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CopyrightŠ 2017 NIFT All right reserved, No part of this document covered by the copyright hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means graphics electronic or mechanical including photocopying, recording, taping and scanning without the permission of the copyright owner. National Institute of Fashion Technology, Rae Bareli 2
DECLARATION We hereby declare that the information given in this document is authentic and the copyright to reproduce this document in any form is reserved to NIFT Rae Bareli. The diagnostic study was conducted between 29/05/2017 to 4/06/2017 and the information is valid for the year 2017-18. Ishita Keserwani Pooja Narula Priya Chauhan Shradha Verma Shreshth Gupta Shubhangi Maheshwari Vidhi Vaid Sachin Verma (Assistant Professor) NIFT Raebareli
Shreysha Rai ( ) NIFT Raebareli
Batch 2015-2019 (Department of Fashion Communication)
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WOODEN TOYS These are love of baby girls and boys, These have their own beauty and Space in this plastic age. They don’t harm health and their Simplicity saves wealth. These aren’t just wooden toys. These are living doll for baby girls And breathing fast car for boys . These are rare because of their unique art. Still they hold a huge space in heart. These are tiny little wooden toys. Some for me and some for you. Some for them who have age in little number of few. These are cute and so amazing. A look at them finely. Put the heart to racing. A dancing doll and racing car These amazing wooden toys are the baby boy’ yaar and baby’s girl’s pyaar. -Priya Chauhan
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Acknowledgement This project would not have been possible without the help and kind support of various individuals. Every person we met or spoke to helped us in moving a step further towards the betterment of this project. We are extremely thankful to NIFT Rae Bareli for providing us with an opportunity to be a part of this cluster project. The preparation of their report would not have been possible without the valuable contribution of Ms. Shresha Rai Centre Coordinator, Department of Fashion Communication, and Mr. Sachin Verma Assistant Professor for guiding us to lead the documentation and conceptualization of this project. We would like to thank Mr. S.A. Venkatasubramanian (Cluster Innovation Centre) who works closely with cluster research; his initial guidance played a very important role in the understanding of the entire project. We thank the artist and their family for inviting us into their humble abode and showing generosity by answering our questionnaires and sharing the knowledge of an age-old tradition, we would like to thank each other’s for providing necessary input for the competition of this document. We hope that our document serve as valuable resources for future work in the area.
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Preface “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.� – Mark Twain This city is home to age old traditions and crafts, which is being passed down from generation to generation. We are thankful for the opportunity given to us to study an Indian traditional craft. We chose lacquer/ wooden toys, a small cluster based in Benares as our area of study. This cluster is known for its both hand painted lacquer toys and wax painted toys. Our group explored a small town, Kashmiriganj where this cluster is located. During this field exploration, we interacted with lots of artisans. We were inspired by our interaction with the artisans, our workspace and our learning about their lifestyles. As we walked across the town, we discovered that the artisans had their own individual workshops. It was an invaluable lesson and a great experience for us. We, now have a better understanding of the craft and the people involved with it. We are now aware of the current market situation and a clear understanding of the processes, trends and setbacks faced by the artisans. This has truly been an enlightening experience.
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Objective To study the craft of Banaras (Varanasi) in detail and to derive intervention in all possible sectors for further the development of this cluster. To evaluate the current status socio-economic profile of the cluster. To evaluate the current status of wooden lacquer toys in terms of the promotional, advertisement, make aware about the craft, roll of support of organization. To highlight a constrain faced by the cluster and suggest some action plan for future. Our purpose was to go Varanasi and visit the craft artisans and spread awareness among them about to new technology which takings news to spread their craft business, instead of working with the middle men and not directly connected with the persons.
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Chapter I :
Introduction
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VARA 16
NASI 17
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The Spiritual City The holy destination, Varanasi is a medium sized city which has been a home to many generations. This city offers a spiritual experience is beyond words and attracts enthusiasts of arts and literature from all over the world. It is a mirror of age old tradition and truly represents its rich history in every nook and corner. It is famous of its spiritualism, mythology, philosophy and culture. It is associated with Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. This is apparent with the numerous sects, temples, ghats and Stupas.
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Literature, music , vedic philosophy , arts , crafts and architecture are the crucial exponents of Banaras. Ganges acts as the major influnence on most of the Hindu festivals as people can been seen using the bathing ghats. Many social and religious customs co-exists in the city , people wear Ghamcha (Red cloth or scarf ) around their neck and drink thandhai which has become an important cultural identity of Varanasi. The city has grown culturally and economically, and has become a hub for many tourists and travellers. Banaras has grown with its age. Traditional drama, music and entertainment found a place in the hearts of people of Varanasi. Highly developed folk dances, dramas and songs act as a major attaraction for the people. Just like the rich culture and tradition, Varanasi is also famous for its rich variety of food and different authentic cuisines. From the spicy North indian food to chatpati ‘papri – chat ‘ varanasi is a paradise for foodies. The most famous religious attraction of the city are the temples, specially the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. In hindu religion it is believed that the soul-cleansing experience is the glimplse of the Jyotiling, it acts as a merit for the people who come from all over India to visit this place.Temples act as a picture of the Indian living culture .
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About the Craft Lacquer toys are a cultural icon across the globe. Their roots can be found in East-Asian countries as well as Europe. Each place has its own distinct styles which makes it unique to that place. In India, a small village called Channapatna is the biggest cluster of wood turning and lacquer toys. It originates from the period when Tipu Sultan was the ruler of Mysore. He was so fascinated with this craft that he invited artisans from Persia to teach this craft to the locals. This cluster started around 1000 years back. Lacquer toys took birth in a small town, Mirzapur and from there people began visiting Varanasi. Although this craft is very old but it has been documented since 1941 as people visited Varanasi from Mirzapur more frequently. It all started from selling farming tools. From farming tools, they got inspired and then they were encouraged for making lacquer toys. Lacquer toys are known for their traditional speciality not only in India but across the globe. They are innovative toys and eco-friendly and mainly made of non-toxic vegetable color dye. They are known for their highly fashionable appeal which is made with bright and vivid colors.
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Chapter II :
Process
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Raw Material Wood There are different types of woods that are used in the process of lacquer making toys. The selection of wood is based on the use of the client, market and finishing. The woods that are majorly used are eucalyptus, koraiya, lukhana and sheesham.
Eucalyptus
Eucalyptus, scientifically known as Eucalyptus globules, is reddish-brown wood which darkens as it seasons. Its sapwood is pale cream. The grain of this wood is slightly interlocked, with fiddleback patterns. It is a soft wood with coarse texture which is best suited for turning and lac application. It does not require any chemical treatment and is easy to saw, sand, plane and polish, and takes paint well. Cut eucalyptus will stay strong and does not break while working upon.
Sheesham
Sheesham, scientifically known as Dalbergia Sissoo, is deepbrown wood with darker streaks which makes the wood attractive. It is found mainly in Punjab and Uttar Pradesh. The wood is highly durable with less moisture content and uniform coarse texture that provides a good polish. One of the property of this wood is that it is resistance to termites.
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Chapda Chapda is the solid glue that comes from the secretion of the female bug. This insects live on the host trees like Dhak( Butea monosperma), Ber(Ziziphus mauritiana) and Kusum(Schleichera oleosa) that grow usually in West Bengal and Bihar. Chapda is scraped off from the trees in the flake form which is melted using coal at a low temperature which is fused together to obtain the desired form.
Resin Gum Resin is a metabolic by-product of plant tissues which is secreted from a coniferous trees. They are brittle, amorphous, lustrous and semi-transparent in nature. Resin is mixed with chapda which helps it to melt quickly. They are used as varnishes or as a protective coatings which prevents woods to degrade.
Colors The color used are usually in powder form. Once the chapda is properly melt, different colours are mixed with titanium dioxide to get the desired colours. The colours that are used to get the desired colours are: Peela- Orambine Gulabi- Rodamine Narangi- Acetic Acid Baingni- Magenta
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Preparation and storage of raw material Wood Preparation Wood comes directly from the mill which is not appropriate for the product and also it has huge amount of water content so it is dried first before making any product as it has the tendency to absorb water. Wood needs to get dried out completely because if it’s not seasoned it can create a crack. The key preparation for the process of drying wood is called seasoning of wood.
Air drying Air drying is all about drying the timber which is dried by exposing it to air. This technique is more of making stack of wood which is stored in a cool, dry, and shady place. The drying is largely dependent on climatic conditions. The timber should be arranged in a way so that there is uniform flow of air. The moisture can get controlled by using mineral oil. Wood can be piled in a way where the timber should be placed with spaces in between to circulate the air flow.
Artificial Seasoning Artificial seasoning is a process in which wood is fired to make water contents dry. The wood is piled up in a manner with fire at the ends. In artificial drying, the unsaturated air is used. Sometimes the top layer of wood is scraped because the wood develops a dark layer of carbon deposits.
Wood storing The wood is stored in cells. Wood absorbs water so it is placed where there is unsaturated air. Woods are arranged in a way so that there is proper air circulation.
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Lac Preparations: Lac is a natural resin obtained from the lac insects, female bugs. These insects settle down on the branches of the host trees and secrete the pigment. The coated branches are cut and harvested. The lac is scraped off from the trees in the flake form which is melted using coal at a low temperature[1]. It is heated with the help of sticks which are used to suspend the lac over the heat[2]. After sometime, the lac becomes semi-solid and the resin is added[3] to it which helps the lac to melt quickly. Once the lac is completely melted[4-5], Titanium Dioxide is mixed[6] with different composition of colors[7] is added to the lac to get the desired colors[8]. Yellow: Turmeric powder Blue: Indigo powder Orange: Kum Kum powder Red: Manjishta Green: Indigo + Turmeric
Lac Storing Lac is stored in the form of sticks[9]. The hot, colored lac is rolled and cut into small sticks. These sticks are stored. The lac should be kept away from the sun as it may cause the lac to lose its color. The lac can also be damaged by the water but not by the humidity.
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Tools & Machinery • Chisels 1.Goru chisel (nail shaped chisel) Made with iron, this chisel has two sides. One end of the tool is shaped to fit the crossed wood, while the other end is shaped like a nail. This tool is used for carving the desired shape and curves to the wood. 2.Mann chisel: The end shaped like a rectangle, this tool is used mainly for cutting off or carving the wood. 3.Low chisel: Similar looking to the gorn chisel, this tool is used to carve holes onto the products. 4.Kuja chisel This tool is used for making relatively smaller and finer carvings onto the products.
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• Saw Machine This is a hand working machine which is used to cut large pieces of wood into small ones. This machine has a revolving saw which is attached to a chain system which uses the push and pull technique to rotate the saw.
• Lathe Machine Nowadays replaced by electric lathes, hand lathes are used to hand paint the designs and dolls. The lathe machine is fitted between two crossed wood pieces. This machine, running on ‌.HP, is connected to a belt. One side of the lathe machine is connected tp crossed wood, while the other side is fitted to the raw wood to be sculpted. Lathe machine is the main or base tool used for carving, painting and polishing the wood to create the final product.
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Process Sourcing: Procurement of the wood from the jungle to be used in the making of the products. The wood usually used is hale wood or ivory wood, koraiya eucalyptus, and at times, sheesham.
Seasoning: The wood is thoroughly dried to reduce the moisture content of the wood before using it for the wood turning process.
Preparation: The skin or rind of the wood is peeled off. The logs are cut-off according to the required size and design. The figure design is then sketched onto the log and the extra wood is chopped off.
Turning: The cut wood log is placed between the two points of the lathe machine. The wood log is attached to the lathe machine at one end. The motor run machine spins the log while a badithi (an axe-like tool) is used to cut off sections of the wood figure. Chisels are used to carve forms and designs onto the toys and figures. Finally, the surface is cleaned with a sand paper to create a smooth surface.
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Coloring: The lac is applied onto the carved product. Lacquer sticks are used, which due to the friction from the wood turning, melts and forms a layer of lacquer color on the product. Once the color dries, fine details are drawn onto the products using squirrel hair brushes.
Polishing: The colored and detailed artwork is lastly coated with a coat of wax for sheen and luster.
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Chapter III :
Market Research
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Product Range PRODUCTS
PRICE RANGE (in Rs.)
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Beads
15-30
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Keychains
25-40
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Pencils
25-40
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Hairpin
50-100
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Candle Stand
50-150
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Birds
50-150
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Rattle
50-150
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Hangings
50-300
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Chess Pieces
70-150
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Bracelets
150-200
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Kitchen Sets
150-300
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Eating Birds
150-300
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Ganesh ji
150-300
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Russian Dolls
150-400
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Wooden Containers
150-400
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Earrings
160-250
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Bobbleheads
180-300
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Necklace
200-400
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Napkin Holder
250-400
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Rickshaw
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Kettle
450-500
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Bawri Baja
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Panchmukhi hanuman ji
450-600 500-1500 800-1600 41
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Market Research During the survey, we got the chance to learn about the complete process of making of wooden lacquer toys. Our observation and analysis led to the fact that the craftsmen, industry owners and other related people are facing many problems and difficulties. There is a lack of infrastructure, proper equipment, safety standard and updated technology. Artisans were working with their self-made machinery and there was no proper structure for labour division. On the other hand, the market chain is as old as the tradition of wooden toys making. The shop owners, barely have any online presence and they are selling wooden toys in the old traditional way. The people who used to buy the wooden toys in the city have kept their loyalty since ages. The major market for the wooden toys are the tourist who come in the city and take away these toys as souvenirs.
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Primary Data Analysis 15%
20%
20%
10%
Types of Wood used
Highest rated Product
50%
20% 25% 30%
10%
Sindoora
Dibbiya
Russian Doll
Bobble Head
Others
Eucalyptus
Sheesham
Lalchandan
Haldu
15%
15%
30%
Work Experience
40%
Occupation 25%
30%
20%
15%
10% Wood Carving
Wood Cutting
Polishing
Coloring
Hand Painting
0-2 Years
2-4 Years
4-6 Years
More than 6 Years
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Strengths 1. Demand/Export The demand of Lacquer Toys is very huge in India, as well as, in the international market. Especially in UK, USA, UAE and Europe. 2. NGO and Government support There are various agencies which support the art and wooden crafts of Varanasi. These agencies not only provide monitory support but also make awareness among the artisans about the new technologies and products.
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3. Geographical Indication Wooden Lacquer toys are Government approved and has a geographical indication.
Threats
1. Plastic toys Plastic and Chinese toys are the major competitors for the Indian wooden toys market. They act as the major threat because people are getting away from the Indian Handicraft. 2. Technology Video games and technology is increasing with the higher race. Because of that, majority of children are getting away from the toys, which are available in the market especially the wooden toys. 3. Artisans Artisans are not getting paid enough resulting in the lack of artisan’s interest in the handicrafts and because of this, they are leaving and opting for the different job. 54
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Weakness
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1. Wood High quality wood like sheesham is scarce which results in unrefined products. 2. Electricity Electricity is limited to 2-3 hours a day and mojorly artisans don’t have an electicity connection. 3. Workspace and Workforce The artisans workforce majorly consists of older generation. The young generation is avoiding gettinging in this field because of lack of opprtunities. 4. Marketing The wooden lacquer toys market is greatly affected by the market of plastic and electronic toys. Because of these toys, the traditional toy demands is going down.
Opportunities
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1. E-commerce, wholesalers and retail market: Wholesalers and retail market plays an important role in the demand of the local wooden toys. New opportunities came with E-commerce which were not available earlier. 2.Tourists Scope of major international recognition is possible as Varanasi is a hub of the world’s travellers.
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Artisans’ Profile Ram Khilwan Singh Age: 82 years Education: 2 pass Language: Hindi and Bhojpuri Occupation: craftsmen (artisan) Annual Income: 3.5 lakh per anum Address: B-24/49, Kashmiri Ganj, Banaras, Uttar Pradesh, India Phone Number: 9415223770 Email: Rameshwar_singh@yahoo.com Experience: 66 years Religious: Hindu
ABOUT HIM:
Ram Khilwan Singh is an artisan, National award winner in his profession. He started his career as a craftsman and later in this adopted by his generation as a profession. He is very knowledgeable person and knows about the craft very well because of so many year of experience.
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Ram Chandra Singh Contact Number: 9415223770 Artisan’s Address: Kashmiriganj Artisan’s Age: 52 years Artisan’s Sex: Male Education Level Of Artisan: Secondary Craft: Lacquer Toys Years Of Practicing The Craft: 8 years Currently Monthly Income: INR 7000 Type of House: Rented Skill Level Of Artisan’s: Skilled
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Pappu Khan Contact Number Artisan’s Address: Khojwan Artisan’s Age: 45 years Artisan’s Sex: Male Education Level Of Artisan: Secondary Craft: Lacquer Toys Years Of Practicing The Craft: 4 years Currently Monthly Income :INR 6000 Type of House :Rented Skill Level Of Artisan’s: Skilled
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Amit Singh Contact Number: 9026270161 Artisan’s Address: Khojwan Artisan’s Age: 32 years Artisan’s Sex: Male Education Level Of Artisan: Secondary Craft: Lacquer Toys Years Of Practicing the Craft: 8 years Currently Monthly Income: INR 7000 Type of House: Rented Skill Level Of Artisan’s: Skilled
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Rakesh Singh Contact Number: 9499201595 Artisan’s Address: Khojwan Artisan’s Age: 21 years Artisan’s Sex: Male Education Level Of Artisan: Secondary Craft: Lacquer Toys Years Of Practicing The Craft: 4 years Currently Monthly Income: INR 6000 Type of House: Rented Skill Level Of Artisan’s: Skilled
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Chapter IV :
Suggestions
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Awareness Workshop We organised a Workshop on Assi Ghat for the promotion of the artisans. We also sold the products to those who wanted to bring these pieces of art in thier homes. We spread awareness about the craft, the making and about the artisans by gathering audience near our workshop. We explained the working process and conditions of the artisans. The workshop was also covered by two television reporters from UP News and K News.
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Website: A website design for an informative website promoting the craft and the artisans of lacquer toys, by awaring readers about varanasi and it’s crafts and culture. The reason behind making this website is to attract a larger domestic as well as international market, and to make them aware of the the craft and the products.
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Calendar Calandars are a small desk accessories which are perfect for gifting and always remain in view. We made a calendar decorated with illustrations of products. These can be used as souvenier for the tourists and the travellers, all the while promoting the craft it represents.
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Flyer Informative flyer informing people about the craft, the products, the benfits of the products and the condition of the artisans and craft today.
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Packaging: The packaging consists of a simle paper bag with the logo printed on top. The Logo: We made a simple line silhouette of the sindoora, since it represents the beginning and the identity of the craft. Sindoora was the first product made using this craft and also the product to obtain the Geographical Indication from Human Welfare Association in Chennai. The line art symbolises the simplicity and elegance of the craft.
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Social Media Awareness: As a majority of the population of the world is present online on social media, we felt using a popular social media platform like Instagram may help spreading the word about the craft and the products.
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Conclusion In our seven days visit to the city of learning – Varanasi, we were introduced to the artisans, retailers and NGO’s ofh the wooden toys craft. Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh was and remains to be the prime center of wooden toys renowned for its smooth finish look, timeless work for hand carved and painted toys and all that bright beautiful colors. This art has been able to sustainable since 100 years ago and often runs in families as tradition. Within the city of Banaras, we expslored the areas of Khojwana, Kashmiri Ganj to learn the basics of the production of the process right from the procurement of raw material, to the creation of finish and smoothness of the products. During the visit we interacted with the artisans and came face to face with their joys and grievances while working with this craft. The reward being made to the employee on daily basis or on the basis of their experience with the craft. The artisans are very skilled and high in spirit and create the products of unmatched quality and value, but their hard work does not receive the due rewards in terms of the price they get for their products. Besides this we study the problems that the employees are facing and give the suggestions for the betterment of the services provided by them and work for the enrichment of this craft.
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Experience “Ghat - Ghat ka sangam� Varanasi (Banaras/ Kashi) is the oldest living city of India. Once we start exploring the dingy lanes we feel like walking in the history of pages and that is when we came to know about one of the famous crafts of this place, the Lacquer Toys. We interacted with the artisans and understood their lifestyles. We got a live demonstration of the lac making process. This experience was great and we were glad to be a part of this craft. We learnt a lot about the production of the toys and the recent situation of the market. We understand the entire process and the problems faced by the artisans during sourcing of raw materials. We interview a lot of artisans and gained knowledge. The overall experience was very unique and overwhelming.
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Annexure I Q1. How much work experience do you have in this field? 0-2 years 2-4 years 4-6 years More than 6 years Q2. Size of family unit: Male ( 2 ) Female ( 4 ) Children ( - ) Q3. Education: 10th passed 12th passed Graduate Q4. Salary: Rs 2500- Rs 5000 Rs 5000- Rs 7500 Rs 7500-Rs 10000 More than Rs 10000 Q5. Other expenses: Electricity Bills Household bills Q6. How many products do you make in a day? 0-10 10-20 20-30 More than 30
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Q7. In which part of making lacquer toys are you trained? o Wood carving Wood cutting Coloring Finishing/Polishing Hand Painting
Q8. Do you have saving account in: Bank Post Office Any Other No Q9. Dwelling Own house Rented Q10. Who gives you the design? Own Trader/Agent Old Pattern Designers Q11. Have you received any training recently for upgrading your skill? Yes No Q12. For how many hours do you work in a day? 0-2 hours 2-4 hours 4-6 hours More than 6 hours Q13. How many maximum colors are used in one product? 3-4 5-6 7-8 More than 8 Q14. How many types of wood you haveused? Haldu Lalchandan Eucalyptus Sheesham Q15. In how many places your product is distributed? National International Both Q16. Which product do you make the most? Sindoora Bobble Head Russian Doll Any other (please specify)
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Annexure II Name: Age: Gender: Contact details: Name of NGO: Q1. Size of family unit: Male ( 2 ) Female ( 3 ) Children ( 3 ) Q2. How many artisans work under your guidance? 0-10 10-20 20-30 More than 30 Q3. How many products do artisans make in a day? 0-10 10-20 20-30 More than 30 Q4. In which part of making lacquer toys are your artisans trained? o Wood carving Wood cutting Coloring Finishing/Polishing Hand Painting Q5. Which product is in more demand? Sindoora Bobble Head Russian Doll Rickshaw Any Other (please specify) _________________________________________________________
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Q6. For how many hours do your artisans work in a day? 0-2 hours 2-4 hours 4-6 hours More than 6 hours Q7. How many maximum colors are used in one product? 3-4 5-6 7-8 More than 8 Q8. In how many places your products are distributed? National International Both Q9. What changes have you seen after getting G.I.? _________________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ Q10. How many types of product do you sell? ________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________Q11. How did you get G.I. for this craft? _________________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ Q12. What do you think about the scope and future of lacquer toys? _________________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________
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Annexure III Name: Age: Gender: Contact details: Q1. What was the first product from which it started? Sindoora Bobble Head Russian Doll Rickshaw Any other (please specify) _________________________________________________________ Q2. Who make products for you? Artisans Own Both Q3. Do you try to incorporate current trends in new products? Yes No Q4. Did you discover something new? Machine Tools Colors Any other (please specify) _________________________________________________________ Q5. How many artisans work under your guidance? 0-10 10-20 20-30 More than 30 Q6. How many products do artisans make in a day? 0-10 10-20 20-30 More than 30
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Q7. In which part of making lacquer toys are your artisans trained? Wood carving Wood cutting Colouring Finishing/Polishing Hand Painting Q8. What products are in demand? Sindoora Bobble Head Russian Doll Rickshaw Any other (please specify) _________________________________________________________ Q9. For how many hours do your artisans work in a day? 0-2 hours 2-4 hours 4-6 hours More than 6 hours Q10. According to you Handwork is better or Machine work? Handwork Machine work Q11. Where are your products distributed? National International Q12. What kinds of wood have you used? Haldu Lalchandan Eucalyptus Sheesham Q13. Do you make personalized products? Yes No Q14. For which product you have received National Award? Sindoora Lamp Bobble Head Russian doll 85
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