Tokyo is waiting for you by Signature Media

Your ultimate guide to Tokyo

Tokyo

is waiting

for you

YOUR GUIDE TO THE CITY’S NEIGHBOURHOODS THREE PERFECT DAYS IN TOKYO DECODING JAPANESE FOOD

Win!

A $12,300 HOLIDAY FOR TWO TO TOKYO! PLUS 5 RUNNER-UP PRIZES VALUED AT $100 EACH.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

TokyoTokyo.jp Please visit the Official Tokyo Travel Guide for COVID-19 updates: GOTOKYO

Now is a time for in

Tokyo is waitin

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Contents

08 CONTRIBUTORS Our team of in-the-know writers, designers and editors 09 FOREWORD A note from Tokyo Tourism 12 A TALE OF INNUMERABLE CITIES Tokyo is almost a country unto itself. We reveal its neighbourhoods 18 COMPETITION Win a trip to Tokyo valued at $12,300, plus five runner-up prizes 20 TOKYO IN A SNAPSHOT A Tokyo map to get your bearings 22 GUIDE TO CENTRAL TOKYO Explore the central’s areas of Marunouchi, Ginza and Tsukiji

26 GUIDE TO NORTHERN TOKYO Explore Ueno, Yanaka, Nezu, Sendagi and Akihabara 30 GUIDE TO NORTHEASTERN TOKYO Discover the allure of Asakusa and Ryogoku 34 GUIDE TO WESTERN TOKYO Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Omotesando and Aoyama 40 GUIDE TO SOUTHERN TOKYO Roppongi and the Tokyo Tower are just some of the highlights of this fascinating area

64 44 GUIDE TO TOKYO BAY Get to know this dynamic pocket of Southern Tokyo, including the areas of Toyosu and Odaiba 48 GOING FOR GOLD Discover how the world’s greatest sporting event has transformed the Japanese capital 52 ON THE CULTURE TRAIL Time-honoured traditions meet eye-popping trends on Tokyo’s cultural trail

58 CHECK IN, BLISS OUT Tokyo is home to some of the most individual – and memorable – hotels in the world. Read about eight of our favourites 64 A TASTE OF TOKYO From hearty hotpots to delicate sushi, Tokyoites love their food. Join them and delight in the sheer variety of tastes in this city 68 3 PERFECT DAYS IN TOKYO You could spend weeks – years, even – exploring the Japanese capital and barely scratch the surface. If you have just three days, here’s how to get a taste for the city 74 GETTING THERE From the moment you take off to the moment you arrive at your hotel, here are your travel essentials

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Zojo-ji Temple © Shutterstock; spring in Tokyo © Benny Marny/Shutterstock THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: Fine sushi dining © TCVB; Meiji Shrine © Nattee Chalermtiragool/Shutterstock OPENING SPREAD, FROM TOP:

A time of pure relaxation, hospitality and spacious elegance in harmony.

Tokyo Shibuya

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

CEO & Group Editor Cathy Wagstaff cathywagstaff@signaturemedia.com.au Editor Natasha Dragun Sub-Editor Natarsha Brown Contributors Lucy Dayman, Jac Taylor General Manager Tina-Louise Jackson Associate Publisher Cara Wagstaff Head Designer Gemma Kightly Designer Samantha Rowntree Production Coordinator Lilly McCoy Digital Managers Samantha Rowntree, Lisa Wagstaff Digital Editor Alison Godfrey Editorial Assistant Lauren Attard Business Development Managers Tracy Harris, Colleen Hinch, Lisa Maroun, Nicola McClean, Virginia Shirley Tourism Garden Tireless advocates of Tokyo, Alison Roberts-Brown and Yukiko Arita General Enquiries admin@signaturemedia.com.au Sales Enquiries sales@signaturemedia.com.au COVER IMAGE The iconic Tokyo Tower © Blue Planet Studio/Shutterstock MAP ARTWORK © Tourism Garden Pty Ltd ABOUT TOKYO METROPOLIS Japan’s thriving and vibrant capital Tokyo, a metropolis where old meets new, is a city rich in culture and diversity. Tokyo is the political and economic centre of the country, as well as the home to Japan’s Imperial family and the national government. One of the 47 prefectures of Japan, Tokyo covers an area of over 2,000 square kilometres and is governed by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.

ABOUT VACATIONS & TRAVEL Vacations & Travel is Australia’s longest-running travel magazine, creating inspirational lifestyle content for more than 30 years.

Published by Signature Media PO Box 1825 Chatswood NSW 2057 Australia

Foreword

T O K YO I S WA I T I N G F O R YO U... After successfully hosting the 32nd Olympiad, sadly without spectators, Tokyo is missing international travellers more than ever. One of the world’s most vibrant and exciting cities – home to diverse cultures, rich traditions and cutting-edge technology – Tokyo’s contrasts of old and new are everywhere, and part of the city’s compelling charm. No wonder Tokyo is high up on wanderlust list for so many travellers. To make that travel a reality in a world impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, Tokyo wants you to know that behind the many marvellous attractions lies an organised network of clean streets and warm hospitality. Amid the changing landscape the pandemic has given us, Tokyo is drawing on its strengths to support safe and responsible travel. The ‘new normal’ continues to evolve in this great city. Inside these pages we are delighted to introduce you to some of Tokyo’s highlights: the city’s thriving network of neighbourhoods, unique experiences to be had, and model itineraries to help you plan your next visit. We also take you to some of the incredible venues that have been developed for the 2021 Summer Olympic Games. And when you think of Tokyo as a vast and crowded metropolis – think again. It is also a very green city, with plenty of parks and gardens, and opportunities to enjoy the outdoors. The prefecture of Tokyo has rivers, lakes and mountains in the west and subtropical islands in the south. There are dozens of breathtaking nature-based experiences just waiting to be enjoyed. Safe, clean, quirky and kind – Tokyo is looking forward to seeing you soon.

Visiting Senso-ji temple in Asakusa is a dazzling experience and a must-do on any Tokyo holiday © Anek Soowannaphoom/ Shutterstock A B OV E :

Alison & Yukiko Alison Roberts-Brown & Yukiko Arita Tokyo Tourism Representatives, Australia Go Tokyo - Official Travel Guide | Tokyo Tokyo

When visiting Tokyo, check out the latest information about COVID-19 . Please note there may be changes to venue opening times and capacities due to the changing situation. vacationstravel.com

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Discover

Tokyo

Whether old or new, bustling or completely quiet, Tokyo never fails to dazzle visitors.

WATCH

what your next Tokyo holiday could be like.

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WELCOME TO TOKYO

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Win! A TRIP FOR TWO TO TOKYO VALUED AT MORE THAN $12,300! The prize for two includes: • 3 nights at The Capitol Hotel Tokyu in a Deluxe King or Deluxe Hollywood Twin Room. • 2 nights at Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel in a Superior King or Twin Room. • Daily breakfast at both hotels. • Return economy-class flights with ANA, for two.

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COMPETITION

From its hidden ramen bars to its wild architecture and art galleries, its serene parks and gardens to its futuristic fashions, Tokyo is one of the most exciting cities in the world. And it could all be yours thanks to Preferred Hotels & Resorts and ANA. Stay in the heart of Akasaka at The Capitol Hotel Tokyu, this neighbourhood is known for its exciting foodie scene and easy access to some of the city’s most enchanting sights, including the Imperial Palace. Then bed down at the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel, its expansive rooms offering jaw-dropping views over the city. Arrive in comfort thanks to ANA, Japan’s largest airline, recognised for its exceptional service and in-flight comforts.

O P P O SI T E PAG E:

These views could be yours when you arrive in Tokyo © Sakarin Sawasdinaka/Shutterstock T H I S PAG E , F RO M T O P:

Sweet dreams at The Capitol Hotel Tokyu; ANA will fly you to Tokyo in style; dine in style at the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel

CLICK HERE TO WIN

a holiday to Tokyo valued at more than $12.300 and 5 runner-up prizes valued at $100 each.

Terms and conditions: Competition ends 11:59pm Sunday 28 November 2021 and the winner will be notified shortly thereafter by email. Competition is open to Australian residents over the age of 18 only. The prize is not redeemable for cash and is subject to availability. By entering this competition you agree to receive the free fortnightly Vacations & Travel enewsletter. Prize is valid for two people and must be used by 31 March/ October 2023. Black-out dates apply. Winner is responsible for airline taxes and surcharges.

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#MAP #REGIONS

Tokyo in a snapshot One of Japan’s 47 prefectures, Tokyo covers a remarkably vast area. Yes, there are the skyscrapers of Central Tokyo. But venture to the west and there are mountains, then head to the south and you’ll discover dreamy subtropical islands. The vibrant heart of the metropolis can appear daunting until you get to know the different areas and neighbourhoods, each with its own character and style. Read on to discover the highlights and the appeal of visiting (and staying) in each of these areas.

Shinjuku Mitaka

Harajuku

Natio

WESTERN TOKYO Shibuya

Tama Region

Shimokitazawa

Learn more about Tokyo’s Tama and Shima regions

Ebisu Daikanyama

SOUTHERN TOKYO Nakameguro

Shima Region 20 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

GET YOUR BEARINGS

NORTHERN TOKYO Ueno

Asakusa

NORTH EASTERN TOKYO

Nezu

Yanaka

Akihabara Ryogoku

onal Stadium Omotesando

Imperial Palace

Tokyo

Narita Airport

CENTRAL TOKYO

Roppongi

Maihama Ginza

Azabujuban

Tsukiji

Tokyo Disney Resort® Tokyo Tower Aomi

TOKYO BAY

Toyosu

Hamamatsucho Odaiba

Shinagawa Haneda Airport

M A P:

CENTRAL TOKYO

#GINZA #TSUKIJI #MARUNOUCHI

YOUR GUIDE TO

Central Tokyo Explore the city’s hub across three main areas: Tokyo Station and Marunouchi, Ginza, and Tsukiji.

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CENTRAL TOKYO

Imperial Palace

Narita Airport

Tokyo

CENTRAL TOKYO Maihama Ginza

Tsukiji

You can’t visit Tokyo and not spend at least a few hours (we recommend a few days) in the vibrant Central area, whether visiting the atmospheric Tsukiji Outer Market, jumping aboard a train at Tokyo Station or shopping through Ginza. Here are some highlights.

TRAVEL TIPS • If you’re boarding a bullet train at Tokyo Station, the easiest access is from the Yaesu side, although access is also available from the Marunouchi side. • Buying a traditional bento lunch box for your bullet train ride is somewhat of a ritual; there are plenty of options available in Tokyo Station’s underground mall, as well as shops on platforms themselves. • Daimaru Tokyo (one of the city’s biggest department stores) is just a few steps from Tokyo Station. • The International Forum is the ultimate venue for the vibrant Oedo Antique Market.

TOKYO STATION & MARUNOUCHI

If you’re exploring the city, or heading off to another destination around Japan, you will likely pass through Tokyo Station, a hub for train lines including the JR Yamanote Line and a number of metro subway lines. It’s also where bullet trains (shinkansen) run from north to south across the country.

AT TRAC TI O N S

The station is within walking distance of the Imperial Palace East Gardens, a serene green space dotted with pavilions and temples. At the other end of the design spectrum is the Tokyo International Forum, with swooping curves of steel – inside are restaurants, shops and markets. The entire area is a haven for shopping and dining, including the streets underneath Tokyo Station itself, which has multiple malls. vacationstravel.com

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GINZA

At its heart, Ginza is traditional Tokyo. But the hood is also a modern shopping mecca, packed with high-end department stores, malls and fashionable boutiques. On weekends and national holidays, Ginza’s main street (Chuo-dori) is closed to traffic, while the back streets hold a warren of independent galleries, bistros and bars.

AT T R AC TIONS

Some of the main malls include Ginza Six, Ginza Place, Tokyu Plaza and traditional Ginza Mitsukoshi and Wako. After dark, the adjoining areas of Shimbashi and Yurakucho come to life, when locals frequent izakaya

(pubs) to eat yakitori (grilled meat skewers) in atmospheric restaurants under railway bridges. Retire to one of the area’s luxury hotels, or enjoy a dose of culture at the famed Kabukiza Theatre, a shrine to kabuki, a classical Japanese dance drama.

TRAVEL TIPS • The Ginza Six mall comes complete with a high-end food court and rooftop gardens from where you can glimpse the Tokyo Skytree. • Department store basements hold a wealth of food experiences and are a great place to glimpse the range of speciality produce on offer. • Design fans will love the neighbourhood’s eyeopening architecture. • This is where you’ll find Michelin-starred sushi restaurant Sukiyabashi Jiro (made famous by the Jiro Dreams of Sushi documentary). Bookings are essential and can only be made by phone via the concierge at your hotel.

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CENTRAL TOKYO

TRAVEL TIPS • Tsukiji is within walking distance of Ginza.

TSUKIJI

From 1935 to 2018, Tsukiji was home to the most famous fish market in the world. The inner section of the wholesale fish market, with its tuna auctions, has relocated to nearby Toyosu, but the Tsukiji Outer Market is still in place and is a foodie paradise.

AT T R AC TIONS

The Outer Market is ideal for culinary enthusiasts looking to gain a taste for street food; then sit down to an oceanfresh breakfast (or lunch, or dinner) at one of the many sushi restaurants. A number

of the establishments here, some offering sushi-making classes, must be booked in advance. This is also the place to pick up souvenirs, from handcrafted knives to ceramics and kitchenware. For a taste of tradition, visit the Shinto shrine Namiyoke Inari, located on the market’s northeast side. It’s a short stroll on to Buddhist Hongwan-Ji Temple, which fuses Asian and European architecture. Wander on to Hama-rikyu Gardens, an Edo-period paradise originally built to serve as a feudal lord’s residence.

• The Tokyo Water Bus ferry service joins Hama-rikyu Gardens and Asakusa. • Try visiting Asakusa after a morning at Tsukiji, or arrive at Hama-rikyu Gardens by ferry from Asakusa.

O PE N I NG I M AG E:

Imperial Palace © Tokyo Convention and Visitors Bureau O P P O SI T E PAG E , F RO M T O P L E F T: The Shimbashi district of Ginza

is known for its nightlife and geisha sightings © WildSnap/Shutterstock; Ginza Six shopping mall; retail therapy © oneinchpunch/Shutterstock T H I S PAG E: Hama-rikyu Gardens © TCVB

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NORTHERN TOKYO

#UENO #AKIHABARA #NEZU

YOUR GUIDE TO

Northern Tokyo Take in this vibrant area including the neighbourhoods of Ueno; Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi; and Akihabara.

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NORTHERN TOKYO

UENO

Another one of Tokyo’s busy transport hubs, Ueno Station is the gateway to some of the most diverse attractions in the city. Think atmospheric and chaotic markets, contrasted by quiet contemplation in parks and shrines.

TRAVEL TIPS • Ameyoko Market can be accessed from Ueno Station or Okachimachi Station, both on the JR Yamanote Line and one stop away from each other.

WH AT TO S E E & D O

Step out from Ueno Station and you’ll find yourself amid the eye-popping Ameyoko Markets, originally the post-WWII blackmarket area that now rings loud with the cries of hecklers selling everything from giant crabs to clothes and cosmetics. This side of the station is perennially busy; on the other side you’ll find Zen-like Ueno Park. This is a prime destination come sakura (cherry blossom) season, with spring blossoms colouring the landscape in dusty pinks. Come back in summer for vibrant pinks thanks to the giant lotus flowers adorning Shinobazu Pond. Ueno Toshogu Shrine, with its shimmering gold façade, is hidden away in the park; your walking route through the grounds takes you past the Tokyo National Museum, its collection spanning more than 110,000 items.

• Toshogu Shrine opens a stunning peony garden for two periods each year: January and February, and April and May. • Enjoy the urban walking route from Ueno to Yanaka and Nezu areas (or vice versa). Experience the atmosphere of yesteryear and the unspoilt skyline of Tokyo with temple rooftops.

NORTHERN TOKYO Ueno

Nezu

Yanaka

Akihabara

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NORTHERN TOKYO

YANAKA, NEZU & SENDAGI (YANESEN)

The areas of Yanaka, Nezu and Sendagi managed to escape major damage during the world wars and Tokyo’s natural disasters, and as a result, retain a beguiling atmosphere uniting history and a bygone era. Often referred to as Tokyo’s downtown (shitamachi), the area’s general vibe is friendly, retro and charming.

WHAT TO SEE & DO

The neighbourhood’s historic sites of Yanaka Cemetery and Nezu Shrine (one of Japan’s oldest shrines) are tucked away among narrow back streets and traditional wooden 28 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

alleys. Yanaka Ginza, the retro shopping street, has around 70 shops – here you can enjoy street food and Japanese snacks such as juicy pork cutlets, grilled squid and freshly baked rice crackers (senbei). Yanaka and Nezu are also home to a thriving art scene where you can find places like HAGISO – a renovated wooden apartment building transformed into a hip cafe and gallery. There’s also SCAI the Bathhouse, formerly a public bathhouse (sento) that has been turned into a contemporary art gallery, and the Asakura Museum of Sculpture, a wonderment of traditional and contemporary artistic installations.

O PE N I NG S PR E A D:

Ueno Park during cherry blossom season © Takashi Images/Shutterstock A B OV E: Torii gates at Nezu Shrine © cdrw/Shutterstock

TRAVEL TIPS • Nezu Shrine is particularly popular in May with the Azalea Festival. Think stunning flowers, Taiko drumming and festival food stalls. • For a day of historical urban walking, travel from this area through to Ueno, or vice versa.

NORTHERN TOKYO

AKIHABARA

Akihabara, also known as Electric Town, is the epicentre of Tokyo’s ‘geek’ culture. If you love pop culture and everything future-oriented, this area is for you.

WH AT TO S E E & D O

The home of anime, gaming fans, idols and cosplayers, Akihabara is a wild and wonderful travel ride. You don’t have to wander far to see ‘geek’ culture in full swing – the streets are busy with becostumed fans. But if you want a true experience, visit an anime song nightclub. The area is also known for its many specialty electric goods shops and megastores such as Laox and Yodobashi Camera, which line the streets. In complete contrast is the Kanda Myojin Shrine, with almost 1,300 years of history.

TRAVEL TIPS • Visit Akihabara’s flea market on Sundays (10am to 5pm) to pick up anime figurines and all manner of unusual bargains.

T H I S PAG E , F RO M T O P:

Kanda Shrine in Akihabara © Joymsk140/Shutterstock; cosplay in full swing © Sean Pavone/ Shutterstock; get your glow on in Akihabara’s neon-lit streets © Sean Pavone/Shutterstock vacationstravel.com

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# A S A KU S A # RY O G O KU

YOUR GUIDE TO

North Eastern Tokyo

Discover the allure of Asakusa and Ryogoku, areas where contrasting moments of tradition and modernity are particularly prominent.

Asakusa

NORTH EASTERN TOKYO Ryogoku

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ASAKUSA

This area on the Sumida River offers a vibrant glimpse of Japanese traditions, arts and crafts, all wrapped in a local downtown atmosphere.

WH AT TO S E E & DO

Enjoy a moment of Zen at the Senso-ji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in the capital. The imposing entrance, Kaminarimon Gate (Thunder Gate), is unmissable with its giant red lantern, and is particularly pretty at night when crowds have thinned out. After the gate, a 250-metrelong shopping avenue called Nakamise-Dori – replicating an old Edo-period downtown area – leads all the way to the temple, its sides lined with 90 small stalls selling traditional, modern and oneoff souvenirs, from kimono accessories to ninja costumes. One of the tallest towers in the world at 634 metres, the Tokyo Skytree is located in eastern Tokyo. One of the best places to view this landmark – and get that iconic photo – is from the Asakusa side of the Sumida River. Kappabashi, Tokyo’s famous kitchenware town, is also within walking distance of Asakusa. Most stores along this strip specialise in cooking and catering goods as well as traditional and modern hospitality items such as pots, pans and knives.

TRAVEL TIPS • Cruise the Sumida River on the Tokyo Water Bus ferries, which operate from Asakusa to Hamarikyu Gardens, Odaiba and Toyosu. • Enjoy a rickshaw ride, taking in the sights with the wind in your hair. • Kimono rental is available in Ekimise shopping mall. • Hanayashiki is the oldest amusement park in Tokyo, and is a short walk from the Senso-ji Temple.

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RYOGOKU

Ryogoku sits on the eastern side of the Sumida River, and draws wrestling fans from around the world as the home of Japan’s national sport, sumo. Other cultural attractions abound here, from museums to arts and crafts.

W H AT TO S E E & D O

Sumo enjoys a staggering 1,500-year history, with tournaments held across Japan each year – three of them in Tokyo at the Ryogoku Kokugikan Arena, just a one-minute walk from JR Ryogoku Station. The Sumo Tournaments in

Tokyo take place in January, May and September. Another highlight in the area is the Edo-Tokyo Museum, allowing you to journey through Tokyo’s cultural and economic development over the last 400 years through eye-opening displays. For more artistic work from the Edo period, Sumida Hokusai Museum is dedicated to the works of ukiyo-e (a Japanese genre of art that translates as ‘pictures of the floating world’) by artist Katsushika Hokusai. Across the Sumida River, the Asakusabashi district is a hub for all manner of traditional

arts and crafts – think leather, wood, glass and metal. Edo kiriko (cut glass) is one of Tokyo’s homegrown crafts, and glimpsing its production here is fascinating. The Sumida Edo Kiriko-kan has a tour of its glass factory, and you can even create your own distinctive piece of cut glass.

TRAVEL TIPS • Try chanko-nabe, a weighty hot pot with meats and vegetables that’s popular among sumo wrestlers. • Many of the sumo stables where wrestlers train are in this area, allowing visitors to view morning training, under strict conditions. • Sumo tournament tickets are available a month before the actual event. • Sumida Edo Kiriko-kan tours are only available in Japanese, and it’s recommended you take an interpreter.

O PE N I NG S PR E A D:

The grand architecture of Senso-ji temple © Somchaij/Shutterstock L E F T: Sumida Edo Kiriko-kan glassware © Edo Kiriko Cooperative Association O P P O SI T E: Sumo tournament © Ryan Migli/Unsplash 32 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

NORTH EASTERN TOKYO

WESTERN TOKYO

YOUR GUIDE TO

#SHINJUKU # S H I B U YA

Western Tokyo Get to know some of Tokyo’s most fascinating districts: Shinjuku, Shibuya, Harajuku, Aoyama and Omotesando.

TRAVEL TIPS • Avoid Shinjuku Station at peak hour, especially if you’re travelling with young children or strollers. • Sofia Coppola’s movie Lost in Translation was filmed at Shinjuku’s Park Hyatt Hotel – bookings are required to visit the Bar and New York Grill. • Modern art lovers, book ahead for the Yayoi Kusama Museum located in Shinjuku Ward. • Shinjuku is a ramen mecca – the best restaurants will have a long queue outside.

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WESTERN TOKYO

Shinjuku Shinjuku Mitaka

WESTERN TOKYO

Harajuku

National Stadium Omotesando

Shibuya Shimokitazawa

Daikanyama

W HAT TO S E E & D O

SHINJUKU

Shinjuku Station is one of the busiest transport hubs in the world. West of the station lies a forest of skyscrapers and electronic megastores, while the east is the access point for shopping, dining and entertainment. On the south side of the station, you’ll find Shinjuku Expressway Bus terminal, as well as a cluster of modern shopping complexes.

At night, Shinjuku turns into a futuristic city of neon lights with endless opportunities for dining, drinking and entertainment. Tokyo’s one-time red-light district, Kabukicho, is now home to high-end nightclubs, cinemas and oh-so-cool bars and lounges. Enjoy sipping rare whiskeys or sake in establishments around the Golden Gai and Omoide Yokocho, where tiny bars are squeezed into narrow alleys. Shinjuku offers plenty of day diversions as well. Visit the

45th-floor observation decks of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building for stunning vistas over the city. Entry is free of charge, and only a short walk from Shinjuku Station. In contrast to the hustle and bustle of the town centre, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden offers pleasant and leafy reprieve and moments of Zen. In spring, the garden colours pink with cherry blossoms and is a favourite location for sakura viewing. Also in Shinjuku, the Samurai Museum and Ninja Trick House are great cultural experiences for adults and kids, while days can be lost exploring the boutiques of department stores including Isetan, Odakyu and Takashimaya. vacationstravel.com

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WESTERN TOKYO

SHIBUYA

Cutting-edge fashions and youth culture stand proud in Shibuya, an area brimming with hip cafes, bars and restaurants and always buzzing with throngs of people. The district is home to some of Tokyo’s most lauded department stores, its streets busy with shoppers during the day and party people frequenting nightclubs and live-music venues by night.

The Shibuya Scramble Crossing is one of Tokyo’s most visually iconic spots.

WH AT TO S E E & DO

Next to Shibuya Station is the famous scramble crossing (all sides of the intersection cross at the same time), one of Tokyo’s most visually iconic spots – this is an image that features on just about every Japan Instagram page. Towering over the station and the famous crossing is a 47-storey highrise building, Shibuya Scramble Square, which opened in 2019. The 230-metre-high tower is topped with an open-air observation deck, offering majestic views across Tokyo, all the way to Mount Fuji.

TRAVEL TIPS • Shibuya 109 is heaven for fashion-conscious teens. • Visit Loft or Tokyu Hands for quirky souvenirs. • Check out fashionable youth culture walking from Shibuya to Harajuku via Cat Street. • Enjoy the local nightlife and try karaoke at Shibuya Karaoke Kan, where a scene from Lost in Translation was filmed.

O PE N I NG I M AG E: Exploring the streets of Shinjuku © Hanahiraku/Pexel/ Unsplash L E F T: Shibuya Crossing Scramble © f11photo/Shutterstock O P P O SI T E , F RO M T O P: Shimo-Kitazawa’s bustling streets © Manuel Ascanio/Shutterstock; gazing over the Shibuya Crossing Scramble from an observation deck

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WESTERN TOKYO

SHIMO-KITAZAWA

Shimo-kitazawa Station is accessed from either Shinjuku or Shibuya on the Odakyu or Keio-Inokashira lines.

WH AT TO S E E & D O

If you are looking for somewhere beyond the major city icons, with local retro and youth culture, this area is for you. Often referred to as Shimokita, this neighbourhood is sometimes compared to the back streets of Harajuku, well known for having a large number of small, independent fashion retailers, cafes, bars, live music venues and theatres. Expect to discover a wide selection of vintage treasures, and surround yourself with Tokyo youth culture, with a retro twist.

TRAVEL TIPS • Vinyl lovers will enjoy the eclectic record stores. • This is a great place to catch a live performance or show from a local theatre group.

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WESTERN TOKYO

HARAJUKU

The JR Harajuku Station is located between Shinjuku and Shibuya stations on the JR Yamanote Line. When you arrive, you’ll be met with eyepoppingly individual fashion and style, with young people embracing cosplay and out-ofthis-world street fashion trends.

WH AT TO S E E & D O

Harajuku’s main street, Takeshita-Dori, is located just steps from Harajuku Station and is lined with quirky shops for fashion, street food and bizarre items – such as rare coins. For other shopping opportunities close by, Laforet Harajuku is a complex for trendy youth fashion, and multistorey toy store Kiddy Land (on tree-lined Omotesando boulevard) is 38 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

a haven for every cute Japanese kids’ brand ever conceived. Wind back the clock and enjoy a taste of traditional culture at the Ota Memorial Museum of Art, located in the area’s back streets and home to a coveted collection of Japanese woodcut prints. Also nodding to yesteryear is the Meiji Shrine, with its impressive wooden torii gate – a dense forest of 70 hectares surrounds the shrine, instantly transporting you to a place miles away from the neon of Harajuku. Yoyogi Park, next to the shrine, offers another dose of nature, particularly popular during spring when the cherry blossoms colour grounds in a dusting of pink. It’s also popular among dancers and cosplay fanatics, who dress up and come here on weekends.

TRAVEL TIPS • Visit Harajuku on weekends to witness cosplay gatherings and Rockabilly dancers. • Sample Harajuku’s rainbow food, now popular on Instagram (and sure to give you a sugar high). • See youth culture along Cat Street and Ura-Hara (back streets of Harajuku). • Visit the tranquil Meiji-Shrine inner garden (Iris Garden) in June. • The Antique Flea Market at Togo Shrine pops up on the first Sunday of every month. • Wander to neighbouring areas including Shibuya, Aoyama and Omotesando.

WESTERN TOKYO

AOYAMA & OMOTESANDO

Close to the youth fashion meccas of Shibuya and Harajuku, this elegant shopping district is a playground for well-heeled grown-ups.

W H AT TO S E E & D O

Omotesando is a tree-lined boulevard with stylish brand-name shops, cafes and malls, not in the least the Omotesando Hills Shopping Centre (designed by Tadao Ando in 2005) – think of this part of the city as the Champs-Elysee of Tokyo. Besides the shopping and the cafe culture, it is particularly known for its numerous buildings designed by superstar Japanese and international architects. Among them is the Nezu Museum of Art, dedicated to a vast collection of more than 7,400 works of Japanese and East Asian art, uniting modern and traditional Japanese architecture with harmonious gardens. Close by, the Aoyama area is one of Tokyo’s most affluent neighbourhoods, popular for its international fashion boutiques, cafes, restaurants and antique stores – head to Kotto-Dori Street to discover the latter.

TRAVEL TIPS • Enjoy Parisian-style cafe culture on Omotesando. • For healthy eaters, a number of specialist organic cafes and restaurants are located around the Aoyama Dori Street end of Omotesando in the back streets. • Visit the traditional Japanese tea ceremony gardens at Nezu Museum of Art. • Tokyo’s most famous Jazz venue, Blue Note, is in Minami Aoyama and is a great place to see live performances from local and international acts.

O P P O SI T E PAG E , F RO M L E F T:

Harajuku is known for its kawaii culture; rainbow treats in Harajuku © Kitedarab/ Shutterstock; more colour along the streets of the same neighbourhood © StockStudio/ Shutterstock A B OV E: The leafy streets of Omotesando © picturecells/Shutterstock vacationstravel.com

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#TOKYOTOWER #ROPPONGI

YOUR GUIDE TO

Southern Tokyo Uncover some of Tokyo’s hottest attractions around Roppongi and the Tokyo Tower.

Whether you want to immerse yourself in some of Tokyo’s most happening nightlife or are looking for a bird’s-eye view of the city from the top of the Tokyo Tower, all signs point south.

Roppongi Azabu-juban

Ebisu

Tokyo Tower

SOUTHERN TOKYO Nakameguro

Hamamatsucho Shinagawa

TOKYO TOWER & SURROUNDS

It’s just a 15-minute walk east from Roppongi to the Tokyo Tower, that spire into the sky that promises unrivalled views over the city and out to sea.

W H AT T O S E E & D O

There are few architectural icons as emblematic of the Japanese capital as the Tokyo Tower, built in 1958 as a symbol of Tokyo’s rejuvenation after World War II. Standing 333 metres tall, it has two observation decks offering expansive views across Tokyo and out to sea, as well as a series of floors dedicated to entertainment. A few steps away is the Zojoji Temple, its buildings holding more than 600 years’ worth of history, all enveloped by luscious parks and gardens that offer a moment of quiet contemplation in this otherwise busy pocket of the city.

TRAVEL TIPS • Tofuya Ukai is a traditional tofu restaurant with Japanese gardens located at the foot of Tokyo Tower. Enjoy elaborate kaiseki meals while gazing at manicured grounds. • Walk around the gardens of Zojoji Temple – at the rear of the main temple is the tomb of six Tokugawa Shoguns.

L E F T:

Old meets new: Zojoji Temple backdropped by the gleaming Tokyo Tower spire © Shutterstock vacationstravel.com

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ROPPONGI

One of Tokyo’s most notorious nightlife and entertainment districts, Roppongi enjoys a prime position in the central-south of Tokyo. This affluent neighbourhood is where you’ll find a number of foreign embassies, surrounded by upmarket shopping and lifestyle complexes like Roppongi Hills and Tokyo Midtown, packed with fashionable brandname boutiques, hotels and restaurants – you’ll discover everything from casual dining

to Michelin-starred meals in these perennially popular hubs. Roppongi is also known as a centre for arts, with some of the nation’s foremost institutions located here.

WH AT TO S E E & DO

If you happen to visit this neighbourhood during the day, then you’re likely here for the retail distractions on offer at legendary malls Tokyo Midtown and Roppongi Hills. The former is 570,000 square metres of shopping heaven, with brands ranging from Manolo Blahnik to Diptique, with incredible Japanese homewares and art in between. Meanwhile at Roppongi Hills, boutiques range from popular high-street outlets to high-end stores, while dozens of restaurants let you eat your way around Japan – and the world. This is the gateway to a number of Tokyo’s most coveted galleries, including the Mori Art Museum, packed with contemporary art from the likes of Ai Weiwei, Gohar Dashti and Bill Viola; the Suntory Museum of Art, with its collection of works themed around ‘art in life’; and the National Art Center, which is known for hosting some of the county’s best seasonal exhibitions. T H I S PAG E , F RO M T O P:

Art at the entrance to Roppongi Hills © John Balson/Shutterstock; retail therapy in Roppongi © Ra Chaeik/Shutterstock O P P O SI T E PAG E: Views over the city from the Skydeck at Roppongi Hills 42 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

TRAVEL TIPS • Visit the Skydeck at Roppongi Hills for views across Tokyo. • For a tranquil break, head to Nogijinja Shrine just north of Roppongi. • Refuel in a bar or cafe at one of the luxury hotels – like the Grand Hyatt Tokyo or The RitzCarlton, Tokyo – attached to Roppongi’s shopping complexes.

#FISHMARKET #ODAIBA

YOUR GUIDE TO

Tokyo Bay Get to know this vibrant pocket of Southern Tokyo, including the areas of Toyosu and Odaiba.

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WATCH

what Tokyo Bay will be like in the future.

Aomi

Hamamatsucho

TOKYO BAY

Toyosu

Odaiba Haneda Airport

H U G E LY P O P U L A R F O R its Wholesale Fish Market (a visit here is a highlight of any Tokyo trip) the Tokyo Bay area offers endless insights into the city’s culinary and cultural traditions.

TOYOSU

Toyosu is a vibrant area of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, constructed in 1937.

early to witness the famous tuna auctions, then visit one of the many restaurants for an oceanfresh sashimi breakfast. The rooftop deck offers sweeping views over Toyosu’s shopping malls; you may also glimpse KidZania theme park, where children can learn about society in a fun setting.

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Located in Tokyo Bay, Odaiba was originally a series of manmade fort islands built in the 1800s to protect Tokyo from possible attacks. Today, it’s a popular shopping and entertainment precinct, and a great place to spend the day mingling with locals.

WH AT TO S E E & DO

W H AT TO S E E & D O

In 2018, this part of Tokyo became home to the Tokyo Wholesale Fish Market, which was relocated from the more central site of Tsukiji. Arrive

ODAIBA

TRAVEL TIPS • Visitors to the Fish Market can watch auctions from designated areas.

The best way to reach Odaiba is also an attraction in its own right. The Rainbow Bridge spans 798 metres from the mainland to the island, with the structure cast aglow every evening using solar energy harnessed during the day. When you arrive,

TOKYO BAY

visit the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation (Miraikan), a gallery dedicated to real-life scientific research across a range of fields. Stop past the teamLab Borderless interactive art installation (it’s only here til August 2022, with a new incarnation in 2023), and soak in Tokyo’s largest hot spring theme park, OedoOnsen Monogatari.

TRAVEL TIPS • Odaiba can be reached by the Yurikamome line, crossing the Rainbow Bridge, or by Tokyo Water Bus ferry. • With many theme parks, museums, architectural wonders and attractions to choose from, it’s a good idea to plan your day in advance to get the most out of it. • Some area attractions can be booked in advance online to save the disappointment of missing out on, or having to queue for, tickets. In fact, teamLab Borderless tickets are only sold online, and must be booked before you visit. • Enjoy theme parks like Tokyo Joypolis, and the Legoland Discovery Centre.

O PE N I NG S PR E A D, F RO M L E F T:

Rainbow Bridge is an attraction in its own right; an installation in teamLab Borderless O P P O SI T E PAG E: KidZania © KCJ GROUP (KidZania Tokyo) T H I S PAG E , F RO M T O P: Diver City mall comes with plenty of entertainment © NorGal/ Shutterstock; the Toyosu Fish Market © TCVB

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OLYMPIC GAMES

# O LY M P I C S #ARCHITECTURE

Going for

gold

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OLYMPIC GAMES

Tokyo first hosted the Olympic Games in 1964, becoming the inaugural Asian city to do so. In 2021, the world’s greatest sporting event returned, transforming the Japanese capital in the process.

HEY MAY HAVE BEEN DELAYED by a year, but the Tokyo 2020 Olympic and Paralympic Games finally made their mark on Tokyo in 2021. And what a legacy they left. Back in 1964, the events were as much about showcasing the world’s most talented sporting stars as they were Tokyo’s gamechanging innovations, not in the least its shinkansen trains. It was a similar story this year, although with a major focus on sustainable development. The athlete’s village was crafted with residences powered by hydrogen energy and busses powered by fuel cells. And all electricity across Olympic venues was derived from renewable sources. Many legacy sporting venues were repurposed to host events. But eight state-of-the-art new buildings were created from scratch. Here, some standouts. vacationstravel.com

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OLYMPIC GAMES

JA PAN N ATI O NA L STADIUM

Built on the exact same footprint as Tokyo’s 1964 stadium, the new National Stadium has capacity for 68,000 people. Renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma is behind the dramatic design, inspired by Japan’s traditional architecture and the environment, and incorporating an abundance of plants and natural materials, including latticed cedarwood and Ryukyu pine, sourced from all 47 of Japan’s prefectures. The eves were modelled on 50 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

those that feature in traditional Japanese buildings, but they also have a practical use – to shield from sunlight and rain while also circulating air and cool the building, aided by a nifty misting system.

T O KY O AQ UATI C S CE N TRE

The main 50-metre pool is about as high-tech as they come, equipped with moveable floors and a wall so it can be converted into two 25-metre pools if required, and also change depth by up to three metres. The design of the

ceiling is inspired by origami, that traditional paper-folding art that the Japanese invented. In a nice little twist of fate, the inverted-pyramid shape was conceptualised by Paul Tange, whose father, Kenzo Tange, designed the 1964 Yoyogi National Gymnasium. The 10-lane pool is heated by solar power, and there’s space to host 15,000 visitors.

OLYMPIC GAMES

WATCH

Go behind the scenes to see how some of Tokyo’s incredible Olympic structures were created.

O PE N I NG S PR E A D:

The Olympic Rings in Tokyo © Chaay_Tee/Shutterstock O P P O SI T E PAG E , C L O C K W I SE F RO M T O P L E F T: Olympic gymnasts

© A Ricardo/Shutterstock; the opening ceremony © A Ricardo/ Shutterstock; the Olympic Cauldron © Uta Mukuo; the Japan National Stadium © Tomacrosse/ Shutterstock T H I S PAG E: Tokyo Aquatics Centre © Ryosei Watanabe istock/Getty Images

DID YOU KNOW A R I AK E GY M N A S TI C S CE N TRE

More recycled timber features in this staggering building, replete with a jaw-dropping 90-metre arched timber roof – the largest of its kind in the world – made from larch wood from the Nagano and Hokkaido prefectures. The brains behind it are Nikken Sekkei and Shimizu Corporation, who were inspired by the Tokyo Bay area’s former function as a storage place for timber. Japanese cedar, meanwhile, was used to create the exterior

The 7,000-tonne, 10-metre roof of the Tokyo Aquatics Centre was created first, and then elevated in three stages as each storey of the building was constructed.

shape of a ‘wooden vessel floating around the bay’, while the external concourse area is similar to an engawa (a Japanese-style verandah). The future? It’s set to be transformed into an exhibition centre so all can marvel at the architectural drama. vacationstravel.com

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CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

# C U LT U R E # T R A D I T I O N # M O D E R N

On Tokyo’s

culture trail

Time-honoured traditions meet eye-popping trends on Tokyo’s cultural trail. By Jac Taylor

HE HISTORY OF TOKYO is heavily interwoven with dedication to the arts, to time-honed rituals and to a passion for the simple beauty of life indoors and out. Many traditions reflect the Japanese love for nature and the turn of the seasons, from craft to cuisine; the magic that meets all five senses on any trip here lies in the very rich, layered heritage. Not all cultural pursuits in Tokyo have passed through the generations, however. Pop culture is just as dedicated and just as rich, too, from the fashion-soaked streets of Harajuku to the non-stop chatter and passing parade of cartoon-obsessed, digital native youths in Akihabara. There are many unique Tokyo cultural experiences

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that will add something special to any itinerary, from free activities like visiting temples and shrines or exploring pop culture neighbourhoods, to paid experiences you can arrange through your hotel concierge or book online.

1 Rickshaw

A journey in a rickshaw is a trip back in time, with these erstwhile taxis carrying people wherever they needed to go since the very beginnings of Tokyo. A tour through the historic streets of Asakusa is a treat, especially with the best rickshaw pullers eagerly recounting stories and local insights to enrich your trip. Typically found in the Asakusa area, rides start from around 2,000 yen per person, and bookings are not required.

CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

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CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

WATCH

what it’s like to make nigiri sushi.

2 Noh

The fascinating theatrical tradition of noh is a way of recounting generationsold stories through the use of gestures, masks and music. It’s a real feast for the senses, and can be experienced at many theatres across the city, such as the National Noh Theatre, the Cerulean Tower Noh Theatre or The Kita Noh Theatre.

5 Bonsai

The tradition of miniaturising trees began in Japan in the ninth century, with Edo-period aristocrats perfecting techniques still in use today. The Shunkaen Bonsai Museum features examples of precision plant-tending; once you are sufficiently inspired, you can even take a workshop to learn the art yourself.

8 Tea

6 Kabuki

An important part of Japan’s theatrical history, kabuki tradition dictates that women were barred from performing, paving the way for men to act both male and female roles, often in stunning make-up and costumes. Watch at the Kabukiza Theatre, National Theatre or the Meijiza Theatre.

9 Ninja

7 Sushi

10 Sumo

Geisha Shimbashi,

Asakusa, Yoshicho, Kagurazaka, Akasaka and Mukojima are Tokyo’s main hanamachi (‘flower towns’), where you can experience the gentle art of hospitality by a precisely trained geisha or maiko (apprentice geisha). There are also geisha performances at the Asakusa Cultural Centre.

4 Sake

There is no beverage quite like sake, brewed through the fermentation of rice via a range of techniques and often using timber barrels and centuries-old warehouses. Tour famed spots like Ozawa Shuzo Brewery, Ishikawa Brewery or Tamura Shuzojo Brewery, all in Western Tokyo – with a few tastings along the way, of course. 54 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

What food more perfectly sums up the intersection between utility, tradition and simplicity than sushi? Tokyo is filled with sushi schools, many welcoming visitors to try their hand at nigiri sushi making and more. The Tokyo Sushi Academy has short experiences through to fiveweek-long courses sharing the art of Edomae Tokyo-style sushi.

The tea ceremony is a tradition steeped in history. It is a formalised way of preparing and drinking matcha green tea. Every turn of the tea bowl and swish of the bamboo whisk is just as it has been performed for centuries. Put this experience at the top of your list, either in a private ceremony or attending a full ceremony. While Japan’s samurai were stealing the limelight, it was the country’s ninja who were stealing through the night, using their martial arts skills to spy, sneak and even assassinate when needed. Visit the Musashi Ninja Clan or the Ninja Trick House, to dress up and even try out ninja stars or blow darts in organised activities. Cross wrestling with sacred Shinto rituals and you’ll come close to the phenomenon that is sumo wrestling. During the sumo seasons of January, May and September you can catch bouts at the Kokugikan in Ryogoku, running from late afternoon into the evening – arrive early to check out the museum and arena, and see the wrestlers arrive.

CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

O PE N I NG S PR E A D:

WATCH

what it’s like to visit a sake brewery.

PAG E , C L O C K W I SE F RO M T O P: Preparing

for a sumo bout © J Henning Bucholz/Shutterstock; noh is a traditional Japanese art © Kanze Noh Theater; tea ceremony © TCVB vacationstravel.com

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CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

Top 5

Pop culture experiences From outlandish costumes to futuristic robotic displays, pop culture thrives across Tokyo.

1 Harajuku

Alongside the olden-day beauty of the Meiji Shrine is the much more modern shrine to fashion, pop culture and kawaii (cuteness/ cool) that is the streets and arcades of Harajuku. This is the place to see teens dressed up as everything from goths to Hello Kitty, and on the weekend you will see plenty of cosplayers parading their outfits with pride. These days Harajuku has more of a cool backstreet scene, but it is still a mecca for the unusual and there’s no shortage of surprises. Highlights include: Cosplayers, Takeshita Street, KiddyLand (toy store), Kawaii Monster Café and Harajuku food.

O P P O SI T E , F RO M T O P:

The Geo-Cosmos illuminates Toyo’s love for experimental art; pop culture in full force in Harajuku © FiledImage/Shutterstock

2 Tokyo Station Area

4 Western Tokyo

3 Odaiba

5 Akihabara

While the central area next to Tokyo’s business and financial districts seems an odd place for pop culture, be prepared – the streets here are colourful. Collectors and grown-ups young at heart will appreciate Tokyo Character Street, the Pokémon Centre Tokyo DX and Pokémon Café, dedicated to (you guessed it) all things Pokémon. This is Tokyo at its most experimental. Highlights include the futuristic experiences at the National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation (Miraikan), as well as at Aqua City and teamLab Borderless. It’s hard to miss the cartoonish Unicorn Gundam statue presiding over the district, while it’s up to you if a poothemed museum is your cup of tea: hello, Unko Museum.

Beyond the bright lights of Shinjuku is another anime-obsessed mecca spread across Nakano, Mitaka and Ogikubo. Book tickets to the Ghibli Museum, heroing all things Studio Ghibli and forming a mini theme park. Visit the Mandarake emporium within Nakano Broadway, and lose yourself in the anime exhibits of Suginami Animation Museum. From manga to video games, Japanese pop culture finds its technological heart in otaku (geek) capital, Akihabara – otherwise known as Electric Town. Budget to shop for the latest and greatest gadgets and gizmos, and browse the storeyshigh manga magazine shops. On Sundays, the main street (Chuo Dori) is closed to traffic, making your shopping experience even more enjoyable.

CULTURAL EXPERIENCES

WHERE TO STAY

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WHERE TO STAY

Check in, bliss out

# H O T E L S # W H E R E T O S TA Y

HOTEL NEW OTANI 1. TOKYO EXECUTIVE HOUSE ZEN

There aren’t many hotels better located than this one, set in central Tokyo and with easy access to the happening neighbourhoods of Roppongi, Shinjuku and Ginza. Enjoying a prime perch within the larger Hotel New Otani Tokyo complex (read on below), the property has access to a staggering 37 restaurants ranging from authentic Japanese fare to Michelinstarred French cuisine. And then there’s the 400-year-old Japanese garden… The hotel’s whole design takes inspiration from this Buddhist philosophy: switching off, finding inner peace, appreciating the force of nature. Take time to appreciate the executive lounge – all guests have access to this haven, dishing up everything from canapes and cocktails to croissants.

Tokyo is home to some of the most individual – and memorable – hotels in the world. Here are eight of our favourites, all in the Preferred Hotels & Resorts portfolio.

NEW 2. HOTEL OTANI, THE MAIN

When you’ve indulged in the copious restaurants, explored the expansive Zen gardens – replete with waterfalls and cool groves – and enjoyed your lively neighbourhood, your slick room beckons. Check in to one of The Main’s Shin-Edo Room offerings for niceties like hinoki wood bathtubs, complimentary sake and palace views. Not to mention some of the best bed linens you will ever curl up in. Just try to get out of this bed early….

O P P O SI T E PAG E , F RO M T O P: Views for days from the

Lounge at the Hotel New Otani Executive House Zen; the lush Hotel New Otani Japanese garden

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WHERE TO STAY

KEIO PLAZA HOTEL TOKYO

ROYAL PARK HOTEL

Whether you’re here to explore the bustling streets of Shinjuku (the heart of Tokyo and the hotel’s prime perch), or explore further afield (enjoy a free shuttle bus to Tokyo Disney Resort), this is a family fave in the heart of the Japanese capital. Other diversions include a sky pool (dive in over the summer months) and décor that speaks of Japanese culture.

Within easy reach of Narita and Haneda international airports in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi district, the Royal Park is like a little slice of Zen in the Japanese capital. The fact that there are nine restaurants and bars to choose from make the offering all the more appealing. And then there are the slicklyfitted rooms, with every amenity you could dream of.

A B OV E: Executive Lounge at the Royal Park Hotel O P P O SI T E PAG E , F RO M T O P: Welcome to fine Japanese dining at the Keio Plaza Hotel

Tokyo; a Superior King Room at the Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel 60 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

WHERE TO STAY

CERULEAN TOWER TOKYU HOTEL

Japanese culture, fashion and entertainment are at their headiest in Shibuya, your base when you check in to this hotel. Take in views of the glittering cityscape – all the way to Mt Fuji. The hotel boasts eight dining options, from upscale French classics to Japanese fine dining and casual afternoon tea, combining diverse dishes with stunning city views. The wellness and fitness facilities are fully equipped to relax and refresh – plunge in to the pool, work out in the gym, be pampered with a massage or laze on the sun deck.

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The property is a hub for creative types, uniting vintage and modern decor.

T H E SHIBUYA STREAM EXCEL HOTEL TOKYU

Steps to Shibuya Station? It’s a reality when you check in to this hotel. Location aside, the property is a hub for creatives, uniting vintage and modern décor, but without skimping on creative comforts. A highlight is Torrent restaurant and bar, serving Japanese-inspired bistro dishes and creative cocktails. Just to make your life easier, Meister Room (a public area set on each floor) is equipped with clothing and shoe care goods, designer cooking utensils and wellness machines. Talk about efficiency. T H I S S PR E A D, C L O C K W I SE F RO M T O P L E F T: The lobby at the

Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel Tokyu; the Sanno Suite at the Capitol Hotel Tokyu; exterior of the same hotel; sweet dreams at the Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu; the Shibuya Stream Excel Hotel Tokyu’s design-driven rooms 62 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

WHERE TO STAY

T H E CAPITOL HOTEL TOKYU

Japanese tradition and forwardthinking ingenuity unite at this gracious abode, overlooking the Japanese parliament building and neighbouring historic Hie Shrine. You’d hardly know you’re in such a central position, though, thanks to the oasis of greenery that envelops the building. Rooms offer sophisticated Japanese modern spaces with traditional Japanese architectural styles that feature shoji (sliding paper doors) and fusuma (Japanese sliding screens).

EXCEL 8. SHIBUYA HOTEL TOKYU

This property cuts a dramatic form over the fashion, dining and nightlife district of Shibuya. Safe to say, it’s a central hub, with direct access from the hotel to Shibuya station. Not that you’ll want to leave. You can dine with breathtaking views from French restaurant A bientôt or Japanese restaurant Shunsai. Meals to remember. After a day exploring the city, sink into rooms that deliver every creature comfort. vacationstravel.com

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# C U L I N A RY # E X P E R I E N C E S

A taste of Tokyo From hearty hotpots to delicate sushi, Tokyoites love their food. Join them and delight in the sheer variety of tastes this city has to offer. Tokyo is one of the world’s most exciting dining destinations and, for many, the food here is reason alone to visit. In fact, its top restaurants have accrued more Michelin stars than London, Paris and New York combined, and establishments often specialise in one dish – chefs having spent generations perfecting it. There’s just as much to love about bowls of ramen or yakitori served in izakaya as top-notch sushi. Here are some of the must-try dishes and gastronomic experiences in the capital. 64 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

LOCAL SPECIALTIES

Tokyo’s local fare has evolved over a period of around 400 years. Today, some of the must-try specialties include everyone’s fave: sushi. It comes in a number of forms, including nigirizushi (a mound of rice with raw fish), makizushi (a sushi roll) and temakizushi (a seaweed cone). Then there’s soba, those delicious bowls of noodles that can be served either hot or cold. Fun fact: they symbolise long life. The other noodle of note is ramen, served in a steaming bowl of broth and topped with all manner of condiments, from eggs and vegetables to slivers of pork (chashu). When you smell the aroma of grilling meat, it’s likely you’ve found a yakitori restaurant, where proteins are cooked to perfection on skewers over hot coals.

EAT & DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

Eating and drinking in Tokyo doesn’t have to break the bank. Follow the lead of locals and visit an izakaya, Japan’s version of a pub. Some are hole-in-the-wall joints where you can order a beer or sake and the house speciality – sometimes there are only a handful of dishes on offer. You’ll often find them down a yokocho (alley). But there are also chains, dishing up small bites to workers who have clocked off. Other great options include ‘family restaurants’ (casual dining places that offer Japanese and Western dishes) and food halls in department store basements – always a whirlwind of culinary offerings. Most convenience stores are also packed with goodies, from sandwiches to elaborate sushi packs.

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FINE DINING

It’s no secret that Tokyo is one of the world’s gastronomic epicentres. In fact, there are some 212 restaurants across the city with Michelin stars. Among them are high-end sushi restaurants where every mouthful is handmade as you watch on, with every bite placed in front of you a true work of art. Needless to say, being a sushi chef in Japan is considered a true honour, with every course more delectable than the last. There’s also kaiseki (read more to the right), and shabushabu, a classic hotpot dish where you cook your meal in a bubbling broth placed in the centre of the table. Another speciality is teppanyaki, which sees your food prepared on an iron griddle. It’s not tossed around (a la TV shows), but instead focuses on the finest seasonal ingredients available. 66 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

KAISEKI

Well before locally-sourced menus starting trending around the world, Japan had already built a longstanding tradition around this concept. Known as kaiseki, this multi-course meal began in 19th-century Kyoto and is focused on the seasonality of its ingredients and regional flavours, and has evolved to become the haute cuisine of Japan.

DID YOU KNOW Every kaiseki meal is exquisitely presented to showcase the seasons. Which means that throughout the year, you’ll receive not only dishes that hero the region’s produce, but also decorative touches that speak of the bounty.

O PE N I NG S PR E A D, F RO M L E F T: Dining out at an izakaya © TCVB; steaming bowl of ramen T H I S PAG E , C L O C K W I SE F RO M A B OV E:

A kaiseki spread at Ukai Chikutei © Junchi Otsuki; slurping soba; tempura; a sushi bar © TCVB IC ON Sushi by IronSV/ Noun Project

FOOD & DRINK

EATING ETIQUETTE • Give thanks for your food: “ Itadakimasu ” and “Gochisosama-deshita” are two essential phrases to learn, and are used before and after your meal. • Don’t rub, tap or play with your chopsticks, and place them neatly together at the end of the meal. • While slurping your noodles is widely accepted, do not make loud chewing noises in general. • If the restaurant requires you to take off your shoes, remember that barefoot is considered bad manners. Always carry a spare pair of socks. • Be mindful of how much you order; waste is not appreciated. • Do not start eating until everyone at your table has their food in front of them. • Sniffing or smelling raw food (such as sashimi) can offend the chef. • Avoid blowing your nose during your meal. It’s not considered polite. • Don’t pour your own drink. Others will do it for you, as you should then do for them. • Worried you won’t be able to understand the menu? Search the Multilingual Menu website to discover establishments that list offerings in different languages. • Tipping is not customary in Japan. So unless you are in an extremely high-end restaurant, don’t worry about adding on a service fee.

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#GOTOKYO #GUIDE

Three perfect

days in Tokyo

You could spend weeks – years even – exploring the Japanese capital and barely scratch the surface. If you have just three days, here’s how to get a taste for the city.

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DAY 1:

A modern moment MORNIN G

Your first day in Tokyo reveals just how forward-thinking the western neighbourhoods of the city are, with a little history revealed for good measure. Leave your hotel after breakfast and head for Harajuku Station in Shibuya. From here, it’s just a 10-minute walk to the Meiji Shrine – this site, along with neighbouring Yoyogi Park – are the largest patch of forest in the city. With more than 100,000 trees on the grounds, this is a serene spot to forest bathe (that Japanese concept of feeling calm amid nature), as well as explore temples and admire soaring torii gates. 70 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

It’s in striking contrast to your next destination: Takeshita-dori street. This is kawaii (cute) central, with pop culture on show from the shops selling Hello Kitty t-shirts to stalls dishing up rainbow fairy floss. Also in Shibuya is Omotesando, a leafy boulevard lined with big-name boutiques and all manner of cafes. It’s tempting to refuel... but hold out until you’ve seen the Shibuya Scramble Crossing – a staggering number of people cross here every time the lights change, with the vibrant atmosphere enhanced by enormous overhead TV screens and neon advertising.

A F TE RN O O N

Time for lunch. The Shibuya Scramble Square is home to a plethora of restaurants and shops. Eat your way around the world, sampling everything from Japanese delicacies to French desserts. Next stop is the Nezu Museum, a shrine to Japanese and East Asian art. This private collection now houses almost 7,500 pieces, surrounded by Japanese gardens almost as glorious as the gallery itself. Indulge in a retail therapy at the Roppongi Hills shopping complex, home to yet another astounding gallery (the Mori Art Museum) as well as stores from the likes of Onitsuka

ITINERARY

HOT TIP Lunch can be amazing value in Tokyo. Many restaurants (even fine dining) offer a ‘lunch set’ at a very reasonable price. Make sure you avoid trying to eat lunch between 12 and 1pm on weekdays, as this is when office workers will be out dining, leading to queues at many popular places.

Tiger and Uchino Touch. There are restaurants galore, plus an observation level offering views over the city. It’s particularly pretty as night falls.

EVENING

If you haven’t overindulged, now is the time to explore the bars and restaurants around Roppongi. Try Ippudo for some of the best ramen you’ll ever slurp, Gyopao Gyoza for more-ish dumplings and Gonpachi, serving modern izakaya snacks and famous for its starring role in Quentin Tarantino’s 2003 film Kill Bill.

O PE N I NG S PR E A D, F RO M L E F T:

Quiet contemplation in a temple; versus the bustle of Shinjuku © Renn/Unsplash. O P P O SI T E PAG E: Meiji Shrine © Wrapong Noituptim/Shutterstock T H I S PAG E , F RO M T O P: Leafy Omotesando © Tokyo Convention and Visitors Board; nigiri sushi © TCVB; Shibuya Scramble Crossing © TCVB IC ON: Fire by Beepymallow from the Noun Project vacationstravel.com

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DAY 2:

A taste for tradition MORNIN G

Today you’re exploring the east of the city, beginning at Asakusa. After leaving the metro station, make a beeline for the Senso-ji temple, guarded by the colours of the enormous Kaminarimon gate. It’s a popular stop to grab a snap with one of the four embedded god statues. Stroll along Nakamisedori, a street harking back to shopping in Tokyo of yesteryear – many stalls have been run by the same family for generations. Pick up souvenirs and some of the best street food you’ll ever savour.

Walk off your treats around Ueno Park, originally part of one of the city’s wealthiest temples. Today it’s known for two things: its glorious cherry blossoms in spring (bring your picnic mat) and its many galleries. Pop in on the Tokyo National Museum to ogle the largest collection of national treasures in the country. On your way to Ueno station you’ll pass Tōshō-gū Shrine, with its gloriously gilded shrine and gardens housing yet more cherry blossoms and peonies. Jump on a train bound for Tokyo Station and the Marunouchi area.

B E L OW: Senso-ji temple © Shutterstock O P P O SI T E: Dining out in Shinjuku’s atmospheric alleys © Redd/Unsplash IC O N:

Sushi by Roman J. Sokolov/Noun Project

NAKAMISE-DORI SNACKS TO TRY Ningyoyaki Little sponge cakes filled with red bean paste and shaped like famous Asakusa landmarks. Sembei crackers Which come freshly toasted and are a local favourite. Pan bread Try it in sweet melon flavour. Ice-cream Seasonal flavours include matcha and cherry blossom.

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A FT ERNOON

There are a dizzying number of lunchtime restaurants around Tokyo Station, not in the least Kitchen Street – dedicated entirely to eating. Sit down to a cheap-and-cheerful meal of deep-fried meat skewers, tempura or specialty Okinawan cuisine. Among so many other offerings. Nearby and gleaming, the Marunouchi Building, Kitte Marunouchi Building and Shin Marunouchi Building also come loaded with dining offerings. Wander through the Imperial Palace’s East Gardens, the former site of the Edo Castle’s innermost circles of defence. While the main buildings no longer exist, the moats, entrance gates and several guardhouses can still be seen. If you still have energy, the shopping malls of Ginza await. This is Tokyo’s most popular district for retail therapy, with many mega-malls lining the main Chuo-dori street. Stop past G.Itoya to find stationery heaven, Ginza Mitsukoshi for countrywide and international fashions, and Ginza Six for world-leading brands – head to the rooftop garden for yet more city views.

DID YOU KNOW E V EN I N G

Tonight’s evening meal? Take your pick between the neighbourhoods of Shinjuku or Shibuya. In the former, the buzzing, neon-lit alleys of the Golden Gai house dozens of hole-in-the-wall bars to choose from. While in Shibuya, a melting pot of cuisines await, from soba and ramen to French crepes and Chinese. There are also plenty of karaoke joints to end your evening at, including the one that starred in Lost in Translation.

Sofia Coppola’s popular 2003 film Lost in Translation was largely filmed at the Park Hyatt in Shinjuku. The hotel’s infamous 52nd-floor New York Bar and Grill is where Bill Murray sat at the piano and drank whisky.

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DAY 3:

Nature calls MORNIN G

Tokyo may be known for its skyscrapers, but the city is also remarkably green, with incredible natural areas just a short train ride away in the Mount Takao area. From Shinjuku Station, head west on the Keio Line Limited Express to Takaosanguchi Station. Less than an hour after setting off you’re surrounded by forest and waterfalls. Hike to the summit of Mt Takao, where you’re rewarded with stellar views as well as cold beverages at Takao Beer Mount (June through October) – its claim to fame is that it’s the highest beer garden in Tokyo at 500 metres above sea level.

A FT ERNOON

After a sneaky drink and treats from the Japanese buffet, resume your explorations at mountaintop Takaosan Yakuo Temple, a Buddhist shrine dating back to 744 AD. There’s a restaurant serving vegetarian cuisine, if you decided not to indulge at Beer Mount. End your day soaking in healing springs at Keio Takaosan Onsen Gokurakuyu, with its multiple hot and cold pools as well as sauna and spa – you deserve a massage, right? If dinner beckons, the on-site restaurant serves specialties like tororo soba (buckwheat noodles topped with grated mountain yam). 74 } v a c a t i o n s t r a v e l . c o m

DID YOU KNOW There are some strict hygiene and etiquette rules around bathing in onsen. Many are gender-segregated, and most do not allow you to soak if you have tattoos. Always check ahead before you visit.

T H I S PAG E , B O T H I M AG E S:

Exploring Takaosan Yakuo Shrine © Marcus Winkler/Unsplash R IG H T: Green therapy at Mount Takao © Picturecells/Shutterstock

ITINERARY

WATCH

See how powerful Zen meditation can be.

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# A N A # F L I G H T S # T R A N S P O R TAT I O N

Getting there

– safely

From the moment you take off in Australia to the moment you arrive at your Tokyo hotel, here are your travel essentials.

C L O C K W I SE F RO M T O P: Exploring Tokyo is

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LL NIPPON AIRWAYS (ANA) is Japan’s largest airline, with connections to more than 40 destinations across Japan from Tokyo . Service, whether at the airport or in the air, is of the highest standard, which means that when you touch down at Tokyo Haneda Airport from Sydney or Tokyo Narita Airport from Perth, you arrive refreshed and ready to explore the Japanese capital. At a time when travel safety is more important than ever, ANA is at the top of the airline game. It has received a 5-Star COVID-19 Airline Safety Rating (the only one of its kind in the world) from SKYTRAX, in recognition of its effective measures through ANA Care

Promise to create the safest possible travel environment for passengers. This is no small feat – it’s the highest possible rating from SKYTRAX, and ANA is one of only four airlines in the world to receive full 5-Star recognition. SKYTRAX evaluated more than 190 of the airline’s protocols with respect to countering the spread of COVID-19 and other diseases. Everything from implementing outstanding airport processing standards that incorporate a range of advanced contactless technology, to developing innovative approaches to customer handling and the adoption of strict social distancing protocols for checkin, boarding and arrival.

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

WATCH

Learn more about ANA’s health and safety measures and the ANA Care Promise.

Tokyo’s transportation system may well be the best in the world. Whether you’re zipping about on superfast trains, cruising across bays or commuting in the cleanest taxi you’ll ever jump in, the city is a breeze to explore. And it’s becoming even easier, thanks to an increasing number of multilingual signs, and the fact you can navigate stations, hop on and off buses, and even take waterbuses using a single JR Rail Pass or travel card. Travelling over ground, underground, at slow-speed or ultra-fast-speed are all a reality. The streets are also crowded with taxis – many with English signage – and a vast network of buses criss-cross the city. Central Tokyo itself is relatively small meaning renting a bicycle is a practical and fun way to explore as well.

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Tokyo is waiting for you

Articles inside

3 PERFECT DAYS IN TOKYO

GETTING THERE

ON THE CULTURE TRAIL

CHECK IN, BLISS OUT

A TASTE OF TOKYO

GOING FOR GOLD

GUIDE TO WESTERN TOKYO

GUIDE TO TOKYO BAY

GUIDE TO NORTHEASTERN

GUIDE TO CENTRAL TOKYO

COMPETITION

GUIDE TO NORTHERN TOKYO

GUIDE TO SOUTHERN TOKYO