edition
Letter from the Editors
Hi y’all! We are so excited to be working as Co-Editors-in-Chief of Signature Style this year. As we have both been on the magazine for all four years of our time at Hamilton, Sophie working as the Editorial Director and Grace working as the Layout Director, both since Freshman year, it goes without saying that being in this position feels so full circle for us. Over the years, we have gotten to know so many great people on campus through the mag and have been so grateful to be a part of the Signature Style community. With that being said, one of the main goals we had for this semester was to try and highlight every contributor we have on our extended Signature Style team. Especially now that Covid rules are more relaxed compared to last year, getting out into the wider Hamilton community has been really important to us. Whether it’s Martin’s Way photoshoots or our wildly successful Charity Thrift Shop, it has been so fun and rewarding to see our ideas actually come to life. We are so thankful for our wonderfully talented e-board as well as the campus community for supporting us through this and making our events a success! This extends also to the photoshoots we’ve had for the mag this semester. We feel so lucky to be able to gather as a group again for photoshoots in-person and it’s been amazing to work directly with everyone on the team, from stylists to models, makeup artists, and photographers. On that note, we also wanted to say thank you to Oriskany Creek Farm and Fenner Wind Farm for hosting our team for select photoshoots for this issue. Getting to explore what the local area has to offer was super exciting and we loved having the opportunity to feature these establishments in Signature Style 15 this fall. As the weather is getting colder and we are getting more bundled, we are eager for the Spring issue and to see new faces contribute to our magazine. Thank you again to everyone on the team and to all of our friends who have continued to support us over the years and this one especially. We can’t wait for what’s to come. xoxo, Grace and Soph
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Contributors Sophie Boorstin and Grace Halligan Co-Editors-in-Chief Alexia Assimakopoulos, Managing Editor Laura Radulescu, Editorial Director Brenne Hoeven, Photography Director Courtney Connerly, Layout Director Mahi Ghia, Beauty Director Anna Sakamoto & Aisling Mockler, Head Stylists Piper Williams, Publicity Director Beauty Team Emily Fienco, Jade Levitin, Anna Villamil Stylists Naomi Drew, Louisa Crozier, Anais Geronimo, Katrina Grzeszczuk, Emmy Goodwin, Surya Gowda, Cole Kuczek, Jason Le, Matt Mirkovic, Aisling Mockler, Maggie Nye, Isabella De Pirro, Maeve Zimmerman Layout Courtney Connerly, Max Ganem, Grace Halligan, Andrea Hayman, Talia Rosen, Piper Williams Photographers Jack Grossi, Brenne Hoeven, Peter Huleatt, Nicole Ramirez, Sophia Viscarello Writers/Editors Sophie Boorstin, Claire Campbell, Peter Huleatt, Laura Jeffries, Emily Jiang, Joe Largo, Phoebe Leonard, Sage Lively, Julia Radomisli, Laura Radulescu
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behind the cover:
Chad Varney
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In the spring of 2020, senior Chad Varney and his business partner and girlfriend, Sammy Johnson, successfully created their own upcycling clothing brand, Upcurl. Upcurl focuses on colorfully giving new life to second-hand clothing. Chad and Sammy were inspired by surfing and skate communities, and their brand combines notions of sport, creativity, and a passion for keeping the environment clean and healthy. Chad is a Studio Art major with a focus in drawing and a Digital Art minor. He started his first two years at Hamilton as a Biology major, but came to recognize that Studio Art was his passion and he made the switch. In addition, Chad also plays varsity Ice Hockey and works as an editor for the Continental Magazine on campus. Starting in the spring semester of 2020, Chad and Sammy decided they wanted to break into the fashion industry and use their talents to create clothing. Supervised by the esteemed Environmental Studies professor Aaron Strong, Chad and Sammy designed an independent study course where they learned about the fashion industry, sustainability, and created a website for products. Part of the course was dedicated to learning about the dangers of fast fashion. Chad is not afraid to express his frustration
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with the amount of waste generated by the fashion industry. The mass-manufacturing processes of the fashion industry are responsible for roughly 5% of global greenhouse gas emissions, with this figure only rising every year (Nature). Microfiber pollution from the fashion industry is also responsible for about 35% of the plastic that pollutes our oceans (Ocean Clean Wash). Chad says that he finds fast fashion to be pretty pointless, considering how much material already exists in the world. For this reason, sustainability and upcycling are absolutely fundamental to Upcurl.
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photographer: Brenne Hoeven writer: Laura Jeffries layout: Courtney Connerly
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In producing various articles of clothing, Chad notes that he enjoys the initial creative side of brainstorming designs and working on those ideas that make up the brand and their clothing. His partner Sammy, on the other hand, has a knack for the production and execution part of the process. Chad also explains the Spring Semesterare ofespecially 2020, Chad Sammy decided that Starting embroidery and bleaching funand because, “you neverthey quite know toget, break the fashion industry and use talentsHis to create whatwanted you will so into it makes each product unique andtheir exciting.” favorite clothing. With the help of their class supervisor, Aaron Strong, Chad product is Upcurl’s dark blue bleached hoodies with the brand logo embroidered andfront. Sammy designed an independent study where on the Chad described his fascination withcourse watching thethey darklearned blue color about to thepurple fashion sustainability, created a website for of the transition asindustry, it is bleached — just oneand aspect of the excitement products. Part of the course was dedicated to learning about the danger experimentation in the bleaching process. Chad and Sammy draw inspiration of fast fashion.byChad expressed in anproducts interview hisconsidering frustration how with they the can for their clothing looking at existing and amount of waste generated by the fashion industry. The fashion indusbe embellished and personalized to make them more unique. Chad noted that try’s mass-manufacturing process responsible for roughly 5% of globthe clothing brand Levitate serves as aissource of inspiration for Upcurl as he is al greenhouse gases, with this figure only rising Microfiber fascinated by the brand’s production of clothing andevery focusyear. on sustainability. pollution from the fashion industry is also responsible for about of Chad advises people interested in starting their own brand to35% carefully that pollutes our oceans. Chad he found fashion to are the mapthe outplastic their message and brand identity. Hesaid explains that fast these elements be pretty pointless, considering how much material already exists in foundation and support for a brand, so it is important to make sure your the ‘niche’ is world. FOr thiswith reason, sustainability and upcycling are fundamental to thoughtful and lies your targeted audience and supporters. Chad encourages Upcurl.students who are interested in any form of art to try it out, saying, Hamilton In producing articles of clothing, Chad saidEven that he enjoys “you never know what youvarious will love and what it can turn into.” if Hamilton brainstorming designs and working with those doesthe notinitial offer acreative course side thatof matches your learning interests, independent studies ideas behind the brand and clothing. His partner Sammy, on the other provide a unique opportunity to pursue those interests. Many people are willing hand, has just a knack production and execution the process. to help -- “you havefor to the want it and be willing to put inpart theof work.” In his time at Chad also explained that and especially fun beHamilton, Chad has taken theembroidery opportunity to bleaching create andare take four independent cause “you never quite know what you will get, so it makes each product study courses. and exciting. ” His is Upcurl’s blue bleached unique Chad and Sammy havefavorite a busy product few months comingdark up. They are working hoodies with the brand logo embroidered on the front.Chad described to grow their brand, revamp their website, expand their sustainability efforts, and his fascination with watching dark blue color transition to purple as it produce more products. The pair the is also looking forward to a feature at this year’s is bleached, portraying theChad experimental andalthough exciting the sideupcoming of the bleachHamilton alumni convention. shares that product ing process. Chad and Sammy draw inspiration for their clothing by release is a surprise, supporters should look forward to a new fun twist coming at existing and considering how they can embellish and theirlooking way! Make sure toproducts check out Chad and Sammy’s website: upcurlclothing. personalize them to make them more unique. One particular brand that com, and their Instagram page: @upcurl_, for the latest information and updates inspired Chad’s own brand was Levitate; he was fascinated by the sports about Upcurl. production of clothing and Levitate’s focus on sustainability. Thank you to Fenner Wind Farm for allowing us to shoot at their location. Sources:
“The Issue” (OceanCleanWash.org, 2021) “The Price of Fast Fashion” (Nature Climate Change, 2018)
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professor highlight:
Franziska Schweiger
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photographer: Sophia Viscarello writer: Phoebe Leonard layout: Grace Halligan
Professor Franziska Schweiger, the incredibly stylish Assistant Professor in the German program of the GRIA department, holds academic expertise in 19th and 20th-century German literature and culture. Professor Schweiger grew up in both Southern Germany and Luxembourg. Since getting her Ph.D. at the University of Colorado, Boulder in 2018, she has worked as a visiting professor here at Hamilton. This past year, Professor Schweiger was excited to be offered a tenure track appointment. She currently teaches courses in the German department that focus on language, literature, and culture, including the introductory level elective: “Art and Tech: German Bauhaus 1919-1933” and the 200-level Philosophy course: “Marx, Nietzsche, Freud.” Professor Schweiger notes that she designs her courses for students of all disciplines, as she believes that speaking a foreign language is “foundational to a global social justice-oriented education.” With this model in mind, Professor Schweiger hopes students from various areas of study find her courses to be an enriching part of their academic experiences at Hamilton. It seems that her wish came true, as her courses draw in students from more than eight areas of study and generate very engaging class discussions. The College has connected Professor Schweiger with colleagues and students who bring out the best in her and enable her to meaningfully invest in the Hamilton community.
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When asked about what sparked her interest in fashion, Professor Schweiger initially replied, “Fashion. That is a big word. I am actually not sure what it means. Or that I am particularly interested in it. But I enjoy wearing clothes.” She breaks down fashion to its most simple function and explains that while some people see getting dressed as merely a necessity, she enjoys getting creative with putting pieces together. This definitely adds up with regards to her style choices, as she can be seen sporting sleek, polished, yet personalized looks around campus. Professor Schweiger notes that she could not pinpoint an exact moment that sparked her interest in fashion, however, she reflected on how her upbringing influenced the way she views style. Schweiger reminisces that enjoying clothes and picking out outfits was not the norm when she was growing up in rural Germany. She was told that being interested in personal style was frivolous, as it is typical for Germans to be more pragmatic in that regard. Professor Schweiger commented, “It took me a while to gain enough perspective to claim that.” Over time her view of clothing and style has changed, and she explains that “now I think the frivolity is one of the things I enjoy most about clothes.” Over the years, Professor Schweiger’s interest in fashion has evolved, and she has grown “more aware of the less joyful side of clothes.” She says that “the waste and pollution involved in textile production is wild and has only recently become a point of wide discussion,” and she also says that this industry feeds into “the perpetuation of harmful ideas about what a body should look like.” Given this perspective, Professor Schweiger has grown more conscious about where, how, and why she buys clothes, by considering many factors when shopping, such as classism, racism, sexism, and exploitation of workers in the fashion
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industry. In approaching style through this more informed mindset, she manages to combine her interest in fashion with an understanding of the potential negative implications of consumption. Professor Schweiger views a sense of style as something very individualistic. She is “not sure if [style] has anything to do with fashion in the sense of particular brands or new styles.” In her eyes, style is complex because “good style communicates something interesting about the person via the clothes that someone wears” and “the same clothes won’t communicate the same message on a different person.” That being said, she also explains that she can appreciate another person’s individual sense of style without really feeling the need to replicate it herself. When asked about where she finds her style inspiration, Professor Schweiger talked about people that embody self-expression and creativity. She finds that “New York City and Berlin draw an especially fearless and creative crowd in that regard, which inspires [her] to be more fearless and creative in dressing how [she] wants.” Professor Schweiger also explains that colleagues and students at Hamilton inspire her style. When asked about her go-to clothing item or look, she joked that “when you have zero brain space left for joy or clothes, a jumpsuit is a magical thing” — truly words to live by. Professor Schweiger’s realistic view of fashion is quite admirable: she appreciates the fun aspects of playing around with her style, but she also acknowledges the more serious side of fashion and the privilege associated with having the ability to actually find one’s own signature style. Professor Schweiger embraces the individuality that comes with fashion and developing a sense of personal style, and she draws inspiration not only from her peers but also from the qualities that she admires in the world around us.
“Fashion. That is a big word. I am actually not sure what it means. Or that I am particularly interested in it. But I enjoy wearing clothes.” 14
FASHION ABROAD 15
written by
Peter Hulleat and Joe Largo
Hamilton’s Washington, D.C. program is a popular domestic off-campus study experience for students and has been for the past 52 years. The program is structured in such a way that students work meaningful internships while simultaneously taking government courses taught by Hamilton faculty. This semester, we entered as the first students participating in the program since March 2020, when the program was unexpectedly interrupted due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Each of us applied with hopes of securing in-person internships. Unfortunately, the rise of the COVID-19 Delta variant and an increasing number of breakthrough cases posed a challenge yet again. Although we planned to spend four days per week in the office, we began our internships as remote and hybrid models. This turn of events certainly influenced our off-campus study experience -- especially regarding how we dress for a day in the city.
Was h i n g t o n D . C . 16
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One might say that Washington D.C. is not a city particularly famous for its fashion or streetwear. However, sleek and elegant suits, dress shirts, skirts, loafers, and everything business casual that fill the streets of downtown D.C. beg to differ. Fashion was unexpectedly able to play a role in our day-to-day lives this semester, despite our new remote-hybrid lifestyles. The opportunity to work from home allowed each of us to expand our closets past just business attire. In turn, this meant we could wear clothes that more accurately reflected our personalities and senses of style. While some students in the program chose to dress up in business casual attire, others took their days in more casual outfits. Either way, we all dressed for the variety of occasions any given day might bring. In this way, we found that professionalism -- and with that, a professional sense of style -- took on its own meaning for each of us.
When it comes time to look presentable, whether that be going into the office, networking with Alumni, or engaging in other professional opportunities in the city, there is always a moment of self-doubt and reflection. When selecting an outfit, we had to consider the degree of formality and professionalism appropriate for the event. There is undoubtedly a fine line between looking too dressed up or too casual; determining where an outfit should lie on that line can be challenging. In addition, potentially misjudging a dress code can influence, even subconsciously, a crucial first impression. Keeping this in mind, we found it all the more important to find the best possible style that communicated our professionalism while also maintaining our individuality. As the semester progresses, we will continue to learn how to ride that fine line between individual expression and professional style.
“...we found it all the
more important to find the best possible style that communicated our professionalism while also maintaining our individuality” models: Peter Huleatt, Joe Largo, Nicole Ramirez, Meredith Enslow photographer: Peter Huleatt layout: Talia Rosen
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r a a n il t
Nails have been a canvas for creativity long before the age of Olive & June and acrylic sets. Modern nail art became popular during the 1920s when the classic red manicure and the “half-moon manicure” took center stage. Since then, trendy manicures have ranged from matte top coats to ombré, and social media has helped spur the widespread circulation and prominence of different nail designs. Thankfully, we as a society have moved past crackle topcoats and chevron patterns. Nowadays, nail art has become both a creative outlet for individuals and a booming industry. Professional manicures can range anywhere between twenty to hundreds of dollars, depending on the design, amount of colors, time required, and general quality of the salon, among other factors. Unsurprisingly, the average price of a mani-pedi in the United States has been on a steady exponential rise over the past few years. While nothing beats the feeling of leaving the salon with a freshly painted set, at-home nail art has also become a popular and cost-effective way to try out the trends. Social media, especially TikTok, Youtube, and Instagram, has proved quite useful for those experimenting with nail art as creators use those spaces to share helpful tips and tricks. More recently, many creators and style aficionados have focused on incorporating nail art into their outfit choices and makeup looks. While nails are certainly harder to change up every day than face makeup, using your nail colors or designs to inspire outfit choices always creates a unique and cohesive look.
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writer: Sophie Boorstin photographer: Jack Grossi stylists: Anais Geronimo, Katrina Grzeszczuk, Naomi Drew models: Malik Irish, Emily Jiang, Eliza Pendergast, Britt Defeo beauty: Anna Villamil (nails), Jade Levitin (makeup) layout: Andrea Hayman
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Like any other part of beauty and fashion, nail art trends come and go. Right now, some of the most popular nail art styles are 1970s-inspired swirl patterns, abstract designs, and rhinestone and bead embellishments, as featured in this photoshoot. Browns, muted greens, and blues were among the most popular nail polish colors during the most recent late summer and early fall seasons. As winter approaches, darker tones will undoubtedly make their yearly comeback. Classic maroons, blacks, forest greens, navies, and darker nude tones will always stay in style, however, metallic and chromatic polish colors are also a fun and more unconventional option for the colder months. No matter what your style is, nail art is a great, temporary way to experiment with color and pattern and to expand your beauty routine. Small yet mighty, nails provide a unique canvas for artistic and stylistic expression.
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As the weather grows colder and the academics become more demanding, it can be challenging to reach for anything other than sweatpants in our dressers. Furthermore, the height of the pandemic made us accustomed to wearing comfortable clothing day in and day out while staying at home. Luckily, the rise of athleisure has made it easier than ever to assemble an outfit that is both comfortable and trendy. Matching sweatshirts and sweatpants or sweatshorts sets have become one of the most popular athleisure combinations over the past few months. Wearing a coordinated set elevates the casual duo into a more put-together look. In addition, adding a neutral-colored puffer jacket, layered necklaces, oversized sunglasses, or statement sneakers can help communicate the intentionality and coordination behind a comfortable outfit. Layering is a vital aspect of the athleisure trend; a simple sweater pairs well with a tennis dress, as does an oversized white button-down over a crop top or matching set. Layering also allows for more dynamic outfits that work with the changing weather.
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The rise of athleisure has also inspired a growth of different sneaker styles. From high tops to platforms to a simple white pair, a casual sneaker is a staple of athleisure. In addition to Nike’s popular Air Force 1 sneakers, hundreds of other sneaker options like Reebok’s Club C-85, Nike’s Blazer Mid, and Veja’s different color combinations, provide various options for a comfortable and versatile shoe. One of the most popular athleisure looks this summer was definitely biker shorts with a matching crop top or oversized hoodie. Experimenting with bright colors or graphic sweatshirts allowed people to add a personal spin to this classic combination. Additionally, tennis skirts and dresses have recently made their way into mainstream fashion, thanks to the reemergence of 90’s trends. Exercise dresses, such as those made by Outdoor Voices, offer a unique and dressier version of athletic shorts and a t-shirt, while still remaining practical, simple, and easy to style. Brands like Champion, Nike, Athleta, and Lululemon have continued to dominate the workout clothing market for many years. Still, with the push for more creative and versatile athletic wear, brands like Outdoor Voices and Alo Yoga have come into the spotlight because of their fresh takes on athletic clothing. As we finish out the semester and finals week approaches, don’t be afraid to reach for your comfy, athletic pieces. Sporting a relaxed, yet stylish athleisure outfit is the perfect way to balance style and dressing for your everyday needs.
writer: Claire Campbell stylists: Matt Mirkovic, Surya Gowda, Isabella De Pirro, Maggie Nye, Maeve Zimmerman photographer: Brenne Hoeven models: Edwin Mensah-Boateng, Jessie Campuzano, Nina Merz, Sophia Fabiano, Whitney Riley beauty: Mil Fienco, Jade Levitin layout: Andrea Hayman
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writer: Julia Radomisli photographers: Jack Grossi and Sophia Viscarello beauty: Anna Villamil and Jade Levitin models: Rj Corba, Ellie Whelan, Jackson Harrison, George Herrera, and Zoe Sauve stylists: Louisa Crozier, Jason Le, Emmy Goodwin, Cole Kuczek, and Aisling Mockler layout: Piper Williams
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Western style is back. Cowboy boots are now not only seen on Wyoming ranches but flooding the streets of Manhattan. Those and other elements of Western wear have become extremely popular recently as famous models and celebrities have started to incorporate them into their everyday looks. Western wear pieces can be added into outfits to both dress up casual looks or to add a bit of spunk to a more mundane outfit. Along with fringe vests, bootcut jeans, and cowboy hats and boots, cow print has also returned on all sorts of clothing and accessories, from purses to crop tops. Wrangler Jeans, a company founded in 1943 and endorsed by professional rodeo cowboys four years later, now makes clothing for anyone — not just cowboys and ranchers. Western wear is everywhere, and it might just stay a while. The “Wild West’’ has played an important role in the identity and national memory of The United States, making its way into the world of high fashion. This year’s Met Gala theme, In America: A Lexicon of Fashion, featured many aspects of the style, including Jennifer Lopez’s stunning leather dress and Leon Bridges’s fringed Bode jacket. Despite these fun trends, we have more to consider regarding Western fantasy than just the
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appealing fashion. American culture has painted the old “Wild West” as a world of embellished boots, swinging saloon doors, and lawless activities. Films, books, and TV shows have all shown a similar image of big adventures and even bigger hats; however, this glamorized time of rebellion has an insidious past. Media often portrays a “Cowboys versus Indians” narrative that is historically inaccurate, as federal soldiers were often the ones who instigated violence under federal orders. Motivated by the rhetoric of Manifest Destiny -- the belief that Western settlement is justified and inevitable -- American settlers drove out Indigenous communities, murdering many and forcefully relocating others to reservations. In addition to changing the narrative of such atrocities, the media has painted a monolithic image of the cowboy as a free-spirited hero. The cowboy image often consists of white men with high boots, large hats, fringe vests, shiny guns, and ample bravery. This image, too, fails to tell the whole story. According to BBC, many cowboys were black, and this black presence in the “Wild West” has been forgotten in contemporary history. These cowboys were an essential part of the American West, though very rarely acknowledged or heard of.
It is also important to recognize that our own campus is built on stolen land. Hamilton College is located on the lands of the Oneida people. The Hamilton-Oneida Academy was founded in 1793 by Chief Shenandoah and Rev. Samuel Kirkland. We must acknowledge our colonial history and stand in solidarity with the ShenandoahKirkland Initiative. I urge everyone to research the history of Chief Shenandoah and Rev. Samuel Kirkland and to support the Oneida people today. These summaries are of massive oversimplifications, but it can be easy to get caught up in the fun of Western pieces and outfits without thinking about their historical implications. The rise of Western style highlights the importance of raising awareness about American atrocities during a time that is so often glorified for its lawlessness and freedom. When thinking about these trends, consider what you can do to support Indigenous communities by donating, researching the land you are on, and raising awareness. Honoring Western style has served to create and maintain a particular idealized image of the West, however, we must acknowledge the whole story. The American cowboy is a nuanced symbol, but the sense of adventure and individualism is not something we should forget. Enjoy these staples of uniquely American fashion, but remember not to take everything at face value.
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The Rise and Fall of the 3-in-1 Written by Laura Radulescu Layout by Grace Halligan
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O
ver the past several years, the men’s skincare and personal care industry has experienced remarkable growth. Products marketed specifically for men are now ubiquitous: we see them on television, in grocery store aisles, and online. In addition, a significant portion of beauty and personal care products, including shampoo, face wash, deodorant, and razors, have become heavily gendered and marketed towards specific demographics. Although gendered beauty products have both benefits and drawbacks, there is no denying that the beauty and personal care industry has significant influence over the habits and behaviors of consumers. Although we tend to associate cosmetics with notions of conventional femininity, this was not always the case. For many centuries, men wore makeup for a variety of purposes. Makeup — especially kohl eyeliner — was used in Ancient Egypt to evoke certain gods, communicate wealth, and reinforce masculinity. In 18th century France, King Louis XVI popularized makeup and extravagant wigs for men after going bald in his 20s. It was not until the mid-1800s, when Queen Victoria of England proclaimed makeup was vulgar, that people started to associate it with vanity and femininity (Byrdie). During World War II, the commercial cosmetics industry in the United States took off as more women began working in factories. Traditional beauty standards came to be seen as a way to help women retain their femininity as they took on “men’s jobs.” After the war, it became more challenging for cosmetic companies to sell their products to men because beauty products became so heavily associated with women (Jezebel). “Gender contamination” refers to the idea that if one gender uses a certain product or brand to symbolize their masculinity/femininity, that binary is threatened once other genders start using the product (Jezebel). This phenomenon is responsible for the cosmetic industry’s shift in marketing primarily to women throughout much of the 20th century. Hygiene, grooming, and caring about one’s physical appearance came to be associated with femininity. Consequently, the notion of men’s personal care was neglected for many years. It was not until the late 1990s that the market for men’s beauty products emerged with L’Oreal’s launch of the first malemarketed products, with other companies quickly following suit (Kosmetica World).
Today, some of the most well-known brands that sell male-gendered products include Axe, Old Spice, and Dove Men. These companies mainly sell deodorant, body wash, shampoo, and conditioner -- products used regardless of gender. Yet, these products are marketed differently based on the perceived gender of the consumer. As a result of gender contamination, the characteristics companies emphasize in malegendered products often differ from those emphasized in female-gendered products. Deodorant, for example, is used to limit perspiration and prevent body odor. However, advertisements for male-focused companies like Axe focus on how their product will help male consumers attract women, instead of how their product will prevent body odor. Product naming also varies significantly among gendered products. Female-gendered deodorant brands like Secret emphasize nature and cleanliness in their product naming, with product names like “Clean Lavender,” “Powder Fresh,” and “Spring Breeze.” On the other hand, Male-gendered deodorant brands like Old Spice emphasize rugged nature and strength with names like “Wolfthorn,” “Bearglove,” and “Wilderness.” This pattern is not limited to deodorant. Kiehl’s, a skincare company, calls its male moisturizer “facial fuel” and War Paint, a men’s makeup brand, refers to its products as “war paint, not makeup.” While some companies have retained more gender-neutral names and fragrances, nearly all gendered beauty products differ heavily in their packaging. Men’s products often come in simple, minimalist packaging that uses dark or neutral colors like blues, blacks, and grays, while women’s products often depict flowers, brighter colors, and intricate fonts. These obvious and honestly obnoxious marketing tactics only serve to reinforce stereotypes and cultural norms of toxic masculinity and gender binary. While many gendered beauty products serve similar purposes for consumers of all genders, differences in marketing have translated to differences in price -- a phenomenon called the “pink tax.” The pink tax is not only unfair, but it is also directly discriminatory and supports misogynistic tendencies and practices. Personal care products marketed towards women are about 13% more expensive on average. Bic razors, for example, priced their pink, female, disposable razors at $2.50 and their blue, male, disposable razors at $1.99 (US News). It is fair to say
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that this price discrepancy exists because companies presume women are more likely than men to spend money on maintaining their appearance due to societal standards. The price difference is even wider when it comes to hair care. Shampoo and conditioner marketed towards women can cost up to 48% more than those marketed towards men (US News). Additionally, female-focused hair care lines often offer consumers a whole buffet of different products to care for their hair, including shampoo, conditioner, hair masks, etc. — each priced according to their unique supposed function. Yet, when it comes to male hair care, aisles are filled with 3-in-1 or even 5-in-1 products that combine a shampoo, conditioner, body wash, face wash, etc., into a single product that runs much cheaper. Similar to packaging discrepancies, these multi-purpose products also reinforce harmful genderbased stereotypes, especially the stereotypical idea that men do not care as much about their personal appearance, and therefore would gravitate towards an “easy to use” or “all in one” alternative, whereas women would not. Although most gendered beauty products differ primarily in their marketing, some are gendered for other reasons. Skincare, for example, is often gendered due to physiological differences between male and female skin. Male skin is known to be about 20% thicker than female skin and contains more collagen (Eucerin). Because collagen in male skin reduces at a constant rate and female skin loses collagen later in life, women are more prone to wrinkles. Additionally, men have larger pores and more active sebaceous glands, which causes their skin to be more oily (Eucerin). Regular shaving also influences skin sensitivity. However, people of all genders can have dry or oily skin, acne, eczema, or wrinkles. Companies that utilize “for men” or “for women’’ campaigns do not account for the wide range of different types of men or women and their many varied skincare needs. Therefore, shopping based on skin type and skincare needs may be a more effective tactic than shopping based on gendered marketing. The gendering of the beauty industry has undoubtedly influenced consumers’ behaviors and has reinforced destructive stereotypes. The rise of male-gendered beauty and personal care products unquestionably promotes a gender binary and stems from the harmful societal standards that men must not
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care about their personal hygiene and appearance as women do. All of this being said, the industry is starting to change. In the last several years, companies that once marketed their products based on gender stereotypes and beauty standards have tried to change their approach to emphasize non-stereotypical traits. For example, a 2017 Axe advertisement challenged the idea that men are “not allowed” to wear the color pink, and in 2021, Dove for Men launched a campaign about fathers who are “there to care” (Jezebel). While this move away from more traditional ideas about masculinity has helped raise awareness against and combat outdated stereotypes, advertisements still, unfortunately, emphasize the idea that men and women need different products. As a result, gendered marketing continues to overshadow a product’s actual function to, instead, promote ideas about what it means to be a man or a woman. Furthermore, gendered beauty products reinforce the gender binary and ultimately fail to account for non-binary and gender-fluid people. Gendered marketing may become less effective as consumers’ definitions of masculinity and femininity and gender identity continue to evolve. In recent years, companies like Milk Makeup, the Ordinary, and Ursa Major have gained popularity for their inclusivity and gender-neutral approach to personal care (Washington Post). Packaging is becoming more straightforward, minimalist, and neutral to attract a broader consumer base. The current male grooming industry and associated gendered products are rooted in concepts of toxic masculinity and ideas that self-care and cleanliness are inherently feminine interests, so men need their own line of products to easily practice hygiene. However, the recent rise of gender-neutral products and marketing in the industry will hopefully break down these harmful stereotypes, move us away from the era of the 3-in-1, and promote the idea that regardless of gender, makeup, self-care, and hygiene is for all. Sources:
Borgna, Ilaria, “Cosmetics and male consumers” (KosmeticaWorld.com, 2018) Carefoot, Helen, “Why beauty brands are removing gender from their marketing” (Washington Post, 2020) Cills, Hazel, “A Short History of Manly Beauty Products for Masculine Men” (Jezebel.com, 2019) Montell, Amanda, “From 4000 BCE to Today: The Fascinating History of Men and Makeup” (Byrdie, 2020) Taylor, Susan, “The Pink Tax: Why Women’s Products Often Cost More” (US News, 2016) “Understanding skin – How does male and female skin differ?” (Eucerin.com)
“...gendered marketing often overshadows a product’s actual function to promote ideas about what it means to be a man or a woman”
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@hcsignaturestyle
