SS TABLE OF
CONTENTS
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political clothing 5 afropunk 11 3 contributors 2 4 letter from the editor 2
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S7 17 athleisure 21 highlight: 24 hours with kc keppler
pantone colors
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jewerly 27
29 fashion abroad 27 behind the cover
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contributors kaitlin dunne editor-in-chief managerial director samantha donohue creative director margaret riordan photography director olivia fuller editorial director ali zildjian head stylist david dacres beauty director noelani stevenson publicity director gwyn sise publicity team nani suzuki beauty team leen al-zu’bi layout designers diana escorcia, jenna donovan photographers claire chang, diana escorcia, hannah honan, maddie rodden stylists naomi berger, nadav konforty, christine rosato, kennie zhou copy editors audrey darnis, olivia maddox, joshua rourke writers sabrina boutselis, marisa cooke, julia demaio, hannah honan, lynn kim, joyce lee, olivia maddox models rachel alatalo, emily buff, tim hartel, cimone jordan, kc keppler, jim larson, olivia melodia, zach oscar, marquis palmer, kendall rallins, delta reyes, liam rogers, willa rose, melodie rosen, adrian summers, junpei taguchi, chris victor
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letter from the editor W
hen brainstorming themes for SS7, we wanted to do something different. We wanted to showcase fashion as a means of expressing one’s voice and of demanding one’s opinion to be heard. At Signature Style, we believe that fashion is not about submitting to trends but rather challenging the norm and sparking change. There are many ways in which clothing can create conversation and we wanted a theme to be just as interpretive. Because of this, we decided upon the theme of bold. What does it mean to be bold? When coming up with article ideas for this issue, nearly every E-Board member had different meanings for this theme. To some, it means colorful and lively; to others, it’s daring and courageous; and for a few, it simply means confident. But that’s the beauty of bold: bold is all of these things.
Not only have we seen the appearance of this adjective used to describe trends in the fashion world — the revival of early 2000s dress à la Paris Hilton and the rise of social movements in major fashion houses such as Chanel and Dior — students at Hamilton as well easily encapsulate what it means to be bold. In this issue, we try to hone in on all angles of boldness. From monochromatic outfits in head-to- toe millennial pink to pairing black leggings with a sparkly crop-top and a fur coat, we explore the various ways Hamilton is bold. In collaboration with BLSU, we highlight alternative black fashion and culture in our Afropunk article. With the help of some politically active students on campus, we question the commodification of political movements by considering if “the future is female” t-shirts actually support the feminist movement or follow a trend that companies exploit to make a profit. Ultimately, we wanted to show how fashion can be used as a means of having a discussion. We want to use fashion to make a statement – and to do that is to be bold.
Stay bold.
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Dressing the body politic From Amelia Bloomer’s advocacy for women’s clothing reform during the 19th century to the resurgence of the dashiki among members of the 1960’s Black Power movement, clothing has long been a platform for social issues. This is no less true in today’s turbulent political climate. With the prevalence of the Black Lives Matter movement against anti-black police violence and the fourth wave of feminism, social justice is at the forefront of the national conversation like never before. These days, you can walk into a fast fashion retailer like H&M or Forever 21 and find numerous t-shirts with vaguely feminist, pro-girl messages on them in pink font. While being able to go into an H&M and buy a t-shirt that says “Girls Bite Back”, may seem like a sign of social progress, this nebulous feminism takes on an entirely different tone when you consider H&M’s manufacturing processes. The exploitative labor practices of fast fashion brands are no secret. According to The Sun, H&M factory employees in Cambodia are paid below the national minimum wage, regularly faint in excruciating heat, and are discouraged from unionization by intimidation. It is hard to consider a brand an advocate for women when its entire business model relies on illegally underpaying women of color working in sweatshop conditions to manufacture their product, a diluted form of affordable activism. This leads us to the other big women’s issue in fast fashion: the debate over a movement’s authenticity after it has been passed through a corporate lens.
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The kind of exposure that leads to commercialization can also lead to a de-radicalization of the movement. When asked her opinion on the validity of corporations capitalizing on social movements, Kendall stated, “It kind of loses some of its potency. I mean, if you can walk into a room and everyone’s wearing a slogan and not necessarily understanding the message that they’re sporting, then it dilutes the message overall.” This appears to be true. While H&M sells a t-shirt that says “GURLREVOLUTION,” there is no t-shirt on the next rack over that lists what we should be revolting against. Black Lives Matter does not appear to be susceptible to the same type of corporatization that complicates the feminist movement in clothing. Unfortunately, the stance that black lives do matter, is far more controversial in the United States than the concept of “girl power.” If there is any bright side, it is that this prevents the core ethos of the movement from being corrupted by a fast fashion retailer. According to Kendall, “if you were to see someone walking around in like, a Black Lives Matter t-shirt, that is a bit different, it’s supporting grassroots organizations, and you’re not seeing that grand commodification of social movements in that way.” In this way, the BLM movement retains its power to push people out of their comfort zones. Consumers are not as likely to become desensitized to it, because they are not bombarded with the slogan every time they step into a Forever 21. Emily noted how activist clothing supports the movement, “Some people don’t want to have to be forced to pay attention, or to be reminded of these issues. Wearing something that reminds everyone you come into contact with about what’s going on in the world whether or not they like it or want to admit it.” Undoubtedly, fashion is playing a role in activism like never before. It is a way to advocate for marginalized groups without denying their voices, and a way to provide financial support to grassroots movements. In 2017, it is impossible to deny the role of clothing in defending the personhood of the body that wears it.
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What are your thoughts on wearing your activism? I think that it can go one of two ways. I think that there’s definitely a commodification of activism, and of social movements right now. It’s kind of trendy to be, you know, politically conscious or “woke”. Everyone kind of wants to be that, or there’s this like, selling of it from larger corporations. You could walk into a Forever 21 and find a shirt that says “Feminist” or something like that, which is okay but there’s definitely, like, a commodification of activism and social movements. But I also think there are t-shirts that are really powerful in their political message. If you were to see someone walking around in like, a Black Lives Matter t-shirt, I feel like that is a bit different, because it’s supporting grassroots organizations, and you’re not seeing that grand commodification of social movements in that way.
kendall What do you think your role is as a person born with a good amount of privilege in an era like this? I think that participating actively as both an ally and an advocate is a necessary part of having privilege. You have to use it to break away those institutions that give you privilege, like actively working towards equality, working towards stopping the patriarchy, and working towards solving race and gender issues. As far as wearing a t-shirt that proclaims that kind of activism, how do you think that sends a message at face value, when you have a white man in a shirt that says “Smash the Patriarchy?” I feel like clothing can have a lot of symbolic value, and it can also be very visual. I feel like showing active allyship, partnership, and activism is something that needs to be visible, so it’s a way to become more visible without needing to constantly talk. Leaving room for others to speak is also very important as a person of privilege, so I think that as someone with so much privilege, it’s important for me not to speak over others but at the same time show support for things. I think that clothing is a way for that to be done.
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Do you think that when you capitalize on a movement like that it invalidates the message? Yeah, it kind of loses some of its potency. I mean, if you can walk in and everyone’s wearing it, not necessarily understanding the message that they’re sporting, then it dilutes the message overall.
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What are your thoughts as far as wearing a shirt with an activist message, like how do you think it supports the movement? I think it’s great because some people don’t want to have to be forced to pay attention, or to be reminded of these issues, I think wearing something that reminds everyone you come into contact with about what’s going on in the world whether or not they like it or want to admit it, and also because showing people who doubt that these movements are out there or that these movements are real, showing them that these movements have infiltrated even fashion, and mainstream fashion, is critical for showing that they exist and are active.
emily
As far as the movement infiltrating high fashion and high street fashion, how do you think that relates to the grassroots side of the movement? I think it’s debatable, I think it’s great to buy shirts with these slogans and that it’s great to have them accessible, I have some issues with like a $200 shirt that says like, “The Future is Female,” I think that’s not supporting the movement, because grassroots efforts have a really limited budget, and while I love that these movements have become a part of cultural norms, I take issue with high-end labels using it for money.
marquis
Do you have any thoughts on the jersey as a piece of political clothing in this current climate? Sure, Jackie Robinson was the first black player to enter major league baseball, and rocking his jersey is an attempt to carry forth and uphold his legacy. I wear it to show people that this meant something. And of course, sports have never not been politicized, the very origin of the sport, for instance, has, in some way or another, a connection to politics. Sports are always politicized, we’re just seeing it in a really pronounced manner, given Kaepernick, and his choice not to stand. by marisa cooke
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With a pop of blue lipstick matching her vibrant scarf, Cimone Jordan mixes earth tones on bottom with electric blue to create a relaxed, yet glamorous look. SS7 14
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With patrons donning daring looks that have creativity infused in every article of clothing, the Afropunk Festival in Brooklyn provides “a safe place, a blank space to freak out in, to construct a new reality.� While we could not recreate the whole festival here at Hamilton, Signature Style teamed up with BLSU to create looks in the spirit of Afropunk.
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Chris Victor brings denim on denim back with added edge in dotted metallic makeup. His slouchy white tee give a laid-back vibe that works perfectly with his avantgarde makeup.
Adrian Summers effortlessly rocks a casual and bright look with a multicolored coat and cool tee shirt.
Bright reds and flowers in her hair perfectly match Delta Reyes’ pleasant time in the sun. Light eyeliner only enhances her own glow.
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Wearing sportswear purely for fashion may seem like a fad of recent years, but it is truly here to stay. Athleisure is growing with the times; It is morphing into a more versatile style that isn’t something you throw-on to look effortless at Sunday brunch, but is something rather loud and bold. While it is definitely a statement to wear athletic clothing from head to toe, pairing sporty pieces with heels or a shimmery top adds an unexpected element to your outfit and takes it to the next level.
To wear a piece specifically designed to enhance athletic performance as street fashion completely disregards its original purpose and transforms it into something new. By throwing a piece’s function aside, the style is now the main focal point. Adidas track pants become a night-out staple when paired with a crop top and a choker necklace, while a sweatshirt can be worn with smokey eye makeup for an effortless yet bold look. The possibilities for combining athletic clothing with stylish pieces are endless. In essence, it is the bold contrast and complete disregard for a piece’s purpose that makes athleisure something we will be experimenting with this season and for many to come. by julia demaio
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24 hours with
kc keppler
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What pieces in your wardrobe are classic KC? My orange hoodie from Aritzia is a really big piece for me, because I had wanted one for seven years. Other classic pieces are a white tank top and a pair of jeans - that’s generally my uniform. For many people, style is an expression of the self. How would you describe your style, and what parts of yourself does it express? I’m a super organized person, so [in my closet], everything that’s hanging, including jackets, dresses, and materials that wrinkle easily are all color coordinated. Everything in my drawers are also well organized and are rolled up from white to black. [In terms of my style], I am generally a minimalist, so when I wear color, I’ll think about it a lot. I also like to dress things down, so if I have a piece that’s super dressy, I like to pair it with pieces that are more on the casual side. Some people say that if you don’t know how to dress for a party, you should always dress up, because then everyone else will look more casual next to you. I’ve always felt the opposite way; If I’m not perfectly dressed for the occasion, I’d rather be underdressed. Who and what are you inspired by? Do you have a style icon? I think that someone’s fashion iconography can come from so many different places, whether they see something scrolling through Instagram, or they see someone walking down the street and think, I need that shirt, but I want to style it in a different way. [I’m inspired by] my mom, and I’ll always take pieces out of her closet. She likes to wear classic pieces that make a statement. [Her style] is very bold… and big with color while remaining put together. My mom helped me come out of my cage of wearing only black, but [I’ve gotten] her to wear more black, so we definitely influence each other’s sense of fashion. When do you think your sense of style really solidified, if you think it ever does? I think that fashion is fluid and drastically changes over time; you discover new things, you grow as a person, and then what you
want to wear changes. There has never been a time when my fashion has really solidified. I was pretty emo back in middle school when I wore band tees, and dyed my hair [groans]. I look back and think, what the fuck, but I know that was how I felt at the time and that I felt great. [It’s] so crazy how much your fashion can change. Where are you from? Do you think that where you grew up has made an impact on your style? I’m from the Philippines and went to an international school there. It’s pretty typical for schools in the Philippines to require a school uniform. I liked not thinking very much about what to wear. My uniform was simply a polo shirt and shorts, which allowed me to focus on basic clothing factors like size and color. Because of this, those elements still really stand out to me when I’m buying basic pieces, and all my black and white t-shirts seem completely different from each other. Now being at Hamilton, do you think the change of environment has changed the way you dress at all? Definitely. The Philippines is a place where everyone loves color and you see it everywhere. For a long time, that was what made me veer away from wearing colorful pieces, and I chose to wear all black. Now, I’m allowing myself to have more fun with what I wear. Also, the Philippines is much more conservative, so in high school, I dressed more conservatively and closer to a preppy sense of style. I think that there’s more freedom to explore here. Where are your favorite places to shop for clothes? I think that there are standard stores like Aritzia and Madewell that will always have good pieces, but I also like to go into vintage stores. If I want to buy a statement piece, I prefer it to be from a more obscure store, because it’s nice knowing that no one else will have the same thing. I don’t think, other people can’t buy the same thing as me, but I don’t want to wear the same things that everyone else wears.
by joyce lee
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PANTONE TONE TONE
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C O L
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or seventeen years, the corporation Pantone Inc. has been examining the influence of colors such as “Fuchsia Rose,” “Chili Pepper,” and “Tangerine Tango” in a wide variety of industries: fashion, home furnishing, industrial design, and product packaging. Additionally, Pantone decides a “color of the year” in order to call attention to the most-used color within these industries. Last December, Pantone named “Greenery”––a fresh, bright, and yellowgreen color reminiscent of nascent nature in early spring––as the 2017 color of the year. Leatrice Eiseman, the Executive Director of the Pantone Color Institute Leatrice, explained how “Greenery” “bursts forth in 2017 to provide us with the hope we collectively yearn for amid a complex social and political landscape. [Greenery] symbolizes the reconnection we seek with nature, one another, and a larger purpose.” Color has always been a key element of fashion; it allows the designer to express an emotion or a personality through the clothing beyond its structure or material. It sets the mood almost immediately without much effort. Color gives the person choosing to wear an outfit the opportunity to convey a message about themselves. It can also acknowledge the current political or social climate, as Pantone decided Greenery did for 2017. In our daily lives, it can be easy to overlook color as a significant aspect of our outfits; one can simply throw on a white t-shirt and blue jeans and call it a day. While a tee and jeans is a classic look, intentionally incorporating––or intentionally not incorporating––color into an outfit can drastically change the message of that outfit. Signature Style dressed our models in monochromatic looks to examine the impact of each color. We chose three prominent colors that have consumed the fashion industry recently: a baby pink commonly referred to as “Millennial Pink,” an army or olive green, and a bright yellow known as “Gen Z Yellow.” Signature Style’s experimentation with monochromatic outfits exemplifies the significance of color in clothing. by lynn kim
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jewelry With more neutral and muted colors taking over for the fall and winter seasons, remember to keep your outfits fun and stay unique to your own style. Whether you decide to wear red tassel earrings for a splash of color or a chunky gold necklace for some texture, a fun statement accessory is the best way to take your outfit to the next level.
A bold ‘pop’
Think of your outfits like a blank palette. Neutral tones clothes essentially set the stage for an eye-catching piece. Just like with clothing, pairing accessories with complementary colors add a bold ‘pop’ to your outfit. When looking for jewelry to add to your wardrobe, think about colors or textures that could dress up a simple white t-shirt. Primary colors are bold and fun, and if you use them to color block your outfit, you can create an even more striking look. If you want to stick to a more minimalistic look, pair your outfit with a piece with of jewelry with a funky texture.
A flair of personality
When choosing jewelry to add to your wardrobe, think about colors or pieces that speak to your personality. If you are finding yourself getting bored with your clothes and want to add an unexpected element to outfit, wear pieces like a trendy choker that shows off your favorite fruit, or earrings with inspiration from an artist you love. These pieces are not only a great conversation starter, but also help to individualize your style. Once you find these pieces, you can throw them on with a simple black shirt or dress to fit any occasion.
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rachel
Remember not to underestimate the power of an accessory. One piece of jewelry can pull your outfit together and can eventually transform your whole look. Every person should own a piece of jewelry that speaks to them, no matter what style they have; it is simply a matter of experimenting and finding the pieces that speak to your personality. by olivia maddox
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When you think of the major fashion capitals in the world, Sydney probably doesn’t come to mind. Fashion in Sydney is something that flies under the radar and that’s because the very nature of Australian fashion subcultures relies on leisure, freedom, and the appearance of being “effortlessly cool”. Aussies approach all things in life with nonchalance. That’s just part of the Aussie mentality. Everything is more slow-paced and relaxed unlike the bustling environment in cities like New York. This mentality translates into Australians’ attitudes towards fashion. The neighborhoods in Sydney all have such different cultural climates that make a wide variety of fashion subcultures. The fashion in each area is all very distinct, but they all share the common laid-back aesthetic.
If I had to characterize a Sydneysider’s style in two ways I would say that it is mainstream vintage for some people and more athleisurefocused for others. Especially if you go to Bondi Beach, nearly everyone is wearing athletic clothes. If you go to some of the more art-focused innercity areas, you will see the vintage “hipster” crowd. Australia is geographically isolated which I think contributes somewhat to the fashion culture in that rigid trends are not quite so prevalent.
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ashion
Even in Australia’s metropolitan areas such as Sydney, which are multicultural, diverse, and vibrant, there’s a great level of seclusion from what happens in the fashion industry outside of the continent. Sydneysiders tend to march to the beat of their own drum. The warm climate in Sydney certainly contributes to the fashion choices people make. Men and women wear sunglasses pretty much every day and everywhere and that’s usually the first thing I notice about someone else’s outfit. Alot of people in Sydney are wearing retro sunglasses that have become quite mainstream on a global scale. These tiny little framed glasses often resemble ones worn in the 1990s.
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You will see at least one girl wearing a version of the clunky white Nirvana inspired glasses in every part of Sydney. Oversized sunglasses are not so popular, but again, you can see anything in Sydney. The great thing about Sydney is that you can wake up, roll out of bed wearing an oversized vintage T-Shirt, leaving your tousled hair down or gathering it all on the top of your head in a “top knot”. All you need to do is put on a pair of baggy Levis, white sneakers, grab your vintage sunglasses and you’re pretty much wearing the perfect outfit for brunch-- - brunch is basically an every day event in Sydney. At the local cafés, you see fashion bloggers with their acai bowls and casual ensembles and can’t help but want to dress like them. They look so effortlessly chic. Part of me thinks that they put a lot more effort into looking effortless, but the point is that they don’t even have to try. Oversized clothing is popular for women in Sydney. The fashion is far more unisex than in American cities and girls often play with a tomboy aesthetic while also wearing more feminine pieces. The men are also generally more fashion-forward in a bohemian hipster sort of way. They wear a lot of eclectic jewelry, have long hair and wear a lot of denim. I find that this gender-fluidity in dress mimics the easygoing attitudes people have as a whole. Another thing I noticed about fashion in Sydney is that it is the opposite of ostentatious. With local markets on the weekend being a big part of the fashion subcultures, you see the growth and high presence of smaller brands. You don’t see a lot of the big designer labels even in the wealthier Sydney suburbs. Women may be wearing expensive handbags, but they do not have the big name brand logos. Sydney is the dark horse for being one of the major fashion cities in the world. There aren’t any “rules” when it comes to fashion in Sydney. There aren’t things that are necessarily “in style”, but fashion is constantly changing and is arguably ahead of the global fashion curve. The fashion “trends” aren’t forced; casual vintage clothing is just what Sydneysiders naturally gravitate towards.
broad
by hannah honan
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behind the cover:
TAGUCHI
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HI
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Signature Style: Who are your fashion influences? Jungpei Taguchi: This is going to sound so weird, but Steve Jobs (laughs). You know, the minimalist style. There are also some brands that have a certain vibe that I really like. APC is one of my favorites. Comme des Garçons is super maximalist and sort of avant-garde, but sometimes there are pieces that aren’t so showy for me. APC and Acne would be my two favorite brands, but they’re expensive, so I can’t really rock them all the time. I’ll get basics from Uniqlo and Zara, stuff like that. I would say everyone in New York City [also influences my style]; just riding the subway and seeing what works for people. London [where I studied abroad] was also very fashionable, but in a different way. America’s on that athleisure flow and I’m not a huge fan of that, personally. In Europe, they’re all about vintage. In London, everybody wears something that’s thrifted. I really like that aspect. But I would say my influence comes from people around me in New York City mostly.
SS: What defines having “good style”? JT: I think it’s honestly just wearing what you want and owning up to it. Clothes can really be seen as a popularity thing. I think they should highlight your personality, so they should be specific to you. I think people who are able to embrace their quirkiness and specific style characterize having good style. The clothes should make you feel good; you shouldn’t wear them for anyone else. But I also think that, regardless of what you’re wearing, proportions are very important. Like, whether your clothes fit you well or not. Anyone could wear a white t-shirt, denim, and Converse, right? But I think [how good it looks] totally depends on how well it fits your body. With t-shirts, there are so many different fits and kinds of stitching. You have to find what works for you. That’s when it works. I think it’s honestly just knowing yourself, not just physically, but idealistically and artistically. That’s also trial and error.
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SS: Did growing up in New York influence changes in your style? JT: Yeah, I used to be a huge sneakerhead actually. At one point I had twelve or thirteen pairs of shoes––Jordans and Nike SBs. And then I kind of got out of it; I just traded all my shoes for a pair of Yeezys, and then sold those. I think that’s when I first got into fashion. The hypebeast community is interesting. A pair of shoes can be super ugly, but people would spend so much money on them anyway. When I was into streetwear, I would wear a lot of more showy things, depending on the brands. But you kind of lose your individuality through that. Everyone wants those specific shoes, and you have them, but everyone else also kind of has them, so that got a bit boring. I started to branch out. I guess my change from high school to college is that in high school, I used to buy a lot of middle to low brands for the brand name and have a big wardrobe. Now I invest in good quality, expensive things that will last me for a while. Instead of buying three pairs of jeans, I just stick with one Raw Denim.
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