Heathrow Traveller Summer 2011

t h e o f f i c i a l m a g a z i n e f o r h e at h r o w | S u m m e r 2 0 1 1

beSt of britiSh a celebration of all that is bright about blighty

capital idea INSIDERS’ guIDE to LoNDoN magnificent malt oN thE whISky tRaIL IN ScotLaND alexander mccall Smith SayS wELcomE plUS: NEw zEaLaND + gERmaNy foR buSINESS + faNtaSy ISLaNDS + faShIoN foR LESS

TAYLOR BAGS

H E A T H R O W T E R M I N A L S 1, 3, 4, 5

MULBERRY.COM

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This issue we celebrate the Best of British – as Heathrow Airport does every day of the year.

Whether you’re visiting from abroad or returning home, you won’t miss the buzz in the air. The upcoming Olympics helps: there’s news of Heathrow’s involvement in London 2012 inside.

Sports fans are also thinking of this year’s big sporting event – the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand: we feature a guide to the host nation.

Pride in Britain also comes from knowing how much it has to offer visitors and residents alike. One of our greatest current exports, novelist Alexander McCall Smith, touches on this in his column. And our guide to London’s Secret Treats reveals amazing places and attractions that even a lot of natives will find surprising.

Finally, we can boast fantastic British products with a heritage of excellence: whether it’s Floris perfumes or Speyside malt whiskies.

Read their stories, then grab a bargain in Heathrow’s wide range of shops.

Chris Madigan, Editor

e Shopping & Travel info

All flights detailed are direct routes from Heathrow, except where specified.

Throughout the magazine we’ve shown, where relevant, the Airport Price together with the High Street price*.

Where you see products at an Airport Price, all passengers, flying to all destinations, can buy at these prices, apart from selected liquor lines which are only available to those flying outside the EU. Passengers travelling to final destinations outside the EU may be requested to pay tax on purchases on arrival at your destination and/or if you bring them back with you when returning to the UK. Go to heathrow.com for the most up-to-date shopping information and contact details for individual stores.

All prices correct at time of going to press. Some products featured in this magazine are of limited availability in airport stores. Contact stores in advance to check availability.

To keep track of the WorldPoints you can earn at the airport, go to baaworldpoints.com.

publiShed by ShoW media lTd 020 3222 0101 www.showmedia.net

GETTy IMAGES; 4CORNERS

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Editor Chris Madigan Art Director Martin Perry Associate Editor Arabella Dickie Designer Hillary Jayne Picture Editor Juliette Hedoin Sub Editors Sarah Evans, Tanya Jackson, Gill Wing Contributing Editor Henry Farrar-Hockley Beauty Editor Jenni Baden Howard

Editorial Director Joanne Glasbey Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth Heathrow Marketing Julia Gillam, Amardeep Chahil For advertising enquiries: Julia Pasaron 020 8741 8967 Colour reproduction FMG wearefmg.com Printing Southern Print wyndeham.co.uk

* Savings in World Duty Free stores are compared to the notional UK high street price, this being the average of prices from a survey of several high street stores. Details of these stores and individual prices are available on request.

Heathrow Traveller is published on behalf of BAA Airports Ltd by Show Media Ltd, 1-2 Ravey Street, London EC2A 4QP. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is prohibited without prior written permission of the copyright owner. No responsibility will be accepted for any errors or omissions, or comments made by writers or interviewees.

Views expressed are not necessarily the views of BAA Airports Ltd, and services and goods advertised are not necessarily endorsed by BAA Airports Ltd. All prices and information correct at time of going to press.

Where there are price variations by terminal or location the highest is shown.

ENTER A DIFFERENT WORLD IN ALL HEATHROW TERMINALS

+44 (0)20 7730 1234 harrods.com

C o n t e n t s 48

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City sprint Tips and accoutrements for the business traveller

News from the airport and around the world 11 Travel news exciting new services at Heathrow; new (airborne) roads to Morocco; and the countdown to the olympics 18 Entertainment Broadway and Glee star Idina Menzel shares her favourite books and CDs; plus the latest game and film reviews 20 Gourmet travel exquisite seafood and more on the west coast of sweden 22 Drinks on the speyside malt whisky trail in the scottish highlands

Destination This season’s big travel ideas 26 The big picture Dramatic, brave surfing on a huge wave in Hawaii 28 Comment author alexander McCall smith considers the cultural expectations of travel, and what the British have to offer 30 Postcard from… england rugby team vicecaptain nick easter, who takes us on a tour of Las Vegas

33 Secret London our five-page alternative guide to the city’s quirkiest bars, restaurants and entertainment venues, plus unusual events and the best day trips out of the city 38 Island retreats For crystal-clear waters, shimmering beaches and undeniable luxury, the ultimate destination is a beautiful island resort 40 New Zealand this year’s rugby World Cup host nation also happens to be the ultimate adventure playground. explore its breathtaking mountains, lakes and treetops, taking in the prolific wildlife along the way

the lounge Desirable deals at Heathrow 45 Ear candy the studio-quality ‘Beats’ headphones from Dr Dre 46 Ticket-only fashion greet the heat looking gorgeous in Crete, san Diego and Buenos aires 48 Sunglasses Complete your look with a pair of fabulous classic shades 50 Cosmetics tip-top streak-free bronzers that banish all memories of orange tans forever 52 Fragrance a family affair: the legacy of London perfumers Floris

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Departures Life at the airport and key Heathrow information 63 Art of a diver anew statue of olympian tom Daly at terminal 5 64 Airport news the latest developments at Heathrow, and how to get the most from your journey 66 A day in the life… of an animal attendant at the airport 68 Food & drink tips from a member of Heathrow’s Journey team on where to eat with your children at the airport 70 Maps & directory getting around the terminals 74 Final call they go unnoticed, but signs at Heathrow have quite a history

Beate sonnenBerg; 4Corners

travel Journal

54 Frankfurt the playful evolution of this business city extraordinaire 58 Düsseldorf How a regenerated harbour has given the german city a cool edge on business 59 Bavarian beer gardens the best spots in and around Munich to enjoy a refreshing post-meeting beer in the sun 60 Easy PC the new generation of tablets gives portable computing a new, glossy dimension

Beyond Miraculous

Crème de la Mer

The original , born from the sea. Skin is immersed in moisture, sensitivities look soothed, radiance restored with the legendary powers of the Miracle Broth.™ Today. Tomorrow. Forever.

Visit the La Mer counter in Heathrow Terminal 3, Terminal 4 or Terminal 5 for a personalised skincare consultation and a complimentary deluxe sample*. *One per customer please, while supplies last

T r av e l Journal

H e aT H r o w T o . . .

MOROCCO / tOROn tO / lyOn / ba RCelOna SWeDen/ kOR e a / SCOt t ISH HIGHl a nDS P l u s b R O a D Way S ta R I D I n a M e n Z e l / O ly M P I C n e W S / b R I t I S H S P I R I t S

T r av e l J o u r n a l

d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s

events

c u l t u r a l o ly m p i a d / b a r c e l o n a c o o k i n g / l o u n g e o f l u x u r y

countdown to 2012 sport And the Arts join forces Culture, sport and education are key pillars of the Olympic Games. There’s just under a year to go until the London 2012 Festival opens, marking the finale of the 12-week Cultural Olympiad, which takes place across the UK. This unique celebration of talent will feature leading artists, musicians, film and theatre directors and writers from around the globe, including Toni Morrison, Plan B, Olafur Eliasson, Deborah Warner, Miranda Hart, Mike Leigh, Leona Lewis and Damon Albarn. london2012.com/festival

pod fAst revolutionAry new trAnsport

the Art of cooking shop with the chef, bArcelonA

lounge wizArd heAthrow’s new hAven of peAce

The future is here. Heathrow pod is a driverless (that’s right, driverless), battery-powered vehicle that can carry up to four people and their luggage along a dedicated guideway between Terminal 5 and the T5 Business Car Park in just five smooth minutes. And there are 21 of the comfortable pods, available on demand. If you’d like to experience an eco-friendly, enjoyable transfer, just hop aboard at one of the three pod stations.

Most top chefs will emerge from the kitchen to greet diners. Roberto Holz, chef of the Hotel Arts Barcelona’s pair of Michelin-starred restaurants, takes it further. On 4 October, he will take 10 guests to the Mercat de la Boqueria to discuss the culture of Barcelona’s cuisine and share some culinary secrets.

Later you will prepare the food in the Arola restaurant, before a relaxed lunch. €200, hotelartsbarcelona.com

Terminal 3 has just become even more welcoming with the addition of the No 1 Traveller lounge. With a bar and bistro area, games rooms, family rooms and bedrooms on offer, it’s a haven for weary passengers and inexhaustible children. Take a seat by the runway window with a glass of champagne or book in for a treatment at the No 1 Spa. A lounge pass can be purchased online or on the door, whichever ticket you have. baa.com/lounges

british Airways and iberia fly to barcelona

f l a g i t u p l o o k o u t f o r t h e n e w u n i o n J a c k- p a i n t e d c a r r i a g e s o n t h e h e a t h r o w e x p r e s s t r a i n s e r v i c e . s p o n s o r e d b y vo d a f o n e , t h e d e s i g n i s made up of 600 country names, highlighting the network ’s global network 12

SOLO SyNDICATION

n e w s f rom a rou n d t h e g l obe

T r av e l J o u r n a l

d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s

news

s pr i ng s c e n t s / kor e a tou rs / de s ig n e r photo e x h i bi t ion

Korea moves trips to south and north

[t r a v e l p h o t o g r a p hy]

ey e i n t h e s k y The view from the window seat, captured beautifully As a frequent traveller, British designer Paul Smith is always on the look-out for unusual items to stock in his Paul Smith Globe outlet at Heathrow’s Terminal 5, alongside his fashion collections. From 23 August to 20 September the shop’s

art wall is displaying these breathtaking aerial photographs by Alan Aboud.

The series, Above All Else, captures beautiful moments of airborne serenity.

Each photograph is available to buy in the Paul Smith store.

Wild BlueBell springtime in a Bottle Jo Malone’s latest fragrance, Wild Bluebell, evokes the nostalgic, sweet scent of the sapphire flowers that carpet British woodlands in springtime.

A green and floral top note of fresh bluebell and heady clove combines with classic lily of the valley, jasmine, white amber and musk. Inspired by fairytales, the scent evokes an otherworldly mystery and whimsy with a contemporary twist. Jo Malone

has made a donation to the Woodland Trust in order to protect the dwindling numbers of English bluebells, currently under environmental threat.

The two Koreas are fascinating – and vastly different – places to visit. On the Go (onthegotours.com) offers a selection of tours of South Korea: in nine or 12 days you can explore grand palaces in the capital, Seoul; serene mountains and lakes in the Danyang region; rich green tea plantations on the ‘treasure island’, Namhae; and the UNESCO-protected temples of Bulguska, near Busan. Alternatively, flying via Beijing, you could visit the DPRK in 2012 for the 100th birthday of President Kim Il-Sung (who still holds that position despite having died in 1994). Regent Holidays (regent-holidays.co.uk) offers a tour of monumental sights, including Kumsusan Memorial Palace, the vast Kim Il-Sung Square and a 65ft statue of the ‘dear leader’. asiana airlines & Korean air fly to seoul; air China & Ba fly to Beijing for pyongyang

a w e e k i n p r i n t J o u r n a l i s t a n d a u t h o r o f M a n a n d B o y a n d T h e F a m i l y W a y, to n y p a r s o n s r e c e n t l y s p e n t a w e e k l i v i n g a t h e a t h r o w a i r p o r t . h e i s s o o n to publish a book based on his experiences 14

T r av e l J o u r n a l

d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s

hotels

h i g h - t e c h wat c h e s / n e w f l i g h t s t o m o r o c c o / c l u b r o o m

... n e w s ...

[d e s t i n a t i o n f o c u s]

moro cco on a rol l With more bmi flights to more cities, the North African jewel is truly alluring

THe THRee Bells ROOM AT THe Inn The homely Three Bells restaurant in Terminal 3 has undergone a revamp with its new private Club Room – perfect for intimate dinners or meetings. The room, quirkily decked out in bright stripes and bold prints, can seat 14 guests for meetings and 20 for dinner, with a menu of British fare. For other events, such as wine tasting, private quizzes, or murder mystery evenings, contact clubrooms@geronimo-inns.co.uk

On THe RAdAR THe lATesT WAy TO Tell THe TIMe Just when you were wondering how watches would evolve next, Bell & Ross unveils its latest timepiece, which pays homage to the icon of navigational technology. The face of the BR 01 Red Radar is made up of three concentric red discs that represent hours, minutes and seconds. As time passes, a radarstyle beam sweeps across each circle on the screen. The BR 01 is available at £3,000 (£3,600 High Street).

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‘We’ll always have Paris’, intones Humphrey Bogart’s Rick to Ingrid Bergman’s Ilsa in Casablanca.

Well now we can have Casablanca and Marrakech, direct from Heathrow.

Launched earlier this year, bmi makes four direct weekly flights to Casablanca and three to Marrakech, to be increased to five from 1 October.

Marrakech, known as ‘the Red City’, is set against the backdrop of the high Atlas Mountains, where Arabic and Berber cultures combine with a French influence. At the city’s heart is the Djemaa el-Fna, the busy main square, framed by a labyrinth of alleyways, courtyards and cul-de-sacs housing traditional souks and fashionable restaurants. Reliably luxurious hotels that have recently opened include Four Seasons and L’hôtel Mansour. But smaller boutique hotels offer a more intimate experience.

Recommended in Marrakech’s medina is five-star hotel Villa des Orangers, a Relais & Châteaux property. This small palace is a tranquil retreat, and

its French owners ensure its style and elegance, in both design and cuisine.

Casablanca, on the Atlantic coast, is not only Morocco’s largest city and port, but the largest in the Maghreb.

It also boasts some Hispano-Moorish art deco and modernist gems, an example of the latter being the vast, ornate Hassan II Mosque.

The Hôtel & Spa Le Doge is a wellpreserved art deco building. One of the best boutique hotels in the city and another member of Relais & Châteaux, it is housed in a Thirties building in the centre. While there, visit the stylish Rick’s Café, near the port.

From 31 October, bmi will fly direct to the south-west coastal resort of Agadir twice weekly. Recently, bmi launched a new mobile website and became the first British airline allowing passengers to book and pay for flights using their smartphones.

Here’s looking at you, kid. flybmi.com; relaischateaux.com bmi and Royal Air Maroc fly to Casablanca. bmi flies to Marrakech and, from Oct, Agadir

Words Joanne Glasbey

BOSS Black

HUGO BOSS AG Phone +49 7123 940 www.hugoboss.com

T r av e l J o u r n a l

e n t e r ta i n m e n t

i d i n a m e n z e l ’ s t r av e l l i n g m u s i c / b o o k s / d v d s / g a m e s

Since becoming a mother [Idina has a two-year old son, Walker] I’ve come to regard a few hours on a plane as quite a salvation!

Lately I’ve been reading a lot on journeys. I’ve just finished a book called The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks, by Rebecca Skloot. It’s a true story about a black woman who got cancer in the Fifties.

The cells taken from her in a biopsy were then used for scientific research, generating millions of dollars.

But her family was never told, and remained too poor even to afford healthcare.

I’m looking forward to performing in Britain again in my concert at the Royal Albert Hall. British culture features heavily at my home right now. My husband [actor Taye Diggs] and I have just gotten into old Dudley Moore movies – the other day we watched Arthur twice in a row. We were in hysterics, but also in awe. Comedians don’t get enough credit for their acting talents.

My concert material is very autobiographical. I write a lot of my own music, drawing inspiration from other female songwriters such as Annie Lennox, Shawn Colvin, and, of course, Joni Mitchell. I’ve

The original Broadway and West End star of Wicked is under the spell of Dudley Moore

[t ravel enter ta i n ment]

Idina Menzel

The award-winning singer and star of Glee loves musicals, jazz and a funny little Brit been immersing myself in her music lately. Sometimes I even just read the lyrics without the music, to read the stories and see her wordplay. I have vocal inspirations, too: Aretha Franklin, Barbra Streisand and Chaka Khan, who has an

effortless quality to her singing.

I’m so excited to be in the next series of Glee [Idina plays Shelby Corcoran, coach of a rival glee club]. And some of my biggest roles have been in Broadway and West End

musicals, like Maureen in Rent and Elphaba in Wicked.

My personal favourite has to be West Side Story. The music is unparalleled and Jerome Robbins’ choreography was unlike anything that had gone before. Another favourite musical of mine is Oliver!

I have fond memories of playing Nancy in a school production, and the film itself is so beautiful and dark.

I’ve always loved jazz music. Our two cats are called Ella (Fitzgerald) and John (Coltrane). Our Yorkshire terrier is called Sammy Davis Junior. I’ve been listening to a lot of Frank Sinatra recently, trying to think if there’s a song of his I could possibly cover. My husband and I like singing the George Gershwin song ‘Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off’, which Ella and Louis Armstrong sang so memorably. HT On 6 October, Idina Menzel plays a concert at the Royal Albert Hall, singing musical theatre and pop favourites, with the Royal Philharmonic Concert Orchestra.

Book tickets at idinainlondon .com

Glee has proved yet again that most of us like nothing better than a tune we can all join in with

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1. ‘Don’t Stop Believin’ from Glee The 3D Concert Movie (Soundtrack), £8 (High Street £9.99) 2. ‘Born This Way’ by Lady Gaga from Now 79, £11.20 (High Street £13.99) 3. ‘Sugar Sugar’ by The Archies from Bubblegum Pop, £8 (High Street £9.99) 4. ‘Hey Jude’ from 1 (Remastered) by The Beatles, out 5 September 5. Title track, Phantom Of The Opera 25th Anniversary by the Original London Cast, out 3 October

interview Maria Yacoob

ALL STARS

A good oldfAshioned singAlong

Book/ Young SHerlock HolmeS – Black Ice andrew lane, £6.99 The third instalment in the Young Sherlock Holmes series sees 14-year-old Sherlock’s most puzzling mystery yet when his older brother Mycroft is found locked in a room, knife in hand, with a corpse.

Sherlock’s quest to prove Mycroft’s innocence takes him to Moscow and back.

DVD & Blu-raY/ faST & furIouS 5 released 5 September In the latest Fast & Furious film, Vin Diesel and Paul Walker join forces once more in a showdown with a corrupt businessman, while evading the authorities in less-thaninconspicuous vehicles.

The series’ formula of fast cars and fast living is as exhilarating as ever.

Books & dvds

DVD/ glee SeaSon 2 (Volume 2) released 19 September The second series of hit US show Glee follows the singing and dancing cast of New Directions as they struggle with love, ambition and rivalry. The show continues its sardonic look at life in high school.

Book/ BaD SISTerS rebecca chance, £6.99 In Chance’s third novel, three rival sisters feud.

Things spiral out of control when the penniless Deeley arrives back in London, hoping to reconnect with her estranged siblings but instead causes havoc.

A deadly secret threatens to tear the family apart.

Blu-raY/ STar WarS THe compleTe Saga released 12 September The highly anticipated Blu-ray release sees the Star Wars saga available in one complete set for the first time, in stunning HD. Relive all your favourite moments and enjoy 40 hours of special features.

Book/ fallen karin Slaughter, £12.99 The latest in the Georgia crime series sees special agent Faith Mitchell’s mother missing, the house in a bloody mess and her daughter trapped in the shed. Faith’s partner Will must solve the vicious case.

DVD & Blu-raY/ THor released 26 September Kenneth Branagh’s movie sees the powerful but arrogant god Thor sent by his father to live among humans. The warrior must redeem himself and protect the world from his evil brother Loki’s dark forces.

Book/ kIll alex croSS James patterson, £12.99 (exclusively at WH Smith from 4 august) The latest Alex Cross novel is the most gripping yet, and involves two major cases. The President’s son and daughter have been abducted, and the water supply for Washington DC has been poisoned. Will the pressure push Cross over the edge?

DVD & Blu-raY/ pIraTeS of THe carIBBean: on STranger TIDeS released 12 September British acting royalty romps around the Caribbean as Captain Jack Sparrow meet his match: the infamous Blackbeard (played with relish by Ian McShane).

Jack is joined by old flame Angelica (Penélope Cruz) on a quest to find the Fountain of Youth.

Book/ THe STranger’S cHIlD alan Hollinghurst, £13.99 Hollinghurst’s first novel in seven years consolidates his reputation as master of witty prose and deft psychological observation.

It begins on the eve of the First World War and follows the lives of the Sawle and Valance families over several generations.

Book/ THe granD DeSIgn Stephen Hawking, £8.99 Famous scientist Stephen Hawking and science writer Leonard Mlodinow draw upon Hawking’s research and recent astronomical observations to reveal a controversial new theory that fuses together different arguments to understand mysteries of the universe.

All DVDs, games and CDs from HMV at Heathrow; all books available from WHSmith & WHSmith Bookshops at Heathrow.

Prices and availability correct at time of printing, but subject to change

Gears of War 3 Xbox 360, released 20 September gAme The finale of the barnstorming trilogy has all the shoot-’em-up requirements: a seemingly unstoppable enemy, adrenaline-heavy set pieces, some heavy-duty ordnance, blistering multiplayer maps, much cordite-tinged bromance and plenty of ‘Ooh-rah!’

Reviews Rosie Steer (books & DVDs); Henry Farrar-Hockley (game)

H eathrow Trave ll er 19

T r av e l J o u r n a l

G o u r m e t t r av e l

Herring salad.

Below: a Swedish langoustine. Opposite, from top: Marstrand; a lobster fisherman

[t h e a u t h e n t i c t a s t e o f. . .]

West Sweden

With lobster, langoustines and oysters on the menu, Scandinavian seafood’s not all about herring, you know In late summer on the west coast of Sweden, a special date draws near.

The first Monday after 20 September (this year, the 26th) is the first day of lobster season. Professional fishermen and amateurs alike prepare their pots in the coastal villages north of Gothenburg.

Each person can drop a maximum of 50. It’s the perfect time to take in a trip there, as you can join a ‘lobster safari’ and haul up some homaridae yourself.

The European lobster grows slowly and has a carnivorous rather than seaweed diet, so ends up far tastier than its cousins off, for example, the coast of Maine. But, although no monsters, they seem pretty fierce as you wrestle them out of their prisons.

After a morning in the sun and on the sea off Fiskebäckskil, we deliver half a dozen lobster to Björn Anderson, chef of Brygghuset (brygghuset-krog.com). ‘you can boil it with leeks, carrots, fennel and dill seeds,’ he says, ‘but I prefer the simple way – heavily salted water.’ There is debate about the ethics of boiling a live animal, but, for Andersson, there is another consideration – always put the lobster in claws-first; its tail will thrash furiously and could drench you with boiling water if it is facing upwards.

Brygghuset offers lobster in West Swedish style – with dill, garlic cream and horseradish syrup, as

part of a menu that starts with a staple, bleak roe (bleak is similar to bream) on toast with sour cream and onion. Or avail yourself of the herring bar. Marinated herrings are served with every flavour under the sun – tomato, bilberry, sweet mustard, apple and the traditional marinade of ättika (spirit vinegar), sugar, allspice, cloves, cinnamon and dill seeds.

Further along the coast, at Everts Sjöbod (Evert’s Boathouse, evertssjobod. se) near Grebbestad, brothers Per and Lars Karlsson are building Sweden’s reputation for another seafood delicacy, the oyster. The clean, sheltered waters around the islands along the coast are ideal for flavourful oysters. Per pilots a beautiful Fifties wooden boat through the archipelago while Lars shucks oysters at speed. We eat them with crispbread and porter brewed in Grebbestad.

While Sweden’s oysters are not exactly world-renowned, its crayfish are incomparable. These are not the bright red freshwater crustaceans the rest of Sweden enjoys at messy, drunken ‘crayfish parties’. These are delicate but rich-tasting langoustines/ Norwegian lobsters/Dublin Bay prawns, depending on your language. Restaurant tables all along the coast are heaving with them, served with mayonnaise and lemon, or, as at the Grand Hotel Marstrand (grandmarstrand.se), au gratin.

Quality of produce here is not restricted to seafood. Sweden was one of the 15 nations in the original Slow Food movement, and has its own accreditation system, the Västsvensk Mersmak (‘Taste of West Sweden‘).

At the beautiful 19th-century Villa Sjötorp (villasjotorp.se), overlooking Havstenford, the meat and vegetables all come from local farms. Lamb, for example, is served with roasted garlic, crushed new potatoes, cauliflower purée and herbs. Inland, surrounded by fields of grain and vegetable crops, Words Chris Madigan; Sarah Evans

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ALAMy; GETTy IMAGES; ISTOCK

the best of swedish cuisine / charcuterie choice

is Qvänum Mat & Malt (qmm.se), a brewery, snaps distillery and restaurant run by Claes and Annike Wernerson.

Over a light lunch of parsley root soup with chicken mousse (accompanied by a homemade light beer called The Neighbour, and toasted with a honey, fennel and caraway- flavoured snaps invented by King Karl XI), Claese enthuses about what the locals, mainly farmers and hunters, produce: ‘They catch perch in Lake Värnen; there is moose in the forest, and the venison is cooked with lingonberries and a bit of dark chocolate.’

The lure of such ingredients (OK, and a Swedish girl) was enough to bring a British chef, Stephen Rowe, here. He now runs the kitchen at the castle hotel, Bjertorp Slott (bjertorpslott.se), where, ironically, he threw out the international menu and insisted on local ingredients.

He enthuses about the bases of birch trees making the perfect beds for chanterelle and trumpet mushrooms; and cold-pressed rapeseed oil as an alternative to olive oil. And, of course, he points across the fields towards the sea and talks about its bounty. HT For details of seafood safaris, and other culinary tours, visit vastsverige.com

M e aT and greeT

l ov e r s o f s au s aG e a n d h a m : here are some centres of c h a rc u t e r i e e xc e l l e nc e

Charcuterie Bonnard, Lyon Not far from the Musée des Beaux Arts, this establishment, which opened in 1850, sells a wide range of Lyonnais specialities, from sausages such as the sabodet, Jésus de Lyon, cervelas and saveloy (stuffed with truffles or pistachios) to traditional dried meats. Closed 6-31 August. charcuteriebonnard.fr

The Black Hoof, Toronto This compact restaurant’s name embodies its emphasis on animal parts less travelled – pig’s tail, anyone? It offers a range of charcuterie, made in-house, which changes constantly and has included beef heart, sake-cured capocollo and horse-meat sausage. theblackhoof.com

La Boqueria Food Market, Barcelona Just off Las Ramblas, this vast edifice shelters an impressive range of stalls, selling wares from spectacular seafood to gleaming fruit and veg.

La Masia de la Boqueria displays a sizeable selection of charcuterie and specialises in ibérico products – the ham from acorn-fed pigs is surely worth the flight alone. boqueria.info

Stellenbosch Hills, Cape Town Legend has it that biltong came from migrating African tribesmen, who would tenderise strips of meat under their saddles. Thankfully, it is now made by marinating in vinegar and air-drying. Try a selection, paired with six wines on at the Stellenbosch Hills Wine Cellar. stellenbosch-hills.co.za

For flight information go to heathrow.com/destinations SAS flies to Gothenburg

He at hrow Travel l er 21

T r av e l J o u r n a l

s p e y s i d e m a lt s

o n e o f B r i ta i n ’ s r e m o t e s t a r e a s p r o d u c e s i t s f i n e s t s p i r i t

[m a l t w h i s k y]

The old Speyside smuggling days re-enacted. Opposite, from top: a swan-necked still; The Glenlivet distillery

Scottish still life

The history and landscape of the Highlands has created the ideal conditions for whisky-making At 570m, Carn Daimh, on the Speyside Way, may be a modest summit but it’s an evocative spot on the trail once used by smuggler Robbie MacPherson to bring whisky out of the Glenlivet valley to a thirsty world.

Until 1824, the likes of MacPherson and George Smith, founder of he Glenlivet distillery, were breaking the law by dealing in whisky. This despite it being, in the words of The Glenlivet’s current Master Distiller, Alan Winchester, ‘part of the cycle of Highland life’. Then George IV came to Edinburgh, dressed in a kilt (‘to ingratiate himself’, says Winchester), and demanded a glass of Glenlivet. After that, it was impossible not to issue licences.

hooray for SPey

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Six of the best malts at World of Whiskies 1. Balvennie Portwood 21YO 70cl, £70.99 (High Street £90.90) 2. Macallan Whisky Makers Edition 1l, £59.99 3. Aberlour 12YO Sherry Cask, 1l, £30.99 4. The Glenlivet 18YO 1l, £42.49 (HS £54.11) 5. Glenfiddich Rich Oak 1l, £32.99 (HS £50.69) 6. The Glenlivet Master Distiller’s Reserve 1l, £34.99 (WDF exclusive)

At Charlestown of Aberlour, the stream that gives the whisky its name (‘mouth of the Lour’) runs through the Aberlour distillery, whereas The Glenlivet has springs dotted around the hill above the distillery. Filtration through Cairngorm

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granite gives the water a pure minerality that, say, Kentucky cannot boast.

Malted barley is used in place of rye or corn, because traditionally it has been the only cereal hardy enough to grow here. And the often-damp conditions are ideal for maturing whisky slowly.

What’s left of the barley returns to the land: both The Glenlivet’s and Aberlour’s draff becomes cattle feed.

With heritage, provenance and craft so important to whisky, it’s surprising to realise that as recently as the Sixties, single malts were the preserve of grizzled drinkers. Then Glenfiddich gained a reputation to match Johnnie Walker, and others followed suit: Cardu, Macallan, The Glenlivet etc. Now, says Winchester, malt drinkers no longer stick steadfastly to one dram: ‘As with real ale, they’re keen to try different styles.’

His latest release is the beautifully balanced Master Distiller’s Reserve.

To understand why all whiskies don’t

Words Chris Madigan, Rosie Steer

SPIrIT oF The n aT I o n

drinks with roots deep in the soil of england, scotland & ulster soil

Pimm’s In 1823, James Pimm opened his London Oyster Bar and put his own infusion of gin, herbs and fruit extracts on the menu. It became known as the Pimm’s House Cup. Pimm’s No.1, 70cl, £14.49 (High Street £15.88)

Drambuie From a recipe given to Scotsman Captain MacKinnon by Bonnie Prince Charlie, Drambuie is made from malt whisky, heather honey and a secret blend of herbs and spices.

Drambuie, 1l, £24.99 (HS £36.17)

taste the same, you need to visit at least a couple of distilleries. In these places, the mystical and chemical entwine: in copper stills, different shaped necks release different spirits, while in warehouses, rows of casks silently impart characteristics of bourbon or sherry over 12, 18, even 25 years, while the ‘angel’s share’ evaporates.

Aberlour’s tour is led by another passionate expert, but no local, Bengt Olaf Andersson, and ends with a tasting and the chance to fill your own bottle of single-cask malt (aberlour.com). After a tour of the new Glenlivet distillery (theglenlivet.com), take a walk along one of the Smugglers’ trails in the valley – the perfect way to feel the bond between people, animals, landscape and whisky in the Highlands. HT Chris Madigan flew to with bmi Aberdeen and stayed at the Aberdeen Mal, which has a whisky cave, expert bar staff and regular tastings (malmaison.com)

bmi and British Airways fly to Aberdeen

Bushmills Irish Whiskey More than 400 years of history live on at Ireland’s oldest working distillery. Unusually, Bushmills produces both malt whiskeys and blended ones, including the classic Black Bush.

Bushmills Black Bush, 1l, £21.99

Chase Marmalade Vodka Made using traditional methods, this sublime spirit also enjoys a lengthy steep in the finest orange preserve. And what could be more British than marmalade?

Chase Marmalade, 70cl, £29.99 (WDF exclusive)

London Dry Gin A name first coined in the 18th century, London Dry Gin was the capital’s characteristic spirit, distilled with citrus aromatics and less sweet than foreign equivalents.

Beefeater LDG, 1l, £11.99 (HS £22.57)

Heat hrow Travel le r 23

fRom science to LuxuRy La prairie’s laboratories constantly strive for the next beauty innovation

Renowned for its majestic landscapes and pure mountain air, Switzerland is a destination for those seeking rejuvenation and restoration. La Prairie is at the forefront of this desire with a heritage of research into age defiance.

Eighty years ago, at Clinique La Prairie in Montreux, Professor Paul Niehans pioneered a revolutionary cellular therapy to slow the effects

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of ageing. That cellular therapy has founded La Prairie’s scientific approach ever since, with the creation of La Prairie’s exclusive Cellular Complex, which stimulates skin’s renewal process by delivering key moisturisation and nutrition.

This legendary complex is a key component of La Prairie’s advanced-technology age-defying skin solutions.

Today, although separate from Clinique La Prairie,

Laboratoires La Prairie continues to combine exclusive, state-of-the-art research with the finest ingredients, in its unparalleled commitment to innovation and excellence and the creation of an indulgent beauty experience.

Anti-Aging Neck Cream With its dedication to researching age-defying solutions, La Prairie extends its remit beyond the

clockwise from above: Anti-Aging neck cream; cellular Power infusion; cellular energizing Line; and skin caviar, all

by La Prairie

conventional focus of ageing. As the skin of the neck is thinner than that of the face, it needs specific protection against signs of age. La Prairie has launched Anti-Aging Neck Cream, which helps refirm

promotion

Cellular POwer infusiOn Discover the latest La Prairie innovation for the first time, a skincare product acts simultaneously on the three dimensions of skin-aging. this system revives the complexion to a more young-looking condition: Dimension 1 cellular Power infusion activates mitochondria or cell power stations to reverse energy loss, and so recharges the skin with energy essential to achieving its optimum performance.

Dimension 2 over time skin cells lose their capability for renewal, leading to more signs of skin ageing. cellular Power infusion stimulates epidermal stem cells to begin renewal, letting new cells rise to the skin’s surface.

Dimension 3 With age, the skin’s extracellular matrix can deteriorate, and lines and wrinkles develop. cellular Power infusion assists in supporting the rebuilding of t he skin’s structure and the renewal of skin tissue.

and recontour skin that has become dehydrated and slackened over time.

This cellular firming complex acts in three ways.

First, a unique peptide helps stimulate elastin production while a tensing agent instantly tightens the complexion upon application, creating the appearance and sensation of a lift. Second, an innovative volume-reducing complex helps promote the breakdown of fat cells, that can cause a double chin.

This helps create a more taut, youthful-looking skin.

Finally, Resurrection Plant

Extract helps improve cellular metabolism and skin hydration while an AntiPigment C targets pigmentproducing cells in order to help reduce discolouration.

Skin Caviar The epitome of La Prairie’s combination of advanced technology and sheer luxury is its Caviar Collection. Made up of luxurious and effective Caviar Extract and a

combination of deep moisturisers and rare sea proteins, it creates an instant firming effect on your skin, leaving it satin smooth and glowing bright.

The Skin Caviar Luxe Cream delivers intensive hydration and enhances skin tone, while the Skin Caviar

Crystalline Concentré combines precious diamonds with protein-rich caviar to help re-create a firm, youthful complexion.

This dual devotion to pampering and scientific endeavour means that the next eight decades will see La Prairie continuing its unique combination of advanced-technology research and the pursuit of sybaritic solutions, to maintain its leading role in defying age.

H eath row Trave ll er 25

DESTINATION London

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New Zealand

Paradise islands

England rugby’s Nick Easter on Las Vegas

The big PicTure: ouTside P h a n T om s , oa h u, h awa i i In 1977 a young Australian picked up a Kodak Instamatic and snapped a picture of a wave off a beach in Tasmania. Fourteen years on, Sean Davey is one of the world’s leading surf photographers. He is now based on the North Shore of Oahu, where some of the world’s most famous waves crash into the island. Davey says, ‘I photographed this image back in 2001. There was a very big swell under perfect conditions and I took a helicopter up, just randomly chasing images. We were hovering over a place called Outside Phantoms, when Brazilian surfer Fernando Rebeira caught this amazing wave.’ Ten years on, it’s still one of the photographer’s favourite shots.

Sean Davey/Getty Images United Airlines flies to Honolulu

Heat hrow Travel l er 27

D e s t i n at i o n

comment

AlexAnder mccAll Smith

Bertie Plays the Blues (the latest 44 Scotland Street novel) by Alexander McCall Smith is published on 1 August by Birlinn Ltd. A paperback of the previous book in the series, The Importance of Being Seven, is available now

We all know the saying that travel broadens the mind.

I agree, but would add that it can broaden the mind in more than one direction.

Going abroad not only shows us how others live, but helps us think about how we live at home. When I return to the UK after an overseas trip, I often think about how we must look to the visitor.

Standing in the queue next to a large UK BORDER notice makes me think about what lies ahead for those about me – the travellers with whom I may have spent eight or nine hours in an aircraft five miles up in the sky. What’s going through their minds? What are they expecting to find on the other side of that border?

I suppose every visitor has preconceptions. I remember when I first travelled to the American South, I had a very strong idea of what I would find there. After all, I had read my Faulkner and watched Gregory Peck in To Kill a Mockingbird. I expected trees with moss hanging off the branches, houses with swing seats on the verandas, and eateries serving deliciously unhealthy fried food. And what did I get?

Exactly that. Mobile, Alabama, where I did a series of literary talks, and Oxford, Mississippi, where I did a signing in an iconic Southern bookstore, fulfilled every expectation I had, and then added the most remarkable American hospitality to the mixture.

Visitors who come to Britain probably have much

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the same sort of personal list of things they expect to see.

The face of modern Britain may be changing rapidly – as everywhere is – but many of the old things remain – and thank goodness for that.

There are still traditional

further north, the visitor to Scotland can still hear bagpipes being played on Edinburgh street corners and see, in the summer months at least, men in kilts tossing cabers at Highland games. All these shenanigans

A tip of the hat Whatever characters visitors to the UK expect to meet, one thing they can rely on is a warm welcome low-ceilinged pubs serving warm beer; there are still soldiers dressed in colourful uniforms with impossible bearskin headgear; there are still flat-bottomed boats propelled through ancient university towns by young men wielding poles. And

may seem highly unlikely, but the important thing for the visitor to Britain to remember is that nothing is staged. This is real. We really go in for these things. We really believe in them!

That, I think, is one of the most attractive things about

Britain: the fact that life in these islands has an extraordinary historical and cultural depth and variety.

This means that the modern, functional world of the here and now coexists within a spectrum of optional lifestyles and interests.

For the most part, all of this is shared with the visitor, who is often a welcome participant in the whole business. So if you want to dress up and go to a fancy horse race with the best of them, all you need is a ridiculous hat and the price of the ticket. If you want to cheer on a boat race, then either side will be very pleased for you to shout them on. If you want to go to a pub and talk to the locals, you can do that too: all you need to do is to buy a round of drinks – they like that.

So, in general, as I stand in that hall on the arrival side of the UK border, I find that I have no great fear about what lies ahead for my fellow travellers. We have our faults in Britain, of course, but I’d say being reluctant to give visitors a welcome is not really one of them.

I have one word of warning for the visitor, though: one of the preconceptions you may have is that of traditional British reserve. Yes, that exists too, but may be quickly broken down by the savvy, in-the-know visitor. The key is for you to be the first to utter the all-important code word that melts the ice.

That word? ‘Hello’. HT

Illustration Samuel Rhodes

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D e s t i n at i o n

Postcard

nick easter

I’ve had three excellent holidays in Las Vegas, Nevada. It’s a mad place to escape to, completely unique compared to the rest of the world. for me, it is usually a celebration with my teammates at the end of a tough season, somewhere to let loose and enjoy ourselves. there’s plenty to do and every hotel is like a mini-city in itself; with casinos, restaurants, clubs, bars, pools and more. you bump into people from all over the world. maybe it is the fact that you can lose yourself for a few days. they pump the hotels full of oxygen, so you just keep going! the hotels are always good value. i’ve stayed at the

Rugby star finds a new strip The England vice-captain takes time out from training to explain why Las Vegas has something for everyone Hard rock Hotel, which is a great place. the steakhouse there is pretty hard to beat for dinner. the Bellagio hotel also has a good reputation and is where the ‘o’ cirque du soleil show is held. it’s very popular so you have to book well in advance.

But there are several cirque du soleil shows in Vegas and you should definitely catch one. the acrobatics seem almost impossible.

Vegas is all about casinos but i’m not actually a big

gambler myself. i’ll have a go because you can’t really escape it. they’ve got tables at the pool, tables at the bar.

Wherever you go, you have the chance to gamble. if i do, i’ll keep it simple with a bit of blackjack. they have all the top DJs in the clubs. the best night i’ve been to is xs at the Wynn. that’s an amazing club. one time they were chucking $100 bills in the air – ‘making it rain’, as they call it. that was a special night! it’s an enormous club; half outside,

half inside. the vibe and the music are both good. i’ll always be down by the pool around 11am, regardless of what happened the night before. they have pool parties in the afternoon and i’ll drop in at the other hotels, to see what’s happening. if you aren’t into partying, there is still plenty to do, like a helicopter ride over the Grand canyon. you’ll be flying along and suddenly the ground will drop away a mile deep. it certainly wakes you up after a long night! there’s a shooting range, which i’ve been to before, and loads out of the centre to get up to during the day.

But wherever you stay and whatever you do, you’re guaranteed plenty of entertainment. HT Nick Easter is managed

by SJ Dent & Co Sports Management; sjdentmgt.com British Airways flies to Las Vegas

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Interview Giles milton

Heath row Travel ler 3 0

alamy; rex features; istock

Since 2004, Nick Easter has played at No 8 for Harlequins RFC, current holders of the European Challenge Cup; and he is vice-captain of the England team that won the RBS 6 Nations this year and will travel to New Zealand for the World Cup

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07/11

Secret London Quirky museums, pop-up eateries and exciting events… Discover the capital that most visitors rarely experience

Sand sculptures on the riverbank at the Mayor’s Thames Festival

getty

intriguing eventS Exhibitions, festivals and assorted happenings thames Festival this free event has activities running all the way along the thames from tower Bridge

to Westminster Bridge.

Highlights include a night carnival, a communal dining table over Southwark Bridge, a parade of historical boats and a fantastic firework finale. 10-11 September. thamesfestival.org Olympic test events A number of world-class sporting events are taking place in the capital this summer, in order to test operations and try out the

new facilities in the run-up to London 2012. the new Olympic Park and existing venues will play host to archery, cycling, boxing, basketball and table tennis events, among others. londonpreparesseries.com tickets at ticketmaster.co.uk.

Frieze Art Fair this annual modern art fair, held in the elegant surroundings of Regent’s Park, is one of the world’s

most important, challenging showcases of emerging and established talent from around the world. Attracting more than 170 international galleries, along with buyers, culture’s leading lights and celebrities, Frieze is an unmissable event on any contemporary art lover’s calendar. Check the website for details of exhibition tours, talks and film screenings.

13-16 October. friezeartfair.com

For details of onward travel from Heathrow, go to heathrow.com/toandfrom H eath row Trave ll er 3 3

Anthropomorphic Summer Festival Wilton’s Music Hall, near Tower Hill, is the world’s oldest survivor of its kind, and has an interesting array of events for its summer festival. You can catch music, theatre, comedy and magic shows, but is worth visiting for the Mahogany Bar alone and to see the gorgeous 1850s building. Take a tour and discover its colourful history (from Victorian sailor’s pub to a Methodist Mission). Until 9 September. wiltons.org.uk Open House London Once a year, hundreds of buildings that are usually closed to the public open their doors to all, allowing a peek inside unusual and important architectural wonders such as 30 St Mary Axe (the ‘Gerkin’), as well as private homes and government departments.

Last year more than 700 buildings took part and admission to the buildings

is absolutely free. Across London, 17 & 18 September. londonopenhouse.org.

The Museum Of Everything The movable Museum Of Everything is London’s only museum dedicated to pieces by artists who live and work outside mainstream society.

Featuring works from overlooked, self-taught artists, the museum’s fourth exhibition opens 2 September in a yet undisclosed central London space and promises to be intriguing and inspirational. museumofeverything.com More London festival The Scoop is an outdoor sunken amphitheatre with the impressive backdrop of Tower Bridge and City Hall. During the summer it turns into a hive of free cultural events, including concerts, theatre and film screenings. Festival runs until 30 September. morelondon.com

The Museum of London

THE OLD CuriOSiTy STOP Quirky collections and museums of the strange The Horniman Museum This lovely Victorian edifice in leafy Forest Hill shows off the passion of early naturalists. When a walrus skin was sent back from Hudson Bay to be stuffed,

1. The London Eye Londoners love this view of the heart of the city. The new ‘4D’ experience adds more to the ‘flight’. londoneye.com

Clichés, no Classics, definitely

2. St Paul’s Cathedral After 15 years under scaffolding, Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece has re-emerged, better looking than ever. stpauls.co.uk

Take a flight on the London Eye

3. London buses There are still two ‘heritage routes’ with Routemasters: 9 (Olympia–Aldwych) and 15 (Trafalgar Sq–Tower Bridge) tfl.gov.uk

4. Afternoon tea at The ritz Fill your boots with smart sandwiches, pastries, cakes and scones at The Ritz, washed down with your choice of 17 teas. theritzlondon.com/tea 5. Sunday roast This national institution has long been the signature dish of Simpsons-InThe-Strand. simpsons inthestrand.co.uk 6. V&A Museum In a vast, eclectic range of art and design, you can currently see Beatrix Potter’s charming botanical artwork. vam.ac.uk

the taxidermist had no idea it had folds of skin – the resulting puffa-walrus is there to this day; along with ethnographic curios and an excellent aquarium. horniman.ac.uk Whitechapel Bell Foundry This modest little workshop has produced two items at the very heart of American and British democracy: Big Ben and the Liberty Bell.

The foundry still operates today and you can take a fascinating tour of it by prior appointment. whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk Handel House Museum This house in Brook Street, Mayfair, was home to the German composer for some 36 years and it was here that he composed Messiah and other lasting classics. Not only is the house restored to Georgian splendour and stuffed with the composer’s possessions, it is also a venue for Baroque music concerts. handelhouse.org Dennis and Sir John Two houses full of character in two of London’s most historic areas. Sir John Soane, the architect of the Bank Of

D e s t i n at i o n s e c r e t lon d on

The Cocktail bar at Zetter Townhouse

Sterling work Travelex currency tips about the British pound

The pound is used in British territories, including South Georgia and British Antarctica It is the oldest currency in use, dating back to the 8th century when 240 silver pennies weighed one pound Common slang terms for it include ‘quid’ and ‘knicker’ In east London, five ATM machines offer Cockney (old London rhyming slang) as a language. Don’t forget your four-digit ‘Huckleberry Finn’

ALAMY

England, amassed a large collection of antiquities in his house bordering Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Sir John Soane’s Museum includes bronzes from Pompeii and an Egyptian sarcophagus plus Hogarths and Canalettos.

In another historic house on Folgate Street, Spitalfields, Californian Dennis Severs created a ‘still-life drama’ of a family living through the 18th and 19th centuries. soane.org; dennissevers house.co.uk The Clink Fan of the Horrible Histories?

This building was once the prison that gave us the slang term ‘in the clink’.

Housing miscreants from the surrounding borough of Southwark between 1144 and 1780, the Clink has a terrible past of abuse and torture, told on a tour of claustrophobic corridors and chilling chambers – you may

want to cheer yourself up afterwards at the bustling nearby Borough Market. clink.co.uk Museum of London A hive of activity, this museum tells the city’s story in fascinating detail from prehistoric times, through Roman occupation, the Middle Ages, civil war, plague and fire to the trendy, hightech metropolis of late. museumoflondon.org.uk Museum of Brands A labour of love, a place of worship, the result of an obsession — however you describe this museum, in a mews in Notting Hill, it is a remarkable range of objects that show the development of branding, packaging and advertising for some of the world’s most popular products — and others much loved and sadly missed. museumofrands.com

nigHTS OuT, nigHTS in The capital’s best new hotels, bars & restaurants Experimental Cocktail Club Through an incongruous, unmarked door in Chinatown is one of London’s chicest bars. Speakeasies are all over the capital, but this is one of the best, with an unusual location (no one goes drinking in Chinatown). Attentive and knowledgeable staff here make original, killer cocktails. experimentalcocktail clublondon.com Absinthe Bar Follow the green fairy to Knightsbridge’s awardwinning and stylish

Brompton Bar & Grill, which now houses the city’s first absinthe bar. They serve the spirit both in the traditional way, mixed with ice water, and in contemporary or classic cocktails. bromptonbarandgrill.com Pollen Street Social Chef Jason Atherton’s first solo venture in London is notable not only for its chic design, interesting modern art and exquisite, inventive cuisine but also for featuring the capital’s first dessert bar.

Pastry chefs prepare mouthwatering dishes in front of the lucky few that can bag stools at the counter. pollenstreetsocial.com Zetter Townhouse The new sister hotel to the nearby chic Clerkenwell favourite The Zetter is a pleasing mix of eccentricity and five-star luxury. The 13 rooms are as indulgent

Words Arabella Dickie, Jane Fulcher, Tanya Jackson, Chris Madigan, Rosie Steer H eath row Travell er 3 5

tHE PoP-uP MEtRoPoLIS The trend for the temporary, oddly, is here to stay

Drinks at the Candlelight Club

as those in any top hotel but with added character.

And the hotel’s bar is gaining a reputation for its delicious cocktails, themselves an homage to Dickensian London, inspired by old recipes for herbal tinctures and bitters, served at an apothecary-style counter. thezettertownhouse.com Brunswick House Café housed inside an architectural reclamation building, Brunswick house café is a little-known gem in Vauxhall. Serving up small plates of delicious, original, carefully sourced British fare

alongside excellent cocktails and surrounded by beautiful antiques, knick-knacks and oddities – all for sale – this is a South London Aladdin’s cave to treasure. brunswickhousecafe.co.uk Corinthia Hotel London A fantastic new addition to the city’s luxury hotel scene, the corinthia is minutes away from trafalgar Square. With striking Belle Époque design, charming service, spacious rooms and two world-class restaurants: Massimo and the northall, this hotel is set to become a landmark. corinthia.com

Street food What’s that: you eat in restaurants? that are always in the same place? how 2010. the eateries creating the biggest buzz in the capital are not Michelin-starred celeb dining rooms, but gourmet street kitchens (such as @streetkitchen itself) with changing locations, daily specials, and fans who argue online about which is ‘the best burger you’ll ever taste’ (it’s @meatwagon, by the way).

For who’s where when, follow @eatstreet on twitter Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof Garden In the concrete expanse of the Southbank arts centre, a garden has sprung up above the Qeh to mark the 60th

anniversary of the Festival of Britain. Designed by eden Project landscape architects, it has vegetable plots, a daisy-covered lawn and wild flowers. Until 4 September. southbanklondon.com Pop-up Peckham Some may know it as the home of ‘Del Boy’ trotter in Only Fools and Horses; few will know it as a hotbed of pop-up chic. the best example is atop the multistorey car park next to the cinema at Peckham rye – walk past artwork displays to Frank’s campari Bar, with its surprising views of the city. frankscafe.org.uk Secret Cinema Bored of multiplex picture houses? Adventure and surprise await film fans in London via organisations like Secret cinema and the nomad cinema. At the former, you don’t know the film you’ll be seeing till you arrive and get clues from costumed staff and pre-film activities. the nomad pops up at fitting venues such as the Queen

used exclusively for monastical contemplation. Now anyone can pause to enjoy the peaceful green surroundings.

There’s plenty to explore: historical buildings, preserved watermills and a lovely, aromatic rose garden.

1. Crystal Palace Park, SE20 A Victorian Jurassic Park, Crystal Palace’s ‘Dinosaur Court’ is home to life-sized (wildly inaccurate) sculptures of prehistoric animals.

3. Parkland Walk, N4 to N22 The leafy walkway, on a disused railway line in north London, from Finsbury Park to Alexandra Palace, is home to more than 300 species of wild flower and a diverse range of animal life.

5. Kyoto Garden, Holland Park, W8 Created by specialist Japanese gardeners to celebrate the 1991 London Festival of Japan, this garden is beautiful, authentic and one of London’s most peaceful parks.

2. Westminster abbey gardens, SW1 Imbued with history, the cloisters and gardens were once

4. Morden Hall Park, Morden, Surrey This suburban escape is part of the Morden Hall estate.

Green spaces with room to move

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Dyouthinkhesaurus?

Crystal Palace

6. Queen’s Wood, Highgate, N10 This area of ancient woodland dates from prehistoric times. Now a nature

reserve, the forest has a wonderful diversity of flora and fauna – particularly considering its proximity to the centre of London.

7. Isabella Plantation, Richmond, Surrey Richmond Park is best known for its deer. But hidden away is a stunning ornamental woodland garden.

Designed to offer stunning displays year-round, the lilies and irises will soon give way to reddening acer leaves.

D e s t i n at i o n s e c r e t lon d on

Take the sea air at Margate

Take the wheel hire a car at heathrow and enjoy the freedom of the open road from start to finish

From plane to car and straight to London – there’s no easier way to start your adventure You’ll be at liberty to explore the great many attractions that await you just a short drive out of London Choose from Hertz, Avis, Europcar, National, Enterprise, Alamo, Budget and Sixt For more details, check out heathrow.com/hire

Mum’s old house for The King’s Speech or a lido for The Life Aquatic. @secretcinema @thenomadcinema

ALAMY; cLAYton hArtLeY

Candlelight Club Speakeasies and one-off hootenannies are enjoying a revival in the capital. one such is the candlelight club, which occupies buildings, lights the whole place with naked flames and creates a party with themes of betting on horses or a Great Gatsbystyle weekend house party. thecandlelightclub.com Pop-up playtime Feeling playful? London often hosts performances like real-world video games, in which you are players. Join october’s Player festival at the Science Museum, run by @Trigger. or try Archipelago, a sort of architectural chinese Whispers across the capital. Intrigued? Follow thingsinabigcity.tumblr.com

day tRIPS to SavouR Countryside capers and seaside frolics near the capital Sissinghurst Estate In the ruins of an elizabethan mansion near tunbridge Wells lies one of the UK’s best-loved gardens, the creation of poet Vita Sackville-West. the ten outdoor ‘rooms’ include the yellow and orange-themed cottage Garden, the nuttery and the Wild Garden. nationaltrust.org.uk/ sissinghurst Cass Sculpture Park this charity and open-air sculpture park covers 26 acres of fairytale woodland in West Sussex. the ever-

changing display of 80 monumental artworks for sale is mainly by British contemporary artists, such as Gavin turk, Anish Kapoor and Antony Gormley. sculpture.org.uk Margate the seaside resort of Margate in Kent is flourishing due to the new £17.4m turner gallery and boutique B&Bs. Stroll along the front, fritter away pennies in the arcades, recuperate in the Mad hatter tea Garden or the Ambrette, and explore the 2,000sq ft tunnels of the ancient, mysterious Shell Grotto. visitthanet.co.uk Mersea Island Alongside 17th-century fishermen’s cottages sits a gloriously unpretentious eatery, run by oyster fisher richard hayward and his wife heather. the company Shed sells seafood, including

smoked eel, crab and oysters, and nothing else. Bring some bread and wine, and tuck in.

01206 382700 New Forest National Park Wild ponies roam and reign over this 220sq mile stretch of open heath and wild oak and beech forest, which also boasts a sea of purple heather at this time of year.

It’s two hours from London, so you could stay over at the thatched Kingfisher retreat. newforestnpa.gov.uk Rye Pass along the coastal route to this former port in east Sussex – a jumble of cobbled lanes lined with Georgian, tudor and norman architecture. Boat down the river rother to Bodiam castle or venture out to rye harbour nature reserve or henry VIII’s camber castle. visitrye.co.uk HT

For a great deal on public transport and entry to London attractions go to heathrowexpress.com/london-pass He athrow Trave ll er 37

D e s t i n at i o n

I S L A N D R E T R E AT S

Desert islands have evolved from the ridiculously tough to the sublime since Daniel Defoe wrote Robinson Crusoe in 1719, and now combine natural wonders and luxurious accommodation into holidays that aim to create the ultimate time out from the daily grind. Cannibals not included 1

Fantasy Islands

For total seclusion, surrounded by shimmering seas, a remote island retreat offers blissful isolation

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1. Havelock Island

2. Parrot Cay

ANDAMAN ISLANDS Home to ‘the best beach in Asia’ (TIME magazine) Havelock shows off the finest elements of the Andaman Islands in one location: towering jungle, emerald waters, elephants, and big, big fish. Kayak through mangrove creeks, snorkel the reefs in search of elusive dugongs, or go Crusoe for the day on a nearby deserted island. Staying in a thatched cottage in the rainforest is a guaranteed stress-buster. responsible travel.com British Airways, Air India

TURKS & CAICOS The hands of time ease to a halt at this oasis in the northern Caribbean fringed by white sand and translucent seas.

The chic, whitewashed accommodation includes beachside villas with private pools and Balinese day beds – one of several Asian touches.

For complete relaxation, COMO Shambhala Retreat offers Eastern therapies such as acupuncture and shiatsu to aid your passage to nirvana. parrotcay.como.bz British Airways

Words Arabella Dickie

1. Getting close to nature on Havelock Island 2. Parrot Cay’s infinity pool 3. Rangali’s ‘Quiet Zone’ pool 4. A loggerhead turtle, native to Wilson Island 5. Fishing near Kamalame Cay 6. Song Saa

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3. Rangali Island

4. Wilson Island

5. Kamalame Cay

6. Song Saa

THE MALDIVES Nestled in a lagoon, this private resort spans two isles lined by palm trees and linked by a wooden bridge. Arrive in style in a seaplane over the coral reef before settling into island life in one of the beach villas, or take the wooden walkway to the stilted villas (which will reopen in November after refurbishment) over the azure Indian Ocean. Indulge in the world’s first all-glass, undersea restaurant and take your pick from numerous spa therapies. conradhotels1.hilton.com Sri Lankan Airlines

AUSTRALIA Pristine and utterly secluded, pint-size Wilson Island is the Great Barrier Reef as nature intended. Designer-inspired tent accommodation (for a maximum of 12 guests) offers panoramic ocean views, resplendent with breaching humpback whales in the migratory months. A wildlife haven, the island is sanctuary to more than 40,000 birds and the isolated idyll is complete as there is no mobile-phone coverage! wilsonisland.com BA, Qantas, Virgin

THE BAHAMAS Several pastel-coloured Bahamian cottages, a freshwater pool and Balinesestyle spa make up this private island hideaway. The Great House serves as a chilled meeting place for meals and cocktails. This is a relaxing, technology-free zone — and who needs television when the view through the muslindraped French doors is of flowering tropical foliage and the glittering ocean, teeming with manta rays and parrotfish? abercrombiekent.co.uk British Airways

CAMBODIA In the untouched Koh Rong Archipelago lies Cambodia’s first-ever private island resort, Song Saa (Khmer for ‘The Sweethearts’). Spanning two islets linked by a footbridge, the resort, which opens in February 2012, will feature a spa suspended in the rainforest and 27 eco villas with private verandahs and plunge pools.

Think high-level luxury with environmental consciousness. songsaa.com BA, EVA Air, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways International, Qantas

For detailed airport and flight information, go to heathrow.com/destinations He at hrow Travel l er 39

D e s t i n at i o n

NEW ZEALAND

Whether you’re going for the rugby or don’t know your hooker from your haka, the home of the All Blacks will provide more breathtaking moments and adrenaline rushes than you could hope for in a holiday. Follow our route from Auckland to Otago

Peak performance There will be somestunning action at the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand – but, says Will Hide, the players will be hard pressed to match the spectacle that is the host nation New Zealand co-hosted (and won) the first Rugby World Cup in 1987. Now, 24 years on, the country where the sport is in every Kiwi’s DNA will welcome the rugby world again.

For six weeks, thousands of fanatical supporters – in

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kilts, carrying inflatable leeks or slurring good-naturedly through a medley of ‘nkosi Sikelele Swing low Sweet matilda of athenry’ at midnight – will journey to the land of the long White cloud.

While the focal point will be the match-hosting cities,

such as auckland, Wellington, new plymouth and dunedin, it’s the country’s great outdoors and adrenalineinducing range of activities that will be the big draw for visitors before the kick-off of the opening match – and long after any last-minute

drop-kicks. additionally, the Real new Zealand Festival, which runs simultaneously with the Rugby World cup, celebrates Kiwi food and wine, culture and heritage, giving visitors a chance to experience the finest the country has to offer.

Words Will Hide

Opposite: Mitre Peak rises from Milford Sound.

This page, from top: Sailing an America’s Cup yacht; NZ’s native woodland in Pureora Forest Park

Rob SuiSted/natuReSpic.com; Julian apSe; KieRan Scott

North IslaNd Heli-biking, sailing, volcanoes, DIY spas and hobbity hills

If Auckland is your first port of call, there are thrills to be had before heading off into the wilderness, whether it’s leaping off the Sky tower from 192m above street level (skyjump.co.nz), sailing an america’s cup yacht (explorenz.co.nz), going on a surf safari to the black sands of nearby piha (newzealandsurftours.com) or diving in the Hauraki Gulf (goatislanddive.co.nz). if you prefer not to fling yourself around, a short ferry ride takes you to Waiheke island (waiheke.co.nz), where you can chill out with a Viognier at cable bay (cablebayvineyards.co.nz) or mudbrick (mudbrick.co.nz), and gaze at the city skyline shimmering over the waters. the laid-back coromandel peninsula, east of auckland, is where urbanites come to feel the sand under their jandals (flip-flops) and grab a frosty brew from the chilly bin (aka cooler). locals also head to Hot Water beach near Whitianga (mercurybay. co.nz) where at low tide, mineral-rich water rises through the sand, creating a natural spa. driving south, past the bubbling mud and sulphur of Rotorua (rotoruanz.com) and taupo (greatlaketaupo.com), where you can scare yourself silly with heli-biking and sky

Auckland

Coromandel Peninsula

Whanganui Nat. Park Wellington

diving, you reach the ski fields of Whakapapa village on the sides of volcanic mt Ruapehu (mtruapehu.com), where lifts run until mid-october. peter Jackson’s Hobbiton was created in the contorted hills of central north island and you can explore them with a maori guide (pure orawalks.com). or hike the tongariro crossing (adriftnz. co.nz), soak in a thermal pool at tokaanu (nzhotpools.co.nz)

or cycle the old coach Road to ohakune (tcbskiandboard.co.nz).

Further west, past Whanganui national park, lies the surfer’s town of new plymouth (taranaki.co.nz) in the shadow of snow-capped mt taranaki, and 300km to the south is Lonely Planet ‘s ‘coolest little capital in the world’, Wellington (wellington nz.com). the hype is justified. as well as more hip bars

around cuba Street than you can shake an emo haircut at, the city has a cafe culture to match Seattle, plus world-class attractions such as the te papa museum (tepapa.govt.nz) and wildlife sanctuary Zealandia (visitzealandia. com). and then there are the storms that barrel through the cook Strait and knock you sideways.

Hold on to your hat.

Air New Zealand flies direct to Auckland; Emirates flies via Dubai. For details, see heathrow.com/destinations H eathrow l er 41 Heath row Travel ler

D e s t i n at i o n N E W Z E A L A N D

South ISland Whale-watching, kayaking, skiing, wine and penguins

If North Island leaves you agog, its wild sister awaits with a knowing grin. it must be said though, that flying into Christchurch,

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(christchurchnz.com) ‘the most english city outside england’ can trick newcomers into thinking otherwise. nevertheless, this charming city is a convenient gateway to the rest of the lush Canterbury district. the stadium Christchurch rugby world Cup matches have been moved to other venues and parts of the downtown area of the city remain off-limits following february’s earthquake, but there are still plenty of hotels

and attractions open and in need of your business. if you’ve sailed to south island on the wellington ferry, though, the first dilemma is whether to linger in the marlborough wine region (lovemarlborough.co.nz) and then head down to kaikoura on the east coast for a spot of whale and dolphin watching (kaikoura.co.nz), or west to kayak in abel tasman national park (abeltasman. co.nz). if you plump for the latter, you can potter down

the rugged west coast to the cracking franz Josef and fox Glaciers (foxguides.co.nz), where on a clear day you’ll also get awesome views of 3,755m-high mt Cook. to the south lies the pretty lake wanaka area (lakewanaka.co.nz). it’s home to great ski fields at Cardrona, treble Cone, snow farm and snow park, and also provides a base for other activities, from ‘white-water sledging’ and quad biking to calmer pursuits, such as scenic

Ben Crawford; destination taupo/laketauponz.Com; Gareth eyres/exposure.Co.nz. all photos Courtesy of tourism new zealand

This page: Sea-kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park. Opposite, from top: Camping on Moke Lake; Abel Tasman National Park

travelex currency tips new zealand’s currency is the new zealand dollar

Abel Tasman Nat. Park

you must declare on arrival or departure if you are carrying more than nz$10,000 in cash

Marlborough Franz Josef Glacier

the reverse of each of the banknotes features a different nz native bird, with the name in maori

Queenstown Otago Peninsula

as a member of the Commonwealth, all the coins feature Queen elizabeth ii

biplane flights, fishing and backcountry horseback treks. if you begin to yearn for the chic comforts of modern life, the Cinema paradiso (paradiso.net.nz), may be the funkiest little picture house in the southern hemisphere, complete with sofas, airline seats and even a yellow morris minor to watch from. an hour and a half’s drive south, Queenstown is indisputably new zealand’s adventure and skiing capital (queenstown-nz.co.nz). if you’ve ever had the urge to chuck yourself off a high bridge, prevented from knocking on the pearly gates only by an elastic cord tied to your ankles, this is the spot. while kawarau, just outside town, may be the location of the original 43m kiwi bungy, nevis, at 134m, is the place to take the leap of faith (bungy.co.nz). and then if you’re not skiing the remarkables (nzski.com) or jet boating (shotoverjet.com) you could try some mountain biking (nzcycletrail.com), canyoning (canyoning.co.nz) or paragliding (nzgforce.com).

£1 = $1.86 (1 august 2011). unfortunately, the pound sterling has been on a downward spiral against the new zealand dollar over the past five years. since 2006, the pound has depreciated by 33%, and around 6.5% in the past 12 months alone. this means that Brits going to nz will receive around nz$66 less for every £500 exchanged compared to this time last year on the other hand, a pint will cost you approximately £2.18 (pintprice.com) travelex Cash passport™ is the only new zealand dollar prepaid currency card available in the uk that doesn’t charge for atm withdrawals or purchases

from Queenstown, head west to milford sound, with its cliffs and waterfalls, or hike along the milford track (doc.govt.nz) before heading east to dunedin, which will be england’s rugby team’s base (dunedinnz.com). this small city gets its buzz from its student population (being the home of speight’s brewery doesn’t hurt either). there are bars and cafes around the ‘square’ known as the octagon, and you can try running up and down

Baldwin street, said to be the world’s steepest, in under 1 minute 56 seconds to break the record. throw in some surfing on st Clair beach and a day trip to the raw beauty of the otago peninsula, with its penguins and seals (natureswonders. co.nz), and you may find yourself spending longer here than you’d anticipated. which is a good way to approach new zealand in general. ‘sweet as, bro’ is the local mantra, the kiwi

take on ‘no worries’. and whichever team ends up victorious at eden park on 23 october, and whenever you choose to visit, new zealand is a pretty sweet place to explore. HT Will Hide flew with Emirates (emirates.com) — daily flights to Auckland on the Airbus A380 and to Christchurch, both via Dubai. For more information on New Zealand, visit newzealand. com, rugbworldcup.com and realnzfestival.com

Emirates flies to Christchurch via Dubai. For details, see heathrow.com/destinations H eath row Travell er 43

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The lounge Te c h

Sunglasses

HeAR me nOw

Recording-studio quality, for your ears only

Destination fashion

M a k e -u p

Fr a g r a n c e

Celebrity-endorsed technology is usually a reliable measure of a product’s lack of quality (if it’s good enough, you generally don’t need an A-list name to persuade customers of its worth). One notable exception is Beats by Dr Dre, the prestige audio brand that benefits from the significant input of the venerated hip-hop producer Dr Dre. The marque’s flagship Studio headphones are a case in point: supremely comfortable, with studio-quality playback, they also feature active noise-reduction circuitry to filter out unwanted sounds – be they those of aircraft engines or over-talkative passengers. Beats by Dr Dre Studio High Definition Powered Isolation Headphones, £245.61, from Heathrow’s Dixons Travel

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley Photography Beate Sonnenberg

He at hrow Travel le r 45

fashion

TickeT To ride

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Whether you’re flying to a beach resort or a busy city, heathrow’s stores offer all you need for a top trip 2

Crete

Relax into island life with lightweight, floral-inspired beachwear that complements the balmy, sun-filled days

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1. Accessorize ‘Ditsy’ back bow trilby £17.02 High Street £20 2. French Connection Orchid dress £114.89 High Street £135 3. Tie Rack block-edged sarong £7.99 4. Accessorize ‘Gallic Knot’ sandals £23.82 High Street £28 5. Mulberry multi-charm bracelet in pale gold £166.67 High Street £200 6. Paul Smith floral-print swimsuit £82.51 High Street £99

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Fashion Arabella Dickie | Illustrations Samuel Rhodes

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Buenos aires Stand out from the crowd in this lively metropolis by experimenting with bold hues and quirky prints

san Diego This laid-back surfing town calls for a wardrobe of bright colours and comfort, with beach-worthy accessories

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16 7. Hackett v-neck jumper £45.73 High Street £55 8. Hugo Boss Green trilby £40 High Street £49.99 9. Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Chrono watch with steel and rubber strap £3,891.67 High Street £4,670 10. Hugo Boss Green shorts £63.99 High Street £73.99 11. Nike Solarsoft flip-flops from JD Sports £12.50 High Street £15

12. Escada Sport top £165.83 High Street £199 13. Links of London ‘Sweetie’ signature 18ct gold ring £625 High Street £750 14. LK Bennett ‘Wilder’ dress £162.50 High Street £195 15. Chopard quartz steel watch at Mappin & Webb £3,241.67 High Street £3,890 16. Kurt Geiger ’Belle‘ peep-toe shoe £144 High Street £180

H eath row Travel ler 47

sunglasses

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Wherever you travel, pack the best in classic eyewear

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1 Vogue embellished round sunglasses £90 High Street £108 2 Burberry check arm sunglasses £140 High Street £169 Tiffany & Co ‘Victoria’ cat’s-eye sunglasses with Austrian crystal £198 High Street £238 4 Prada rectangular frame sunglasses £158 High Street £190 5 Versace crystal detail sunglasses £151 High Street £182

Photography Beate Sonnenberg

The lounge

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Ray-Ban crystal gradient ‘Wayfarer’ sunglasses £100 High Street £120 7 Paul Smith ‘Chaucer’ sunglasses £150 High Street £180 8 Ray-Ban rubberised frame sunglasses £81 High Street £98 9 Persol square acetate sunglasses £179 High Street £215 10 Prada acetate sunglasses £158 High Street £190

H eath row Travell er 49

cosmeTics

Touch &gLow

The best bronzers to give your skin a safe, sunkissed look Forget the obviously fake, ‘newsreader tan’ (that stops at the neck) of bronzing make-up past. The latest bronzers will give your skin the most authentic-looking touch of colour, without a hint of orange and no stripes in sight. Even better, you won’t have to wait until the end of your summer getaway to flaunt that ‘just back from holiday’ glow (and you’ll save yourself any sun damage).

For easy, expert application, opt for a compact bronzing powder.

Mess-free and, so, ideal for travel, they can be swept on with a brush (one that’s large and fluffy – the small ones sometimes supplied are far too fiddly, and can be prone to cause streaks).

Matt bronzers give the most natural-looking finish, whereas shimmery formulas are great for adding a touch of evening sparkle. Dust onto the areas where the sun would naturally hit your face: the apples of the cheeks, bridge of the nose, hairline and (yes) even earlobes.

If you opt for a gel bronzer, simply smooth onto cheeks with your fingertips and blend, or mix a little with your regular moisturiser.

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Words Jenni Baden howard

The lounge Advice

GoinG for Gold these bronzers from World Duty free give a summery glow

Guerlain terracotta Bronzing powder (£29) A 25-year-old classic, this formula comes in a nifty compact, with a range of shades to suit all skin tones.

maC Bronzing powder (£14.88) Beauty pros swear

by MAc bronzing make-up. This powder, part of the new Bronze Everyday range, comes in matte or shimmering shades.

JonAthAn Fenn

Bobbi Brown Bronzing powder in Light (£20.40) The most naturallooking way to glow. You just can’t go wrong with Bobbi’s original bronzing powder.

Cream of the Crop

At home or away, these sunscreens for face and body – available at World duty Free – are essential. equally important, though, is how you apply them For the body, you need to apply the cream or milk liberally, covering your whole body, before you head out to spend the day on the beach or visit the local sights. It’s equally important that you remember to reapply every couple of hours (and always after a dip, or breaking a sweat). Don’t skimp on sunscreen for your face, either: use at least a tablespoon, to ensure your face and neck are adequately covered, and as with body sun protection products, reapply frequently.

Dior Bronze original tan Bronzing powder in healthy tan (£24.55) Pure Parisian chic, this sheer pressed bronzer is embossed with the Dior logo.

Sisley phytotouche Sun Glow Gel (£40.40) Smooth on instant, sunny radiance with this moisturising bronzing gel. great for the shoulders and décolletage, too.

Givenchy mister radiant (£20.50) This new, ‘madeto-measure glow’ contains bronzing beads suspended in a watery gel, which disperse on the skin to deliver a fresh, radiant look.

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Save face Clarins is renowned for its first-class suncare range. this specialist cream combines serious sun protection (it also comes in a UVA/ UVB 50+ version) with innovative anti-ageing ingredients, making it a summer beauty must-have. What’s more, the glide-on texture feels absolutely fabulous on the skin.

Clarins Wrinkle Control Cream for face UVB 30 (£14.15)

Gene genius Lancôme has reintroduced this hi-tech suncare range for summer 2011, following its huge success as a limited edition last year. the formula is the result of Lancôme’s in-depth research into gene activity and skin youthfulness and the damaging effects of the sun on genes.

Lancôme Génifique Sôleil Skin Youth protector Spf 30 or 50 (£18.85) and Skin Youth Body milk Spf 15 or 30 (£18.85)

pass the milk the latest addition to this classic French range, this summerysmelling milk seems to melt on contact with the skin, shielding it with UVA and UVB protection. It also contains Vitamin e to nourish summer skin, and pure thermal plankton, found in every Biotherm formula, from which the company’s brand name is derived.

Biotherm Lait Solaire Spf 30 (£14)

All items available at World Duty Free Heath row Travel le r 51

fragrances

A FAMiLy AFFAiR

creating fine fragrances is a centuries-old tradition for this London perfumer 52

Steeped in tradition, the British perfume house Floris boasts a heritage as romantic as the fragrances themselves. The flagship shop on London’s Jermyn Street (number 89, if you’re passing) is located on the site of the original Floris perfumery, which first opened in 1730.

Nearly three centuries and 17 Royal warrants later, the company is still run by the Floris family. ‘Continuing our tradition as a family business is so important,’ says Tom Marsh, a ninth-generation descendant of founders Juan Famenias Floris and his wife Elizabeth. ‘When I

Words Jenni Baden Howard Words Jenni Baden Howa

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summer BreeZe

Choose a fresh, seasonal scent at World Duty Free

Clockwise from opposite: Michael Bodenham, a descendant of Floris’s founder, working on fragrance in the Sixties; Floris’s granddaughter Mary Anne and her husband in the 1870s; the shopfront; an 18thcentury formula book

was at school, I spent my holidays working in our factory, wrapping soaps and pouring candles. Now it’s my job to sell our products around the world and I feel a special connection to each one’.

Floris fragrances are truly distinctive and have a timeless appeal. ‘We’ve never been influenced by fads,’ admits Tom. ‘We’re confident that the quality and craftsmanship of our creations will endure the test of time. We can spend years working on a fragrance.’

The range includes many fresh, summery florals, such as the beautiful Cefiro (£52; eau de toilette 100ml), a blend of lemon, lime, bergamot, mandarin and spicy notes of cardamom and nutmeg, with a jasmine heart and musky-woody base. ‘It was inspired by the scent of a warm, gentle breeze in a Mediterranean courtyard,’ says Tom. ‘It’s perfect to wear on a balmy summer day’.

The Floris Private Collection, created by in-house perfumer

Shelagh Foyle and produced in small batches, is comprised of the company’s most prestigious fragrances. ‘It gives us a chance to create unique compositions using rare and unusual fragrance oils,’ explains Shelagh. These include Madonna Of The Almonds (£72; eau de parfum 100ml), a beautiful, summery mix of citrus notes, bergamot, lemon, bitter almond kernel and spices; the oriental, spicysweet Amaryllis (£72; eau de parfum 100ml); and Wedding Bouquet (£72; eau de parfum 100ml), a white floral bouquet of jasmine, orange blossom and stephanotis with a sandalwood and musk base, created to celebrate the marriage of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

‘Right now, we’re working on a new fragrance to celebrate the Olympics in 2012,’ reveals Tom. ‘We want to create something that embodies the spirit of Britishness to celebrate this once-in-a-lifetime event’. HT

Marc Jacobs Oh, Lola! eau de toilette (£37.55) This new fruity-floral ‘opens’ with raspberry, has a heart of peony and a sensual base including vanilla.

Summer, bottled.

Escada Especially Escada (£44.80) Top notes such as pear and ambrette seeds combine with a sparkling rose heart, sensual ylang-ylang and a light, musky base.

Sophisticated sunshine for the whole season.

Prada Infusion d’Iris eau de parfum 100ml (£54.55) This modern classic is based on iris, with top notes of orange blossom and mandarin, a green freshness and sensual incense, vetiver and sandalwood.

Cartier Baiser Volé eau de parfum 100ml (£74.28) This long-awaited, beautifully fresh floral fragrance from Cartier captures the complex scent of the calla lily.

With a name that means ‘stolen kiss’, this scent is sure to evoke the strongest feelings.

Bulgari Charms – Rose Essentielle 25ml (£27.50) Inspired by Bulgari’s cut gemstones, this handbag -sized spray contains the delicate Bulgari Rose Essentielle fragrance, with notes of rose, blackberry and violet leaves.

Sisley Eau de Sisley 3 eau de parfum (£75.20) Uplifting cologne top notes reveal an exotic heart of purple ginger and Chinese osmanthus and an elegant base featuring patchouli, vetiver, vanilla and musk.

All fragrances are available at World Duty Free rd

H eath row Travel ler 5 3

city sprint Business in Frankfurt and DĂźsseldorf

Top tablets

Culturally endowed Kathy Arnold on how Frankfurt has loosened its tie

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Munich’s beer gardens

Clockwise from left: Frankfurt’s telecoms tower; Römerberg, the old city square that is a hub for celebrations and relaxation throughout the year

With its heavyweight banks, trade fairs and conference facilities, Frankfurt am Main has long been a fabulous city in whichto do business. But over the past two decades, the city of Goethe has traded some of its starched collars and dress suits for something a little more bohemian. Think fine art, opera, half a dozen Michelin-starred restaurants, tree-filled parks and pedestrianised boulevards.

Despite its importance as one of the world’s major financial and exhibition centres, the city is relatively small and very easy to get around. The airport is minutes from the downtown area and the integrated RNV system (trains, trams, buses connecting the centre to the airport, nearby villages etc) is covered on day passes or a group ticket (useful if you do business mob-handed).

In Frankfurt itself, the Messe, one of the world’s leading trade fair grounds, lies close to the business district, where a giant blue and gold euro symbol on Willy-Brandt-Platz marks the headquarters of the European Central Bank. It is one of some 270 banks here, with a roll call including the European Representation office for the Asian

Worldpoints bonus EARN BA MILES AT HEATHROW WITH WORLDPOINTS WorldPoints – the loyalty programme that rewards passengers when they shop at Heathrow and other BAA airports – has partnered with British Airways to enable members to redeem points for BA Miles.Members receive one WorldPoint for every £1 they spend in shops, bars, restaurants and car parks, and each point will now be redeemable for one BA Mile. This is in addition to other WorldPoints benefits, such as discounts on car parking, Heathrow Express bookings and airport shop vouchers.

To become a WorldPoints member and receive 100 complimentary WorldPoints, visit heathrow.com/worldpoints

Development Bank. Leading the homegrown giants are Deutsche Bank and Commerzbank, whose skyscraper headquarters rival one another for sleek elegance. It’s no surprise that in this city of 680,000 inhabitants, some 72,000 – over 10 per cent – work in the financial sector.

An emphasis on business and finance is no modern phenomenon. Sitting astride the River Main, a major tributary of the Rhine, Frankfurt has been at the crossroads of commerce for 800 years.

Its first international trade fair was held in 1240; the Frankfurt stock exchange dates back to 1585; and two centuries later, Mayer Rothschild and his five sons revolutionised banking as they expanded their business across Europe.

The hub of the action is a hotel: the Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof. Its luxurious rooms host the decision makers, its Michelin-starred Restaurant Français feeds them in style, and even at breakfast, the buzz is of clients and contracts. For the mega marketplace that is the annual Frankfurt Book Fair (mid-October), the hotel’s lounge is transformed into a champagne bar, jammed with authors and agents

negotiating with publishers and media moguls from around the globe.

High above the intensity of Frankfurt’s business dealings is the breezy, outdoor observation platform on the 54th floor of the Main Tower.

From here, the panorama stretches north to the Taunus Mountains, where the most successful executives live in posh villages, and southwest to the football stadium. Around the tower stands an array of skyscrapers unusual in Continental Europe and gives rise to the city’s nickname of ‘Main-hattan’.

Next to these is Frankfurt’s historic heart, the cobbled, medieval Römerberg square. Around it are landmarks in German history: the cathedral where kings and kaisers were crowned for 450 years; the childhood home of Goethe, with the poet’s writing desk; and Paulskirche. Known as the cradle of German democracy, St Paul’s Church housed sessions of the country’s first elected parliament, 163 years ago.

But Frankfurt today offers more than business and heritage. The 2006 FIFA World Cup and 2011 Women’s World Cup put it on the sporting stage. As for the expanding cultural scene, there are

Heathrow Traveller 55

city sprint From top: Frankfurt’s Museumsufer or Museum Embankment; MyZeil shopping centre

HeatHrow traveller’s cHoice

stay STEIGENBERGER FRANKFURTER HOF Am Kaiserplatz steigenberger.com/en 280 luxurious rooms, 41 suites, Michelin-starred restaurant

Talk to locals and you will hear how the city has changed. Some highlight the ever-improving food scene that now offers light, modern cooking as well as sausages and beer. Others point out that the city, which prides itself on being open-minded and used to foreigners, is now one of Europe’s most multicultural. The upshot is that, where 20 years ago, young people packed their bags and left town on a Friday night, now they pack their own city guides. HT Kathy Arnold flew to Frankfurt with Lufthansa (lufthansa.com), which flies direct from Heathrow up to 11 times a day.

JUMEIRAH FRANKFURT 2 Thurn-und-Taxis Platz jumeirah.com/frankfurt Frankfurt’s newest hotel, with 218 guest rooms and suites

eat EMMA METZLER At the Museum for Applied Arts emma-metzler.com Inventive modern German dishes HOLBEIN’S STädEL MUSEUM holbeins.de Asian/Mediterranean influences, contemporary setting VILLA MERTON 12 Am Leonhardsbrunn koflerkompanie.com/en/ Michelin-starred cooking, private mansion ambience

Drink CIGARRUM Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof, 1 Kaiserstrasse steigenberger.com/en Cuban cigars and 50 types of rum 22Nd LOUNGE Innside Eurotheum, 66-68 Neue Mainzer Strasse innside.de 110m up, great for views, cocktails and jazz

Lufthansa and BA fly direct to Frankfurt. See heathrow.com/destinations for details 56

ALAMY; GETTY IMAGES: © TOURISMUS+CONGRESS GMBH FRANKFURT AM MAIN

concerts, theatre and opera, festivals and major art exhibitions (kulturfrankfurt.de). What used to be a Monday-to-Friday city now blossoms at weekends. On Saturday, shops are bustling, particularly on the broad Zeil, the main shopping street and one of the major pedestrian areas. The green belt of parks that follows the line of the ancient fortifications is perfect for a stroll, while the tree-shaded river embankments attract runners and rollerbladers, cyclists and families.

Museumsufer, on the southern bank of the Main, rivals the museum quarters of London and Vienna. Here, must-sees include the Liebieghaus, with 5,000 years of sculpture from around the world, and the Städel, home to one of Europe’s most significant art collections.

Alongside are museums dedicated to architecture and film, applied arts and telecommunications. Behind Museumsufer lies Sachsenhausen, a suburb with apartments and villas, plus trendy cafés, boutiques and traditional taverns serving Apfelwein (cider).

More changes are afoot. Next up is the shiny new home for the European Central Bank, not in the financial district, but in Frankfurt’s developing East End. Following suit, entrepreneurial chef Kay Exenberger has already opened his Werkskantine restaurant (exenbergerfrankfurt.de) at the nearby Klassikstadt.

VILLA KENNEdY 70 Kennedyallee villakennedy.com Century-old villa, 163 modern rooms, fine Italian restaurant

From top: The Rheinturn f rom across the water; one of Frank Gehry’s MedienHafen buildings

Harbour heights Striking architecture and a lively new quay give Düsseldorf a cool edge on business There is no better spot to appreciate the ‘new’ Düsseldorf than from the observation deck of the Rheinturm (Rhine Tower), 170 metres (558 feet) tall and overlooking the city’s hip new MedienHafen, or Media Harbour.

The capital of the federal state of North Rhine-Westphalia, Düsseldorf is nicknamed the ‘Office of the Ruhr’, because of its proximity to the country’s industrial heartland. But, it is also the hub of Germany’s advertising and fashion industries – and the city itself is clean and green, affluent and chic.

The Königsallee, known simply as the Kö, is one of Europe’s grandest shopping boulevards (koenigsallee-duesseldorf. de). Hosting the 2011 Eurovision Song Contest alerted foreign media to charms that locals take for granted. after all, in the mercer’s Quality of living Survey, Düsseldorf is rated not only the No 1 city in Germany, but also No 6 in the world. much of that is down to the imaginative redevelopment of the Words Paul Wade 58

MedienHafen. When the docks closed down 30 years ago, the city fathers were faced with two choices: raze the buildings and start anew, or convert the existing docklands into restaurants, shops, homes and offices. They chose a third way: creating a business area featuring eye-catching buildings by world-famous architects, while still retaining the heritage of the old quay walls, storage sheds and rail tracks.

The crowning glory was Frank Gehry’s

much-photographed trio of twisted red, white and shiny aluminium apartments, dating from 1999.

On a fine day, the quaysides are busy with architectural walking tours and fashion shoots. Indoors, some 700 businesses include creative software and film companies, interior designers, art galleries and fashion showrooms.

Vodafone’s German headquarters, QVC TV and Ogilvy & mather advertising are here, as is Germany’s business daily, Das Handelsblatt. Düsseldorf’s fashionable credentials were endorsed when Heidi Klum presented a round of Germany’s Next Top Model 2011 there. Press officer Tanja Güss says, ‘The medienHafen is the perfect place to work. With everyone so close, it’s easy to network after hours.’ as for where to meet, the range is wide and growing fast. For 15 years, Roberts Bistro (robertsbistro.de) with its ‘no credit card, no reservation’ policy reigned. Now, new options include Lido (lido1960.de), a stylish floating eaterie, and the michelin-starred Berens am Kai (berensamkai.de), serving modern French cuisine. Two of Germany’s coolest night spots, Club 3001 (d-3001.de) and Rudas Studios (rudasstudios.de), are here. and the new kid on the block for business travellers is the Hyatt Regency Düsseldorf (dusseldorf.regency.hyatt. com), where high-tech facilities combine with dramatic views over the city.

Back in 1988, the opening of the shiny black North Rhine-Westphalia Parliament building kick-started the revamping of the harbour. Today, the medienHafen has changed the face of business life in Düsseldorf. In its virtually car-free environment, old and new rub shoulders. long-abandoned cranes stand like art installations; a converted malt house and Victorian villa offset architect David Chipperfield’s studio building and Colorium, Will Allsop’s riot of mondrian-inspired colours and shapes housing offices. most fun has to be the ‘Flossies’ – the larger-than-life, neon figures that seem be climbing out of the canal and up the walls of an office block.

It’s clearly party time in Düsseldorf. HT Paul Wade flew to Düsseldorf with Lufthansa, which flies direct from Heathrow up to five times a day

British Airways and Lufthansa both fly direct to Düsseldorf

alamy

city sprint

City sprint

Drink in the sun

Munich is famous for its Oktoberfest. But if you prefer your beer without an 18-year-old backpacker falling in it, a relaxing beer garden is better than a messy festival tent

AugusTinerKeLLer Arnulfstrasse, Munich

1 cHinesicHer TurM englischer garten, Munich

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The huge Englischer Garten, with its meadows and woodlands, is both the lungs and heart of Munich. However, as naturist sunbathing is allowed here, it may be other body parts you spot first. In one of the most popular beer gardens, beneath the Chinese pagoda, Hofräu beer is served. There is also an upmarket restaurant. chinaturm.de

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KLosTerBrAuerei AndecHs Bergstrasse, Andechs

If you have time, a pilgrimage to Kloster Andechs is a lovely way to spend a sunny day. Fifty minutes on the S-Bahn to Herrsching is followed by an hour’s walk to the monastery and its terrace beer garden, with views over fields towards Ammersee. Enjoy a concert in the baroque church, as well as drinking a doppelbock (strong dark beer) or two, with spirals of salted radish. andechs.de

3

pAuLAner AM nocKHerBerg Hochstrasse, Munich

The city’s finest helles (lager) is probably Augustiner’s Edelstoff – and they do a pretty mean dunkelbier (dark beer), too. Augustiner’s railway-side location may not seem promising, but in fact it has a tranquil garden with a canopy of chestnut trees. Accompany your beer with brezen (soft pretzels) and half a roast chicken. augustinerkeller.de

Paulaner’s Braühaus in the centre of town has a great reputation for its onsite-brewed beers: its hefeweizen (cloudy wheat beers) are among the best in the world. However, it only has a small beer garden, so to enjoy a speciality beer in the sun (particularly the Nockherberger, only available here), go to the Paulaner beer garden. nockherberg.com

5 WeiHensTepHAn BreWery Weihenstephanerberg, Freising

6 HirscHgArTen Hirschgartenallee, Munich

Founded in 1040, Weihenstephan can claim to be the world’s oldest continually operating brewery. Located in Freising, it is handier for the airport than the city-centre beer gardens. Work up a thirst with a 20-minute woodland walk up the hill, and be rewarded with a lovely terrace beer garden overlooking the countryside and town. They also do a fascinating brewery tour. weihenstephaner.de

Nymphenburg, with its baroque villas and vast green spaces, is well worth a visit. As well as the palace’s formal park and gardens, there is the old hunting ground, the Königlicher Hirschgarten.

Nowadays the deer are safe from royal weapons; visitors can just watch them as they (the visitors, not the deer) head to Europe’s largest beer garden, and Munich’s most family-oriented one. hirschgarten.com

British Airways and Lufthansa fly to Munich. For details go to heathrow.com/destinations Words Chris Madigan

Heath row Travel ler 59

city sprint

2

3

1

eASy PC Portable computing has never been simpler, thanks to the new wave of tablets

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1

2

3

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Motorola XooM

HTC Flyer

Apple iPAd 2

BlackBerry PlAyBook

Billed as a tablet for the ‘next, next generation’, the Xoom runs on Android’s bespoke Honeycomb software, providing users with access to hundreds of thousands of apps (from email to 3D maps).

The 10.1in HD screen is the ideal hub for viewing media including ebooks and YouTube videos, while web browsing is a breeze because of the inclusion of Adobe Flash support. £444.44

With 32GB of expandable memory, stereo speakers, a camcorder and Wi-Fi printing, this Android-powered tablet is primed to keep you going around the clock, while the inclusion of a ‘magic’ touchpen lets you explore your artistic side, take freehand notes and even sign digital documents. The result: a versatile tablet for both business and leisure use. £555.55

Slimmer, lighter, brighter and faster, the iPad 2 has thrown down the proverbial gauntlet to its rivals with its front and rear cameras, 9.7in LED display, multi-touch controls and 10hr battery life.

Its other specs include a new and improved iOS operating system and an optional magnetic screen cover that doubles as a table-stand.

From £387.86 (16GB, Wi-Fi) to £640.49 (64GB, Wi-Fi & 3G)

For BlackBerry addicts, this offers the best of both worlds. Or, to put it another way, instant syncing with that email lifeline you rely on 24/7, combined with a 7in HD touchscreen that’s great for web surfing, watching films and playing video games. And with a 1GHz processor and 1GB of RAM, you can hop between apps, messaging and multimedia without delay.

From £380 (16GB) to £533.32 (64GB)

All products available at Heathrow’s Dixons Travel. Subject to availability

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Words Henry Farrar-Hockley Photography Danny Bird

Book yourself a quiet seat With the best-ever noise reducing headphones from Bose

QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones ®

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NEW! Control for your Apple products*

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Next time you fl y, take a train or need to escape from the bustle of a busy office, put on a pair of QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones. In an instant you’ll hear less noise than ever before and more of your music and movies. With the quality sound you expect from Bose and a fi t that stays comfortable for hours the QC 15 headphones from Bose set a new standard unmatched in the industry. ®

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headphones

reduce more of the unwanted sounds around you. New materials in our proprietary-designed ear cushions establish a critical acoustical seal – helping to reduce noise further while providing a comfortable fit. Even if you’re familiar with Bose Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones you’ll immediately hear the difference. And if you’ve never worn a pair before, nothing will prepare you for the experience. ®

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Upgrade to the QuietComfort 15 Acoustic Noise Cancelling headphones.

We don’t think there’s another headphone or headset that can match the capabilities of the QC 15 – and invite you to judge their performance for yourself. Ask for a demonstration at the Bose store in Regent Street or Dixons Travel stores at Heathrow. You’ll be able to discover the peace, quiet and comfort they offer and enjoy your music with a clarity, detail and richness of sound you might never have experienced before. Book yourself a quiet seat – with the best-ever noise reducing headphones from Bose. ®

The headphones that pioneered an industry are now even better.

Since inventing noise cancelling headphones over 20 years ago Bose has followed a programme of continuous research. QuietComfort 15 headphones now use microphones both inside and outside each ear cup to sense and ®

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Available from the Bose store in Regent Street, London or Dixons Travel Heathrow T1, T3, T4 & T5 ®

or direct from Bose by calling FREE on

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quoting reference 12566 Opening times: Mon-Fri 9:00am – 6:30pm Sat & Sun: 10:00am – 5:00pm.

Or for a free information pack Text ‘Bose12566’ to 64118 Visit: www.bose.co.uk/QC15 or go to your local authorised Bose dealer ®

©2011 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. *Available for select Apple products; the remote and mic are supported only by iPod nano (4th generation and later), iPod classic (120GB, 160GB only), iPod touch (2nd generation and later), iPhone 3GS, iPhone 4, iPad and 2009 models or later of MacBook and MacBook Pro. The remote is supported by iPod shuffle (3rd generation and later). Audio is supported by all iPod models. Apple, iPhone, iPod, iPod touch, iPod nano, iPod shuffle, iPod classic, MacBook and iPad are trademarks of Apple inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. „Made for iPod/iPhone/ iPad” means that an electronic accessory has been designed to connect specifically to iPod/iPhone/iPad and has been certified by the developer to meet Apple performance standards. Apple is not responsible for the operation of this device or its compliance with safety and regulatory standards. Registered in England no 1187672. Registered Office: Bose Ltd, 1 Ambley Green, Gillingham Business Park, Gillingham , Kent ME8 0NJ.

D E pa rt u r E s Awards

Airport News

Olympics: London 2012

Food & Drink

A Day in the Life Olympic diver Tom Daley is immortalised using wire mesh by artist Nikki Taylor

Wire poWer

Olympic art comes to terminal 5 Nikki Taylor’s mesmerising sculpture of Olympic diver Tom Daley is now on display at Heathrow’s Terminal 5 as part of an exhibition to honour Britain’s top athletes.

Taylor works with wire mesh.

‘Its gravity-defying quality allows me to explore my fascination with the human form, and capture its movement and dynamism’,

she says. To create this sculpture, she photographed Daley from all angles, taking detailed measurements, then worked surrounded by these pictures and live-action footage to evoke the strength and elegance of the athlete.

Sport and art are united in this celebration of British talent. ‘It is an honour and tremendous thrill to be part of it,’ affirms Taylor. The sculptures, commissioned by the Art at the Edge group, are on sale to raise money for the Youth Sport Trust and Paralympics GB. artattheedge.org

He athrow Travel l er 63

hea throw ne w s

keep up to date wIth the aIrport

Heathrow gets a new hotel, installs e-gates, and asks the neighbours round

more reasons to stay over A new hotel and bar come to Terminal 5

Early start? Why not begin your holiday sooner and check in at the stylish new Hilton at Heathrow T5? Each spacious room comes with a 37in flat-screen TV, lavish bathroom and triple glazing.

Book a treatment in the new spa, follow it with dinner at Mr Todiwala’s Kitchen (from TV Chef Cyrus Todiwala), and you have all the ingredients for a perfect night’s sleep.

Elsewhere at Heathrow, the Radisson Edwardian Hotel has just added a dose of West End style with the addition of its new Bijou Bar. To book one of these hotels go to heathrow.com/book

heathrow welcomes the world You are invited to help us as host airport

The London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games are nearly here and Heathrow is preparing to greet thousands of athletes, sports fans and journalists from around the world. Now you can be part of history in the making: Heathrow is inviting you to give a warm welcome to the UK’s international guests.

The role of volunteers will be to meet and greet VIPs on their arrival at Heathrow, which has been

awarded host airport status, and then to oversee their departure when the Olympics come to an end.

Nick Cole, head of Games 2012 at the airport, said, ‘Heathrow will form the first and last memory of visitors to London 2012, so it’s important that we find the right ambassadors to welcome our international passengers. It will be incredibly exciting work, but also hugely rewarding and

an experience that will never be forgotten.’

There will be a welcome event at Wembley Stadium for all volunteers, and they will receive specialist training at Heathrow. Volunteers can select shifts and choose the amount of time they can devote to the programme, as well as receiving special perks and prizes.

If you’re interested in volunteering, find out more at visitteamheathrow.com

t r e At y o u r s e l f s o o t h e t i r e d f e e t w i t h a f i r s t o r C l a s s i c p e d i c u r e a t B e relax spa and get 30 per cent off a first or Classic manicure. Why not try a Be up acupressu re massage a nd d isper se f light tension? berela x.com 64 64

Illustration Samuel Rhodes words Rosie Steer, Tanya Jackson, Sarah Evans

D e pa r t u r e s

Money for nothing Virgin Atlantic passenger s can now benef it f rom 0% commission on all currency exchanged at American express at heathrow a n d e a r n o n e VA f l y i n g C l u b m i l e f o r e v e r y £ 1 . v i r g i n a t l a n t i c . c o m /c u r r e n c y

news In BrIef

chip, then the gate opens in seconds. You need to be over 18 and have an e-Passport issued by a European Economic Area country. ukba. homeoffice.gov.uk

a greener heathrow Thinking about tomorrow, today

hour power British Airways has teamed up with its partner airline American Airlines to create an hourly ‘shuttle service’ between London and New York during peak travel times.

Previously, the daily flight schedule to NY from Heathrow left gaps of up to three hours between some departures.

Passengers can now catch a flight every hour

on the hour, between 13:00 and 20:00.

easy arrivals Heathrow’s new e-Passport gates offer an alternative to conventional passport checks.

Scanning your e-Passport at the barrier initiates a face-recognition check against your passport

waste not…

Binned perfume at security gates may soon be a thing of the past with Heathrow’s new ‘MailandFly’ service, which gives passengers the chance to post their items to anywhere in the world. Trials at T5 have been positive. Charges vary according to size and weight.

One of Heathrow’s key priorities is to reduce its carbon footprint, which is why cooking oil from the site’s many catering firms is being converted into biodiesel.

With more than 250,000 people being catered for at Heathrow each day, the safe disposal of cooking oil has always been a challenge.

It is important to ensure it doesn’t obstruct pipes or pollute water courses.

Converting the oil into biodiesel both solves this problem and creates a more sustainable alternative to using fossil fuels in diesel vehicles. Of the 100 per cent

of waste cooking oil that is currently recycled at the airport, 85 per cent is being recycled as biofuel – enough energy to drive a car around the Earth’s circumference 20 times – and the plan is to increase this conversion amount to 100 per cent.

In addition, charging points for electric cars have been installed at short-stay car parks at Terminals 1, 3, 4 and 5. The move is part of the airport’s collaboration with Transport for London, through the Source London programme launched by the Mayor to decarbonise the capital’s vehicle fleet.

H eath row Travell er 65

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a day in the life of heathrow airPort Stowaway scorpions and Hollywood stars’ mongrels are just a few of the creatures that Heathrow’s animal attendants can encounter at work, as one of them explains

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Photography Sam Christmas interview Maria Yacoob

D e pa r t u r e s

Ann Dallimore Animal Attendant at the Heathrow Animal Reception Centre I’m part of a team of 25 staff at the Heathrow Animal Reception Centre.

We’re responsible for looking after all the animals in transit through the airport. Between 20 and 40 animals come through our reception each day.

The best thing about my job is the unpredictability. We handle a lot of zoo transfers, so I see an amazing variety of animals. A few days ago we had three wolf cubs passing through on their way to a conservation centre. Although they were wild, the cubs had been hand-reared so they were very tame – and very cute.

Not long ago we had a fully grown black rhino stay the night with us. It had come on a cargo plane from Australia, and was headed for a zoo over here. We see a lot of tigers and lions, quite a few of which are circus rescues.

The only animals I’m not keen on are spiders and scorpions. They’re sent to the UK for zoos, or to be sold as pets. They arrive in cases that hold up to 200 spiders in separate compartments. You wouldn’t want one of those to open up!

The majority of our visitors are pet cats or dogs in transit.

We have a fair few celebrity dogs that we see once or twice a year. My favourite is Kevin Spacey’s dog – a little mongrel terrier called Minnie. Orlando Bloom’s black Labrador cross, Siddy, is also a regular visitor. We don’t see the owners though, as it’s the agents who come to pick the dogs up. Because

animals have to be certified fit to travel by a vet before they make their journey, health problems are very few and far between. But on very rare occasions, pets do die in transit, just because they’re old. And I have had to relay that news to the owners. It’s heartbreaking.

Most of the animals that come to see us only stay a few hours, but there are those that stay a lot longer. If the correct paperwork isn’t in place, we can keep animals for a few weeks.

We also have some resident reptiles, which we use for animal handling courses. We’ve got six big snakes (all pythons and constrictors), a caiman, a snapping turtle and a gang of frogs.

Several snakes are resident at Heathrow, and are used for animal handling training

There was even an instance where one of our staff adopted an animal. It was a stray cat that had been knocked down by a car outside the airport. We brought her in and the vet saw to her injuries.

My colleague ended up paying the bill and taking the cat, which she named Boris, home with her.

It’s very rare that animals are smuggled in. There have been occasions when someone has kept a tortoise in their pocket through a flight, and one horrific tale of someone stuffing some birds into a tube and putting it in their bag. But smugglers are more interested in ivory and skins than live animals.

I have had to deal with a couple of stowaways. And once, customs stopped a man whose case had a white powdery substance on it.

When they opened up the case to look, the powder turned out to be nothing, but a small brown scorpion scuttled out from the bottom of the case. I was called to deal with it. I managed to push it into a pot with a long stick. When my manager saw it he said it was a very dangerous variety.

What does often happen is companies go over their quotas with shipments of reptiles.

In those cases customs deal with the excess animals, but I know a lot of them end up at a rescue centre in Hounslow called the Tropical Forest.

I’ve been here for 10 years now, and a full-time animal attendant can earn up to £27,000. Staff changes are few and far between.

Personally, I can’t see myself anywhere else. HT

H eath row Trave ll er 67

re f re shment s

where to eat with your children

Travelling with members of your family? The Journey Team is on hand to help you get the most out of Heathrow’s fantastic food and drink offering Simply follow the coloured lines to discover andriana Dubrova’s recommendations for food and drink in whichever Heathrow terminal you’re travelling through

t1

giraffe Whatever your taste, Giraffe’s global menu and feel-good family atmosphere is sure to satisfy. Children particularly enjoy the fact that they can eat with a view over the runway.

Andriana Dubrova Heathrow Journey Team Travelling with kids presents special challenges, but this summer at Heathrow we’ve pulled out all the stops to get your holiday off to the best start. Flight information is easily obtained on the move via the Heathrow App and Twitter (twitter.com/ heathrowairport). At the airport there are extra staff for baggage collection, and we offer a service where you can reserve and collect baby food and milk with your other shopping (heathrow. com/reserve). Here are my top recommended familyfriendly restaurants and cafés – from quirky settings and fun games, to menus to suit picky eaters, there’s something for even the most demanding of mini travellers.

t3 Pret a manger Fill up on Pret’s fresh, natural fare before check-in. There are plenty of healthy options for even the fussiest of kids to enjoy such as soups, smoothies and home-made treats.

arrive

t4

dining street En route to gates 1-6 take a break in the spacious and familyfriendly Dining Street restaurant. Offering traditional British fare as well as kids’ deals, it’s the ideal spot for a pit stop.

t5

Key: terminal 1 terminal 3 terminal 4 terminal 5

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caffè nero Caffè Nero has its own play area to keep tots amused while parents can sit back and enjoy gourmet coffee and authentic Italian food in this European-style coffee emporium.

illustration Samuel Rhodes

D e pa r t u r e S

dining street

From cooked breakfasts to quirky décor, Dining Street boasts the best of Britain

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take off the tin goose Named after the first all-metal aeroplane, The Tin Goose is a family-friendly, kooky venue that offers gastropubstyle food and a children’s menu the kids can colour in.

there are more than 200 classic British pictures adorning the walls take off the three Bells Relax and unwind at The Three Bells before check-in. This bar and restaurant has the cosy feel of someone’s front room, traditional British food, quick and discreet service and popular kids’ offers.

take off café rouge Dine French style chez Café Rouge, located near the entrance of T4. Enjoy light meals from its summer menu, while kids’ offers and play packs keep the wee ones entertained.

take off gordon ramsay’s Plane food Watch the air traffic below through the all-glass front of Gordon Ramsay’s hit T5 restaurant. Kids will be entertained with plane spotting and drawing packs.

See page 73 for a list of your eating and drinking options

Enter past the majestic red horse and iconic telephone box and take your seat below the series of photographs celebrating classic British icons and historic events. Welcome to Dining Street – home of British eccentricity.

Feast on the best of British, from Spitfire ale pie with creamy mash or succulent beef burgers to roasted English goat’s cheese salad. Alternatively, sample its Brick Lane menu, which showcases the diversity of cultures and tastes the country has to offer — the sweet potato, chickpea and spinach curry is a much-loved best seller.

Dining Street is located in Terminal 4.

5,000 children enjoyed colouring in the special kids’ menus over the past 12 months

40% the percentage of produce and packaging recycled

30,000

More than 30,000 British breakfasts were served in the past year — the most popular menu item

4,000

Last year, it served 4,000kg of bacon – that’s the weight of six old Mini Coopers!

He at hrow Travel l er 69

a i rport map s

Find your way around the airport

There are more than 240 retailers at Heathrow, so, with so much choice on offer, you might need a helping hand finding shops, eateries and, when it’s time to fly, your gate. Walk this way…

Terminal 1

GATES 16-21

GATES 16-21 GATES 31-49 1-12 60-90

1-12 60-90

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GATES 31-49

D e pa r T u r e s

Terminal 3

Terminal 4

Subject to change. Many great new stores opening soon

H eath row Travell er 7 1

Terminal 5

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Manicure and massage

Be Relax

Terminal 5b

Terminal 5C Look out for the following stores in terminal 5c...

• Boots • Starbucks • WH Smith • World Duty Free Plus: • ATM • British Airways Customer services and more

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D e pa r T u r e s

Directory

Navigate your way around some of the best fashion, food and travel services that the world’s busiest airport has to offer with this A-Z guide Shopping 2012 London Store Accessorize Bally Barbour Beauty Studio Be Relax Spa Boots Burberry Bulgari Cartier Cath Kidston Chanel Chocolate Box Clarks Cocoon Collection Dior Dixons Travel Ermenegildo Zegna Escada Etro Fat Face French Connection Glorious Britain Gucci Hamleys Hackett Harrods Hermès HMV Hugo Boss JD Sports Jimmy Choo Jo Malone

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

Shopping Longchamp MAC Mappin & Webb Michael Kors Montblanc Mulberry Nokia Omega Paul Smith Paul Smith Globe Prada Ralph Lauren Menswear Reiss Rituals Roberto Cavalli Rolling Luggage Salvatore Ferragamo Simply Chocolate Smythson Sunglass Hut Swarovski Ted Baker The Perfume Gallery Thomas Pink Tie Rack Tiffany & Co Timberland Tumi Valentino Watches of Switzerland WHSmith WHSmith Books World Duty Free World of Whiskies

Kurt Geiger Links of London

LK Bennett

Subject to change. Many great new stores opening soon

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

FooD & Drink AMT coffee Apostrophe Bagel Street* Bridge Bar & Eating House Caffe Italia* Caffe Nero Caviar House & Prunier Caviar House & Oyster bar Chez Gerard Costa Dining Street EAT Est Garfunkels Giraffe Harlequin Alehouse Huxleys Bar & Kitchen Itsu JD Wetherspoon Pret A Manger

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

Gordon Ramsay Plane Food

Rhubarb Starbucks Strada** Tin Goose VBar Wagamama Yo! Sushi

currency American Express Thomas Cook Travelex

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

ServiceS Boingo Wireless Internet Shoeshine Spit and Polish

T1 T3 T4 T5 T5b T5c

* T3 stores closing 2 September ** Opening September

More than words heathrow ’s stationer and newsagent whsmith plan to r e v a m p i t s s h o p s w i t h n e w s e l f- s e r v i c e t i l l s , m e e t- a n d - g r e e t e v e n t s a n d olympic Games celebrations. staff will be on hand to assist in all areas.

H eath row Trave ll er 73

Final call

Sign of the times

How is it you’re able to find your way through the airport quickly?

It’s all down to the considered art of wayfinding

Heathrow has always been one of the most challenging and complex environments in the world in which to move people around. Factor in the

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The Transport font in use at Heathrow during the Eighties and (inset) today’s airport typeface

made the most intriguing and important contribution.

From the late Sixties, the airport’s signs used a radical new font called, suitably enough, Transport. Created

by Englishman Jock Kinneir and South African Margaret Calvert, the typeface was initially designed to allow motorway drivers to read place names swiftly and

easily, from a distance, at speed. It rapidly became the standard font for a range of international transport bodies, including, in the UK, British Rail and at Heathrow.

Heathrow changed its signage font in 1992 to the bespoke BAA Sign, a form of the classical Bembo typeface.

The new font was, like many successful typefaces, functionally conspicuous yet creatively subtle.

Prompted by the building of Terminal 5 in 2008, Heathrow now employs a version of the Frutiger font, which many designers believe is the finest ever made for signs and directions. It’s the font of choice of public

institutions: universities, the NHS, and especially airports.

In his engaging recent book on fonts, Just My Type, Simon Garfield acknowledges this by nicknaming Frutiger as ‘World Airport’.

It’s possible the Heathrow font will change again in the near future, due to growing exposure to all the fonts in pull-down menus on computers and tablets, and the general ‘screenification’ of modern communication.

‘There is a fashion as well as function element to wayfinding,’ says Michael Wolff. ‘They may rarely be noticed, but fonts and sign design deftly mirror the feeling of the age.’ HT

Words Phillip Watson

BAA PICTURE LIBRARY

demands of multilingual and international passengers; relatively restricted and visually complicated spaces; a large number of connecting flights; and increased levels of airport stress, urgency and emotion; and you have a potentially febrile mix.

The largely unsung art of wayfinding, or signage, exists to take the pain out of all this departing and arriving. Over the past 50 years, wayfinding designers at Heathrow have developed an ingeniously clear, concise and consistent system of signs, lettering, fonts, symbols, arrows and pictograms – information that can be read quickly, accurately and at an angle.

‘Airports, and Heathrow in particular, are incredibly visually complex places,’ says Michael Wolff, former head of wayfinding at Heathrow and chairman of the Sign Design Society. ‘Airport wayfinding has to compete with such things as shop signs, airline logos, even the physical details of fixtures and fittings. Heathrow is so information-rich.’

While Heathrow’s signs have long been illuminated, and are enhanced by a striking colour combination of black and yellow, it is the area of fonts that has often

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