Secret London Quirky museums, pop-up eateries and exciting events… Discover the capital that most visitors rarely experience
Sand sculptures on the riverbank at the Mayor’s Thames Festival
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intriguing eventS Exhibitions, festivals and assorted happenings thames Festival this free event has activities running all the way along the thames from tower Bridge
to Westminster Bridge. Highlights include a night carnival, a communal dining table over Southwark Bridge, a parade of historical boats and a fantastic firework finale. 10-11 September. thamesfestival.org Olympic test events A number of world-class sporting events are taking place in the capital this summer, in order to test operations and try out the
new facilities in the run-up to London 2012. the new Olympic Park and existing venues will play host to archery, cycling, boxing, basketball and table tennis events, among others. londonpreparesseries.com tickets at ticketmaster.co.uk. Frieze Art Fair this annual modern art fair, held in the elegant surroundings of Regent’s Park, is one of the world’s
most important, challenging showcases of emerging and established talent from around the world. Attracting more than 170 international galleries, along with buyers, culture’s leading lights and celebrities, Frieze is an unmissable event on any contemporary art lover’s calendar. Check the website for details of exhibition tours, talks and film screenings. 13-16 October. friezeartfair.com
For details of onward travel from Heathrow, go to heathrow.com/toandfrom H eath row Trave ll er 3 3
Anthropomorphic Summer Festival Wilton’s Music Hall, near Tower Hill, is the world’s oldest survivor of its kind, and has an interesting array of events for its summer festival. You can catch music, theatre, comedy and magic shows, but is worth visiting for the Mahogany Bar alone and to see the gorgeous 1850s building. Take a tour and discover its colourful history (from Victorian sailor’s pub to a Methodist Mission). Until 9 September. wiltons.org.uk Open House London Once a year, hundreds of buildings that are usually closed to the public open their doors to all, allowing a peek inside unusual and important architectural wonders such as 30 St Mary Axe (the ‘Gerkin’), as well as private homes and government departments. Last year more than 700 buildings took part and admission to the buildings
is absolutely free. Across London, 17 & 18 September. londonopenhouse.org. The Museum Of Everything The movable Museum Of Everything is London’s only museum dedicated to pieces by artists who live and work outside mainstream society. Featuring works from overlooked, self-taught artists, the museum’s fourth exhibition opens 2 September in a yet undisclosed central London space and promises to be intriguing and inspirational. museumofeverything.com More London festival The Scoop is an outdoor sunken amphitheatre with the impressive backdrop of Tower Bridge and City Hall. During the summer it turns into a hive of free cultural events, including concerts, theatre and film screenings. Festival runs until 30 September. morelondon.com
The Museum of London
THE OLD CuriOSiTy STOP Quirky collections and museums of the strange The Horniman Museum This lovely Victorian edifice in leafy Forest Hill shows off the passion of early naturalists. When a walrus skin was sent back from Hudson Bay to be stuffed,
1. The London Eye Londoners love this view of the heart of the city. The new ‘4D’ experience adds more to the ‘flight’. londoneye.com
Clichés, no Classics, definitely
2. St Paul’s Cathedral After 15 years under scaffolding, Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece has re-emerged, better looking than ever. stpauls.co.uk
Take a flight on the London Eye
3. London buses There are still two ‘heritage routes’ with Routemasters: 9 (Olympia–Aldwych) and 15 (Trafalgar Sq–Tower Bridge) tfl.gov.uk
4. Afternoon tea at The ritz Fill your boots with smart sandwiches, pastries, cakes and scones at The Ritz, washed down with your choice of 17 teas. theritzlondon.com/tea 5. Sunday roast This national institution has long been the signature dish of Simpsons-InThe-Strand. simpsons inthestrand.co.uk 6. V&A Museum In a vast, eclectic range of art and design, you can currently see Beatrix Potter’s charming botanical artwork. vam.ac.uk
the taxidermist had no idea it had folds of skin – the resulting puffa-walrus is there to this day; along with ethnographic curios and an excellent aquarium. horniman.ac.uk Whitechapel Bell Foundry This modest little workshop has produced two items at the very heart of American and British democracy: Big Ben and the Liberty Bell. The foundry still operates today and you can take a fascinating tour of it by prior appointment. whitechapelbellfoundry.co.uk Handel House Museum This house in Brook Street, Mayfair, was home to the German composer for some 36 years and it was here that he composed Messiah and other lasting classics. Not only is the house restored to Georgian splendour and stuffed with the composer’s possessions, it is also a venue for Baroque music concerts. handelhouse.org Dennis and Sir John Two houses full of character in two of London’s most historic areas. Sir John Soane, the architect of the Bank Of
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The Cocktail bar at Zetter Townhouse
Sterling work Travelex currency tips about the British pound
The pound is used in British territories, including South Georgia and British Antarctica It is the oldest currency in use, dating back to the 8th century when 240 silver pennies weighed one pound Common slang terms for it include ‘quid’ and ‘knicker’ In east London, five ATM machines offer Cockney (old London rhyming slang) as a language. Don’t forget your four-digit ‘Huckleberry Finn’
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England, amassed a large collection of antiquities in his house bordering Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Sir John Soane’s Museum includes bronzes from Pompeii and an Egyptian sarcophagus plus Hogarths and Canalettos. In another historic house on Folgate Street, Spitalfields, Californian Dennis Severs created a ‘still-life drama’ of a family living through the 18th and 19th centuries. soane.org; dennissevers house.co.uk The Clink Fan of the Horrible Histories? This building was once the prison that gave us the slang term ‘in the clink’. Housing miscreants from the surrounding borough of Southwark between 1144 and 1780, the Clink has a terrible past of abuse and torture, told on a tour of claustrophobic corridors and chilling chambers – you may
want to cheer yourself up afterwards at the bustling nearby Borough Market. clink.co.uk Museum of London A hive of activity, this museum tells the city’s story in fascinating detail from prehistoric times, through Roman occupation, the Middle Ages, civil war, plague and fire to the trendy, hightech metropolis of late. museumoflondon.org.uk Museum of Brands A labour of love, a place of worship, the result of an obsession — however you describe this museum, in a mews in Notting Hill, it is a remarkable range of objects that show the development of branding, packaging and advertising for some of the world’s most popular products — and others much loved and sadly missed. museumofrands.com
nigHTS OuT, nigHTS in The capital’s best new hotels, bars & restaurants Experimental Cocktail Club Through an incongruous, unmarked door in Chinatown is one of London’s chicest bars. Speakeasies are all over the capital, but this is one of the best, with an unusual location (no one goes drinking in Chinatown). Attentive and knowledgeable staff here make original, killer cocktails. experimentalcocktail clublondon.com Absinthe Bar Follow the green fairy to Knightsbridge’s awardwinning and stylish
Brompton Bar & Grill, which now houses the city’s first absinthe bar. They serve the spirit both in the traditional way, mixed with ice water, and in contemporary or classic cocktails. bromptonbarandgrill.com Pollen Street Social Chef Jason Atherton’s first solo venture in London is notable not only for its chic design, interesting modern art and exquisite, inventive cuisine but also for featuring the capital’s first dessert bar. Pastry chefs prepare mouthwatering dishes in front of the lucky few that can bag stools at the counter. pollenstreetsocial.com Zetter Townhouse The new sister hotel to the nearby chic Clerkenwell favourite The Zetter is a pleasing mix of eccentricity and five-star luxury. The 13 rooms are as indulgent
Words Arabella Dickie, Jane Fulcher, Tanya Jackson, Chris Madigan, Rosie Steer H eath row Travell er 3 5
tHE PoP-uP MEtRoPoLIS The trend for the temporary, oddly, is here to stay
Drinks at the Candlelight Club
as those in any top hotel but with added character. And the hotel’s bar is gaining a reputation for its delicious cocktails, themselves an homage to Dickensian London, inspired by old recipes for herbal tinctures and bitters, served at an apothecary-style counter. thezettertownhouse.com Brunswick House Café housed inside an architectural reclamation building, Brunswick house café is a little-known gem in Vauxhall. Serving up small plates of delicious, original, carefully sourced British fare
alongside excellent cocktails and surrounded by beautiful antiques, knick-knacks and oddities – all for sale – this is a South London Aladdin’s cave to treasure. brunswickhousecafe.co.uk Corinthia Hotel London A fantastic new addition to the city’s luxury hotel scene, the corinthia is minutes away from trafalgar Square. With striking Belle Époque design, charming service, spacious rooms and two world-class restaurants: Massimo and the northall, this hotel is set to become a landmark. corinthia.com
Street food What’s that: you eat in restaurants? that are always in the same place? how 2010. the eateries creating the biggest buzz in the capital are not Michelin-starred celeb dining rooms, but gourmet street kitchens (such as @streetkitchen itself) with changing locations, daily specials, and fans who argue online about which is ‘the best burger you’ll ever taste’ (it’s @meatwagon, by the way). For who’s where when, follow @eatstreet on twitter Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof Garden In the concrete expanse of the Southbank arts centre, a garden has sprung up above the Qeh to mark the 60th
anniversary of the Festival of Britain. Designed by eden Project landscape architects, it has vegetable plots, a daisy-covered lawn and wild flowers. Until 4 September. southbanklondon.com Pop-up Peckham Some may know it as the home of ‘Del Boy’ trotter in Only Fools and Horses; few will know it as a hotbed of pop-up chic. the best example is atop the multistorey car park next to the cinema at Peckham rye – walk past artwork displays to Frank’s campari Bar, with its surprising views of the city. frankscafe.org.uk Secret Cinema Bored of multiplex picture houses? Adventure and surprise await film fans in London via organisations like Secret cinema and the nomad cinema. At the former, you don’t know the film you’ll be seeing till you arrive and get clues from costumed staff and pre-film activities. the nomad pops up at fitting venues such as the Queen
used exclusively for monastical contemplation. Now anyone can pause to enjoy the peaceful green surroundings.
There’s plenty to explore: historical buildings, preserved watermills and a lovely, aromatic rose garden.
1. Crystal Palace Park, SE20 A Victorian Jurassic Park, Crystal Palace’s ‘Dinosaur Court’ is home to life-sized (wildly inaccurate) sculptures of prehistoric animals.
3. Parkland Walk, N4 to N22 The leafy walkway, on a disused railway line in north London, from Finsbury Park to Alexandra Palace, is home to more than 300 species of wild flower and a diverse range of animal life.
5. Kyoto Garden, Holland Park, W8 Created by specialist Japanese gardeners to celebrate the 1991 London Festival of Japan, this garden is beautiful, authentic and one of London’s most peaceful parks.
2. Westminster abbey gardens, SW1 Imbued with history, the cloisters and gardens were once
4. Morden Hall Park, Morden, Surrey This suburban escape is part of the Morden Hall estate.
Green spaces with room to move
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Dyouthinkhesaurus? Crystal Palace
6. Queen’s Wood, Highgate, N10 This area of ancient woodland dates from prehistoric times. Now a nature
reserve, the forest has a wonderful diversity of flora and fauna – particularly considering its proximity to the centre of London. 7. Isabella Plantation, Richmond, Surrey Richmond Park is best known for its deer. But hidden away is a stunning ornamental woodland garden. Designed to offer stunning displays year-round, the lilies and irises will soon give way to reddening acer leaves.
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Take the sea air at Margate
Take the wheel hire a car at heathrow and enjoy the freedom of the open road from start to finish
From plane to car and straight to London – there’s no easier way to start your adventure You’ll be at liberty to explore the great many attractions that await you just a short drive out of London Choose from Hertz, Avis, Europcar, National, Enterprise, Alamo, Budget and Sixt For more details, check out heathrow.com/hire
Mum’s old house for The King’s Speech or a lido for The Life Aquatic. @secretcinema @thenomadcinema
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Candlelight Club Speakeasies and one-off hootenannies are enjoying a revival in the capital. one such is the candlelight club, which occupies buildings, lights the whole place with naked flames and creates a party with themes of betting on horses or a Great Gatsbystyle weekend house party. thecandlelightclub.com Pop-up playtime Feeling playful? London often hosts performances like real-world video games, in which you are players. Join october’s Player festival at the Science Museum, run by @Trigger. or try Archipelago, a sort of architectural chinese Whispers across the capital. Intrigued? Follow thingsinabigcity.tumblr.com
day tRIPS to SavouR Countryside capers and seaside frolics near the capital Sissinghurst Estate In the ruins of an elizabethan mansion near tunbridge Wells lies one of the UK’s best-loved gardens, the creation of poet Vita Sackville-West. the ten outdoor ‘rooms’ include the yellow and orange-themed cottage Garden, the nuttery and the Wild Garden. nationaltrust.org.uk/ sissinghurst Cass Sculpture Park this charity and open-air sculpture park covers 26 acres of fairytale woodland in West Sussex. the ever-
changing display of 80 monumental artworks for sale is mainly by British contemporary artists, such as Gavin turk, Anish Kapoor and Antony Gormley. sculpture.org.uk Margate the seaside resort of Margate in Kent is flourishing due to the new £17.4m turner gallery and boutique B&Bs. Stroll along the front, fritter away pennies in the arcades, recuperate in the Mad hatter tea Garden or the Ambrette, and explore the 2,000sq ft tunnels of the ancient, mysterious Shell Grotto. visitthanet.co.uk Mersea Island Alongside 17th-century fishermen’s cottages sits a gloriously unpretentious eatery, run by oyster fisher richard hayward and his wife heather. the company Shed sells seafood, including
smoked eel, crab and oysters, and nothing else. Bring some bread and wine, and tuck in. 01206 382700 New Forest National Park Wild ponies roam and reign over this 220sq mile stretch of open heath and wild oak and beech forest, which also boasts a sea of purple heather at this time of year. It’s two hours from London, so you could stay over at the thatched Kingfisher retreat. newforestnpa.gov.uk Rye Pass along the coastal route to this former port in east Sussex – a jumble of cobbled lanes lined with Georgian, tudor and norman architecture. Boat down the river rother to Bodiam castle or venture out to rye harbour nature reserve or henry VIII’s camber castle. visitrye.co.uk HT
For a great deal on public transport and entry to London attractions go to heathrowexpress.com/london-pass He athrow Trave ll er 37