (High Street £9,600), available at Watches of Switzerland.

5 Chanel J12 ceramic watch with diamond index, £2,645.82 (High Street £3175), available at Mappin & Webb.

6 TAG Heuer Ladies’ Formula 1 watch, steel, ceramic and diamonds, £1,080 (High Street £1,350) available at Watches of Switzerland.

7 Omega De Ville Ladymatic, red gold with leather strap, £7,050 (High Street £8,460), available at Mappin & Webb

1

4

3

48

Photography Beate Sonnenberg Styling Pop Kampol

The lounge

2

5

fLight time The range of timepieces at heathrow is a watch collectors’ dream

7

6

Heathrow Travel l er 49

cosmeTics

BLuSH HouR this season’s blushers provide an instant beauty update

50

A ‘desert island’ beauty staple, a good blusher will transform a tired-looking complexion in one sweep, hence they’re perfect post-flight. For a fresh, modern look – as seen on the spring/summer catwalks of D&G, Balmain and Sportmax – apply directly on top of the cheekbones and blend well.

How to pick the perfect shade? ‘The colour you choose should look like your cheeks when you’re naturally flushed, or after you’ve exercised,’ says US make-up artist Bobbi Brown.

Texture is key, too. The traditional choice, powders have the most staying power and, according to Brown, are the easiest to blend. ‘If you have dry skin, choose a cream blush.

Cheek and gel tints offer sheer colour and are a good choice for anyone who has oily skin.’ Layer cream and powder blushers, finishing with the powder, for a truly stay-put flush.

Words Jenni Baden Howard Photography Beate Sonnenberg Styling Pop Kampol

The lounge Advice

Feeling Flush

Face time looking for a fresh spring look? mAc has got it covered. here are the latest must-have cosmetic products at World duty Free

Ready, get set, glow…

Blushers for the perfect cheek

Givenchy Blush Gelée (£19.50) A one-shade-suits-all instant face brightener that’s perfect for summer in a dab-on formula that feels refreshingly cool on application.

Guerlain Blush 4 eclats Sculpting Blush (£31.45) (High Street £37) Click open this sleek, golden compact and sweep on a skin-illuminating mix of four harmonising blush tones.

DAnny BIrD

Diorblush in 639 Sunkissed cinnamon (£23.80) (High Street £28.01) A sophisticated blend of matte and iridescent ‘couture blush‘ tones, in a super-luxe compact.

Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge in Blushed Rose (£14.45) (High Street £17) A cinch to blend, this cream-based blush can even be used on the lips, too. A great multi-tasker.

clarins Blush Prodige in 03 (£20.45) (High Street £24.06) Available in six shades, this new compact features two tones to sculpt and highlight cheeks.

chanel Joues contraste Powder Blush in 55 in Love (£25.05) (High Street £29.48) An absolute classic: swirl on this silky blush for instant, subtle radiance.

Pure Parisian chic.

1

2

3

making eyes Perfect for travel, MAC’s new Packed to Go beauty kits come with portable sizes of the brand’s most wanted eye, lip and cheek colours. The Packed to Go Smoky Eye Shadow palette holds six shadows, to be worn alone or together. The Warm Smoky palette features Shroom – a soft shimmering beige – and complementary colours. The Cool Smoky set includes Satin Taupe (taupe with a silver shimmer) and five cooler hues, including Carbon (intense black). mac Packed to Go Smoky eye Shadow palettes (£25.50 each)

Pucker up!

There’s a new MAC lipstick on the block for make-up pros and beauty buffs to get excited about.

Combining strongly saturated colour with the light texture and vibrancy of a lip gloss, Sheen Supreme Lipstick glides onto the lips without a trace of stickiness.

The moisturising, retro-meets-modern formula comes in both creme and pearl finishes. Colours range from the palest flesh tone to the deepest burgundy, and Can’t Get Enough (pictured), is a versatile, neutral beige, is a favourite. mac Sheen Supreme Lipstick (£11.45)

the cheek of it Fabulous things come in small packages.

A little pot of make-up genius, MAC’s new Cremeblend Blush is designed to be worn either as a sheer wash of colour or a full-on flush. The secret lies in the creamy-meetsdewy texture, which can be blended easily with the fingertips to be built up until the desired intensity is achieved. The formula is free from silicones, which can leave an ashy effect on darker complexions.

Try Brit Wit – both for the name, and its wearable, dusty rose colour. mac cremeblend Blush (£14.45)

All items available at World Duty Free Heathrow Travel l er 51

fragrances

engLisH Rose Lyn Harris, the British perfumer, travels the world to create her scents

52

Words Jenni Baden Howard

Far left: a rose cultivator in the Atlas Mountains, Morocco; left: Coeur de Fleur eau de toilette

scents of home…

ALAMY; 4CORNERS

Six British fragrances to lift your spirits, available at World Duty Free

It’s not often that a Saturday job changes the course of your life.

But for Lyn Harris, British perfumer and founder of Miller Harris fragrances, that’s exactly what happened. ‘When I was at school, I worked Saturdays at a shop that sold all the classic fragrances by Chanel, Guerlain, Patou…’ recalls Harris. ‘I was so inspired. It all started there.’

Following her passion, Harris went to train at the Cinquième Sens fragrance school in Paris and prestigious Robertet perfume house in Grasse. ‘I was like a little girl, playing with all the raw materials. And you never stop learning’.

Today, Lyn is a highly respected ‘nose’ in her own right and many of her fragrances have become modern classics.

There’s something for everyone, from the fresh Citron Citron (£33.60; High Street, £42, eau de toilette) to the shamelessly feminine floral, Coeur de Fleur (£33.60; High Street, £42, eau de toilette), and the deep, woody unisex Terre de Bois (£33.60; High Street £42, eau de toilette).

Then there’s L’Air de Rien (£68; High Street, £85, eau de parfum), which

Harris created for Jane Birkin, blending oak moss, neroli, amber and vanilla.

The presentation of Miller Harris fragrances is equally distinctive. ‘The packaging is based on a series of 18th-century botanical prints,’ explains Harris.

‘For me, the designs really express the beauty and heritage of perfumery’.

No stranger to Heathrow, Harris is often inspired by her travels. A recent trip to Morocco prompted her to create a yet-to-be-released jasmine fragrance, which the perfectionist keeps tweaking.

The muse calls closer to home, too, as with the lovely Geranium Bourbon (£64; High Street, £80, eau de parfum). ‘I wanted to capture the beauty of an English rose garden after summer rain,’ she says.

What’s next? ‘I’m constantly working on new ideas and am developing two new fragrances,’ reveals Harris. ‘One is quite delicate, feminine and pretty, while the other is more powerful and sensual’.

Be prepared to start forming an orderly queue…

Jo Malone Limited Edition Tea Fragrance Blend colognes (£27.20) Try Assam & Grapefruit, Earl Grey & Cucumber or Fresh Mint Leaf – with a dash of Sweet Lemon or Sweet Milk. Not your average mug of ‘builder’s’.

Paul Smith Optimistic For Her eau de toilette 50ml (£30.40) Uplifting notes including grapefruit, raspberry, sweet pea and macaroons combine to provide instant cheer, in a spritz.

Vivienne Westwood Naughty Alice eau de parfum 50ml (£42.35) (High Street £52.94).

A playful, ‘floriental’, with key notes of powdery black rose, violet and ylang-ylang. Modern, fresh and feminine.

Agent Provocateur L’Agent eau de parfum 50ml (£40) At the heart of this heady new scent is a top-secret ingredient, featuring ‘magnetic, oriental florals‘ that complement a warm and sultry base, in a chic bottle.

Paul Smith Extreme for Women eau de toilette 50ml (£25.35) (High Street £31.73).

An elegant and sybaritic mix of fruity Italian mandarin, blackcurrant and freesia, beautifully enhanced and supported by a sensual, musky base.

Burberry London (£32.10) eau de parfum 50ml All the buzz of the capital – by day and night – bottled. Crisp, fresh top notes fuse with a sensual, floral heart and a muskywoody ‘dry-down’.

All fragrances are available at World Duty Free Heathrow Travel l er 53

city sprint Emirates business travel

Digital cameras

Qatar

Desert bloom Scott Snowden on two cities in the UAE that have their publicity engines on ‘maximum’

54

The Gulf’s best spas

Clockwise from left: Abu Dhabi’s striking skyline; the Palace Suite at the Emirates Palace; the Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan mosque in Abu Dhabi

Fifty years ago, Abu Dhabi was not much more than empty desert punctuated only by the occasional palm tree. Bedouin tribes still roamed, sustaining themselves by harvesting dates, pearls and fish. Then oil was discovered and everything changed.

Ten years later, the United Arab Emirates was born, forged from seven territories – called emirates – including Abu Dhabi and Dubai.

Contrary to what many still think, Abu Dhabi is actually the capital city of the UAE, not Dubai. In fact, mentioning the other city is a sure-fire way to upset local residents, such is the competitive nature between the two emirates.

Dubai was built at an unprecedented rate, never before seen anywhere in the world. So awesome was the expansion that the emirate’s economy couldn’t sustain it. Abu Dhabi on the other hand, is being built at a substantially slower pace. Consequently, the city is not as developed as its Emirati adversary, with some tower blocks appearing shabby.

But, most of the oil is here and so this is where the money is. So much so, that it recently had to come to the financial rescue of its rapidly expanding emirate

neighbour. Add all this up and you have an almost adolescent-like rivalry.

Both cities, however are taking giant steps to cement themselves as global centres of commerce, not only with indigenous industries like the emerging airline giants Emirates and Etihad or even the relentless refinement of fossil fuels, but as the infrastructure is slowly established, so grows the attraction for other businesses to make a base here.

Construction is obviously a critical element and it can be seen here on an unparalleled scale. A high priority is also being placed on the travel and tourism industry, with new hotels, bars and restaurants opening almost every week. Consequently, there are many interesting places to relax and dine.

Within Abu Dhabi you can find almost any international dish imaginable, except, oddly, traditional Emirati food.

Consequently, the closest thing to local cuisine is freshly caught seafood from the Arabian Gulf. One establishment that offers an impressive marine menu is the Fishmarket, located on the private beach of the Intercontinental Hotel.

Here you can scan the impressive array of seafood available and construct your

meal under the supervision of helpful staff who happily offer guidance on what flavours complement which fish.

Another outstanding aquatic eatery is Finz, which can be found at the Beach Rotana Hotel. This is also by far the best quality five-star hotel in Abu Dhabi within the price range of mere mortals.

But if unlimited opulence represents an irresistible urge, a visit to the Emirates Palace is a must. Not only is this a very, very exclusive hotel, it’s a national landmark. Inside, the décor is dazzling, with a prominent theme of gold running throughout. Regardless of whether you find the interior artistic or excessive, sitting in one of the bars sipping coffee and people watching is a pleasurable and entertaining experience.

The UAE is not a group of countries that are centuries old. However, many customs do date back many hundreds of years and efforts are being taken to focus on these and create museums and cultural centres that show what life was like just 100 years ago.

Long before the city of Dubai was even dreamt of, the only settlements to be found were Bedouin encampments, and a trip to one of the Heritage Villages

Heathrow Travel l er 55

city sprint

This picture and below: Dubai’s spectacular Burj Al Arab Hotel

HeatHrow traveller’s cHoice

stay BEACH ROTANA, ABu dHABi 10th Street, Tourist Club district rotana.com 414 luxury rooms and several five-star-class restaurants

surfers often gather as waves from the arabian gulf crash onto the soft, white sand. here there’s also a ‘strip’ full of cafés, diners and all manner of eateries that’s very popular with expats. there are no bars, however, as these must be contained within the grounds of a hotel to conform with islamic law. as the infrastructure grows and the dream that the middle east might become an epicentre for both pleasureseekers and professionals is slowly realised, the profile of these two cities increases. despite instability in other gulf areas at present, you’ll be hearing a lot more from dubai and abu dhabi. HT

GRANd MiLLENNiuM, ABu dHABi Hazza Bin Zayed Street, Al Wahda millenniumhotels.com The city’s newest and biggest hotel

eat PiERCHiC, duBAi Al Qasr Hotel, Madinat Jumeirah, Al Sufouh Road jumeirah.com Fantastic fish restaurant on a pier LE BiSTROT, ABu dHABi Le Méridien Hotel, Electra Street starwoodhotels.com Superb food and wine in Abu Dhabi’s finest French restaurant AT.MOSPHERE, duBAi The Burj Khalifa, Downtown atmosphereburjkhalifa.com Dubai’s new eatery on the 122nd floor of the world’s tallest building

Drink

SKYLiTE, ABu dHABi Yas Hotel, Yas Marina theyashotel.com A stylish bar with water views SKYViEW, duBAi Burj Al Arab, Al Sufouh Road burj-al-arab.com Stunning vistas from a new icon

A wide range of airlines fly to Dubai and Abu Dhabi. Go to heathrow.com/destinations for details 56

© marcus wilson-smith/alamy; © prisma bildagentur ag/alamy

offers some insight to what life was like before the era of engineering. located near the mouth of the dubai creek in the shindagha district, the heritage & diving Village offers a re-creation of ancient coastal village life, complete with barasti (made from palm leaves and mud) homes, an old coffee house and a small souq where you can buy handicrafts and souvenirs. however, dubai is also not without its grand and arguably gaudy attractions. the self-proclaimed seven-star hotel, the burj al arab, features a stunning 180m-high atrium, a unique ‘leaping salmon’ fountain and some striking, exuberant, interior décor. even if you can’t afford the minimum us$1,000 per night for the most modest of rooms, the skyview bar is worth a visit. despite looking like a set from the seventies series Buck Rogers in the 25th Century, it offers breathtaking views over the city and some equally breathtaking prices for drinks. dubai is undoubtedly the home of the five-star hotel. there are currently more than 60, with another 27 being built. sadly, though, construction of the colossal offshore artificial islands has significantly restricted the movement of water along the coastline. however, the hilton dubai Jumeirah resort looks out onto the city’s last unspoilt stretch of beach. here, sun worshippers and

AL BuSTAN ROTANA, duBAi Casablanca Road, Garhoud rotana.com One of the first Rotana hotels in the UAE and still one of the best

city sprint

The perfect host?

Expansive new developments could make Qatar the ultimate location to seal a deal, says Christine Toner Following the shock success of its FIFA World Cup Bid and given that it has already announced its intentions to secure a slot in the Formula 1 calendar, you could be forgiven for thinking Qatar’s biggest selling point was sport. But this country is rapidly becoming a big name in another area – corporate events.

The Qatar Tourism Board was given the task of turning Qatar into a premier events destination for the meetings, incentives, conferences and Exhibitions (micE) sector. and it has done just that. in Doha, the capital and business hub of Qatar, a purpose-built 45,000sq m exhibition and conference centre has sprung up. nearby, in Education city, the Qatar National Convention Centre is set to open in 2011, offering more than 40,000sq m of exhibition space.

But officials knew it would take more than state-of-the-art centres to attract the eyes of world business leaders to Qatar and the past few years have seen

58

a host of new hotels, restaurants and attractions opening across the country.

The aim has been to mix business practicalities with high-end luxury and one of the finest examples of this is Doha’s new Kempinski Residences and Suites, where even the meeting rooms offer spectacular views across the city and luxury dining from the hotel’s own ‘Gourmet House’ caterers.

La Cigale, another new development in central Doha, is becoming a favourite amongst business visitors. its Piano Bar and outdoor sky View rooftop lounge offer the perfect antidote to a busy day of conferences. its in-house gourmet food shop la cigale Traiteur is also a resounding hit with business guests.

The restaurant trade in Qatar is also booming. For fine dining in impressive settings, tourists and locals alike head to the exclusive Matbakh restaurant in al madina suites.

Do be aware, however, that in Qatar, alcohol can only be consumed in

international hotels. The Pearl lounge club at the Doha Marriott is a popular choice. it has an extensive cocktail menu to sample while you peruse asia live!’s dinner menu. as if all these new hotels and eateries aren’t enough to draw new visitors, Qatar officials have commissioned a new city to be constructed. Lusail City, a 35sq km waterfront complex, is located on the east coast of Qatar. Developers are hoping to establish a ‘distinctive 21stcentury icon, which celebrates the special cultural and geographical heritage of Qatar and the Gulf region’.

The site is located near a historic fort and developers are keen to preserve this ancient style, so some areas of the new metropolis have been designed to replicate traditional arabian architecture.

By 2018, officials hope to have a brand new city ready, encompassing business districts, residential areas and entertainment. at the heart of lusail will be the aptly named Entertainment City – a collection of entertainment and leisure venues that will include a snow dome, water park and aquarium.

Qatar’s tourism authority aims to present the state as a ‘trendy’ alternative for businesses seeking a conference destination, by mixing state-of-the-art technology with Qatari traditions and entertainment. music and dance play big roles in Qatari culture and tourists will be treated to open-air performances of khaliji music, a form of traditional Bedouin music.

With the number of business tourists set to grow from 0.9 million in 2009 to 1.6 million in 2014, it seems the country will succeed in its ambition to create the ultimate place to take a business trip. HT

Jon Hicks/alamy

From top: Roundabout on Doha’s Corniche; Le Crillon Ballroom in La Cigale hotel

city sprint

[ S PA S ]

Find your oasis in the desert

1 THE CHEDI

oman

To stay in a Middle East hotel is to experience the kind of extravagance you dream of during your working day.

Here’s our pick of the top hotel spas to make you really feel like royalty

FouR SEASoNS Doha

if it’s classic luxury you want on the arabian Gulf then the Four seasons Hotel and its spa in Doha were made for you. The hotel, which forms the centrepiece of Doha’s waterfront, has its own beach exclusively for guests, two restaurants, a poolside grill, a spa café and three lounges.

The whole design of the spa is based upon the concepts of feng shui and old-school glamour. fourseasons.com/doha

HABTooR gRAND RESoRT & SpA Dubai

The Elixir spa at the Habtoor Grand Resort is situated on Jumeirah Beach, a dazzling stretch of white sand and crystal blue waters. The fivestar resort includes 12 bars and restaurants and an impressive spa treatment menu. its signature treatment is the Elixir Therapeutic massage, which uses rare argan oil from morocco. grandjumeirah.habtoorhotels.com

With the muscat mountains as a backdrop, the chedi spa offers a luxury experience in a truly spectacular setting. The two-hour omani Bliss Ritual is wonderful and comprises a floral bath, massage, traditional body scrub, and foot polish.

The resort’s authentic arabian restaurant comes complete with belly dancer and live music. ghmhotels.com

3

2

4

ANANTARA SpA, EMIRATES pALACE, Abu Dhabi

The anantara spa is located within the awardwinning Emirates Palace hotel in abu Dhabi.

With a moroccan/Thai-inspired decor, the spa has seven treatment suites and an authentic moroccan Hammam facility. Within the Emirates Palace are 15 bars and restaurants, including a branch of the michelin-starred Hakkasan, serving contemporary chinese cuisine. emiratespalace.com

5

SHARQ VILLAgE AND SpA Qatar

The architects behind the magnificent sharq Village intended the spa hotel to look like a traditional Qatari home, albeit an exquisite one.

Four low-rise bungalows make up the spa, linked to the hotel via a labyrinth of winding alleys. The resort includes four eateries offering traditional and modern cuisine, from lebanese delights at al liwan, to fresh seafood at al Dana. sharqvillage.com

Several airlines fly to Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Doha and Muscat from Heathrow. For details go to heathrow.com/destinations Words christine Toner

Heathrow Travel l er 59

city sprint

1

2

5

FOCUS GROUP Point-and-click cameras have never been more proficient, as our pick reveals

3

4 1

2

3

4

5

Canon IXUS 220 HS

Panasonic Lumix TZ20

Fuji FinePix XP31

Leica D-Lux 5

Sony W560

One of the banes of compact cameras is their aptitude – or lack of – in low light. Not so with the latest member of Canon’s fêted IXUS family. The ‘HS’ refers to its impressive light sensitivity range (100-3200 ISO) that creates distortion-free photos in the gloomiest spots, and without a flash. £199

Packed with bleedingedge technology, this powerful Lumix takes some beating, not least because – as well as featuring a telescopic 16x optical zoom and a GPS chip that automatically records the location of each and every picture, it is also capable of taking photographs in 3D. £349

A glance at this robust camera’s credentials suggests it favours the outdoorsman (it boasts a GPS sensor and water-, shock- and dust-resistant qualities), but it’s equally well suited to city life. With a 14MP sensor and image stabiliser, this Dixons Travel store exclusive ensures instant results. £169

This chic portable’s big pull is its superb image quality – courtesy of a sizeable image sensor and Leica’s blissfully powerful optics.

What you can also rely on, however, are many manual settings (including a scroll wheel for setting aperture, distance and shutter speeds) and an HD video setting with autofocus. £849

For a far more reliable alternative to your camera phone, the W560 manages to squeeze several clever functions into the merest sliver of silver. You can call on face detection and anti-blur technology, plus a Sweep Panorama Mode to create super wide-angle shots at the touch of a button. £179

All products available at Dixons Travel. Drop in to one of their stores in the airport today and they’ll give you the best price available right now on these cameras. They’ll check identical products at amazon.co.uk, comet.co.uk and johnlewis.co.uk and match the best price. (Third party sellers’ prices excluded)

60

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

Book yourself a quiet seat With the best-ever noise reducing headphones from Bose “…these Bose headphones are a hugely effective solution to the rest of the world’s background noise.” ®

QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones ®

®

What Hi-Fi? Sound and Vision

Bose QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling ®

®

®

Next time you fl y, take a train or need to escape from the bustle of a busy office, put on a pair of QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones. In an instant you’ll hear less noise than ever before and more of your music and movies. With the quality sound you expect from Bose and a fi t that stays comfortable for hours, the QC 15 headphones from Bose set a new standard unmatched in the industry. ®

®

®

headphones

reduce more of the unwanted sounds around you. New materials in our proprietary-designed ear cushions establish a critical acoustical seal – helping to reduce noise further while providing a comfortable fit. Even if you’re familiar with Bose Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones you’ll immediately hear the difference these make. And if you’ve never worn a pair before, nothing will prepare you for the experience. ®

®

Upgrade to QC 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones.

We don’t think there’s another headphone or headset that can match the capabilities of the QC 15 – and invite you to judge their performance for yourself. Ask for a demonstration at the Bose store in Regent Street or Dixons Travel stores at Heathrow. You’ll be able to discover the peace, quiet and comfort they offer and enjoy your music with a clarity, detail and richness of sound you might have never experienced before.

Book yourself a quiet seat – with the best-ever noise reducing headphones from Bose. ®

The headphones that pioneered an industry are now even better.

Since inventing noise cancelling headphones over 20 years ago Bose has followed a programme of continuous research. QuietComfort 15 headphones now use microphones both inside and outside each ear cup to sense and ®

®

®

®

Available from the Bose store in Regent Street, London or Dixons Travel Heathrow T1, T3, T4 & T5 ®

or direct from Bose by calling FREE on

✆ 0800 081 3389

quoting reference 12537 Opening times: Mon-Fri 9:00am – 6:30pm Sat & Sun: 10:00am – 5:00pm.

Or for a free information pack Text ‘Bose12537’ to 64118 Visit: www.bose.co.uk/QC15 or go to your local authorised Bose dealer ®

©2011 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Registered in England no 1187672. Registered Office: Bose Ltd, 1 Ambley Green, Gillingham Business Park, Gillingham, Kent ME8 0NJ. Quote reprinted with permission: What Hi-Fi?

D E pa rt u r E s Awards

Airport News

Heathrow Express

Food & Drink

A Day in the Life

© JONATHAN BARTON/geTTy

Taking to the road on two wheels is just one of the ways that Heathrow staff raise money for good causes

giving well How Heathrow staff help charity

From a trek through the Amazon jungle to a bike ride the length of Britain, Heathrow’s staff really went the extra mile to raise funds for Help for Heroes, its 2010 Charity of the Year. The

hundreds of employees who took part amassed £205,000 for members of the Armed

Forces wounded in active service. Revellers at Heathrow’s Charity Ball alone contributed £36,000, and, in a talent contest, the BAAnd rocked their way to a win and swelled the coffers by £8,000. A staggering £16,000 was donated by sponsors of one member of

staff who walked 100 miles, beating a 45-gallon drum.

Heathrow’s 2011 charity is Macmillan Cancer Support, which, for 100 years, has been an invaluable source of practical, emotional and financial help, not only for patients, but their carers, families and communities.

Heathrow Travel l er 63

hea throw ne ws

keep up to date wIth the aIrport

A new mini terminal, green initiatives and how to stay on top of travel updates

a new famIly memBer Welcome to T5C

heathrow prepares for the olympIcs The opening of Terminal 5’s ‘mini-me’ satellite building, T5C, is set to bring a smoother journey to even more passengers. The satellite has 12 extra aircraft stands, so more flights will be met directly by an air bridge, meaning far fewer coach transfers. The £300m investment brings to life another terminal building modelled on the original design of Terminal 5, with its light-filled space and iconic roof design.

With brand new shops and an exclusive exhibition, the airport is excitedly gearing up for 2012’s premier sporting event In 2012 Heathrow is looking forward to welcoming hundreds of thousands of athletes and fans arriving for the London Olympics. With under 500 days to go, Olympic fever has hit the airport. In March, the oflcial mascots, Wenlock and Mandeville, joined Olympic athletes including Tom Daley and Phillips Idowu, to open the UK’s flagship Olympic store in Terminal 5, giving fans the chance to buy such

souvenirs as Team GB merchandise designed by Stella McCartney for Adidas.

The London 2012 buzz will soon spread across the airport with Olympic shops in Terminals 1, 3 and 4,as well as works of art to honour Olympic athletes at the Terminal 5 Expo Gallery.

Visitors at Heathrow now have the chance to get up close with Britain’s top Olympians as they are immortalised in works of art.

The High Performance Art Exhibition features sportthemed art by leading and emerging British artists, showcasing the best of British culture and providing an unexpected dimension to an airport terminal.

There are 50 works of art, which you can actually buy and have delivered direct to your home. All the proceeds will be split between the artist and the British Paralympic Charity.

EXPRESS By PHONE Heathrow Express is the first UK train company to launch a BlackBerry and Android app, letting users buy and receive tickets on their phone, and offering live service updates. heathrowex press.com /mobileapp.

64 64

Illustration Samuel Rhodes

D e pa r t u r e s

C A L L I N G A L L T E A C H E R S O n 1 7 M a y, t h e B r i t i s h A i r w a y s C l u b a t H e a t h r o w w i l l h o s t a f r e e r e c r u i t m e n t d a y, h e l p i n g H e a t h r o w ’ s s c h o o l s s o u r c e t o p t e a c h i n g t a l e n t . To r e g i s t e r a t t e n d a n c e , h e a d t e a c h e r s s h o u l d v i s i t i d a y. c o . u k .

news In BrIef

gives passengers free online access. Since 2008, the Zurich team has helped more than 400,000 people passing through Heathrow. heathrow app Following its initial release last year, there has been further development on the Heathrow app. The new re-release has even better flight information, terminal maps and 12 months’ worth of airline timetables. It’s available now to Android, Vodafone, iPhone and BlackBerry users – you can

download the Heathrow app free from your regular app store.

Zurich helppoint Need quick access to the internet in Terminal 1?

Those experts in international insurance, Zurich Financial Services, ofier a HelpPoint that

facebook As an extension of Heathrow’s successful Twitter presence, the airport has launched its very own Facebook page. Talk to the Heathrow team, get travel advice and receive airport special ofiers. Visit facebook.com/ heathrowairport.

a greener heathrow Thinking about tomorrow, today

At Heathrow, every efiort is made to minimise the airport’s impact on the environment. With more than 320 difierent firms on-site, a coordinated efiort is essential. So, the Heathrow Sustainability Partnership has been created, a group of companies working hard to make the airport greener.

From building firms to airlines, those in the partnership are committed to improving the sustainability of their business at Heathrow.

One of the airport’s ongoing efiorts is to send materials from old buildings

and runways for recycling, rather than to landfill.

In demolishing the 55-year-old Terminal 2 to make way for the new terminal, the airport aims to recycle more than 95 per cent of demolition waste – including concrete, metal, plastic and timber. Runways use especially high-quality concrete and when these surfaces are replaced, the concrete is sent to an ofi-site facility where it is recycled and reused in new surfaces.

To read thoughts on a greener Heathrow – and to voice yours – visit heathrowairthought.com

Heathrow Travel l er 65

D e pa r t u r e s

A dAy in the life Of heAthrOW AirPOrt Meeting multiple james Bonds or chatting to families on holiday, no day is ever the same for heathrow’s security officers, as one of them reveals I’m one of about 200 security officers at Heathrow Terminal 4. I started working at the airport nine years ago, because the shift work fitted well with looking after my three children.

My job has routine to it, and I perform very similar tasks every day – checking boarding passes, operating the scanners, and searching passengers in security. But I have to stay completely focused – I’m very aware of the responsibility that comes with my position.

Having said that, not all of my working day is so serious. I enjoy helping people, and I love a chat. It’s nice to speak to passengers because they come from all over the world, and are all travelling for different reasons. In an international terminal such as ours, passengers can be flying to Mauritius for a holiday, visiting New York for shopping or even travelling to Tokyo for business.

I was shy about questioning things before I took this job on, but I’m more

Sarah McConnell Security officer, Heathrow T4

assertive now. Nine years down the line, I know all the regulations about what people can and can’t take on board with them. But the Department for Transport’s list is long, and the regulations can change.

The hardest thing is when I search someone’s bag and find gifts they’re not allowed to take in hand luggage, such as jars of jam or chutney (because they count as liquids), or letter openers, or a mum with Fruit Shoot

drinks for her kids. As a parent myself, I feel for them.

Sadly, the rules are the rules.

But there are usually ways around a problem, like checking a bag in. I want to help find solutions. I always want to be a friendly face.

We see all kinds of people at Terminal 4 and it’s always exciting when celebrities come through. I remember Sean Connery being very tall and having a real presence.

Pierce Brosnan too. They were both incredibly attractive and very charming. It must be the Bond thing. Some just want to slip by in a hat and be unnoticed, but they all have to pass through security.

Ordinary people can be just as memorable. One time, a little Mexican girl came through with her mother, looking suspiciously bulky.

When I asked she explained she had cash in her leotard.

She thought a leotard was a safer place to keep her spending money than a bag.

There is always something interesting going on – no day is ever the same. HT

b u y a n d s e l l Tr a v e l e x h a s 14 b u r e a u x d e c h a n g e a t t h e a i r p o r t . n o t o n l y ca n you buy a nd sel l over 50 c u r renc ies but it of fer s a com m i ss ion-f re e ser vice for amounts over £100. One more thing to save time when you travel 66

Photography Sam Christmas Words Maria Yacoob

D e pa r t u r e s

2

3

Allow plenty of time

the clear plastic bag

dress for express

Relax before your flight by arriving on time.

For long-haul flights, that’s three hours in advance, two hours for European and 90 minutes for UK/Ireland flights. Remember that you can pick up currency, grab a bite to eat and get online in the departure lounge, so it’s worth arriving in time.

You can pick up a plastic bag at the airport – just make sure your liquids, pastes and gels are 100ml or under and fit easily in the bag when closed. Don’t leave that bag in your hand luggage – actually show it to the security guys as you pass through. Remember you can buy a drink or toiletries after security.

1

Avoid your clothing and hand luggage setting off the security detectors. Trousers that don’t need a belt and shoes that slip on and off will give you less to fumble with when entering the departure lounge. Also, make sure you pop all your coins, mobile phone etc in your hand luggage.

6 tipS for a SMoother journey Our guide to navigating airport security and avoiding common time-consuming hurdles

5

6

have your laptop ready

food to go

Baby on board

Take your laptop or portable DVD player out of your bag in advance – and not just out of the bag, but out of its sleeve too. Your camera will be fine in your hand luggage.

Tests by the British Photographers’ Liaison Committee have given the airport’s x-ray inspection system the all-clear.

You can take most solid food, be it wedding cake or sandwiches (here the small amount of butter, mayo, Marmite or whatever you fancy doesn’t count as paste). But food with sauces (or soups!) will need to be in a 100ml container in your plastic bag. Yes, a cheese sarnie might be wiser!

4

Travellers with babies may have to open and taste baby food and milk. Save time and avoid having to open sealed containers by waiting until you clear security to pick up baby food in the lounge. For peace of mind, reserve ready-to-drink formula in advance from Boots at heathrow.com/reserve.

Heathrow Travel l er 67

r e f re shment s

haunts for the hungry traveller

In need of a bite to eat before you depart? The Journey Team is on hand to help you get the most out of Heathrow’s fantastic food and drink offering simply follow the coloured lines to discover Nobue Hoshide’s recommendations for food and drink in whichever Heathrow terminal you’re travelling through

t1

est Indulge in authentic Italian fare with the backdrop of runway views at Est. A selection of fresh, Mediterranean-style dishes, including antipasti, pizza and pasta, is available.

Nobue Hoshide Heathrow Journey Team My job is to ensure that passengers can navigate the airport as easily as possible. I’m on hand to answer questions and provide a friendly international welcome in English, Japanese, Italian or French. When it comes to eating at the airport, I would say that your experience doesn’t have to be a mad dash to the gate – we have so many restaurants and bars at the airport with quiet nooks to relax in. Whether you are after sushi for breakfast, something British-inspired for dinner or a glass of wine, here are my tips for making the most of your journey from check-in to plane.

t3 chez gerarD For a tranquil retreat from the bustle of the departure lounge, make haste to brasserie Chez Gérard and feast on the best steak frites and garlic snails this side of Paris.

arrive

t4 Dining street Turn left after security to find the new Dining Street restaurant. It offers the best of British fare – tuck in to Mother’s Roast of the Day or sample a classic afternoon tea.

t5

Key: terminal 1 terminal 3 terminal 4 terminal 5

68 68

v Bar In the mood for an exotic cocktail?

Shimmy over to the stylish V Bar and sip on either an alcoholic or non-alcoholic option, accompanied by some tapas.

Words Arabella Dickie illustration Samuel Rhodes

D e pa r t u r e s

stir crazy From skinny cappuccino to double macchiato, Caffè Nero’s mad about coffee take off

1,026

BriDge Bar Drop your bags and unwind with a glass of wine at the Bridge Bar and Eating House. Need a kick-start to your day? Swiftly served cooked breakfasts are also on the menu.

the number of pints of milk used each day across Caffè Nero’s four Heathrow stores

take off caviar house & Prunier Before reaching your gate, dine in style with Prunier caviar and Balik smoked salmon from the Caviar House & Prunier. Savour with a glass of wine from the award-winning menu.

take off amt Those en route to gates 1-6 should make a pit stop at AMT Coffee for a quick pick-me-up.

Feel 100 per cent virtuous as you drink their 100 per cent Fairtrade coffee.

take off Wagamama Watch planes land and take off as you grapple with chopsticks at award-winning Japanese chain Wagamama, which serves noodles, rice dishes and the like.

See page 73 for a list of your eating and drinking options

Renowned for its relaxed coffee-house atmosphere, Caffè Nero prides itself on the rich, robust quality of its espresso-based coffee – an Italian blend of seven bean varieties. An integral part of the ambience is the dedication of its well-trained staff, ensuring every visit is a pleasure.

Stores are located in Terminals 1, 4 and 5. Here are some stats to conjure with as you enjoy the barista’s best shot.

110 the average number of beans in each Caffè Nero espresso

40% the percentage of produce and packaging recycled

465 the number of Caffè Nero stores worldwide

4,142 the average daily number of customers served at Caffè Nero’s four Heathrow stores Heathrow Travel l er 69

a i rport map s

Find your way around the airport

There are over 240 retailers at Heathrow, so with so much choice on offer, you might need a helping hand finding shops, eateries and, when it’s time to fly, your gate. Walk this way…

Terminal 1

70

D e pa r T u r e s

Terminal 3

Terminal 4

Subject to change. Many great new stores opening soon

Heathrow Travel l er 71

Terminal 5

Terminal 5b

72

D e pa r T u r e s

Directory

Navigate your way around some of the best fashion, food and travel services that the world’s busiest airport has to offer with this A-Z guide

Shopping 2012 London Store Accessorize Bally Barbour Beauty Studio Be Relax Spa Boots Burberry Bulgari Cartier** Cath Kidston Chanel Chocolate Box Clarks Cocoon Collection David Clulow Dior Dixons Travel Ermenegildo Zegna*** Escada Etro** Fat Face French Connection Glorious Britain Gucci Hamleys Hackett Harrods** Hermès HMV Hugo Boss JD Sports Jimmy Choo Jo Malone Kurt Geiger Links of London

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b

T1 Shopping LK Bennett Loewe/Valentino Longchamp MAC Mappin & Webb Montblanc** Mulberry Nokia Omega Paul Smith Paul Smith Globe Prada Ralph Lauren Menswear* Reiss Roberto Cavalli Rolling Luggage Salvatore Ferragamo** Simply Chocolate Smythson Sunglass Hut Swarovski** Ted Baker The Pen Shop The Perfume Gallery Thomas Pink Tie Rack Tiffany & Co Timberland Tumi Versace*** Watches of Switzerland WHSmith WHSmith Books World Duty Free World of Whiskies

T3 T4 T5 T5b

FooD & Drink AMT coffee Apostrophe Bagel Street Bridge Bar & Eating House Caffe Italia Caffe Nero Caviar House & Prunier Caviar House & Oyster bar Chez Gerard Costa Dining Street Restaurant EAT Est Garfunkels Giraffe Harlequin Alehouse Huxleys Bar & Kitchen Itsu JD Wetherspoon Pret A Manger

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b

Gordon Ramsay Plane Food

Starbucks Tin Goose VBar Wagamama Yo! Sushi

currency American Express Thomas Cook Travelex

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b

ServiceS Boingo Wireless Internet Shoeshine Spit and polish

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b

* Opening May ** T3 store opening 16 April *** T3 store closed from 8 April Subject to change. Many great new stores opening soon

pick me up Whether you want to sit in and relax, or simply devour a quick bite a n d d r i n k o n-t h e - g o, why n o t p o p i n to We at h e r s p o o n e x p r e s s i n T 1 o r T 5?

A h e a r t y, g r e a t v a l u e b r e a k f a s t a w a i t s e a r l y b i r d s w i t h g r u m b l i n g s t o m a c h s .

Heathrow Travel l er 73

Final call

A time of icons

Below: Fans crowd the Europa Building’s viewing platform to see the Beatles off on their 1964 tour of the USA

On 16 December 1955, Queen Elizabeth II opened Heathrow’s new Europa Building, which later came to be known as Terminal 2.

The Europa Building was Heathrow’s original terminal, designed by Frederick Gibberd, the architect and pioneer of British Modernism.

Used to working within spatial confines, Gibberd created his airport complex on a 158-acre site. The terminal took five years to design and build, and it was worth the wait.

The new air-conditioned terminal was a far cry from

74

the makeshift huts and marquees to which passengers had grown accustomed. The spacious building had glass-walled footbridges, restaurants, lounges and cocktail bars. It had shops, car hire agencies, a post office, nurseries and two hairdressing salons.

By 1956, the long viewing platform, with a garden and a commentator describing the airfield movements, had become one of London’s most visited attractions. It drew more people than Madame Tussauds and the Tower of London, and many people still hold fond

memories of family days out to watch the planes.

In 1964, it was at full capacity as The Beatles passed through the airport on their way to America.

The crowning glory in this new airport complex was Gibberd’s new 122ft air traffic control tower.

From the top floor the view stretched from Windsor Castle to Battersea Power Station.

Gibberd’s building was designed to handle 1.2 million passengers a year.

But by 2009, Terminal 2’s passenger traffic had reached 8.5 million a year

and Heathrow’s original terminal had aged significantly. In November of that year, after five decades of service to 316 million passengers, it closed its doors to make way for a new home for the airlines of the Star Alliance, designed to handle 20 million passengers a year.

The legacy of Frederick Gibberd’s Europa Building will live on, by setting standards in state-of-theart design and also literally, as the materials from the previous terminal are recycled to create new works of architecture. HT

Words Tanya Jackson

HEATHROW ARCHIVES AND COURTESY OF ALAN GALLOP’S TIME FLIES: HEATHROW AT 60 (SUTTON PUBLISHING, £20)

Opened more than half a century ago, the cutting-edge building that became Heathrow’s Terminal 2 has enjoyed an illustrious history. Its legacy will live on in its successor

HERITAGE COLLECTION AVIATION BR 03-92 42 mm VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm Natural Leather strap

Information: Bell & Ross UK +44 207 096 08 78 . information@bellross.com . e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

www.omegawatches.com/orbis

HOUR VISION. THEIR VISION. Daniel Craig and OMEGA support ORBIS International and its Flying Eye Hospital which leads the fight against preventable blindness.

The OMEGA Hour Vision Blue wristwatch honours this remarkable organisation which delivers eye care to some of the world’s most remote and developing regions.