Document on Kolhapur and Kolhapuri Chappal

Craft Development Study - Kolhapur Leather Craft -

Avni Jain Hitanshi Kamdar Kartik Khemani Nikita Singh Thapa Rasika Marathe Shreyoshi Mitra Srishti1Kundu Fashion Communication

DECLARATION

We hereby declare that the project work entitled “Cluster Stu-Kolhapur� submitted to NIFT Mumbai, is a record of an original work done by us under the guidance of Mrs. Sushmita Das and Mrs. Sonali our mentor for cluster Study B.Design Fashion Communication.

2

CERTIFICATE OF OWNERSHIP

All the data provided in the report have been taken from authentic sites/ sources and are true to the best of our knowledge . No part of this report should be copied in any physical form or digital form.The output of this research report is for the use of academic purpose. No commercial value should be derived out of it.

3

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We are grateful to the sanctum of “NIFT Mumbai,�for providing an excellent platform to pursue our project work in good spirit.

We would like to sincerely thank our Director Sir Mr. Pawan Godiawala for encouraging us.

We would like to express our gratitude to our Joint Director sir Mr. Brijesh Deore for all his initiatives and for providing us a congenial atmosphere to work in.

We would like to thank our Resource Centre head Dr. A.N Bandi, in particular for the excellent facilities provided in the college resource centre.

Our deep and profound gratitude to our mentors Mrs. Sushmita Das and Mrs. Sonali Saldana, for their constant help and support and granting us permission to carry out this research work. We also thank them for timely suggestions and encouragement at every step, which helped us to complete the work successfully.

We thank all our friends for their consent support and valuable feedback on surveys without which the successful completion of this report would not have been possible. We also thank the craftsmen of Kolhapur who have been an immense support.

We thank all the teaching and non-teaching staff of our FC department for their constant support.

4

5

6

A test of patience in waiting for the glue to dry

7

Kolhapur is a place in Maharashtra that sits in the Sahyadri range and is situated on the banks of the beautiful river Panchaganga

8

Royal darbar of the descendants of the mighty Marathas New Palace, Kolhapur 9

01 About Kolhapur

Contents02 How to reach ?

- Transportation - Accessibilty pg 16

04 Places to see

05 pg 18

Kolhapuri Chappal Making - History - Origin - Evolution pg 22

10

pg 14

03 Climate

pg 17

06 Product Range

pg 25

07 Size of craft

11 pg 27

08 Export

Tool Used

12

10 pg 30

Materials Used

pg 32

Process

pg 39

13

09 Unique Selling Point

pg 35

Craftsmen Profi

pg 31

11

pg 46

14 Shop Profiles

19 pg 51

Government Association

17 15

Question / Answers

pg 55

20 Government Policies

Intellectual Property Rights and Geographic Indication pg 52

pg 62

pg 63

18 16 Status of Kolhapuri Chappal

SWOT Analysis Strengths Weakness Oppurtunities and Threats

pg 59

21 Future Prospects

pg 54

12

pg 64

Mahalaxmi Temple 13

About Kolhapur Kolhapur city is mainly located in the south western of Maharashtra at 160 25’N740 08’E16.410N 74.130 E.

It is an inland city located in south-west Maharashtra state, 228 km south of Pune, 615 km north-west of Bengaluru and 530 km west of Hyderabad. Kolhapur has an 11 of 569 meters (1867 Ft.) which is higher than the Pune. Therefore the climate of Kolhapur is usually pleasant. It lies in the Sahayadri mountains in the Western Ghats. Kolhapur is south side of Pune and 230 km by road and 615 km. north west of Bangalore and 530 km. west side of Hyderabad. Kolhapur district has 12 talukas. The adjacent cities and towns around 100 km. areas are Kagal (17 km), Sangli (50 km), Ichalkaranji (20 km), and Miraj (45 km).

Architectural inspirations 14

History and art hidden along every street 15

How to reach?

Transportation•RailwayThe Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj Terminus links Kolhapur via rail to India’s major cities with express services to Pune, Mumbai, Bangaloreand New Delhi.

A new railway route between kolhapur and vaibhavwadi has been confirmed, this route will connect kolhapur and many other cities to west coast of India.

•Road- Kolhapur is located on National Highway 4 and National Highway 204.

The city has three state transport bus stands: Central Bus Stand (CBS), Rankala Bus Stand and Sambhajinagar Bus Stand. Kolhapur Municipal Transport (KMT) provides local bus services.

The CBS of Kolhapur is the busiest bus stand in western Maharashtra with more than 12,000 commuters a day.

Accessibiity•By train the distance between Mumbai to Kolhapur is 418 km.

The minimum time a train takes to reach Kolhapur from Mumbai is 9h 55m.

•By bus or road travel the distance between Mumbai and Kolhapur is 376 km.

•The aerial distance from Mumbai to Kolhapur is 302 km.

16

•Airport-Kolhapur’s domestic airport is located 9 kilometres (5.6 mi) south east of the city at Ujalaiwadi.

Nearest International Airport to Kolhapur are - Pune International Airport and Goa International Airport.

The regular air travel is not yet established.

Climate Kolhapur’s climate is a blend of coastal and inland elements common to Maharashtra. The temperature has a relatively narrow range between 10 °C to 35 °C. Summer in Kolhapur is comparatively cooler, but much more humid, than neighbouring inland cities.

Maximum temperatures rarely exceed 38 °C and typically range between 33 and 35 °C. Lows during this season are around 24 °C to 26 °C.

Holy temple of the Mahalakshmi Ambabai The city receives abundant rainfall from June to September due to its proximity to the Western Ghats. The heavy rains often lead to severe flooding during these months. 2005 and 2006 were years when floods occurred. Temperatures are low in the rainy season and range between 19 °C and 30 °C. Kolhapur experiences winter from November to February. The winter temperatures are warmer than other cities in Maharashtra such as Pune and Nashik. Lows range from 9 °C to 16 °C while highs are in the range of 26 °C to 32 °C due to its high elevation and being adjacent to the Western Ghats. Humidity is low in this season making the weather much more pleasant.

17

Places to see Kolhapur has an abundance of temples and forts in and around to visit. With a rustic charm and historical architecture, the sights are truly a delight and must not be missed. A few places that are a must are -

Rankala Lake

Visit to Doodh Katta

One of the famous tourist spots in kolhapur is rankala choupaty , where the evening walk is worth a memory. You can enjoy boating, Horse riding, Camel rides & Chowpaty food like bhel, pani puri, pav bhaji, batata wada, etc on the food stalls there.

A tradition being carried on, Gangavesh Doodh Katta is a place where 100 ‘s of cows are bought daily & milked to sell fresh milk thereafter. The streets are busy from 5 in the morning till 1 in the night.

18

Dajipur Bison Sanctuary

Giroli Tourist Park

Dajipur is situated on the border of Kolhapur and Sindhudurg districts. Rugged mountains and dense forests surround this hilly area. This quiet little place is completely cut-off from human blare. Dajipur is home to bison, wild deer, chital, gawa and many more spectacular wild animals and birds. Situating at 1200 metres above the sea level, it is an exciting and beautiful holiday getaway. An excursion in the vicinity to the Gagangiri Maharaj’s Math makes a pleasant outing for the tourists. This scenic resort near the backwaters of the Radhanagari Dam is highly recomended

The restaurant in the park offers delectable food from Kolhapur, Goa, karnataka and the Konkan region. One may take rest here after enjoying visiting the tropical flora and fauna, the wild cry of the peacock, the chirp of the forest birds. The tourists can plan for visits to Panhala, Jyotiba, Warnanagar and the carvings of Pohale

Visit to Sugar Factories

Evening at Gural

Maharashtra Sugar Industry is one of the most famous and large-scale sugar manufacturing sectors in India. When you are in Kolhapur, you should visit one of the nearby Sugar Factory and see how beautiful they are.

A rare chance to get a glimpse of jaggery being prepared from sugarcane juice during the harvesting season (October- January) at gurals at nearby sugarcane fields. Also enjoy fresh & hot liquid jaggery with variety of toppings along with cultural shows being arranged on request.

19

Panhala Panhala is 20 km from Kolhapur. Dotted with ancient fortifications and buildings that have witnessed the ups and downs of the Maratha Empire, Panhala is an enchanting hill station of Maharashtra, which is located at an altitude of 977.2m. This place is famous for its historic importance as well as its scenic beauty. Panhala has fresh landscapes and an ideal getaway from urban hustling-bustling. Built between 1178-1209 AD, Panhala Fort is the largest of all Deccan forts. Average temperature is 250 C.

20

Sacred doorway to the past

Kolhapuri Chappals

21

Kolhapuri Chappal Making History, Origin, Evolution

The patronage of all the crafts of Kolhapur, including the leather craft, can be traced back to the royal family. The crafts present in Kolhapur were given great impetus under the reign of Chattrapati Shahuji Maharaj. Among leather crafts, Kolhapuri chappals, which are deeply rooted in the tradition of Kolhapur, were the first ones to be produced. Other items made of leather like bags and wallets were produced much later in Kolhapur.

Making of Kolhapuri chappals started even before the time of Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj but exact time period of its origin is not

known. Kolhapuri chappals were were not only is allowed to touch locally tanned using vegetable them but also they had to stay at dyes. a specific distance from the upper caste people.

Charmkars/ Chambhars are a dalit sub-caste which engaged in On an average, every village making leather articles. Tanning had one or two Dhor families was initially done at Bindu Chowk engaged in the traditional job of which became the centre of the tanning. In addition, a few families city as the city expanded and of Chambhars were involved in started creating problems for the making chappals. Chhatrapati residents, so the Chambhars were Shahuji Maharaj was the main provided a free plot by the king promoter of this craft. It provided outside the city because they were full time employment to these considered untouchables by the people. high class Brahmins. Because of this reason, peoples of untouchable

22

EVOLUTION Kolhapuri Chappals are world famous because of its special features. But now-a-days due to insufficient capital, lack of modern techniques, lack of marketing facilities and intelligence, the extreme necessity of agents to sell the products and indebtedness of the artisans etc., leather industry has remained undeveloped in Kolhapur district. Some other reasons are also affect this industry such as negligence, lack of foresight, political ignorance etc. Due to these reasons, there are only minor changes that have happened in this industry. Big drums are used instead of tanks are used to enable tanning on a large scale. Similarly, some tanners introduced machine to break the raw materials.

Pre-independence Period: The Kolhapur leather industry was protected encouraged and had the royal blessing of Hon’ble Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj. The leather industry was entirely manned by tanner and cobbler and scheduled caste community. His Highness Shri Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, in his period of his rule (1884 to 1922) paid a keen attention to the social and economic upliftment of the untouchables as well Charmkars and offered socio-economic and moral support to them. Chambhars made shoes and other leather footwear.

During the 1890s besides making shoes, Chappals, Mote (bring water from well), Pakhals (bag of bring water on he-buffalo) and lagam also started being produced.

By the 1920s, In Kolhapur state tanning units were running in a large number of places and tanning was done on a large scale.

Post-independence Period: Technological progress can be beneficial only to those who are well informed leather manufacturers.

Progress of any industry without such information is impossible. Use of modern technology and techniques for tanning and leather activities have been shown increasing trend after the independence period.

23

During the 1950s, leather artisan co-operative societies started coming up.

During the year 1954, the leather industry of Kolhapur district suffered tremendous loss due to non availability of infrastructural facilities so leather artisans initially switched out of leather into synthetics.

Under the leadership of Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, a number of progressive laws were adopted such as laws to curb atrocities on SCs, laws giving rights to women and children, laws to ensure social justice and equality etc, which were beneficial for these artisans.

LIDCOM (Leather Industrial Development Corporation of Maharashtra) for the development of leather industry in Kolhapur district, LIDCOM (old name Sant Rohidas Charmodyog and Charmakar Vikas Mahamandal) opened its branch on 1st May 1974. LIDCOM runs several attractive schemes for the empowerment of leather industry. But in fact, the authority of the LIDCOM, branch Kolhapur does not know how to develop and perform this industry in Kolhapur district Till the year 1979-80, Kolhapur leather industry had been exporting wet blue leather i.e. semi-finished leather to various foreign countries and importing the finished leather for manufacturing the footwear’s and other goods.

2000-present: Economic reforms and globalisation affected whole economy last two decades. Now, Kolhapur leather cluster is facing several challenges of upgrading Kolhapuri Chappal quality, access to wider market, advanced skilled labour, accessing credit and adequate business infrastructure and protecting the environment. Apart from the old traditional designs of Kolhapuri Chappal, artisan units have tried out major innovations in Chappal designs and increased the export percentage to the abroad countries.

24

Product Range It’s the world famous hand crafted footwear made of buffalo leather which are tanned using vegetable oil.

• The original Kolhapuri is made from 100% cow or buffalo leather & is mainly available in 3 colors – natural, oil, and polish.

• The hand crafted footwear dyed with vegetable dyes initially came out to the market in the style of an open-toed and a T-strap sandal.

• The original traditional Kolhapuris made of buffalo hide and thread had a thick sole and weighed up to 2kgs and was able to withstand even high degree of heat and hard mountain terrain.

• Kolhapuri chappals are exquisitely designed and embellished. Intricately hand crafted with gold zari, pom poms, gota, etc.

Quintessential traditional kolhapuris for men 25

Though people still prefer the traditional Kolhapuris with modernization, there are also other young crowds which look for the latest trends in them. There have been updates in the chappal with being available in more brighter and vibrant colors.

With time, the original products are not matching to the needs of the contemporary market, thus the craftsmen on the brink of extinction are forced to create varied styles and new varieties of this product.

The latest pattern of Kolhapuris is available in bright colors ranging from violet to electric green, silver to golden colors. They’re also beautified by works like gota kinaari, stone work and delicate hand work. All these latest updates have given the Kolhapuri a modern outlook and versatility.

26

Tradition with a sprinkle of modern design

Size of Craft Overall Sales and Total Production Kolhapur has been associated to leather craft for years. Majorly a small scale cottage industry, the products they churn out endlessly are popular worldwide.

Every member of a leather artisan’s family contributes to the process of manufacturing, here the Kolhapuri chappal. They are involved in various different activities i.e. cutting the leather, mainly stitching the ‘Patta’ (strap/belt) or to weaving the ‘Veni’ (braid). The manufacturing process of is fully divided into the artisan’s family with the generally gents doing the leather cutting and the ladies doing the upper and lower sole stitching work, while school age children weave the ‘veni’ (braid). The whole family works laboriously and they usually manufacture around 35 to 40 pairs of chappals in a week. These chappals are mainly sold either to

wholesale dealers or shopkeepers who are in the Kolhapur city with the artisans earning about Rs. 180-220 and Rs.700-1000 per pair minimum which depends upon the quality of leather used.

Presently, almost 10,000 artisans are engaged in leather manufacturing units in Kolhapur district. Nearly 80 percent of the leather artisans manufacture Kolhapuri chappals for the middlemen who supply raw materials to them. The leather artisans work for the dealers or middlemen on wage basis, which provides required raw materials to manufacturing units. The male artisans undertake

27

the job of leather cutting, seasoning of leather and fitting and final finishing whereas the women artisans work 13 of making upper belts, designs and sole-stitching during the spare time as well after home work.

•Kolhapuri Chappal making in Kolhapur district has remained a cottage industry for a long period.

Even today out of the total production of Kolhapuri Chappal which in 2012 was 2.80 lakh pairs, nearly 80 percent was from the cottage industries.

•It is found that most of the craftsmen work almost 10 hours every day.

units and only 10 big units which were engaged in manufacturing Kolhapuri Chappal. These units manufacture different types of products which include the fancy and export oriented Kolhapuri Chappals.

•The current cost of production has increased due to increasing raw material prices. Hence, a higher investment is required. Most craftsmen invest roughly between Rs. 5000-10,000 in the leather occupation. One fourth of the craftsmen invest approximately Rs.10,000-20,000 while 3 percent of the craftsmen invested as much as Rs. 30,000.

•Most of the manufacturers of Kolhapuri chappal sell their products through retailers.

•There is an absence of co-operative transaction in tanning and marketing of tanned leather in Kolhapur district. In 1957, there were 8 leather artisan’s co-operative societies whereas in 2012, only one co-operative society exists which also did not function perfectly.

• The available market centres for hides and skins in the Kolhapur district has reduced from 36 tanning units to a measly 12. It shows negative growth of tanning industry in Kolhapur district.

•It has been observed that there were 208 small

•General cost of production of Kolhapuri chappal

28

is Rs. 215 for male and Rs. 200 for female chappals. The minimum margin for male chappals is usually Rs.15-35 and for female chappals is Rs.2040. The cost of production is changeable and depends upon the type of raw material used and its variety. The price range of the Kolhapuri chappal is between Rs.350-400, Rs.700-1000 and Rs.500010,000 depending on the design and material used. •Majority of the craftsmen manufacture roughly 21 to 40 pairs of chappals per week. •There is a trend of new models of Kolhapuri chappals being manufactured with various names such as- Sangram, Devayani of TV serials in order to attract customers.

29

Export The Council for Leather Exports (CLE) has stated that The Indian Leather Industry takes position of a prestigious place in the whole economy. India’s leather and leather products exports in 2009-10 were US$3.40 billion.

India’s export of leather and leather goods during the first 6 months of the year 201011 touched US$ 1,864.27 million. Leather footwear alone contributes to a big share of 44.67% in India’s total leather products export trade.

30

Stacks of hard work and skill

USP All the Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted and are dyed with vegetable dyes. It is processed by performing a series of mechanical operations in order to preserve it where the hides of buffalo are processed and grazed. As they are grazed, the leather becomes hard enough and thereby durable. They are also very chunky and rugged. Very suitable for daily use, this footwear is available in vibrant colours, different sizes and patterns.

Handcrafting perfection

31

Materials Used The following raw materials are used for making Kolhapuri chappals-

in between two layers of sole, to make sound while walking.

•(Mhasadi) She & He Buffalo leather: It is the foremost raw material for making Kolhapuri chappal and is used for preparation of lower sole.

•Chunnna (lime stone): Chunnna are used for smoothening the leather in bag tanning process.

•Baladi (Leather of Cow & Bullock hide): Used for upper sole making •Gavi (Calf Leather): Used for making belts •Shepati (Leather of tails of cattles): For making thread for Sewing Upper and Lower Sole •Cotton & Nylon Threads: used to stitch the chappal according to the customers demand.

•Rubber Powder: Rubber Powder is used for sticking the leather.

•Sisal Leaf (Cactus): Sisal Leaves are used to stitch the skin of the buffalo/cow during bag tanning process.

•Seeds (vinchu) Tree: A particular type of seeds are kept

32

•Vegetables: Used for making dyes.

•Red Color Flower: It is used to adorn the chappal

1) Trims and accessories used: A red flower on the strap adorns the chappal. The chappals are sometimes intricately crafted with gold cord, zari strips, pom poms or gota etc. which can be worn on occasions like weddings. Apart from the traditional Kolhapuri designs, the designs are also inspired by neighbouring states of Gujarat and Rajasthan.

2) Skills and manpower: Elaborate hand skills are required for making Kolhapuri chappals. The rough surface of leather is shaved till the smooth surface is obtained and as per the form of the slipper size of the tanned leather is cut. Sole and the cut pattern pieces are stuck with the local adhesive (rubber solution) to stick with each part of the sole. The makers have to work in harsh sunlight as the chappals are then dried in sunlight. The side patti’s of the chappal goat leather is preferred as it can be curved to any shape. The skin of the sheep are further cut into thin strips and plaited which is later fixed on the side strap and kept aside for drying. Base of the chappal is usually stitched with skin part (hide of the buffalo/ cow) of the tail, nowadays it is stitched with nylon threads.

33

34

Tools Used -

Country Hammer: It is used for thumping the sole and foot-bed.

• Rappi (Knife): The leathers are cut according to the required designs by using Rappi.

• Asti (hammer): Metal hammer used for beating the leather.

• Kurpa (hasiya) and Setall (aari): Thesel are also used as a knife for cutting leather.

• Punches: Punches for punching design and numbers.

• Stamps: Stamps for stamping logo.

• Machine: Machine for cutting bubble or hirda.

• Sewing Machine: It is used to stitch the braided parts on the patti‘s of the chappal.

• Chandini Punch (Star pogar): It is used to make a design.

• Thodapaekapathi: Thodapaekapathi used to give

wave effect or zigzag type of designs patterns.

• Grinder: Grinder are used for smoothening the leather for finishing raw materials.

• Palagana (Kargoti stone): Palagana helps to remove the outer hair of buffalo or cow hide.

• Rubber Powder: Rubber Powder is used for sticking the leather.

• Wooden Sponge: The wooden sponge are dipped into the rubber solution and applied on the leather for pasting.

35

Tools

36

Work Setup with Tools 37

38

Process We entered the quiet corner outside the craftsman’s humble home that he calls his workplace.

Casually steeped in the tradition that truly makes this unique handicraft invaluable, the place had a very homely vibe. He rolled out a straw mat and gave us chairs to ensure our comfort. The place was clean and he began the process by arranging the tools and materials he would require neatly.

He worked with the efficiency of a man who has done this day after day for years. With a sturdy stone as his workspace, he began the process of turning sheets of goat and buffalo leather into a pair of beautiful kolhapuri chappals.

Instruments of the craft

39A test of patience in waiting for the glue to dry

-The first thing he did was grab a sharpening stone and sharpened the edges of the rapi (knife).

-After hammering the goat skin which is used for the top of the chappals owing to their soft quality, he traced the stencil’s outline onto it and deftly cut it with the rapi.

-He then cut tinier pieces which were called the kaan and would be used on the sides to attach the straps.

Then the buffalo skin which is used for the heel due to its slight roughness was hammered and the shape was quickly traced onto it.

-Cutting the heel took added focus and precision. Usually modern craftsmen use machines for this part of the process but he learnt this from his father and grandfather. Hand cutting the heel is more precise; however it does cause back and shoulder pain.

-The tools are repeated sharpened using bees wax and a small stone.

-He then got out a huge bottle filled with white liquid called solution. The solution is applied and after waiting for it to dry a while, the kaan pieces are stuck to the goat.

-leather. The solution is a mix of various chemicals and acts as a very strong adhesive.

-After this squarish thick blocks of buffalo leather are cut for the heel. These pieces are termed tapis locally.

-The tapis is levelled well and stuck to the buffalo leather pieces using solution. The shape of the chappals is reinforced after all the sticking is over.

-The top of the buffalo skin is then buffed to ensure the goat skin has a grip to stick to.

-Buffing is done using a grinder. Machines have now made the grinding process also quicker.

-Small pieces of goat leather are inserted in between where the arch of the foot would be for added comfort.

This is followed by more solution where the goat skin sole is finally stuck to the buffalo skin heel. The pieces are hammered together using an asti (hammer).

40

-A metal compass is used to etch a border to the silhouette.

-The size of the shoe is engraved easily by hammering the numbering tool into it.

-The chappals are adorned with a design around the border. This is achieved through an engraving process where the tool called chaap is hammered into the leather surface leaving behind marks in the process.

-Once the base is perfectly ready, toe slits are cut at a rough distance of three fingers from the top of the chappal.

-The edges and heel are buffed quickly using a grinder.

-Now the chappals are ready to be coloured their signature bright orange. The chemical colour is applied using a shoe brush. Even the heel is coloured.

-The dried chappal is then polished with a plain brush.

-The toe slits are lifted using a tocha and the toe patti is stuck using solution.

-The main patti is stuck in two tinier slits next to the toe and slits are made in the kaan as well.

-Tiny nails called tingal hold the patti in place while the craftsman stitches them in place with a kathakari. This step is usually done by the women.

41

Gluing a strong base

Cutting through the leather

42

A skill beyond gender

43

Detailing done for the chappal with the help of specilised tools

44

Smoothening of the harsh edges of the chappal 45

Craftsmen Profiles

Balakrishna Shamrao Gavali

The 59 year old craftsman turned retailer has over 40 years of experience in his cap. The business that provides a regular livelihood has a cultural paramparik value to the man. The tradition of kolhapuri chappals entered his family with his grandfather. He hails from Kanheri Math and lived a majority of his life in a small village on the outskirts of Kolhapur. Young Balakrishna studied in Kolhapur where he stayed in hostels and gained a sales knowledge alongside by working in the local chappal markets. After an early death of his father, he learnt the art of kolhapuri chappals from his grandfather and took over the business. His skills were honed over time by working in various karkhanas across Kolhapur.

46

Balakrishna Shamrao Gavali

40 years of hard work and diligence has led to their units being all over Kolhapur. Their business has expanded all across the country as well as internationally. They provide the karigars under them with material and then sell the chappals for a profit in the markets. The materials are sourced from Chennai and Kanpur. This is done because the tanning of leather has been banned in Mumbai due to the fact that the leather tanning units caused a lot of water pollution.

The say they pay each karigar an average of Rs. 70-100 per chappal; a sentiment not resonated by the craftsmen who claim to receive hardly Rs. 50 per pair. Every karigar makes roughly 100-150 chappals per week. The karigars suffer back and shoulder pain and they are provided with basic medical care.

Mr. Gavali caters to over 100 vendors outside Kolhapur. They also sell abroad. They export to Australia, Switzerland, Singapore, Hong Kong, New York, Qatar, and Dubai. They pay for the transportation abroad. The costs are often increased by hardly Rs. 10-20. There is however a constant inflow of profit.

The age worn craftsman hopes to continue the legacy started by his ancestors. His son has a formal education and an MBA and has rejoined to business with plans to help and expand. They dabbled in e-commerce sites like Amazon before being duped as the products were returned unsold after a few months with many gone missing. They have their own shop in Kolhapur called Tip Top Footwear as well as a personal website which they hope to expand.

A peek into Gavali’s life

47

Chappals in a workshop

Bharti Gajanand Yadav

A local karigar who sells to Tip Top footwear, Bharti sat on the street right outside the door to her home and worked. So intent was she on working that she answered all our questions without taking a minute’s break. She has been a karigar for 10 years now and is the only person in her family involved in the craft.

She has no husband and one son who has studied and prefers to work in a mobile repair shop over joining the craft. It takes her 4 days to make a single pair on which she receives Rs. 75. The large amount of time taken along with being the sole worker makes it impossible for her to sell in markets directly which is why she has to rely on the middlemen.

Susheela Shankar Awle

An age worn lady who sat alone in the middle of the vast government association LIDCOM (Leather Industry Development Corporation of Maharashtra). She was free due to the absence of material which resulted in all work coming to a halt. She has been a karigar for over 40 years of her life. A mother of three kids of whom only one was involved in the craft. She earned the security of a fixed monthly income of Rs. 9500 after joining the association. Prior to this she would earn Rs. 800-900 per month and that would also depend on the number of chappals that would sell. The association provides the workers with salary as well as certain basic medical facilities irrespective of orders placed or chappals sold. The association has a very factory like set up with each artisan doing one part of the entire making process. Susheela Awle does the stitching and can stitch approximately 10 pairs of chappals in one day. She told us about how the association has plenty of machines but hasn’t taught the workers to use them properly and hence the chappals are still made entirely by hand.

48

Ravi Pawar Mr. Pawar has been involved in the production of Kolhapur crafts/chappal making for more than 30 years. He is sustaining his life based on the sales and profit he earns from these leather products (mainly kolhapuri chappals). Mr. Pawar is currently the only person working in his family who is earning. His father was involved in the same business of making kolhapuri chappals and later he also joined him. He wishes to impart his learning in his son as he wants him to continue with the traditional business only. He makes sure when he is making the chappals or any other leather products his son is sitting beside him to see how it is done. He always had immense support from his family comprising of his mother, wife, son and daughter. He produces good quality kolhapuri chappals on a small-scale production level and sells it to the retailer just adjacent to his house.

He belongs to a poor family and hence he is afraid to explore new options to sell his product so

Ravi Pawar 49

Labour steeped in tradition and love he sells his products to a fixed retailer only. He wants to change and try out more options to expand his business but he is unaware of the government support and schemes. He also wants to sell his products to other cities of Maharashtra but is unable of bearing the travel expenses and also afraid of introducing middlemen.

He has enormous knowledge about the craft and he makes the base and patti of the chappal and the sewing on the chappal is done by his mother who is 60 yrs old. She performs the task of making the stitches on the chappal. They prefer selling their chappals to local retailer as they pay them all in advance even before the sales are made. This helps them to not only run their family but also procure raw material for further production. He has faced a lot of trouble due to lack of raw material supply because of slaughter ban in India. He even switched to another mode of survival for some time and became a driver. Later when the supply of raw material was uniform he started his business again and now he is happy with the profit he is making. The only thing he wishes for is a better platform to sell his products and diversify his family business.

50

Welcome

Shop Profiles

A shop at the starting of the famous Shivaji Putla lane in Kolhapur, it has existed for 50 years. They have their own artisans making the chappals in Kolhapur. There is one unit that supplies four shops. Their godown is located in Subhash Nagar close by. Their products range from Rs. 300- 10,000 depending on the intricacies of the designs and the quality of the materials used.

Utsav

Easily one of the biggest shops in the famous chappal lane, it immediately catches your eye. They boast about 150 workers under them and have a unit in Subhash Nagar hardly 4 kilometres from where the shop is located. The shop has 40 years of experience in their repertoire. The leather is bought from Karnataka as the tanning of leather in Maharashtra has been banned. Even the dyeing process which was done in Kolhapur itself has been outsourced due to excessive water pollution. Their woes also include a decline in the number of artisans as with growing education among the younger generation; no one wants to join the craft. The only supplier of raw material they have in Kolhapur is an organisation called ‘DOOR Samaj’. The shop sells products ranging from Rs. 200-5000. They were one of the very few shops who also dabbled in the growing e-commerce by selling their products on close to 16 websites.

Tip Top Footwear

Owned by Balakrishna Gavali, it is an ancestral business. A wide variety of chappals are sold here. The cost of the footwear increases with the time spent on it. The more intricate the artisan makes the chappal; the more the value increases and consequently the craftsmen will also be paid more for the pair. Tip Top Footwear sells kolhapuri chappals at retail as well as wholesale cost; however their profits are obviously more dependent on the retail sales. They have over 100 artisans working for them all over Kolhapur as well as Miraj district.

They obtain raw material from Chennai and Nagpur.

They also sell chappals internationally.

51

IPR & GI Intellectual Property

Intellectual property (IP) is a category of property that includes intangible creations of the human intellect, and primarily encompasses copyrights, patents, and trademarks. It also includes other types of rights, such as trade secrets, publicity rights, moral rights, and rights against unfair competition. Artistic works like music and literature, as well as some discoveries, inventions, words, phrases, symbols, and designs can all be protected as

intellectual property. Intellectual property law has evolved over centuries Intellectual property (IP) is a category of property that includes intangible creations of the human intellect, and primarily encompasses copyrights, patents, and trademarks. It also includes other types of rights, such as trade secrets, publicity rights, moral rights, and rights against unfair competition. Artistic works

52

like music and literature, as well as some discoveries, inventions, words, phrases, symbols, and designs can all be protected as intellectual property. Intellectual property law has evolved over centuries.

Intellectual Property in India refers to the patents, co-rights and other intangible assets in India.

Indian government approved its first intellectual Property Rights Policy in May 2016.

Geographical Indicators

Geographical Indications of Goods are defined as that aspect of industrial property which refers to the geographical indication referring to a country or to a place situated therein as being the country or place of origin of that product. Typically, such a name conveys an assurance of quality and distinctiveness which is essentially attributable to the fact of its origin in that defined geographical locality, region or country. Under Articles 1 (2) and 10 of the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property, geographical indications are covered as an element of IPRs. They are also covered under Articles 22 to 24 of the Trade Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) Agreement, which was part of the Agreements concluding the Uruguay Round of GATT negotiations.

India, as a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO), enacted the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration & Protection) Act, 1999 has come into force with effect from 15th September 2003.

53

Art comes in all sizes

Status of Kolhapuri Leather Craft

As of October 25, 2017 there were 301 registered GIs in India. This did not include Kolhapuri Leather Craft. Upon further research it was found that while no application had been submitted for the leather craft on the whole, there was an application for Kolhapuri Chappals that had been submitted on May 5, 2009. Despite the long wait, the GI has not been approved yet. As of April 2018 its status still says ‘Examination’. The application has been sent in by Central Leather Research Institute (Council of Scientific & Industrial Research) which is located in Chennai. This is interesting since Kolhapur is located in Maharashtra.

However, the geographical area to be marked in the application states Karnataka and Maharashtra. (make sure to insert the table)

Skills require to be marketed 54

Question and Answer Customers PART A Q- Customer o Age o Gender o Marital Status o Occupation o Income PART B Q- Are you aware of the Kolhapur leather craft? o Yes o No Q- From where did you get yo know about the craft? o Friends o Internet o Media o Other(specify) - Have you ever purchased any Kolhapur leather product? o Yes o No

55

Q- if given a choice ,would you like to buy kolkhapur leather products again in future? o Yes o No If ‘Yes’, what is it that you like about the product?

Q- What products have you purchased till date? o Chappals o Bags o Wallets o Others(specify) Q- From where have you bought them from?

Q- Would you like to see more explorations in the craft other than chappals and bags? o Yes o No Specify what kind of products would you like to see in the market?

56

Artisans PART A Q-For how many years have you been practicing this craft?

Name o Age o Gender o Marital Status PART B Q- Through which channel do you sell your products? o Wholesalers o Retailers o E-commerce o Others (specify) Q-What are your education Qualifications?

Q- How much money do you earn monthly ?

Q- Do you practice this craft : o To earn a livelihood o Out of passion Are your family members involved in this craft? o Yes o No Q-What do you expect from your future generation?

57

Are your family members involved in this craft? o Yes o No Q-What do you expect from your future generation?

Q-Are you aware of the promotional channels such as electronic media, print media, trade shows, newspapers o Yes o No Q-What channel do you feel is the most appropriate for your craft? o Electronic media o Print o Trade shows o Newspapers o Others(specify)

58

SWOT An analysis of the Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, and Threats to the Kolhapur Leather Industry will help to assess its true potential. It is a brief and targeted way of summarising the given discussion.

Strengths -Easy availability of skilled and low cost labour.

The craftsmen are highly skilled as the craft has been an ancestral one. Children pick up the skill at a young age and it is honed over time. These craftsmen work for low costs as well.

-Handmade product niche Kolhapuri Chappals are a handmade artefact. This reduces the number of competitors greatly.

-Low Capital Investment The capital required for the craft is low as compared to the returns incurred.

-Support from government associations and other institute The Central Leather Research institute (CLRI) provides support for design and product development. Grants and policies by the Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra (LIDCOM) also help further the growth of this craft.

Weaknesses -Low labour productivity due to lack of formal training While the craftsmen are skilled, their efficiency could be vastly improved with formal training which would increase productivity.

59

-Slow up gradation and integration of technology The craftsmen tend to stick to the old ways of the craft and are uncertain about using machines to help make the process easier and faster. They also do not have easy access to technology along with a lack of knowledge on how to use it.

-Low number of organised product manufacturers The number of units that have a well organised team of craftsmen is very low. This not only leads to a significant decrease in productivity; it also helps the middle men cheat the craftsmen out of the income they deserve.

-Inadequate market study and marketing strategy The craft itself has potential to grow in terms of target audience and product categories. A detailed market study will help the craft stay relevant and keep up with the quick changing trends.

Opportunities -Growing international and domestic market The constantly growing markets have a vast potential for the growth of the Indian leather industry.

-Fast changing fashion trends It is essential that the craft accepts modern technology to increase productivity which will enable them to stay relevant in an ever evolving market.

-Need to open shops all across the country While they already sell their products in a few major cities, the domestic market has huge potential for the craft.

-Product diversification Leather product apart from chappals need to be explored. There is a huge market for leather bags, belts and other accessories.

60

Threats -Increasing labour cost With the increase in education and migration to cities, the number of craftsmen is decreasing rapidly as the younger generations aren’t as interested in continuing the craft. This has led to an increase in the limited labour costs.

-Entry of multinationals in the domestic market This has increased the competition that the craft faces.

-Stiff competition from other countries Countries like China, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam, and Brazil have a better global performance than India in the global leather and leather products market.

61

Government Association Leather Industries Development Corporation of Maharashtra (LIDCOM) was initially formed on 1st May, 1974. Their head office is located in Mumbai with selling centres in Bandra, Vashi, Dhule, Jalgaon, Solapur and Nanded. They manufacture a number of products including safety shoes, sandals, chappals, kolhapuri chappals, fancy shoes, jungle boots, conductor cash bags, office bags, and oxford shoes. Their manufacturing centres are mainly located in Kolhapur, Dariyapur (Amravati district), Limbada (Hingoli district), and Satara.

The corporation worships Sant Rohidas who is their main guru. Their major objectives areTo develop the leather business in the state The development of other backward class workers To develop the leather business technology To create a market for leather articles To promote leather business in the state

62

Government Policies LIDCOM has a few policies and schemes in place to aid the fulfilment of their objectives.

-The corporation provides a 50% subsidy to new business ventures and a loan is also provided from national banks.

-Skilled technical training is provided to craftsmen wanting to learn and start new businesses.

-The corporation helps craftsmen get loans through the National Scheduled Castes Finance and Development Corporation (NSFDC).

-A woman welfare scheme is in place to obtain loans through the NSFDC for business benefits.

-The women farmer scheme makes women with agricultural land on their name eligible for financial benefits with only a 5% interest on loans.

-The corporation also has an educational loan scheme where a loan of 10 lakhs is provided the willing craftsmen for a national level education while 20 lakhs along with an interest of only 4 % is provided for an education abroad.

63

Future Prospects Kolhapur Chappal Craft has a lot of potential to grow in the future in the domestic as well as the international market. The craft is facing major threats in the current atmosphere due to a lot of factors.

There is an added competition in the entire leather market due to the emergence of multinationals and international imports. Animal activists also are a hurdle that the craft must overcome. The traditional use of animal leather is not ideal for the current politically correct climate. Another major threat is the artisan’s refusal to learn and adapt to new technological developments. this reduces their efficiency and makes them lag in the market. The craft is also facing a steady decline due to a lack of innovation. The artisans only focus on the chappals and that does not help the craft’s

relevance.

One change the artisans could make is innovation. Experimenting and branching out into other products will not only increase their target audience but will also capture the audience’s attention in a whole new way. A few products that we feel would be a great addition would be belts, bags including but not limited to wallets, sling bags, and laptop sleeves. A whole range of accessories could be introduced as well, such as jewellery like earrings and chokers, or watch straps and even clip on bow ties. Another untapped market is stationery. Leather covered books and journals and even passport covers with traditional designs are very appealing to a whole range of young audiences who look for minimal ways to add the Indian culture to their aesthetic.

64

While the government association LIDCOM already has a number of schemes in place for the betterment of the craft and upliftment of the artisans, a lot more can be done.

Upon interaction with the artisans, we were told about how major e-commerce sites like Amazon and E-bay often cheat this small cottage industry. A particular experience was with an Amazon seller who bought a number of pairs and then returned them with a lot of missing pieces months later. The storage had also ruined a certain quantity. We feel like the government association should keep up with the growing digital scenario and set up an e-commerce site for the sale of these

Other crafts of Kolhapur

labour is locally sourced. The products however, are sold in most major cities. These units mostly dabbled in idol making and other religious statues. One artisan we spoke to, who identified himself as Ajit, confided in us that it was an ancestral skill as well. His father and grandfather were involved in the craft and he had joined hardly a year back. He also told us that the artisans were also often the ones who designed what they made. The products were sold at pretty sizeable range with the smallest going for Rs. 1200 while some statues being sold for as high as Rs. 20,000.

Kolhapuri is truly a beautiful city with a deeply ingrained culture. This has led to it becoming a centre for a plethora of crafts that are beguilingly gorgeous.

The craftsmen residing in this city have a wide gamut of skills they can boast of.

While exploring the place we stumbled across one other craft on the way to Panhala Fort that captured our eyes in an instant. On the side of a small road was a huge pile of seemingly ordinary rubble. It was only upon close inspection that we saw perfectly carved statues of gray stone shining through it. Stone carving is not the craft we went there to learn about, but it was a pleasant discovery nonetheless.

The two sites we stopped at were owned by the same man, Bajirao Moore. While we didn’t get a chance to talk to him, we did get to talk to the craftsmen working for him. Stone carving as it turns out, is mostly based in the city itself. The raw material as well as the

65

References http://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/151087/8/08_chapter%201.pdf http://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/147247/9/09%20introduction%20and%20 research%20methodology.pdf http://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/147247/15/15%20findings,%20suggestions%20 and%20conclusion.pdf http://www.ipindia.nic.in/gi.htm The experience and knowledge of the skilled craftsmen of Kolhapur

66

Glossary Bhel: a savoury snack Pav Bhaji: a fast food dish consisting of a thick vegetable curry, fried and served with bread Batata Vada: potato fritters Patta: strap or belt Veni: braid Gota: appliquĂŠ technique embroidery originated from Rajasthan Kaan: here, sides of the chappal Paramparik: traditional

67

Avni Jain Hiranshi Kamdar Kartik Khemani Nikita Singh Thapa Rasika Marathe Shreyoshi Mitra Fashion Communication 2016 - 2020

68