Brummell December

december 2011

the little black book for the city

Rising stars banking’s stellar performers / cars for pure fun / hippest ski destinations most exclusive clubs / hunting wild boar / stylish, glamorous accessories

Breguet, the innovator

Invention of hand-guilloché dials, 1786 Around 1786, Breguet created a resolutely new style by introducing dials adorned with gold or silver guilloché work. Today, this form of authentic hand craftsmanship is still one of the distinctive characteristics of a Breguet watch. A heritage proudly perpetuated in the Classique 7337BR model with its silvered gold dial adorned with five different hand-guilloché patterns. History is still being written… www.breguet.com/inventions

BREGUET BOUTIQUE – 10A NEW BOND STREET

LONDON W1S 3SP

+ 4 4 2 0 7 3 5 5 17 3 5 – W W W. B R E G U E T. C O M

List of Boutiques available on www.chanel.com

U LTR A RI N GS 18 K W H I T E G O L D , C E R A M I C A N D D I A M O N D S

CONTENTS | BRUMMELL

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by Andrew Clark

Show Media Brummell editorial 020 3222 0101 Editor Joanne Glasbey Art Director Dominic Bell Associate Editor Henry Farrar-Hockley Chief Copy Editor Chris Madigan Picture Editor Juliette Hedoin Designer Hillary Jayne Copy Editors Sarah Evans, Ming Liu, Rupert Mellor Fashion Director Tamara Fulton Creative Director Ian Pendleton Managing Director Peter Howarth Advertising & Events Director Duncan McRae duncan@flyingcoloursmarketing.com 07816 218059

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Visit Brummell’s website for more tailor-made content:

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Desmond Mucklan; Andy Barter

brummellmagazine.net

Brummell is designed and produced by Show Media Ltd and distributed with Financial News. All material © Show Media Ltd. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. £5 (where sold). Reader offers are the responsibility of the organisation making the offer – Show Media accepts no liabillity regarding offers.

Money no object Chopard jewellery that’s fit for a movie star on the red carpet at Cannes

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Beaumonde

showmedia.net brummell@showmedia.net

Colour reproduction by Fresh Media Group, wearefmg.com Printed by The Manson Group, manson-grp.co.uk

Foreword To be successful, notes David Charters, it’s not enough to be good any more. You have to be virtuous – and seen to be so, too.

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News Winston Churchill’s pen; Yul Brynner’s photos and Paul Smith’s favourite material Fragrances We clear the miasma of new fragrances to find the scents that make sense Technology Entertainment and business gadgets that pack impressive power in compact packages Skiing Luxury holidays in the Alps that minimise hassle and maximise time on the slopes After the City Both venture capitalist and entrepreuneur, Greg Marsh’s latest idea is the ‘unhotel’

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Rising stars of investment banking Meet eight of the high-flyers who made Financial News’s 40 Under 40 list Shooting Act out your Asterix fantasies, hunting wild boar on an estate in the hills of Tuscany Motoring Sports cars that make no apology for the fact that they are built purely for driving enjoyment Extreme sports clubs Gaining entry to these establishments takes more credentials than the right school tie Watches For all the automatic technology available, it is hand-wound watches that excite the purist Accessories This season’s most tactile gifts: handbags, iPad-holders, knitted ties, stylish hats Creative rising stars One (or rather four) in the eyes of ‘Britain no longer makes anything’ doomsayers

By George How watchmaking in Glashütte survived East German socialism to thrive once more

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www.blancpain.com Blancpain Boutiques aBu DHaBi · BeiJinG · cannes · DuBai · eKateRinBuRG · GeneVa · HonG KonG · Macau · MaDRiD · ManaMa MoscoW · MuMBai · MunicH · neW YoRK · paRis · sHanGHai · sinGapoRe · taipei · toKYo · ZuRicH

0845 273 2500

Villeret collection complete calendar Half-Hunter Patented under-lug correctors Secured calendar and moon-phases mechanism Ref. 6664-3642-55B

FOREWORD | bRUMMELL

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Shape up or ship out Success ain’t what it used to be. It’s no longer enough to be good at our jobs, pay our taxes and boost the economy by spending our bonuses. It’s time to moor up and reset our moral compass Words David Charters Illustration Brett Ryder

Success in the City has changed. There was a time when it was relatively easy to be successful.

All you had to do was work grindingly long hours, fend off intense competition from other firms and keep on performing, day after day after day. Easy. Anyone could do it. Well, almost.

Today, success is harder. Today, it is not enough simply to get results. It is how you get them, and what they are, that matters.

Ever since Adair Turner said we have to be socially useful, things have been different.

People who have never worked as hard as we do feel entitled to judge us. Journalists judge us. Even politicians do.

OK, so the banking crisis very nearly brought about the end of civilisation as we know it. And there are those who fear it will impoverish generations yet unborn.

And, of course, Main Street did have to bail out Wall Street, which is unforgiveable.

So I get the anger.

Once upon a time we were envied. Our champagne lifestyles, our spending power, the sheer awesomeness of our dazzling over-consumption left mere mortals in the dust. Today, the mood music has changed completely. An awful lot of people don’t just question us – they actually despise us.

Yes, they still envy our homes, cars, clothes, jewellery and art, and would probably swap bank balances in a heartbeat if we gave them the chance, but they would do it with a curled lip and a superior air. To many of us, spoilt by decades of what appeared to be entirely justified entitlement to the best things in life, the natural order seems to have been overturned. Of course we had an abundance of… well, everything, really… but we earned it.

Sort of. I suppose bull markets helped a bit.

Nowadays, try offering a glass of Krug to your neighbours on bonus day and the chances are they will turn away with a supercilious shrug and say they don’t think it is appropriate after what the banking industry has put the country through. Well, it may not be appropriate for them, but some of us enjoy champagne on bonus day. In fact, some of us enjoy it every day, because, in a sense, every day is bonus day – at least when you compare our lives with theirs. And fine cigars, too. And, of course, exotic holidays, meals in the best restaurants, and tickets to the Opera House.

But somehow… something is missing.

When you work as hard as we do, but then can’t enjoy the fine things in life, at least with a completely clear conscience, something has gone wrong. Or maybe right. Success today has to be broader than before. It has to encompass not just the fine things in life, but the good things, too. And I don’t mean ‘good’ as in vintage champagne.

However unfair it may seem, today, the investment-banking industry needs to be able to face its critics and explain that its activities benefit someone other than the people who work for investment banks. The starting point for the commentators and those who would impose greater regulation on us is that we will do almost anything legal for money, regardless

Success today has to encompass not just the fine things in life, but the good things, too. And not ‘good’ as in vintage champagne

of good or ill. In other words, we have no moral compass and only the most basic ethical standards. So we have to be more selective about what we do and how we do it, and we have to be prepared to tell our story to a sceptical audience.

As if that wasn’t hard enough, we are also likely to be judged in our private lives. By most standards, we still earn huge sums and are among the most affluent in society. The fact we pay our taxes and don’t break any laws isn’t quite enough in many people’s eyes – and don’t try saying that we spend all that money and boost the economy that way.

Today’s successful bankers are expected to give back to society, both directly in a financial sense and indirectly in terms of the way they put their talent to work for the social good.

The fundamental difference between the rising stars of today and those of 20 years ago is that, in the past, it was sufficient just to be great at your job, make a lot of money, then keep it and spend it on yourself. Today, the bar has been raised. Of course you have to be good at your job, but you put your money to work wisely and there is no holding back when good causes need support. And if all you do is your job, with no time to give to serve as, say, the trustee of a charity or a member of the development board of some great cultural institution, then you risk looking like a selfish under-achiever. No time? Find the time.

Organise yourself properly. If it sounds terribly unfair, perhaps it is. Or perhaps the past that seemed so natural was, in fact, an anomaly. Either way, life is tougher now.

The Ego’s Nest, by David Charters, the fifth novel in the series about City anti-hero Dave Hart, is published by Elliott & Thompson, priced £6.99

Glashßtte Original – 165 years of German watchmaking art.

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bRUMMELL

MONEY NO OBJECT Chopard’s exquisite Red Carpet collection highlights the company’s strong partnership with the silver screen Words Joanne Glasbey Photography Andy Barter

Swiss luxury watch and jewellery brand Chopard has been an important official partner of the prestigious Cannes Film Festival for many years, even redesigning the Palme d’Or trophy, which is annually awarded to the director of the best film, and more recently creating ‘mini-palmes’ for the best actor and actress awards. Each year, Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, dreams up a new high jewellery collection for the glitzy event, specifically to be worn at the ritual known as ‘the mounting of the steps’ on the Croisette. Chopard creates unique, original pieces for every actress participating in the

festival, whether up-and-coming or established star. Each finds the jewellery that best fits her personality and highlights her beauty. This year’s Red Carpet collection embraced the theme of springtime and the transformation of the seasons, with bejewelled interpretations of nature’s new life and evocations of sunny days. This vibrant bracelet, adorned with multicoloured spinels, paved with orange sapphires and white diamonds, and set in rose gold, is a splendid example of the creations worn to stunning effect by starlets and screen legends at cinema’s most glamorous event.

Price on application; chopard.com

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A Daimler Brand

Occasionally, a headline is unnecessary.

The new 6.3 litre V8 SLS AMG Roadster.

Official government fuel consumption figures in MPG (Litres per 100km) for the SLS AMG Roadster: Urban SLS AMG Roadster at £182,505.00 on the road including optional Sepang Brown paint at £1,755.00, 19"/20" AMG forged wheels – 10-spoke design at £1,715.00 and two-tone designo Exclusive

14.2 (19.9), Extra Urban 30.4 (9.3), Combined 21.4 (13.2). CO2 emissions: 308 g/km. Model featured is a Mercedes-Benz leather, Sand/Black, at ÂŁ2,140.00 (price includes VAT, delivery, 12 months Road Fund Licence, number plates, new vehicle registration fee and fuel). Prices correct at time of going to print.

NEWS | bEAumoNdE 25

Screen legend photographs, a decadent Hong Kong hotel and a few of britain’s finest brands

Suitable location Jaeger has just opened its first menswear store in Cabot Place West, Canary Wharf, with an emphasis on tailoring. Referencing the brand’s heritage, combined with its contemporary British designs, the Jaeger suit silhouette is defined by a tapered jacket waist and neatly cut trouser. The brand proudly promotes UK manufacturing and claims over 60 per cent of its tailoring is woven at British mills. jaeger.co.uk

Heart of Asia Privacy, glamour and the sense of space are what everyone in crowded Hong Kong craves. From the 56th floor of the Island Shangri-La Hotel you can breakfast or enjoy sundowners while gazing at Victoria Harbour. This is a true Grand Hotel in the old European style, reimagined for the Chinese century, with a standard of service to match its ambitions. Wonder at the world’s largest silk painting, over 16 stories, depicting ‘The Great Motherland of China’, and relax in the luxurious rooms. The Shangri-La is situated in a surprisingly quiet, leafy part of the Central district. Lying beside the large pool you can admire the iconic I M Pei-designed Bank of China Tower. Beneath is Pacific Place, four stories of shops, restaurants and entertainment. The hotel boasts several acclaimed restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Restaurant Petrus; fortunately there is also a 24-hour, fully equipped health club. shangri-la.com

Silver linings The future of personal organisation has arrived, with My Wealth Cloud. At the click of a mobile device or mouse, access to an ultra-secure online filing cabinet can revolutionise personal paperwork. Title deeds for property, authentication documents for works of art, birth certificates, guarantees, warranties – whatever you keep at home – can be collected by a consultant, then scanned, categorised, encrypted and uploaded for immediate retrieval in searchable order.

Reminders can be sent for every important date – insurance renewals, birthdays etc– and further documents can be added at any time. Float above the anxiety of losing valuable documents. mywealthcloud.com

british gem Among its many, perhaps glitzier, European counterparts, Boodles, the British, familyowned fine jewellery company, is a more quietly shining star that should be remembered when beautiful jewellery is on your mind. The Rococo suite takes inspiration from hand-embroidered silks and 18th-century style, when Baroque artists embraced playfulness and elaboration.

The curving lines so favoured of the time can be seen throughout the collection, often framing classical brilliant-cut diamonds – as in this exquisite yellow diamond ring. boodles.com

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Fine and dandy London-based Backes & Strauss describes itself as the world’s oldest diamond company, having been masters of diamonds since 1789.

Its watchmaking combines similar expertise: supreme craftsmanship, mathematical precision and the combination of art and science. Referencing Backes & Strauss’s provenance, the design team have created three unique watch collections: The Berkeley, The Piccadilly and The Regent. Crafted in 18ct white or rose gold and set with diamonds, they are inspired by London’s Regency architecture, notably that of John Nash. Two new pieces have recently been introduced celebrating this era of elegance and decadence: The Red Rose (pictured, £72,860) and The Blue Velvet (£68,580), inspired by rooms within the Prince Regent’s palatial Carlton House. backesandstrauss.com

Winnie the pen Winston Churchill once maintained, ‘I have always earned my living by my pen and by my tongue’, and the fountain pens he used through both world wars, and for much of his writing, were British-made Onoto.

To celebrate the link between the great man and Onoto pens, the Churchill family commissioned a new range in his name. Launched this autumn, the Sir Winston Churchill Pinstripe comes in three fusionbonded colours: black, white and pearl blue. The cap top has a silver plaque made from a wax casting taken from Churchill’s own signet ring featuring the Spencer Churchill family seal. Issued in a limited edition of 1,874 (the year of his birth), each pen also comes with a special booklet with a chronology of Churchill’s life.

From £360; onoto.com

Suitable location Yul Brynner was always acknowledged as a charismatic actor, but until now his talent as photographer has been largely unknown.

Next month, The Little Black Gallery is exhibiting his photos – the subjects of which are some of the most famous stage and screen legends. He was adept at catching stars at ease, both on and off set: Elizabeth Taylor relaxing poolside; Robert Mitchum on location for Villa Rides in 1968 (above); Dean Martin in Frank Sinatra’s house. Yul Brynner: A Photographic Journey is at The Little Black Gallery, 13A Park Walk, SW10, from 11 January to 11 February.

All prints for sale. thelittleblackgallery.com

Shirt shaper When Paul Smith recommends something, we should take note: from the beginning of his illustrious career he has worked with Italian fabric supplier Tessitura Monti, which produces the most luxurious fibre available for shirt-making. As the company celebrates its centennial year, Sir Paul has created a limited edition shirt made of Giza 45 Egyptian cotton that, he says, ‘is literally the best fabric you can buy! It feels like silk, is so full of life and is really beautiful to wear.’ Available exclusively at Paul Smith, Floral Street, WC2, and the flagship Paul Smith shop on Greene Street, New York, priced at £350. The fabric is also available for bespoke customers at his Westbourne House, Notting Hill, outpost. paulsmith.co.uk

30 beAumonde | frAgrAnce

In scents Navigating new fragrances can be frustrating.

We’ve edited a selection of the best for men

Fragrance, like fashion, is susceptible to seasonal change. Hence, no matter how durable the allure of your signature scent – whether it’s Dior Eau Sauvage or Creed Original Vetiver – the call of the ‘new’ is hard to resist. Yet with hundreds of men’s eaux de toilette launching every year, locating the bottle that is the right balance of innovation and appeal can, at best, be a chore and, at worst, prove an experience bordering on traumatic.

There are a few simple rules that can help alleviate the tedium of navigating the myriad offerings out there – and without suffering long-term nasal impairment – the simplest and most reliable of which is to find an independent retailer you can approach for sound advice.

This means eschewing the hard-sell-hell of department store beauty halls and duty-free shops for the likes of Les Senteurs (lessenteurs.com) or the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie at Harrods (rojadove.com) – peaceful environments where you don’t feel under pressure to invest in the latest ‘big thing’ in perfumery. Yet, should time not be in ready supply, we have taken the liberty of picking out four new bottles that hit all the right notes.

Taken at face value, you might think Blood Concept is more style than substance. Founded by two Italian creatives, and inspired by that

iron-rich substance that flows through us in abundance, there are four fragrances to choose from – each named after a blood group. Type O (from £98, liberty.co.uk) is, however, a clever amalgam of thyme, raspberry, rosehip and cedarwood, bound together with a synthetic metallic note to afford it that telltale ferric signature. The result is an original and addictive tonic, with a sweet, peppery introduction that mellows into warm leather and wood.

Niche British perfumer Miller Harris has long proved an excellent source of scents that put a contemporary twist on classic fragrance families – if you’re new to the brand, try founder and resident nose Lyn Harris’s ode to cologne, Le Petit Grain. Her latest creation, La Fumée (from £60, millerharris.com), may sound like a posh Gallic cigarette brand but is more a paean to the dry, smoky incense typical of churches and eastern temples. It starts out fresh and aromatic

If you’re new to the brand, try Miller Harris resident nose Lyn Harris’s ode to cologne, Le Petit Grain, or new creation La Fumée

with citrus notes, cardamom, cumin and coriander seed, before developing into a smouldering woody aroma redolent of a blazing hearth.

The aforementioned Roja Dove – a walking cyclopaedia on perfume – has branched out from cherry-picking fine fragrances from around the world to creating his own. Roja Parfums Scandal Pour Homme (£175, harrods.com) is his first masculine scent, and comprises an invigorating burst of basil, violet and lavender with sandalwood, ambergris and musk. It’s a fresh and dynamic take on an aromatic fougère (literally ‘fern-like’), and one that – thanks to the complexity, provenance and strength of its ingredients – continues to develop long after you have anointed yourself with it.

If you are averse to change, you could always bend the rules. Acqua di Parma’s Colonia has been the default aroma of Mediterraneaninspired fragrance since 1916, but this winter the brand has unveiled a limited-edition version, Colonia Scacchetti Eau de Cologne (£104, harrods.com). On the outside, it’s a brand new bottle design by Italian architect Luca Scacchetti. On the inside, however, you are rewarded with the familiar, trusty formula of bergamot, citruses, neroli, patchouli and musk.

Some things simply cannot be improved upon.

Words Henry Farrar-Hockley

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Little giants From a wearable cinema to a pocket Porsche, these compact devices pack performance 1. Nikon Coolpix AW100 camera What is it about the nature of gadgets that conveys a sense of adventure and makes them so covetable? Take Nikon’s Coolpix AW100. The acme of photographic specification it is not, although its 16MP CMOS sensor and 5x optical zoom deliver sharp and reliable imagery. What appeals is that this rugged little number has built-in GPS to record the location of every photo as it is taken; can survive impacts from a height of 1.5m; is waterproof down to 10m and will happily function in sub-zero conditions (-10°C, to be precise). So if you seek a camera you can take on your next ski trip or beach holiday, or simply want a sharpshooter that’s reassuringly childproof, accept no substitute.

The AW100 is available in matt black and camouflage colour schemes, though we prefer the Hermès-like burnt orange finish. £330; nikon.co.uk 2. Porsche Design P’9981 BlackBerry phone Despite RIM’s recent woes, the fact remains that BlackBerry’s email service is a key platform both in the Square Mile and beyond.

And while the brand’s handsets are improving in design terms, they still lack a certain élan when compared with the likes of Samsung, Apple and HTC. So it is good to see the collaboration with Porsche Design that has resulted in the P’9981 smartphone. Inside you’ll find a 1.2GHz processor, 8GB of expandable memory, 720p HD video recording and dual-band Wi-Fi, plus a bespoke augmented reality app (Wikitude World Browser) and NFC capability for contactless payments. Outside, the chassis comprises handfinished leather and forged steel with a pin-sharp 2.8in touchscreen. This is a coalition everyone can enthuse about. £1,325; porsche-design.com

3. Loewe Air Speaker Traditionally a maker of exceptional televisions, Loewe has also long appreciated the importance of speakers – one of the factors key to the success of its TV sets. Now the German brand is producing standalone audio systems, including this, the Air Speaker.

Essentially a boom box, the cube has two subwoofers, two mid-range speakers and two tweeters that conspire to conjure 80 watts of precise and powerful audio. As the name implies, it utilises Apple’s wireless AirPlay technology, so you can enjoy your iTunes library via just about any compatible device, all without cables. (Purists should note the discreet USB socket and headphone jack that let you enjoy music the conventional way too.) Design also being close to Loewe’s heart, the speaker’s coloured top panel can be customised to match your décor. £699; loewe-uk.com

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4. Sony HMZ-T1 Personal 3D Viewer Although loosely resembling those clunky virtual reality headsets that flourished briefly in the Eighties, this one-man cinema is more rooted in the technology of the future than of the past. Don the visor and you are treated to two OLED high-definition 3D screens that are the equivalent of having a multiplex auditorium all to yourself.

Integrated headphones, meanwhile, provide 5.1 virtual surround sound to put you right in the middle of the action, while a number of built-in control options mean you don’t have to keep taking it off to adjust the volume. For headgear that weighs a not-insubstantial 420g, it is also surprisingly comfortable to wear – though if you’re settling in to watch the director’s cut of Avatar, you may want to schedule a few intervals to give your neck muscles a well-earned break. £799; sony.co.uk

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le hameau du ciel four valleys, switzerland 5 luxury ski-in, ski-out chalets CHF 1.79 million For more information call +44 (0) 207 016 3740 alpinehomesintl.com switzerland@alpinehomesintl.com

TRAVEL | bEAumondE 35

HoRn oF PLEnTY A view of the Matterhorn from the dining terrace of Zermatt’s Chalet Les Anges

Ski breeze This season, convenient new routes, luxury lodgings and smart services make skiing in style easier than ever

Accessible airports New flights from London City to small airports in the heart of the Alps cut transfer times at both ends, opening up resorts that previously were not ideal for weekend breaks. For example Chambéry – which, since last season has been served once a day, Friday to Monday, by BA CityFlyer (britishairways.com) – knocks an hour off the transfer to Courchevel compared to Geneva, getting you to the resort in around 90 minutes, which equates with Geneva to Chamonix. Take the 7am flight on Friday, and the Monday mid-afternoon return and you can cram in three and a half days on the slopes.

This season, there is a new City-Bern flight, which puts Wengen and Mürren a mere hour from touchdown. SkyWork (flyskywork.com) runs two flights on most days, one of which leaves City at 6.30pm on Friday, and a return that touches down at 7.50am on Monday, allowing two full days on snow for zero time off work. Bern also accesses the lovely, underrated resort of Adelboden – a traditional Swiss village with nearly 200km of ski slopes and ‘winter wonderland’ activities such as ice-skating, curling, tobogganing and even fondue evenings

in an igloo. One of its venerable hotels, the Cambrian (thecambrianadelboden.com), underwent a major refurb in 2007 to earn its contemporary design chops. It is one of only two Swiss hotels in Mr & Mrs Smith, and the perfect location for a romantic weekend.

Preselected property The phrase ‘luxury chalet’ can at times seem to be applied to any Alpine structure with enough hot water for all guests to have a post-skiing shower. The Oxford Ski Company, however, has vast experience in reliably securing truly beautiful mountain properties for its clients. Last season this was distilled into the Luxury Chalet Collection – a selection of the 20 best properties in the mountains (19 in the Alps, one in Aspen). These are chalets which are not only designed to the highest spec but are managed with minute attention to guests’ rhythms and requirements.

Take Les Anges in Zermatt. The sevenbedroom chalet has a huge, open lounge and dining area with a baby grand piano (and a separate entertainment room with satellite TV, DVD etc for those who cannot miss a 6 Nations

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Ski-in-ski-out luxury Ski-to-the-door convenience too often involves a concrete apartment block in France. But for the first time, upscale St Moritz is to have a luxury hotel right by the lifts. Overlooking Lake Silvaplana, the Nira Alpina is opening in Surlej, and could hardly be closer to the cable car for Piz Corvatsch: a skyway leads from the boot room to the lift station. The hotel has a chic spa (using Alpiene and Spiezia Organics) and two restaurants, one a traditional Alpine stübli, the other serving world cuisine, including Indian flavours to reflect the roots of hotelier MPS Puri.

There is also an in-house bakery and two après-ski bars that should make the hotel a destination for non-residents too, and the laid-back vibe seems a million miles from the landmark Badrutt’s Palace in the centre of St Moritz, rather than an easy 6km ride away in the Nira Alpina’s shuttle bus.

Three-night half-board packages for two, including ski pass and ski rental, from £1,350; niraalpina.com Family facilitated Powder Byrne has done the maths and realised that the toddlers the luxury family specialist first took skiing 10 years ago are hot-shot ski teens now. In addition to its complementary all-terrain FreeZone programme for over-14s, this season, at half-term, it will run FreeStyle, a £545, five-day clinic in which over-12s can learn fun park tricks in a controlled environment. It is based in Laax, Switzerland, famous for its freestyle parks and off-piste freeride terrain, where you can stay in the very cool Rocksresort apartments and pack the young folk off to get big air, while you ski with grown-ups and enjoy long lunches at the resort’s excellent mountain restaurants. powderbyrne.com

UNCOMMON COLD From top: the contemporary bar of the redesigned Grand Park Hotel, Gstaad; skiers sample Adelboden’s wealth of off-piste terrain

match), fireplace and a dining terrace for spring.

The food and drink is immaculate: Perrier-Jouët champagne or Hendrick’s G&Ts; home-mixed muesli; and gourmet meals. Baskets of tissues, candied fruit and sunblock wait by the boot room; staff clean your bathroom after your pre-dinner shower, so it’s pristine when you get back to your room later; and a detox breakfast awaits the morning after a big night in the Broken Bar beneath the Hotel Post. Combine this with the Oxford Ski Company’s concierge service, which organises flights (including by private jet), private transfers (car or helicopter), ski rental at your chalet, ski guiding etc, and it is likely the only break in the smooth running of your holiday will be on a mogul field. luxurychaletcollection.com

Handy heliskiing It is one of the most adrenaline-pumping types of skiing, but either you go to Canada to do it, or it tends to be a faff to organise in Europe, not least in France where you must work loopholes to get around laws about dropping and picking up. The Pook is a convenient ‘you sort it out’ agency that puts together heli packages for guests in Val d’Isère and other resorts in the Tarentaise valley; Chamonix/Courmayeur; and several Austrian resorts. These can often be arranged at short notice if conditions are suddenly favourable and the service (starting from €200pp) includes pick-up, avalanche safety equipment and optional extras such as fat skis or further guiding after your drops. thepook.co.uk

Complete concierge Many fine tour operators talk about tailor-made holidays, but usually the service is actually made-to-measure rather than utterly bespoke.

Exosphere is different. There’s no brochure; a consultant discusses a brief with a client, then finds the ideal travel arrangements, locations and experiences to match. A seasoned skier who spent much of his childhood in the Alps, CEO John Saunders knows places such as Gstaad inside out, and, last December, hosted an exclusive preview trip to the reinvented Grand Park Hotel. Under the directorship of Dona Bertarelli, of the Serono biotech family, the old favourite of Princess Grace has been transformed into a contemporary pleasure palace. Gone is the chintz; in are unvarnished wooden walls, black leather desktops and Bang & Olufsen entertainment systems. The top floor is reserved for a private (apart from the butler) three-bedroomed duplex called My Gstaad Chalet.

Exosphere can organise a stay plus any activities or outings you would like, and has particular expertise in organising events or parties. exosphere.com Words Chris Madigan

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After the city | beAumonde 39

Home grown

the un-venturer ‘This is not a marketing company,’ says co-founder and CEO Greg Marsh.

‘It’s a logistics company.’

Greg Marsh is encouraging visitors to live like locals in private properties, not hotels Success can have unfortunate side effects.

The office of onefinestay, an open-plan room in a business centre in East London, has a smart AV screen on the wall announcing targets and achievements, but also laundry trollies blocking the passageways. The company’s concept of the ‘unhotel’ – renting desirable London homes to visitors when their owners are away – appears to have taken off rather faster than its creators might have hoped, and at the sharp end it’s hot and crowded, and teeth are being gritted.

There is no meeting room, so co-founder and CEO Greg Marsh holds court in the coffee shop up the road. With his open-necked Viyella shirt and matinee-idol accent, he seems thoroughly unflappable, not to mention formidably bright (MA from Cambridge, MBA with high distinction from Harvard Business School) and breezily capable. Now 33, he is on a third or fourth career, moving between entrepreneurship and venture capitalism, latterly in the IT investment team at Index Ventures where he helped decide which tech start-ups were worth funding: ‘I sort of bounced from one side of the table to the other, reading other people’s business plans and getting itchy feet.’

He set up onefinestay in 2009 with two partners, financier Demetrios Zoppos and technologist Tim Davey, later to be joined by fellow private-equity refugee Evan Frank. The big idea of the unhotel was based on ‘a series of mini-epiphanies’ that included a miserable trip to Pisa saved by a native’s restaurant recommendation, and a book called Don’t Think of an Elephant! by George Lakoff. ‘It’s not a hotel but we want you to think about what a hotel is and isn’t, and what you do and don’t like about a hotel,’ explains Marsh. ‘Another inspiration was the 7 Up marketing campaign, “The un-cola”. It’s fostering curiosity about what it would be like to live in London rather than being forced to experience a second-rate version of it.’

The other side of the deal is the number of London properties that lie empty for significant parts of the year, and whose owners might just want to make some return on their investment.

The company launched in May 2010 with just five properties (including Marsh’s and Zoppos’s) but word of mouth, the promise that your home will be ‘as you left it and a bit cleaner’ and a little help from the recession has pushed the number

up close to the 250 mark, and they are about to announce a launch in another capital city.

For all their combined experience, none of the partners had any hotel-related experience, though Marsh sees this as an advantage. ‘You have to think things through from first principles,’ he says. ‘Needs have really evolved in the past few decades and I’m not convinced the hospitality industry has recognised how radical the shift has been.’ Daily maid service is a case in point: onefinestay will provide if guests ask for it, but otherwise it’s weekly.

It is, though, largely about cleaning rather than concepts. ‘This is not a marketing company, it’s a logistics company. It’s a very unglamorous industry from the inside.’ But then

this is a start-up and, as Marsh knew only too well, that’s always pretty grim. ‘Almost nobody I know who’s been successful with their own business hasn’t worked like a bastard for years,’ he says cheerfully. ‘You don’t sleep very well.’

It makes you wonder just why anyone would move from what they admit is ‘well-paid, very interesting work’ to a world of risk, excessive hours and dirty towels. It’s clearly a question he’s entertained. ‘Many investors would like to be on the other side,’ he says. ‘They see the grit and the glory, but it’s a bit like going to war – it’s only glamorous when you come back. Really, you do it because you can’t imagine not doing it.’ onefinestay.com Words James Medd Photography Philip Sinden

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investment banking talent | bRUmmell

As another challenging year ends, we introduce six stellar performers in investment banking Words Yasmine Chinwala Photography Desmond Muckian Research Matt Turner

It doesn’t take a genius to work out that investment banking has had yet another annus horribilis, and next year could be even worse.

The endless saga of the Eurozone crisis, the unhalting march of regulators and the spectre of Europe-wide deleveraging hold all parts of the business in a vice-like grip.

But where there is panic and dislocation, there is opportunity, as shown by the FN 40 Under 40 Rising Stars in Investment Banking, Financial News’ editorial pick of the industry’s bright young things. We profile six of them here.

With a slowdown in the Western world, banks are turning to emerging markets, where young executives with local market knowledge are in high demand. Financial institutions are trying to find ways to bolster their balance sheets, so FIG bankers are busier than ever.

Specialist boutiques are blossoming as they are able to hire top talent and compete in niche areas where their bigger rivals are being forced to cut back. And when management make deeper cuts and restructure at the highest level, young blood is flowing in.

41

inveStment banking talent | bRUmmell 43

Sarah mackey, 37

ed Stevenson, 33

andy Young, 35

european head of financial sponsors coverage, global banking and markets, RbS

Head of financial institutions group, debt capital markets, bnP Paribas

Head of financial institutions syndicate, europe, Credit Suisse

Mackey is one of a handful of women to make it onto the 40 Under 40 Rising Stars in Investment Banking.

Having worked with private equity clients for 14 years, she was promoted to her current role – in charge of strategy and coverage of European financial sponsors across six countries.

She is the only woman in her team of 10, but her boss and mentor is one of RBS’s most senior female executives, Alison Rose, who she first met as a graduate trainee at NatWest.

The daughter of immigrants – her mother is Chinese and her father is Irish – Mackey read law before succumbing to the clarion call of banking. She says the proudest moment of her career was the €10bn buyout of Danish telecoms firm TDC in 2005, which was transformational for RBS in terms of deal size.

Mackey practises yoga to unwind and enjoys going to the ballet.

Growing up with ambitions to play cricket for England, Stevenson briefly played for the Kent 2nd XI and coached children in his summer holidays before joining BNP Paribas’s graduate training programme.

‘Life is competitive whether you are in banking or playing cricket and you always need to have a game plan to stay ahead of the competition,’ he says.

He took over his current role two years ago and has since been busy raising financing for European banks and insurance companies that have to shore up their capital bases to meet stricter regulation on capital adequacy. After the latest round of stress tests, he and his team have been busy coming up with recapitalisation plans for the worst affected banks.

He owns a few ex-British Rail diesel trains that are run on private railway lines and haul freight, a business he hopes to develop when he retires.

As well as being kept up at night by his youngest son, the regulatory debate over the validity of contingent capital is very much front and centre of Young’s mind. He has been instrumental in building Credit Suisse’s top tier position in hybrid capital underwriting for financial institutions issuers, leading deals for Rabobank, UniCredit and Credit Suisse.

It’s a tough balancing act to manage the different priorities of banks, regulators, shareholders and rating agencies wrangling over whether CoCos should count as core capital under new capital adequacy rules, but Young says: ‘There is progress, which is encouraging.’

In his downtime, Young loves to surf – he names Kelly Slater among his heroes – and is proud to have got his four-year-old son standing on a surfboard for the first time this summer. He is currently reading a biography of Buddha by Karen Armstrong.

From far left: Sarah Mackey wears black jersey dress with patent trims, £495; Ed Stevenson wears dark blue stripe tie, £95; and Andy Young wears white classic shirt, £150, and brown/black textured stripe tie, £95, all burberry london

44 BRUMMELL | invEstMEnt Banking taLEnt

suneel Hargunani, 33 Head of equity syndicate desk, Europe, Middle East and africa, Citigroup Growing up, Hargunani assumed he would follow in his father’s footsteps and become an entrepreneur, but studying at the London School of Economics soon nudged him into banking and he joined Citigroup in 2000. He spent four years working on the origination side before moving to the equity syndicate desk, of which he took charge at the tender age of 30. He became a managing director this year.

He has worked on the three biggest equity deals in Emea this year – the $11bn initial public offering of Glencore in May and two share sales by Commerzbank that raised €11bn. Hargunani says he has had to ‘think outside the box from a distribution perspective’ in order to price and allocate deals in such volatile market conditions.

In his spare time, Hargunani is a keen golfer, and plays with a handicap of 12. He says his wife has resigned herself to being a golf widow when he retires.

Ed allchin, 36

Left, from top: Suneel Hargunani wears pale grey silk tie, £95; Ed Allchin wears black suit jacket, £995, both Burberry London Right: James Hartop wears black classic trench coat, £695, and maroon tie, £95, both Burberry London

James Hartop, 36

Managing partner, banks specialist sales, autonomous Research

Co-head of investment banking, Europe, Middle East and africa, UBs

Alongside Autonomous co-founders Stuart Graham and Manus Costello, Allchin was a top-ranked banks analyst at Merrill Lynch. As the financial crisis hit, their frustration grew as they fished around for the next challenge. Merrill’s takeover

by Bank of America was the final straw, and the trio decided to launch their own independent research house specialising in financials.

With a partnership structure paying cash, they were able to hire top talent and the firm made £11.3m in operating profits in its first year of business. Having started with 18 staff, Autonomous now has 34, with plans to open in Hong Kong next year and the US in 2014.

This year Allchin (who is name-checked in Michael Lewis’s Boomerang) ran the Berlin marathon and fought in a boxing match to raise money for One Degree, a charity that provides mentoring and tutoring to students in London and is solely funded by Autonomous.

In March, UBS restructured its investment banking management team – the ninth reshuffle at the executive committee level in less than two years – and Hartop was handed the herculean task of running its European business alongside Nick Reid.

Hartop joined UBS in 1995 and was mentored by the likes of Robin Budenberg, who now runs UKFI. He rose steadily to lead the bank’s global industrial group and worked on the sale of a $5bn stake in De Beers to Anglo American last month. He is now shifting his focus from spending most of his time on client work to dealing with the management challenge of how investment banking fits into the broader strategy of UBS. As a child, Hartop wanted to be an archaeologist but, after running up student debts studying theology, he got a job at SG Warburg. A keen marathoner, Hartop runs to and from work every day.

46 BRUMMELL | invEStMEnt BAnkinG tALEnt

Stylist Cat Stirling Photographer’s assistant Andy Redpath Styling assistant: Madeleine O’Flaherty Grooming Georgie Hamed.

Clothes provided by Burberry London; burberry.com

How wE CHoSE The 40 were selected from a longlist of more than 150 potential rising stars, assessed by an editorial panel based on their career trajectory so far and potential to reach a position of influence. To read profiles of all the FN 40 Under 40, visit efinancialnews.com

Giles Hutson, 39

Mehmet Emin Mazi, 37

Head of Emea corporate, SSA and emerging markets DCM, Bank of America Merrill Lynch

Head of emerging markets group, Europe, Middle East and Africa, HSBC

Hutson began his career at Barclays Capital, working in M&A and on the syndicate desk before moving to Goldman Sachs and then Morgan Stanley in 1999. He joined Bank of America Merrill Lynch in July last year as part of the bank’s reorganisation of its debt team, and has embraced the challenge of trying to edge the bank back into the top 10 DCM bookrunners in Emea.

He believes that the greatest achievement of his career so far was being made a managing director five years ago, but the deal he is proudest of is a French government inflation-linked issue that went ahead despite Hutson being arrested on his way to the French ministry of finance because his taxi driver drove on the hard shoulder.

Hutson says he always has several books on the go at any one time to suit his mood, but turns to reading JRR Tolkien and Jane Austen when he is in need of a ‘literary comfort blanket’.

Turkish native Mazi joined HSBC in Istanbul in 1995 and bade farewell to the stunning views of the Bosphorus from his balcony to move to HSBC in London 10 years ago. For the past five years, he has led the bank’s emerging markets effort within its global markets business, mentored by Samir Assaf, HSBC's chief executive of global banking and markets.

Under Mazi, HSBC has quadrupled revenue and market share in the CEEMEA region, and he has maintained stable revenues over the past year despite difficult economic conditions. ‘These are extraordinary times,’ he says. ‘It’s not business as usual, you have to be diligent and creative.’

This year Mazi’s group has extended its coverage into south-east Europe and subSaharan Africa, and much is expected of him as the bank continues to push aggressively into emerging markets.

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LA DOLCE VISTA This page: The magnificent 12th-century Castello di Vicarello sits amid the rolling panorama of Tuscany’s lushly wooded Maremma mountains Opposite: With the hunt’s dogs in hot pursuit, a boar charges through the forest of the Castello’s private hunting reserve

BOAR HUNTING | BRUMMELL 49

Crashing boars Of all Castello di Vicarello’s esoteric charms, a traditional Tuscan boar hunt is the rarest thrill Words Charlotte Metcalf Photography Simone Torrini

It’s 4am and the stars are dwindling over the Maremma mountains. Carlo Baccheschi Berti bids me good morning in Castello di Vicarello’s vaulted, flag-stoned kitchen. He curses – it is too early for staff to be up making coffee. After much clattering he finds an espresso pot and, as flames hiss on the stove, surveys my makeshift shooting outfit – my trousers are the right colour (moss green) but are more pedalpushers than breeches and I am in trainers in lieu of boots. He sniffs: ‘I did warn you not to wear perfume, didn’t I?’ I stammer about scented soap, but he knows I’m floundering, and laughs: ‘The boar will smell you a mile off.’

It is late August and the Tuscan caccia – or hunt – doesn’t officially begin until November, but, today, at the request of some keen local huntsmen, there is a wild boar shoot.

I am staying with Carlo and his wife, Aurora, in the 12th-century fortress that they

stumbled across in the Seventies, bought as a ruin in the Eighties, then spent over a decade restoring. Now, this mighty, ancient block of apricot-hued stone is one of Tuscany’s most beautiful historic houses, surrounded by pencil-thin cypresses and lording it over a stupendous vista of thickly forested hills and steep terraces of vineyards and olive groves.

Carlo and Aurora opened the Castello as an exclusive hotel with seven suites, spa and two pools just over 10 years ago, furnishing the rooms with eclectic treasures collected on their travels. They welcome you as if into their own home, which indeed the Castello is – although it is increasingly renowned as one of Europe’s most outstanding establishments, there is no sense that you are in a hotel. Less well known is that a stay here also affords the opportunity to hunt wild boar in the Baccheschi Bertis’ rolling 1,300-acre private hunting reserve.

Carlo and I set off in his Land Rover before 5am. We drive through dense oak forest and, half an hour later, emerge to see twin hills looming up ahead in the dark, the lights of the villages of Buriano and Vetulonia twinkling round their brows like tiaras. We drive through sunflower fields, then stop to open a gate into a meadow full of wild flowers and long-horned creamy cattle. We have arrived.

Several men have already gathered by a wooden lodge roofed with pine branches. A spaniel hurls itself ecstatically at Carlo. I am greeted warmly by Alessandro, who wears a pork-pie hat and an apron decorated with ducks. He hands out espressos and pastries striped with chocolate. We sip the scalding, viscous coffee gratefully as the dark sky dissolves into inky wisps. The men are in good cheer – it’s going to be a glorious morning, apparently. They line up to hand in their gun

50 BRUMMELL | BOAR HUNTING

SEEK AND ENJOY Left: A hunter takes his place on a palchetto.

This picture: Minutes after the quarry is shot, a cook begins to prepare it for a celebratory feast

licences. Maurizio, who is in charge, ensures that we are all provided with luminous orange waistcoats. Someone plonks an orange baseball hat on my head and chuckles.

The air smells deliciously of trampled grass, coffee, smoke and dogs. Bullets are distributed and the men gather round for Maurizio’s briefing. He blows his horn and the hounds, now slobbering with excitement, are taken by the beaters to the outskirts of the wood, through which they will drive the boars, flushing them out into the meadow.

I follow a silent huntsman into the forest.

He doesn’t look back. I’m grateful as the incline is steep and I’m panting. Along the path, about 20 metres apart, are palchetti – high wooden seats where the huntsmen will sit once the dogs drive the boars out. For now, we stand silently at the crest of the hill, listening and watching. Apart from the baying of the dogs in the distance, it is quiet. Then a radio crackle ruptures the silence and we hear two blasts of the horn as the beaters let the dogs loose. There are gunshots. My companion explains that the huntsmen can tell from the sound the dogs make on the leaves whether a boar is approaching or fleeing.

We slither back down the hill to the palchetti. The stillness is almost oppressive as we wait. The beaters’ yells, till now echoing distantly, become high-pitched and frenzied, the bloodlust almost tangible. I sense them closing in. Maurizio’s horn blows again.

Suddenly, six dogs belt up the hill, yelping

A big boar, dogs on its heels, erupts out of the woods three metres in front of me. Someone fires, but the boar is out of sight hysterically. I hear squeals and snorts, astonishingly loud and close, then a big boar, dogs on its heels, erupts out of the wood three metres in front of me. Someone fires, but the boar is out of sight and I see another escaping sideways across the path. There are more shots, more shouts, and then Maurizio’s horn to signal it is all over. Four wild boar have been shot, one out in the meadow where it lies among wild flowers, already glassy-eyed and stiff, flies buzzing round the blood.

We return to the lodge where Moreno, the cook, is stoking a fire outside. We sit on rough wooden benches as he toasts ciabatta. It’s only just 11am, but bottles of red wine are uncorked.

Everyone is smiling. The boars are laid out on the grass and the huntsmen cluster behind them for a photo. The faces of those who shot the boar are daubed with blood and everyone fires into the air and choruses, ‘In the name of all the hunters of Maremma, I now officially anoint you a hunter of boar.’ I have seen stag hunters blooded in Scotland, but the wildness of the ancient forest and the formality of the anointing make this ritual feel truly medieval.

The boars are dragged off to be expertly butchered behind the lodge, while Moreno prepares lunch. We sit at long trestle tables decorated with antlers and stuffed ducks, a big boar’s head with formidable tusks glaring fiercely from the back wall. Moreno and Alessandro bring platters of silky charcuterie, tiny smoked cheeses, pepper pickles, fire-toasted tomato bruschetta, sausage and beef tripe with tomatoes, which all agree are exquisite for the time of year. Then come bowls of spicy penne arrabiata, followed by shoulder of boar (twice-roasted to ensure it is tender and juicy) and boar stew with olives and bay leaves. Alessandro ensures that every plate is full and offers up a toast to Moreno.

If you have a gun licence, I can think of no better way of spending the weekend than gathering a dozen friends and heading for Castello di Vicarello, with a day out on a boar hunt. There is even an Indian masseuse on site, who specialises in Ayurvedic therapies, should your shoulder ache after shooting.

So determined am I to return, I have already booked my first shooting lesson.

Hunting season runs from 1 November to 15 March. Groups of between eight and 25 can book ‘cacciarelle’ (driven hunts with dogs) and, occasionally a ‘caccia al cerca’ (stalking on foot).

Price on request, as each hunt varies. As a special offer to Brummell readers, Original Travel is offering five nights at Castello di Vicarello, b&b inc flights and car hire, from £990pp.

020 7978 7333; originaltravel.co.uk

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TOY RACERS Forget school runs, supermarket shopping trips and the gallant ferrying of in-laws. These ultimate speed machines are strictly for thrill rides Words Simon de Burton

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With relentless reporting of economic gloom promising to make the Great British winter seem even longer than usual, it might be hard to imagine blasting along a sun-dappled country lane in a car built purely for the sheer fun of driving. But spring will be upon us before you know it, so now could be the time to throw caution to the wind and indulge yourself in a vehicle that is shamelessly useless for the school run, transporting the weekly shop, lugging rubbish to the tip or even travelling from A to B in a light shower.

Whether you are putting them through their paces at the track or drawing green-eyed glances on the open road, true sports cars are sculpted, stripped-down poems to the need for speed. Here are five of the finest.

1. Lotus Exige

2. Morgan 3 Wheeler

Writing about impossibly fancy cars has given me the opportunity to drive some of the most exotic automobiles on the market – but the one I think I love the most is the truly fabulous Exige. I passed my test for a race licence at Silverstone in one of these and would recommend one to anyone looking for genuine thrill-a-mile motoring. The ultimate version is the ‘S’ which is powered by an 1800cc, supercharged Toyota engine that generates 218 horsepower – enough to give the 933kg car a top speed of 148mph. But it is the sublime handling and superb brakes that make the mid-engined Exige so desirable (not to mention the spine-tingling whine of the supercharger in your ear when driving the ‘S’). £35,550 (‘S’ version); lotuscars.com

Morgan Motor Company has gone back to its roots with this 21st-century version of the legendary three-wheeled ‘cyclecar’ with which HFS Morgan founded his firm in 1909. Around 30,000 were built at the Malvern Link works before production moved solely to fourwheelers in 1953 – but now, long-standing calls for a modern equivalent have been answered.

The new 3 Wheeler is powered by a 1982cc S&S V-twin engine whose 115 horsepower gives the 495kg two-seater a top speed of 125mph. Creature comforts are few (two tiny aero screens, no roof) but a choice of eight colour schemes and a range of graphics packs mean you can tailor your Morgan to taste.

Around £30,000, depending on spec; morgan3wheeler.co.uk

MOTORING | BRUMMELL 53

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3. Porsche Boxster Spyder

4. Ariel Atom

5. Caterham Seven

The name ‘Spyder’ refers to a car that is stripped down to the bare essentials to make it as light and agile as possible – a treatment that has made this Porsche a truly superb driver’s car. It sits a good inch nearer to the ground than the standard car and weighs 80kg less, thanks to the featherlight aluminium doors, carbon-backed seats, an aluminium rear deck and specially made wheels. The most ‘spidery’ feature of all, however, is the roof – a minimalist clip-on cap weighing just 6kg. The resulting low weight, paired with a 3.4-litre, 316-horsepower engine makes for a thrilling package, especially when the ‘sport plus’ button is engaged to allow the engine to rev harder for longer and enable the competition exhaust pipe to really howl.

From £47,843; porsche.com

Ariel, once the name of one of Britain’s great motorcycle manufacturers, is now known for building small numbers of performanceorientated cars with exquisite tubular, space-frame chassis, which provide superb power-to-weight ratio and pin-sharp handling.

Hugely popular among track-day aficionados, the Atom has no doors, roof or windscreen – but is positively brimming with high-spec components from front to back. In the rear, you will find a 2-litre engine from the Honda Civic Type R that will propel the bantamweight Atom from a standstill to 60mph in an eye-watering 2.7 seconds – making it faster than a Ferrari Enzo. A vast options list makes it possible to order an Atom to your exact specification.

Price on application; arielmotor.co.uk

The Caterham Seven evolved from the legendary Lotus Seven, which was designed

by Colin Chapman during the Sixties and made famous in TV’s The Prisoner. Caterham Cars, originally a Lotus dealer, bought the rights to the design in 1973 and has honed it into one of the most popular and effective no-compromise two-seat sports car ranges on the market.

Various models are available, starting with the £14,495 Classic, which is probably the closest car to Chapman’s design, albeit using a modern, 1.4-litre K-Series engine. The maddest Seven, however, is the £44,995 CSR 260, which features a 2.3-litre Cosworth engine, Formula One-style suspension – and a top speed limited to 155mph. Each car is built to order.

POA; caterham.co.uk

54 BRUMMELL | ExtREME spoRts cLUBs

High society Groucho Marx famously said he refused to join any club that would have him as a member, but how about those whose membership criteria is so strict only explorers and extreme-sports addicts need even apply?

Words Eloise Napier Illustrations Brett Ryder

When it comes to clubs, you may feel you have reached the pinnacle. Securing membership of White’s, Pratt’s and The Arts Club may have been a doddle; Robin Birley’s equally selective Rupert’s Club, due to open in January 2012, should pose no problems. But, however much influence you have, however fabulous your connections or humungous your bank accounts, there are some clubs that will push you to limits you had not thought of before you are even considered eligible for membership.

They put the sieve in exclusive, and normal people need not apply. These are societies founded on bravery, endurance, imagination and a touch of madness. They are places where you meet utterly extraordinary characters – the sort other people write books about.

Foremost among these is the GH Mumm Cordon Rouge Club. Its members, who include the likes of Chris Bonington, Ellen MacArthur and David Hempleman-Adams, meet for dinner once a year and hothouse ideas for new expeditions. Founded in 2008 to celebrate and encourage exceptional adventurers, as well as raise money for charity, the club harks back to the beginning of the last century, when Georges H Mumm, owner of the champagne house, gave financial support to his friends embarking on great expeditions.

One such was Jean-Baptiste Charcot, a peer of Captain Scott, who spent years exploring the Antarctic. The name of his ship, PourquoiPas, seems to encapsulate the philosophy of the Cordon Rouge Club.

As last year’s chairperson, round-the-world yachtswoman Dee Caffari, explains: ‘There are very few firsts left out there, but you can do

things faster, better and bigger.’ Caffari, a former teacher, changed career and started sailing 10 years ago. Since then, she has sailed non-stop around the world three times, come sixth in the Vendée Globe and been awarded an MBE. ‘I realised that life is about opportunities and you can go off and do amazing things if you put yourself out there,’ she says.

The 25 members of the Cordon Rouge Club elect two new members each year.

It’s a big achievement just to be chosen – ‘a statement of standing’, as Caffari puts it.

Fame has nothing to do with it: ‘It’s not about your media draw, but being acknowledged for doing something extraordinary.’ Indeed, many of us will never have heard of many of the members, such as polar explorer Rune Gjeldnes or extreme climber Leo Houlding.

Along with the annual dinner and associated charity challenge, held this year in aid of ShelterBox, members are presented with a sabrage sword and, in a suitably macho gesture, are taught to use it to cut the top off a bottle of champagne.

No less selective is the Shikar Club.

Founded in 1909, its members continue to meet annually for dinner at the Savoy. Originally, the focus was almost entirely on big-game

Some people will be on the waiting list for 10 years – there is no rhyme or reason to how or when you might expect to join.

hunting, the more dangerous the better.

The modern incarnation of the club is less bloodthirsty and more concerned with conservation. To join its ranks, according to the club secretary, ‘You have to have pursued big game outside the UK. This could, of course, just be wild boar in France!’

In fact, it appears that membership now has less to do with a lust for bloodsport than whether you are considered to be a convivial dining companion. As such, it means your chances of joining the 200 men-only members rely almost entirely on personal recommendation and a dedication to discretion – because this is a club that is determinedly off the radar.

Whereas membership of the Shikar Club won’t cost you much more than the price of a good dinner, the habitués of the Eagle Ski Club in Gstaad have to have very deep pockets indeed. It is said the joining fee alone is in the region of £25,000, with annual membership fees on top. ‘Everyone pays full fees – it doesn’t matter whether you are Valentino or Bernie Ecclestone,’ says an Eagle insider.

A native of Gstaad whose father and siblings are all members of the Eagle Club, our source won’t allow his name to be published for fear that his own proposed membership might be blackballed. ‘You have to know lots of members to be put up. Having a parent who is a member helps, but it doesn’t guarantee membership.’

The waiting list is prodigious, he adds. ‘Some people will wait 10 years – there is no rhyme or reason to how or when you might expect to join.’

The question is, why would anyone want to join such an exorbitantly expensive club

56 BRUMMELL | ExtREME spoRts cLUBs

when it consists primarily of a restaurant that is open for only four months of the year?

The answer, partly, is social cachet. This is a place where royalty, aristocracy, the hyperwealthy, the Hollywood glitterati and the highest echelons of the fashion world coincide to rub cashmere-clad shoulders.

But for those who don’t have all the requisite social connections, there is another, less publicised route that can – sometimes – speed up the membership process. You have to be a superb skier. The club runs ski races throughout the season, often competing against other elite clubs such as the Corviglia in St Moritz. As the insider says: ‘Inevitably, there are some people in fur coats at the Eagle Club who never put on a ski boot, but there are just as many who really are skiing gods.’

For the latter, it is the sheer exhilaration of racing that makes it all worthwhile.

Less exclusive, but far more dangerous, is the Shuttlecock Club, also based in St Moritz.

Membership, which ensures entry to an annual ball, is automatic as soon as you have crashed at the infamous Shuttlecock Corner on the Cresta Run. The corner is a safety valve on the 1,212m toboggan run where riders, lying face-down on what is basically just an upscale tea tray, frequently reach speeds up to 90mph.

Those who don’t have the skill to reach the bottom of the run will be thrown out by the camber at Shuttlecock Corner.

It’s an important safety device because the dangers of the run are very real. James Kelly, a former army officer, has completed the Cresta hundreds of times over the past 27 years. In 2000, he had a horrendous crash that resulted in 12 broken bones, two punctured lungs and three cardiac arrests.

‘I took a year off in 2001 because I was on crutches, but I’ve done it every year since then,’ he says cheerfully. Although the adrenaline rush created by the Cresta Run is addictive, the enterprise is far from reckless.

As Kelly is at pains to point out: ‘It’s run by a very professional team, with a series of safety nets in place and superb medical back-up.’

Having a top-notch support team is essential for anyone tempted to swim the English Channel and thus join the ranks of the Channel Swimming and Piloting Federation. ‘You get really seasick when you’re swimming a long distance like this – you’re turning your head to one side every 15 seconds for 15 hours, swallowing seawater and breathing in diesel fumes. In short, you don’t feel very well at all,’ says Kevin Murphy who has nevertheless completed the 22-mile crossing 34 times.

‘But the sense of exhilaration and achievement and the sheer relief when you reach the other end is unbelievable.’

And that is surely a sentiment that every member of the world’s most dangerous clubs would agree with. Vive la discomfort zone.

You get seasick swimming the Channel – you’re turning your head every 15 seconds for 15 hours, swallowing seawater and breathing in diesel fumes. In short, you don’t feel very well at all

57 - 58 South Audley Street london W1K 2ed +44 (0)20 7499 1801 www.purdey.com

58 BRUMMELL | WATCHES

Star turns Watch trends may come and go, but a traditional, hand-wound watch will always be of the moment Words Simon de Burton Photography Andy Barter Automatic wristwatches wind themselves up by means of an oscillating weight that swings to and fro as the wearer moves around, but many horological purists prefer the ritual of having to hand-wind a watch on a daily basis – an event that gives one a chance to commune with one’s timepiece and fully appreciate the wonder of all those wheels, teeth and gears working in perfect harmony. Here are five hand-wound models that are definitely worth the effort.

Clockwise from top left: Ralph Lauren Slim Classique This delectable dress watch is about as spare as a timepiece can get, yet the attention to detail and the finish are superb.

Inside the wafer-thin case, you’ll find an even thinner hand-wound Piaget movement that is just as exquisite as the watch itself. £10,400; ralphlaurenwatches.com Patek Philippe Calatrava Anyone who is truly serious about fine watches should have a Calatrava in their collection. Patek’s entry-level beauty was designed in 1932, during the Bauhaus era, and remains a fine example of form following function, with its white-gold case measuring a modest 37mm in diameter. £15,920; patek.com IWC Portofino IWC’s big news for 2011 was an upgrade of the long-standing and classically elegant Portofino range, the most desirable of which is the hand-wound version. This model contains an in-house movement featuring an eight-day power reserve, the state of which can be monitored by the indicator near the nine o’clock position. £7,250; iwc.com Omega Speedmaster Professional Lack of gravity prevents automatic watches from working properly in outer space, which is one reason why the hand-wound Omega Speedmaster has been used on every US space mission since 1962.

It remains the only watch to have been worn on the surface of the moon thanks to Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong’s historic moonwalk in 1969. £3,300; omegawatches.com Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Celebrating its 80th anniversary this year, the Reverso’s famous flip-over case has been adapted to house many different movements over the decades, but the hand-wound Grande Reverso in steel remains the purest expression of what has become a horological icon. £5,250; jaeger-lecoultre.com

60 BRUMMeLL | ACCessoRies

hides to seek Suede boots, £645 Givenchy at harrods.

Leather belt, £535, Bottega Veneta

All the trimmings When choosing a gift, you don’t want to end up with a turkey. These tactile accessories are sureďŹ re luxury hits for material girls and boys Photography Andy Barter styling Tamara Fulton

62 brUMMell | accessories

tablet dispenser This page, clockwise from top left: ‘Ascot’ calfskin iPad-holder, £150, asprey.

Woven leather iPad-holder, £390, bottega Veneta at Matches. Calfskin iPad-holder, £930, Hermès.

Stamped-leather iPadholder, £99.95, Harrods Head Master Opposite, from top: Tweed hat with feather, £115, paul smith. ‘Hannay’ hat, £150, Holland & Holland.

Hat with ribbon, £459, borsalino at Harrods.

Hat with ribbon, £150, Holland & Holland.

Fedora, £250, Gieves & Hawkes

accessories | BrUMMeLL 65

ties that Bind Opposite, from left to right: Cashmere tie, £70, ralph Lauren. Knit tie, £65, chester Barrie.

Cashmere tie, price on application, Brunello cucinelli. Knit tie, £125, Brioni. Knit tie,

£65, chester Barrie.

Knitted silk tie, £85, oliver sweeney contain yoUrseLf This page, clockwise from top left: Velvet intrecciato clutch, £1,125, Bottega Veneta. Python-skin bag

with clasp, £915, tod’s.

Python-skin clutch, £1,065, Marc Jacobs at harrods. Miniature beaded clutch, £449, emporio armani. oversized bag with raised circles, £1,150, Paul smith Limited edition

PhotograPher’s assistants Michael Williams, angela Dennis styling assistant Cat stirling With thanKs to Madeleine o’Flaherty and lucy Zondi stoCKists Details on Page 70

MADE IN BRITAIN Key to the UK’s financial fitness, our creative industries are a hothouse for compelling new talents. Meet four of today’s finest Words Simon Brooke Photography Philip Sinden

TASTE MAKERS This page: Menswear designer Alexia Hentsch at Hentsch Man's Baker Street studio. Opposite: Sommelier Xavier Rousset at 28-50, his new wine workshop and kitchen just off Fleet Street

RISIng CREATIvE TAlEnT | BRUMMEll 67

As politicians, business people and analysts debate how best to stimulate growth in our economy, revive the fortunes of British manufacturing and produce exports that the world will actually want to buy, the part played by our creative industries is becoming increasingly important.

There were an estimated 182,100 businesses working in the creative sector last year, according to government figures, and their exports totalled nearly £20bn.

Jeremy Hunt, Secretary of State for Culture, Olympics, Media and Sport recently told the Royal Television Society: ‘The digital and creative industries present an opportunity for this country that is greater than for any country in the world.’ Many working in these industries are already grasping that opportunity with both hands.

Alexia Hentsch, menswear designer It was the quest for that wardrobe essential, the well-cut white shirt, that drove Alexia Hentsch to set up Hentsch Man. Now three years old, the label she runs with her business partner and childhood friend Max von Hurter is characterised by the natural fabrics, relaxed, down-to-earth styling and subtle wit that appeals to so many men these days.

As if to underline that this is not about fashion with a capital F, the men sporting her clothes on the website are not professional models – they’re interesting guys whose style Alexia admires. ‘I always wanted to do my own thing and I’ve long been interested in creating a brand,’ says the 30-year-old Swiss-Brazilian, who settled in London 10 years ago. ‘The emphasis is very much on tailoring, but with a little fun thrown in.’ Classic corduroy trousers, for instance, are available in brilliant red, while an elegant double-breasted jacket is cropped around the hips.

Increasingly, women’s wear designers, such as Roland Mouret, have started to produce men’s ranges and vice versa. Hentsch knows precisely why she enjoys creating men’s clothing. ‘It takes me out of the equation,’ she says. ‘I can be more objective about designing clothes without getting drawn too much into what I’d like to wear myself.’

Next spring/summer will see a focus on classic crew necks, navy stripes and jerseys.

As well as retailing through concessions in stores, Hentsch Man has enjoyed success with a number of pop-up shops, but its online presence is its main outlet. Hentsch and von Hurter’s initial investment came from their own bank accounts plus family and friends. With plans for more stores and a wider range, they accept that they’ll have to take the corporate investment option for round two. But somehow you feel those buttoned-down finance types won’t affect the relaxed, quirky Hentsch Man style. hentschman.com

Xavier Rousset, sommelier Having graduated as the youngest master sommelier in the world at just 23 and worked at the Hotel du Vin and the Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, Xavier Rousset knows a thing or two about wine. The fact that he describes his latest venture, 28-50, just off Fleet Street, as a ‘wine workshop and kitchen’, tells you something about the 32-year-old’s approach.

Food is important, of course, but it’s there to complement what goes into the glass, rather than vice versa. Rousset believes that, although we are much better educated and informed about wine than we ever used to be, there is still a thirst (pardon the pun) for greater knowledge.

‘We want to take people on a journey with wine and show them something new,’ he explains.

At 28-50, the wine list is cannily edited to push customers’ boundaries and is presented alongside a menu created by Rousset’s business partner, Agnar Sverrisson, that offers classic French cuisine with a modern slant.

Foie gras, for instance, comes accompanied by peach chutney, while coq au vin is served with fresh tagliatelle.

A mini glass – just 75ml – is priced at around £3 and gives 28-50 customers the opportunity to explore new wines before they decide to invest in a bottle. Fine wines are now also available by the glass, thanks to a machine that prevents them from going off. A second branch of 28-50 – named after the range of latitudes of the world’s best vineyards – is due to open in the West End next year.

Rousset is a supporter of the campaign by French wine producers to win back popularity from the new-world labels. ‘European wines are definitely making a comeback. We’ll see fewer of those heavy, oaky new-world varieties now,’ he says. ‘The wines of the Rhone Valley and those of the Languedoc, in particular, are the ones to watch.’

28-50.co.uk

68 BRUMMELL | RISIng CREaTIvE TaLEnT

PRECIOUS METTLE Left: Silversmith Jemma Daniels at Blenheim Palace, Oxfordshire where she recently showed her designs at a jewellery and crafts fair. Opposite: commercial director Justin Stokes at Chase 55 prop house in Acton

Justin Stokes, film-maker

Jemma Daniels, silversmith As the search for individual, bespoke pieces rather than mass-produced items continues, and with thoughtful consumers in these recessionary times looking to spend their money on something with that extra-special element, British silversmithing is enjoying something of a golden age, so to speak.

Jemma Daniels, 27, who has won awards from Goldsmiths’ Crafts and Design Council, among others, and whose designs are available at Fortnum & Mason, is at the forefront of a new generation of craftspeople. ‘My work is influenced by ceramics – I want it to be functional and tactile,’ she says of her pieces, which are known for their elegant shapes and soft, fluid lines. They range from water jugs, bowls and vases to rings and necklaces.

‘There’s a vibrant community of silversmiths working in Britain today as more people become interested in silver pieces,’ she says. ‘The V&A Museum has a contemporary

collection and the National Museum Wales is now creating one of its own too.’

Many customers will commission Daniels not only for silverware but also jewellery such as wedding rings. ‘They are interested in having something that’s unique to them and want to take part in the creative process,’ she explains. ‘They often like to visit my workshop so they can see where their piece is being made. Men, especially, like to know what has gone into the making of a ring.’

As well as taking a hands-on approach to hammering, moulding and all the other creative processes involved in realising her designs, Daniels also understands the need to be an astute businesswoman. ‘I’m always going to see potential clients – you’ve got to market yourself in this business. And you have to be your own accountant and bookkeeper,’ she says. ‘It’s hard work, but very rewarding.’ jemmadaniels.com

Where does a commercial end and a film begin? The distinction has become more blurred of late as even the most mundane brand has attempted to create something that offers its target market less of a hard sell and more a subtle evocation of its products’ values in story, imagery and sound.

One of those who has been at the cutting edge of this transformation is film-maker Justin Stokes. The 27-year-old has recently directed films for companies as varied as Skoda and Swiss Airlines. ‘I started with photography but soon realised that still images were not what I wanted to do,’ he says.

As well as working as a researcher on TV programmes such as Watchdog, he became a camera operator and film editor, working on projects for Sony and Nokia among others.

‘Having experience of other aspects of the business has been very useful.’

Other clients include Grand Marnier and Range Rover, and Stokes’s sweeping, elegantly cinematic style lends a sense of drama and excitement to filmed ads for these well-known names. Range Rover’s has been playing on TV across the US, while the Skoda film was aired in the UK on Channel 5. ‘In the original Grand Marnier script, there were a lot of shots of the product, but they let me use fewer of these and do other things in the final edit,’ says Stokes.

His film debut, Method Actor, was part of the official selection in the 2011 Palm Springs International ShortFest film festival and has been screened at art-house cinemas around the world. Its success demonstrates how the explosion of online video has changed the game for film-makers. Instead of having to rent a cinema and drag an audience along to it, talented individuals can now produce professional-looking movies for a fraction of their traditional costs and, in days, these movies can reach a mass audience online.

Unlike many up-and-coming directors, Stokes feels no desperate rush to break into the world of big movies and big budgets. ‘I’m not quite ready to handle it,’ he says. ‘In the meantime, I’m very happy doing what I’m doing.’ crusty-thought.tv

70 BRUMMELL | BY GEORGE

LEFT HANDERS Communist-era designs inspired Glashütte Original’s softly squared Seventies Panorama Date and Senator Sixties Panorama Date

Zeit heist Four decades of communism robbed Glashütte of its good horological name. Now, though, the German watchmaking town’s time has come again

‘It’s running like a Swiss watch,’ said Terry, my mechanic, after relieving me of an eye-watering sum for fitting a new – possibly solid gold – exhaust pipe to my ancient Porsche 911.

‘Shouldn’t that be a German watch, with Porsche being based in Stuttgart?’ I countered.

‘Maybe, but German watches aren’t as good as Swiss ones, are they?’

It was an understandable error (after all, the Swiss do rather make out that they invented time) but the wider world should know that the Teutonic precision that makes Germany’s cars so bulletproof also applies to its watches.

The best come from the old Saxon town of Glashütte which once did very nicely out of extracting ore from the surrounding Erzgebirge mountains. Until it ran out in the early 1800s.

Economic doldrums ensued until Ferdinand Adolphe Lange, master watchmaker to the Saxon Court, founded the first watch factory in 1845 and attracted several masters of the

art who, by 1900, had transformed the place into a horological hub to rival the Swiss Jura.

But World War II left the region badly battered by relentless Allied bomb attacks and many of the watch factories were razed. Some bounced back, but no sooner did a degree of normality resume than the East German state expropriated the main businesses and created the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe conglomerate.

Created in 1951, the ‘GUB’, as it was sometimes known, ploughed on throughout the Cold War period, making workmanlike mechanical watches for the masses and, importantly, keeping vital horological skills alive.

After the collapse of the DDR, the company was bought by Swatch Group and re-named Glashütte Original, while Walter Lange – greatgrandson of Ferdinand – revived his old family firm A Lange & Söhne.

Glashütte Original is a true ‘manufactory’ in that it is equipped to make all its components in house. Its movements are often finished to a remarkable level and brim with the sort of features that watch geeks go gaga for – gold chatons, swan-neck adjustment, blued screws, bevelled edges. It has also mastered high-end complications such as the tourbillon, perpetual calendar and split-seconds chronograph, and even created the first mechanical watch – the Senator Diary – with an alarm that can be set up to 30 days in advance.

But the most on-trend Glashüttes of the moment are a couple of models inspired by vintage pieces from the brand’s archive collection which, perhaps ironically, were created in the depths of communist oppression.

The official blurb notes the ‘joie de vivre of the wild Sixties’ and how the Seventies ‘offered exciting new ways of seeing the world’.

I doubt if GUB’s watchmakers saw things quite that way, but their creations have certainly translated nicely into the 21st century in the delightful, round-cased Senator Sixties Panorama Date with its delectable domed dial and the similarly retro, softly squared Seventies Panorama Date.

As well as being suitably upsized for today, these Cold War throwbacks are now equipped with the sort of lavishly decorated movements that the state-employed watchmakers could only have dreamed of making.

I’d love to buy one for Terry, just to show him how good a German watch can be. But he took all my money for that exhaust pipe.

Glashütte Original Seventies Panorama Date, £7,400; Senator Sixties Panorama Date, £5,700. glashuette-original.com Words Kip Springer

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