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“A train pulls through every 15 minutes, scattering away the shoppers and shopkeepers in a jiffy....”
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Know before you go! SUMMER SPECIAL ISSUE 1
Nǐ hǎo, Taiwan! Meet East Asia’s underrated beauty High on Champagne Inside the intoxicating heart of France
Ride the Circle Train Roam Rangoon like a local
Picture Perfect Kamran Ali captures a magical sunrise PLUS: GUJARAT • DELHI • SWITZERLAND • RAS AL KHAIMAH
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Publisher & Editor: Shubhra Directors: Sanjay Chhabra Manish Ahluwalia Creative Consultant: Mamta Sharma Photo Editor: Nitin Gopal Srivastava Design Director: Madhu Rana International Correspondents: USA: Kristen Cashman, Ted Grinewich-Yonashiro, Sinead Tyrone Africa: Nirav Shah London: Shozeb Haider, Olesya Nova, Christopher Brown Holland: MariĂŤl van den Donk Serbia: Anna Rostokina Italy: Paola Peruzzo Sweden: Ida Joseffin Eriksson Austria: Nina Wildzeisz-Rezner Features Writer: Siddharth Birla Ad Sales & Marketing: Pankaj Sahni Editorial Interns: Tanya Anand Design Intern: Mohita Kaul Photography Assistant: Dipayan Some Social Media Intern: Benjamine Mathew Idikulay Published From: 991 Sector A Pocket C Vasant Kunj, New Delhi 110070 Contact: info@travelsecrets.in Subscription inquiries: info@travelsecrets.in/+91-9958383358 Printed at: Nikhil Offset, DSIDC Shed No. 223, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase I, New Delhi 110020
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ummer is here and everyone is busy searching for that perfect ‘offbeat’ destination. Dear readers, relax! We’ve got the base covered for you. Allow us to plan that perfect holiday for you. Catch a flight to Taiwan. The Portuguese called it “Ilha Formosa” or the beautiful island, and rightly so as TS writer Siddharth Birla found out. With its beautiful landscapes, heritage-rich capital, diverse folk traditions and feted night market scene, this sweet potato shaped island offers a continent-sized travel list. And while you’re there, don’t forget to scribble your wish on a sky lantern. Who knows, the year of monkey might bring you good luck and grant you another holiday, maybe? I am delighted to show you around the wine belt of France, where the towns, vineyards and people all give off the heady whiff of champagne! Foodies have a reason to rejoice too as we explore the southern Thai town of Trang, where the Chinese, Muslim and Thai traditions have arrived to a delicious culinary compromise. Intrepid and interesting: those are the kind of stories that Shozeb Haider regularly brings our way. This time, it’s a tour of the Yangon Circular. An offbeat journey with dramatic pops of colour! Looking to map out the domestic lands? Follow Mohita Kaul’s temple trail in Saurashtra as she cruises with the sea gulls and spots a lion along the way. In this issue, you’ll also meet: a famous solo traveller and blogger, the cycle-tour guy in Delhi, and a passionate food lover from Paris. Safe travels, and happy times.
Shubhra Krishan, Publisher & Editor
travelsecretsmag.com
MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 7
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8 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
SUNRISE in CHILE My name is Kamran Ali. I was born and raised in Pakistan but studied and settled in Germany. I hold a doctoral in computer sciences. About a year ago I resigned from my job in order to travel around the world by bicycle. Last year, I finished a 10 thousand kilometre bicycle journey from Germany to Pakistan in six months across 16 countries. www.facebook.com/KamranOnBike
Turn to page to learn how Kamran captured this picture perfect moment in Chile.
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10 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
HOW I TOOK THIS SHOT
n February 2016, I was hiking in the Torres del Paine National Park, Chile with two French cyclists that I had met during my PanAmerican bicycle tour. After a long day of bus rides and eight kilometres of rough trekking, we found ourselves in a camping site that was fully booked. With no other option, we moved on, trekking another three kilometres to the Torres Lookout. Torres Lookout provides the most amazing views of the three distinctive and magnificent towers of the Paine mountain range called Torres del Paine (Towers of blue). The towers are granite peaks, situated between the Andes Mountains and Patagonian steppe. We reached the Torres Lookout at 10 pm. As darkness fell, we rolled out our mattresses on the ground near a big rock and slipped into our sleeping bags. Our eyes failed to take in enough of the views of the Torres del Paine, the glacial Torres Lake and the surrounding peaks. The air was still, all we could hear was our own breath. The fresh air filled our lungs. The views fulfilled our souls. We set the alarm for 4 am to see the sunrise. It turned out to be one of the most magical sunrises I have ever seen. In this photo, I tried to capture the moment, as we sat captivated in awe and wonder. How I took this shot? I used my full frame Sony Alpha 7s camera to take this shot. Since I wanted to include both us and the towers, I used a wide angle lens. I used a Sony 10-18 mm lens which is actually an APSC lens, on the full frame but it works surprisingly well even without cropping. The camera was on the tripod and was triggered by the 10-second timer. ISO:1250 Shutter:1/15sec Aperture: 4.0
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Just Add Champagne 12 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
FRANCE Excuse me if I sound a touch dizzy. Champagne does that to you. The place, that is. This is the vineyard-laden heart of France, and you are always slightly high, on the scenic vistas and the sparkling bubbles. Next time you visit France, take the train from Paris to Champagne-Ardenne. It ’s intoxicating, indeed!
By Shubhra Krishan
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five croissants), the hunger pangs have begun hitting again. In France, you are always wellfed, and always hungry for more! But then again: you are in France, and the wait for good—make that gourmet—food is never more than a few metres away. And guess what: all of this lies just a heartbeat away from Paris!
Champagne Love champagne? You will adore its birthplace. Formally, the champagne producing region of France is called Reims Champagne Ardenne. Informally, think of it as mile upon mile of emerald vineyards, gallon upon gallon of the world's finest champagne, and memory after delicious memory that you will carry in your heart forever.
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Every 37 minutes, a train departs Paris for Reims Champagne Ardenne. Hop into your TGV coach, and minutes later, the view from your window changes from crusty buildings to wide-open fields. Some 45 minutes later, you are deposited at the station, from where the city is just five kilometres away. Pick up your rental car here, and get ready to coast across a slice of paradise. Note: Leave all your stresses and tensions here, you won't need them as long as you are in this region. I arrive at the station at about 11.30 on a bright April morning, and despite a sumptuous breakfast in Paris (I think I ate at
The Brasserie Le Jardin Les Crayères is located just a few minutes from the station. Its landscaped grounds set the tone for the fresh, sophisticated fare that awaits you inside. Starting with the champagne and the warm bread served with salted and unsalted butter, to the pasta with shavings of black truffle, this beautiful dining room with large glass-paned windows is deservedly a two-Michelin star winner. Sated and pleasantly dizzy, we head out toward a forest in the distance. Our next stopover is Perching Bar, which I know is going to be a unique experience. There will be more champagne to taste: Mais oui! My guide cheerfully informs me that for the three days I am here, I can expect to be tipsy!
FRANCE
So, think back to the best, quirkiest bar you have been to. You come back talking about the ambience and the music, but seldom do you hear someone say, “Oh my, what a location.” Perching Bar's simple USP is its location—on top of a tree!
Perching Bar
Our car crunches its way inside the forest, and halts outside a small cabin. We alight, then climb a mildly jiggly wooden footbridge to reach Perching Bar. Sitting at a height of 18 feet, which is more than thrice as tall as I am, the wooden bar is a smart, compact affair, but once you take your seat outside and a glass of champagne has been placed before you and you are watching the sun slide down the Champagne plains and you can hear the birds chirp, you realise you are as close to earthly paradise as it is possible! Note: The wine list here offers a selection of champagne from the great champagne houses of the region. You can clear your head later; indulge for now!
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The House of Mercier 16 Travel TravelSecrets Secrets March-April MARCH-APRIL 2016 62 2016
The region abounds in champagne houses, and the mind boggles at their range and scale and elegance! We take a tour of The House of Mercier in the town of Epernay. A lift takes you 30 metres below the earth. You now hop on to a miniature train that winds around the damp dark cellars suffused with the heady scent of champagne. It is like experiencing an architectural theatre with a whiff of history. Afterwards, you taste a flute of House champagne.
Some fascinating facts about the tour: • Eugène Mercier began constructing the cellars in 1871. it took him six years to build the 18-kilometre tunnels. • Always a showman, Mercier would give visitors tours in carriages pulled by four horses. • The Mercier cellars are among the most celebrated in France, and receive more than 100,000 visitors a year. • In the main hall, you will see the "giant wine cask," said to be the world's biggest!
FRANCE
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Epernay We now arrive in the petite town of Epernay, and those hunger pangs are striking again! Appetite-igniting red and grey interiors await us at Le theatre, another outstanding Michelin restaurant in the heart of Epernay. Fresh seasonal cuisine, best enjoyed with—what else, champagne! Sleep is sweet and deep when your head is filled with so many exquisite experiences, not to mention wine, and Hotel Jean Moet, a cosy boutique hotel offers cocoon-like comfort. The owners greet you with smiles and are eager to help you with anything from satisfying a 18 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
sudden craving for croissants to prising open a stuck bathroom door close to midnight! (Word of advice: in foreign lands, make sure you carry your cellphone into the bathroom. You never know!) Early next morning, I stroll through the town of Epernay, which as my guide Sarah Flook remarks, “lives and breathes champagne.” The streets are lined with champagne bars and stores. Florists are setting up shop. The sun sends its first glint on a shopfront. It is time for another day of discovering the hedonistic pleasures of France.
FRANCE
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Hautvillers The Cradle of Champagne Once in a lifetime, you must stop by at the village of Hautvillers. This is where Dom Perignon, the Father of Champagne, spent 47 years of his life, creating and refining champagne. He is buried at the beautiful abbey here. The quiet elegance of Hautvillers is deeply moving. Despite being ravaged and damaged during wars, the village has kept its simple soul intact. Standing here, you can gaze endlessly at the rippling sunlit vineyards that surround it. Down below, the Marne River flows. Some of the houses, perched on craggy hilltops, are the kind one's fondest real estate dreams are made up of. 20  Travel Secrets  MARCH-APRIL 2016
FRANCE
Nearly everyone in the village of Hautvillers has a handmade metal sign on their home that reflects their profession - and nearly every profession is something related to making Champagne. Back in the Middle Ages, untutored people knew from the signs what the residents of a particular house did. Today, more than 100 of these artistic signs still hang above houses. While some are still symbols of their owners' professions, others simply tell a story or mark an event. Champagne bar AU 36 is a small, open space with superb food and friendly hosts. We enjoy a sandwich and wine here, before leaving for one of the most celebrated champagne houses in all of France. MARCH-APRIL 2016  Travel Secrets  21
Reims
Champagne Pommery, Reims The only one of its kind in Champagne, this Elizabethanstyle estate was conceived and built by an enterprising widow named Mrs Pommery in the 19th century. We are given a 60-minute tour of the cellars, and the grandeur of the Gallo-Roman chalk quarries and bas-relief art leaves us without words. We learn how champagne wines are crafted, and get to taste the most exquisite house specialties. If you are coming to Reims, do not miss this tour.
The City of Reims With its wide open spaces, hip vibe and medieval style monuments, Reims is the unofficial capital of the region. The city sits on many caves and tunnels where champagne ages. 22 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
3 Reims Secrets: According to the legend, Reims was founded by Remus, Romulus’ brother who founded ancient Rome. The Celtic tribe who lived in the region might have taken therefore the name of Remes. In total, 33 kings were crowned in Reims, the last one being Charles X in 1825. Reims is one of the birthplaces of civil and military aeronautics. The city boasts three UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Among them, the one not to miss is the Notre Dame Cathedral. Adorned with over 2,300 statues, this is the only cathedral to display angels with open wings, including the famous Smiling Angel on the western façade of the north portal.
FRANCE
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Secret
I suggest you visit the Fossier factory while you are here in Reims. The world-renowned biscuit-maker makes the famous pink biscuit, which is traditionally dunked in champagne! Psst...The delicate pink colour comes from crushed cochineal insects. From Reims Central Station, a train will take you to the charming town of Dijon in about three hours. In the next issue, I will take you to the mustard-flavoured city of Dijon, where we shall break gingerbread, washed down with blackcurrant crème de cassis.
Bon appetit!
Addresses Brasserie Le Jardin Les Crayères 7 Avenue du Général Giraud 51100 REIMS Tel +33 (0)3 26 24 90 90 - Fax +33 (0)3 26 24 90 91 lejardin@lescrayeres.com PERCHINGBAR Forêt de Brise Charette 51380 VERZY Tel 06 07 67 94 42 www.perchingbar.eu CHAMPAGNE MERCIER 68-70 Avenue de Champagne F – 51200 EPERNAY Tel +33 (0)3 26 51 20 00 www.moet.com HOTEL JEAN MOET**** 7 Rue Jean Moet F - 51200 EPERNAY Tel +33 (0)3 26 32 19 22 - Fax +33 (0)3 26 32 50 84 www.hoteljeanmoet.com AU 36 36 Rue Domaine Pérignon, 51160 Hautvillers, France Tel +33 (0)3 26 51 58 37 http://www.au36.net
Our trip to this beautiful region was hosted by Atout France, Turkish Airlines, Air France, Rail Europe India and Champagne Ardenne Tourism. Merci beaucoup! 24 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
TAKE FIVE
1
An unforgettable dining experience Eating various sea creatures in an underground restaurant in Kyoto as a muscled man expertly chopped up a tuna worth $10,000. In the background, a reality show played where that same man competed for cash in the same event!
with
Adventurous Kate
The most memorable sunset
2
Was on the island of Boracay in the Philippines. So many colours, and enjoyed on the softest, whitest sand with plenty of palm trees.
Founder of the blog Adventurous Kate, seasoned solo traveller Kate McCulley has over 42, 000 followers on Facebook and 60,000 on Instagram. TS writer Tanya Anand got Kate to share her best travel memories.
3 The craziest festival you’ve attended Up Helly Aa in the Shetland Islands, northeast of Scotland, is a Viking fire festival with costumes, torches, giant burning boats, and dancing until 8:00 in the morning.
The world’s best bar
4
Bar Massimo on the island of Korčula in Croatia is literally built into a crumbling tower in the old city! You need to climb up a ladder to get inside. The sunset views are wonderful.
5 An app all solo travellers should use I love TripIt because it keeps all of my travel documents bundled together in one place.
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COVER STORY
Time for Taiwan Smoking springs, a sky full of lanterns and a sea of lilies against lush mountains—Taiwan is a candy store of sensory treasures, says Siddharth Birla.
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A
s Indian tourists warm up to the Far East— China, South Korea and Japan—Taiwan is often left out in the cold. Some confuse it with Thailand, and many dismiss it as a giant mass production factory somewhere in China. So, when I received an invitation to visit Taiwan, I was both excited and a bit doubtful about what to expect. But now that I am back, I can tell you why you should go to there. This sweet-potato-shaped island off the coast of China has a soft, beating heart within its industrial shell. Even in business-like Taipei, which offers free Wi-Fi for tourists, you’ll stumble upon street markets, pagoda-crowned temples, and factories turned into cultural hubs. The transport system is smooth, crime rates are low, and the exchange rate (Currently, 1 Taiwan Dollar (TWD) = 2.06 INR) makes food, shopping and stay quite affordable. You may struggle with the language—Mandarin and Taiwanese dominate, and English is limited to the front desk of hotels and some prominent shops. But to me, that is part of a new cultural experience. Let me pick out my favourite gems from the trip:
FEAST AT TAIPEI’S NIGHT MARKET The air is filled with an aromatic mix of soy, rice wine, and spices. Clouds of smoke waft from the sizzling cookers as vendors invite me to taste pork ribs, vermicelli, oysters, and steamed buns. I call myself an adventurous eater, but eyeing the spread, I wonder if I qualify for the badge. There’s duck’s head, boar cooked in bamboo pipes, pig’s blood cake, frog’s eggs, octopus balls and penis-shaped sausage cakes called gayke. Right now, I don’t have the stomach for them, so I buy myself a bottle of Taiwan’s famous Bubble Tea, find a bench to people-gaze and enjoy the rest of the glorious Taiwanese night. Note: Food at the night markets looks hygienic and costs little. My bubble tea is about Rs 100 (50 TWD). Shanghai-style pan-fried pork buns cost Rs 20 a plate, and you can buy a filling portion of oyster omelettes and grilled mushrooms seasoned with pepper for Rs 120. Can’t communicate in Taiwanese? Simply stand in front of the stall and point at what you want.
GAWK AT THE SMOKING FUMAROLES OF YANGMINGSHAN A 40-minute drive along the zigzag Zhu Zi Hu Road on the northeast borders of Taipei takes us to the mountainous Yangmingshan National Park. The pungent stench of sulphur grows stronger as we ride uphill, signalling we have almost arrived. A few steps inside the park and I am face to face with the giant smoking fumaroles of Xiaoyoukeng. These natural chimneys are a remnant of the volcanic activity that existed here some 20,000 years ago. An elderly group of Chinese tourists clad in red jackets stand beside me, just as fascinated with the sheer scale of this phenomenon. Once, these grasslands were valued for their vast sulphur deposits, used in gunpowder. Today, they are a popular picnic spot for Taipei locals. The rugged mountain trail attracts adventure lovers.
Can’t communicate in Taiwanese? Simply stand in front of the stall and point at what you want 28 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2016 2016
COVER STORY
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Post volcanic activity has also left this place dotted with numerous hot springs, and it would be a crime to leave without experiencing one. As your lungs fill up with the fresh mountain air, and your eyes rest on miles of lush green hills, let your stresses melt away in a milky sulphur bath. Pure Bliss!
PLUCK CALLA LILIES AT ZHUZI HU A stone’s throw from Yangmingshan National Park is the picturesque and serene Bamboo Lake (Zhu Zi Hu) with rich, green fields of white trumpeting calla lily blossoms. A buzzing farmer’s market by the day, Zhu Zi Hu is lined with rusty, wooden shops on either side of the road, displaying colourful Chinese signboards and decorations that invite you inside. Shopkeepers dressed in bright blues and pinks greet you with sweet smiles as they hawk locally farmed fresh fruits and flowers. I amble around, tasting handpicked fruits and revelling in the scenery painted by rows of calla lilies blooming against mist-shrouded mountains. You can pluck a few stalks—they cost about Rs 20 (10 TWD) a piece. We stop for lunch at the busy, beautiful Miao Bang Garden restaurant. Conversation flows as I relish the rich spread: Mushrooms, beef noodles, pork, fried prawns, steamed buns and ostrich!
Conversation flows as I relish the rich spread: Mushrooms, beef noodles, pork, fried prawns, steamed buns and ostrich!
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COVER COVERSTORY STORY
SOAK IN THE MYSTIC BEAUTY OF THE SUN MOON LAKE A three-and-a-half-hour drive from Taipei, the Sun Moon Lake draws in more than six million visitors every year, making it Taiwan’s most famous tourist attraction. “This is where Chiang Kai-Shek dreamed of one day retaking mainland China,” our guide recounts as we gape at the two huge lakes. The sky is overcast, giving the scene a somewhat surreal feel. I am told that on clear days, the radiant blue water rimmed with picturesque mountains creates a full-size version of a romantic landscape painting. Two small resort towns, Shueishe and Ita Thao have sprung up on either side of the lake, and you can explore both in about 20 minutes flat. The visitor’s guide tells me that the local authorities have put a limit to hotel development here, saving it from commercialisation. Shopping for artefacts and sailing in the choppy waters of Sun Moon Lake are the most tourist-y things to do. But if you are not a fan of sailing, take a leisurely stroll down the scenic Shueishe Lakeside Trail. The view of the dense forest with the sound of water lapping against the shore will ease your stresses away.
Chiang Kai-shek was a Chinese political leader and a major figure in Chinese history from 1927 to 1948. He led the Chinese Republic during World War II (1939–45) but was eventually forced from power by the Chinese Communists. From 1949 until his death, he served as the president of Taiwan.
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RELEASE A SKY LANTERN AT SHIFEN STREET Just 45 minutes from Taipei lies the storybook village of Shifen. If you visit during the Chinese New Year, be prepared for a visual bonanza. Thousands of sky lanterns, each inscribed with a wish for the New Year, are released into the heavens, decorating the night sky like beautiful zari work. Of course there is a story behind the tradition. Once upon a time, Han Chinese immigrants of Pingxi Valley hid in these mountains to escape bandits. Later, the village watchmen would send out “fire balloons,” a signal to those hiding that the place was safe again. The bandits are long gone, but the tradition has continued, both as a mark of peace and a purely sensory delight—in some ways, it’s Taiwan’s version of our Diwali. The ritual is simple. Buy a lantern from one of the shops lining Shifen Old Street and jot down your wishes on all four sides. Made of oiled rice paper, the lanterns have a large candle at the bottom. I buy a blue one, which is meant to denote success. We take our lanterns out on the street and the shopkeeper lights the candle. As the lamp heats up, I gradually release it in the air. It takes a smooth flight and slowly vanishes from view. I am told it lingers as long as the flame flickers, then gently sways back to earth. Shifen itself has a movie-like setting. Amble around the busy, ancient marketplace standing against lush green mountains. Hundreds of lanterns queued on the sides with quirky messages and drawings add a colourful palette to the street which is bisected by a fully functional railway track. Couples, friends and families line up on the track to get clicked as they release their lanterns. A train pulls through every 15 minutes, scattering away the shoppers and shopkeepers in a jiffy. Fascinating scenes!
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COVER STORY Where exactly is Taiwan?
Taiwan lies 180 kilometres from mainland China, inside the South China Sea. It is bookended by Japan to the north and the Philippines to the south.
How’s the weather?
Taiwan enjoys a mild climate, making it a year-round destination. Just avoid the June to August window when typhoons hit.
Getting in: Flights from Delhi to Taipei are all under 50,000 INR and the flying time varies from 6 to 20 hours, depending on which airline you pick and where it halts. I flew Cathay Pacific flight CX 694, which got me there in a little over 8 hours, with a one-hour layover in Hong Kong. The flight was relatively empty during the first leg, allowing me to stretch my back and relax for a few hours. The best part though was the in-flight entertainment system. Packed with the latest blockbusters, it ensured that I was never bored on-board. The flight landed at Taipei’s Taoyuan International Airport. It’s a good 40-minute drive from the heart of Taipei, so a taxi can be expensive: At least TWD 1,200. I’d recommend taking a bus instead. Cheap and comfortable!
TS writer Siddharth Birla’s trip was hosted by the Tourism Bureau of Taiwan. MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 33
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Klosters
I’ve seen most of the touristy Switzerland. Somewhere fresh this summer? You can always come to us for just the right advice! Travel Secrets Editor Shubhra Krishan discovered a stunning Swiss gem on her recent trip. Klosters region. Quiet, lovely and relatively tourist-free, unless you count Prince Charles, who is a regular guest!
hy Klosters
If you are taking a holiday in Switzerland, you probably have greenery and serenity in mind. Klosters ticks those boxes in bold! And if it is adventure you seek, there’s plenty of that to be had here, too. Nestling in what has remained the rural part of the Prättigau (Graubünden), Klosters, with its romantic village-like atmosphere, stands in stark contrast to the nearby Alpine metropolis of Davos. It’s a tiny town dotted with shops selling outdoorsy sportsgear, and cosy restaurants. A silvery river streaks across the town, and big mountains gaze indulgently down upon it. Hotels and homes all over Klosters are laden with flowers. The combination of wood, greenery and brilliant blossoms is heady and irresistible! MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 35
34 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 36 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2016 2016
Klosters
The photo on the right shows Hotel Alpina: we stayed here and totally loved it. Not only is it beautiful, but located right across the small railway station. The cable car up to a gorgeous mountain is also across the road. The rooms have a homely touch, breakfast is delicious, and the staff warm and welcoming. This hotel is proof that you don’t need to be a five-star to be a five star experience! House in Klosters is above. Bring it parallel among dozens we gaped at! So much beauty, sprinkled all over, just like that! Lazy, sunlit lunches in Klosters are a food lover’s dream come true. Our dream came true at this one: Every delicious dish here reflects the freshness and beauty of the region. And how can you ever leave without indulging in Switzerland’s best-loved comfort food, starring potatoes: yes, we’re talking about Rosti! Paired with local wine and sunshine, all this good food is the perfect recipe for an afternoon snooze. We took our cue from this bovine beauty and treated ourselves to a nap, too! The valleys of Klosters will take your breath away. It is easy to lose track of time gazing in the distance and feeling your soul heal. Far in the distance, on gleaming tracks, the bright red streak of a train passing by, is stunning against the green backdrop: quintessential Switzerland! A whole mountain of adventure awaits to be explored: your kids are going to be floored! MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 37
The Yangon Circular The circular line is the closest that comes to mass transit for Yangon, Myanmar. The British-built railway line loops around for 45.9 kilometers, linking 39 suburban stations to the capital. Our correspondent Shozeb Haider takes a ride.
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Myanmar
E
arly morning thundershowers stopped as suddenly as they had started. Some dark patchy clouds still threatened an already humid morning, as I dashed across a large empty car park into the porte-cochère of the railway station. The Yangon Central was first built in 1877 and when the advancing Japanese forces threatened British defenses in World War II, they destroyed the Victorian building and retreated to India. It was then rebuilt in 1954, in traditional Burmese architecture using multi-tiered roofs that are typically seen in royal palaces, Buddhist monasteries and on top of pagodas. Four towers, topped by gilded spires interspaced with green roofs, impart a distinctive character to the crumbling grandeur of the old colonial building. At one end of the central concourse were a set of closed windows, presumably for selling tickets. Above the closed window were directions to platform 7. At the other end of the hall were rows of seats for waiting passengers. They were empty at this hour, since most trains leave in the evening. The public space was cordoned off from the platforms by metal grille lattice barriers. The gate was safely secured with chains and a strong lock to prevent any trespassing. A sign above read, “Warmly welcome
MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 39
and take care of tourists” (sic). Two young girls had just finished mopping the concourse.The stench of antiseptic from the wet floor filled the air. I ran through the hallway, avoiding a slip, across the foot over bridge and down to platform 7. If I missed the 6:10 train, the next one was not due for another two hours.
Although very slow and a constant source of frustration for daily commuters, the Yangon circular has acquired a cult status among tourists 40 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
The circular line is the closest that comes to a mass transit for Yangon. The British-built railway line loops around for 45.9 kilometers, linking 39 suburban stations to the capital, in three hours. Although very slow and a constant source of frustration for daily commuters, the Yangon circular has acquired a cult status among tourists. For decades, it has been the most authentic way to experience the everyday life of Yangoonies. It is possible to get off at any station and continue the journey on the following train. The next train, however, could arrive anytime between three minutes to three hours, I was told.
While the rest of the Yangon station was sleep walking in to their day, platforms 6 and 7 were already abuzz with activity in anticipation of the arriving train. Apart from a few odd tourists, the station was possessed by daily railway dwellers that went about their routine, completely oblivious of their surroundings, including giant rats that were running around the tracks, gnawing at the leftover waste. A hard-hat wearing hawker was strolling up and down the platform trying unsuccessfully to sell handwoven baskets. Commuters, men and women alike, dressed identically in shirts, lungyi and rubber sandals sitting in a motionless squat, engrossed in their daily bulletin reminded me of an old Burmese saying – “Nothing happens in Burma, but then nothing is expected to happen. “ The train was already half an hour late. Out of nowhere, a man jumped across the tracks towards the junction box.
Myanmar
This coincided with a spontaneous flurry of activity on the platform, signalling the imminent arrival of the train. Shortly, a 1964 German-made diesel engine hauling four run-down carriages appeared on the platform. Before the train came to a halt, huge bundles flew through the windows and the vendors dived in headfirst. Within minutes, the entire platform was inside the compartments and the bustle doubled. As the train moved, the old wood panelling of the carriage squeaked, the floor creaked, the metal of the windows clattered in their frames. At Payar Lan, we passed by the famous Scott’s Markets and the Holy Trinity cathedral, which now stand as reminders of the colonial past. People’s park, national museum and the parliament house breezed past. By now, the carriage was at full occupancy, packed with morning commuters, fruit vendors, traditional food sellers, monks and
tourists. The hawkers tried hard to sell their wares. If unsuccessful, they struck a conversation and launched into animated discussion. Before long I realised that the train was not stopping at any of the stations, but merely slowing down to a speed where people could hurl their goods and themselves, in and out of the carriages. While the commotion inside the moving marketplace was heating up, I gazed at the scenery outside. The brilliant morning sunshine shimmered on the stagnant pools of pink lotuses and watercress along the tracks. The suburban houses gave way to a parade of shanty huts made entirely of hammered tin. Men carried buckets on yokes, loaded with potable water, while women squatted in conspiratorial groups around ponds, washing their laundry. Elderly men walked along the tracks. Children jeered at the passing train. The fleeting rice fields flamed in the early sunlight.
Before long I realised that the train was not stopping at any of the stations, but merely slowing down to a speed where people could hurl their goods and themselves, in and out of the carriages MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 41
A procession of young men, some pedalling bicycles, began to appear in large numbers. The train pulled in slowly. A young couple sat at one end of Hle Dan platform, catching a moment of intimacy before the classes began at the Yangon University nearby. Insein station is widely known for its notorious prison, and mountains of old Toyota cars that come from around the world to see out their end of days. The nearby temple on Mindhamma Hill houses a jade Buddha, and the royal white elephant garden is popular with local families. Some chewed beetle nut and reddened the floor with the spittle, others smoked cheroots. One woman chopped vegetables in a plastic bag, mixed it with some spice and sauces, while another poured out steamed rice. Fried insects were thrown in as garnishing. Every one was in motion – slicing beetle nuts, peeling bananas, cracking peanuts, washing fruits, screaming at a tea seller. For those with no obvious commitments, I had to guess the purpose of them being there.
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As the train screeched and halted at Danyingon, people barged into the compartment. Baskets full of vegetables, fruits and other goods stuffed securely were thrown through the windows. When every inch of free space was taken up, more goods were piled up on top. This station, on the northern outskirts of Yangon, is where most of the agricultural farming is done.
It is by far the busiest and gets its name from Dragon fruit trees that grow around it. In fact it’s less of a station and more of a local market place. Vendors yelled over each other trying to advertise their wares. Rice tied up in banana leaves was being passed through the windows. The smell of spiced prawns and fish filled the air. The tea seller, water carrier, beetle leaf seller, all appeared at once. Ladies with thanaka painted cheeks, sold diced mangoes, watermelons and all sorts of seasonal fruits and vegetables. Some chewed beetle nut and reddened the floor with the spittle, others smoked cheroots. One woman chopped vegetables in a plastic bag, mixed it with some spice and sauces, while another poured steamed rice. Fried insects were thrown in as garnishing. Every one was in motion – slicing beetle nuts, peeling bananas, cracking peanuts, washing fruits, screaming at a tea seller. For those with no obvious commitments, I had to guess the purpose of them being there. By now we had covered more than half of the journey and were heading
Myanmar
back amidst all the goods that were to be sold in Yangon. Individuals gradually got off at their stops, taking with them their merchandise, while new arrivals came onboard. Others preferred to stand on the doorway,
away from the pressures of heat and humidity. Having thus overwhelmed my senses, the train wound its way back to Yangon Central, the perfect antidote to the sanitised tourist attractions of Myanmar.
With the nation opening up to development, it’s not a matter of if, but how soon this circle line will be modernised. The Rangoon Circular will then be preserved in the pages of history.
Shozeb is a scientist by profession. When not researching on Cancer, he is seeking ways to travel the world in search for that elusive wisdom from the adage – travel makes you wiser. He is based out of London and Lucknow.
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We believe in the essence of rediscovering romantic weekends, and making your romantic celebrations an unforgettable time with your loved one. Enjoy the comfort of our luxurious suites, relax together at Zen the spa and indulge in a romantic dinner. Our Romantic packages includes: · Accommodation in a suite of your choice · Indulge together with a free 30-minute couple massage at Bodylines Fitness and Wellness club · Romantic dinner · Breakfast in your bed · A bottle of bubbly, chocolates and a flower bouquet · Late check-out For more information call +91 11 49505050, or email gso.india@rotana.com Abu Dhabi Al Ain Dubai Fujairah Sharjah Ras Al Khaimah Egypt
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We are on an ambitious mission to collect 1,000,000 travel secrets! Here is a selection of secrets from our worldwide band of correspondents, tourism boards, bloggers and other reliable sources. Each secret is picked with one aim: to make your travel experience smoother, smarter and richer. Join the campaign! Send in your secrets and win incredible prizes including air tickets, hotel stays, gift vouchers and more. Get the details on our website: www.travelsecretsmag.com. Mail your travel secret to travelsecretsmag@gmail.com MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets  45
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Valley of Milk, Kashmir
From: Shahnawaz, artisan at Delhi Haat, New Delhi
Around 40 kilometres away from Srinagar is the valley of Doodh-e-patri. Recently discovered, with its lush green meadows and pine tree enclosures, it is fast becoming a tourist hub. It’s called the valley of milk, since it is believed that the cattle in this region produces rich milk in large quantity. Sip some tea at the stalls run by the locals, sit by the river and make it your picnic spot, or simply soak in the tranquillity all around.
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Ferrari’s Black Prancing Horse
From: Bruno Wiley, Vice President of Ferrari World Abu Dhabi
It’s one of the most recognisable logos in the world, but where does it come from? The origin can be traced to Count Francesco Barraca, a World War I fighter pilot. After his first victory against the Austrians in 1916, he painted this emblem on his plane, to pay homage to his former cavalry regiment, The Cavallino Rampante. In 1918, he went on his last mission against the Austrians and never returned. Even though he was killed in action, he is regarded as one of the highest scoring Allied pilots in the war. In 1923, a young racer named Enzo Ferrari had the opportunity to meet Francesco’s parents, Count Enrico and Countess Paolina Barraca. Ferrari describes the moment when the prancing stallion badge was bestowed on him, saying “The horse was painted on the fuselage of the fighter plane of Francesco Baracca — a heroic airman of the First World War. In ’23, I met count Enrico Baracca, the hero’s father, and then his mother, Countess Paulina, who said to me one day, ‘Ferrari, put my son’s prancing horse on your cars. It will bring you good luck.’The horse was, and still is, black, and I added the canary yellow background which is the colour of Modena.” 46 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
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Frauenkirche - Church of Our Lady, Dresden From: Kai Kulleck, Traveller from Germany
The Frauenkirche, Church of our Lady, is the most popular building in Dresden, Germany, but a lot of tourists are not aware of it. What makes this church so fascinating is its history. It was bombed during World War II and has become a symbol of destruction caused during the war, and reconciliation between the German and the Allied forces. It was left in ruins for fifty years and served as a war memorial. The church was rebuilt in 1994, after the re-unification of Germany, using original stones that were salvaged from the debris and combined with new stones. The golden cross on top of the Church, was crafted by a British goldsmith, whose father was an Allied pilot in the air-raids over Dresden.
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Think Tulips, Think Turkey? From: Tanya Anand, Travel Secrets writer
Dutch bulbs, including tulips and daffodils, are exported world over, so it’s assumed that they originated from there. The truth is different. A large variety of tulips were cultivated in Turkey during the Ottoman Empire and they played an interesting role in Turkish history. Under the reign of Sultan Ahmed III (17181730), tulips became an important element in art, folklore and daily life. This period is referred to as the “Tulip Era.” In recent times, the Tulip Festival held in Istanbul during the month of April, attracts hordes of visitors each year. In the 17th century, the beauty and popularity of tulips led to a period of “Tulip mania” in Holland. The affluent citizens viewed them as symbols of wealth and prosperity. Tulips adorned the gardens of the emperors, members of the aristocracy and the archbishops. The rapid spread of tulip bulbs in Holland can be attributed to Charles de L’Ecluse, author of the first major work on tulips (1592). He was a part of the medical faculty of the University of Leiden (Holland), and planted both a teaching garden and his own private one, from which between 1596 and 1598 hundreds of bulbs got stolen.. The inflated prices paid for certain bulbs led to increased trade, and soon enough the Dutch people became obsessed with these flowers. Those who couldn’t afford them depicted them in art, furniture and embroidery.
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Rogan art: Its secret is known to only one family in Bhuj From: Monisha Anand, Travel consultant
The Khatri family of Kutch, Gujarat is on a noble mission – to preserve the dying art of Rogan paintings. Seven generations into the business, Abdul Gafoor’s family continues the tradition of passing the art technique from one generation to the other. Rogan painting is a 300 year old ancient art form with Persian origins. An alternative to embroidery, it is oil based and the practice requires castor oil as the base. The oil is heated in a vessel for more than three days, till it comes to a boiling point. It is then mixed with the cold water to create a thick residue called Rogan, which in Persian means oil based. Next, the natural colours (stored in earthen pots) are added, and they are painted on cloth with a wooden stick, or a thin rod. The more intricate the work, the longer it takes to complete. First the outlining is done, and once it dries up, the colours are added. Drying generally takes two days. While symmetrical designs are preferred, the Khatri family has taken the liberty to experiment with different motifs such as the Tree of Life, paisley designs and Persian minarets. Rogan art items are the preferred gift for heads of state, and the art form is being patronized by tourists from all over the world. Says Khatri, “It is perfection that we try to achieve with every painting. It is so perfect that I have to explain that is not printed, but painted by hand!” MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 47
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The secret spots of Napa Valley From: Kristen Cashman, editor and travel writer
Most of those who visit Northern California’s Wine Country flock to rustic-chic cities like Napa, Healdsburg, and Sonoma. But for those who are looking for a real hidden gem, the lesser-known village of Freestone is the place to go. Nestled in a picturesque valley in West Sonoma County, it offers myriad multi-sensory delights and a laid-back, small-town feel. Freestone stretches across only about a half mile from one end to the other. It is home to a handful of unique establishments that make for just the right kind of indulgent day trip. The undisputed first stop – Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary is everyone’s favourite. It boasts of the only Japanese cedar enzyme bath in the United States and a spa treatment like no other. The 90-minute bath ritual begins with an herbal tea service in a private Japanese garden. Next you soak in a steaming aromatic blend of cedar, rice bran, and plant enzymes imported from Japan whose vapours purportedly ease aches and pains, detoxify and deeply relax the body. For next-level pampering, follow your bath experience with a 75-minute massage or facial. Then, stroll down to Freestone Artisan Cheese, select a few of the region’s to-die-for European-style cheeses and buy a bottle of local olive oil to bring home. Because the ideal complement to cheese is freshly baked bread, follow your nose over to Wildflour Bakery. Wildflour’s brick oven cranks out 9 to 12 varieties of bread each day, as well as biscotti, scones, and cinnamon-raisin sticky buns. The queue often snakes outside the door, but it’s worth the wait. After you sample the offerings and choose your favourites, take your goodies outside, settle on a bench in the bakery’s lovely garden, and delight yourself. Savour your “tasting flight” as you feast your eyes on the vineyards and distant redwoods lining the hillsides. Phelps offers wine lovers the best of both worlds — the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that thrive in Freestone’s coastal climate, as well as the Cabernets and Sauvignon Blancs of their warmer, inland Napa Valley properties. 19th century extravagance at its best, Freestone is nothing short of a time travel. And for those who want to get the best of both worlds, there are water sports to indulge in as well.
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Ras Al Khaimah: The UAE’s hottest new destination From: Al Ras Khaimah Tourism
A quick trip to Dubai should be followed by a few days in Ras Al Khaimah. Here’s why: Al Hamra Marina & Royal Yacht Club: The Al Hamra Marina is the ideal destination for visitors and water sport lovers out to enjoy the beauty of the sea. It has a restaurant and offers charter boats. The Al Hamra Marina comprises of 200 wet berths up to 100 feet provided with power supply and fresh water. Khatt Springs: A naturally hot spring, Khatt Springs is renowned for its healingproperties. The waters, rich in mineral content reach a depth of 90 feetunderground and with temperatures approaching 40C° degrees can curea number of skin ailments and problems associated with rheumaticdisease. Khatt Springs also offer additional Ayurvedic spa treatments which are complimented by the thermal water. With private pools, treatment rooms and a café offering a variety of refreshments, visitors toKhatt’s Hot Springs can enjoy one of Ras Al Khaimah’s most famouspicnic locations. Falcon Show: Falconry is a traditional pastime in Ras Al Khaimah. At the Banyan Tree Al Wadi, the first desert spa resort in the UAE, visitors can enjoy a spectacular show of falcons in the natural desert environment. Home to Arabian gazelles and the Oryx, the desert spa resort has a nature reserve which spans over 130 hectares.
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My travel companions
From: Noriko Yamamoto, Osaka, Japan
Noriko never leaves home without these things.. Whenever I pack for a trip I make sure to pack at least one ‘Furoshiki’ and one Furooke’. A ‘Furoshiki’ is a beautiful cloth used to wrap and bundle clothes and a Furooke’ is a bucket used to hold water for washing the body. Both items were traditionally used when people in Japan had to make a daily trip to public baths. I use two Furoshiki to separate my clean clothes from my dirty clothes in my suitcase. When I get home from a trip, laundry becomes so much easier. I also use several Furoshiki to wrap souvenirs so they stay secure and safe within my suitcase. Many Furoshiki are also made of fabric so beautiful they can double as a scarf on a cold day—fashionable and functional! The furooke is a great place to hold my toiletries and keep them in one place without leaking on the rest of my luggage. I also can use it to launder small items by hand that got dirty by accident. I sometimes even fill it with water and keep it out on the dresser if the air in my hotel room feels a little dry. Both of these items, though traditionally Japanese, have become quite popular among travellers like myself and can be ordered off the internet with little difficulty.
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Le Foodist: A delicious Paris secret From: Shubhra Krishan, Editor, Travel Secrets magazine
There are two things very special about rue du Cardinal Lemoine in the 5th arondissement of Paris. One: Ernest Hemingway lived here. Hemingway was twenty-two, his wife Hadley twenty-six, when they moved to No. 74 on this street. Decades later, no. 59 became the address of a beautiful cultural and culinary school: Le Foodist. It is here that we headed on a warm April afternoon, winding our way up and down cobbled streets that wore the fragrance of flowers and the unmistakable whiff of history. From the moment Fred and Amanda opened the door, to the time we sailed out carrying boxes of freshly baked meringues, it was an experience to cherish forever. Fred Puillot is a French chemical engineer who did a Chemical Engineering PhD in the US. He has studied Sociology, done an MBA, lived in Belgium and Cincinnati. But the one reason you must meet him is his amazing knowledge of all things cuisine and culture. Two minutes into a conversation, and you can see how passionate a food lover he is; how well-informed. We learned how to bake French meringues during a two-hour session with Fred’s British wife Amanda. Ever so gently, she showed us how to measure out the ingredients, whisk them to perfection and set them to bake. It could have been intimidating to work with unfamiliar gadgets and ingredients, but she was so encouraging, so understanding that we forgot our reservations and began to enjoy the experience. Slowly, amazingly, the meringues began to take shape under our hands. And when they emerged from the oven, brilliant yellow and luscious, the pride in our hearts was akin to what we felt upon earning a college degree! No really; it was the kind of pastry you see adorning French bakeries! All through, Amanda explained the reasons why the measurements needed precision, and how the mixing process was crucial to the final product. Afterwards, we sat with the charming couple and enjoyed our creations along with home-brewed coffee. Fred discussed the origins of tea, the amazing cultural interactions he has had, and the challenges of running an enterprise that is so hands-on, so customised. When you visit Paris next, we highly recommend you meet Fred & Amanda, and try your hand at baking or cooking the French way.
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Diner en blanc.
From: Nistha Seth, Teacher, New Delhi
When I was in Paris last June, I happened to witness a wonderful spectacle which takes place each year around this time, in a public location. A sea of people dressed in white come together for a dinner event, carrying their own food, furniture, linen and china ware. The date and venue details are conveyed last minute through a secret invitation. If you happen to be Paris in the month of June, keep a look out for this event. You may just be the lucky tourist who gets invited for it!
These are a few of Cyprus’ favourite things From: Shubhra Krishan, Editor, Travel Secrets
Typically, souvenirs and touristy tidbits will be sold to you as ‘Cyprus this’ and ‘Cyprus that.’ Steer clear of those traps, and take time to observe where the locals are going and what they are buying. Commandaria Wine: said to be the world’s oldest. I cannot verify the claim, but can vouch for the wine: it is sweet and divine! The name ‘Commandaria’ comes from the Grand Commandery, the feudal land belonging to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, where the original wine-producing vineyards were located. The wine can be made only in a strictly defined region comprising 14 wineproducing villages in the Troodos foothills about 20 miles (30 km) north of the city of Limassol. In 1993, the European Union registered ‘Commandaria’ as a protected name and geographical origin. Honey: the blossoming farms on the island yield some wonderful varieties. Also, figs and fresh fruit from the local markets. Better still, pluck them straight off the trees. As my guide Georgia Constantin said, “You can never go hungry in Cyprus; there’s always fruit hanging low on the trees!” Lace and embroidered fabric: from Lefkara village if possible, where fine lace making has been a tradition for generations. In the streets of Omodos village, we saw old women working away at lace kerchiefs and tablecloths.
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Q&A
Monkeying Around in Delhi Anchit Doegar, the founder of SpinMonkey – a venture offering unique guided tours in Delhi, reveals why a cycle can be your best companion to explore the back lanes of the capital city.
When did your love affair with cycling start. It was May 2012 and my brother’s birthday was around the corner. We wanted to gift him some fitness equipment and thought that a high-end bicycle would be a good option. But he never warmed up to it. So, instead of letting it rust in our garage, I decided to use it myself. What started as a hobby, quickly became a passion and now profession. My distant friends and family often complain, Anchit can we please see a picture of yours without the helmet, we’ve actually forgotten how you look.
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You won’t call Delhi the most cyclefriendly city, so what prompted you to start your operations here? I was born and brought up in Delhi and have been riding here for 3 years now. Sure, it might not be the most cyclefriendly city in India but early morning rides are safe and serene too. We have never faced any problems while riding in a group. Plus, I am well aware of the places in and around Delhi, thanks to my cycling group West Delhi Cyclist. There are so many interesting nooks and corners in the city can be best explored only on a cycle.
What are the common problems you face during a tour? What’s the possible solution? Delhi’s bad traffic is of course a major problem and a reason why we only conduct our tours early morning as the roads are relatively empty. While planning our routes, we try to avoid main roads as much as we can. But cycling can only become more conducive in Delhi when we have proper cycling lanes. Cyclists have to be respected and people driving heavier vehicles need to understand that we too share the roads.
TS INTERVIEW
Tell us something about your tour guides. The tour operators are the main pillars around which SpinMonkey is built and it’s tough to imagine this venture without them. Most of them are locals who have been living in Delhi for more than a decade and know their way around the city. They guide our tours alongside their full time professions. The people we hire have to share our enthusiasm over the idea of exploring a city on cycle. Post hiring we carry out several practice sessions until they are ready to lead a tour on their own.
A tour location in Old Delhi & New Delhi that takes your riders by awe. Old Delhi: Khari Baoli, Asia’s biggest wholesale spice market. The street is ever bustling and you’ll see eye catching displays of spices, lentils, rice and what not. The air around the place has a strong and almost nauseating aroma. We take our riders to the terrace of a four-storeyed building where you get a panoramic view of Delhi-6. Great spot to click pictures. New Delhi: Devi Prasad Sadan Dhobi Ghat. Tucked in the commercial heart
of New Delhi, this laundromat has been around since 1970 and is home to a community of 64 dhobis (laundrymen).It usually takes our riders by surprise since this tour location is preceded by the opulently built Lutyens area.
Any interesting anecdote from your tour that you’d like to share. During the tea break and breakfast, we try to run a quiz based on the places we visited and the history around them. Usually, very few people are able to answer the questions but there was one client who got all of them right. And surprisingly she was from Paris!
in the morning peace, or watching the beautiful sunrise at Jama Masjid. It more than compensates for whatever they are missing. That being said, we usually inform the riders about all the famous spots that fall on our route, especially the food joints and ask them to visit the place again after the tour if possible.
Favourite stop for street food in Delhi. New Delhi: Bengali Sweet House, Bengali Market. Poori – aalo subzi to die for. Don’t miss out on the big glass of Lassi they serve.
This made us realise how much interest tourists take to understand the Indian heritage, culture and history. We Indians usually take it for granted but for them it’s really fascinating.
Old Delhi: Natraj, Chandni Chowk Yummiest dahi bhalle and aalo tikki
Your tour usually ends before the market starts to fill in. Don’t you feel the riders miss out on the bustling streets which is one of the biggest charms of Old Delhi?
The longest stretch I ever did in one go was 270kms. The ride started from my place in Delhi and finished at Jaipur. While on the way, I also took a detour to explore the town of Pataudi, ancestral home of actor Saif Ali Khan.
It’s quite a challenge to ride through the narrow lanes of Old Delhi after all the shops are open. But imagine having all those streets just to yourself
What’s the longest stretch you have cycled through so far and how did you plan it?
To prepare for this ride, I rode daily over many flyovers and kept my diet less
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Favourite travel click
than what I usually eat. You basically need to get a lot of practice before going on such a ride and take care of your diet. Eat less but ensure that the sugar content in your food is high.
A city you’d like to explore on a cycle and why? Well I’d actually like to travel the whole world on a cycle. But to choose a city, I’d pick Amsterdam, cycling capital of the world. The idea of exploring the beautiful city while meeting like-minded people sounds fascinating.
Pick your favourite travel click and share the story behind it. I met this amazing German couple over coffee at a cycling café in Singapore.
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They had planned to travel across the globe on cycles for their honeymoon. The cycles you see in the picture were designed and built by them. The golden one belongs to the lady and black one to the gentlemen. I was really excited to meet them and hear their story. It’s so much fun to meet who share your passion. I wish to plan my honeymoon in a similar way, but I guess it’s too early to think about that right now.
Any travel secrets you’d like to share… Bhardwaj Lake – Located within the Asola Wildlife Sanctuary in the outskirts of Delhi, this lake was formed due to extensive mining activity. There are eight more lakes in the vicinity but
Bhardwaj is the largest of them all. Sitting amidst the huge rocky carvings of Aravali hills, the blue lake serves as a pretty sight for urban dwellers and is a hotspot for hikers and off-road cyclists. Bhuli Bhatiyari – Located on the central ridge of Delhi, this place is said to be haunted spot. It’s a ten minute walk from Jhandewalan metro station but it’s restricted to go inside after the sunset. The place was originally constructed as a hunting lodge for Firoz Shah Tughlaq in 14th Century. To book a tour with SpinMonkey, log on to their website www.spinmonkey.in Anchit Doegar spoke to TS writer Siddharth Birla
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Just Back From
TS writer Tanya Anand arrived in Ahmedabad without expecting much. She was pleasantly surprised. f all the Indian cities that I wished to visit, Ahmedabad never featured on my list. But a last minute change in travel plans found me in the capital city of Gujarat, and I was pleasantly surprised by all that I experienced in the three days that I was there. Airline I took I flew Vistara from Delhi. The ticket cost me about Rs 8000. The flight was not on time, and while the on-board service was good, the food did not impress. On the whole, the airline did not live up to the hype. Also, if you book ahead, you could get a return ticket for within Rs 5000. Where I stayed I stayed at the Courtyard Marriott. It’s a business hotel centrally located and well connected to different parts of the city. Great service and excellent breakfast spread. There are plenty of other accommodation options, for all different budgets. Where I ate Well prepared, sumptuous vegetarian food is what you’ll be served in most of the restaurants. We ate at Agashiye at House of MG, Swati Snacks, Vishala and also a home cooked Gujarati meal when visiting some friends who live in the city. The House of MG was once the residence of prominent businessman Mangal Girhardas. The 200-year-old haveli is now a family-run heritage hotel. Agashiye is the terrace restaurant famous for its Gujarati thali, and there is also the Green House Café, which offers a more eclectic menu. A popular chain from
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Mumbai, Swati Snacks has a branch in Ahmedabad, too. Do try the methi dhokla and sukhri, a popular sweetmeat. Vishala is a restaurant designed like a village, and the staff accords to you the same, warm hospitality you would experience in an Indian village. Places to shop Gujarat is known for its embroidered Kutch handicrafts, garments in bandhini print, and silver metal jewellery. You can have a look at high end shops such as Bandhej, Sanskruti and Seasons, or browse through the local markets at Law Road and Lal Darwaza. I bought a few Kutch-work bags from a shop on Law road and a bandhini kurta from Bandhej. If you enjoy the local pickles and Gujarati savouries, Induben’s shop on CG road is a must visit. A landmark store, it’s been around since 1955. You’ll get your fill of khakhras, theplas, mathis, chutneys, papadums here. I bought the mango chundoo (sweet and spicy pickle) and green chilli pickle prepared in dried mustard oil. Sight-Seeing Options The city has an interesting mix of
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Just Back From temples, mosques, and other sights of historical interest. Sabarmati Ashram should be the starting point for your sight-seeing tour. Pay your respect to the Father of the Nation at his abode during the freedom struggle. Next you can head to the old city to see the Jama Masjid and the Sidi Saiyad Mosque. The Jama Masjid was built in 1424 during the reign of Ahmed Shah I, and it’s the only mosque in the world where women are allowed to pray inside – a practice followed since the last six centuries. Known for its filigree (mesh) work on the stone windows, the Sidi Saiyad mosque was constructed in 1523, and is named after its architect. Other attractions include Akshardham temple, Hathee Singh Jain temple and the Calico Museum of Textiles. Depending on your interests and how much time you have, you can chart out your itinerary. To dos for the next time I was there for only three days and could
only cover as much. I’ll plan a longer stay the next time and visit either the Gir Forest National Park, or take a trip to the Rann of Kutch. Gir National Park, home to the Asiatic Lion, is about six hours from Ahmedabad by road. The Rann of Kutch
is a must-visit to see the White Sand desert. It’s best to head there during the Rann Utsav (November till the end of February).
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The Joyous Days of Carnival ; A Celebration of life Nice Carnival, France 60 Travel Secrets JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2016
The Saurashtra Diaries
Saurashtra Diaries Unravel mysteries of the age old temples, take a peek into the past, cruise with the seagulls, relive the childhood of Mahatma Gandhi and spot a lion. Because there's so much you can do in Saurashtra, says Mohita Kaul. MARCH-APRIL 2016  Travel Secrets  61
The sun had just set when I reached Dwarka. Even before the bus stopped, the spirituality of the city waf ted through the windows. As I unboarded, f lickering ref lections of lights in the water below caught my eyes. We were at the bank of River Gomti. As I traced the lights I reached its source, the city of Dwarka. Even the tiring bus journey couldn’t falter my spirits; I was here, the establishment of Lord Krishna. As I looked away in the scape, I was g reeted by a marvel of architecture, The Dwarka Temple. I steadily walked towards the temple, making my way through the street market which had been beautifully lit. Ever ywhere I looked, I could see glittering idols and gleaming smiles. The excitement to visit Lord Krishna was evident on a lot of faces. We were at the “Gateway to Moksha”! (Dwar-door , Ka- Brahma). Inside, it was easy to miss a lot in the blink of an eye. Keeping my feet on the cool g round of the temple premises, I got a whiff of the burning incense and the fragrance of
different f lowers. As I looked around, it was swarmed by devotees. People from all walks of life had come to seek the blessings of Lord Krishna. As I looked up behind me, I saw women dressed in bright-coloured sarees and heard the clinking of their bangles as they hurried around to make space in the crowd. I could hear the priests fervently chanting prayers, women breathlessly chattering and men carefully appraising. It was quite diff icult to concentrate amidst all the chaos. I was here for the Darshan (Sighting the Idol of Lord Krishna) at night and like ever yone, I had been waiting since almost 20 minutes to catch a glimpse of the idol. There was something about the way it was hidden behind the curtains that drew a lot of curiosity. All this time, musical instruments were being played in the backdrop, but now the drums started play ing. With each ascending beat, the level of people’s fervour went a notch up. The music was like a trance, pulling in anybody who opened themselves
Dwarka
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up to it. A veil of serenity was draped over the devouts and that’s when the Idol was revealed… Little Snippet : The Flag hoisted at the top of the temple is about 52 yards long, and is visible from far off. The priest told me that this f lag is changed about 5 times in a day. It hoisted by people who want to get their wishes fulf illed. It costs about Rs.25,000 to put up a single f lag! --- If you are ready to shell out this amount, there's a wait for this too! Slots have been booked for the next 18 months!!
DO NOT MISS the little market on the street leading up to the temple . These shops sell Gujarati embroidered textiles/ chaniya(blouse) cholis (skirts) , Idols of Lord Krishna and other such unique souvenirs.
Beyt Dwarka but by feathered companions too. Flapping their beautiful white wings, the seagulls soared overhead. They spoke in a language I barely understood. TIP: Cameras are not allowed inside the temple, but do carry them with you to capture the scenic beauty and the street market. They can be deposited in the Cloak Room outside the temple.
DO NOT MISS : Just like Dwarka, Bet Dwarka also has a thriving street market with an array of products like shell work handicraf ts, toys, precious stones, jewellery and much more! It also has a vast variety of street food that you can enjoy, once you’re done shopping! Af ter the pilg rimage, do take out time for the water sports that Bet Dwarka has to offer!
Little Snippet: Popularly known as ‘Kingdom of Krishna’, Bet Dwarka is of g reat importance to Hindu pilg rims. But out of a population of 7000 on the island, only 1000 are Hindus. The majority of population residing is those of Muslims!
Loved by the locals but not quite noted by the outsiders, the island of Beyt Dwarka is an uncommon preference of tourists because of its 30 miles detour from Dwarka. From outside, even I couldn’t make out the delight I was in for. The sun was overhead and the surroundings felt like a sauna. Nothing I saw could provide rest to my uneasy mind. But as I walked to the port, I was delighted to see numerous ferries lined up on the shore of the Arabian Sea. The port was thronged with helmsmen, animatedly calling out to steer the eager commuters to the island. As keen as ever ybody else, I was guided into a vibrant ferry to be taken across. With the wind in my hair, I looked around over at the gentle but steady waves. All I could see were the ant sized ferries and a glimpse of land. Cruising through the endless turquoise waters, I was not just accompanied by human companions,
As I unboarded the ferr y carefully mapping my steps, I glanced over to the crowded surroundings. It sounded like a cacophony, vendors calling out their customers, autowallahs calling out their rides, and the excited chatter of people. Carefully making my way through the market f looded with people, I reached the gate of the temple. It was then that I saw it, a magnif icent creation of the Vedic Era, The Dwarkadhish Temple. As legend has it, it was here that Lord Krishna spent valuable time with his wife Rukmani and saved himself from the scorching heat by staying back (Just one of the legends that the priest told us!) Walking barefoot through the temple premises, I browsed through the architecture of the Temple. It was something that I couldn't miss. Each wall had a beautifully depicted stor y that I wished I could go through if I had some more time… MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 61
Somnath
*No mobiles, no phones, no belts*, the tour guide shouted as we reached Somnath. Somnath was like a movie I’d heard all about, but never seen. Promenading towards Somnath, the breeze from the Arabian Sea caressed my face. Entering the temple, I looked around at the temple's marvellous architecture. The intricately carved designs and the different hues of spirituality lef t me wondering. It was diff icult to believe that this was the Temple which had been destructed many times by various Islamic and 64 Travel Secrets MARCH-APRIL 2016
Hindu kings and still regained its g randeur!Walking out of the temple building, my feet touched the lush g reen g rass. I strolled through the radiant gardens which adorned the temple, much like an ornament. As I looked around, soaking in the scintillating atmosphere, I heard the waves crash. Looking over to the Arabian Sea, I was reminded of a fact my tour guide told, “The temple of Somnath is situated in a way that no mass of land lies between Somanth seashore till Antarctica.’’
SNIPPET : The Sound & Light Show “Jay Somnath” is displayed ever y night during 8.00 to 9.00. It is an ethereal experience for the pilg rims in the backdrop of g rand Somnath temple and the holy wave sounds of the Ocean. Do not miss the beach side fun camel ride near the Temple.
Porbandar Little snippet: The coastline of Porbandar, popularly known as Chowpatty beach is a must visit. A delight to visit at any time of the day, it has a lot to offer. If you go during the day, you can catch a glimpse of a variety of birds like f lamingos. But if you choose to go at night, the area around the beach is still vibrant with lights and an array of fun rides.
DO NOT MISS: I found this little shop in Porbandar’s street market selling embroidered fabrics worn by women of the Rabari Tribe. There is much more to see… Explore!
The birthplace of The Father of Nation, Mahatma Gandhi. Porbandar, holds the essence of its glorious yester years. The old school charm of this place is ref lected in the streets lined up with delightful little shops. I was drawn to ever y little nook and corner in Porbandar. But my itinerar y didn’t quite allow this. So according to it, my f irst stop in Porbandar was the Kirti Mandir, a memorial in the remembrance of Mahatma Gandhi and Kasturba Gandhi . As I walked in, the f irst thing that I looked up to was the clear sky. The open courtyard allowed plenty of light to stream in and illuminated the marble structure. The place radiated serenity and put me in deep thoughts, long before I could even start looking around. Shif ting my gaze to the walls, I was g reeted by old photographs of Gandhiji, each a depiction of a certain happening in his life. I was bound into the stories that have long made their way through people’s minds. Also, if it weren’t for the clock’s ticking hands, I would have spent a g reater time reminiscing and going through the books at the memorial. Next to the Kirti Mandir, is the ancestral home of
Mahatma Gandhi. Nothing less than a Haveli, the home is also an art lovers paradise! The three storeyed Haveli is decorated with ornate designs and is a palette of blue and rust tones. Silently basking in the Haveli’s charm, the early years of Gandhi f lashed like a movie in front of my eyes. I could imagine little Gandhi studying in his study room under the lantern’s faint glow… Little Mohandas staring out of the window to Kasturba’s house… The aromatic frag rance of the spices and the vendors calling out in Gujarati drew me to Porbandar’s market near Kirti mandir. Having a little something for the shops lined up at the cluttered streets of Porbandar, I made sure no shop escaped my observant gaze. As the not so little market I adored came to an end, I looked at my lef t. A board pointed towards the Sudama Temple. The tour guide told me, that this temple was made in remembrance of Sudama(Krishna’s closest friend) and is one of its kind in the countr y. What I found interesting was that the temple premise has a maze. It is said that if you can clear it, you are free of all your sins. MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 61
Sasan Gir My alarm rang at 4 o’ clock in the morning and it wasn’t a task to get up early that day, excitement did the job! The safari was to start at 6 o’ clock and I were to catch a glimpse of the Asiatic lions of Gir. It was pretty dark at the time we started off and all I could feel was the chilly wind and the eerie silence of the forest. Spread over 1412 sq. kms, the thick forests are home to not just the Asiatic lions but a variety of f lora and fauna. As the f irst rays of sunlight hit the tree and presto, the forest appeared. Driving through the forests, I got a clear view of why the Asiatic lions chose to take refuge here. The brown and tan tones of the forest provided the perfect camouf lage. Apart from the constant rustling of leaves, chirping of birds and the static of
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the walkie talkies of the people driving the jeeps, there was not a sound that crowded the sanctuar y for miles. The safari gave me a constant feeling of exhilaration, not even the cool breeze could calm my anxious soul. Incessantly I was almost wishing that a lion would walk past my jeep. ‘ALMOST’, because I was sitting on the corner seat. Controlling my thoughts, I asked the tour off icial about the distance we had covered, “3045 kms”, he said. No longer had he said this, all the jeeps in the continuity, including ours came to a halt. “Look, we’re almost there”, he said, pointing us towards enormous footprints. My heart started beating faster and within f ive minutes we stopped in our tracks. Nobody said anything for a moment; I discreetly looked around
in an almost jitter y state. And that’s when I saw him approaching! A male Asiatic lion steadily walked towards our jeeps, observing us with watchful eyes. He carefully settled at a stone’s throw distance from the jeeps and continued to look. People, who hoped to get a closer view of the lion, were def initely disappointed. But I was as disappointed as I was relieved. He continued to be the muse of his fans for a while longer before he got up again… So, when in Gir, live a few hours like the lions do, enjoy their natural habitat. Feel the excitement at ever y turn, watch the sun come up, spot a sambhar (deer), hear the birds singing in complete unison.
TIP: * Do not wear tacky or vibrant colours while on the safari. * Tr y to go for the 6 o clock safari for sure shot sighting
TS writer Mohita Kaul's trip was hosted by Gujarat Government and Tourism Corporation of Gujarat
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It has been quite a while since I spent some quality time with myself. Stressed out with the commotion all around, I decided to take a vacation within the city. I decided to visit the WelcomHotel, Dwarka. Attractively located behind the Indira Gandhi International Airport, this hotel is popular with business travellers. An offering from the ITC group of Hotels, the Hotel provides an incredible beat from the humdrum. Set in the midst of the hustle bustle of the city, it is a haven for connecting with your inner self. The hotel blends contemporary design and world class service standards to create an exclusive experience. 68  Travel Secrets  MARCH-APRIL 2016
HOTEL REVIEW
Amongst the 322 opulent and well-furnished rooms and suites, I was accommodated in a luxurious double occupancy room. It was a spacious room tastefully decorated in pastel shades. As I looked outside the bay window, I had a pleasant view of the Dwarka Sector 10 metro station. I checked out the various state-of-the-art facilities that the hotel had to offer— conference halls including two spacious banquet venues, two board rooms,
nine breakaway rooms and two outdoor venues, provide specialized spaces to celebrate any occasion. After being welcomed to such an appealing accommodation, I looked forward to spending some time indulging at the WelcomWellness Spa. Amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, the spa provides an intimate and exclusive space for oneself.
spa journey that you must experience. The spa has a quiet and romantic setting with ambient lighting and exotic interiors. The spa doesn’t just offer the traditional spa services, but also offers meditative therapies like Yog Nidra. During the entirety of my stay, I was attended by spoken and adept staff personswhich made it an enriching experience.
With an array of exclusive therapies to rejuvenate and relax the mind and body, it is a
MARCH-APRIL 2016 Travel Secrets 69
Tasty+
Non-Touristy
The town of Trang is a delicious Thai secret
Breakfast is a hearty affair and best enjoyed at one of the bustling local pork and dim sum shops (at last count there were over 70 of these in town). You’d think pork restaurants would be an anomaly in Thailand’s Muslim South. But restaurants like the famous “Trang Mu Yang” are packed every morning.
T
he southern Thai town of Trang isn’t a place that makes headlines. It’s the administrative centre of a far-flung province and life here moves as slowly as latex drips from the trees in the local rubber plantations. Tourists tend to pass through on their way to off-shore islands; such as Ko Muk with its sea caves or the Ko Phetra National Park. After all, at first glance it seems there’s little reason to stay in Trang Town. It can’t boast ancient temples, the beaches are some way off and the town centre is modern, practical and bustle-free.
But it’s worth taking a second look, especially if you’re one of the growing groups of people who delight in seeking out Thailand’s unique and tasty dishes. For foodies, Trang is a five-star destination where the Chinese, Muslim and Thai traditions have clashed and then come to a culinary compromise. So there are a thousand tastes to enjoy. Here are a few of them. Starting with the pork Get up early in Trang – for breakfast is the best meal of the day. The locals are not content with a bowl of rice porridge. Breakfast is a hearty affair and best enjoyed at one of the bustling local pork and dim sum shops (at last count there were over 70 of these in town). You’d think pork restaurants would be an anomaly in Thailand’s Muslim South. But restaurants like the famous “Trang Mu Yang” are packed every morning. The shops are easily found, just look for the pigs’ heads for sale outside the nearest food place, then go in and squeeze onto a table.
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TASTE NOTES
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The tasty steamed parcels contain anything from ground pork to quail eggs or tofu; all washed down with Chinese tea. The dining protocol changes little from place to place. Once seated, you’re presented with a tray of dim sum to choose from. The tasty steamed parcels contain anything from ground pork to quail eggs or tofu; all washed down with Chinese tea. But the pork, or Mu Yang, is the star of the breakfast table. After being marinated for several hours with a range of Chinese herbs, spices and honey, pigs are cooked whole during the night. The result is a sweet and crispy meat with the rich belly fat being most popular with diners. The pork is so famous that it’s celebrated in an annual pork festival every September where the town’s chefs share the secrets of their marinades. Don’t miss the Khanom Chin Khanom Chin, fermented rice noodles served with fish curry sauce, is popular all over Thailand, but in Trang this dish comes into its own thanks to the abundance of local seafood and amazing coconuts. The dish is another breakfast staple and at restaurants like Khun Poom by the city park, you can help yourself to as much curry as you can handle, as well as large plates of crispy local vegetables and pickles. The night market by the city hall is another good place to try Khanom Chin as well as other rich Muslim-style curries; such as, Massaman or Kaeng Kari Pla. Snack on Trang’s Pink Noodles Kuai Tieo is as easy to find in Trang as it is in the rest of Thailand, and there are many vendors in the city selling noodles made to their own family recipes. The vibrantly pink Yen Ta Fo is popular in the town, and as well as the fermented soybean paste that gives the dish its vivid colour; bowls are full of the local seafood; such as, tasty squid and crab. A good place to try one of these famous noodle dishes is the family-run Khiang Chuan Chim Restaurant on Visetkul Road where you can enjoy your lunch and be kept up to date on the European football leagues by the sportsmad owner. Kopi Coffee One thing that shouldn’t be missed in Trang is the famous Kopi coffee. Black, strong and sweetened with sugar, this coffee helps you start the day with a kick. It is often served with sweet deep-fried bread called Cha Kui or local donuts called Pa Tong Ko. Kopi is served all over Trang but remember to order it by name, rather than asking for generic coffee, to be sure you get the real deal. Trang Cake If you are sweet-toothed, end your day with a slice of Trang’s famous cake. This soft sponge delicacy comes in a range of colours and tastes – orange and coffee being the best sellers. The cakes are baked with a hole in the middle like a European Bundt cake and are made without baking soda or preservatives. Trang’s baking tradition stretches back a century when a Chinese immigrant called Kook Ming started making cakes in a home-made oven. He gradually refined the recipe to suit local tastes and the cakes have been selling like…well, like hot cakes ever since. There’s even a cake festival in the town held every August. Courtesy Tourism Authority of Thailand
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TASTE NOTES
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power secrets
Insure Your Travel Secret Travel insurance is something you will need on the road. You never know what might happen, and most health plans won’t cover you overseas. While a lot of people think “I’m healthy, I don’t need travel insurance. I won’t get sick,” travel insurance is much more than just medical protection. It covers you when your camera breaks, your flight is cancelled, a family member dies and you have to come home, or if something is stolen. Image Source: www.herbiewiles.com, Content: www.nomadicmatt.com
Hotel Booking Secret Check one of the ‘Hotel Search Engines’. They instantly search hundreds of different travel websites and then post the lowest rates. Also you can use an opaque travel sites such asHotwire’s hidden hotels and Expedia’s unpublished rate hotels. These offer the best price that is sometimes 50% of the prevailing rates. They don’t tell the exact details of what you’re booking until you’ve made the booking, which is non-refundable. Many modern opaque sites will allow you to choose everything you want by showing you the best deals. Source: www.travel.stackexchange. com, Image Source: www. asianhospitality.com
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RNI Number DELENG/2012/47061