craft cluster by shraddha andani

The Forgotten Kingdom 1

Karnataka Craft Diaries...

THE FORGOTTEN KINGDOM 33

PREFACE Craft Cluster is an introduction to the handicraft industry to give the students working knowledge of the traditional crafts. It blends their classroom knowledge and traditional techniques. It also aims at providing the students with the knowledge of the design process and manufacturing process followed since ages. Cluster is an important part of a studentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life. Where they get to know more about the traditional skills. It helps to understand the limitations and criteria for designing a product which can sell itself in the market for a longer time period. This document is a means to share our experiences and learnings from the craft cluster. In the following document we have tried to share all the knowledge we have gained about our cluster in brief as well the projects we focused on.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT In conducting this project, we have received munificent help from many quarters, which we like to put on record here with deep gratitude and great pleasureFirst and foremost, we are highly obliged to Mrs. Shama Pawaar, the owner of the Kishkinda Trust, who has given us the opportunity to learn and study the handicrafts. She allowed us to encroach upon her precious time from the very beginning of this work, till the completion. Her expert guidance, affectionate encouragement and critical suggestions provided us necessary insight into the project and paved the way for the meaningful ending of this craft prject work in the short duration. We also express our warm gratitude and cordial thanks to Mr. Venkat ( CIC), Mr. K.K. Babu (cc), and Mr. Ravi Shekhar for giving us the valuable time and suggestions. We would to thank god for his blessings on us. My gratitude to all those who have been helpful in anyways in the completion of this project.

Copyright ÂŠ 2014 National Institute of Fashion Technology All right reserved.No part of this document may be reproduce, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted into any form by any means whether electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning without the permission of the copyright owner. By- Anchal Bathla, Apoorva Signh, Kanchan Singh, Manoj Kumar Shukla, Nivedita Nandini and Shraddha Andani.

CONTENTS Introduction to cluster project ........................................ Handicrafts Sector .......................................................... -Handicraft of India ................................................... -History of Handicrafts ............................................... Handicrafts of Karnataka ............................................... -About the Region (Hampi) .................................... Crafts -banana fibre craft ................................................ -stone craft ............................................................. Design Process 1 (Banana fibre craft) -Theme, Story Board .............................................. -Doodlings .............................................................. -Final design/Technical Drawing ......................... Design Process 2 (Stone craft) -Theme, Story Board .............................................. -Doodlings .............................................................. -Final design/Technical Drawing ......................... An Unforgettable Project / Experience -Group work (memebers) .................................... Conclusion ...................................................................... Index ................................................................................ Glossary .......................................................................... References/Bibliography ..............................................

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INTRODUCTION The craft cluster initiative of nift is a project undertaken in order to boost and enhance the crafts of india with the mainstream. A project where fertile mind of Nift students interact with capabilities and exclusivity of craftsmen for upliftment of craft. Students get a unique opportunity in 4th semester to study the craft sector by visiting the craft region to study the socio-economic and cultural context , interact with the craftsmen & follow up action with appropriate design & technology upgradation. Our group chose hampi (karnataka) to discover craft cluster of banana fibre and stone carving. We have studied the craft, cultural and social environment and opportunities in handicraft sector in Karnataka region.

HANDICRAFT SECTOR 12

HANDICRAFTS OF INDIA Crafts are an integral part in the life of an Indian, despite the rapid social and technological changes that are

taking place. In the Western world, special artists create craft objects and they are considered as luxury items.

But in India like many other developing countries it is the main source of employment for a vast majority of the population, next to agriculture. Handicrafts can be defined simply as objects made by the skill of the hand and which carry a part of the creator as well as centuries of evolutionary tradition. It can range from the simple clay- lamps to the diamond -studded jewellery items. Handicrafts consists of objects created by skilled people for religious rituals, like wedding and celebrations and for personal use as well as luxurious ones created by specialized craftsmen for specific requirements. Handicrafts bring a great sense of grace to every home be it the poor hut or the opulent star hotel. There is a timeless quality in these craft objects, for they have evolved over centuries and continue to be made even today with the same sentiment. There are three main classifications of crafts . • Folk crafts • Religious crafts • Commercial crafts. People for their personal use, or for a limited client base create folk crafts. Folk embroideries done by the village women folk of India are a good example. There are craftsmen who are specialized in creating textiles or jewellery which meet the criteria set up by a particular group of people, usually a particular caste or community. They have their own distinctive designs and styles. Religious crafts are developed around religious centers and themes. These craft items are connected with religious institutions and relevant ceremonies. Various religious places in India are specialized in particular craft items. For example, Varanasi and Kanchipuram in Tamilnadu specialize in weaving clothes for religious ceremonies, particularly silk materials. Similarly Puri in Odisha, which is a big pilgrim center, is connected with crafts like patacharita- a painting on cloth and wood and stone carvings. Specialized craftsmen of a particular group who are specialized in a particular skill and who can completely master the commercial crafts. They even have sub groups, which work for particular groups, and their tools and techniques may vary. The Weavers, the Dyers, the Printers, the Goldsmiths and the Carpenters are some of the commercial craftmen.

HISTORY OF CRAFTS IN INDIA Crafts were an important commodity for world trade and they were a part of the economy in India, since

ancient times. Trade links between India and the rest of the world existed from ancient periods. India being the home of cotton had textile trade with the Far East and the Western world. Indian textiles and their permanent dyes were accepted throughout the world. Roman trade documents mention that silk was exported from India to Europe from the 6th century A.D. The Arab sailors brought silver and gold from their countries and took back shiploads of handicraft objects from India to the Far- East. In the North, caravans carried woven textiles along the Silk route and went right unto Moscow by the Fur- route. Under the good patronage of the early Mughals, India's handicrafts reached its pinnacle of perfection. Crafts like carpets, textiles and jewellery were developed into fine arts. The famed Mughal Emperors namely Akbar, Shah Jahan and Jehangir invited skilled craftsmen from all over the world and blend their native ideas with our own techniques and skills. Brocading and velvet manufacturing developed rapidly in India than in their native countries. But with the breakup of the Mughal Empire and the growing enmity between the smaller Princely states, local crafts lost their centuriesold local patronage. With the East India Company coming to India, the volume of trade reduced though they managed to strive. England flooded the Indian market with its cheap machine-made items, which ousted the homemade crafts. A number of craftsmen were turned destitutes overnight. Those who continued with their craft had to compete with the machinemade goods, that quality was made to suffer. Gandhiji's Swadeshi movement focused on the plight of the Indian craftsmen and on the need for maintaining the ancient craft traditions. After Independence, The Handicrafts Board was set up to look into the plight of the dying crafts. Slowly demand grew for these items both at home and also abroad. Recent export figures show that India is lagging behind in many handicraft commodities except in the case of gems and jewellery items. Despite the growth of handicrafts industry in India, the average earnings of the craftsmen when compared to other fields is very low. Hence the younger generation is moving onto other fields with only the elder craftsmen left over. The average age of many master craftsmen is around 50 years. Improving educational system and lifestyles of the middle class people contribute a lot for the eroding of the native crafts in India. Cheap plastic items have now flooded the market and people have left out the age-old clay and metal containers. They do not understand the harmfulness of plastic items, which may react with their food . Also they have moved onto wearing synthetic clothes avoiding good, comfortable and cheap cotton woven items, just for their patterns and cost. The need of the hour is assistance for the craftsmen to improve their techniques, availability of good raw materials, direct marketing channels, credit and enough wages and socio-economic benefits. 15

HANDICRAFTS OF KARNATAKA 17

HANDICRAFTS OF KARNATAKA

Karnataka also produces many fine fabrics and crafts of Karnataka. Amongst the most popular Karnataka handi-

crafts are Mysore silk and paintings About Karnataka The land of Karnataka is blessed with many fascinating monuments, historical structures, lush forests, and some amazing scenic beauty along with a vibrant culture. This state is a place of variety, where you can have a unique travel experience. Bengaluru, earlier known as Bangalore, which is an IT hub, is the capital of the state. Other interesting destinations of Karnataka include coorg, Mysore, Hampi and Pattadakal, Bijapur, and so on. Wildlife sanctuaries of Bandipur, Nagarhole and Dandeli, as well as the Ranganathittu Birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sanctuary are other places of interest in Karnataka. Like everything in the state, the handicrafts of Karnataka are also amongst the most sought after things for tourists because of their uniqueness. Karnataka handicrafts Most art and crafts of Karnataka are produced by using traditional methods, which has proved to be the hallmark of fineness in craftsmanship for Karnataka artisans. The temples and monuments in Karnataka are the living examples of stonework and the perfect skills of the craftsmen in the state. Moreover, these crafts have been going on for generations. Paintings, ivory carving, sandalwood crafts, Mysore silk etc., are some of the many interesting crafts seen in Karnataka. Moreover, metal work of Udupi is also renown for heir intricate craftsmanship . Different categories of Karnataka handicrafts -- Wood Works -- Mysore Silk -- Leather lampshade -- Metal Ware -- Mysore Paintings -- Ivory Carving -- Stone Carving -- Sandalwood Craft -- Doll Making -- Bidri Crafts

HANDICRAFTS OF KARNATAKA Wood Works or woodcarving is an ancient and very popular craft of Karnataka. The temples of the state and their architecture showcase the most impressive works of wood in Karnataka. The detailed designs done on wooden ceilings, doors etc., show the best of such works. The wooden works are done by means of traditional methods. Many idols of deities are also a part of this beautiful crafts. Another very known and most heard about craft of Karnataka is the Mysore Silk, which is the major export material of the state. More than half of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production of mulberry silk comes from Karnataka. Mysore became the main center during the time of Tipu Sultan, who ruled the city long back. The concept of Sericulture influenced him and he brought silk worms from Bengal to establish the silk business in Mysore. Now, you can buy saris and shawls made of Mysore silk, which are extremely popular. Metal Ware work in Karnataka is limited to few areas and cities only. Bronze casting is famous in some part of the state whereas bell metal in some other. Many things required in performing religious duties are made up of metal. Udupi, Karkala, Mangalore and Nagamangala are some popular places where metal work is still done. There is no doubt that Mysore Paintings are the most popular and one of the most oldest form of art preset in Karnataka. These paintings are still made in the same form as they were being made in the ancient period. The use of vegetable colors in bright hues, gold leaf, and fine lines make these paintings unique and exclusive. Ivory Carving is another popular craft of Karnataka. In this craft articles are curved delicately showcasing the figures deities. Stone Carvers is again an interesting craft form of the state. Most of the skills of these stone carvers in Karnataka can be seen in the temples and its idols. Sandalwood Craft is used to produce beautiful art pieces include images of lord Krishna, lamp shades, trays, jewel boxes, decorative articles, combs and walking sticks and so on. Doll Making in Karnataka is a craft where dolls are made by wood or on wooden platform. They are then decorated and painted upon. Besides these wooden puppets, Karnataka also produces leather puppets which are more extensively used. Leather skin lamphades and other decoration hangings, these are beautiful lamshade hand painted lampshade and other decorated figures for home decorations, made of goat leather skin. strippling by thin pin andpainted by beautiful colours.

ABOUT THE REGION- HAMPI

A CITY TIME FORGOT Never perhaps in the history of the world has such havoc been wrought, and wrought suddenly, on so splendid a city, teeming with wealthy and industrious population in the full plentitude of prosperity one day, and on the next seized, pillaged and reduced to ruins, amid scenes of savage massacre and horrors begging description.

Robert Sewell, A Forgotten Empire.

Hampi, once a flourishing capital of the Vijayanagar Empire, is a very small village in the Northern Karnataka.

Hampi exhibits the vast relics of the city of Vijaynagar, also known as the City of Victory. The Vijaynagar empire extended from the Arabian Sea to the Bay of Bengal and from the Deccan Plateau to the tip of the peninsula. It was built as a showpiece of imperial magnificence. The main attraction in Hampi is the temples built by the Vijaynagar Empire. The temperature in Hampi ranges from 23 to 38 degree Celsius in summers and 10 to 15 degree Celsius in winters. Hampi can be visited throughout the year, except from April to June, when it is very hot. Hampi in the state of Karnataka is situated on th banks of the Tungabhadra river and is one of the noted UNESCO World Heritage Sites. During the medieval period of the Vijayanagara Empire which was popularly known as the City of Victory, Hampi was its capital. Hampi is noted for its hundreds and hundreds of monuments including numerous temples and monolithic structures. Hampi even today in its ruined state exhibit its rare excellent features and Hindu architectural culture. Hampi situated on the backdrop of huge mountains attracts thousands of pilgrims and tourists every year from different parts of the world. Hampi has an endless list of magnificent feature adding to its beauty like beautiful temples, basement of palaces, remains of aquatic structures, ancient market streets, royal pavilions, bastions, royal platforms, treasury buildings etc

The color of the unique landcape of Hampi-- red gold hills,emerald fields and a sparkling river.

HISTORY

The history of Hampi dates back to the 1st century AD during which it was the capital of the largest Hindu empire in India namely the Vijaynagar Empire. The city of Hampi was first discovered in 1336 by two brothers Harihar and Bukka.Hampi flourished to glory during the reign of Krishnadevaraya who had a control over the south of the Tungabhadra River.Hampi was very well protected with nearly seven concentric lines of fortifications and with a majestic and huge army. It was an important centre for trade during the medieval period especially for cotton and spice. But soon there was a decline in the mighty Kingdom of Vijaynagar with the death of Krishnadevaraya and was totally destroyed in 1565 by five Muslim kingdoms namely Bidar, Bijapur, Golconda, Ahmednagar and Berar The emperor Ashoka's minor rock edicts in Nittur & Udegolan (both in Bellary district) leads one to believe that this region was within the Ashokan kingdom during the 3rd century BCE. A Brahmi inscription & a terracotta seal dating to the 2nd century CEwere also discovered from the excavation site.[4] The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1 CE. Immediately before the rise of the Vijaynagara kings, the region was probably in the hands of chiefs of Kampili, now a small town, 19 km east of Hampi.[4] Hampi formed one of the core areas of the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565, when it was finally laid siege to by the Deccan Muslim confederacy.[1] Hampi was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra river on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on the other three sides.

The gopuram of the Virupaksha Temple. The Vijayanagar kings claimed to rule in the name of Lord Virupaksha

GEOGRAPHY:

Hampi is situated on the banks of the Tungabhadra river. The historic city is 353 km from Bangalore, 254 km from Bijapur and 74 km away from Bellary. Hospet is the nearest taluka headquarters. It is 13kms away. Kannada is the main language spoken here. The chief industries of Hampi are agriculture and tourism. The region is blessed with rich mineral deposit mainly iron-ore and manganese. These rich minerals actually contributed a lot in the construction of the splendid piece of architecture that are famous all over the world. The place is also known for red soil. Hampi has dry and hot climate. Rainfall here varies from 0.0 to 462.0 (mm/month)

GETTING THERE:

By Air The most convenient airport from Hampi is Belgaun (190kms). Several airlines operate regular flights connecting Belgaun with prominent cities in south India. Bangalore (353kms), the capital of Karnataka also serves as a well-located entry point for Hampi. By Rail A good network of roads connects Hampi with other important tourist attractions in Karnataka. Bangalore lies only 350kms (approx) away and one can easily drive own to Hampi from here. Places like Hassan, Hospet, Mysore are also well connected with Hampi. By Road The nearest railhead from Hampi is Hospet (13kms). Hospet is connected to Bangalore, which is in turn linked to the major Indian cities like: Chennai, Kolkata, Delhi, Mumbai and other prominent tourist attractions across the length and breadth of India.

Population of Hampi,

The population of Hampi, India is 10000 according to the GeoNames geographical database.

Latitude, Longitude, and Elevation

Hampi, India is located at 15.3352 [latitude in decimal degrees], 76.4609 [longitude in decimal degrees] at an elevation/ altitude of meters. The average elevation of Hampi, India is 419 meters.

Time zone

The time zone id for Hampi is Asia/Kolkata.

RELIGION:

Religion was one of the strong inspirations in Hampi. Its religious history is much older than the political history. Both the subjects and their rulers of this place had an almost innate faith in God. Hampi had been a religious place throughout; where pilgrims from faraway places flocked. The rulers of Hampi might have gone with the torrent of time. Hampi’s faiths remain, intact and deep-rooted.

FOODING:

Most of the Hampi’s eateries are concentrated around the Hampi Bazaar . Typical south Indian vegetarian food is the order of the town. That includes Idli & Dosa for the breakfast and the Tali meals for lunch. It’s not very difficult to spot eating joints sell western themes like pancake & likes. A large number of guesthouses in Hampi is attached with some type of restaurants

ARCHITECTURE:

The city of Vijayanagara was originally encompassed by seven lines of fortifications. These fortifications had a large number of bastions & gateways. The seventh & the innermost fortification enclosed the main city & is the best preserved.The extant monuments of Vijayanagara or Hampi can be divided into Religious, Civil & Military buildings. While most of the monuments at Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion may be assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The Jain temples on Hemakuta hill, the two Devi shrines & some other structures in the Virupaksha temple complex predate the Vijanagara Empire. The earliest amongst them, the Shaiva shrines with their stepped pyramidal vimanas or superstructures, date to the early Chalukyan period around ninth-tenth century AD.

PLACES OF INTEREST:

Virupaksha Temple The presiding deities of this temple are Shiva, Pampa and Bhuvaneswari and it belongs to the 15th century. This temple rises 25

majestically at the western end of the famous Hampi Bazaar. At the eastern entrance of the temple there is a tall tower which goes upto 120 feet. This temple is also known by the name Pampapathi temple. Malyavanta Raghunathaswamy The architecture of this temple belongs to the Dravidian style whose main highlights include strange motifs of fish and marine monsters engraved along its outer walls. The Malyavanta Raghunathaswamy temple is situated at a distance of about 3kms down the road. Vithala Temple Complex This is the major tourist attraction of Hampi and is noted for its architecture and monuments. The temple is noted for its 56 musical pillars and the stone chariot with a moveable stone chariot. There is a huge mandapam on a fabulously worked basement just facing exactly opposite to the shrine. The roof of this mandapam pillared with granite, around 15 feet in height, each again consisting of a central pillar enclosed by detached shafts, all cut from one single block of rock. House of Victory This was built by Krishnadeva Raya to celebrate his victory over the King of Odisha after a long battle. The internal spaces between the rows of the plinth-moldings here are most intricately carved. It was from this place where the kings use to sit on a throne and witness the nine-day Dasara festival. Hazara Ramaswami temple The Hazara Ramaswami temple is supposed to be the private place of worship for the royal family. The main noted features of this temple are the sequence of scenes from the Ramayana engraved on two of the inner walls of the mantapa. Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Balance The Kingâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Balance used to be the place where the kings for their measure of weight distribute gold, grain, or money to the poor and needy. There also used to be a swimming pool which used to be the main bath area for the queen. The swimming pool measures to 50 feet long and 6 feet deep, flaunting arched corridors, balconies and lotus-shaped fountains of perfumed water. Lotus Mahal This is a two-storey structure in the shape of a lotus flower with beautiful archways set in geometric pattern. This Mahal was mainly used by the queens during the month of summer.

Elephant Stables This is the place where the elephants used to be kept. This stable exhibits the Hindu and Muslim style of architecture. Mahanavami Dibba Mahanavami Dibba is a lion story wooden structure from which the kings and princes viewed the town with pomp, colour and revelry at the time of the Mahanadu festival. Daroji Bear Sanctuary Daroji Bear Sanctuary situated close to Hampi is oriented more towards the eastern side of the state which is very adventurous and is a home for the Indian Sloth Bears. This sanctuary was started in 1994.

AROUND HAMPI:

Anegundi The site across river Tungabhadra is associated with epic Ramayana and is said to be located in the mythical kingdom of Kishkinda. The Anjanadri Hill, near Anegundi is said to be the birthplace of the Lord Hanuman. Around Anegundi are a number of ancient temples and fortifications. The main attractions are â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Huchappayana Mata Temple. Sacred Pampa Sarovara,, Aramane (a ruined Palace) and the Ranganatha Temple. Hospet (12 kms.) This gateway to Hampi lies 61 kms. From Bellery. It was founded by Krishnadevaraya. The main attraction is the picturesque temple of Jambhunatha set on a hill nearby.

BANANA FIBRE CRAFT Introduction Banana FiberBanana plant not only gives the delicious fruit but it also provides textile fiber, the banana fiber. It grows easily as it sets out young shoots and is most commonly found in hot tropical climates. All varieties of banana plants have fibers in abundance. These fibers are obtained after the fruit is harvested and fall in the group of bastfibers. This plant has long been a good source for high quality textiles in many parts of the world, especially in Japan and Nepal.

Process In India we have about 5 lakh hectares of Banana cultivation only 10% of the Banana waste is extracted as fibre. Mostly the fibre is extracted by manual process and the yield of fibre is very low and this kind of manual process needs skilled labours. After a brief study of Banana fibre extraction. Eco green unit developed a Banana fibre extracting Machine, Which can be easily operated, by an unskilled labour, and gives maximum output. The stems are cutted and divided into pieces, and inserted into the machine and extracted as fibre.

Storage and Packaging After getting the fibre from the machinery, it should be beaten in the stone beds, and squeezed, and it should be combed without pith content and should be 100% dried and packed, by air tight Polythene Bags.

Machinery 1. Machinery is developed by German technology, with 1 H.P. single phase motor. 2. Easy to Mobilize (Portable) 3. Ladies can operate, less maintenance, and safe to operate. 4. User friendly & Economic. 5. Clean work atmosphere. 6. Fifty times increase in fibre production compared to manual process. 7. Superior quality fibre in terms of length, softness and colour.

Persons to operate 2 Persons (Ladies). One is to cut the trees into pieces and another person is to operate the machinery

Space Requirement 15 x 10 special room is enough for one unit. (Includes storing of Raw material and finished products

Who can go for this Industry? 1. Banana cultivating farmers (Rs.2,500/- extra income per acre is assured) 2. Self help Groups 3. Entrepreneurs.

Project in urban sectors? Yes certainly, this project can be done in urban areas, the fruit bunches (â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Uâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; type stems) can be collected in vegetable markets, which is plenty and dumped as waste.

Usages of Banana fibre 1. The banana fibre is extensively used as a blending material in textile industry. 2. Banana fibre is used in Pulp industry. 3. A wide range of Handicrafts are made in Banana fibre.

About Marketing? A vast market is in the countries of U.S and Europe. Eco green unit has a marketing Tie-up with the entrepreneurs to those whom we have supplied the machinery. Our requirement is 3,200 tons per Annum. This can be done only by promoting this project country-wide mode. We target this project as a community based development programme, rural upliftment and a wealth from waste concept. We have a tie-up with state governments in India. The project promotion is done through Agricultural Department, Women Development, Rural Development Authorities, NGOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Farmers associations and with individuals. 30

Characteristics Banana fiber is a natural bastfiber. It has its own physical and chemical characteristics and many other properties that make it a fine quality fiber. Banana FiberAppearance of banana fiber is similar to that of bamboo fiber and ramie fiber, but its fineness and spinnability is better than the two. The chemical composition of banana fiber is cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin. It is highly strong fiber. It has smaller elongation. It has somewhat shiny appearance depending upon the extraction & spinning process. It is light weight. It has strong moisture absorption quality. It absorbs as well as releases moisture very fast. It is bio- degradable and has no negative effect on environment and thus can be categorized as eco-friendly fiber. Its average fineness is 2400Nm. It can be spun through almost all the methods of spinning including ring spinning, open-end spinning, bastfiber spinning, and semi-worsted spinning among others.

Applications Banana FiberBagIn the recent past, banana fiber had a very limited application and was primarily used for making items like ropes, mats, and some other composite materials. With the increasing environmental awareness and growing importance of eco-friendly fabrics, banana fiber has also been recognized for all its good qualities and now its application is increasing in other fields too such as apparel garments and home furnishings. However, in Japan, it is being used for making traditional dresses like kimono, and kamishimo since the Edo period (1600-1868). Due to its being lightweight and comfortable to wear, it is still preferred by people there as summer wear. Banana fiber is also used to make fine cushion covers, Necties, bags, table cloths, curtains etc. Rugs made from banana silk yarn fibers are also very popular world over.

STONE CRAFT Introduction

The art of stone carving developed in India, a little later when compared to woodcarving. India has a huge

resource of different variety of stones and our skilled craftsmen impart life into them. The Indian craftsman's mastery over stone is best revealed in the architecture and sculptures found inKhajuraho temples. The intricate carvings found at Sanchi are among the finest found anywhere in the world. Gaya, a pilgrim site for the Buddhists also has an ancient tradition of stone carving. The ancient stone carvers were guided by the Shilpa Shastra, which clearly laid the rules for them. The main deity was carved by specialists who were knowledgeable in the properties of different stones, their grain, as well as their proportion needed for the carving. The act of carving the deity was considered as an act of worship and was considered as a sacred ritual. Stone temples are built even today and theSthapathis of Tamilnadu as well as the Somapuras of Gujarat and Rajasthan are in good demand throughout the country.

Stone craft in India Varanasi is an important center for stone carving works. Here a community of people called the Raidas do it. Around Varanasi, Hamirpur, Tehri Garhwal and Bageshwar are famous for statue works whereas Banda is known for agate stone works. Agra in Uttar Pradesh is famous for its marble stone works. Many pieces like lattice windows, mirror frames, carved brackets, canopies, pendants and filigree works are carved here. The craftsmen are famous for their inlay works. Mostly geometrical and floral patterns are worked on using colored stones and semi precious ones. Rajasthan maintains a rich tradition of stone carving even in the common domestic buildings. Doorframes are commonly built of red stones. Windows have stone trellis works and even the supporting frame for the loom is made of carved stones. Jaipur is one of the most important centers where a large community of stone carvers carve deities in marble. Large commemorative stones are a common sight in Rajasthan as well as in Gujarat. Odisha also has a tradition of stone carving. Besides the main deity they also carve figures for the temple friezes. Nowadays soft stones are used for carving small souvenir items, which are meant for sales to the tourists. Mahabalipuram in Tamilnadu deals with hard granite stone carvings. There is also a school for training the Sthapathis according to the rules of the ancient Shilpa Shastras.

In Karnataka, Devanahalli a village near Mysore and kaddirampur in Hampi produces carved figures in relief on black stone. The figures appear to have movement and strength in their postures. The figures not only have the effect of light and shade and a rounded form but also a linear quality. Durgi, in Andhra Pradesh is another stone carving center where large nandis, bulls and local deity images are carved.

Stone craft in Hampi The Village Shivarapatna is very well known for its intricate carvings on black and grey granite to make idols for temples. The Shivarapatna craft is popular all over India and abroad. There are myths that “During the period of Ganga Dynasty a ‘shilpi’ (Craftsperson) named Basulinga Acharya was traveling from a place which were near Karnataka and Tamil Nadu border in then India to some other place and he spent a night in a Dharmashala in the village Shivarapatna. After cooking the food in the night, he took some pieces of charcoal and drawn an idol on the wall, which was very beautiful. Next morning few villagers saw the line drawing and got surprised by the skill of him. This news spread like wild fire in the village and the king got to know about this. He came to the village to meet him and asked him to stay in the village and practice the craft and offered him land in the village to stay. There onwards the craft flourished in the village. The Ganga dynasty that ruled Karnataka started traditional sculptures that have been continuing for two thousand years. Basavalingachari from the Jakanacharya hereditary started the Vishwakarma community structures. They came in groups and they settled in the village to construct temples. The Vishwakarma structures has been given the name Shilparamam and the village making these stone structure came to be known as the Heritage Village, by the government recently. Below outlined an account of the family which has been routinely engaged in stone craft. A case study method was followed for covering the practice of stone craft by an average craftsman’s family. Family Members : 4-6 Work force : Outsourced Labour locally (3-6 Nos.) Hours of work per day: 8-10 hours • Education: Master had taught the craft of Shilpkala to the whole village. The disciples became the new masters of their families. The family passes on their traditional knowledge of craft to the next generation. Children study in school to the age of 15 after which they work under their family elders for gaining skills in stone craft. 34

• Source of Raw Material: The Stone is procured from the quarry named ‘Krishna Salai. The rocks are transported to the ‘Mahalakshmi ’ industrial area (5 kms ) and are cut according to pre decided dimensions. The master himself chooses the rocks according to the sculpture ordered by the client.

Raw Material:

Stone– Sandstone, soft stone, Granite and marble, Brass, Silver, , Gold and Panch Loha (Bronze, Gun metal, Gold, silver, Copper), Fibre (Acrylic and Fibre reinforced plastic).

TOOLS The principal stone carving tools needed by the sculptor include the point chisel, tooth chisel (rake), the flat straight chisel and a hammer, all of varying sizes and weights. All are forged from high carbon steel and tempered for strength. The point removes the primary bulk material and comes in three sizes, small, medium and large. All taper down to a four-sided point and the thickness, or size of the point, will be determined by its heaviness. The smaller the size, the finer or lighter the point. The tooth chisel or rake, for the second stage of removal, is a flat straight chisel with slightly beveled teeth. It is available in four basic widths, the smallest having four teeth, the next five teeth, the next six teeth, and the largest having eight teeth. The tooth chisel is principally used in the geometric reduction of a larger piece of stone. The flat straight chisel is the finishing tool used before the final abrasive finishing, rasping, and sanding. It has a straight edge with a slight bevel of possibly 30° and is available in three sizes, small, medium, and large.

There are also specialty tools which are not normally used in standard carving but by intermediate and advanced carvers for added assistance in multiple projects. They include:the diamond shaped point, used for parting ferrules width-wise (In stone carving there are no “v” or veining tools as in wood carving; points do this job.);and the rondel, a rounded curved tool used for concave carving; the cutting edge is a round bevel; Stone carving hammers come in three weights and are made of soft iron, so the percussion is easier on stone, tool, and user. The sizes of the heads are: 1 pound used for small detail work, 1½ pounds for the most common type of carving, and 2 pounds for larger carving. The handles are heavy strength, the hammer heads attached to the handle through a center hole in the head with several steel wedges ensuring the fit. Unless you are very muscular, the 1½ pound hammer is the tool of choice. Pneumatic tools, composed of a handpiece and the pneumatic tool and used with an air compressor, can reduce bulk material in about a third of the time standard handheld tools require. Common shapes of the cutting ends of the pneumatic tools are: points, rakes, and straight chisels, and in wood carving are short bent, straight chisel, gouge, fishtail, and parting tool.

• Clients: Donors of temples belonging to the following states, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Orissa Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan and Gujarat. • Custom: Ladies are not allowed to work on the idols as they are deities. The task is divided among the artisans according to the process (Cutting, Drawing, rough finishing, final finishing). Duration of Sculpting: 2weeks – 2 months and also up to 9 months in some cases (Subjected to scale, amount of detailing). Tradition, culture and values represent Shivarapatna which is synonymous with the word sculpture and currently with about 700 members of 300 families are engaged in stone craft. The sculptors of Shivarapatna in Karnataka keep alive the 1,000-year-old artistic tradition. Shivarapatna is a unique village in the country which has been made into a traditional sculpture centre. Shivarapatna is also renowned for its metal casting (Pancha Loha, an alloy of copper, zinc, lead, silver, and gold). Deities and warriors of Chalukyan Period are the main source of inspiration for Shivarapatna sculptures. It is believed that the Shilpi’s, sculptors, of Shivarapatna are descendants of the craftsmen who constructed the temples of Belur, Hampi and Hoskote.

DESIGN PROCESS 1 Banana fibre craft (Bags range)

Justification: We have chosen bags as our product range for craft cluster project in order to make the craftsmen

understand of what they are capable to make with their current resources and skills for better output. Craftsmen were familiar with the techniques, material and resources used in making bags. Making it our strength we gave them designs which were feasible and commercially viable; not only that, we also experimented to fusing fabric with fiber to make bags ergonomically worthy. We gave them designs of a whole range of bags including duffle bag, backpack, messenger bag,shoulder bag, tote bag, side bag and wristlet.

Story Board (consisting , Theme. Mood. Color)THEME: ORGANIC It indicates more of environment friendly and sustainable designs which are gentle to the skin as well as environmental, creating a chic statement and elegant look. flexible blend craft fibrous overlapping connecting structured Story: Cocooning The story line indicates the protective and sensitive nature.

Color palatte: More of winter neutrals,earthy ,calm,sooothing colors. Beige, brown, blue, fibrous shades and multiple neutral colors.

Bags with description: DESIGN (i.)

by Anchal Bathla

Backpack: a bag that is supported by the shoulders with double handles and lies across the back. Backpacks are supported on either one or both shoulders.

Doodlings

Final Product

Rendering-

COSYINGRaw material: 400 Wages- 200 ( 100/day) Total cost: Rs. 600

DESIGN (ii.)

by Apoorva Singh

Shoulder bag: any bag with a shoulder strap. Wristlet - a clutch shaped bag that comes with an attached leather or bracelet-looking strap allowing you to hold your bag and dance freely.

Doodlings

Final Product

Rendering-

COSTINGRaw material: 300 Wages: 200 (100/day) Total cost: Rs. 500

DESIGN- (iii.)

by Kanchan Singh

A new concept of bag drives in the form of a sling cum backpack. Inspired from a pattern of potli bag. Blue straps and blue lining gives it a lethal combinations of classy yet stylish making it ideal for college girls.

Doodlings

Final Product

Rendering-

COSTINGRaw material: 440 Wages: 200 (100/day) Total cost: Rs. 640

DESIGN- (iv.)

by Manoj Kumar Shukla

Messenger Bag: A bag with a long strap to be worn across the body that winds around the chest resting the bag on the

lower back. Materials used in messenger bags are often more durable and water-resistant than traditional bags. Messenger bags are often used by bicycle messengers, though they are increasingly becoming an urban fashion icon.

Doodlings

Final Product

Rendering-

COSTINGRaw material: 300 Wages: 200 (100/day) Total cost: Rs. 500

DESIGN- (v.)

by Nivedita Nandini

Duffel Bag: A large bag usually used for travel or sports. The name comes from Duffel, a town in Belgium where the

thick cloth used to make the bag originated. Duffel bags are often used by sailors, and are sometimes called sea bags in this capacity.

Doodlings

Final Product

Rendering-

COSTINGRaw material: 440 Wages: 200 (100/day) Total cost: Rs. 640

DESIGN- (vi.)

by Shraddha Andani

Tote Bag: A medium to large bag with two straps. Sometimes sold as a reusable shopping bag, this bag can carry anything that is too large for a common handbag – also called a ‘Shopper’. Wristlet - a clutch shaped bag that comes with an attached leather or bracelet-looking strap allowing you to hold your bag and dance freely.

Doodlings

Final Product

Rendering-

COSTINGRaw material: 440 Wages: 200 (100/day) Total cost: Rs. 640

ARTISAN DETAILS

Artisan 1Name: Sophiya Religion: Muslim Language: Fluent- Urdu( read , write, speak) Bit Kannada, hindi, English Home town- Anegundi Schooling till 7th Family: sister , brother. father, mother Age- 16 yrs Work Experience- 1 yr. Earning- 2000/month (excluding sunday)

Artisan 2Name: Tabassum Religion: Muslim Language: Fluent- Urdu( read , write, speak) Bit Kannada, hindi, English Home town- Permekarhar Schooling till 10th Family: brother. father, mother Age- 16 yrs Work Experience- 1 yr. 10 months Earning- 2500/month (8-9 bags /month)

Artisan 3Name: Shajida Religion: Muslim Language: Fluent- Urdu( read , write, speak) Bit Kannada, hindi, English Home town- Anegundi Schooling : IInd year from ARTS Family: sister. father, mother Age- 19 yrs Work Experience- 1 yr. Earning- 3000/month (8-9 bags /month) Artisan 4Name: Reshma Religion: Muslim Language: Fluent- Urdu( read , write, speak) Bit Kannada, hindi, English Home town- Anegundi Schooling till 10th Family: sister. father, mother Age- 22 yrs Work Experience- 1 yr. 10 months Earning- 3000/month (8-9 bags /month) Artisan 4Name: Radha Religion: Hindu Language: Fluent- Hindi( read , write, speak) Bit Kannada, English Home town- Anegundi Schooling till 10th Family: brother, sister. father, mother Age- 25yrs Work Experience- 3yr. 10 months Earning- 4500/month (10-12bags /month) 53

DESIGN PROCESS 2 Stone craft

(Tabletop accessories range)

Justification: We have chosen range of table top accessories as our product range for craft cluster project in order to

make the craftsmen understand of what other than religious idols could be done to commercialize and to earn money in less time with their current resources and skills for the optimum utilization of their talent and time. Craftsmen were familiar with the techniques, stones, tools used for soft stone carving which we used for our project because of its easy availability and affordability. Making it our strength we gave them designs which were easy to carve and useful for daily purposes. We gave them designs of a whole range of table top accessories including ash tray, salt and pepper containers, flower vase, napkin holder, candle stand, and showpiece (decorative).

Story Board ( Theme, Story, Color board) THEME: CRUDE

The theme covrs the unrefined shapes/forms and raw state of cobbles. raw concrete crude

enigma unrefined concrete

Story: Concrete Enigma Story line indicates the concrete and enigmatic designs which are unprocessed and yet serves utility..

Color palatte-

Acromatic Scheme. use of greys and black to justify the mysterious and acromatic effect.

Products with description: DESIGN (i.)

by Anchal Bathla

Candle stand: A great way to create soft mood lighting that can help establish a tranquil, meditative atmosphere

Doodlings

Final Product

Technical Drawing of a product-

Rendering (Software)

Costing:

Raw Material: 200 Wages: 200 (100 /day) Total Cost: Rs. 400

DESIGN- (ii.)

by Apoorva Singh

Napkin holder: Napkin holders are used for keeping napkins for dine purposes.

Doodlings

Final Product

Technical Drawing of a product-

Rendering (Software)

Costing:

Raw Material: 300 Wages: 200 (100 /day) Total Cost: Rs. 500

DESIGN- (iii.)

by Kanchan Singh

Refreshment containers: These are used for dine purposes, contains refreshments..

Doodlings

Final Product

Technical Drawing of a product-

Rendering (Software)

Costing:

Raw Material: 200 Wages: 200 (100 /day) Total Cost: Rs. 400

DESIGN- (iv.)

by Manoj Kumar Shukla

Showpiece: A way to freshen up your mood and amuse you with the forms and textures and is kept in the centre.

Doodlings

Final Product

Technical Drawing of a product-

Rendering (Software)

Costing:

Raw Material: 200 Wages: 200 (100 /day) Total Cost: Rs. 400

DESIGN- (v.)

by Nivedita Nandini

Ash tray: A table top accessory consisting of a bowl/plate like structure for dropping smoke ash.

Doodlings

Final Product

Technical Drawing of a product-

Rendering (Software)

Costing:

Raw Material: 250 Wages: 200 (100 /day) Total Cost: Rs. 450

DESIGN- (vi.)

by Shraddha Andani

Flower vase: an accessory to make attractive ambience with fragrance of fresh flower and luring forms.

Doodlings

Final Product

Technical Drawing of a product-

Rendering (Software)

Costing:

Raw Material: 300 Wages: 200 (100 /day) Total Cost: Rs. 500

ARTISAN DETAILS

Name: Vishnu Age: 19 yrs. Religion: Hindu Home town: Kadirampur Family: mother, father, brother Schooling: 10th pass Family business: Stone carving in Chennai ( with technical advanced machine)

CONCLUSION The Banana Fibre and stone Craft was very instructive for us. Various incidents has offered us opportunities to learn and develop myself in many areas. we gained a lot of experience, especially in banana fibre product manufacturing field and in transportation.A lot of the tasks and activities that I have worked on during our cluster are familiar with what things related to our studies.we worked in many areas(mohallas) where we did different work with same material. This gave us the chance to find out which areas where process carried out and artisian make the product.By developing all the design of banana fibre and stone product. We had to do lots of planning where I had to find the best way of presenting an event. I learned many things about manufacturing the handicraft product.The Cluster was also good to find out what our strengths towards traditional handicraft. This helped us to increase knowledge regarding what are skills and knowledge we all had improve in the coming time. It would be better that the knowledge level of the language is sufficient to contribute fully to projects. However I could perform certain tasks in presentation better by practicing more.At last this cluster has given me new insights and motivation to pursue a career in ecological wayin further aspect.And we would like thank all the individual to helped us out during this period of time and in the complition of this project.

GLOSSARY • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Munificent: generous, bountiful, open handed Gratitude: thanks, appreciation Encroach: a person's territory, rights, personal life Opulent: luxurious, lavish Pilgrim: devotee, believer Caravans: mobile homes, camper Patronage: sponsorship, backing, funding Pinnacle: peak, height Sericulture: the production of silk and the rearing of silkworms Fascinating: captivating, interesting Intricate: complex, complicated Havoc: destruction, damage Wrought: beaten out or shaped by hammering Pillaged: rob a (place) using violence, especially in wartime. Massacre: an indiscriminate and brutal slaughter of many people Imperial: relating to an empire Monolithic: formed of a single large block of stone Pavilion: a building or similar structure used for a specific purpose, in particular Bastion: a projecting part of a fortification built at an angle to the line of a wall UNESCO: United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. BCE: Before the Common Era Siege: a military operation in which enemy forces sur round a town or building Torrent: a strong and fast-moving stream of water or other liquid

• • • • • • • •

Fortification: a defensive wall or other reinforcement built to strengthen a place against attack Mandapam: a temporary platform set up for weddings and religious ceremonies Entrepreneur: a person who sets up a business or busi nesses, taking on financial risks in the hope of profit. NGO: non-governmental organization Lattice: a structure consisting of strips of wood or met al crossed and fastened together with square or diamond-shaped spaces left between. Souvenir: a thing that is kept as a reminder of a person, place, or event Hereditary: conferred by or based on inheritance Feasible: possible and practical to do easily or conveni ently

Bibliography

Book- HAMPI (Discover the splendours of vijayanagar) 1. http://www.ecogreenunit.org/projects/banana_fibre_products.htm 2. http://www.quantumcatdesigns.com/Fabrics-Banana-Fiber.aspx 3. https://www.google.co.in/search?q=properties+of+stones&biw=1366&bih=643&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=U1 uDVPfIMsi6Ubi_hOgP&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&dpr=1#tbm=isch&q=hampi+rocks&imgdii=_ 4. http://blinkoink.blogspot.in/2012/11/project-hampi.html 5. https://www.google.co.in/search?q=products+of+kishkinda+trust+anegundi&biw=1366&bih=667&tbm=isch&tbo=u& source=univ&sa=X&ei=5ORsVM_OA9GguQSvr4GACw&ved=0CCgQsAQ#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=efuu7kVsd6Lk2 M%253A%3BMQx0lCn4UMs9qM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F3.bp.blogspot.com%252F-9aauJXpWTug%252FULXO9M kPixI%252FAAAAAAAAAY0%252F1JVy2_S2KFU%252Fs1600%252Fhampi1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fblinkoink. blogspot.com%252F2012%252F11%252Fproject-hampi.html%3B1600%3B800 6. http://www.nift.ac.in/ccini.html 7. http://www.stoneproject.org/7-stone-carving-tools-introduction.html 8. http://www.indianmirror.com/crafts/crafts.html

Group Members

Anchal Bathla Content Writer, Text editor

Manoj Kumar Shukla Software Rendering, Product touch-up

Apoorva Singh Content Writer, Text editor

Kanchan Singh Cluster Photography, Sketching

Nivedita Nandini Documentation, Product touchup

Shraddha Andani Documentation, Product Photography