Conscious Fashion For Dummies - The Conscious Fashion Hub by Shreyoshi mitra

let’s join the revolutionary path of consciousness !

Aurthor - Uma Prajapati, Shreyoshi Mitra, Geeta, Illustrated by Shreyoshi Mitra This edition published in 2020 by Conscious Fashion Hub, Upasana Conscious Fashion ISBN X XXX XXXXXX Printed in xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sustainable development is the develipoment that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generation to meet their own needs ! ---------------united nations’ world commision on environmental development

FOREWORD

FASHION AND FACTS

- How has fashion become brothersome for the present ? - What is fast fashion and how smart has it been ?

INDIAN PERSPECTIVE

- Indian perspective of fashion looking from within ! - Cotton Farmers suicide and fashion today ! - Organic cotton enough ? - Ethical production and the beauty in it.

CONSUMER AND CONSCIOUS CLOTHING - Buy not to buy - conscious shopping - Slow fashion - Fair trade fashion

- Affordable and conscious -Value for my money - Second hand/Drifting/Swapping/Renting clothes - Using reusing recycling

WORK AND LIFESTYLE

- Conscious clothing to conscious living - Power of conscious consumerism - Clothes managing stress --chemical deposit on our skin through clothes - Healing textile - Indian culture and holistic clothing in today’s world.

TEN TIPS FOR BEING SUSTAINABLY FASHIONABLE

UPASANA AS GUIDE

FOREWORD Every morning the very first decision that most of us make it about the clothes that we would be wearing that day. If our clothes are so important to us, can we make them relevant and sustainable? Conscious Fashion for Dummies is a testament to a sustainable life. It is the need of the hour. As a consumer, we regain power in every purchase when we are aware of the consequences and conditions. That is when we become advocates in other areas of our lives. Conscious Fashion for Dummies is packed with salient tools and information for living a conscious life. Featuring sections of fashion, food, and work/lifestyle to help consumers live an aware life and convert our beliefs into reality. The book talks about what fast fashion has done to the world and each member of the supply chain, especially farmers in India. It is a call for action to transform one of the most polluting industries on earth— fashion—into a force for good. This book will guide consumers and make them aware of how their clothes and present lifestyles are harming the planet, whose aftermath only the current or the future generation will face. Sustainability and lifestyle are not mutually exclusive, they can live in harmony. We are not too late to start the conversation about our choices about -how our products are produced, consumed, and discarded—to fit with the world we live in today.

FACTS How has fashion become brothersome for the present age ? Fashion has always evolved through different iconic events for decades. It has influenced and changed the way people have dressed, it has been a medium of expression for ages and a tool for revolution. From the European era, the elites have been setting trends that were followed by others. Postindustrialization this trend-setting effect on the mass population surged as clothing became cheaper and more accessible. The inception of

fast fashion came about with it. It has done great contribution to bring good clothing to sectors across humanity, it has brought equality amongst humanity. There are poor and rich and both can wear good clothes today which wasn’t the case before. Fast fashion has artificially lowered the price and it has become greed-centric. So, on one hand, it has brought equality but also an environmental threat to the entire planet. Even so, it has pressurized

communities like farmers by not paying them enough and forcing them to use genetically modified seeds to fasten their production. Fast fashion has been successful in hiding its dark side to people and it has been a bothersome topic at present. Millennials and aware consumers have started to ask questions about fairer and ethicality to these companies. These brands have done a great job of bringing equality but it has harmed the earth along its path. They have overdone their practice at a huge cost. Fast fashion has deluded people to buy aimlessly, people can only buy 3 ethical clothing items rather than 20 cheaper and unethical ones. This artificial equality brought about by fast fashion has killed us and the sense of living in a very immediate society, which in short is a kind of a drugged life. Consumers’ capacity to reflect on their choices has received a beating since they don’t have control over it. Hence, don’t have control over their own life showcasing that they aren’t conscious which is a frightening agenda. Fast fashion has also threatened creativity at large. Since these brands only rip off designs from the runway, it has raised questions for true

globally and it takes around 7571 liters of water to make a typical pair of jeans. To explain the gravity of this, if consumers buy one less pair of jeans then 1500 people can have one day of drinking water supply. Further, the average consumer buys 60% more pieces of clothing than 15 years ago. This behavior is completely pointless and has made consumers blind.

creativity amongst designers. Usually, there are computers and machines which copy and replicate patterns. These machines eventually get the pattern lasered onto the fabric which increases the rate of production. Fast fashion has caused a lot of problems. As per the study, the clothing industry produces 20% of the world’s wastewater and 10% of global carbon emissions – more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Textile dyeing is the second-largest polluter of water 14

According to a report by Quantis, an environmental consultancy, global apparel, and footwear industries account for an estimated 8% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions. Fast fashion has also led to water pollution, the release of harmful chemicals to the water bodies has been one of the main reasons for the depletion of groundwater level. The textile industry alone has been the 2nd largest pollutant for clean water all around the world. The Citarum River in Indonesia is a visible example of how textile dyeing has destroyed the local water solely. Lately, the concern of microfibre or microplastic has been worrisome. Cheaply made fabrics have plastics present in nylon, polyester, and spandex are the contributing factors for the same. More than 70 % of fast fashion clothing ends up in never-ending clothing pits. Since these fabrics’ core is synthetic, derived from fossil fuels so when it ends up in the clothing pits it will not decay, hence becoming non-biodegradable. These factors should be very bothersome for not only environmental activists but consumers in general.

What is fast fashion and how smart has it been ? Fast fashion is an approach to the design, creation, and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers. An approach to the design, creation, and marketing of clothing fashions that emphasizes making fashion trends quickly and cheaply available to consumers. - Merriam Webster. Fast fashion works on a lucrative business model, which focuses on the fast and growing demand of the consumers which they have only created. They have intelligently advertised a certain kind of lifestyle that consumers should and can have by pricing products cheaply. Fast fashion has instilled the notion of “see now, buy now !” which is dangerous. Driven by digital catwalks, online flash sales, and click-to-purchase options on social media, fast-fashion sales have grown 20% over the last three years. With brands accelerating the timescale from design to shelf, the need to expedite shipping has also grown. Business strategists and experts map out the best possible scenarios which would increase their sales, they have invested highly in technology and human resources for online and offline shops. Fast fashion clothing is priced very cheaply which has led us to misjudge the relationship between quality and price. When we witness such pricing we tend to believe it is the actual cost of the product but in reality, it

is not. Since such companies are not transparent with their information consumers tend to be unaware of which part of the supply chain is getting affected the most. From what we pay at the counters of shops 42% of it goes to the shop, 21% to the brand, 19% to the factory, 16%to the government, and about 2% to 5% to the workers who are the main heroes of the supply chain. The fast fashion industry has been greatly influenced by the industrial revolution. Machines replaced labor as the main source of manufacturing. High scale manufacturing projects are outsourced to 3rd world countries like India, Bangladesh, Indonesia, and many more. This adds to the vicious cycle of making cheap clothes at a cheap rate. Since the quality of these clothing downgrades, they become disposable easily after a couple of washings, which means it urges consumers to buy more clothes. It put tremendous pressure on the entire team of designers and manufacturers to meet this undying demand for clothing. But without thinking twice fast fashion can be applauded for its duality where at one end it has brought about equality for its consumers and the elites of the society and on the other exploiting the poorest of the poor. With the help of the internet and social media fast fashion has seen a rise in the past 20 years. The Internet has made fast clothing more accessible to consumers than it was previously. 15

PERSPECTIVE Indian perspective of fashion looking from within ! Go to your cupboard and check the tags of your clothes. Most of them will have - Made in India tags on them. Isn’t it amusing to witness India’s contribution to the fashion industry in the 21st century? India employs about 54 million people in craft, textiles, and fashion. It supplies the largest human resource for the fashion industry. Indian perspective in the fashion industry has become more relevant than ever before. It has always played a very crucial role in fashion as it has been a pioneer in the textile industry. India is known for its rich variation in textiles. It has been exporting textiles and skills for a long time. Historically, India has been in the textile industry.

But it is sad to observe that a country of such stature in the fashion industry has been facing the highest suicidal rate amongst cotton farmers. Daily many handlooms are closing. The land is getting barren because of the usage of genetically modified seeds that exploit the soil leaving it weak and farmers are losing jobs and lands. As people are getting more aware and there is a rise of a new luxury or slow fashion, India will play a huge role in the coming years, as India is culturally rich in textiles which have taken over hundreds of years of skill honing. The number of artisans and skilled professionals that India has, no other nation can acquire in today’s day and age. Fashion has become an industrial commodity. It doesn’t matter

to the manufactures where it has been produced. The important factor for them is whether the garments are cheap. Fashion at the present day and age is apocalyptic. Fast fashion has brought very affordable clothing with the least price to billions of people on the planet today, which is remarkable. It has helped build confidence for billions of people. Despite this or maybe because of this created wealth is in the hands of only a few. It has created poverty for the workers and caused environmental disasters. This has caused Indian handlooms to shut down since production with these looms is slow. India’s contribution to the fashion industry is very big, and it can have its conscious fashion revolution. India can make a huge impact. If half of India stops purchasing $2 garments then a major change will take place. If consumers start using India’s textile variations and craftsmanship, then it would generate a few million jobs. Even the international luxury market has been looking at India for its marvelous textiles such as Ikats, Jamdani, silk, organic cotton, Khadi, and many more.

take care and respect these resources of India or it would be a loss for the industry and our country. It is not about slow fashion or sustainable fashion but it is the future of sustainable luxury, which is at stake. We can still wear our grandparent’s old Jamdani or silk sarees or dhotis. This shows how sustainable Indian fabrics are. Scores of ateliers and export houses act as middlemen between the brands and highly skilled artisans, while also providing services like design, sampling, and garment production.

Indian dimension is very essential when we focus on conscious fashion, which is caring and less exploitative. It is high time that consumers 17

Cotton farmers suicide and fashion today ! ore than 270,000 Indian cotton farmers have killed themselves since 1995. Campaigners believe that one of the contributing factors is the high price of genetically modified seeds flooding the market, which has put pressure on poorly paid growers forcing many into a cycle of unmanageable debt. This has been a concern for the Indian government and the fashion industry. India is the second-largest producer of cotton. The introduction of the genetically modified cotton seeds was thought to bring prosperity for the farmers but ironically it brought misery for them. These seeds produce cotton for a specific period. Which

eventually depletes the soil’s nutrition and leaves the soil in an unfit state to work on later. The use of these genetically modified cotton seeds has led to environmental concerns due to the additional use of pesticides and insecticides to support the growth of these seeds. Other factors like erratic rainfall, poor extended services of aids given by the government, dubious seed quality and lack of credit at reasonable rates, aggravate the situation for farmers who are not able to cover the increasing costs of production. Poor returns and debt cycles are thus driving cotton farmers to despair, and at times death. Farmers’ suicide has taught the world that clothing cannot be taken lightly. It is amusing to witness that the fashion industry doesn’t want to see the direct relationship between the introduction of genetically modified cotton seeds and cotton farmers’ suicide. The industry tends to forget that farmers are a crucial part of the supply chain. This was discovered (or disclosed?) by Uma Prajapati the founder of Upasana at a conference in Nagpur Cotton Research Institution. India is the largest producer of cotton and the crop is of significant importance to the economy. Closely woven into the cotton story is the fate of over 6 million small and marginal farmers who plant this crop annually. The issue of farmer suicide due to the introduction of GM cotton seeds is not only a concern for India but also

internationally. It is a human rights issue across the world since farmers no longer have access to the seeds they should have. They need to be reliant on GM seeds. It is alarming to notice how a multinational company has decided that the seed will be their business and not that of the farmers. These companies neither have any knowledge about the farmers’ conditions nor do they acknowledge how expensive their seeds are. In a country like India where the farmers are already poor and have a maximum land holding of 2-3 acres, how can these companies imagine that these farmers would be able to afford the seeds and its highly taxing pre-farming expenses? Cotton rates are internationally fixed. Farmers are vulnerable. Instead of being proud and happy about their crops, they can’t even afford to purchase cotton clothes for themselves. They wear polyester dhotis. It should be every consumer’s responsibility to support the remaining 3% of organic cotton supply in India. It is a battle that we are continuously fighting as we know we always need seeds to grow more seeds. Consumers’ choice of clothing can be a vehicle to fight against the GM cotton seeds by several multinational companies who have made a mockery and a business out of the farming industry.

Organic cotton enough ? Let’s do an activity check on the material used in the clothes that we are wearing right now. It can be polyester, cotton, climalite, or any other thing. But have we comprehended the consequences of our choices? The world needs to shift towards ecologically and financially sustainable cotton. It is not only for the farmers but also for the environment. We as consumers need to understand that for our joy others should not 22

shed tears. More than half of the (fashionable?) population has become a victim of fast fashion. Even though we buy organic it is usually chemically induced cotton (?), which is harmful to the planet. In contrast to that organic cotton uses very few chemicals. It is essential to unplug chemicals from our bodies. We take in chemicals in our food, medicine, and even our clothing. The fabric that we have on ourselves leaves an impact on our bodies. The consumption of organic cotton does good for the earth as it takes away the chemical exposure out of the land, water, and the seed. Organic cotton is not a one-point solution but it is a start. However, due to consumers, undying wants, organic cotton goes through an enormous amount of processing. There is a lot of chemical processing that is done for cotton after spinning, which is yarn dyeing, bleaching, and printing. There are a lot of chemicals that get added with time. Sometimes suppliers and brands tend to hide all the other additional chemical usage that goes into the production of organic cotton. The seed being organic is a brilliant start. Each step taken towards a conscious lifestyle should be appreciated, it is a difficult journey in the world of temptation. The textile industry is one of the most organized industries and to intervene and make a difference in it requires a huge effort. Everyone needs to appreciate it. We need to promote and build a society for

conscious living. One needs to learn to support every act of transformation rather than be a purist. Some of the consumers nowadays have taken the hypocritical pathway of being purists. It is good to ask questions regarding what fabric and what are the processes used in the fabric but at the same time discouragement for minute advancements need to be avoided. Sustainable fabric can be made out of banana, bamboo, silk, cotton, and many other things. Fabric is nothing more than converting fiber to textile and this process would create jobs. If manufacturers have managed to reduce the use of chemicals in the textile then one has been able to contribute. As consumers, we must be supportive, since it is a positive change of action. It is not only providing us with high-quality fabrics but also generating jobs and is communitycentric. It is advisable to purchase from such manufactures. However, for a country like India, the fabric must be cotton. Because it is an indigenous crop that has been growing in India for centuries. Fabrics can be made out of bamboo as well but the soil of India cannot support the growth of it. It is labor-intensive and along with that its current processing is very chemical centric. So regarding India cotton is a good idea, other countries have their expressions. Consumers should be accepting rather than be critical in approach. Sustainability can never flourish if we are critical.

Ethical production Who doesn’t like to be trendy? If we check our cupboard we would find at least 5 new season trends. But do we as consumers think about where they were made? Do we think about what happens when the clothes or accessories go out of trend? What happens to them when they are thrown in the bin? Most of us don’t bother to think about it. Ethical fashion is an umbrella term to describe a multitude of industry-wide components such as fashion design, production, retail, and purchasing. It covers a range of issues such as working conditions, exploitation, fair trade, sustainable production, the environment, and animal welfare. Consumer’s addiction to fast fashion has paved the pathway for the exploitation of farmers, tailors, and everyone else in the supply chain leaving a majority of the money to the seller. Some people pay a very steep price for the fast-moving trends of 24

fashion. Most garments are made in developing countries like India, China, Bangladesh, and others. These countries don’t have strict rules for workers’ safety, wage regulations, and even child protection. Workers work for hours without any break, children start working in these unhygienic places to earn money and help their families. This is the sweatshop model of working which is unethical and leads to low cost in production. At times workers are also cheated by their employers. Sustainable fashion is the future of slow luxury fashion in the world. It makes sure that the fabrics are organic and sustainable and manufacturers produce them ethically. Which includes giving up mass methods of production in favor of eco-friendly and cruelty-free alternatives. Fairtrade, equal wages, and abolishing forced labor. Ethical fashion looks after the farmers

and the garment workers stitching pieces together equally. The role of sustainable fashion in the ethical production of goods is very important. Since it prioritizes environmentally friendly practices throughout the production and makes products that have a lower carbon print. Which in turn would look into how these products are manufactured and how the supply chain members are working. Clothing is made through sustainable practices that reduce waste production and water consumption. It is made with the help of natural energy and reduces pollution. Consumers need to become more sensitive about their choices because there are other people, animals, and the environment who are suffering. Consumers’ choices can make a huge difference. If they stop purchasing from companies and brands who do not make sustainable and ethical products then the demand for the same will go down. Resulting in low levels of production and less harm to the

environment and people. Over the last decade, the industry has entered a remarkable period of upheaval, with major and small fashion brands alike giving up traditional methods of production in favor of ecofriendly and cruelty-free alternatives. The industry has already taken a step towards this revolution.

CONSUMER CONSCIOUS CLOTHING Buy not to buy - conscious shopping

Conscious clothing leads us to conscious fashion which leads us to conscious living. Most of the health problems that people have are because they do not live consciously. One can start with food, fashion, lifestyle, hobbies, or anywhere. We spend a

considerable amount of money on clothing every year across different cultures and geographical boundaries. India has 54 million people working in the craft, textile, and clothing sector and if this sector becomes conscious then the impact will be immeasurable. 27

Fashion has the power to change the world. It is a trillion-dollar industry and has been unfair to our people, communities, environment, and planet. The lockdown of COVID 19 has been a time to reflect on this. If one can make “shopping-clothes” a conscious act, we can build a conscious fashion community. India will see the transformation of millions of lives and will overcome poverty, inequality, disparity. Fashion can do it single-handedly. As consumers, if we take a call to do conscious shopping we will be surprised to see the magic unfold. Conscious shopping is a mindful act. We all need goods and services. Apart from that, we have an inbuilt nature which celebrates the beauty and loves to have something new every time. This is acknowledged as “retail therapy”. It works for some people and in some cases. Shopping is need-based. On another level, it has psychological, emotional, and healing qualities of it. How do we make shopping conscious? Very few amongst us have seen the true power of shopping and exercise the same consciously. When we buy products we are affecting lives around us. Do I buy Coca-cola or coconut water? Where does my money go? Does it go to the multinational company or does it go to local farmers? I decide as a consumer. Clothing is one of humanity’s primary needs. It is tied to beauty, vanity, feelings, who we are, and what we are projecting to be. In this primary need when we exercise our choice like do I want to 28

support my community, my people, my nation or support someone sitting in foreign lands who outsources the work to us and then sell it back to us making a huge amount of profit. This single nation engages the largest human resource in the sector of clothing. India has a cultural heritage of textile alive, school of printing, school of weaving, school of expression, and thoughts shown through textiles. Indian states have their own textile identities. They don’t replicate each other. Indian textiles have a unique personality even now when clothing has become industrial. When we talk about the Indian perspective, then conscious shopping becomes even more critical for us. Any choice we consciously make, like my clothes, will come from my state or my country or my people the choices are relevant. Shopping becomes conscious. Currently, we will focus on clothing but conscious shopping is sector-neutral space. Conscious shopping has people, communities, ecology, and the planet on its radar. It asks questions and makes decisions. When we become conscious of our shopping we indulge in talks, workshops, seminars, conferences, books and give a lot of outward expressions to this consciousness. Shopping per se is not bad, it is a part of life where one enjoys the joy of owning something new and beautiful to suffice their happiness. It is life’s energy which is in circulation which also gives us joy, beauty, sense of community, and happiness. It is

consumerism and overconsumption which have perverted our shopping tendencies. How have they done it? There are companies with marketing strategies to sell us discounted stuff throughout the year. By buying dumped and discounted items we are promoting poverty. We sign an MoU memorandum of understanding which says that it is ok for us that someone out of our sight lives a miserable life. How can we change it? Buying for us can be a celebration. Buying one good product and paying for it’s worth, from companies known for their ethical practices, meaningful things, supporting causes, and critical collaborations can create this celebration. It is our choice. Let’s make it conscious. Now that we have decided buying is not evil then how do we decide which brand to support? The world is flooded with millions of clothing brands. Thousands of design graduates pass out every year from Indian and international fashion schools. They need to serve this crowded fashion industry.

is trying to produce a good clothing line and a brand that takes ethical business and design to another level, go ahead and support. There is no thumb rule for supporting a particular brand. If one decides that production needs to be mindful and if beauty stops being skin deep and the whole process looks and feels equally beautiful because it has respected every single step of the production then the power of that beauty is immense and ocean deep. Pick a brand around you and support it. Your money will be well spent. Since we are speaking of money, why is conscious shopping so expensive? Experts believe that this is a myth. Conscious shopping is not elite or expensive. You can’t compare chalk and cheese OR Coca Cola and coconut. The possibility of making the correct choice while shopping exists with us all the time. Shopping can become conscious in every price segment. We need to reflect on this myth. Are we shying away from taking responsibility for our own decisions about shopping?

How does one make this scattered industry conscious? Who to support and on this slippery path of beauty and vanity? Start wherever you are. Look around. If there is a brand around you that is expensive, known glamorous, shows integrity and takes an ethical stand for business then support it. From buying a kurta in Khadi Gramodyog or local handloom weavers community to an NGO which 29

Slow Fashion Slow fashion is a phenomenon where textile is a celebration. It gives creatives, consumers, and entrepreneurs a platform where they can visualize the future of new-age luxury. Slow fashion has created jobs and preserved art, crafts, and textiles from different parts of the world. It has given farmers, weavers, dyers, printers, tailors, and embroiderers joy as they have not been exploited throughout their journey. Slow fashion is based on good design, good material, good finishing, and overall good quality as prerequisites. It is far away from the entire concept of fast fashion and the evil shackle of it. Slow fashion makes sure that every step of the garment or accessory manufacturing is nourished and well respected. It respects slow production schedules, fair wages, lower carbon footprint, and ideally aims at zero waste. It particularly focused on sustainability. Slow fashion revolts against the industrialization norms of fast production. Pre- industrialization clothing was produced locally and each step of its manufacturing starting from cottonseed production to textile development to the garment construction was done locally and mindfully. This current moment of slow fashion aims at bringing back the culture of respecting our clothing rather than being indulged in fast fashion. Lately, slow fashion has been receiving great 30

support from the world, consumers are becoming more conscious and are willing to purchase more ethical products. Slow fashion movement will not only help the environment and help us in understanding the philosophy of each garment but it would also help

so many people who are behind making a beautiful piece of art. It opposes the challenges that are surrounded by the social cultures of the industry. Slow fashion doesn’t support fast-paced production or clothes or having several collections in a single year. Whereas, fast fashion on the other hand has something new hanging in the window whenever we visit the shop. H&M and

Zara are two examples of fast fashion. Every weekend these shops will have a new product. Products are cheap and hence tempting for consumers to buy. These brands have unsavory products designed which have short lives as prerequisites. Consumers get lured by the temptations that are thrown on their faces by these companies. But they tend 31

to forget that these products may be cheap but are extremely harmful to the environment and the future generation would be the ones who will be suffering due to our actions. In India, we sell a kurta for ₹399 which is our version of fast fashion. The production cost of this kurta is ₹130 in which fabric, production processes like dyeing, printing, tailoring, finishing, and accessories have to be paid. How does anybody get paid? Since it is cheap, we tend to produce a lot. It’s a vicious cycle of endorsing poverty in our supply chain. Sometimes these products are designed to be on discount forever. Fast fashion is a vicious trap from which it is very difficult to come out. Slow fashion on the other hand opposes everything that fast fashion stands for. The textile and clothing industry has solely generated 1.7 billion tonnes of CO2 each year, along with that water and land are polluted by releasing highly toxic chemicals to produce raw materials for fast fashion garments. These toxic chemicals make the manufacturing process for raw materials faster which is the chief goal of the fast fashion industry. While following this consumerism based cycle it has caused nothing more than a disaster for the earth and we are facing its consequences currently. Each year around 80 billion new garments are produced and currently 80% of the same end up in incinerators landfill sites. Creating more garbage for the earth than it can take any more. A serious call of action must be taken 32

forward for the production control of these kinds of products. Pandemic - 2020 has already taught us that it is high time that we make changes in our lifestyle. It is the call of the hour to address the elephant in the room that we need to make conscious choices not only for ourselves but for the earth as well. Companies need to disclose what kind of environmental hazards it has. We as consumers should also acknowledge the fact that when we wear clothes made out of toxic chemicals we are also exposing our skin, which is the largest organ on the human body to it as well. Slow living and slow fashion is the future. Slow fashion requires equality, respect, and dignity for everyone. It creates integral beauty, not like the superficial aura that is supported by fast fashion. Slow fashion is a tool for everyone to acquire a higher purpose, power, and integrity.

Fair Trade Fashion Imagine working for 6-7 months dedicatedly on a project and have executed it remarkably. But when it comes to payment or the working condition for the same you don’t receive what you deserve. I’m sure it must make you feel various emotions like anger, despair, hysteria, and helplessness. This is exactly what happens to most of the workers in the clothing and textile industry which is extremely disheartening. And fast fashion has paved a route for such behavior in the industry towards its workers. The free-market capitalist system believes in the ideology of survival of the fittest, it surely dominates the

global economy. But at the same time, it has led to disaster for the workers who are linked in the supply chain. Greed amongst a few rich industrialists has put people’s lives at risk. This imbalance of power has led to the construction of the basic guidelines of the fair trade model. It makes sure that the wellbeing of the workers and the environment are taken into consideration. According to the World Fair Trade Organisation -WTFO, “Fair Trade is a trading partnership, based on dialogue, transparency, and respect, that seeks greater equity in international trade. It contributes to sustainable development by offering 33

better trading conditions to, and securing the rights of, marginalized producers and workers – especially in the South.” Fairtrade in fashion focuses on keeping the planet and people first before the products produced. It makes sure that everyone gets a fair deal on pricing and better working conditions. This is not only helpful for the craftsperson or the employees, it helps in developing communities and lives of people who are engaged in this industry. WTFO has postulated 10 principles of fair trade which are -

• Opportunities for Disadvantaged Producers • Transparency and Accountability • Fair Trade Principles • Fair Payment • Ensuring no Child Labour and Forced Labour • Commitment to NonDiscrimination, Gender Equity, and Women’s Economic Empowerment, and Freedom of Association • Ensuring Good Working Conditions • Providing Capacity Building • Promoting Fair Trade • Respect for the Environment

These principles create a primary structure which companies should follow, to not only help the workers But also aid itself in becoming a more transparent and respectful company in the eyes of its consumers and employees. Lately, consumers have witnessed the disasters that workers go through when making their clothing. They have started asking questions, regarding the company’s certification for fair trade. The harsh conditions of workers in the textile and clothing industry have come under the spotlight after the deadly Dhaka garment factory fire 2013. Big names in the fast fashion industry like Zara and h&m have played an important role in the terrible working conditions for their workers. Several other companies like Walmart and Big Bazar have also walked hand in hand to take part in the same. Fairtrade and ethical fashion are the primary principles for slow fashion. It takes care of the minute details of the garment manufacturer. Slow fashion aims to create more sustainable, durable, beneficial for the environment and humankind’s clothing, and the 10 principles for fair trade established by WTFO make sure that this happens eventually. Fairtrade fashion is fairly a new concept which certain companies are following. It is the responsibility of consumers to be aware of the story which is behind their garment. This not only makes fashion more personal but also makes the user acknowledge

the effort behind making the clothing. Our clothing should express our style, personality, and values. It is a fashion statement! As responsible consumers, we should be aware of the story behind the garment and how our actions are affecting them. Consumers can support workers by purchasing clothing from fair trade certified companies. For that, we need to educate ourselves and do substantial research before purchasing products from a certain brand. Fairtrade has increased awareness of processes involved in manufacturing and it has awoken communities, clients, and companies. By purchasing fair trade certified factory-made clothes we as consumers encourage in supporting sustainable livelihoods, safer working conditions, fair payments, and the much-needed transparency in the fashion industry. WTFO regulates whether brands are capable to receive the certification for fair trade industries based on the Guarantee System (GS). It is essential to impact the global textile industry because it plays a crucial role in the global economy. While doing so it influences the earth and the people involved in the supply chain. It is important to introduce ethical trading practices in the international market allowing consumers to purchase clothing that would guide the international textile trade towards being more transparent and contributing to the supply chain.

Affordable and Conscious – Value for my money 21st century has become extremely accelerated and due to this the accessibility for several cheap items are more convenient to not only acquire but also for our bank accounts. In the textile and fashion industry as well due to the excess demand and unnecessary oversupply of clothing has made the entire experience of retail very superficial. To suffice this demand and craziness amongst unaware consumers, industries have depleted the earth’s resources. The apparel industry consumes more energy than the aviation and shipping industry combined, accounting for 10 percent of the global carbon emissions. Chemicals from dyes make their way into the environment, polluting the air, water, and also harming marine life. The fashion industry produces 20 percent of wastewater. It is responsible for 8-10 percent of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions, $500 billion of value is lost every year due to clothing underutilization, and lack of recycling. Consumers have forgotten the meaning of conscious living and 36

thoughtful purchases. Today over 50 % of the world ‘s population is the middle class who are deciding the norms while lower-middle-class people are aspiring to come in this segment. This disparity of distribution of wealth has led to the celebration of cheap products. The concept of volume has become more important than quality. Fast fashion has made the quality of clothing cheaper while increasing the rate of production for the same. A few conscious clothing brands are coming up all over the world. They are trying to overcome the evils of bulk production, unfair trading policies, and redundant pricing of clothing which have been established by fast fashion brands. People believe that conscious clothing is expensive but in reality, we compare the pricing of such clothing with that of fast fashion. The main reason for the higher price rate for such clothing is due to the higher rather than inputs for each element of the clothing. We as consumers tend to forget that the clothing has been made in an ethical workplace, where fair

trade principles are maintained and each process of manufacturing does not harm the earth as fast fashion does. Due to this unconscious comparison by consumers has led them to believe that conscious clothing is for the elites of society. Consumers have become a part of the vicious cycle of quantity over quality. They can purchase a few clothing if they believe the clothing article is too expensive for them while remembering the fact that these clothes will last for a longer duration in comparison to their cheaper counterparts. Since there are not many conscious brands in the market is also another reason for a higher price range for clothing. It is still a niche in society. New technology can be developed to manufacture such clothing. Once conscious clothing comes under mainstream fashion the pricing will also get altered. As technology comes in which doesn’t harm the environment, then the scale will also change and niche pricing will also disappear. Collective mindset asking for goods with greater value and no exploitation will bring in this change. As consumers, we must educate ourselves and become a person with a greater honor who considers the harm that the fashion industry has brought to the world. And by also understanding that there is no need of being selfish and it is high time that we analyze how our decisions are impacting the world. Consumers should understand the concept of

value for money. Acknowledging the fact the cheaper clothing is not fair. Along with that, consumers need to become more knowledgeable regarding the details that have been put into these garments which make it even more special than it already is. Consumers from different parts of the world can opt for their indigenous fabrics and artisans craftsmanship which is organically and ethically produced to make their garment. For example, India has khadi, jute, artisan, handmade products, homegrown produce, and handloom fall in this category. There is value for money in these options. These choices might not be available in abundance in western countries, but if you think wisely and wish for a better world for the future it is our utmost actions that would help it to become one. Conscious fashion brands may seem to be a step towards the future of fashion. And surely sustainability is the future of luxury. This community of conscious consumers and manufacturers are the soldiers for the war that we are currently facing due to the greedy measures taken by fast fashion. There are several other ways by which we can become more conscious of it, maybe by renting/swapping or thrifting clothes, or by buying selective clothing from a conscious clothing brand and wearing them several times. It is essential to remember that a small step could help the world to become a better place.

Second hand/thrifting/ swapping/renting clothes Using a metal or bamboo straw instead of plastic or buying bamboo brushes instead of the plastic one has become a trend for millennials. But most of them aren’t aware that if they continue to buy products from huge fast fashion brands then their efforts of being sustainable goes in vain. Sustainable clothing brands have been getting a lot of attention lately but it is not possible for people who live on a budget to be able to purchase clothes from such brands regularly even though they believe in wearing the clothing several times. As human beings we seek shopping as a form of therapy and for many buying clothes from such brands is impossible. Renting/swapping/thrifting secondhand clothes may be one of the most effective solutions to such a problem. It allows consumers to enjoy the adrenaline rush that one gets when they buy something new but at the same time, they take a step towards protecting the earth. Renting clothes simply refers to leasing a certain clothing article for the number of days that you need and returning it in the same condition it may also offer a monthly subscription. Swapping is a basic transaction of one 39

piece of clothing with another, it takes us to the time when the barter system was going on. Thrifting is the careful use of money to purchase secondhand goods at a reasonably cheaper price. It is a new concept for the eastern countries but for the western countries it is not so. However, it has recently gained a lot of attraction. Consumers are becoming conscious even though they are on a budget they are trying to create less clothing in landfills, less pollution - less emission of carbon footprint, and less resource wastage. Consumers who take part in renting/swapping or thrifting play an important role in production management. Shortly, this kind of clothing purchase will double in the next five years, reaching $51 trillion. “Second hand is in !” When it comes to circular fashion it is key that we extend the life cycle of garments that are still good to wear. Being a part of this revolutionary moment of second-hand clothing is not going to eradicate the evils that fast fashion has brought upon us but it is surely a step towards a better future. However, for the eastern countries, this revolution is taking its own sweet time. Buying or wearing secondhand clothing which is not within the family boundaries is looked down upon. In western countries, there are many thrifting and rental clothing stores. Namely - Rent the Runway Unlimited, Gwynnie Bee, New York & Company Closet, Tulerie, Rainey’s 40

Closet for rental clothing companies and Designer Renaissance, Hip Zipper, My Sister’s Closet, goodwill for thrift stores. In India, this concept is a cultural taboo. Second-hand clothing is associated with economically backward downtrodden families. This image does not help in the noble concept of supporting second-hand clothing. However, there is a new market for people who are interested in secondhand clothing in India, especially for the younger generation. There are several online services available on Instagram which look into the urge of thrifting naming a few like - mixnonveg (Niks Mix), Bodements, ikimi, original thrifter, shopatrumi and many more. Rental clothing has received more attraction from the public. Flyrobe, SwishList, Wrapd, LibeRent, Klozee, The Clothing Rental are a few popular rental services available in India. But we can surely commit to the fact that India’s next generation is becoming more adventurous as they are venturing towards this direction. Even though it hasn’t come into the mainstream but it is fighting against the taboo of second-hand clothing. Auroville is an experimental township in India, has taken the idea of secondhand clothing to another dimension. They have introduced a store called a free store for its residents. The free store is a store where things are free. A descendant of early Auroville’s barter and exchange system, the Freestore

now offers a range of new and preloved clothes, crockery, books, and music to any Aurovilian who needs, yes, for free. Customers choose what they want, leave their name and a list of items taken, say thanks, and walk out the door. The place is a blessing for many of the Aurovilians who live, as honorary voluntary workers, on very basic maintenance and can ‘goshop’ this way. The future of secondhand clothing might be this and it can be available everywhere in the

world. Consumers need to open up their horizons of imagination and take second-hand clothing to another level. Because these are products which are already produced and are available, it is our choice to give second-hand clothing another meaning and help in the production management of clothes. This will make manufacturers think twice before producing more goods and exploiting the earth and their workers than they are already.

Reusing / recycling Indians have always been progressive, they have been practicing recycling and upcycling of clothes and other goods before it started getting massive attention from the western world. “Disposable“ has not been a part of Indian culture. Indians are known for using vegetable covers to make homemade beauty products to even recycle old fabrics to make quilts. Lately, due to the environmental awareness consumers and designers have started to make upcycling a trend. It is not only fun and creative but also helps in reducing clothing from the neverending landfills. Clothing recycling has also been a part of the clothing and the textile industry. Entrepreneurs have witnessed business opportunities to generate wholesome revenues. There is a huge potential in recycling the post-industrial waste. About 80% of the clothing that is thrown away has the potential to have 42

a second life. Whereas, only 25% at present is recycled. When consumers do their annual wardrobe cleanse a certain thing should be kept in mind. Clothes that the consumers feel like discarding they should segregate it into three parts. Firstly out of trend, then drags and fibers. Out of trend clothing can easily be given a second life without thinking twice. They can be given for charity, thrift rented out, or even be kept back in the wardrobe and worn when it comes back in trend. Fashion trends are like a cycle that comes back again and again - retro. Ragged clothing articles can be recycled to be used on new clothing giving them the properties of being decorative and functional at the same time. While the rest can be recycled and by giving it back to the clothing industries or NGOs working for the wellbeing of

the clothing industry. So that they can convert it into a new product. This can happen by breaking down the clothing article to fibers and then making something new out of it. Or be used for household activities which are very common in India. And lastly, fibers can be directly used by consumers as cushion insulators or fillers. Consumers should go bizarre and think of new ideas to make full use of it. Or it can be donated to charities as well and they would do their wonders with it. Re-wearing old clothing articles should be promoted so that consumers don’t shy away from it. India has always supported recycling and upcycling activities in their textiles and crafts like Kantha from Bengal and paper mache

art from Jammu and Kashmir. The journey of upcycling and recycling is not foreign to Indians and people all over the world. It is high time that consumers join hands to make a visible difference. Indians are progressive where recycling is concerned. We don’t throw things. “Disposable” has not been a part of our culture. We store even packing materials for the products. The second hand is not our expression but we are thrifty and hence recycling gets boosted. India doesn’t yet have landfills as a show of our wealth. But can recycling be a solution for our planet? No, it can’t be. We can’t promote fast fashion because we have a culture of reusing and recycling. One checkpoint is not enough to fight this.

LIFESTYLE Conscious clothing to conscious living Since the time we are born on this beautiful earth, we have been responsible for every step of our life. Living consciously is all about taking full control of oneself, it might be spiritually or physically. It makes us think regarding our decisions rather than making them without thinking twice. Being conscious makes us realize that the life that we want rather than the life that has been commercially instilled in our brains. Industrialists all over the world have formulated a certain kind of lifestyle that people should lead so that they

can make money out of it. We have been advertised for “what is good and bad for us’’ since the time we were born by intelligent and crude industrialists. While in reality every mass commercialized act that we make as consumers have taken part in affected our environment and our body wrongly. When plastic was invented it was commercialized to be a revolutionary product, yes it has made our lives easier but at the same time, it has been the world’s largest pollutant in the 21st century.

It is our individual choices that can make a difference to the world. The fashion industry is the world’s 2nd largest polluting industry. Various fashion brands have more than 3 to 4 collections in a completely unnecessary year. These fast fashion brands have deluded their consumers to believe that there is not only a need to buy so many clothes but they have also not been transparent about how these garments are produced. We have been living an easy life on autopilot. However, it is not easy to break out of our regular live routine and start a new one. The transition to having an ethical and conscious life will be a long process that might take years. Certain small changes like in our food, lifestyle, or clothing will eventually lead us to conscious living. Most of us are ignorant about clothing but the matter of fact is that it occupies a lot of time and space in our lives. It is the first decision that you make in the morning when you head out. 30% of our money is spent on clothing and hence making clothing conscious will surely take care of one-third of our lifestyle. This will also impact our community positively. United Nations Office for Partnerships (UNOP) has initiated the Conscious Fashion Campaign engaging global industry events to commit to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals. The initiative champions fashion as an influential sector to address the world’s most pressing issues and lead a future that leaves no one behind. The campaign is 46

dedicated to driving change through advocacy, education, and engagement of industry stakeholders to create a sustainable future for all. Consumers who want to make a difference in the world would participate in activities and platforms like this and follow their guidelines. These actions are the first steps to leading a more conscious life and taking control over one’s life. Aspiring changemakers can start their journey by making small gestures suggested by the United Nation Sustainable development goals for the #ActNow for Zero Waste Fashion campaign like • Curb your consumption. Consider whether you need another pair of jeans, a new t-shirt or a pair of sandals. Also, before purchasing, ask yourself if you’ll wear it a minimum of 30 times. If the answer is no, then forget about it and move on with a lighter heart—and carbon footprint. This is the 30 times wear challenge. However, most clothing items can be worn way more than 30 times and it can be handed down through generations, this is a fine act of being sustainable. • What’s old is new again. Shop in vintage or thrift shops, in fact, urban areas generally have a wide range of choices in western countries. Otherwise, in a country like India, you can shop online since there aren’t many options

for second-hand shopping, considering the taboos that are attached to it. • Reduce water waste. Wash clothes less frequently. Often, we tend to wear something once and wash it whether it’s clean or not. If you’ve had a spill on your clothing, try spot-cleaning. Washing clothes exposes nature with microfibers. It also takes a toll on the environment through the use of water, electricity, and most laundry detergent is not eco-friendly.

As consumers, we should repeatedly remind ourselves that there is a power behind every purchase. Practicing conscious living and conscious clothing is very difficult in today’s day and age with the temptations that are there everywhere. However, recognition and acknowledgment should be given to those who are trying to make an effort and influence others to join their hands in this journey of claiming one’s control over their lives.

• Spread the love. Donate your unwanted clothes to charity organizations or take them to consignment shops • Skip the landfill. Many retailers offer recycling programs. Some will even purchase, refurbish, and resell gently worn garments. • Upcycle for a new look. Rework the fabric from old clothes into something new, e.g., a pillowcase, quilt, or doll clothes. Expanding one’s imagination and making the most out of it is an art and consumers should come up with creative solutions to the existing items available to them. Like in West Bengal, India in villages women traditionally use old fabrics to make quilts this is called Kantha. Lately, there have been several adaptations of the same.

Power of conscious consumerism. Conscious consumerism is the power that consumers have throughout the buying process which can make a positive impact. It has an underlying intention to balance out the negatives that the industrialization movement has brought about on the earth. Conscious consumption by individuals is positively related to political action. According to global data, 48.9% of these consumers were making a conscious effort to buy less stuff. Posing a threat to mainstream retailers and industrialists. Such consumers want to actively make changes with the help of their acts. These types of consumers are usually the younger generation- millennials. However, it has to be noted that these consumers have some level of privilege. It also found that of those surveyed, 51% of Boomers (aged 5064) were also inclined to pay higher prices for sustainable products too. In the US alone, consumers are expected to spend $150 billion on sustainable products by 2021. Conscious consumerism is linked to the concept of “dollar voting”. Voting with your dollar refers to the understanding that one should not only support problematic companies but also vote for sustainability and humane working conditions, both by the way the company functions and what they sell.

Conscious consumers as a whole have added to the grand scheme of things how various companies have been working and how there has been a great production control in the entirety. It started as a trend and now it has encouraged several people all over the world to make a difference. Consumer impact has been having a great world and marketing effect. As conscious consumerism becomes more mainstreamed pricing of such products which are hugely on the huger end will also become cheaper, which will make it more accessible to everyone Lately, various fast fashion brands are also using the concept of conscious consumerism to greenwash customers to buy more. Various brands like H&M and Uniqlo are using the sentiment of consumer’s search for ‘green’ products and have been capitalizing on it. “Greenwashing” refers to fashion companies claiming that their products are environmentally friendly, when often they are not. In 2019, H&M launched its line of “green” clothing titled “Conscious.” The company claims to use “organic” cotton and recycled polyester. However, at a glance, the line is nothing but a shelled marketing tactic used to make themselves appear more environmentally friendly. When

looking at H&M’s “Conscious” line, its mission states: “Shop our selection of sustainable fashion pieces that make you both look and feel good.” We as consumers can take our time, money, and efforts and spend it on consequential choices and put it towards that matters. But at the same time, consumers should realize that conscious consumerism is also a political movement. They can spend

these important resources and put it towards lobbying our government to ban toxic chemicals in our food and textile, or volunteer at organizations that combat such social issues. There are several alternative ways by which one can become a conscious consumer. It is the intention that would help the world to become a better place and the actions along with it. Conscious consumerism is a morally righteous, bold movement.

Chemical deposit on our skin through clothes When we see clothes hanging on the dangers of fast fashion stores that are priced lowly, we tend to visualize ourselves in the outfit but not think about what kind of chemicals it might have been made out of with! We wouldn’t consider our favorite outfit in our closet might give us cancer! Clothing manufacturers use more than 8000 toxic synthetic chemicals at different stages of clothing manufacturing. Most of these chemicals consist of carcinogens, hormones, and endocrine disruptors kept hidden in the fibers of the garment. A carcinogen is a substance that is capable of causing cancer to the living tissue. So unknowingly we as consumers are inviting a deadly chemical into our body because we don’t tend to see the bigger picture that is involved for cheaper clothing that we willingly purchase.

The magnitude at which chemicals are used in the fashion industry from seed development to the dyeing process is out of control. There is likely no supervision on the chemicals used by the fashion industry. There are few units in The USA where the use of such chemicals is monitored, especially chemicals like formaldehyde, linked to cancer but most of the manufacturing of clothes is done in 3rd world countries where laws are not strict or thorough. In a 2012 report by Greenpeace entitled “Toxic Threads: The Big Fashion Stitch-Up,” confirmed that major brands ― like Zara, Levi’s, Mango, Calvin Klein, and H&M ― were making and selling clothes containing hazardous chemicals. The new high performance-based clothing is most definitely interesting and has gathered great attention from

consumers. But consumers should not get fooled by them because they are made out of synthetic fibers that don’t allow the skin to breathe hence, not allowing it to release toxins from the body. Adding to it these synthetic fibers are petroleum-based. After each wash of these fabrics, it releases 1900 microfibres to the aquatic world which is highly dangerous. Leather goes through an intense tanning process

that has taken place with chromium. Despite natural dye tanning being possible, most units use chromium since it fastens the process and makes the leather softer and thinner. Chromium is not disposed of properly, it flows to the crop fields and causes a crop poisoning food system along with deaths and ulcers for the workers working with the chemical.

Source- Greenpeace Detox Campaign; European Chemicals Agency; Chemical Safety Facts 51

This problem can be solved by using second-hand clothing and wearing organic or eco-friendly fabrics and leather. Certified organic cotton grown free from GMO, should be used. Not only because it is a breathable and comfortable fabric but also because it uses 71% less water and 62% less energy to produce cotton. Linen or hemp should be used instead of newly modified workout fabrics because it is light yet strong fabric. Tencel is a semi-synthetic fabric that can be used it is made from traceable sourced eucalyptus tree pulp. Because it is a high tenacity cellulosic fiber, it creates a strong fabric that is also very absorbent. Second-hand clothing can

also be worn not only because it helps in reducing the number of clothes in clothing pits. But also because since these garments are old the toxins and chemicals are also washed out with time and use. Skin is the largest organ in our body and it is our responsibility to take care of it. We can do this by keeping a check on what we allow it to come in contact with. We should also keep a track on the cosmetics that we use. By looking at the chemicals used by the fashion and textile industry the consumer must become conscious not solely for the environment but also for oneself.

Healing Textiles

Natural dyes have been used all over the world in indigenous tribes and cultures, it is said that they have magical properties. With the introduction of synthetic dyes for mass productions and dyeing of fabrics such as natural dyes were subdued. As consumers are becoming more and more aware of their actions and choices they are also getting to discover that their clothing has been exposed to harmful

chemicals hence exposing themselves to danger. Consumers are doing their research and the use of natural dyes has come under the spotlight not only for its color but also for its therapeutic/medicinal properties. It is essential to highlight that these dyes are biodegradable hence it is safer for the environment when it comes to disposing of it. These dyes can be extracted from plants and insects. 53

Lately, fashion and environmental enthusiasts have shown great interest in natural dye. The revival of natural dyes is the response to harmful synthetic dyes. Widely used natural dyes are indigo, turmeric, tulsi, Chandan, henna, neem, clove. Indigo is still one of the widely used natural dyes. It has antimicrobial properties along with antiseptic, and immune‐stimulant properties combat lymphatic problems. The dye is said to have a cooling effect. It provides a sterilizing or deodorizing effect and is used for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. According to reports, in the southern Iranian peninsula people have been applying indigo for healing treatments to their skin. Some were convinced that wrapping an indigo cloth coated in beeswax and oil around a wound was more effective than modern antiseptic lotions. Turmeric is an iconic herb that is widely available in every Indian household. It is a powerful antiseptic, which revitalizes the skin. Dyeing of polyester fabric with chitosan and turmeric dye enhances the UPF - ultraviolet factor of the fabric. Hence, protecting from ultraviolet radiation. Henna has been used as a colorant for more than 3000 years. Application of henna extract on canonized cotton fabric showed outstanding enhancement in UV protection with minimal impact on the tensile strength against harmful UV radiation. Neem dyed fabric has great antimicrobial properties. It has a cooling and refreshing element in it like 54

indigo. They also interrupt metabolism in microbes to reduce the formation of odor and to safeguard the fiber’s products from staining discoloration and quality deterioration. Tulsi is another substitute during autumn. These natural dyes are life saviors in today’s day and age. Colors of nature are one of the most well-known textile dyeing units in India which try to preserve and promote the use of natural dyes. Several brands all over the world use natural dyes for their textiles but also encourage its counterpart companies to use it. Upasana is an ideal example of it, they have a collection called healing textiles. This collection consists of fabric made by infusing tulsi, neem, and sandalwood. They have been educating their customers about the uniqueness of these fabrics, this has made them get international recognition for the same. Few companies in India that manufacture naturally dyed clothing are anokhi, forty red bangles, indigreen, Maku. A few brands abroad who follow such a dyeing process are Anthemia, Older brother, and many more. The clothing industry must start changing its approach for dying its textiles even though it might be expensive. But in the end, their actions would not only be helping the clothing industry to be more ethical but also aid their consumers to live a healthy life.

Indian culture and holistic clothing in today’s world India’s role in the fashion industry has always been prominent. Starting from the time when the country used to supply its organic and beautiful traditional textiles to the rest of the world or at times like the 21st century, where it is one of the largest manufacturing units for clothing all over the world. India can be considered to be one of the first few countries to introduce holistic clothing

to the world. Since ancient times India had been making organic textiles and fabrics, its traditional fabric was also such that it led to minimal fabric wastage. This changed right before the industrial revolution when the clothing industry was handed over to machines for faster manufacturing. India gifted the world with cotton, variations of silk, various weaves. It also introduced the world with sustainable dyes like 55

turmeric, indigo, tulsi, pomegranate, and many more. As consumers are becoming aware of their clothing at the present age, they want to shift their wardrobe from the one which is full of chemicals and blood of innocent farmers to a conscious one. As the feeling of consciousness arises in the consumer’s mind they think about India knowing about its history and its importance in the clothing and textile industry. The

history of the clothing industry of India has left the world with a lasting image of it. There are so many Indian labels who are working in the green fashion industry who are not only helping farmers but are also leaving a lasting image in the international front. Indian designers have been trying to preserve the age-old textiles of India like organic Khadi, silk, cashmere, hemp, bamboo, and even work with new modified textiles that are not harmful to the environment. 57

SUSTAINABLY FASHIONABLE • Buy good quality Buy less Cheaper clothes temots is to buy more and puts high pressure on the environment. • Buy organic cotton - It uses no chemicals, cotton uses 50% of world’s total pesticides and insecticide in its conventional farming and puts high pressure on farmers 300000 thousand farmer has committed suicide in

india alone ;und ether pressure of chemicals farming.

• Buy good handloom - it supports 54 million people , who work in the craft , textile and clothing sector in india. • Use -reuse - recycle - your one denim alone takes 35000 litres of water in its life cycle.

• Buy ethical and conscious brands - Our purchase is a VOTE for a better future . • Watch out from greenwashing know who makes your clothes and how. • Buy cotton clothes -instead of man made fibre - cotton we produce them a lot , 85 million trees are cut annually to make cellulose base man made fibre . • Buy khadi -It is a new luxury and

India makes it a lot. • Avoid “SALE “ - It is sold as a marketing strategy - behind every sale is poverty for people who made your clothes • Buy natural dyes clothes Chemically dyed textile is Most polluting and is not good for our well being. • What you wear is a message Make it conscious- it is possible.

UPASANA GUIDE !

Upasana has had a dream to bring alive the heritage of India’s local textile industry. It has been the brainchild of Uma Prajapati and Manoj Pavitran. It was in the wilderness of Auroville that Upasana was conceived, in the year 1997. A dream had taken shape in an unconventional setting, as a garment manufacturing and design unit was born. At the core of Upasana lies its fundamental ethos, of using fashion as a tool, to solve social and environmental issues. Upasana started by focusing on textiles and methods to preserve it and now it eventually moved towards a more serious subject of cotton farmers’ suicide. It has taken the focus of the brand and to date, it aims to work on the same. Upasana is known for its effort to become a zero-waste company. Recycling has been a prime focus for 60

the brand, Upasana’s most recognized and successful projects have been Tsunamika. The project started after the 2004 tsunami that struck the coastal area of Tamil Nadu. It is the result of her mother’s violent temper, she is the daughter of the tsunami. These are beautiful handmade dolls made out of waste fabrics, this project has reached great heights. About 500 women were trained to make these dolls between February and May 2005, 200 have made a livelihood out of this. It has taught the entire world about the impact recycling has on all of us. The Tsunamika book has been recognized by UNESCO, and the government of India has given it the prestigious “Award of Excellence to Contribution to Business and Society”. Tsunamika comes in the form of hair clips, brooches, bookmarks, tassels and has lately been part of various

garments. The mission of tsunamika is to heal and transform human souls. The company has always aimed for environmental development and conservation. Small steps is an initiative based on the premise that it is not necessary to take big steps to make a difference. The initiative tackles the huge issue of environmental damage to earth due to the irresponsible usage of plastic. It dissuades people from using plastic bags and offers them the environmental-friendly option of cloth bags instead. Small steps are a bag made either out of cotton or cotton and polyester mix. The project is financed through donations, run by volunteers and the bags are distributed as gifts. It has employed 20 men and over 200 women from 10 villages. As the Upasana stands by its promise to be by the cotton farmer’s side. Following its promise, the company has had two very successful projects namely Kapas and Paruthi. The Kapas organic cotton project (Kapas - cotton in Sanskrit) was the culmination of an effort that began in June 2008, when over 400 farmers in and around Madurai came together to cultivate organic cotton on 900 acres of the rain-fed region. It is a sustainable business collaborative striving to protect and promote fragile cotton producing communities in Tamil Nadu. Kapas leverages partnerships with several local organizations to choose only organic and indigenous crops nurtured by all-natural fertilizers;

employ a fair business model that improves the livelihoods of farmers and weavers, and use natural dyes to create top-quality basics with a higher level of consciousness. Paruthi is also a label by Upasana that has led to the boast in clothing made of organic cotton. This project has transformed the lives of several cotton farmers. The project makes garments for ladies, kids, and gents, and also has separate, lines for home furnishing, accessories, and yoga-wear. Janaki is a project by Upasana which tries to showcase the true essence of Auroville to the rest of the world and give a complete experience of conscious living. At first, the store in Puducherry sold home furnishings and organic food. They also have a farmers market on Saturday. The brand is based on the concept of India’s‘ grandmother’ who has been looked at as a wisdom tree in Indian families.