Brummell May 2013

may 2013

the little black book for the city

On the up the city’s men and women to watch in 2013 / london postcodes with potential niche watch brands / stylish summer suits / swimming with beluga whales

Breguet, the innovator.

Invention of the Breguet balance spring, 1795 The balance spring gives time rhythm and sets its rate – the key to a watch’s precision. With its many patented innovations, the Tradition 7047PT with fusee tourbillon pushes the limits of precision time-keeping by combining the accuracy of the Breguet balance-spring’s terminal curve, conceived in 1795, and the anti-magnetic properties of silicon.

History is still being written ...

BREGUET BOUTIQUE – 10A NEW BOND STREET

LONDON W1S 3SP

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Combining the ultra-thin Elite movement with a moon-phase display, it echoes a time when navigators used the night stars to chart their route. Driven by a paradoxically simple yet complex calibre, it pays tribute to the legendary precision so greatly appreciated by the most daring sea captains of yesteryear. It features a subtle blend of poetry and authentic watchmaking expertise.

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welcome leTTeR | BRUmmell 05

Cream of the crop

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his issue, we train our sights on ones to watch. We set out to identify 30 London-based men and women under 40 working in the financial services sector or on its fringes who each show a high level of talent, drive and energy. They will have proved successful in outperforming their peers or sectors or market, contributed outside their company in networking groups, charity, entrepreneurship or mentoring; and every one has the potential to rise to the top. Nominations were elicited from a wide range of industry insiders and a distinguished and experienced selection panel was convened. It decided those on the shortlist should not only be successful and have tried to change their company or sector from within for the better, but also be ‘giving back’ in some way – as Jack Lemmon used to say, ‘sending the elevator back down’…

Our aim was to showcase the tremendous young talent coming through – and create an upbeat and interesting read. And if we can help the careers of those featured, then so much the better. Elsewhere, we profile some entrepreneurial young creatives with fledgling businesses that look set to flourish and prosper, discover niche watchmaking brands that are on the rise and propose up-and-coming London areas ofering good deals for both style potential and value for money. Keep vigilant.

Joanne Glasbey, Editor

sTaR playeRs Some of those destined for the City’s highest echelons

H A C K E T T. C O M

E S S E N T I A L LY B R I T I S H

117 Bishopsgate • 10 Cabot Square, Canary Wharf • 75-77 Brushfield Street, Spitalfields

CALIBER RM 055 BUBBA WATSON BLACK EDITION Manual winding skeletonized movement Power reserve: circa 55 hours Free sprung balance with variable inertia Double barrel Baseplate and bridges made of titanium Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms Inertia moment 4.8 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53째 Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges Case in ATZ for the bezel with a rubberized grade 5 titanium caseband and back Interior flanges in carbon fiber Baseplate and bridges in grade 5 titanium, wet sandblasted, coated in PVD and with a straight-line grain finish after coating Lower surfaces microblasted Limited edition of 75 pieces

www.richardmille.com

CONTENTS | BRUMMELL 09

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Cover illustration

by Nathalie Lees

ANDy BARTeR; KLAAS LINGBeeK VAN KRANeN/GeTTy IMAGeS; PHILIP SINDeN; ToMo BReJC

Show Media Brummell editorial 020 3222 0101 Editor Joanne Glasbey Art Director Dominic Bell Managing Editor Lucy Teasdale Chief Copy Editor Chris Madigan Deputy Chief Copy Editor Gill Wing Designer Jo Murray Picture Director Juliette Hedoin Editorial Assistant Charlie Teasdale Copy Editor Rebecca Miles Style Director Tamara Fulton Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth

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Advertising & Events Director Duncan McRae duncan@flyingcoloursmarketing.com 07816 218059 showmedia.net brummell@showmedia.net Visit Brummell’s website for more tailor-made content:

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brummellmagazine.net Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group, groupfmg.com Printed by The Manson Group, manson-grp.co.uk Brummell is published by Show Media Ltd. All material © Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. While every efort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. £5 (where sold). Reader ofers are the responsibility of the organisation making the ofer – Show Media accepts no liability regarding ofers.

Foreword Today’s generation of City talent will be leaner, meaner, faster, says David Charters Money no object Richard Mille's watches are ultra high-tech and famously robust – as demonstrated by the likes of Felipe Massa and Rafael Nadal

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News Luxury hotels; Great Gatsby-inspired style; gem-encrusted pens; bespoke McQueen; exclusive wines; and a Bulgari exhibition New timepieces Magnetism, military-grade materials and codebreaking are the watchwords of 2013 Travel A singing lesson from Canada’s beluga whales, the canaries of the sea Property How to get more space for less money in one of London’s on-the-rise postcodes After the City Ross Marshall has created a successful career from golf – but he’d rather play rugby

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Glorious Goodwood Long considered a highlight of the Season, the annual meeting that ofers world-class horse racing in an idyllic setting Watches Introducing some niche brands that ofer the enthusiast unique and specialist pieces Ones to watch The 30 men and women under 40 who our panel agree are destined for great things in the City – and have already made their mark Creative entrepreneurs A maker of ethical chutney, a tailor who creates bespoke suits at home, the founders of a customisable-bike brand and a jewellery designer with a pearl of an idea Style When it comes to menswear, grey matters this spring: from silver to slate, sharp suiting will turn you into an éminence grise

By George German fashion giant Hugo Boss’s younger sibling Hugo turns 20: a sub-brand with a more unconventional take on style

HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700 www.hugoboss.com BOSS 0510/S

BOSS Stores in London: Brent Cross Phone 020 8457 9316 Canary Wharf Phone 020 7715 5302 Eldon Street Phone 0844 847 9202 Knightsbridge Phone 020 7225 4790 New Bond Street Phone 020 7499 5605 One New Change Phone 020 7332 0573 Queen Street Phone 020 7213 9717 Regent Street Phone 020 7734 7919 Sloane Square Phone 020 7259 1240 Westfield London Phone 020 8222 6310 Westfield Stratford City Phone 020 8221 4840

Foreword | BrUMMeLL

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The new top flight Can you float like a butterfly and work like a bee?

The City’s future relies on a hybrid species able to demonstrate deftness in the face of the twin opponents of public disenchantment and regulatory demands words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Getting ahead in the City has never been harder. Even getting on to the first rung of the ladder is hard enough. This is an industry that feels as if it has gone 10 rounds with Muhammad Ali. From being the poster boy of graduate recruitment and a talent magnet for the world, it has shrunk in size from its pre-crunch boom times, acquired pariah status in the eyes of politicians, press and public, and become the target of choice.

When City firms announce profits, they get booed. If they lose money they get doubly scrutinised and sneered at. Any mistake gets not just the firm concerned but the whole industry back under the microscope.

Surely by now people must be getting bored? If fickle modern audiences sufer compassion fatigue over the horrors of famine and disease in the developing world, isn’t it time hate fatigue set in over the banking industry?

Can we at least move on to a more reasonable stage where we don’t all get lumped in the same category and every ill is laid at our door?

Well no, actually. Hate is such a joyous feeling and it can fill the otherwise empty and emotionless days of the most intellectually vacuous people in society – newspaper editors, for example, or MPs, or special advisers to politicians. It unites and energises those who would not themselves survive a day on the trading floor of a major firm, let alone the relentless years it takes to build a career there.

The fundamental errors that led to the crunch were the result of the actions of a tiny handful of people, but that should not stop everybody being labelled and blamed. So where do we find something positive to say about the City? We still matter hugely – some would say disproportionately – to the UK economy: we pay our taxes, we generate

employment directly and indirectly, and, oh yes, in case anyone has forgotten, the difcult stuf that passes across our desks each day helps to keep the global economy moving and growing. Finance, like power and water, is quite hard to do without. But let’s not spoil a terrific run – is it really only five years?

– of bigotry, indignation and outrage with anything as tedious as facts and perspective.

If there is anywhere we can look with confidence about the future it is to the next generation of talent rising through the City’s ranks. Getting ahead and getting noticed in this climate is vastly more difcult than in the easy-money, bull-market days of the early years of my career. The regulatory burden is greater now – which is not to say that it is more efective, rather that this generation of athletes has to run the race in wooden clogs instead of Nike trainers. And in hard times there are more people competing for every dollar.

What does this mean? Well, for starters, this generation will be leaner, meaner, faster and sharper than I had to be. And they will definitely be fit for purpose in a way that past generations may not have been. Perhaps more importantly, they will have been tempered in fire – in the financial firestorm of the credit crunch. No more lazy, unspoken assumptions, no more old-boy clubbishness – instead, an expectation of scrutiny, transparency and

This generation will be leaner, meaner, faster, sharper and fit for purpose in a way that past generations may not have been

the rigour that accompanies it, along with the reluctant acceptance that the 20:20 hindsight committee will always be there to judge each decision, every risk after the event.

Today’s revenue generators have to carry with them an ever greater burden of central regulatory and oversight functions within the firm. So keep working and don’t relax – after all, those hundreds of compliance and legal and controlling functionaries have to be paid for by someone.

And then there is political correctness.

Make one slip in an idle moment by circulating an inappropriate email joke and you’ll find yourself facing the Spanish Inquisition.

Does anyone actually believe in any of this?

Do they think the Thought Police benefit anyone? Of course not. Better to rely on the old-fashioned virtues of courtesy, compassion and common sense rather than an expensively produced corporate Code of Conduct. We shouldn’t need it. But don’t dare to challenge it.

The irony is that most of the rising generation had plenty of alternatives. Unlike many of the critics of the City, these people could have done anything. Would I change places with them? Definitely not. I think they will have less fun than we did, and probably be paid less than we were. I nearly wrote ‘earn less’ and that would have been inaccurate, because they will definitely earn every penny.

But the good news is this: that new generation is better than we were – they have to be – and through them the City will rebuild itself. The future may not be quite as golden as it once was, but it is still bright.

The Ego’s Nest, by David Charters, the fifth novel in the series about City anti-hero Dave Hart, is published by Elliott & Thompson, £6.99

BRUMMELL

MONEY NO OBJECT The Richard Mille RM017 may be the slimmest tourbillon in the world, yet it as durable as it is delicate Words Simon de Burton Photography Andy Barter

Richard Mille made his name through ultrahigh-tech, cushion-cased wristwatches, which carry eye-watering price tags but are famously robust – one of his party tricks is to remove his own timepiece and casually toss it across the room to demonstrate its resilience.

Something of a horological maverick, Mille takes pride in building watches with traditionally delicate complications, especially tourbillons, then giving them to sports stars to wear in conditions that would lead to the demise of less well-crafted models. Tennis ace Rafael Nadal

wears one on court, F1 driver Felipe Massa wears one behind the wheel and golfer Bubba Watson wears one on the fairway.

The RM 017 pictured here is one of the world’s slimmest tourbillon watches and features a curved, rectangular case in red gold enclosing a skeletonised movement built on a base plate made from carbon nanofibre. The crown has a ‘function selector’ based on the gate of a car gearbox, with diferent positions for winding, hand-setting, ‘speed’ hand-setting and ‘neutral’.

And all for £297,000. richardmille.com

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Florence’s finest hotel, bespoke tailoring by mcQueen and a Great Gatsby-inspired collection

Get smart Six months after opening its menswear flagship store on Savile Row, Alexander McQueen now ofers bespoke tailoring in a range of classic and exclusive fabrics, patterns and prints. The house, known for its progressive and contemporary styling, ofers a jacket with McQueen’s signature precise silhouette and pagoda shoulder.

Made-to-measure is also now available, in three variations and 26 fabrics: a single-breasted two-button jacket with a peak or notch-lapel option and a double-breasted jacket. Bespoke starts at £2,880 for a suit jacket, made-tomeasure from £1,735 for a mohair suit. alexandermcqueen.com A hotel for all seasons Less than a 10-minute stroll from the humid heart of Florence, where the streams of tourists are dazzled by the burnt-orange light falling on the Duomo, is a hidden oasis of tranquillity. The Four Seasons’ luxurious lobby hints at what is to come – the vast expanse of marble cools, frescoes wow. Once two Renaissance palaces, its previous occupants have included a pope and Italy’s first railway company.

These days it’s a flagship hotel.

Staf pamper but never pester, ofering sorbet as you lie by the stunning pool and bringing icy drinks to the furthest corners of the city’s largest private garden.

Rooms are super-comfortable with bathrooms big enough to live in.

Best of all, however, is the restaurant.

Il Palagio has one Michelin star, but should have two. Current ofers include a complimentary night with every three or five consecutive nights. fourseasons.com/florence

Mightier than the sword At just 27, award winning British artisan and goldsmith Jack Row is causing quite a stir in the luxurygoods world. The pieces in his limited-edition City Collection are both innovative and extraordinary.

Made in solid sterling silver and subtly accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, rubies or sapphires, these elegant fountain pens and rollerballs would appeal to the professional who needs the everyday reliability of a fine writing instrument, but yearns after that added touch of exclusivity. jackrow.com

Seventies splendour Bulgari’s New Bond Street store is staging an exhibition of rare design-studio drawings and heritage jewels. Showcasing rarely seen iconic pieces from the Seventies to the Nineties – when Bulgari design particularly challenged traditional forms and transformed the idea of fine jewellery – they draw on motifs of nature, architecture and antique coins. The house created jewellery that was audacious and original, combining stones in vivid, clashing colours. As part of the special Masterpieces exhibition, clients will be invited to select designs from original drawings, which can be interpreted into modern bespoke pieces.

Until 25 June. bulgari.com

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Riviera retreat Hidden away in the French hillside village of Ramatuelle is La Réserve – a mecca for hedonists and fans of the ultimate in luxury.

Just minutes from St Tropez, it is well situated for those who want to be within touching distance of the Riviera, with the added benefit of being able to step away if it gets too much.

The hotel ofers refined comfort, outstanding cuisine and an unrivalled spa. Aside from the nine rooms and 19 suites that each have a sea-view terrace, La Réserve also has 12 private villas that come equipped with a pool and the services of a personal maid. lareserve-ramatuelle.com

Wondrous wines Often the best way to order wine to accompany a dish is to simply trust the sommelier and chef to make the pairing. Former hedge-fund manager Arnaud Christaens has gone a step further – by creating a series of Grands Vins de Bordeaux in collaboration with world-champion sommelier Gerard Basset, owner of the Hotel Terravina in the New Forest, and four French chefs with a total of 11 Michelin stars to their name: Yannick Alléno, Frédéric Anton, Alain Dutournier and Bruno Ménard.

The wines have been produced on private vineyards with superb terroir in four appellations – Pomerol, Pauillac, St Emillion Grand Cru and Médoc – of which the exact locations have been kept under wraps, hence the name: Le Secret des Grands Chefs.

From £207.80 a bottle; Hedonism Wines, Davies Street, London W1, hedonism.co.uk or sgcboutique.com

Great Scott ↑ If you’re planning to catch the latest cinematic adaptation of The Great Gatsby this summer, be sure to take note of the characters’ clothes. Iconic American outfitter Brooks Brothers was in charge of men’s wardrobe and created more than 500 outfits for the primary, secondary and background cast, taking inspiration from the exuberant collegiate style of the Roaring Twenties. Fitzgerald himself was a fan of the brand, so would no doubt have approved of its new collection, of which highlights include a pink linen suit, a bottle-green shawl-style cardigan and, of course, a classic boater. brooksbrothers.com

Chain reaction Swiss watch brand Tissot has long had an afnity with Russia. Now, celebrating the house’s 160th anniversary and also the opening of its first boutique in Moscow’s prestigious GUM emporium, the company has honoured this bond and its heritage by re-creating the Tissot pendant of 1878. An extremely refined mechanical piece, it has a double opening and, true to the original, Tissot’s signature is marked on the dial.

Seven diamonds are set on the 18ct gold case, which is patterned with Arabesque designs reflecting the art of the time. A beautiful and delicate creation, it is available in a limited, numbered edition of 160. tissot.ch

glorious goodwood 30 July to 3 August

For tickets or hospitality call: 01243 755055 or visit

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new timepieces | beAumonde 23

All in the timing Magnetism, military-grade materials and codebreaking mark this year’s new watches Until last year, the Baselworld spring watch and jewellery fair ran with one of those slogans that probably sounded better in its source language than it did translated into English. ‘Where business begins and trends are created’ has now been replaced with the almost-as-clunky ‘Brilliance meets’ – a pithy statement that masks the fact that its precursor actually had a point. Trend-spotting at the two major annual watch shows – the other being Geneva’s SIHH in January – is a time-honoured tradition. The curtain has now fallen on both and it’s possible to ofer a few examples of what will be on ofer from some luxury watchmakers later this year.

Chronographs are a perennial favourite and, while hardly novel, elapsed-time watches, from Burberry’s first to Jack Heuer’s last, are on the march. And why not? The ability to measure time independently of the time of day is a useful function.

Picking one of the new crop is hard, but it would be wrong to overlook the aforementioned piece from TAG Heuer. Jack Heuer, now 80, brought us the first great sports chronograph watch: the 1963 Carrera. Marking both its 50th anniversary and his retirement is the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition. With the crown and push pieces swung through 90 degrees to 12 o’clock, its case is typical of the brand’s 21st-century avantgarde designs, but the dial is pure Heuer.

The great-grandson of the founder had a vision to make a clean-dialled, highly legible watch, and that’s the philosophy he has bestowed on this handsome timekeeper.

All in hAnd Clockwise from above: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ofshore Diver, audemarspiguet.com; Panerai Radiomir

Talking of classics, Panerai continues to launch tweaked versions of its nautically inspired Radiomir – the watch with the wire-loop lugs that first equipped the Italian navy in 1938.

Two years later, that same navy demanded a sturdier version and Panerai beefed up the lugs with a design that has resurfaced this year in the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Oro Rosso. Despite being chunkier than other pieces in the line, it feels slighter because it has been shrunk down to 42mm, eschewing the brand’s ‘bigger is best’ mantra in a welcome bout of modesty that will please both men with thinner wrists and indeed women with an eye for a Panerai.

On the tech front, the main attraction this year is magnetism. When a mechanical watch becomes magnetised, its parts stick together, making it less accurate. So, when a brand says it has made a timepiece more accurate by putting magnets inside it, it requires further investigation.

Breguet is the latest to do this, inserting a magnetic pivot into the balance of its Classique Chronométrie 7727, creating a stable magnetic field that counters gravity, making the watch more accurate and more resistant to shocks.

1940 3 Days Oro Rosso, panerai.com; TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Jack Heuer Edition, tagheuer.com

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Not as clever, but a technical trend all the same, are the latest developments in watches intended for the life aquatic. Audemars Piguet has introduced its first diving watch with a sapphire crystal case back: the Royal Oak Ofshore Diver. This is significant – sealing such a watch so it doesn’t leak at 300m beneath the surface, as AP claims this won’t, is notoriously tricky.

The Diver’s case is cast entirely in shiny black ceramic – a scratch-resistant material increasingly prevalent in diving watches as it’s so robust and doesn’t fade, even when exposed to sun and saltwater. Another to feature ceramic is Blancpain’s 60th-anniversary Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, which has a ceramic bezel insert.

Its graduated scale is made of an amorphous material called LiquidMetal originally pioneered for use in weaponry, but was chosen here simply because it bonds with ceramic.

Elsewhere, there are signs the industry may be taking a more egalitarian approach to personalisation. Caroline Scheufele, Chopard’s artistic director, created the Happy Sport timepiece 20 years ago and now, by visiting the website or by using the iPad app, you can customise yours by choosing case and dial materials, bezel finishes, straps and bracelets, and the number of floating diamonds and charms you want to hover elegantly over the dial.

A final word for the continuing success story that is Bremont, which continues to push the revival of British watchmaking. After opening its own production facility in Henley earlier this year, its big announcement at Baselworld was that it will unveil a timepiece this summer called the Codebreaker, made in partnership with the Bletchley Park Trust, which maintains the famous estate where the Enigma code was cracked during the Second World War. It is keeping the look of the watch under wraps until late June, but has revealed it has used metal from an original Enigma machine in the rotor, and, in the case back, pine from Hut 6, the epicentre of Bletchley’s deciphering programme.

The watch will feature a flyback chronograph GMT movement and part of the proceeds from each sale will go towards the ongoing restoration of Bletchley Park. words Robin Swithinbank

about face Clockwise from top left: Chopard Happy Sport, chopard.com; Breguet Classique Chronométrie 7727, breguet.com; Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, blancpain.com

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no phones, no emails, no meetings. Just seamless service and the pressing matter of relaxation.

00 brummell | Feature tItle

A serenade under the sea Every summer, the beluga whales of Canada’s Hudson’s Bay lure tourists to sing with them in a sublime sub-aqua choir words Ian Belcher She’s staring into my eyes, burrowing into my soul. We’ve only know each other seconds, but the connection is instant, extraordinary, slightly unnerving. I return her gaze and she flows sensuously towards me until our bodies are mere millimetres apart.

We’ve not just clicked – we’ve squeaked, chirped and blown bubbles. Can you get any more flirtatious? But that’s the thing about an Arctic encounter with a beluga whale, it’s an audio as well as a visual experience. I’ve had less communicative first dates.

And I’ve never met anyone in so spectacular a venue. Our intimate rendezvous takes place close to the wild western shore of Canada’s Hudson Bay, 50km north of Churchill. The small, gritty town already enjoys an influx of polar bears and gawping tourists in early winter, but now it’s exploiting a major summer draw for wildlife enthusiasts – the 4,000 belugas that clog up the bay’s river mouths as they calve, moult and feast on small, oily capelin.

I spot them far below as our small plane makes the half-hour hop to the remote Seal River Heritage Lodge run by Churchill Wild: white whales scattered across the swirling sandbanks that line the shallow ocean like tannin-hued lava lamps. A mesmerising aperitif for the adventure.

Our first night in the gloriously cosy accommodation – all wood-fired stoves, stufed birds and caribou-antler door handles – is marked by a July appearance of the northern lights: no more than a 2am curl of coloured smoke, but definitely the aurora borealis. It’s not the biggest surprise, however. My roommate, a square-jawed National Geographic man, tackles the wilderness with a fleecy onesie, silk eye mask and scented moisturiser. The call of the mild.

Still, by 6am, like the rest of the 16-strong group, he’s wearing sturdy waterproofs and climbing into a Zodiac inflatable to catch the rising tide. The 10km journey serves an all-you-can-photograph bufet of wildlife: bobbing seals, merganser ducks paddle-wheeling over

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whale watchIng From top: A ‘ludicrously cute’ beluga looms in for a closer look at a tourist; the Seal River Heritage Lodge

Dennis Fast; Klaas Lingbeek van Kranen/Getty Images; Sylvain Cordier/hemis.fr/ Getty Images

A rope around our ankles, we’re towed backwards, face-down in the ocean, gurgling falsetto songs into a snorkel mouthpiece

the water, and a polar bear ambling along the beach under a cloudless cyan sky.

As our hugely experienced guide – Andy MacPherson is on his seventh season at the eco lodge – eases the throttle, the first swimmers pull a dry-suit over their clothes. Hudson Bay acts like a climatic net, dragging Arctic weather south into Manitoba and Ontario. We’re expecting it to be brutally cold; in fact, the fresh water surging from the river forms a relatively toasty 15°C metre-thick layer above the freezing North Atlantic. The two blend into an exotic cocktail and we’ll be the olives floating on its warm surface.

We’re not cold, but we are undignified.

Beluga-watching is, without doubt, the most bizarre wildlife encounter on the planet. A rope looped around our ankles, we’re towed backwards, face-down in the ocean. To entice our quarry, we’re gurgling falsetto songs into a snorkel mouthpiece, a technique dubbed ‘vaudeville chumming’, after the practice of throwing chum – fish blood and guts – overboard to attract sharks.

It works. Instantly. As the first swimmer drifts away humming ‘The Star-Spangled Banner’, whales swim in from all sides. Some swarm around the human live bait, others investigate the Zodiac, their pale backs rolling out of the water.

Belugas may not stage the theatrics of a breaching humpback or tail-slapping grey whale, but they’re still amazing creatures. Adults reach 5m in length and a weight of 1,500kg, with compressible chest cartilage that allows them to become ‘vacuum-packed’ as they dive to 800m or more. With short round flippers, small blunt heads bearing a soft echolocation ‘melon’ and prominent beak, they are ludicrously cute.

They may also be republican. I start my eclectic set list with a snorkel-mangled ‘God Save the Queen’. It draws a total blank. I switch to ‘Beyond the Sea’ by Bobby Darin and a large white torpedo emerges from the gloom to swim with me, before cutting across my mask. I flinch, but it’s more exhilaration than fright – a beluga’s idea of violence is to blow bubbles or spit water.

I relax and sing like an enthusiastic vicar.

Suddenly, the friendly spectres are everywhere.

Some, including mothers with grey calves, follow from a distance, while others rise from below, twisting away at the last second like perfectly choreographed gymnasts. One hovers in front of my face, staring into my eyes. It’s not clear which of us is the gawping tourist.

And they keep coming. I switch to Bruce Springsteen’s ‘Thunder Road’ and five large specimens close in all sides – unusually for the Boss, they aren’t all middle-aged males with no sense of rhythm. As the only whales with seven unfused neck vertebrae, belugas can twist their heads as they pass, suggesting a profound appreciation of my singing.

We even appear to talk. When they whistle, click and chirp, echolocating of me, I do the same.

I could be the next Dr Doolittle. Unless they’re just being diplomatic, they seem genuinely interested.

It’s this curiosity, along with the extraordinary

numbers, that sets the experience apart from any other whale-watching.

The appearance of a polar bear – each July, hundreds swim ashore from last winter’s rapidly melting ice sheet – adds what Mike Reimer, Churchill Wild’s founder and head guide, calls a ‘little extra edge’ to the adventure. It leaves the guides on high alert until it heads elsewhere.

But it’s a minor diversion. My 12-minute sub-aqua serenade of 40 whales has been one of the most serene yet intense experiences of my life. ‘It’s very Zen,’ says Mike. ‘You’re alone in their world. People sometimes emerge from the ocean crying. It can be emotional, even life-changing.’

How true. How very true. If only all first dates were this successful.

Abercrombie & Kent (0845 485 1712; abercrombiekent.co.uk) ofers an all-inclusive eight-day Polar Bears & Beluga Whales itinerary from £6,995pp, including flights and transfers

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property | beAumonde 29

Smart move House hunters prepared to head to London’s up-and-coming districts are snapping up deals that ofer style, space and value for money Words Catherine Moye

The hunt for a decent and afordable family home in London is increasingly like Parsifal’s quest for the Holy Grail. Even if one could aford a terraced townhouse on a prestigious Kensington street, its narrow-but-tall configurations would prove tricky to remodel to suit today’s fashion for open-plan lateral living. And making expansion even harder, in March, the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea announced it was reviewing its planning policies following a recent surge in applications for so-called ‘mega basements’.

Thus it is that, with contemporary style as much as value for money in mind, increasing numbers of savvy house hunters are buying into areas where the houses lend themselves to practicable conversions to suit today’s lifestyles – even if the postcodes might jar.

Take Brondesbury Park in north London, where droves of purchasers who have rejected cramped and expensive Hampstead are turning this overlooked enclave into one of the capital’s most covetable addresses.

‘Most of our enquiries right now are coming from people who started looking in St John’s Wood, Hampstead or Holland Park,’ says Geofrey Stif of estate agents Camerons Stif & Co. ‘In Hampstead, for example, the price per square foot is around £1,100, whereas in Brondesbury Park it’s £550 to £800.’

Furthermore, Stif points out, the area is attractive for those after plenty of space.

Unless you have tens of millions to spend, large detached homes averaging 4,000sq ft and sitting on sizeable plots with extensive gardens simply can’t be found in ritzier environs.

‘What we’re seeing is people who’ve done both a loft and a rear extension on their existing home when it’s really more width they want,’ Stif explains. ‘In the end, that simply means buying a wider house with a wider garden.’

The exterior of some of the homes in Brondesbury Park may lack architectural distinction, having been built in Twenties and Thirties suburban style, but these houses are fitting canvases for breathtaking interior conversions. Double-height entry halls, sweeping staircases, vast open-plan kitchen-reception rooms linked by folding partition doors, and enormous gardens are the norm. While prices here and within the neighbouring Mapesbury conservation area are rising fast, with a 4,000sq ft detached house in Brondesbury Park currently costing around £3.5m, the

30 beAumonde | property

The completion of Crossrail will prompt house price rises of 25 per cent over the next 10 years, according to research

same-sized property in Hampstead without the grounds would be upwards of £7m.

The local transport links are good, too, with Kilburn Tube station on the Jubilee Line and both Brondesbury and Brondesbury Park London Overground stations nearby. A minor drawback for some might be that, although Kensal Rise’s flourishing Chamberlayne Road and Queen’s Park ‘village’ are only a short walk away, the Brondesbury area lacks a core café culture. ‘People drive rather than stroll locally, as evidenced by the fact that every house here has a large driveway,’ Stif concedes.

That said, a further sign that the area is on the rise is the influx of upmarket property developers such as Vabel, which has recently completed conversions of homes on Brondesbury Road but is better known for developments in Hampstead and Notting Hill.

Refugees from soaring prices in Notting Hill might want to take a look at North Kensington, where a four-bedroom house with garden on the adjacent street to that on which David Cameron still owns a property is currently on the market for £2m. A similar house 10 minutes’ walk away in Notting Hill would set you back more than double, according to Knight Frank.

The shift from established to new areas is happening in south London, too, according to Lindsay Cuthill of high-end agents Savills, south-west London. ‘We are increasingly handling what is regarded as a “Savills house” in a secondary or even tertiary area,’ he says.

‘People are now looking to buy in districts they wouldn’t have considered a few years ago.’

Cuthill cites Streatham, especially Telford Park, as an example of an area where the supply of large family homes with gardens is superior to that in nearby Wandsworth.

postcode potentiAl Previous page: A property in Brondesbury Park, NW2 with five bedrooms and a gym, £2.85m, Camerons Stif. This page, from top: A five-bedroom house in Streatham Hill, SW2 with a 63ft garden, guide price £1.55m, Savills; a bespoke home in Brondesbury Park, NW6, set over 4,000sq ft, £3.75m, Camerons Stif

Incomers are attracted to its prestigious tennis club, the focus of the community. A sumptuous five-bedroom home is currently on the market here through Savills at £1.55m. The same house in Wandsworth would cost in excess of £3m.

For those wanting to invest in soon-to-bedesirable areas, the completion of Crossrail will improve journey times and ofer better connections to the City from outlying districts that are currently an exhausting commute away.

This is likely to prompt house price rises of 25 per cent over the next 10 years in places such as Abbey Wood and Shenfield in Essex, according to research for Crossrail by property consultancy GVA. Forget yesterday’s indicators, the Ocado delivery vans on the streets and fresh pesto in the corner shop – the real tell-tale signs of tomorrow’s up-and-coming areas, it seems, are road closures, trafc chaos and a lot of men in hi-vis vests.

Camerons Stif & Co, cameronsstif.co.uk; Knight Frank, knightfrank.co.uk; Savills, savills.co.uk

Patience isn’t always a virtue.

The Bentley Continental. The luxury of spontaneity.

For more information call 0845 689 1672, text Bentley2 to 80010 or visit continental.bentleymotors.com to start your Bentley journey.

Fuel economy for the Continental GTC in mpg (1/100km): Urban 12.5 (22.7); Extra Urban 27.2 (10.4); Combined 19.0 (14.9). CO 2 Emissions (g/km) 347.

The Continental GT Range from £126,200. Model shown: Bentley Continental GTC, mrrp £153,500. Price correct at the time of going to press and includes VAT at 20%.

Price excludes road fund licence, registration and delivery charges. The name ‘Bentley’ and the ‘B’ wings are registered trademarks. April 2013 Bentley Motors Ltd.

32 beaumonde | aFTeR THe CITY

Anyone can start their own business – it comes down to appetite for risk. And we were prepared to go bankrupt

A hole in one Ex-trader Ross Marshall is as adept in dot-commerce as he is on the links, turning a passion for golf into a £40m business Words James Medd Photography Ivan Jones

He may have made a career of golf but, if he’s perfectly honest, Ross Marshall would rather be playing rugby. He could be, too – he was contracted to Harlequins while still at Durham University, commuting to matches at weekends.

He didn’t continue for the same reason he has made a success of his fallback career. ‘I didn’t believe I would play for England,’ he says, ‘and, for me, if I can’t be the best at something, it’s better not to do it at all.’

Instead, he joined ING Barings on the swaps desk: ‘It was the logical thing to do – I wanted to get paid as much as possible.’ That was never going to be the end of it, however. ‘I certainly learnt a huge amount in the City about how organisations work and how to manage people,’ he says, ‘but I was always looking for a way out.’

There was a post-holiday flirtation with importing Casablanca beer from Morocco, but, in the end, the answer came from a Durham friend, Andrew Harding, who had been his partner in an ambitious undergraduate scheme, betting website tipsterzone.com. He saw the potential in Andrew’s idea for a golf-travel company at once: ‘Golf appeals to people aged from eight to 80 – the demographic is huge.

And, globally, there’s huge investment going into it.’ The pair set up yourgolftravel.com in 2005, when they were 24, taking the first bookings from old City contacts. ‘There were people we’d worked with who wanted to help us out,’ he says, ‘but others told us we were total lunatics. The reality is, anyone can start their own business – it comes down to appetite for risk. And we were prepared to go bankrupt.’

Their youth and energy marked them out from the competition. ‘Golf travel was very much brochure-style, but we grew up with the likes of lastminute.com,’ he says. ‘We simplified the packages to make them a lot more of-the-shelf and learnt very quickly how to drive trafc to the site.’ This involved doing ‘anything for a cheap headline’, from dressing up friends in their branding at the St Andrew’s Open to sponsoring a 40-year-old Mongolian boxer and buying an eagle they named after championship golfer Darren Clarke. They’ve now signed up the real Clarke and last year turned over £40m.

But success has been down to hardnosed business, too. They’ve faced recession head on, buying out a number of competitors: ‘We see it as an opportunity to be quite aggressive and do a lot of things on the basis we can do them cheaper.’

They added spas with spabreaks.com in 2008 and sports holidays with fairwaytofurlong.com in 2011. ‘We got into spas because there were so many guys going away on golf trips whose wives and girlfriends were saying, “And what are we going to do?”’ he explains. ‘I think it will be bigger for us than the golf. And racing is the secondmost-followed sport after football in the country, so we like that market, too.’ Romantic breaks are next, along with a programme of international expansion for yourgolftravel.com, to the United States, Abu Dhabi and the Far East.

Marshall also fits in charity work for the Seve Ballesteros Foundation, Cancer Research UK and Golf4 Heroes, which helps in the rehabilitation of injured soldiers. It’s further testament to the drive of a man who spent two-and-a-half years working seven-day weeks. ‘That was pretty gruesome,’ he reflects, ‘As things have got bigger, it’s become less enjoyable in a way – more regulated and structured. The staf headcount is just under 130 now and when it’s over 200, I think I’ll be long gone.’ It’s unlikely you’ll find him playing golf, however.

A WATCH MADE FROM PARTS OF HMS VICTORY?

WE DO NOT ANTICIPATE HUGE SALES IN FRANCE OR SPAIN.

It’s hardly surprising.

The Bremont Victory chronograph is an unashamed tribute to the greatest oceangoing vessel in British naval history.

The ship that, under the audacious leadership of Admiral Horatio Nelson, vanquished the combined might of the Franco-Spanish fleet at Trafalgar.

The inner barrel of the case is crafted from HMS Victory copper.

While the back of the case is inlaid with oak from the ship’s timbers.

But although these parts date from the 18th century (the ship was built in 1759), the rest of the watch is very definitely 21st century.

If your name is Marcel or Pedro, you may want to look away now.

The automatic movement features a double retrograde date, second hand and chronograph.

Nelson went into battle outnumbered and outgunned.

And the case is built from 18 carat rose gold and hardened stainless steel.

And yet, led by HMS Victory, the British captured twenty-one French and Spanish ships, destroyed one and lost none.

(Having survived the French and Spanish guns, we wouldn’t want any part of Victory to come to harm now.)

A stunning 22- 0 away win.

As you might expect, the Bremont Victory is only available in a strictly limited edition and demand is likely to be high.

On that October day in 1805, Britannia really did rule the waves.

Today, the Bremont Victory chronograph borrows more than just the name of the famous vessel.

It incorporates actual material from the original ship.

With the kind permission of the National Museum of the Royal Navy we’ve used oak and copper from Victory in the construction of every watch.

(In return, proceeds from each sale will go to help the ship’s restoration.)

But look on the bright side.

Unlike Nelson, you won’t have to fight off the French and the Spanish.

34 BRUMMELL | GLORiOUS GOODwOOD

Card to beat A high point of the Season, Glorious Goodwood ofers champion horse racing, old-fashioned elegance and a halcyon setting

Far from the madding crowd – or, more precisely, just of the A285 towards Chichester – lies the 12,000-acre seat of the Duke of Richmond, a picturesque swathe of Albion that each July plays host to the flat-racing festival known as Glorious Goodwood. Built in 1802, the Goodwood racecourse was originally intended as a playground of sorts for the third Duke’s military cohorts, yet it has subsequently grown into one of the most breathtaking and challenging tracks anywhere in the world, with its unique combination of a straight up-and-down track over six furlongs and a tight, right-handed loop at its easternmost point.

Set against a backdrop of countryside that could have been painted by Turner, stretching unblemished from Trundle Hill across the South Downs to the coast, Glorious Goodwood is a quintessentially British occasion, ofering all the prestige of Ascot but without the pretence.

The dress code is not so much morning suits and top hats as linen jackets and Panamas – the latter allegedly popularised at this very event by a former Prince of Wales. More than 100,000 racegoers flock to the estate across the five days of festivities, sipping Pimm’s, taking in the scenery and enjoying some of the finest equestrian sport anywhere on earth.

It is perhaps little wonder then that King Edward VII described the event as ‘a garden party with racing tacked on’.

GLORY DAYS From top: Goodwood’s rolling countryside has hosted horse racing two centuries; picnics have long been a traditional part of the festival

‘The joy of Glorious Goodwood is the fact it is so beautifully understated,’ says Balthazar Fabricius, founder of Mayfair bookmaker Fitzdares and a veteran of the festival, whose father served as managing director of the racecourse for 28 years. ‘As it falls in the last week of July, people have always made it a bit of a holiday,’ he explains, ‘so they stay down in the area and make a real week of it.’ And what a week it is: the racecard ofers plenty of highbrow sporting distraction from starting post to finishing line, from the Veuve Clicquot Vintage Stakes on the second day (‘a lovely

race that always throws up a great two-yearold’) to Saturday’s sprint handicap, the Blue Square Stewards’ Cup (‘a real cavalry charge’), and the Markel Insurance Nassau Stakes – a group-one race that has been won over the years by the likes of Ouija Board and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s champion filly, The Fugue.

Yet it is Wednesday’s QIPCO Sussex Stakes, another group-one contest first held at Goodwood in 1841, that has come to the fore in recent years. In 2011, two of the best horses in the world over a mile – Frankel and Canford Clifs – were pitted nose to nose in the shadow of Trundle Hill, in what would become referred to as the ‘Duel on the Downs’. Frankel extended his unbeaten career run by finishing a full five lengths ahead of his rival. Then in 2012 he returned to win by five lengths again and in doing so became the first horse in history to win the Sussex Stakes twice.

‘I’d strongly argue that any horse that wins at Glorious Goodwood can win anywhere,’ says Fabricius. ‘Invariably the Goodwood form stands up very well for the rest of the season, too, so horses that do well here tend to go on and win elsewhere.’

Whichever horse steps into Frankel’s shoes on the last day of July, the Glorious Goodwood crowd will certainly be enjoying the view.

Glorious Goodwood runs 30 July to 3 August 2013; goodwood.co.uk; fitzdares.com.

Rex Features

words Henry Farrar-Hockley

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For lettings enquiries please contact Keith t Wilson: Keith@Wilsonmchardy.com 020 7439 1666 and michael Ball: michael.Ball@eu.jll.com 020 7318 7815 www.theroyalexchange.co.UK

royal exchange promotion | BrUmmell 37

RED ALERT

oUt of this world The Omega Constellation Sedna™, with Co-Axial calibre 8502 movement

Omega’s new alloy, SednaTM, lends longevity to its elegant, limited-edition rose-gold watch It isn’t often a watch company looks out into deep space for inspiration, but as Omega put the first timepiece on the moon – an Omega Speedmaster, on Buzz Aldrin’s wrist, in July 1969 – it has more than earned the right to comb the cosmos for ideas. For its latest version of the iconic Constellation watch, the company gazed beyond Neptune to where an orbiting object (not quite big enough to be a planet) glows red – one of the reddest and coldest objects in our solar system. Called Sedna by the astronomers who discovered it, after an Inuit goddess said to live at the bottom of the Arctic Ocean, it has given its name, in turn, to a brand-new alloy created by Omega to lend longevity to its red-gold casings.

Stephen Urquhart, the president of Omega, explains: ‘The cases of red- and rose-gold watches tend to lose their reddish lustre over time. However, indexes and hands made from the same red-gold material are not directly exposed to the elements the way the case is, as they are protected by the crystal and watch case.’

This means that, over the years, a rose-gold watch can develop a two-tone look – not what the owner of an expensive timepiece desires.

‘We wanted to create an alloy that would retain its colour and resist fading,’ says Urquhart.

‘It had to be beautiful as well as durable.’

With this brief, the Swatch Group, Omega’s parent company, assembled a team of top scientists and metallurgists from across its many divisions and charged them with the task of finding a tough yet delicate-looking and long-lasting material to produce a new breed of desirable rose-gold watches. They succeeded, says Urquhart, ‘to an incredible extent’.

Sedna™, the new alloy the team created and trademarked, is an amalgam of gold (at least 75 per cent), copper and palladium.

The gold/copper combination confers the unique ‘blush’ finish, whereas the palladium is the secret to its enduring hue.

Having developed and trademarked this innovative material, Omega had to decide which watch to use as the platform to share it with the world. It chose the Constellation. Was it because the name kept the outer-space connection?

Not entirely. It was more the appeal of blending the old with the new, as Urquhart reveals: ‘The Constellation has remained a favourite since it was launched in 1952 and it seemed fitting to

We wanted to create an alloy that would retain its colour and resist fading. It had to be beautiful as well as durable

fashion one with an 18ct Sedna™ case because it allowed us to combine this new material with one of our most iconic wristwatches.’

So, while the material used on the case, the clasp of the brown leather strap, the hands and the indexes is innovative, the design is the classic Constellation of the very first models, where the ‘pie-pan’ dial has a circular ridge reminiscent of the reverse of an old-style frying pan. It has a sapphire-crystal caseback, revealing the Co-Axial calibre 8502 movement, and is water resistant to 100m – although it is unlikely this elegant watch will find itself at those depths too often.

Given the rarity of this alloy, it is fitting that the women’s model will be available in strictly limited numbers – just 1,952 (to mark the year of its original launch) of the Omega Constellation Sedna™ will be produced, delivered in a special wooden presentation box with a rose-coloured lining. It is, indeed, out of this world.

Omega, Number 1 The Courtyard, The Royal Exchange; 020 7929 7706

watches | BRUMMeLL 39

Brands new Our appetite for unusual timepieces is bringing niche companies to the fore, widening choice and ofering the chance to be original. These are the watchmakers to watch words Simon de Burton Photography Andy Barter

40 BRUMMELL | WaTCHES

Linde Werdelin Spidolite II Black Gold Niche maker Linde Werdelin is attracting a growing following for its unique Danish-designed, Swissmade mechanical watches, which serve as platforms for the brand’s separately available clip-on electronic instruments for skiing and diving. All Linde Werdelin watches feature high-quality mechanical movements and each model is created in a limited series, with this version of the pared-down Spidolite II being made in just 75 examples. The 44mm titanium case is treated with a scratchproof Diamond Like Carbon (DLC) coating complemented by a rose-gold crown and detailing. Linde Werdelin watches can be bought direct from the firm’s London HQ via its website. £9,360; lindewerdelin.com

Bremont U-2 It’s just six years since British maker Bremont sold its first pilot’s watch, but the brand has garnered such respect in professional aviation circles that it has now produced more than 70 special editions for diferent military units around the world. One such edition was the U-2, which was originally made in 2010 for the crew of the USAF’s legendary spy plane of the same name.

Based on Bremont’s ultra-shock-resistant watch developed in conjunction with ejection seat maker Martin-Baker, the U-2 has subsequently been made available to civilians - most recently in this delectable, blue-dial version, which has a distinctive, knurled case barrel, also in blue, and an ‘exhibition’ back. £3,595; bremont.com

De Bethune DB27 Titan Hawk De Bethune was founded in 2002 by collector and watch fanatic David Zanetta. It’s a high-end, lowvolume maker that produces just a few hundred watches per year, each one exquisitely finished and combining traditional horological values with cutting-edge materials and techniques. Signature features of the collection include delicate, filgree hands, spring-loaded ‘floating’ case lugs and the use of silicon movement components. The DB27 Titan Hawk features a 44mm case made in mirror-polished, grade-five titanium, the back of which is fitted with a small window to reveal the balance wheel. The beautiful concave dial is available in either black or silver and has a central date indicator. £29,500; williamandson.com

FP Journe Chronometre Souverain Frenchman François-Paul Journe is frequently described as ‘the watchmaker’s watchmaker’ and, though he only established his eponymous dial name in 1999, his work has become highly sought after. Designed to last several lifetimes, Journe watches invariably have dials made in gold or silver, rather than conventional brass, and are produced almost entirely in-house at the rate of just 900 per year. The 38mm Chronomètre Souverain was inspired by the marine chronometers of old and is a true classic, featuring a handwound movement with 56 hours of power reserve from two mainspring barrels.

The movement’s base plate and bridges are red gold. £21,040; williamandson.com

Damasko DC 66 SI Germany’s Damasko is below the radar to all but the most committed horophiles. It made its name as a manufacturer of precision components for the aircraft and automotive industries and has patented numerous inventions. Its engineering experience has resulted in a series of watches with features that put the products of many more recognised brands in the shade - it makes its own main springs, ceramic rotors and ‘ice-hardened’ steel. The DC 66 SI contains a lightened, modified and more resilient version of the celebrated Valjoux 7750 Swiss chronograph movement and has a case finished in Damasko’s special ‘Damest’ protective coating. £2,400; pageandcooper.com

Mühle Glashütte Terranaut 1 Trail Glashütte in former East Germany is home to several high-end watch brands, notably A Lange and Sühne and Glashütte Original, but there’s only one surviving family-owned dial name: Mühle Glashütte. It makes afordable, functional sports watches inspired by its history as a producer of marine chronometers and timing systems.

The Terranaut 1 Trail pilot-style watch ofers exceptional legibility, thanks to its cream Superluminova hands and markings, which are set against a black dial – note, in particular, the triangular-shaped seconds indicator. The 44mm case has a modified Valjoux 7750 movement with ‘blued’ screws and Mühle Glashütte’s winding rotor and bridges. £2,240; pageandcooper.com

M ESURE ET D ÉMESURE *

TONDA QUATOR Rose gold Automatic movement Hermès alligator strap Made in Switzerland

* EXACT AND EXULTANT

www.parmigiani.ch

LONDON ARIJE | ASPREY | HARRODS YORK HARPERS CHELTENHAM BEARDS FOR FURTHER STOCKIST INFORMATION CONTACT 020 3355 7702

Psi - One To Watch www.corneyandbarrow.com

ONES TO WATCH | BRUMMELL 43

Brummell is proud to celebrate the tremendous talent coming through in the financial services sector and its peripheries. From a wide range of nominations, we asked our expert panel to select 30 men and women under 40 who have the potential to rise to the top. They have all demonstrated a high level of skill, energy and ambition, contributing to industry change and supporting and inspiring others.

Words Rosie Steer Photography Philip Sinden Co-ordination Duncan McRae With thanks to all who suggested nominees

The panel CANdiCE AdAM Managing director, Argentus PR Candice Adam founded strategic communications consultancy Argentus PR in 2010. It advises organisations in a range of sectors, including commodities trading, mining, OTC derivatives trading, post-trade risk management and commercial property.

MikE BURTON Managing director, Quorum 15 Mike Burton established Quorum 15 in 2008 – a networking organisation that provides thought leaders from the world’s foremost investment banks and buy-side companies with a neutral meeting ground to work and communicate more efectively with each other.

RACHEL STEWART Markets & infrastructure search, Odgers Berndtson Rachel Stewart leads Markets & Infrastructure search in the global financial services practice at Odgers Berndtson, which is ranked number 1 in the UK, and is a director of Women in Listed Derivatives London Ltd. She has conducted ‘rising star’ analyses for clients.

VANESSA VALLELy Founder, WeAreTheCity. com, and co-founder, Network of Networks Vanessa Vallely is one of the City’s best-connected women. She co-founded the Network of Networks, a City-wide diversity group that includes diversity heads from 46 FTSE firms, and founded leading women’s information network WeAreTheCity.com.

dANiEL WONG Head of power and utilities, infrastructure and real estate, EMEA, Macquarie Capital Daniel Wong is senior MD at Macquarie Capital. Over 14 years, he has led more than 40 client transactions in the infrastructure sector, including regulated water companies, transmission networks, power stations and renewables projects.

ONES TO WATCH 45

Julita Lange ←

Mark Davies →

Associate director, Lloyds Banking Group

General manager, Avox

Julita Lange is associate director at Lloyds Banking Group and responsible for the marketing of risk management and derivative products to corporate clients.

After graduating from the Warsaw School of Economics, she worked in management consulting before moving to the UK to embark on her financial career, working at Merrill Lynch and GLG-Man. She is passionate about networking, supporting women in business through Women in Banking and Finance, Women Who Connect and Women in the City. She also supports the Tower Hamlets charity mentoring programme.

Outside work, Lange is business partner at Manifattura Donna, a fashion company specialising in clothes for businesswomen, and draws on her experiences working at investment houses to advise on the creation of versatile and feminine workwear.

Mark Davies joined DTCC last year to lead its European eforts around the development of the legal-entity identifier – a global initiative created in response to new regulations for reducing systemic risk.

In January of this year, he became head of Avox, which is a DTCC subsidiary and specialist in business entity data management. His role is to expand the pool of shared data, and help clients improve data quality ahead of new reporting requirements. Formerly, he held senior roles at RBS, managing group risk data, and Barclays Capital, where he managed the legal-entity reference data team.

He is a member of various industry advisory groups, including the Global Financial Markets Association’s LEI executive steering committee and the Financial Stability Board’s LEI Industry group.

Asita Anche Managing director, Goldman Sachs Asita Anche has played a very significant role in shaping the electronic landscape in the face of regulations and evolving market space. She is currently a managing director at Goldman Sachs, responsible for quantitative fixed income algorithmic trading and strategies. Previously, she ran the high-frequency electronic-trading desk for Citadel Investment Group.

She graduated from the University of Illinois in 2004 and is passionate about education, literature and the arts. She serves on the Vanguard Business School Board of Advisors, which is dedicated to providing higher education in India.

Mary-Anne Anderson Director of business development and marketing, EMEA, Reed Smith Mary-Anne Anderson is director of EMEA business development and marketing at international law firm Reed Smith, specialising in thought leadership, branding and sales initiatives. She was a key figure in the 'Gender Balancing: it's Good Business' report, commissioned by Reed Smith in partnership with Winmark, which surveyed a range of leading UK firms to determine the level of commitment to gender diversity.

She is also chairperson of the South African Chamber of Commerce in the UK, and was instrumental in its establishment.

Stuart Baden Powell Director and head of European electronic trading at RBC Capital Markets Stuart Baden Powell is a director and head of European electronic trading at Royal Bank of Canada Capital Markets. He is a member of the London equities-trading quorum and sits on the Quorum 15 advisory board in Sydney, Australia. Baden Powell has written articles in publications that include the Financial News and Financial Times and is an associate editor for The Journal of Trading. He sits on the board of the advocacy group the Association for Financial Markets in Europe and is co-chairman of EMEA at standards body FIX Protocol.

Antoine Bisson Head of execution and co-head of trading, Exane BNP Paribas Antoine Bisson is an experienced trader who is highly regarded in European finance and widely considered one of the best in the industry. He joined Deutsche Bank in 2004 from Morgan Stanley as one of the company’s star traders – he was head of execution sales and managing director of the bank’s European equities business. He left the firm last year as one of 1,900 layofs made by the company and recently joined Exane BNP Paribas in London as head of execution and co-head of trading, responsible for high-touch, program trading and electronic trading.

00 46 BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE ONES TO WATCH

Christian Nentwich ← Founder, Duco Christian Nentwich taught himself programming at a young age and studied computer science at University College London before completing a PhD. He co-founded Systemwire Ltd with his supervisors, which he went on to sell to Message Automation. He became involved with the financial services industry after the International Swaps and Derivatives Association’s call for greater control of the nascent FpML standard for Over-the-Counter derivatives, founding and chairing its validation working group.

He adapts leading research for businesses with Model Two Zero, recently rebranded as Duco, which proved its potential to play a disruptive role in the new financial services landscape, winning investment from Euclid Opportunities and ICAP.

Laura Cofey Chief of staf, Lloyds Banking Group Laura Cofey is currently chief of staf to the group brands and marketing director of Lloyds Banking Group. Formerly, she worked for the Prime Minister’s strategy unit; Cofey was inspired to set up FutureReach, a social enterprise aiming to level the playing field for high-potential disadvantaged young people through paid pre-university internships between school and university, and schools workshops on employability skills.

Emily Browne Director, financial accounting advisory services, Ernst & Young Emily Browne is currently a director of financial accounting advisory services within the assurance division at Ernst & Young. She splits her career between London and Sydney, specialising in financial reporting and accounting advisory. A former co-chair of the Ernst & Young Women’s Network in the UK and Ireland, she inspires colleagues to be active members and help each other develop their careers.

Syreeta Brown Director of professional resourcing, EMEA, Citi Syreeta Brown leads Citi's professional hiring and sourcing strategy across 55 countries.

She works with business heads and heads of HR in the region on programmes to support talent acquisition. She was previously at BT Group, where she led change initiatives, including revising global performance management strategy. She is also passionate about providing better support for parents of children with autism.

Corvin Codirla Co-founder, CCFX Corvin Codirla began his financial career at JP Morgan, working in market risk management, before moving to start-up fund Brevan Howard to be responsible for risk infrastructure and developing trading models. Recently, he worked with Deutsche Bank to redesign risk systems and develop new intraday trading models. In 2011, he established CCFX with Partner Capital, a foreign-exchange-focused fund targeting elective professional and institutional investors.

Chantal Constable Sales director, Capco Chantal Constable co-founded Capco's women’s network and has informed its global diversity policy, high-performing women’s development programme and networking events, including a partnership with Lloyds Banking Group Breakthrough Women.

Her work was instrumental in securing its position in The Times' Top 50 Employers for Women 2013 list. She is a mentor with the City University and Women in Banking and Finance programmes.

Marian Elliott → Director, Spence & Partners Marian Elliott relocated to Britain from her native South Africa at the age of 24 and became a fully qualified actuary.

She is now director of Spence & Partners – her second appointment as a director within the industry – and heads up the company's national Trustee Advisory practice. Elliott is a popular contributor to the press on a range of topics relating to pensions, and also writes a regular blog for the website pensionfundsonline.co.uk, which has gone some way to changing the popular perception of the profession. Her passion and ability to cut through the volume of pensions advice is infectious.

She is also a Fellow of the Institute and Faculty of Actuaries and sits on the Consulting Editorial Board of Lexis PSL Pensions.

Nathalie Dauriac-Stoebe Founder and chief executive Signia Wealth Nathalie Dauriac-Stoebe was the youngest partner at Coutts & Co, where she led the international proposition for clients with foreign domicile, and was one of four founding members of the Coutts Private Ofce, which focused on advising ultra-high-net-worth clients. She went on to set up her own company, Signia Wealth, and recently won the Spear’s Award for Future Leader in the Wealth Management Industry.

Deborah Fenn Private banker, Barclays Wealth and Investment Management Deborah Fenn joined Barclays Wealth and Investment Management in 2011, where she focuses on financial-market professionals and aims to develop the bank’s appeal to high-net worth women.

She supports Barclays’ mentoring programme and assists at her former school’s careers convention days. She balances a successful career with sporting excellence as part of the Great Britain rifle team.

Vincent Francois Regional group head of audit, Société Genérale Vincent Francois began his career at Société Genérale in Frankfurt, before moving to London with Dresdner Bank Group. He is now responsible for Société Genérale's activities across 10 countries. He created its first UK LGBT network and raised the profile of its inclusion activities: sponsoring the Diversity Careers Show, European Diversity Awards and Stonewall Summer Party, and organising the European Diversity Conference in Paris.

Ben Hayward Founder, TwentyFour Asset Management Ben Hayward is one of the seven founding partners of independent fixed-income boutique TwentyFour Asset Management. Over four years, the company has grown to £1.7bn assets under management.

He is responsible for managing the European ABS business and co-managing the TwentyFour Income and Monument Bond Funds.

He speaks at industry conferences and educational events for investors new to the asset-backed space.

Anita Karppi Founder, K&K Global Consulting and Alpha Trader Forum Anita Karppi launched the Alpha Trader Forum (ATF) for head traders, asset managers and hedge funds in the UK, France and the Nordics. ATF facilitates roundtables at which head traders discuss in a closed-door environment issues driving industry change. She opened the market at the London Stock Exchange at the 2013 European Summit and is writing the first ‘Buy Side Perspectives’ reports.

00 BRUMMELL | FEATURE TITLE

00 ONES FEATURE TO WATCH TITLE | BRUMMELL 49

Nik Bienkowski ← Nicola Hradek → Co-CEO and founder, Boost ETP

Manager, sustainability, community and employee engagement, global banking and markets, HSBC

Nik Bienkowski has worked within the Exchange Traded Fund (ETF) industry for more than 10 years and is regarded as a leading specialist in the sector by his peers. He and his partner, Hector McNeil, have been in the market since its European genesis. He played an instrumental role in the growth and formation of Exchange Trading Commodities provider ETF Securities, where he worked as managing partner alongside McNeil. The pair went on to found Boost ETP, an independent provider of Exchange Traded Products (ETP). The company specialises in three- timesleveraged and short ETPs, which provide leveraged returns to the world’s major financial indices, such as FTSE, as well as commodities, such as gold – the first of its kind within Europe.

Nicola Hradek is a highly motivated, enthusiastic manager who is driven by diversity and passionate about inclusion in business. She was recently appointed co-chair of Balance, where she has been instrumental in the expansion of HSBC’s largest network group for employees around the world, focusing on career advancement and gender intelligence. Her involvement in gender diversity extends to the Women on the Wharf network, for which she chairs the events sub-committee.

Beyond the world of work, Hradek mentors schoolchildren in Tower Hamlets and regularly takes part in a Business Enterprise scheme, which encourages young people, with guidance from professionals, to construct and work through a business plan.

Sharron Khela Director, Citigroup Sharron Khela is responsible, in her current role, and as global head of market infrastructures at Citi Transaction Services, for building international relationships as well as developing new intermediary client segments. Since joining the company’s American depositary receipts team in New York in 2000, she has excelled in various positions in both Citigroup’s London and New York ofces, as she has been promoted through the ranks. Khela is actively involved in the company's graduate recruitment process as well as being a passionate mentor to younger members of staf.

Anup Kollanethu Managing director, global operations, Aviva Investors Anup Kollanethu has worked across Aviva Group’s organisations around the world for 12 years.

He is currently managing director of global operations and outsourcing.

He has run large-scale operations and managed significant strategic transformation projects in UK life insurance, such as ofshoring, and driven through programmes with the aim of raising efciency gains. He was founding member of one of India’s largest internet consultancies, later sold as part of industry consolidation, and has provided consulting services to financial institutions in Europe.

Polina Kurdyavko Senior portfolio manager at BlueBay Asset Management Polina Kurdyavko is of Armenian descent and was raised in Moscow, where she taught English from the age of 14 to fund her studies, before moving to America.

Her first job in fund management was at Alliance Capital, where she worked full-time while studying for her master’s degree. In 2005, Kurdyavko joined BlueBay Asset Management as a credit analyst and, last year, worked her way up to partner. She is responsible for managing the company’s emerging market corporate bond fund, which is now one of the largest funds in the sector.

Raphael Mokades Founder and managing director, Rare In 2005, Raphael Mokades founded recruitment company Rare, with no previous recruitment experience, no candidates or clients, and a desk in someone else’s ofce. Rare now has over 3,000 candidates on its books and works with some of the UK’s most prestigious companies. He has written about business, sport and social issues for The Guardian, The Times and Financial Times and co-authored five Rare research reports about race and recruitment.

He also penned Three Steps to Success, a careers, CV and interview guide for young people.

50 BRUMMELL | ONES 00 FEATURE TO WATCH TITLE

Danielle Ballardie ← Managing director, business development, NYSE Euronext Danielle Ballardie is considered one of the European infrastructure industry's most influential female trading executives. She is responsible for NYSE Euronext's sales and client coverage for northern Europe in fixed-income currencies and commodities and equities. She was formerly director of electronic distribution at Barclays Capital, where she developed the equities electronic platform and was charged with making Liquidity Cross, the bank’s broker-crossing network or ‘dark pool’, the market leader in Europe. She also spent eight years on product development and technology sales at the London Stock Exchange, where she was instrumental in preparing the exchange for European regulatory harmonisation initiatives.

David Robinson Investment manager, Dalton Strategic Partnership David Robinson qualified as a lawyer with Freshfields Bruckhaus Deringer, then embarked on a career in investment management, joining Dalton Strategic Partnership.

As lead analyst, he helped launch the Melchior European Fund, which was awarded the 2011 EuroHedge Equity Long Short Fund of the Year for funds over $500m. He is also the investment manager of the Melchior Selected Trust European Opportunities Fund.

Adrienne Muir Head of operations and people, Trayport Adrienne Muir has a broad range of technology, exchange and senior management experience and is a member of the executive management team at Trayport.

She acts as a mentor both within Trayport and across the industry and champions the company’s corporate social responsibility initiatives, which have had a significant impact on the South London community. A director of Women in Listed Derivatives UK, she is currently studying for a postgraduate certificate in the psychology of organisational development and change.

Kathryn Porter Director, commodities markets division, Société Genérale Kathryn Porter is part of Société Genérale’s physical gas and power trading business, developing tailored risk management and financing services for clients in the energy sector. She has closed several innovative transactions, providing new value-added solutions and opening new business streams.

She is head of Société Genérale’s UK Women’s Network, which addresses gender-balance issues, and represents the company on the Women on the Wharf steering committee. She is a chartered fellow of the Chartered Institute for Securities and Investments.

Hamish Purdey Chief executive, FfastFill plc Hamish Purdey is currently chief executive of AIM-listed company FFastFill plc and has held this position for four years. He previously managed both Asian and North American businesses as chief operating ofcer. He has extensive legal, technical and architectural understanding and started his first technology consulting company at the age of 23. His hard work, vision and strong customer focus have driven development of FFastFill and he is currently presiding over its integration into ION Trading, which launched a £110m takeover ofer for the company earlier this year.

Adam Toms Chief executive, Instinet Europe Limited Adam Toms is the CEO of Instinet Europe Limited. He was previously co-global head of electronic trading at Nomura, which recently combined its execution services business with Instinet. He joined Nomura as part of the company’s acquisition of Lehman Brothers, where he worked for eight years as a member of the global portfolio trading team then as head of sales. Prior to this, Toms was a trader on the central dealing desk at Barclays Global Investors and a member of the team that launched the first European Exchange Traded Fund for the iShares brand.

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Subject to availability. Finance example is based on an Alphera Select finance agreement for the model stated with a total contract mileage of 18,000 and an excess mileage charge of 23.00 pence per mile. †On the road cash price is based on manufacturer’s recommended retail price and includes a 3 year warranty, 12 months’ road fund licence, vehicle first registration fee, delivery and VAT. ** Optional final payment payable at the end of the agreement if you decide to purchase the vehicle. Excess mileage charges and vehicle condition charges may be payable if you return the vehicle. Figures are correct at time of publication (April 2013) and are subject to change without notice. Finance is subject to status and available to over 18s in the UK only (excluding the Channel Islands and Isle of Man). Guarantees and indemnities may be required. Advertised finance and terms and conditions are provided by ALPHERA Financial Services, Europa House, Bartley Way, Hook, Hampshire RG27 9UF. Full vehicle specification and terms and conditions are available at www.astonmartin.com/777

Making good A band of emerging entrepreneurs are carving out careers with a diference, finding their inspiration in some unusual places words Charlie Teasdale Photography Trent McMinn

CrEaTIVE TalEnT | BrUMMEll 53

handy work Opposite: Melanie Georgacopoulos in her workshop. This page: Jezz Skelton and Ben Harrison, with one of their Mangos

Melanie Georgacopoulos, pearl jewellery designer Pearls have been a statement of wealth, beauty and taste for centuries, but as wonderful as they may be, designer Melanie Georgacopoulos believes it’s time they underwent a modern makeover. From her studio in the heart of London’s jewellery quarter, she’s doing just that, capturing the mystic qualities of raw pearls to make stunning, modern works of art.

Georgacopoulos is half-French and halfGreek and grew up in Greece. She first started making jewellery at the age of 15. ‘My parents are both creative, so when I was young I was encouraged to experiment with diferent materials. And I liked the fact that jewellery is not just art, but it can be worn, too.’

After studying traditional jewellery-making techniques in Greece, sculpture in Edinburgh, then jewellery once again at the Royal College of Art (RCA) in London, Georgacopoulos worked as a freelance designer for a small jewellery company. ‘When I finished at the RCA, I didn’t want to start my own company immediately. However, by 2010, I was getting much more work independently so I decided to formally establish my brand – I could see there was a market for what I was doing.’

The young designer believed there was a serious lack of progressive and contemporary pearl jewellery on the market, which is why she started experimenting with the material, cutting it and creating rarely seen facets.

‘I want to make jewellery that’s new – I don’t want to replicate what’s been done over the past 100 years. I want to challenge people.’

Georgacopoulos finds inspiration in all manner of diferent places, ‘I gather it from all over – I travel a lot, I read, I go to the cinema, I look at what people wear and, somehow, it all comes out in my jewellery.’

She describes herself as an artisan first and a businesswoman second, but hers is a pearl of an idea that deserves to succeed. melaniegeorgacopoulos.com

Jezz Skelton and Ben harrison, customisable-cycle makers Few can have failed to notice the huge increase in cyclists in the UK. Yes, the two-wheeled renaissance was boosted by the Olympian eforts of Sir Bradley and co, but for the past few years, cycling has been on the up.

A couple of guys who caught on early to that trend and its potential are Jezz Skelton and Ben Harrison, who launched Mango Bikes in 2012. ‘Whenever I got bored of studying at university, I’d look for business ideas,’ says Skelton. ‘Ben and I had noticed there wasn’t a seller of student-specific, fashionable and reasonably priced bikes, so we set about creating a brand that could ofer that.’ A mere six months later, the duo had conducted market research, tested samples, set up a website and placed the first order with their parts suppliers in the Far East. It sold out before it had even arrived.

The Mango, the company’s one and only model (so far), is made up of a high-tensile

steel frameset, road wheels and single-speed gearing. Its USP is that it can be completely personalised. The frame, saddle, grips, rims, tyres, pedals and even chain are ofered in a selection of bold colours, afording the rider a traditionally inaccessible uniqueness.

In the brief time the company has been in operation, Mango Bikes has sold more than 1,000 units and it would seem their success is set to continue. Over the next year, it will be launching a new range that includes a women’s step-through frame, a child’s bike and even a limited-edition 16-speed racer. The boys are also looking at expanding into selling cycling components, accessories and clothing. ‘We’re currently in talks with a few major fashion brands – from next year, we’ll definitely be linked up with one of them,’ says Skelton.

If the two-wheeled fraternity isn’t already aware of Mango Bikes, it very soon will be. mangobikes.co.uk

54 BrUmmeLL | creative taLent their own maKing This page: Joshua Kane in clothes he designed and tailored himself. Opposite: Jenny Dawson restocks a deli’s display of her chutney

Jenny Dawson, maker of ethical chutney

Joshua Kane, tailor Contemporary British tailoring is enjoying a period of great success, with local names moving from the fringes into the mainstream.

Among the world’s leading designers is our own Paul Smith, and the tailor who helps shape his brand’s distinctive look – literally – is Joshua Kane.

Kane is one of the rising stars of British fashion. As senior menswear designer at Paul Smith, he is responsible for creating pieces for the London collection – the brand’s formal line. He had never been that interested in fashion - it took a two-week module within his art and design degree course to change his mind. ‘I mocked it at first, but soon after starting it, I realised it excited me more than anything else had in the past.’

His career trajectory had been permanently altered. Fashion and tailoring soon became his passion – one that he still ‘eats, breathes and lives’ to this day. He worked at Burberry

Prorsum on the catwalk collections for a couple of years before moving to Paul Smith, but throughout that time, he has always made his own clothes and taken private commissions for bespoke pieces. ‘There’s always a lot of interest from people who want me to make suits for them, but I’m so busy, I only get the chance to do the odd one every now and then. Of course, my focus is on Paul Smith, but if someone wants something really interesting, it’s very hard to say no!

Unique and standout style is of the utmost importance to Kane, which is perhaps why he is so perfectly suited for working alongside Paul Smith. ‘There’s an old saying that you have to learn the rules before you can break them, and that’s very much the approach I take in tailoring. When I make something, I’m more than happy to push it to the extreme because I know that’s inevitably the way I’ll get the very best results.’

The numbers – 16 million tonnes of food wasted a year and more than a billion people around the world going hungry – may not add up, but fortunately one company is taking action to balance the books.

Rubies in the Rubble operates on a simple premise: take the waste and turn it into something great. In 2010, founder and former hedge-fund manager Jenny Dawson was researching wasted food and found herself shocked by her findings. ‘It really bothered me that we bring all this produce into the country and then it doesn’t even make it to our shops,’ she says. Losing interest in the world of finance and wondering what was to be done with all the surplus food, she decided to start a company that took spare produce direct from the wholesalers and made it into something sellable, employing underprivileged and out-of-work London women in the process.

It started with chutney, something that Dawson had often made with her mother during her bucolic childhood on the west coast of Scotland. She and her team cooked up the chutneys and sold them at local markets. They proved popular, with buyers warming to the story and understanding that Rubies in the Rubble made food that was as ethically minded as it was delicious.

Dawson hopes the company will expand and she can set up bases across the UK and maybe even beyond. ‘Rubies in the Rubble was always meant to be an umbrella brand, making a range of diferent products while sticking to a core principle.’ The chutneys are currently stocked in numerous delis and department stores, and have just been given the green light

by Waitrose. Without a doubt, it won’t be long before Rubies in the Rubble is your default dinner accompaniment or go-to condiment. rubiesintherubble.com

56 BRUMMELL | styLE

Grey matter Trans-seasonal sartorialism can be tricky, but there’s one shade the style intelligentsia all agree on Photography Tomo Brejc styling Tamara Fulton

gREy EconoMy Opposite: Engineered micro-design jacquard two-button jacket, £1,075, Alexander McQueen. Cotton shirt £311, Brunello cucinelli.

Tie, £75, Paul smith This page: Slim-fit box-fit tweed jacket, £995, and cotton shirt, £225, both Burberry Prorsum. Knit bow tie, £132, Brioni.

Glasses £295, cutler & gross, Dressage watch, £6,100, Hermès

sTyle | BrUmmell 59

Éminence grise Opposite: Check threepiece suit, £825, and brogues £295, both Hackett. Cotton shirt, £199, Paul smith.

Bow tie, £129, Tom Ford at Harrods. Dressage watch, as before.

Ostrich-leather Tony bag, £3,000, mulberry

grey AreA This page: Windowpanecheck jacket, £545, and cotton shirt, £95, both Daks. Silk tie, £75, Paul smith. Silk handkerchief,

£29, Thomas Pink.

Glasses, £295, cutler & gross, Tenter work bag, £445, cherchbi

60 BrUMMell | STyle

earl grey This page: Three-piece suit (waistcoat not shown), £780; cashmere jumper, £285; cotton shirt, £165, all Paul Smith london

Opposite: Double-breasted suit, £1,400, and cotton shirt, £339, both Pal Zileri.

Bow tie, £129, Tom Ford at Harrods. Villeret Ultra

Slim 8.7mm watch with a stainless-steel case and an automatic movement with date display, £6,790, Blancpain

Model Ty at Premier grooming Marcia Lee at Caren Photographer’s assistant Jem Rigby

Stylist’s assistants Cat Stirling and Lucy Zondi STOCKISTS DETAILS: PAGE 62

61

62 BRUMMELL | BY GEORGE

FAMiLY AFFAiR Hugo’s spring/summer 2013 collection

Who’s the Boss?

Hugo Boss sibling Hugo is proving Germany can do progressive fashion

German fashion flies under the radar of the international scene: stereotype has it that it is the French or Italians, the Brits or the Americans who own the fashion capitals and shape the trends. German fashion, in fact, has seemed oxymoronic. And yet next year, Hugo Boss – the giant that arguably defined the squareshouldered, square-jawed, ultra-masculine ‘Boss Man’ look of the Eighties – turns 90.

But before those celebrations, Hugo Boss’s ofshoot turns 20. Hugo is its sub-brand of edgier, unconventional and more progressive menswear and womenswear and it has gone some way to putting German fashion into the directional camp, even if, in recent years, that has been down to an Englishman and a Belgian.

Hugo’s two, largely anonymous creatives are Eyan Allen, the Leeds-born designer who joined the company in 2007 to oversee Hugo womenswear, and Bart de Backer, who was taken on in 2008 to steer menswear.

It was as a menswear line that Hugo was launched in 1993 (womenswear came five years later), precisely to prove the Metzingenbased Hugo Boss AG, with a long pedigree in solid suits, could also do avant-garde. And while avant-garde may not now be so in demand – Hugo is reported to account for a small proportion of the parent company’s overall sales, sizeable though they are – it made its timely point in creating collections that reflected changing, increasingly 24/7 ways of living.

Much as in the Seventies, under founder Hugo Boss’s grandsons Uwe and Jochen Holy,

the company was one of the first clothing manufacturers in Germany to undergo modernisation of its production facilities and harness the power of massive advertising campaigns, so in the Nineties it was one of the first anywhere to see that the way we dressed was changing. The new Hugo wardrobe was neither so formal it looked misplaced out of the boardroom nor so casual anyone would think you were about to mow the lawn – especially if you were Hugo frontwoman Gwyneth Paltrow.

That is perhaps all the more the case with the forthcoming autumn/winter collections.

Those seeking elegant but modern clothing might well invest in De Backer’s super-streamlined suits, with rich details such as leather-patch shoulders and lapels, and Allen’s equally chic womenswear. Naturally enough, having learnt to channel Germanic rigour, both designers rarely stray far from a neutral palette, bar the odd touch of Hugo’s house colour, red. However, nor are they afraid to push harder against Hugo Boss’ lucrative conservatism.

The womenswear collection includes twists that prevent it becoming too understated: the likes of geometric cut-outs, space-age funnel-neck blousons and seriously deep, sexy necklines, while the menswear has sleeveless trench coats, V-neck tops with almost pagoda shoulders and trousers with leather waistbands. It might still be too quiet to be rock’n’roll, but who now can say the Germans are good only at making cars? hugoboss.com Words Josh Sims

Stockists Alexander McQueen 020 7494 8840; alexandermcqueen.com Blancpain 0845 273 2500; blancpain.com Burberry Prorsum 020 7968 0582; burberry.com Brioni 020 7491 7700 Brunello Cucinelli brunellocucinelli.com Cherchbi cherchbi.co.uk Cutler & Gross 020 7581 2250, cutlerandgross.com

Daks 0800 028 8640; daks.com Hackett 020 7939 6865; hackett.com Harrods 020 7730 1234; harrods.com Hermès 020 7499 8856 hermes.com Mulberry 020 7491 3900; mulberry.com Pal Zileri 020 7225 2999 palzileri.com Paul Smith London 0800 023 4006; paulsmith.com Thomas Pink 020 7498 3882; thomaspink.com

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