Snowmass Alpacas Genetic Breeding Center
Royal Alpaca - Some Leading Alpaca Garment Producers and Sellers Comment on Royal Alpaca Grupo Inca, Alpaca III collection KUNA [Royal alpaca] is the most demanding selection of the best alpaca fiber from both [suri and huacaya] made by expert hands of craftsmen who master ancient secrets, which allow them to choose the finest, softest and warmest fiber, also covers the whole color range offered by this marvelous fiber. All of which makes it possible for the garments made with this input to flaunt an unmistakable elegance and personality. Mitos, (A Myth comes true) An alpaca sweater . . . pure luxury . . . connects the reality to the hopes and wishes of our dreams, with our comprehension of superior clothing and world finest garments. Royal and Baby Alpaca combine the softness of cashmere with the warmth of sheep wool. Natural, Pure . . . Softness. The finest and most precious fibres on earth. Imagine a natural garment as soft as cashmere and luminous in appearance. Ultra-lightweight which maintain their new appearance for a long time. A garment with unique thermal qualities that provide perfect protection in summer as well as in winter. We found these fibres in South America. Our collection ranges from Vicuña, world’s finest fibre to Alpaca. Peruvian Connection Peruvian Alpaca: rarer than cashmere, warmer than wool. From high in the Peruvian Andes comes one of the finest and most luxurious fibers in the world. Peruvian alpaca—once reserved for Inca royalty—is silky against the skin, velvety smooth to the touch. Alpaca’s unique hollow core gives it an insulating softness that is extremely lightweight yet much warmer and stronger than wool. In addition, alpaca is hypoallergenic—often wearable for those people who are allergic to wool. Cousin to the llama, alpacas graze at elevations of 10,000 to 14,000 feet on the harsh steppes of the Peruvian Andes. Their thick, sumptuous coats grow naturally in over 40 shades—from ivory to black, with all the grays and browns in between—and the fleece dyes to
glorious color as well. These noble creatures are tended by native Andean herdsmen, who shear them every other year at the on set of the rainy season. The yield is about eight pounds of fleece per animal. The first clip of the shearling alpaca, called baby alpaca, provides a featherweight, heavenly soft fiber that is even more prized. ALPACA BOUTIQUE Alpacas are often called “Gold of the Andes.” The reason is their extraordinary fiber, which features incredible fineness, warmth, lightweight, softness, and durability. Alpacas produce a luxury fiber that is internationally recognized today as one of the finest fibers in the world. There are many Alpaca products in today’s market. However, not all of them are made of the same quality fiber. At Alpaca Boutique, we guarantee the quality of our products. To help our customers, each of our products has an extensive description that includes the quality of the fiber used to manufacture the garment (for instance “100% Baby Alpaca” or “70% Suri Alpaca, 30% Wool”). In each product description page we also explain what these qualities mean and why they are unique. Our section on Alpaca Fiber provides even more information about Alpacas and their amazing fiber. INCA FASHIONS & ALPACA UNLIMITED • Our sweaters are some of the few certified by the International Alpaca Association and bear the Alpaca Mark of quality! This assures you that you are purchasing the finest quality, pure Alpaca sweaters available anywhere! • Possesses a smooth, non-irritating feel. • Lighter than cashmere, while being stronger, warmer more durable than wool. • Alpaca is naturally water repellant, offers wicking and wonderful thermal insulation! • Products made from Alpaca last for years!
THE MAKING OF CHAMPIONS PART III
WORLD QUEST FOR ROYAL AND BABY ALPACA As alpaca garments make their way into the elite fashion world, new incentives are created for the increased production of finer fleece from breeding herds. These incentives are supported by increased prices for finer fleeces. This, in turn, creates new directives for our breeding programs. The international textile markets are making bold claims about the rich and royal properties of alpaca fiber to attract the same attention to alpaca that cashmere and other high priced elite fiber garments are commanding. The declaration made in both The Making of Champions Parts I & II is that there is an economic incentive for all global alpaca breeders to redirect and place a high priority on breeding ROYAL FINENESS into our alpacas. Old, traditional values of giving priority to breed for WEIGHT & DENSITY are understood to have led to the demise of Peru’s fine alpaca production. This is simply because breeders were rewarded by the volume and weight of the fiber they sold rather than fineness. We need to place value where it is most important which should be determined by the breeds market value. If the market demands and pays more for a fine fleece, that is what we place the most value in as breeders and judges. If, in our system of judging, we place density and weight values equal to
or above fineness, breeders and judges alike are taught to breed and award heavier weight fleeces and larger-framed alpacas. Fineness loses out in the end, hands down. We are not alone in this directive. The Australian Alpaca Breed Standard (as seen on their web site) designates that in the Huacaya, density is perhaps the most important element in alpaca. This is because it determines the commerciality of the fleece, i.e. the quantity of saleable fleece to be sold. If we place quantity above qualilty, we will inevitably face the same fate as Peru, with a loss of Baby and Royal fine alpaca fiber production. Here in the U.S.A., our fleeces are judged with a standard understood as an “absolute” system. This absolute system judges fleeces by comparing them to an ideal fleece, which is expressed by a perfect score of 100. The million dollar question is: what does this perfect fleece look like? I have never heard of a fleece receiving the full 100 points. I asked Alonso Burgos of Grupo Inca, one of the most experienced alpaca fleece buyers in the world, what a perfect 100 point fleece would look like. His answer was supportive of everything Elite breeders of alpaca are trying to breed into their alpacas. I wrote the following down as he described some important elements. “Fineness, brightness, color purity, cleanliness, good length and good, even consistent crimp. Presently, for example, the Vicuña has the perfect fleece in value. So in essence, the most important element of the perfect alpaca fleece would be FINENESS.” The next million dollar question is: what describes good, even, consistent crimp in terms of the perfect fleece? Our fleece scoring system seems to think there is a difference that makes some crimp in fleeces score better than others. Going through
the alpaca judging scores and point system, Burgos did comment that you cannot really judge one fine crimp over another if they both have the same fineness and consistency. This is very important to note: The average curvature in fine alpaca fleeces does not vary enough for one to spin better over another. More importantly, there is very little of this grade available in the market. All are sorted equally by their hand and mean diameter and as closely as possible to the grades of Royal, Baby, Superfine, regardless of crimp. Burgos added that crimp is much more important when it comes to stronger fiber. This is because it has a greater percentage of fibers larger than 30 microns, which do not process nearly as easily due to lower curvature and stronger medulation. These fibers are best blended with other materials that enhance the fineness, handle, and suitability to being spun. Burgos made it very clear that Huacaya Alpaca by its very nature, if fine enough, (18-24 microns) will textile well in both worsted and woolen systems. Again, it’s the stronger micron alpaca fiber (26+) which has stronger medulation, which will not spin
Example 1
and at least 56 mm (or 2 inches) long, it would FINENESS (15) HANDLE (5) be sorted the same as Fleece A-18 Fleece B-17 the blanket. The stronger UNIFORMITY MICRON (8) micron fiber needs to be Fleece A-5 Fleece B-7 (neck is finer than blanket in Fleece A so not as longer. So, when graduniform as B, yet B is stronger in micron) ing Baby or Royal you LENGTH (7) Fleece A-3 Fleece B-6 can add the neck fiber if (neck is shorter than blanket in Fleece A so it has FLEECE SHOW ENTRIES: it is at least 50mm long. been marked down) FLEECE (A) Described as a Vicuña-Style crimp with COLOR (5) This adds a whole new a curvature that tests at 56 and MFD 18 and neck A B Fleece A-5 Fleece B-5 dimension in scoring a as MFD of 16 Total Fleece weighs 3.1 pounds = STYLE CHARACTER (Crimp) (10) 49.6 ounces at $4.00 ounce value = $198.40 fleece for uniformity of Fleece A-6 Fleece B-9 FLEECE (B) Described as Merino-Style crimp with (Fleece B has a bolder, higher amplitude crimp length. but lower curvature than Fleece A and is rewarda curvature that tests at 45 and MFD 22 and Total ed as superior?) In essence, a perFleece weighs 4.1 pounds =65.6 ounces at $2.00 STAPLE TYPE/Density (5) fect fleece–one that an ounce = $131.20 Fleece A-3.5 Fleece B-4.5 will receive the highest (Fleece B has a bolder, higher amplitude crimp Fleece A has added neck wool that is finer (16) that is thought to be denser because it fills financial reward–is clean, the hand better than the finer fleece A and is than the blanket and 2.6 inches in length but not rewarded as denser?) 16-20 microns, has low the same length as the blanket which is 3.6 inches BRIGHTNESS (10) medulation, color purity but otherwise is equally clean as Fleece B. Fleece A-7 Fleece B-6 and is at least 50-65mm LACK OF MEDULLATION (5) Fleece B has only blanket wool which averages long. Fleece A-3.5 Fleece B-4 3.6 inches. Both have equal time in annual growth. So we would hope LACK OF IMPURITIES (5) Both fleeces are graded equally in color. Fleece A Fleece A-3 Fleece B-4.5 that this is what our is rewarded for being brighter and finer, but only ANNUALIZED WEIGHT (20) by 2 points. Fleece B is rewarded greater in weight, fleece scoring system Fleece A-11 Fleece B-14 character, density, and uniformity of micron and would reflect and award TOTAL SCORE length by 12 points. Fleece A-65 Fleece B-77 for. Presently, as demonstrated in the examples, FLEECE B WINS: DUE TO weight/staple-density/ Volume/Weight--20 pts. Annualized yield--weight crimp style/uniformity in length. this is not necessarily the divided by the number of months growth then multiplied by 12 (months) case. Snowmass Alpacas has shown more than well, unless it has a high curvature or higher fre1,000 fleeces, and each one has been grid-tested quency of crimp. The other essential factor in stronand measured for MFD, SD, CV > 30% and Curger fiber is it needs to be longer, at least 65mm. 65 vature. It is very rare that we find our fleeces are mm = 2.5 inches, which an average alpaca proscored accurately on these values, yet in terms of duces without a problem. In the U.S., the average textile values they are the most important. Below staple length an alpaca produces per year is 3 to 5 are examples of this scenario. inches. The other very important element for commerPOINT #1 cial applications, according to Burgos, is color pu These are actual examples of scoring on rity and cleanliness. I asked specifically about the Snowmass fleeces competing in the same color importance of equal staple length. For instance, if class. We have many more to prove that a higher the neck fiber was the same fineness as the blanket micron fleece gets nearly the same reward for but shorter in staple, would it sort separately from fineness as another tested at least 3 microns finer. the fleece? He replied that if it is 20 microns or less Wool classing judging clearly needs more work! U.S.A. NATIONAL FLEECE SHOW Fleece (A) a juvenile colored (Brown) with a mean diameter of 18 ROYAL shows against Fleece (B) a juvenile colored (Brown) with a mean diameter of 22 Baby. Average estimated market value for these fleeces: $2.00 an ounce for Baby and $4.00 an ounce for Royal.
Judge’s Scorecard
POINT #2 stand the financial incentive for further developing The standards are set to breed for DENSITY programs which direct breeding for ROYAL fineness and WEIGHT with bold crimp and higher miin the Alpaca herds as a HIGH PRIORITY on a nacron. FINENESS – 15 points for Fineness is clearly tional scale. To date, there is great national momenNOT ENOUGH. Fineness is one of the most importum for Peru to improve alpaca fiber production. tant elements and is only 15% of the value in this Snowmass Alpacas’ entire collection of publicasystem. There are also no valid wool classing tests tions is dedicated to enhancing Huacaya alpaca in place for the fineness measurement to achieve breeders’ understanding of long-term economic inits just reward. We all know this, because it is only centive in breeding selection for fineness. At present, rarely that the judge’s hand balances closely the incentive to breed for CRIMP still challenges the enough with the histogram tests done in a lab. understanding of where and how fineness fits in. Why are we so remiss with rewarding fineness? Cameron Holt’s article, Is Crimp Important? What At present, according to show authors, there are Do You Think? (International Camelid Quarterly, Volequally important values such as Character and ume 7:4 page 19) is very valuable to the understandStyle and Density. Crimp gets 10 points and Staple ing of the issue of crimp. type/Density gets 5 points. This equals 15% of the overall point value, the Example 2 same amount that Fineness receives. U.S.A. NATIONAL FLEECE SHOW Judge’s Scorecard • What Crimp gets the 10 and why, and by what scientific standards? • Which kind of Staple has more density than another and what about the Vicuña type which does not form staples and has proven to have the greatest follicle density? • More specifically, what crimp character, style and staple type equate to greater textile values? POINT #3 In fleece scoring WEIGHT- DENSITYCRIMP are far overrated and prejudiced in most judging systems. In hindsight today, Peruvian breeders under-
Fleece (A) a yearling colored (WHITE) with a mean diameter of 14 ROYAL shows against Fleece (B) a yearling colored (WHITE) with a mean diameter of 21 mean diameter BABY Average market value for these fleeces: $2.50 an ounce for Baby and $4.00 an ounce for Royal. FLEECE SHOW ENTRIES: FLEECE A: Described as a Silky crimp style with curvature that tests 40.2 and MFD 14.1 %>30 0.1 Total Fleece weighs 3.0 pounds = 48 ounces at $4.00 ounce value = $192.00. FLEECE B: Described as tight Merino style crimp with a curvature that tests 50.7 and MFD 21.0 %>30 3.7 and Total Fleece weighs 4.1 pounds =62.4 ounces at $2.50 an ounce = $164.00. Both fleeces have equal time in annual growth. Both fleeces are graded equally in color and brightness.
Fleece A gets close to full points for Fineness, over Fleece B by 1.5 points. Fleece A also scores better in brightness and uniformity, staple length, medulation and purity. FLEECE B WINS: Fleece B takes a higher score in Weight, Character and density which takes it to first place over Fleece A.
FINENESS (15) HANDLE (5) Fleece A-19
Fleece B-17.5
UNIFORMITY MICRON (8) Fleece A-6 Fleece B-6 LENGTH (7) Fleece A-6 Fleece B-5 COLOR (5) Fleece A-5 Fleece B-5
A
B
STYLE CHARACTER (Crimp) (10) Fleece A-5.5 Fleece B-8.5 (Fleece B has a bolder, higher amplitude crimp but lower curvature than Fleece A and is rewarded as superior?) STAPLE TYPE/Density (5) Fleece A-3 Fleece B-4.5 (Fleece B has a bolder, higher amplitude crimp that is thought to be denser because it fills the hand better than the finer fleece A and is rewarded as denser?) BRIGHTNESS (10) Fleece A-7 Fleece B-6 LACK OF MEDULLATION (5) Fleece A-4 Fleece B-3.5 LACK OF IMPURITIES (5) Fleece A-4 Fleece B-3.5 ANNUALIZED WEIGHT (20) Fleece A-11 Fleece B-14 TOTAL SCORE Fleece A-70.5 Fleece B-73.5 Volume/Weight--20 pts. Annualized yield--weight divided by the number of months growth then multiplied by 12 (months)
Table 1. Peruvian and Australian Alpaca Fiber Production Values Peruvian Alpaca Fiber Values • 90% of alpaca fiber produced is greater than 25um (microns) and sells for $3.00 -30.00 per kg. ($1.2514.00 per lb.) • 10% Pure alpaca & alpaca producing Royal alpaca fiber 12-19 um sells for $60.00 – 120.00 per kg. ($27.00 – 55.00 per lb.) • Wild Vicuña producing fiber 12 to 14um is selling for $500.00 kg. ($227.00 per lb.). Man’s overcoat $15,000 Australian Alpaca Values • Australia Ultrafine 17.9 - 18.9um $60.00 per Kilogram or ($27.00 per lb.) • Superfine 18.9 – 20 um $40.00 per Kilogram or ($18.00 per lb.)
Holt’s article strives to prove that high curvature and Merino type fleeces are superior types of huacaya fleeces to breed for. This is due to their higher curvature ratings, which are better suited for processing in both woolen and worsted milling operations. Holt also points out that this type of fleece has better staple length and micron uniformity. There are even comparisons that lead to the conclusion that this Merino type crimp/curvature is finer than the lower curvature fleeces. There is no argument on our part that the Merino type of crimped alpaca fleece is higher in curvature than the broader, silkier fleeces. However, the strong disagreement comes with them being esteemed as superior and more Elite in terms of handle, fineness, staple length and in end textile. Snowmass’ studies of more than 500 samples were tested each year for the past three years measuring MFD, SD CV, Curvature and medulation. They show that crimp style and curvature are NOT reliable tools to make any correlations with fineness. In our breeding program, we have proven that you can breed fineness into all crimp types with a wide degree of curvature measurements, and you can improve on weight in breeding finer fleeces as well.
The ONLY solid evidence we have ever seen of crimp correlating to fineness is with the Vicuña, which does not vary in crimp and fineness throughout the entire life span of the animal. However, like the Merino crimp styles, both put more energy into the production of finer secondary fiber production, which has greater curvature. This equates to less production in length of staple and less light refraction (or luster) due to high curvature and less surface area to reflect light. The difference between the Merino-type versus the Vicuña type is that Merino-type crimp broadens and the CPI (crimps per inch) decrease as the animal ages, as do all bolder, more expressive deep crimp huacaya fleeces. We call this the SPRING- SPRANG -SPRUNG effect. For example: the first year, you have a wonderful tight spring with deep amplitude and excellent fineness measured at a mean diameter of 19. The second year you find the spring of crimp beginning to get looser and broader and your mean is now 21. The third year it is broader and coarser yet with mean diameter of 24-26. The fourth year, oops, well it’s sprung, and increased by 4 or more microns for a mean diameter of 27-30 microns. The facts are that fineness in the bolder Merino type is hard to keep constant as the alpaca ages. Genetically, the Vicuña varies very little, as is also found in this fleece type and with the pure alpacas that have been identified. This does not mean we should not continue to select for the merino type of fleece, but we should strive harder to breed fineness into it. We are getting better results in our merino type each year and, interestingly, the crimp type starts to look more and more like the Vicuña as we select for long-range fineness. In this respect, this is the only valid correlation that we have seen between crimp and fineness. Those who are breeding for higher definition of crimp, or for the “SPRING” crimp make the same comments as they head down this breeding path. “This is what the judges are looking for, so this is what we are breeding for.”
CRIMP There is no question that curvature and crimp are related. The looser the crimp, the lower the curvature, the tighter the crimp the higher the curvature, the higher the curvature, the higher number of crimps per inch. The one correlation we have seen in our higher curvature and crimped fleeces is that they are found to grow a shorter staple after their first shearing. The same goes for Merino wool, which is the highest in curvature. In hand, with high curvature fleeces, we have also noted that most alpaca, like Vicuùa and Merino fleeces with high curvature, produce a markedly shorter staple length after their first clip, and in all subsequent years’ growth. Higher curvature fleeces also have a slightly harsher handling fiber. This has much to do with both scale height as well as high frequency of crimp, where the edge of the fiber is more easily felt against the skin. This all brings a new dimension and perspective to the importance of crimp question. Is high curvature and high profile crimp important? In terms of processing for spinning knitwear, the answer is YES! In terms of bright sheen, soft silky handle and longer staple the answer is NO. Most importantly, both crimp styles are used if they are fine enough to produce garments of Royal Grade alpaca. The main determining factor for Royal Grade is LOW MICRON and has nothing to do with style of crimp. The amount of Royal Grade alpaca available to mills is so low that they bulk all styles together, just to get enough to process a Royal Grade production line of textiles. As breeders produce more volume of fine alpaca fiber, there will be a trend to diversify and experiment with which fibers produce what types of Royal Garments. For example, it is also a known fact that high crimped/curvature fleeces are easier to commercially card and spin, especially in the woolen mills. This and fineness is why Merino wool is one of the most soughtafter fibers. In tight knit wear, higher curvature is very important over length and or brightness. The other very important factor many breeders are looking at very closely is consistency of fineness and consistency in curvature, so all fibers process evenly for a tighter, softer and long-lasting garment.
Table 2. Conceptual Royal Fleece 100 Point Score Allocation Points 20 10 10 10
Catagory Fineness Handle Brightness Color Purity
10 10 10 10 10
Lack of Medulation Consistency; Uniformity of Crimp Adequate Staple Length Impurities Weight
Table 3. Australian Alpaca Association Micron Range Classification
Table 4. Inca Tops Micron Standards
• Ultrafine <18 microns • Superfine 18.1 - 20 microns • Fine 20.1 - 23 microns • Medium 23.1 - 26 microns • Strong 26.1 - 30 microns • Ex Strong 30.1- 34 • Stronger Coarse 34.1 + • Grade A 5”-6” 120-150mm • Grade B 3”-5” 80-120mm • Grade C 2”-3” 60-80mm • Grade D 2”-2.4” 50-60mm
• Royal Alpaca 19-20 Fiber length 56-60mm 2”-2.2” • Baby Alpaca 22-23 Fiber length >64mm 2.5” • Superfine Alpaca 25-26.5 Fiber length >65mm 2.6” • Vicuña 11-14 micron 30-50 mm 1-2”
There is, however, a trend in both woven and loose-knit garments toward finer, higher luster, lower scale and fibers for Royal and Baby alpaca end-products. Today there are many applications in new textile designs for brighter, silkier types of alpaca fiber. The beauty of the Silky Huacaya fleeces is that most have a high enough curvature to not be a problem in either textile application. Suri is much more limiting with lack of curvature and even flatter scaling. This is very exciting news, as there are so many advancements in the silky Huacaya fleeces that are being overlooked by judges as not having the desired crimp. This type of fleece has the ability to produce valuable end-products and we must begin to recognize and reward this. Only then will enough be produced and developed into the most exquisite textiles. The first and most important factor we must all remember as breeders is 100% of the buying basis is measured on Fineness, not curvature readings. Curvature is not a recognized form of measurement in the purchase of any world alpaca fiber at this stage. Some companies such as GRUPO INCA, the leader in new designs in alpaca, are measuring for particular products.
But even though the wish is to be able to isolate these different types of curvature fleeces, there is not enough of Royal or Baby alpaca to separate it based on these ratings. If more breeders breed for fineness and volumes increase, they can begin to specialize production based on crimp and curvature. Since Snowmass has been testing our herd, we have learned that quite often we are misjudging a fleece by how it looks to the eye versus its value in terms of its scientific measurements. The Vicuña-type fleeces and the wild Camelids are all extremely high in curvature, yet you cannot see this with your eye as well as you can see crimp in the bolder crimp styles such as the Merino. We have said this for many years, and in The Making of Champions I & II, and here it is again, in part III. It needs repeating, as the science in another two years of testing is showing us the same results. DO NOT OVERLOOK THE VALUE OF THE FINER, TIGHTER CRIMP that is not obvious to the eye. We have to use more TACTILE INDICATORS (hands, and skin) in judging our fleeces and also have them tested. We rely on our eyes all too
often and have seen judges just walk past the fleeces that don’t have spring-bound looking crimp. In fact, we often don’t bring our best and most valuable fleeces and/or alpacas to show because of the lack of value placed in fineness. If you were asked to wear a Merino wool sweater, a Baby Alpaca sweater, a Royal Baby Alpaca sweater, a Superfine Alpaca sweater, a Cashmere sweater, or a Vicuña sweater, which would you choose? For softness and comfort and warmth, most would choose sweaters in this order: Vicuña, Cashmere, Royal Alpaca, Merino, Baby Alpaca, Superfine Alpaca. For durability and weather resistance, most would chose garments in this order: Merino, Baby Alpaca, Royal Alpaca, Superfine Alpaca, Vicuña, Cashmere. Merino is durable and still has comfort value. That’s why it is a great blend in conjunction with Superfine alpaca fiber. This makes our average grade alpaca very marketable over a wider range of garments. Vicuña lacks durability because it is so fine, like cashmere, but it the most desirable fiber when worn against the skin. Royal and Baby alpaca are superior because both are durable and have a much higher comfort factor than Merino. If we can get our Alpaca to remain strong and fine it will be the Wool of Choice. Rating of alpaca fiber is measured a bit differently, depending on where you are. See Table 3 for the Australian Alpaca Association’s micron ranges and Table 4 for Inca Tops’ ranges. Table 5 shows grades of fineness by micron ranges as baled from Snowmass’ breeding herd. Table 6 illustrates the importance of quality characteristics in alpaca and llama fiber, as presented in the ICAR (International Committee for Animal Recording) publication, “Current status of Genetic Resources, Recording and Production Systems.”
Table 5. Snowmass Grading Ranges (as tested by Yocom-McColl)
• Royal Alpaca 14-20.9 microns - 4” 55110mm (For elite and luxury garments to wear against skin) • Baby Alpaca 21-22.9 microns 2- 4” 55110mm (Pure or blended with silk, rayon, tensile, cotton for luxury garments against skin) • Superfine Alpaca 23-24.9 microns 2- 4” 5-110mm (Blended with fine wool for sweaters and woven garments) • Fine 25-26.9 microns 2- 4” 55-110mm (Best for blends, rugs and yarns outerwear–sport garments) • Strong 27>microns 2- 4” 55-110mm (Blended with wool for rugs and yarns for outerwear–sport garments)
Table 6. Quality Characteristics In Fiber Tops of Alpaca and Llama Characteristics
Woven Goods Knitwear
Fiber diameter
***
**
Variability of diameter
***
**
Fiber color
***
***
Color homogeneity
***
***
Fiber length
**
**
Variability of length
*
*
Dark hair (presence)
***
*
Kemps (presence)
****
*
Presence of impurities
**
**
Regularity tops
**
**
Luster
***
**
Handle
***
**
Scale: *=low importance; ****= High importance (ICAR Technical Series: ICAR, VIA G Tomassetti 3.I/A, 00161 Rome, Italy.)
SORTING & BALING With all the variables placed on fleece by importance and grade, Snowmass has found the fleece qualities below to be resoundingly valuable traits all breeders should learn to appreciate and breed for: FINENESS, COLOR PURITY, LUSTER, HANDLE, CONSISTENCY. We asked textile expert and International alpaca wool buyer, Alonso Burgos of Grupo Inca to come to our farm to inspect our clip as well as our alpacas. We also discussed sorting, baling and interest in sales. We confirmed from Alonso that mills can process fibers ranging from 11 – 19 microns at 2 inches 55mm. The ideal is 3 to 4 inches 80-110mm. If it is any longer than this, the fiber has to be cut, which adds extra time and expense. In the Australian classification of length, Grade B 3”-5” 80-120mm would be ideal. The coarser the fiber, the longer it has to be, as it tends to be more medulated. Therefore, it does not spin well and results in the need for extra length and/or blending.
Burgos confirmed that when processing Vicuña and other Royal baby fiber, Vicuña type crimp is more consistent in its curvature and ability to spin. He also explained why the mills can spin at much shorter lengths. There is no discrimination against fibers that have bolder crimp if they are equally fine. The ultimate goal is for more fine fiber in any crimp. He believes if we could produce enough of each type of crimp in larger volumes, that the bolder and long-stapled more lustrous fleeces (like the silky) would have very elite and specific textile applications compared to the others. (As a note: Snowmass Alpacas is working to bale enough Royal Silky to send to Peru for special processing. It takes a minimum of 475 pounds). The one thing we learned in our quest to understand what truly is Elite in Alpaca fiber: “Breed for fineness above all else.” Breed it into all
the crimp types, because versatility in color and style makes for many exciting textile prospects. In addition, the beauty in alpaca is it has versatility and the ability to cross the spectrum of possibilities in textile production. It allows for all alpacas of all ages to have valuable fleeces. The variability in micron, crimp, and color makes alpaca the most versatile over any Elite fiber-producing breeds. It is also a very good reason to support diversity. Why is there such an intense push to breed, judge and direct huacaya breeding programs towards a standardized model that idealizes density and volume above fineness? The main reason is based on commercial models of production, such as the merino wool industry. Any commercial venture starts with larger production models to produce large enough quantities of fiber for fashion designers and textile producing companies to work with. The theory is that the more fiber a single animal can produce in a shearing, the better. (Unless of course, as we are warning, the quality and standards are diminished in the production of volume). WHITE FIBER White alpacas have had a head start in breeding selection over color. This is due to white fiberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greater value in commercial production because it is easily dyed. Much of the international market for breeding alpacas is based on the prospect of large, white, commercial herds. This is found in the international market of white merino wool which rose to the top due to its fineness, color clarity, and consistency. Mohair (produced from white Angora goats) also has a strong commercial market.
However, it cannot compete as widely, due to its hair-like properties and limitation in textile values. White alpaca is gaining greater and greater interest and moving forward steadily into the white fiber commercial market. Fine color alpaca is also in the running, but for the prospects of dyeing and ease of breeding selection, white is, without a doubt, the leader in commercial alpaca.
CONSISTENCY The commercial market puts great importance on consistency of color, or as is the case in white, the elimination of color. In the breeding and selection of white alpaca, it is equally important to eliminate all color including colored primary fibers, as it is to reduce medulation and improve on fineness. These goals are more easily achieved when you concentrate on culling all color out and selecting for lack of color (white) in comparison to trying to breed in a consistency of color. Most of us have experienced the difficulty of breeding for specific color and/or purity of non-color (white) when we have a genetic base of over twenty-two colors in the alpaca as a breed.
The real and worldwide problem facing all alpaca breeders lies in having a broad enough genetic base to specifically select for individualized traits of color and fineness. Why? As you get into this market as a breeder, you will soon find there is a short and limited supply of alpacas that are producing the most desired traits of purity and fineness. They are extremely hard to locate and most are held tightly in select breeding programs that cannot afford to let them go. Global breeding programs are beginning to question their ability to produce enough Royal Baby alpaca fiber to satisfy international textile demands. Genetics for the elite alpaca or royal alpaca (those proven to produce highly refined, fine, bright fleece and progeny that bear the same) are in great demand. We have many, years of concentrated and dedicated breeding ahead of us to supply the market demand for bales of Royal alpaca. As a result, we need to become more discerning in our breeding and pay close attention to what is happening in the global market. We must be careful as breeders and judges to not limit our focus on breeding for a particular style of crimp or curvature based on sheep industry models. In this way, we can maintain some of the best properties that make alpaca elite; fineness, brightness, soft handle, added staple length, and extreme versatility in milling processes. The next important factors we need in place are more valid scientific controls. We have many testing systems in place, but they all have too many variables, which can easily distort the results. If samples are not taken using controlled measures, the values are inconsequential. This applies whether you are testing fiber samples or skin biopsies or weight measurements. We also need to use a greater cross-section of alpaca types in our studies and include the vicuna in our breed comparatives. A very good example of testing variability with limited scientific controls across testing methods is seen in Table 8.
Table 7. Principal Royal Fibers Used In Textiles (1 micron = 1/1000 millimeter) Species Vicuña Angora Pacovicuña Cashmere Llama Alpaca Merino Wool Guanaco Camel Yak Pashmina Mohair
Average fiber diameter (microns) 10 to 14 11 to 15 13 to 30 15 to 19 16 to 80 13 to 40 12 to 22 14 to 24 18 to 26 19 to 21 12 to 14 24 to 40
These are side-by-side skin biopsies taken from the same alpaca, sent to two renown testing labs for follicle measurement readings. These same extreme variations in result have been witnessed by many breeders, leaving more questions than scientific answers. Follicle testing is a valuable tool in learning and should not be overlooked. However, we need better scientific controls in place and tests performed across a greater range of Camelids and sites on the animals. At Snowmass, we are now sampling any deceased alpacas including cria and adults on over seven places across the fleece; one sample on the neck and six sites over the blanket area. This information will prove to be very valuable in the world quest to produce the finest, densest alpacas fleece possible. Weight of Fleece Another great variable to factor in to testing results is how weights are being measured and who is doing it. What measurements are we recording for the betterment of the fleece production in the alpaca breed? Who is shearing, what
Table 8. Side by Side Skin Biopsy Samples Tested By Leading Labs
Alpaca A Follicles per sq. mm & S/P Ratio Lab A 54.6 / 10.2sp Lab B 65.5 / 12.3sp Alpaca B Follicles per sq. mm & S/P Ratio Lab A 40.1 / 9.6 sp Lab B 49 / 10.8 sp Alpaca C Follicles per sq. mm & S/P Ratio Lab A 46.3 / 7.3 sp Lab B 73.7 / 8.1 sp
is being weighed and how is it being weighed? Anyone can tell you that if there is financial gain in a higher fleece weight, human nature will win. You will find everything from dirt to dung in fleeces, plus whatever falls off and around the shearing table – if it can be weighed to increase the value! In Canada, the alpaca’s fleece weight is recorded by weighing the alpaca before shearing, then again after shearing. How much of the total weight is dirt, waste, vegetable matter, sweat, and unwanted fiber such as belly, chest, leg, dungstained wool, etc.? Others shear off the blanket and weigh it, then all the rest is put into another bag and weighed for total fleece weight. What is in the seconds that increase the weight? Rarely is just the true, prime, SKIRTED fleece weighed and recorded for sale and marketing purposes. At fleece shows, if you take the time to look at the average fleece weight, you’ll find the average is 3.5 lbs. Anything greater will inevitably have a note on the bottom from the judge indicating the need for better skirting.
SHEARING ALPACAS SNOWMASS FASHION The most important aspects of preparing fleece for sale, processing and showing are: preparation, removal, sorting and grading. Preparation Keep your alpacas on clean pasture or in a clean paddock that is kept wet or sprayed down so that they cannot roll in dust or dirt. Clean up any small hay or vegetable debris that can get in the fleece as soon as possible before shearing day. If you have a harsh winter like we had in 2007 and have limited space, your alpacasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; health is the most important factor. Warm bedding, typically hay or straw, is more important than cleanliness of the fleece. Much of this will fall out as animals are able to get on to green pasture, which you hope you are able to do before shearing day. You need to also prepare areas for your alpacas to get out of the weather if it is raining a few days before shearing. If it is going to rain during your planned shear days, you will want to be sure you have dry sheds ready. Create a shearing shed by finding a clean surface to set up on in a sheltered area. Make sure it is dry and cool. See Appendix for a checklist of items needed. Removal Use a vacuum system for vacuuming alpacas before they hit the shearing floor as well as a central vacuum system. The central system works over the floor to prevent all second cuts, hair and thirds (waste) from mixing with the prime fleece. Sorting Sort your herd for shearing first by fields. Bring in the field and then sort by color. Start with white and then graduate to the fawns, brown, blacks and the greys last. Left, top to bottom: An organized work station makes collection easier. Alpaca identification labels for collection. Skirting tables ready for fleeces. Pens set up to separate animals by color.
We like having two stations, as this saves shearing time and allows for steady, fast work. You need two handlers per station. The holding pen gets the alpaca prepared by vacuuming, then taking it to Station One on the floor. Workers help lay the alpaca down then go back to the holding pen to prepare the next alpaca. On the floor at Station One, you have two people; one for the head the other for the legs. The head man stays at the front of the alpaca at all times. The head man helps to lay them down, then ties their front legs, then keeps the alpaca calm and secure by the head. The tail end man helps to lay down the alpaca, then tie the back legs. He then trims the toes and helps to clean off all debris as the alpaca is being shorn. He is also a towel man for any leakage from the back end (urine) or the front (spit). This year, we invented the SSS (Snowmass Suction System), an overhead vacuum system that is hung by a trio of bungee cords, flexible hose, and large PVC piping. The SSS sucks up all the second cuts, waste, 3rds and 4ths (for us, anything over 25 microns). This is blown out the wall through piping directly into our dump truck. This reduces the need for handlers sweeping and getting in the way by hand-removing unwanted fibers. This has saved a great deal of contamination, stress and need for garbage bags. It has also greatly decreased the time needed to get the next alpaca into the station. An added bonus is the motor
Above: SSS (Snowmass Suction System). Left: Don works alongside the shearer and sorts the fleece as it is clipped, while the SSS removes all unwanted fiber, reducing risk of contamination.
is outside the building, which keeps noise volume down. When stations are done, they release the alpaca and send it to the veterinary holding pen and help set the next alpaca down. The vet holding pen has two to three people who trim heads, vaccinate and worm.
Grading The Fleece Sorter is on the floor working at the side of the shearer, helping to keep the prime fleece clean and skirted as shearing is occurring. They have to then prepare the fleece to throw to the skirting table. Depending on what the Fiber Grader wants at the table, this can be in one piece, cut end down or up. The Skirting Table sorter must be prepared with labeled bags: one for the fiber testing lab and the other sample for reference and record keeping. Then they have to decide if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a show fleece or needs to be graded and prepared for bale (sale). First, the samples are taken from the body of the fleece. If taking a mid-side sample, we locate the center and then go halfway between the center and edge. If grid, then samples are taken from mid rear center and front and pooled into one sample and bagged. The sample for record is also grid sampling and goes into a larger bag. If it is a show fleece, smaller samples for records are taken until after the fleece is shown. If the fleece is destined to be baled, then more generous sampling is taken for record. Samples are put into the proper boxes and then the fleece is quickly skirted and bagged. Grading is done by Micron grade (Royal-BabySuperfine-Coarse) as well as by color. All skirting from prime fleeces goes into seconds sorted by color and grade, as well. We do fourteen fleeces an hour, so thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s about four minutes per fleece. So you have to move quickly.
Left Top: Close up of blanket being removed from the animal. All secondary clippings are pulled off to the side. Left Bottom: Close-up of the SSS removing unwanted clippings. Opposite page left: Sequence showing the fleece being collected and thrown onto the sorting table. Right: After the fleece is sorted and graded, samples are placed into bags for breeding reference and for the testing lab.
S O R T I N G
G R A D I N G
BALING THE FIBER FOR SALE We all have much to learn with the most important final step of preparing our fiber for sale. To attain the most value, it should be skirted, sorted, labeled, tested, baled, and/or properly stored. This adds tremendous value and interest in the sale process of your fiber.
Classing grades of wool is not as easy as one would think. Sample from six different locations on the fleece to understand just how hard it is. Take from mid hip, mid side, and mid shoulder, bottom shoulder, and mid-neck. Label them accordingly, and have them tested with the OFDA 100 (Yocom McColl) for AFD and Curvature. You will find that consistency of MFD is not a given across the fleece. In other words, we may be producing alpacas with finer histograms sampled from the mid-side, however the overall blanket production is much more varied in consistency. This is the main reason that you find a greater MFD range for the finest grades of Royal and Baby listed at 19-20 and Baby Alpaca 22-23 in Peruvian Standards. Skilled laborers are hand-classing entire clips of fleece from thousands of alpacas for commercial processing and the range in these fibers is enormous. There is a current effort to teach Peruvian highland breeders to shear, presort and attain better consistency. The better the skirting, the higher the overall fiber grade. As a result, the fiber is more consistent and attains a lower MFD. The other variable is handle, which is as important in the sort and grade as the testing for Mean Fiber Diameter and Curvature. This is because the handle of
Left top to bottom: Fleece stored in the bale room. Test result sheet from Yocom-McColl. Opposite page left top to bottom: Sorted bags of fiber. Loading the baler Baling room. The blue machine is the baler. Opposite page right top to bottom: Fiber sorted for baling. Fiber in the baler. Fiber about to be compressed by baler. Final bales stored. Bales being assessed by Alonso Burgos of Grupo Inca.
B A L I N G
many Royal and Baby grades of alpaca are higher in mean diameter (19-21) but softer and brighter than a fleece lower in mean diameter (15-18). This is why the alpaca fleece sorting houses of Peru and South America are the most sophisticated in their sortingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;their use of qualified woolclassing hands. Across the world, we have many breeders who have diligently worked with thousands of fleeces developing comparable skills. But all skills have to be matched with constant testing against the samples sent for testing with OFDA 100 (Yocom Mc Coll). Here at Snowmass, we skirt and test every fleece for breeding information as well as to prepare the individual fleeces for show. Each is graded and labeled by the wool classer, Julie Skinner, here at Snowmass Alpacas. It is then placed in individual bags then in larger bags by sort and grade. The show fleeces are stored in one room. The bale fleeces are taken to the wool baling room for a second sort and grade and are then baled. Each bale is then core sampled through the bottom and top of the bales, which is collected and sent to the lab for testing again, to determine the MFD of each Bale. Then you have an official record of purity for the sale and processing of your baled fiber. The final step is where the art of textiles begins: the palette of colors, the designs and final products. This is truly something to celebrate and inspire the continued production of the wonderful breed of Alpaca.
Top: Grading table. Bottom: Color samples of natural and dyed alpaca fiber.
Appendix: Checklist of Items For Shearing ITEM Fleece Bags 16x14x36 2ml gusseted bags Show Fleece Bags 2ml gusseted bags Bale Bags 40x22x72 gusseted bags Sample Bags Yocom 6x10 Sample Bags Snowmass 8x10 Fiber labels Marks-a-Lot markers Sharpie markers ARI Color Charts Stapler Calculator Desk lamp Leads & halters Supplemental Lights: Fiber sorting table: Shearing area: Head trimming: Veterinary Caddy: Fiskars scissors Toenail trimmers Teeth caddy Battery & electric trimmers Ivomec Worming paste 12 cc syringes 18 cc needles Triple antibiotic ointment MalOtic Eye ointments B-Comp paste & Injections A & D injection Rebound Super Glue Suture materials Surgical staplers Ear tags Towels - bath & hand Paper towels Miscellaneous: Poop cart Shovel Poop broom Push brooms Kitchen brooms X-Large trash bags (handle tie) Large trash cans Paper cups Knee pads Extension cords Multiple outlets Tables - 6 foot Kitchen trash cans Bose radio Chairs Pop Ice chest Chocolate Water cooler/bottles
No. Needed 500 250 100 1000 1000 2/alpaca 4 4 2 1 1 1 5 4 2 2 100 4 1 2 1000 cc 500 count 2 boxes 600 1 1 2 1 1 3 cases 2 4 2 6 each 24 each 16 rolls 1 1 1 2 2 200 2 200 10 6 4 2-3 3 1 6-10 3 cases 2 lots 1/3
Located
Purchase!
Set-up
Sumptuous Fiber; Extraordinary Rewards! As fineness and quality of wool increases worldwide, prices for the most elite raw materials are increasing exponentially. These days, bales of the finest wools are commanding unheard of prices that seem to increase parallel to fineness. This quest for the best is creating very real incentives for breeders in the alpaca industry, who are set to take advantage of world demand. Luxury brands are now seeking out fiber with the intention of procuring the very finest product for specific end-products. Loro Piana is a classic Italian global luxury brand run by a regal family from Milan. Brothers Pier Luigi and Sergio have continued their father Loro’s almost obsessive search for the world’s best raw materials. In an effort to maintain their reputation as a top producer of high-end fabrics, they go right to the sources: New Zealand and Australia for wool, China and Mongolia for cashmere and Peru for Vicuña. Loro Piana began buying Vicuña from Peru in 1994 and for a decade had an exclusive contract with the government to buy the animal fleeces, which are used to make $6,000 sweaters and jackets that cost three times as much. In New Zealand and Australia, Loro Piana has bolstered its reputation as a buyer of the highest quality wool by holding an annual competition to see who can come up with the finest fleece. In Mongolia in 1997 the company set up a subsidiary, the first wholly foreign-owned company in the country, to buy cashmere directly from the herders. “We check everything to make sure it is pure and of the highest quality,” said Pier Luigi Loro Piana. “There is good wine and bad wine; we buy only the good wine.” But Loro Piana is not the only company combing the globe for materials - for example, other companies now handle a third of the Vicuña coming to the market - so Loro Piana is constantly working on the next thing. In Sydney, Australia in 2004, a 90 kilogram bale of merino wool only 11.9 microns thick was sold to winning bidders Kathaytex, a Chinese wool mill, for $670,000. This turned out to be a bargain according to company representative Frank Yao, who had been authorized to pay up to two million for the extremely fine fiber. The wool is destined for high fashion suits and shirts that will sell for around $100,000. The source of this exceptional fiber is Primerino, the brand known to produce the softest wool in the world. Based in the Waroo Hills of Australia, the company has dedicated itself to worldwide production of superfine wool. Alpaca breeders should take note of the recent achievements in the sheep world. It is not a difficult leap to make to foresee alpaca bales commanding such prices. The key is quality and intelligent breeding choices.
Pier Luigi Loro Piana holds a vicuña
Frank Yao inspects wool from world record bale
Guards secure a wool bale from Primerino