Almafi grille story revised

TASTE OF THE TREASURE COAST

Italiandining

old-fashioned way the

BY SIOBHAN FITZPATRICK AUSTIN PHOTOS BY Ed Drondoski

A

ll too often when we dine out today service is rushed, even at high-end restaurants. Too many restaurateurs seem more interested in making money by turning tables quickly than ensuring a relaxed dining experience for their customers.

But not so at Amalfi Grille in Vero. Owner Bob Rose prides himself on limiting the number of reservations per night to ensure that every customer can enjoy a multi-hour dinner. “We do it the old-fashioned way,� Rose said. >>

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Customers enjoy food cooked from scratch an a relaxed atmosphere at Amalfi Grill.

Indeed, a dinner at Amalfi is special. The restaurant evokes a coastal Italian ambience with its Mediterranean blue and yellow colors painting the walls. From the moment you’re ushered to your table, you receive first-class service. It’s the kind of place where a customer can truly unwind from a busy day, slowly enjoying a glass of fine wine (Rose tastes more

than 1,000 a year from all over the world) while waiting for your antipasti.

What Amalfi is not is a place to go if you are in a rush. “It takes longer here, so it’s not for everyone,” said Rose, 54.

Why the wait? “Because everything is made fresh,” said chef Chester Perrotti, who is known as Chet. >>

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Chef Chester ‘Chet’ Perrotti and Amalfi Grille owner Bob Rose are childhood friends.

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Even with all this room we still have to turn people away sometimes.

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Amalfi Grille owner Bob Rose

And he really means everything. While most kitchens pre-cook pastas and meats and open mussels and clams long before the first diner is seated, placing them on steam tables known as “scoop, scoop and go,” Perrotti and his crew begin the preparation only after the order has been turned in to the kitchen.

For real foodies, the wait is not a problem. Most actually enjoy it because there is wine to sip, bread to munch and conversations to be had while a delicious starter is on its way. In short, it’s like eating a meal in Italy, which is precisely what Rose had in mind when he opened Amalfi in 2009.

At that time the restaurant was on Royal Palm Point and seated only 65, which Rose says was not large enough. “I was turning people away,” he said. When the current space on Miracle Mile became available in 2012 with its 150 seats, he jumped on it. “It was perfect timing,” said Rose.

Some loyal customers miss Amalfi’s original restaurant.

While it was smaller, it had an open kitchen where they could watch their meals being prepared. But for Perrotti and his crew, the change is a great improvement because they have more room to cook and more equipment to work with. “Even with all this room we still have to turn people away sometimes,” Rose said proudly.

What’s Amalfi’s magic? “I don’t know. Maybe it’s because everything is done to order, but I don’t know,” said Perrotti.

Or maybe it’s because the restaurant makes most of its pasta fresh every day, including their cannelloni, ravioli and fettuccini. What’s more, Amalfi serves center-cut certified Angus beef; its steaks are one of its top sellers.

But of course, its Italian fare is hugely popular, including the Fettuccini Arogosta (homemade fettuccini with Maine lobster meat, shrimp, shallots, and peas in a zesty marinara sauce) and the Penne alla Vodka (penne covered with prosciutto, mushrooms and San Marzano tomatoes in a vodka cream sauce.)

Rose was inspired to open Amalfi five years ago. He owned a Mexican restaurant, Baja’s in Orange, Conn., and wanted >> 4

TASTE OF THE TREASURE COAST to do something closer to his maternal home.

“My mother’s family was Genovese,” he said.

He moved to Vero from Connecticut because his son, 19-year-old Ryan, who works part time in the restaurant while attending Indian River State College, had asthma, and needed humid air. In addition, his cousin, Dr. Ralph Rosato, a plastic surgeon, lives in Vero and was familiar with the city. So far, so good. “I love Vero and love Amalfi. My whole family does.”

Amalfi is truly a family affair. Not only does Ryan work there, but his older brother, 21-year-old Christian, helps out as well.

In addition, Rose’s wife, Pilar, handles the bookkeeping. Perrotti is a childhood friend, just like fathers and grandfathers were before them. As Rose walks around the restaurant talking with customers and his chef, it is clear that he loves what he does. “Boss is the most passionate person I’ve ever worked for,” said John Zimmerman, who runs the two bars at Amalfi and has been in the restaurant business for more than 20 years. “You’re always proud of working here.”

Although the restaurant has been successful, Rose is taking nothing for granted.

“We’ve been very fortunate from the moment we opened,” he said. “And I’m constantly trying to get more efficient and make positive changes. We’re never satisfied. I never say ‘This is good enough. Now we can relax.’ ”

One of of Amalfi’s most popular dishes, above, is Arogosta Fra Diavlo, Maine lobster tail with mussels and clams over linguini with a spicy marinara sauce.

Warm colors and banquette seating, left, welcome customers along with the Italian words for food, wine, family and friendship.

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