Signe - Edition 20 by Signé

S I G N É

EXPLORING THE DEPTHS OF TIME

THROUGH AN EXCLUSIVE PHOTO-SHOOT, WE EXPLORE THE NOVELTIES UNVEILED BY A. LANGE & SÖHNE DURING SIHH16

A DRIVE BEYOND CARS

MERCEDES EXTENDS ITS LINE OF AUTOMOTIVE TO YACHTS AND HELICOPTERS, TAKING THE WORLD OF LUXURY TO GREATER HEIGHTS

RESIDING IN PARADISE

EDEN ISLAND, LOCATED IN SEYCHELLES, BEING CLOSE TO NATURE AND MODERN ADVANCEMENTS BECOMES AN IDEAL DESTINATION FOR SETTLEMENT

FABRIC OF NOBILITY

Introducing rare and precious fibres from remote parts of the world, Ermenegildo Zegna continues to maintain its heritage of producing fine quality fabrics

WALK WITH TIME He was a traveler, experiencing all hours of the earth. Planning trips with such great care, he and Time had merged. Grateful to the man for walking with him, not around, Time reassured heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d arrive anywhere he was bound.

#MakeTimeYourOwn

CONTENTS

Sprezzatura 032 WHEN CLASS GETS CLASSIC

Scholars

Savoir faire

Celebrate the spirit of innovation with Christian Louboutin this season as they introduce some fine fabrics, providing comfort and class to every shoe

PIONEER OF HAUTE COUTURE

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Cristobal Balenciaga was one of the first designers time has known to have curated everlasting designs, appreciated and adorned till date

Pal Zileri’s Creative Director gets candid with Signé, throwing some light over the brand’s revised appeal

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A-DRESSING TWIST

FASHION FORWARD

Dunhill’s SS16 collection incorporates the tastes of an English man whose wardrobe remains casual yet trendy across all seasons and occasions

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TIMELESS CREATIONS

REBEL WITH A CAUSE In an exclusive interview with Signé, Brunello Cucinelli spills the beans on the success of his eponymous brand

Grieb & Benzinger CEO - Georg Bartkoviak talks about the marque’s unique timepieces, while clarifying a few misconceptions about watchmaking

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SCENTED STORIES

An accomplished entrepreneur and a passionate race-driver, Ludovic Loffreda unveils different facets of his life

Histories de Parfums launches their latest perfume ‘This is not a Blue Bottle’, for those who create and write their own stories of life

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Signé picks some mesmerizing timepieces across collections of renowned watchmakers to adorn this summer

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ESSENTIALS

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FOR YOUR WRISTS

Evoking the much needed freshness and flavor are two fragrances - Cedro di Taormina by Acqua Di Parma and Mr.Burberry by Burberry

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For Her 042 THE JARRAR TOUCH Armed with practical knowledge and technique, the newly appointed Artistic Director of Lanvin, Bouchra jarrar, is all set to give a fresh lease of life to the oldest French Fashion House

Obsession 050

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EXPLORING THE DEPTHS OF TIME

ELEGANT COUTURE Dubai’s homegrown fashionista – Kristina Fedelskaya – gives conventional designs her unconventional touch, making them truly unique and praiseworthy

Embark on a journey with us to discover some of the notable novelties of A. Lange & Söhne, revealed during SIHH’16, in Signé style

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BESPOKE DESIGNS

REFINED HOROLOGY Franck Muller’s 7-day Power Reserve Skeleton takes fine watchmaking to a new, distinguished level of excellence

Designer of Four Seasons and many other dynamic properties around the region and beyond, Adam Tihany is a man of fine taste and pure sophistication

Art & Design

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EXCELLENCE THAT INSPIRES

Carrying woody and other nature inspired notes, the Baccarat Rouge 540 perfectly embodies and exhibits the relationship between nature and man

Emperador by Imperiali is a one-of-a-kind cigar box, that captures time and turns the entire process of lighting a cigar into a magical experience

ARTISTIC IMPRESSION

NATURE AND MAN

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Through a dedicated Art Program, Rolls-Royce partners with celebrated artist Mohammed Kazem to create a commissioned sculpture to be used for car designing

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CONTENTS

Haute Société 098

OF THE ELITE, FOR THE ELITE Continental Group sets new standards of quality and premium services through C’s 500, a private member’s business club, hosting their first annual gala evening in the region.

La dolce vita

Heritage

084 RESIDING IN PARADISE

072 FABRIC OF NOBILITY Renowned for sourcing and producing rare and quality fabrics from across the world, Ermenigildo Zegna not only celebrates its success but also supports and encourages craftsmen who have tirelessly worked to achieve this goal

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Comprising of natural beauty and ultra-luxury facilities, Eden Island, situated in Seychelles, becomes one of the most sought after travel destination, open to investment

A CLASSIC TOUCH Ideal for Cigar aficionados across the region is Fairmont – The Palm’s exclusive Cigar room, which provides much more than just a humidor of high-end cigars

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Citywalk becomes home to the ever-popular Farzi Café, which introduces molecular Indian cuisine for the first time in the region

Introducing luxury mobility through water and air in addition to land, Mercedes leaves many awe-inspired through its creative insight

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A DRIVE BEYOND CARS

ACCOMPLISHING A MILESTONE

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Commemorating the 85th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre collaborates with Christian Louboutin to produce a line of outstanding timepieces

Setting new standards for sporty cars is McLaren’s all new 570S, with a power like no other

A SPORTY EXTRAVAGANZA

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NEW IN TOWN Enjoy the last days of Spring 2016 by brunching at 3in1 at the Vida Downtown. For those looking out for a delicious treat, Artisan at DIFC is a must try. Meanwhile, don’t forget to visit Stefanel’s new store for all your shopping needs at the Dubai Mall

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DUBAI'S NEW ART CAPITAL IS GETTING READY MBRF & ARTUAE PROUDLY PRESENTS

HEART OF EMARAT ART - LITERATURE - MUSIC

LOCATION HOUSE OF POETRY SHEIKH SAEED AL MAKTOUM HOUSE HISTORICAL DISTRICT SHINDAGHA

www.houseofpoetry.org - www.artuae.org - 00971 56 543 2020

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SCHOLARS

PIONEER OF HAUTE COUTURE

PIONEER OF HAUTE COUTURE A name revered by fashion industry’s greatest stylists who gave the world some timeless designs, Cristobal Balenciaga is a designer worshipped by both young and old, within the world of fashion and beyond

Rashi Bisaria Cristobal Balenciaga’s most faithful clients included many from the royalty like the Queen of Spain, the Queen of Belgium, the Duchess of Windsor and Princess Grace of Monaco. Interestingly, Jacqueline Kennedy is known to have worn his extravagant designs and so have several other public figures. He once claimed that, ”A couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for colour, a musician for harmony and a philosopher for temperance.” Balenciaga himself lived this definition to the fullest. Born in Getaria, Spain, in 1895, Balenciaga was inspired by his mother who was a seamstress. He started taking interest in dressmaking and studied the same. By the age of 20 he had his own firm and soon became one of Spain’s leading couturiers. When the Spanish civil war broke out in 1936, he left the country and set up his work in Paris, opening his House of Balenciaga on the Avenue George V. Some of the styles we adorn today, without giving much thought to the person who created them, have, in fact been created by this master or have been influenced by his work. Some of his innovative creations from the 1950s are the tunic dresses, sack lines, the baby doll dresses which are nothing but milestones in the history of fashion. Fluidity and freedom were the hallmark of his creations. The international press referred to him as the ‘Master’ and the ‘King of Haute Couture’, his work being both austere and extravagant. Balenciaga’s collections presented features of historical Spanish fashion and his evening wear was ornate, flaunting

magnificent embroidery. By the end of World War II, Balenciaga had reached the full scale of his inventiveness. The tunic dress which is still a part of many wardrobes came into existence in 1955. It later developed into the chemise dress of 1957. In 1951, he transformed the silhouette completely, bringing about a fashion revolution. His designs had broader shoulders and no waist. In 1953 he introduced the balloon jacket which encased the upper body providing a pedestal to the head, the high-waisted baby doll dress, the cocoon coat and the balloon skirt. The sack dress which was introduced in 1957 was later copied by several ready-to-wear stylists at different price ranges. Following the trail, in 1959 he had created the empire line which included high-waisted dresses and kimono cuts. What Balenciaga had managed to achieve was a different look and silhouette for women through these innovations. He was not just a designer with knack and creativity, but also one who could change the tide of the fashion industry with path breaking creations.. The master couturier inspired other designers like Oscar de la Renta, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy, who went on to become skilled and celebrated designers. Where Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin and Emanuel Ungaro had practically worked in Balenciaga’s atelier, Givenchy became a protégé, who opened his own house in 1952. For thirty years Balenciaga’s styles and his haute couture house flourished in Paris. His daywear was simple, elegant and practical at the same time, while the evening gowns had puffy skirts in elaborate fabrics. The Spanish influence on his designs made them unique in their own way. He was very particular about

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the sleeve and paid special emphasis to this part of the clothing, wanting it to be a living sculpture with subtle folds. Blacks and Browns were his favourite colours which he used to perfection. Prints were not favoured by him, while embroidery and sequins featured often on his designs. Balenciaga was often called a ‘designer’s designer’ as advanced skills and understanding of the couture world were needed to fully appreciate his creations. Lavish embroidery, prints and architectural volumes defined his creations. Embroidered motifs supplied by some of the finest craftsmen of Paris embellished his outfits. Masters of embroidery such as Mesrine and Lesage supplied to the Balenciaga house regularly, enriching his work. The prints used by Balenciaga were usually semi-abstract floral designs and had large graphic motifs. The creations in the early years were grand, loud and made a strong statement. It was the nature of his flamboyant designs that earned him the name “Architect of Haute Couture”. By the late 50s and into the 60s, his creations became elegant and more casual. In 1968 he also designed uniforms for Air France airline’s air hostesses. This very year, the talented designer announced retirement and closed his fashion house in Paris after having spent fifty long years designing haute couture. He was a master of taste and technique. Oscar de la Renta famously said, “He is the only designer I can think of who never did anything in bad taste”. His influence on the fashion world remains present till now and can be witnessed on the fashion runways of today. He remains the original inspiration behind today’s haute couture.

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REBEL WITH A CAUSE

Brunello Cucinelli is a revered designer whose eponymous label defines trends and ushers in new concepts of luxury with a singular vision of how stylish life should be. Compelling and fascinating, the design genius talks fashion, philosophy, and the brand’s future

Niyoshi Chudgar Headquartered in the quaint hamlet of Solomeo, the Brunello Cucinelli empire is a force to be reckoned with. And the luxury maestro behind it dreams of building a company that will “survive for the next two or three centuries”. It may be a colossal ambition, but Cucinelli has his feet firmly on the ground. We take you through the tumultuous journey of the celebrated designer whose greatest laurel lies in pioneering the “ethicalisation” of the fashion industry. The bonafide “King of Cashmere” has a penchant for ancient classics, poetry and football, notwithstanding his desire for the relentless upward trajectory of the Cucinelli empire in the stock market. In an erratic industry that sees competition wreak havoc on share prices, reputation and nerves, Cucinelli enjoys an envious position of unrivalled security with a market capitalisation of more than $1.5 billion. Since he was a child, Cucinelli aspired to make a mark on the world. He grew up in the countryside in Umbria, not far from where his company is now based. His parents were farmers, and far from wealthy. A young Cucinelli frequently saw his father being illtreated at work, giving him the inspiration to focus on the moral and economic dignity of his employees today. The Italian designer has built his company around a deep respect for his staff, while keeping in mind the human impact of his business. He attributes his success to his refusal to run with the pack. The fashion mogul dropped out of engineering school at the age of 24, and decided – on a whim – to produce a collection of women’s sweaters in bright colours and trendy, oversized shapes. He was the first Italian designer to experiment with colours and cashmere. Primarily produced in neutral shades, Cucinelli reinvented it in vivid pops of colours and stylish silhouettes. In 1978, the first order for the label was for 53 sweaters. Last year, the company sold close to a million. Year after year, it rolls out collections that boast the most luxurious versions of cashmere in primal accents like elongated gilets, cropped pants, trapeze dresses, stretched pencil skirts and quilted vests. Cucinelli’s latest collection embraces athleisure in its most stylish form. Sporty-chic staples that line closets, retail shelves and the trendiest locker rooms across the globe have been restocked in fine wool, cashmere and hints of tweed. Embedded in artisanal craftsmanship, the clothes are infused with a contemporary, street

wear sensibility. Taking us through a voyage encompassing various eras, styles and cultures, his designs find appeal in dynamic explorations and meticulous construction. The key to Brunello Cucinelli’s success is attributed to the philosophy that lies behind it, a work ethic that has made the company known as an example of moral neo-capitalism. Its corporate dictum emphasises on giving the business a meaning that goes beyond profit and turnover, reinvesting to improve the lives of its workers and refurbish heritage sites. It’s no surprise then that Cucinelli remains the sole representative of the ethical movement in fashion, environment as well as culture. The entrepreneur has embraced a unique business philosophy that draws on renaissance, humanism and the theories of 20th century scholar Theodore Levitt, who preached that the purpose of establishing companies is to keep and serve customers. In tune with what Cucinelli calls a human capitalist philosophy, every piece of garment produced by his company boasts the Made in Italy label, and is produced mostly in and around Solomeo. He combines colours, shapes and silhouettes but what stays with you is the poignant image of artistry and quality. The Perugian village that Cucinelli has personally restored over the past 20 years is where his clothing empire is based. The company employs 720 workers and all of them, on average, are paid 20 percent more than the wage they would get elsewhere. His belief is that through work, we can reach the completeness of our soul. Cucinelli’s idealistic stance has earned him not only the exponential growth of his Italian maison, but also different accolades and awards. From the Imprenditore Olivettiano award in 2009 for his brilliant career in the fashion industry and the Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year award to the honorary degree in philosophy from the University of Perugia, he has received recognition in every sphere. With a turnover of 60 million euros, the conglomerate produces men’s and women’s collections as well as accessories, with major boutiques in Japan, Europe, Russia, US and now the UAE. With the taste for the lightweight, sporty aesthetic spreading like wildfire across fashion circuits, the Cucinelli empire is expected to deliver double-digit growth season after season, a true testament to the entrepreneur’s brilliance.

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SCHOLARS

REBEL WITH A CAUSE

“I think that manual skills – craftsmanship – are indispensable for Made in Italy and for our brand too, of course. Without our craftsmen and craftswomen, we wouldn’t be able to make the products we export all over the world.” BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

On the launch of Brunello Cucinelli’s first mono-brand store in the UAE at the Mall of Emirates in Dubai, Signé speaks to the man behind the label to explore his world through a closer lens. What was your childhood like? What did you want to do in your life back then and how has that inspired you to be who you are today? I lived on the countryside with my parents until I was 15. We were country people and worked on the land. I still remember its fragrance, and the happiness and carefree times of my youth. My parents then decided to move into town because my father had found a job in a factory. That was the time period during which I understood that whatever I did in life, it would be for the dignity of the individual since I often saw my father come home in tears saying: “What have I done against God to deserve being treated so badly by my employer?” He was often humiliated and offended, without any explanation. Witnessing this led to me forming the idea back then, even though I didn’t know at the time that I was going to start a business someday. From farming to engineering to fashion – what brought about such distinct transitions? Was fashion something you wanted to do or just another line that came along on the road towards self-discovery? In our part of Italy, Umbria, there’s a centuries-old tradition of knitwear production. When I was 25, I had the idea of producing colourful cashmere, as Benetton did with wool. I remember going to an industrial dyer and asking them to colour my cashmere, and they thought I was crazy. Once they were persuaded, I started making the first coloured cashmere items for women. Until then, cashmere was only done in neutral colours – white, grey, beige – and only for men. It immediately became a big success.

Brunello Cucinelli emphasises a lot on Italian craftsmanship. What does Italian craftsmanship mean to you? I think that manual skills – craftsmanship – are indispensable for Made in Italy and for our brand too, of course. Without our craftsmen and craftswomen, we wouldn’t be able to make the products we export all over the world. With the fashion industry becoming more and more saturated with different brands, what is the biggest challenge you foresee in the coming years? One of the biggest challenges will undoubtedly be finding the path to soft growth that enables us to stay exclusive. We currently export to 60 countries, have 117 monobrand stores, and 600 multi-brand ‘doors’. We’re excellently placed to grow at a sustainable rate.

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Do you wear only your own brand or mix and match with others? Generally speaking, I like to wear things that carry my name, but for five-a-side football with friends, I’ll always insist on Adidas footwear and gear. We heard that Gianni Agnelli and John F. Kennedy inspire your personal style. What are the nuances of their styles that you are drawn to? I think that Gianni Agnelli, or “The Lawyer” as we call him in Italy, was the perfect embodiment of Italian style, fashionwise but also in life… always subtly ironic and with enormous class. John F. Kennedy was an innovator in terms of human relationships, but unfortunately he left us too soon.

Being associated with the world of philosophy, you are a man of simple living. However, do you feel the need to connect more with mainstream audiences through social media or being active at events for more visibility? I lead a normal life. I live in a little medieval village and my friends are the ones I’ve always had. I think when we listed in 2012, we got extraordinary media visibility and this undoubtedly gave us big appeal. To stay exclusive, on the other hand, we must preserve this alluring halo around Solomeo. How would you define yourself? Above all, I’d like to be remembered over the years as a “decent type”.

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RACE AGAINST TIME From France to Dubai, the journey to success of our Signé man, Mr. Ludovic Paco Loffreda, is impeccable and interesting. Fond of radical racing, he takes us through his life, page-by-page, from how it all began

Diksha Vohra Accepting challenges in life is one thing, but thriving over them and welcoming them with grace and anticipation is an attribute only possessed by a few. Ludovic Paco Loffreda is one such man who doesn’t shy away from taking risks and subsequent decisions, and he is not afraid of making mistakes. Founder and CEO of LPL Group, Ludovic believes in balancing his priorities to make time for everything he deserves and desires. Studying in France, Ludovic recollects to have never imagined coming to Dubai. After completing his high school in France, he joined the Business School but dropped out of it a year later. As a part of the program, he had to complete an internship outside France, which was what brought him to Dubai. Back then, in 2008, when recession had hit the rocks across the world, Ludovic started his business. He mentions, “I came to Dubai in 2008 to set up my medical equipment supply company. I started alone doing door-to-door distributions for medical equipment.” Where for the rest of the country 2008 proved to be a year of financial difficulty and instability, Ludovic looked at it all from an optimistic perspective. According to him, it was that year that decided the future of the country as only the ones who were financially stable and on good terms, remained. Since banks were not lending then, only those who could afford cash transactions actually sustained. Despite maintaining a positive outlook during difficult times, the start wasn’t a cakewalk for Ludovic. Having borrowed money from the bank in lieu of studying more, he used that amount to start his own business at the mere age of 18. Since he was fresh, young and talented, soon he was approached by LPG, market leaders in anti-ageing and slimming equipment, to distribute their products. Being the only French speaker in the industry then, LPG preferred him to others to carry out distribution in the Middle East. Claims the entrepreneur, “We brought the company to another level here in the Middle East and now we have 15 employees doing only LPG.” This was, however, only the beginning for Ludovic, whose belief in his ideals and willingness to acquire expertise in various fields lead him to establishing 13 companies dealing in merchandising, graphic design, software solutions, robotics, insurance and much more. Commenting on the ability of doing good business, Ludovic brushes off the myth that graduation degrees determine the future of an individual. As per him, there are a lot of people with degrees and they do have some value. However, degrees without experience do not produce efficient individuals. He prefers working with those who have a lot of experience, despite not being backed by great degrees, because they prove to be more effective and productive for the company. Interestingly, a lot of his

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“If a driver is faster than you, it’s either he has more skills or more experience. But there is always a reason.” L U D O V I C PA C O L O F F R E D A

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staff today initially joined him as interns and he gives credit to all of them for the rise of his enterprise. Being a fast growing entrepreneur, he does believe that one needs to maintain a balance in life, which is difficult but not impossible. For him, business is a part of his family too and there is a dire need to satisfy everything and everyone so that one doesn’t lose track of events occurring on either sides. “Anyone that has a good balance doesn’t have too many issues in his company”, he adds. Moving on, apart from business, the world of racing too gets to witness a pinnacle of his fondness for excellence and perfection. His evergrowing passion for racing adds a fascinating touch to his professional personality. Surprisingly, he isn’t too old in the field. He was introduced to racing through a friend Jordan Grogor, who was a pro driver. He brought him on to the track for the first time in 2012 where he used to drive Ludovic’s car. Ludovic remembers, “…It was a Porsche GT3 at the time and after costing me a fortune on spare parts, he said you should join us in a proper race-car designed to be on the track.” Grogor taught him the techniques of racing professionally after which he purchased his first racing car. An after work stress reliever, racing started to become a sport he was enjoying and mastering by the side, which inspired him to introduce his own racing team – Lucco Racing, a Dubai based company that competes in the Radical Racing series. There was no looking back for Ludovic then who adds that with his co-driver Romain Lutter, he started attending and winning various races and championships. Radical Racing, as a sport, remains quite undercover being an expensive sport. Talking about Radicals, he explains that the Radicals

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are basically two seater cars, which are just like racing cars. After the Formula One car, a Radical is the fastest car on the track. On being asked why he chose Radical Racing, he said, “…It is quite an accessible sport. Obviously finance is a big issue, you have to be quite financially solid or you to find sponsors who can assist you. In terms of driving skills, the series has plenty of different levels of drivers who enjoy their time in the car. The most important thing is having fun.” Having many racing accolades to his credit, Ludovic’s thirst to pioneer the sport does not seem to quench. Making it a point to watch his racing videos in order to catch his mistakes and avoid repeating them next time, he maintains a prudent approach towards racing. For him, its not about being confident but its about knowing what one can do and what one cannot do. He affirms, “If a driver is faster than you, it’s either he has more skills or more experience. But there is always a reason.” Comparing it to business, he claims that there is always something one can learn by watching and observing others. One may not want to be like them, but its crucial to understand why others are different and what needs to be changed on our side to bring us there. Its all about estimating your potential and enhancing it overtime. Since he is both into racing and business, he expresses his fondness towards classic cars but for investment. Considering classic cars are as good as assets that appreciate in value overtime, he likes to purchase them and even use them during racing. “We have a racing team with two cars and we are doing well. I have plenty of cars. I have most of the brands but I like old cars, so old Ferraris, Masseratis, Jaguars and Porsches” he concludes.

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FASHION FORWARD In its new persona, Italian menswear brand Pal Zileri effortlessly keeps one foot firmly rooted in the past and the other steadily progressing towards the future. Creative Director Mauro Ravizza Krieger reflects on the label’s sartorial heritage while elaborating on its dynamic design direction

Beverly Pereira The artful balance of classic and contemporary is by no means every brand’s prerogative. It is, however, especially important if a heritage brand seeks to stay ahead of the pack in these progressive times. For luxury menswear label Pal Zileri, realigning with a modern approach while retaining quality and craftsmanship as its cornerstone has been an evolutionary journey. The Milan-based brand’s new design direction focuses on Avant-Craft, a concept that encapsulates a dynamic approach to the timeless tradition of Italian tailoring. This shift towards the synthesis of fierce loyalty to cultural roots with an experimental vision was in the making since 2014, when the Italian brand named Paolo Roviera as its new CEO, and Mauro Ravizza Krieger as its Creative Director. Founded in Italy’s historic Vicenza province in 1970, the label’s new, spirited approach to fashion is evident across every line including men’s urban attire and accessories, eveningwear and sportswear. Yet, the repositioned Pal Zileri hasn’t forgotten its connection to the arts. Prints, bold colours, and 20th century kinetic and optical art influenced the Pal Zileri SpringSummer 2016 collection, for example. “It all started in Paris. Two years ago, I went to see an art exhibition in Paris called Dynamo that focused on kinetic art,” explains Krieger. He

says that while the ‘50s and ‘70s inspired the exhibition, it was projected towards the future. “That’s exactly what we are trying to do today with Pal Zileri – take a heritage company and project it into the future.” The exhibition also inspired him to choose certain fabrics, patterns and elements that added a three-dimensional effect to garments. Indeed, Pal Zileri’s new Avant-Craft philosophy is very much apparent in the meticulous use of details and fabrics. “[It’s about] the craftsmanship heritage from the past projected towards the future, with more modern cuts, proportions, fabrics. It is a fusion between tradition and modernity or innovation. We can see it very clearly in our sportswear, where we use new technologies to make wool waterproof,” says Krieger. An example of this is a coat made from waterproof wool with down for its lining, and patch pockets in Astrakhan. “So in one piece of clothing, you have a piece of glamour, a brand new technology, and the comfortable sportswear aspect to it. It’s not nylon sportswear, but sportswear inspired by the sartorial culture.” Furthermore, every Pal Zileri garment is still entirely produced in Italy, either locally at its Quinto Vicentino manufacture or by a select network of Italian craftsmen. According to Krieger, Andrea Palladio – an architect from the 1500s who created villas

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and palaces in Venice that were well ahead of their time – continues to be a long-time inspiration for the company. The Italian architect’s aesthetic style blended classical traditions with the introduction of new Renaissance elements. “Thomas Jefferson was inspired by Palladio to build the White House. Most of the houses built by Palladio are in the Vicenza area, where the Pal Zileri factory is located. Palladio modernised ancient Roman architecture, and Pal Zileri is modernising traditional clothing,” says Krieger, drawing parallels between the two. Even the label’s new address for its showrooms, executive department, and design department in the Milanese fashion district of Via Morimondo still maintains its steady relationship with the arts. The brand is also a staunch believer in collaborating with young international artists to curate a contemporary portfolio of art that is installed in Pal Zileri’s network of stores across the world. Pal Zileri’s myriad of art-driven influences are also conveyed through its Fall-Winter 2016 collection. “We took inspiration from Josef Albers, a German painter from the Bauhaus school of the 1930s who emigrated to the US. He spent all his life representing squares in various grades of colour,” explains Krieger, adding that Albers’ concentric squares represent the

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“The Pal Zileri man doesn’t care about his age. It’s all a question of attitude, of approaching formal attire with a new attitude” M A U R O R AV I Z Z A K R I E G E R

view of the Chichen Itza’s stepped pyramid when viewed from above. “At the time, that was a very modern and futuristic approach. It’s fundamental to study the past in order to understand the future,” he says, emphasising that the customer also stands at the centre of the house’s inspiration. Who, then, is the typical Pal Zileri customer? According to Krieger, the Pal Zileri man encompasses all the cultural generations of the world as well as the new generations who lead an active life and inhabit an international lifestyle. “The Pal Zileri man doesn’t care about his age. It’s all a question of attitude, of approaching formal attire with a new attitude. The average customer is roughly 40 years old and someone who dresses up for himself.” In its new chapter, Pal Zileri appeals to this new world of millennial men’s fashion without tainting its sartorial image. An

illustration of this is the brand’s day-tonight attire. “Today we wake up, go to work and then have drinks after work, so we have to be dressed the same all day long. We applied Lurex on some jerseys so they look more elegant at night, yet are totally wearable during the day. It changes the image of the look,” explains Krieger. “The accessories are less classic. We prefer to use backpacks instead of handbags to bring in a more dynamic look. We are using all of these tricks to give our customers a new product. It’s not only for people who are passionate about sartorial garments, but also those from new generations.” Krieger would know much about the successful repositioning of brands. After all, he learned every trick of the trade – right down to the importance of fabrics and cuts – in a range of roles long before he became an authority on men’s apparel. Before joining

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Pal Zileri, he was an external consultant to several companies, a professional post that gave him the ability to look at the same customer from different angles. “Today, it’s the first time that I’m trying to consolidate my journey and experiences to apply them onto Pal Zileri,” says the creative head, who started working with Caruso – the longstanding tailor to leading global fashion brands – in order to learn about fabric cuts. “I was never a tailor, but I got from him a taste of it and the pleasure to go back to the factory at night to see the finished garments that were produced during the day.” He then chanced upon a man from Como, who studied in London and never returned, but began exporting fabrics to Italy. “I started to go with him to England and so I was in daily contact with the small tailors from London’s Savile Row, where I passed one summer and learned a lot about

fabrics,” says Krieger. He later collaborated with Herno, a brand that created the first superlight winter down jacket. “I then worked with Loro Piana, where I was in charge of the technical fabrics, so [it concerned] technology combined with classic garments. Through my journey, I always had the chance to learn about the most classical aspects of clothing right up to the most technological,” explains Krieger, his gratitude stressing on the fact that his was not a planned journey, but one that came together perfectly. On the secret behind the seamless repositioning of Pal Zileri, he says: “Today, it’s impossible to create a brand new brand. It’s easier to work on an old building with a story behind it to give it a new life. That’s my approach. The main challenge is to change the mentality of the people in the company, and make them accept the changes, the evolution and the vision. Essentially, the

main challenge is to transform the DNA of a company.” Krieger says he has been undertaking the transition by first striving to create a new culture inside the company. “Now we need to take it out into the market. It’s been a year and a half since we have been working on this project, but only around six months since our customers are able to appreciate this change through the new collections.” To this end, Pal Zileri is working on effective brand communication. Having already brought the brand to the catwalk, thereby giving it a 360-degree visibility, an ongoing challenge is to change the look and feel of the stores. Made-to-measure offerings is yet another new aspect in the label’s reformed tactics. “It’s an interesting part of Pal Zileri, and we are using the name that the company once used to define made-to-measure, which is ‘Abito Privato’, or private suit,”

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explains Krieger, citing the combination of two approaches for this service. While the traditional approach takes into consideration the fit of the suit, the new approach adds a more personalised feel. “You can choose the type of lining with patterns, for example, so it’s made-to-measure directed towards personalisation. It is custom-made. The Abito Privato becomes an expression of your own personality because you personalise it.” The Middle East figures largely in Pal Zileri’s journey to reveal its new identity. “We recently opened in Beirut, and rebranded a store in Dubai. The company is enjoying a lot of success in Dubai and our two stores are working really well. We will soon open in Doha,” reports Krieger. Many things might have changed through the mighty task of the Pal Zileri reboot, but like the label’s connection to the arts, consistency is another factor that has remained untouched.

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T I M E L E S S C R E AT I O N S

TIMELESS CREATIONS Grieb & Benzinger handcrafts one-of-a-kind timepieces based on historical movements. In an exclusive interview, CEO Georg Bartkowiak elaborates on the uniqueness of the luxury watch manufacturer’s pieces and its heritage art-driven philosophy, while busting a few misconceptions

Beverly Pereira

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Grieb & Benzinger was born out of a chance meeting between master watchmaker and restoration genius Hermann Grieb and Jochen Benzinger, an engraving master, at a watchmaker’s wedding in Vienna. Although their first watch, launched between 2005 and 2006, was simply engraved and guillochéd, the German boutique watchmaker has since crafted some of the world’s most unique timepieces adorned using rare techniques like hand engraving, skeletonising and hand-guilloche. When the company’s current CEO and creative whirlwind, Georg Bartkowiak, joined the team in 2008, he aimed to reposition the brand with what it really stood for. “We finally ended up with high-end complications built on old, historical calibres; and also the launch of a new calibre,” shares Bartkowiak, who previously worked as a brand manager for Tourneau in the US. Instantly recognisable is its Platinum Masterpieces line, made up of inexplicably unique watches based on high value and often on historical movements from the legendary grand masters of watch making with complications such as chronographs, tourbillons and minute repeaters.

You bring your business acumen to the table at Grieb & Benzinger. Tell us more. Besides brand development, I’m also the creative guy. It’s a combination of everything; everyone brings in his own abilities. There are other important people in the company like the talented master goldsmith Albrecht Bolz. Much of our techniques require goldsmith work. Hand skeletisation is not a watchmaking technique; it concerns jewellery. People imagine your brand to be one that takes something old and turns it into something new. How do you look at this philosophy? Our philosophy revolves around craftsmanship, which must be visible in any watch we create. If some people wonder whether the watch will be conservative, it’s fine; if they say it looks like a Breguet, that’s a big compliment. The only thing that’s important is that they say it’s well done. We cannot match everyone’s taste. It will never happen.

What is the story of the brand? The company is based on the formal idea of using old techniques of engraving and guilloche that Jochen specialises in, and with Hermann being a specialist for antique time mechanisms. Hermann thinks differently and doesn’t look at watches as ticking instruments. He sees them as mechanisms, the combination of gears, screws, bevels and barrels. He understands why these things are moving, why they keep ticking and why they do not stop. This is one secret that most watchmakers do not understand. He is able to reproduce missing components of a watch, whether it’s from 1890, 1940 or 1980. It’s an ability that’s a rare gift, and even in Switzerland you won’t find this common. He had a standard classic education as a watchmaker starting at the age of 15. He collected antique things, mechanisms and everything that was mechanical. From then on, his thinking changed and that is now the key to making a Grieb & Benzinger watch.

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Do you see a Grieb & Benzinger watch as a very modern representation of a classic? Or do you look at it as taking something and making a classic out of it? For us, whatever we use, be it a modern movement or a heritage movement, in the end, it’s a raw material. If we have an oeuvre from 1890, a heritage movement, it becomes new because we redefine it. If we do the same work on the Merit, which is a 20-year-old movement, it turns a contemporary movement into a Grieb & Benzinger art timepiece based on heritage techniques that we use. Even if we go back to the history of watchmaking and take a Patek Philippe movement from 1890, it wasn’t actually a movement built by Patek Philippe because they got ébauches from other companies that they finished according to their fine specifications. Watchmaking always depended on specialized suppliers like Minerva, LeCoultre and Agassiz. Cartier movements from as early as the 1920s are Agassiz or Minerva. It’s about the artistry behind the watch. You’ll see passionate, hardworking and motivated craftsmen at our workshop who use techniques that were used 100 or 200 years ago.

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T I M E L E S S C R E AT I O N S

When you think German watches, the words that come to mind are classic, conservative and clean-cut design. Your brand takes this to another level and still stays German at its core. How do you stand alongside your German watchmaking counterparts? It’s not about the nation because watchmaking is an international thing. You have watchmakers who are Finish, Swiss, French, German and so on. Maybe we can talk about the characters behind the brand. If you look at Grieb, he doesn’t follow rules but relies on his artistry. Jochen follows his own rules, too, and presents his interpretation of skeletonizing. Our process involves scanning the watch before to see where there’s a functional piece. Only then can we figure out where we can skeletonize, where we can reduce material without losing functionality. It’s like German engineering but in another way. At the end, it’s engineering in a laborious manner. You have to balance the rigidity with functionality because if we reduce materials in the movement, it might affect the functionality. All these aspects together make up the elegant lines of our style. We have a DNA that is born by using special techniques and the force to investigate the mechanism’s technical layout to find out in what areas we can reduce or add. In an age that relies on computerization, how do you foster the environment of artistry in-house? Externally, do

you support such initiatives to retain craftsmanship and handwork? If you have a trainee, you have to train him and we don’t have that kind of time. It’s about the problem of time. Grieb could do that but he has to work on complications. What we look for, then, are people who already have experience of 20 years in the industry. This year we added another watchmaker to our team who works and thinks in the same way that we do. We are a team of six people, including me. We create around 60 to 70 pieces a year. Every team member has his or her own process to work on. For instance, Benzinger does all the complicated guilloches and engraving, Grieb works on the complicated watches, while another watchmaker does the basic watches. Benzinger and I also work on the designs and creation. Each watch goes to the next person in the production line, but, for instance, if the production line at assembly or guilloche is blocked, it’s blocked. It takes a certain amount of time to make a Grieb & Benzinger. In today’s market, complex components like carbon and multiple sapphires are being used. What are your thoughts on this? Abraham-Louis Breguet led the way in his day and if he were still alive, he would be leading the way today. We still work with old techniques, but I know that new techniques have their own reason for existing right now. We cannot always live in the past. But when you think about this is a more classical way, you’ll always come

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back to classical materials. The only thing we’ve been thinking about is to get another alloy into the line, but this is just for the Middle Eastern region because people have been requesting for something that isn’t rose gold, white gold or platinum. We have been working on a material called Titalium, a mixture of titanium, aluminum and a special platinum alloy that’s only 60% platinum with another alloy, which we might introduce this year. The new alloy is light, doesn’t cause skin reactions, and allows us to follow the rules of the religious people here. It’s not steel because that would not fit in with our brand. People expect steel to be cheap. Now if we go with Titalium, we can reduce the price by at least 25%, which is not a lot, but still positions us as high-end.

that, it started to run and it still runs. The repeater watches are also complicated, but because they are older they are more robust and easier to work on. How do you source movements for a Grieb & Benzinger? We have sourced watch movements for years and we have bought watches and movements for good prices. Sometimes people need money when the economy is terrible. On days like this, we can source components and movements that are usually impossible to get. We look at what movements are available and then we design around them. Sometimes, we don’t even have a design in mind when we get offers for movements that have big potential such as a Patek Philippe. We just buy them because they’re rare.

What was the most unusual request you’ve entertained for a customized timepiece? The Area 51 watch that a father had commissioned us to make for his son’s 12th birthday was the most unusual. The original idea was that the boy wanted to get a tourbillon by another brand with aliens on it, but the father said he didn’t like that brand. When the father came to us, he believed that we could make it look cool. We wondered how we could possibly execute such a concept, but in the end we thought of an idea. We referenced the liquid metal aliens from Terminator and created a moon surface with craters. On the case back, you still see an old design of Grieb & Benzinger, which retains our typical DNA. You see the guilloche bezel and the typical hands of our watches. So even though it doesn’t appear to be a typical watch, it was still in line. What’s the most complex watch that Grieb & Benzinger has created? According to me, it was the Blue Whirlwind that was built four years ago. It was based on the manually wound Patek Philippe tourbillon minute repeater R TO 27 PS. We skeletonized the Patek base plate to see the tourbillon from the dial, which is nearly impossible. We then replaced the gold tourbillon drive wheel with a glass wheel. It sounds very easy, but it wasn’t because we realised that we couldn’t make the glass thinner. So, at the end, the screws of the tourbillon were on the glass. We had to rebuild the tourbillon and cut down on the screws of the tourbillon. After

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Do you get nervous when these watches are taken apart? I’m not nervous about these things; I don’t even watch! Grieb is the watchmaker and he sometimes gets nervous during this process. We once lost a functional part of a minute repeater from Patek, and nobody knew where it went. We have to rebuild such parts because it’s not easy to replace these components. What are some of Grieb & Benzinger’s current highlights? What’s in store for the future? In Dubai, we have two masterpieces — the Blue Merit and the Blue Sensation. The first is a German-based watch, which is important for us. The Made in Germany label is normal for cars, but the tag only became famous through A. Lange & Söhne in the last 20 years. It makes us very proud. The Blue Sensation is one of my all-time favourites because it shows all the arts and crafts that we have. Patek Philippe built the base movement in 1889 for Tiffany, the same year that the Brits invented the Made in Germany label and law because they wanted to warn the people about the bad quality of German products. Today, it’s quite the opposite. Within the next two months, we will announce our in-house movement. This one is our own tourbillon with a remontoire movement, which was designed and created not by Swiss engineering but by Grieb & Benzinger. It’s the biggest highlight for us after seven years.

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SCENTED STORIES

With each bottle conveying the personality traits of a historic character, Histoires de Parfums’ evokes old times and emotions through each fragrance. Gérald Ghislain talks about the concept and their latest creation ‘This is Not a Blue Bottle’

Diksha Vohra

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He is neither a perfumer nor a restaurateur at heart but a creative personality who chooses to communicate stories through everything he touches. Gérald Ghislain’s Histoires de Parfums’ is a manifestation of his creative insight, but this time a fragrant one. Where the world portrays historic influencers through their pens or brushes, he does it through his perfumes. Signé sits over a coffee with the renowned perfumer to discuss his journey, current collections and future goals. You like working with the past. How about yours? What did you want to become when you were young? I wanted to become a billionaire. As time progressed, I realized I couldn’t become one, which, at one point, drowned me into depression, but now I realize the importance of doing what satisfies one within than running behind money. On a practical note, when I was young, I really did not envisage taking upon a particular career. All I wanted to be identified was for my creativity. A creative man can be anything – a perfumer, restaurateur, painter or anything. Even in a restaurant, for example, one needs to be very creative to create the perfect environment for different people with different tastes. Right from the food, to the ambiance, the music, decoration and service, everything needs to be proper. With perfumes, however, the extent of creativity is limited to you and your bottle. Since you are designing your fragrance, you have enough control over its execution unlike a restaurant where even if someone else makes a mistake, the restaurateur has the blame share to himself. Coming to the restaurant bit, you launched your restaurant at a very early age. How did that come about? I had entered the industry at a very young age. Cleaning utensils was my first job after which I started preparing simple salads and serving people. It was only when I started working in a full fledged restaurant that I realized the difference between home cooking and restaurant cooking, and the responsibility the latter brings upon one. I enjoyed it for sometime as that allowed me to socialize and interact with the world out there, which inspired me to set up my first restaurant when I was 24 years old. From restaurants to fragrances, what made you shift your line? Which of these do you enjoy more? I ran into the world of perfumes by accident. I have always adorned the restaurant business but after sometime I got frustrated because of my inability to ensure perfection every time. It was during this period that I visited the Museum of Perfumery in Grasse, France wherein I came across an array of fragrances. I kept on trying a few till I discovered an inherent liking for fragrances, which was soon to transform into a business. When I begun, the brand meant pure business to me and now it is nothing but pure, unadulterated passion.

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SCENTED STORIES

Gérald Ghislain

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Histoires de Parfums’ tells stories of characters. Can you elaborate more on the concept and the inspiration behind it? Histoires de Parfums’ literally means histories or stories of perfumes. Unlike writers, I am not talented enough to write stories and express my feelings with words. So I translate those stories and events into scents. When people write, they start off on a blank page. I do the same with the only difference being that instead of adding words, I use ingredients to convey certain emotions and traits peculiar to a particular personality. When I had started the brand 15 years ago, I envisioned four women from different walks of life, which inspired my first collection. For instance, the last empress of France inspired the first fragrance of ours which communicated a shy, soft and oriental feel. Similarly there are others that convey feelings of romance, masculinity and other traits. The customer only needs to connect with the emotions and is free to create his own story with it When you create perfumes, do you have certain kind of clients in mind, which can adorn your fragrances, or do you have a historic character in mind whose personality you evoke through your fragrances, for people of similar tastes to adorn? I am not a marketer and hence, I don’t have an ideal client in mind. My perfumes are for everyone, whoever can relate to it can adorn it. One fragrance might evoke certain memories for a young individual and the same fragrance might mean something else to an older individual. The appeal of perfumes is very subjective. Hence, behind each perfume, lies an untold story.

pick different words you like and when you put them together in an order you like, you have a different language. The composition of this fragrance opens with aldehydes and cheerful orange zests, exchanging warm shades of honey and tart with metal shades of geranium at its heart. The base provides musk, patchouli and amber. Its, hence, a mix of very high end raw materials thereby creating a wonderfully layered scent. Three myths about perfumery that you would like to clarify...? The first most common misconception is that natural raw materials are the best to use, which is not true. There are some really good sedative raw materials, which give a special touch to the fragrance. Its better to use good sedative raw materials than using bad natural raw materials. The second myth has to be that you cannot mix two perfumes. Sometimes, in order to create a new scent, you might need to mix two other scents together and there are no rights or wrongs in this. The choice is absolutely personal and subjective. The most interesting one is that amber comes from stone whereas it actually comes from the vomit of whales. Whales feed upon shrimps and calamari and sometimes their body cannot digest the bones of the calamari, which they vomit. Their vomit, over years, mixes with the smell of the sea and other surrounding objects and then begins to give an unusual scent. Amber is thus one of the most difficult to source raw materials.

How do you create perfumes? Take us through a step-by-step procedure from where the idea is envisioned and how it is brought into production and then executed? As I mentioned, I need to have a story in mind to convey through my fragrances. Once I have that, I then start putting ingredients together and start writing the formulas down. For example, would I need to use 2% rose or 3% vanilla and so on so forth. Once the combinations are ready, I smell the end product. If it is not something similar to the picture I have in mind, then I try again and again till I design the desired scent. The process is very different as there is no ‘perfect way’ of doing it, with the scope of improvement always being there. Since the appeal is very subjective, someone might like fresh fragrances and someone might like a little spicy one. It is an art that takes time. it might take three weeks or it might take two years. It all depends on what you want at the end of the day. Tell us about your latest creation – This is NOT a Blue Bottle. I like telling stories, as you would have already guessed. However, with this fragrance I chose not to tell any. I mentioned about writing stories on a white page. With this fragrance the only difference is that it is a blue page. For this particular perfume, I took all ingredients I loved the most and put them together to create this unique perfume. Since there is no story behind the creation of this, I leave my clients to decide which story they would like to write with it. Its like you open a dictionary and

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S P R E Z Z AT U R A

WHEN CLASS GETS CLASSIC

WHEN CLASS GETS CLASSIC CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN SS16 Revered styles of Louboutin take fresh and new shapes this season alongside standard seasonal styles. Making their way right from their Naples factory, each piece reflects hours of precise work and craftsmanship. Making their respective debuts, four new classics - Cousin Charles, Cousin Dand, Cousin Greg and Cousin Tass - showcase the ongoing evolution of key styles each season, now boasting Blake stitched soles and updated silhouettes

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WHEN CLASS GETS CLASSIC

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A-DRESSING TWIST

A-DRESSING TWIST Representing the enthusiasm for fashion among English men that is casually overlooked, Dunhill’s SS16 celebrate the idiosyncratic twists that they bring to the most formal of wardrobes

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FOR YOUR WRISTS

FOR YOUR WRISTS Time is certainly the most valuable thing man has ever known. For watch aficionados, however, timepieces carry as much importance as time itself, if not more. Reflecting on some classic timepieces, Signé presents a selection for our discerning watch lovers

BLANCPAIN : THE GREAT WAVE

JACQUET DROZ : GRANDE SECONDE DUAL TIME

Highlighting Blancpain’s customary Japanese rokushó technique along with a new gemstone, this watch takes inspiration from the motion of the sea.

Celebrating the magic in a twin-beat tempo, the watch adopts a brand new mechanism in addition to the elegantly positioned second time zone. BREGUET : CLASSIQUE HORA MUNDI 5727 This timepiece stands out for featuring an instant-jump time-zone display system with synchronized date, day/night and city indicators for the first time in the line of Breguet.

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HUBLOT : THE CLASSIC FUSION

PATEK PHILIPPE: GRANDMASTER CHIME RED 6300

Berluti’s emblematic Venezia leather and its famous patina, partnering with Hublot’s innovation in watchmaking creates The Classic Fusion, a limited edition with a bold, distinctive personality.

The double-face wristwatch that can be worn with either side facing up, is undoubtedly one of the most complicated watches made in the world, with 20 complications and six patented innovations.

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ESSENTIALS

MEDITERRANEAN TALES CEDRO DI TAORMINA Unleashing the energy and feel of the Mediterranean light, in warm and intense shades of yellow, is the Blu Mediterraneo by Acqua Di Parma. The latest addition to their line of fragrances is Cedro di Taormina. Softly brushed by the light of the day, the look of the perfume is reminiscent of a clear sea. Carrying the aroma of earthen roots, the fragrance takes a flight into the crisp sweetness of the air and finally plunges into the sea’s slow moving waters. The rich blue glass of Cedro di Taormina’s elegant bottle creates reflections that call to mind the striking effect of the waves. Playing with elements like earth, fire, water and air, the intense essence of cirton, combined with the strength of volcanic rock, releases a fragrance that blends all elements together.

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PRESERVING THE ESSENCE MR. BURBERRY FRAGRANCE The city of London, a manifested combination of contradictions and contrasts encapsulates itself in Mr. Burberry fragrance, which is traditional yet irreverent, elegant without being pristine. The fragrance, unmistakably, fuses classic scents of British perfumery with unexpected ingredients. Opening with notes of crisp zesty grapefruit, cut with a seductive base of earthy vetiver and smokey gualac wood, the fragrance truly exhibits a fusion of contemporary tastes with a tint of sophistication. Inspired by the black Heritage Trench Coat, the bottle carries its signature design details. Bold and masculine, the weighted cap references horn-look buttons, while a hand-tied knot in English-woven black gabardine sits around the neck, celebrating the innovative fabric invented by Thomas Burberry more than 100 years ago.

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FOR HER

THE JARRAR TOUCH

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THE JARRAR TOUCH With a rich experience spanning 20 years, Jarrar’s fashion sensibilities have been honed at some of the top notch fashion houses of Paris and she brings with her a distinct vision for Lanvin

Rashi Bisaria French Fashion house Lanvin, the oldest fashion house in Paris and a beacon of Parisian luxury has a new name to help it achieve its vision. Bouchra Jarrar has been appointed as the Artistic Director of the Women’s Collection in March this year. Her first collection will be presented in Spring Summer 2017 at the Paris Fashion Week. Lanvin, a symbol of French elegance and style will see the designer helm its women’s creations. Jarrar’s rich experience of more than 20 years was a strong factor in her selection for the role. She is a known name in elite fashion circles, with creation and technique always at the heart of her work. The Cannes-born designer launched her own fashion house in 2010, after having worked with major fashion houses like Jean Paul Gaultier, Balenciaga and Christian Lacroix. Having learnt the art of sewing from her mother, Jarrar’s first encounter with the world of fashion was through a television show on Yves Saint Laurent, which inspired her to take up fashion as a profession. After graduating from the Dupeere school of Applied Arts in Paris, she started to work on Jean Paul Gaultier’s jewellery line in 1994. At the house of Balenciaga in Paris, Jarrar learnt the ropes of running a fashion house,

assimilated the work done in each department and later used that experience in her own house. She has the practical knowledge, the technique and the creativity to give a sense of direction to a fashion house like Lanvin which spawns perfumes, accessories and clothes. At Lanvin, Jarrar replaces Alber Elbaz, the previous artistic director, who oversaw both the men’s and women’s collections. However, Jarrar will only oversee the luxury fashion house’s women’s offerings, contributing her own style sensibilities and attention to detail to Lanvin. Jarrar’s experience has led her to develop a timeless style of her own, which the fashion conscious are finding hard to ignore. She is considered amongst Paris’ rising couture stars and many celebrities swear by her design sense. Hollywood stars like Jennifer Lawrence and Jennifer Aniston have often been spotted wearing a Jarrar outfit. Her label offers a unique vision of welltailored, modern silhouettes, due to which she has carved a niche in the haute couture industry, having become an official member of the Chambre Syndicale de la haute couture in 2013. Jarrar has always been considered a serious name but, lately, the spotlight has been on her. Wholesale orders

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for her designs picked up in 2013 and she is gradually becoming a name to reckon with, her influence extending beyond a small group of the who’s who, her select clientele. Her razor-sharp tailoring has been creating a buzz among masses. Sharp coats, well-cut trousers, signature vests, well-tailored suits are being recognised as a distinct style, something that has not remained unnoticed at Lanvin. “It is a huge honour to continue promoting the Lanvin style, with designs created in the company’s ateliers by teams who possess extraordinary expertise. Joining Lanvin meets a desire to expend my creation to wider fields of expression. It is my intention to bring to Lanvin the harmony and consistency of a fashion designed for women, a fashion of our time”, says Jarrar upon her appointment at Lanvin, which comes as a turning point in her career. Jarrar is slowly making her way up, focusing on quality and bringing about a certain chic to women’s clothing. She seems to be excited about working with the inhouse team at Lanvin, that is providing her the resources to unleash her creativity. She is looking forward to freedom to design both day and evening wear. She has brought the curtains down on her own label so that she can focus entirely on Lanvin.

FOR HER

ELEGANT COUTURE

ELEGANT COUTURE Inspired by watching her mother create designs for herself that pushed the boundaries of a conformist thinking, Kristina Fidelskaya, through her namesake brand creates pieces that exhibit traits of sophistication and elegance

Diksha Vohra

True elegance has manifested itself through different shapes and forms, since time immemorial. However, there are only few people who carry a passion to redefine elegance in their blood, in their own language. Kristina Fidelskaya, Founder and Creative Director of her premium contemporary namesake label, tells her story today, discussing her inspiration and challenges while presenting her favorite creations.

me. She inspired me to be artistic which lead me to use various mediums to express my artistic side - from photography to sketching. I carried the tradition forward in a way by venturing into fashion and starting my own fashion label. I hope to continue this and pass it on to my daughter too, one day. The ride wasn’t easy but wasn’t challenging either. Since I like minimalistic and simplistic designws that happen to perfectly embody both traditional and modern designs, I did not find designing such pieces challenging. I enjoy experimenting the harmony of both along with introducing new colors, textures and fabrics. I know and feel what I need to design, as I design as if I am going to wear the clothes.

My brand Kristina Fidelskaya is a manifestation of my beliefs I see myself as one with the brand. Rest assured that I, as a person, never stand behind anything that I don’t firmly believe in so putting my name as the brand signifies my conviction in my aesthetics. Kristina Fidelskaya is all about shining a light on the femininity and elegance found in every woman. It speaks I believe in taking fashion forward Kristina Fidelskaya to the modern day woman as a brand that Fashion Forward was a particularly she can turn to for glamour and confidence, to be the woman she is and exciting time for me. To be honest, I didn’t place any expectations since will forever be. To me, it means joining the ranks of women who want it was my first catwalk show and I just focused on making sure all went to empower each other in any way possible. I have chosen to use fashion well backstage in regards to the garments, the models and even the as the route for women to feel elegant and feminine yet powerful at the music! I did expect Fashion Forward to be a great platform for me to same time. showcase my collection to fashion enthusiasts and for me to be alongside my fellow fashion designers in Dubai. This year, I am looking forward to Behind the creation of my label lies the hand of my mother. introducing my Ramadan collection at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week My mother was not a fashion designer but she used to paint to express in Doha Qatar, which will feature an elegant twist on Arabic fashion, her creative ideas and she passed the precious gift of creativity down to specifically designed for women of the region.

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THE PRINT DRESS The print dress found in my AW16 collection came from the idea of fashion reflecting art. I actually have that pattern as a painting in my office and I find it incredibly soothing and calming. I decided to take its fluid pattern and to transform it into a fabric for a dress. This piece is the perfect example of fashion mirroring fashion.

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FOR HER

ELEGANT COUTURE

THE SILK LACE DRESS This is the silk lace dress that as a style, is not only a classic staple for every woman’s wardrobe, but is also utterly romantic. The story behind the dress is offering the woman that dress that exudes beauty and a refined glamour.

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The woman I design for… She is a strong, confident woman who maintains her femininity and elegance during her busy, on-the-go schedule. The women from this region are beautiful, have a strong personality and use fashion as a means to express themself, their traditions and their culture. Their fashion choices are bold and daring but stay in line with their values of appearing sophisticated yet stylish. Three reasons why I would choose my dresses over other brands are… Versatility, quality and timelessness. All of my pieces are versatile in the sense that they are fashionably practical for a modern day woman who looks for a perfect day-to-night outfit. I travel to France and Italy, attending exhibitions and visiting factories that only showcase and work with top quality fabrics and materials, to ensure the quality of my pieces. My styles are what I would wear; those look timeless and would be. Kristina Fidelskaya is meant for women who do not need to be defined by a label but instead choose quality and luxury over brand perceptions.

THE SIGNATURE DRESS COAT I love this piece so much that I incorporate it within all my collections while changing the fabric only with a slight change in design. I believe that a structured dress coat is a standout piece that pulls any outfit together and is perfect for the transition from day to night.

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FOR HER

R E F I N E D H O RO LO GY

REFINED HOROLOGY

The Franck Muller 7 Days Power Reserve Skeleton spectacularly employs detailed craftsmanship and pioneering mechanism as it takes form in a new skeleton avatar. Its highly technical mechanical movement, calibre 1740, combines both sound aesthetics and unmatchable precision and is based on the in-house calibre 1700. Featuring a generous power reserve of seven days, the timepiece is designed, manufactured and decorated in house. Powered by two barrels, the watch features two bridges that are meticulously handchamfered. Adorned by 21 jewels and sporting a hand-sewn black alligator strap, the watch is available in two striking variants, in an 18-carat gold or stainless steel version, and is further offered with either a Round or Cintree Curvex casing

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NATURE & MAN

BACCARAT ROUGE 540 An encounter between two symbols of excellence – Maison Baccarat and Maison Francis Kurkdjian – the Baccarat Rouge 540 presents a combined magic of nature and man. The ethereal facets of jasmine and the radiance of saffron carry the ambergris mineral notes and woody tones of freshly cut cedar. Drawing inspiration from the heart of the manufactory, Baccarat Rouge 540 celebrates its 250th anniversary with the launch of this fragrance. The name itself strikes the image of clear crystal mingled with 24-carat gold powder and gradually brought to fusion at 540 degrees, arousing a glowing scarlet appearance. The transparency perfectly contrasts with the density of its unique and exclusive red color.

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OBSESSION

EXPLORING THE DEPTHS OF TIME

BRILLIANCE OF WHITE Lange 1 in White Gold With luminous hands and hour makers, Lange 1 extends its watch family to include an exclusive model in pure white gold. The Argenté-colored dial is crafted to be legible even in the dark, providing information on the precise time and remaining power reserve.

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EXPLORING TIME THE DEPTHS OF

A. Lange & Söhne has long been known for their exquisite craftsmanship, impeccable designs and unparalleled performance. Exploring different technologies to produce some of the finest timepieces, the watchmakers have redefined the essence of exclusivity through decades. Debuting at SIHH 2016, A. Lange & Söhne’s novelties are an epitome of perfection in themselves. Through an essayed photo-shoot, we take a closer look at some of these exquisite timepieces, exploring the depths of time, in Signé style.

Diksha Vohra P H O T O G R A P H E R : V I S H A K VA R D H A N MODEL : DANIEL GIACOMET TI L O C AT I O N C O U R T E S Y : F O U R S E A S O N S D I F C , D U B A I

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OBSESSION

EXPLORING THE DEPTHS OF TIME

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CHRONO-GRAPHICAL MOVE Datograph-Perpetual Tourbillon in platinum Pairing three complications with five distinct supplementary functions, the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon adds an impressive touch to the Saxony line. Despite displaying dense information, the timepiece stands out with a perfectly organized face.

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INSTRUMENTAL PRECISION Richard Lange Jumping Seconds in platinum By pairing the quest for utmost precision with outstanding legibility, the timepiece effectively reinterprets the concept of scientific observation. The balance is constantly maintained by its one-second constant-force escapement. The integrated jumping mechanism makes it possible to display the time in strict one-second intervals.

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OBSESSION

EXPLORING THE DEPTHS OF TIME

BLEND IN TIME Saxonia Moon Phase in Pink Gold Featuring a fascinating combination of two popular complications – a precise moon phase display and the characteristic Lange outside date, the new Saxonia model stands out. Focusing on optimized technology and aesthetic perfection, these two elements dominate the face of the timepiece.

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A NEW LEAP Saxonia Thin in Pink Gold By far the thinnest watch from the renowned Saxon watchmakers, Saxonia Thin embraces stunning looks and expert quality at every angle. Displaying the distinguished characteristics of a Lange watch in svelte proportions, this timepiece features a newly designed dial and a case.

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OBSESSION

EXPLORING THE DEPTHS OF TIME

MAGICAL MOMENTS Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lumen” One of the limited edition pieces, the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “Lumen” is known for its mystically luminous outsize date, reflecting the inherent characteristics of the iconic brand, along with a beautiful moon-phase display. A. Lange & Söhne boutique is located in Dubai Mall

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OBSESSION

BESPOKE DESIGN

BESPOKE DESIGN Signé pores over the work of hospitality interior designer Adam Tihany, the man behind the distinctive identities of some of the world’s most celebrated restaurants and hotels. His latest, the sophisticated interiors of the Four Seasons Hotel at DIFC, speaks of Dubai’s love for all things bespoke

Beverly Pereira

The process of designing a bespoke suit isn’t exactly the same as conceptualising the interiors of a restaurant or hotel. Yet, the acclaimed hospitality designer Adam D. Tihany equates his approach to interior design with that of a custom tailor. In the prologue of his 2014 monograph entitled Tihany: Iconic Hotel and Restaurant Interiors, Tihany writes, “If I do a custom suit for Thomas Keller, it will fit him. And it’s not the same suit that will fit Daniel Boulud or Jean-Georges.” These are the kind of culinary super stars that Tihany has found himself associated with over the years. From creating signature restaurants for celebrity chefs like Jean-Georges Vongerichten to reimagining the interiors of iconic properties across the globe, the American interior design custom-tailors each of his designs to fit the vision of his clients, while staying true to the location. Tihany is widely regarded as an early pioneer in the profession of restaurant design. He had already made headway in the industry long before the world realised the importance of restaurant design as a crucial part of the dining out experience. He completed his apprenticeship in several reputed design firms in Italy after studying at the Politecnico di Milano. He established

his own multidisciplinary studio in New York as early as 1978, and his practice’s first creation was New York City’s first grand café, La Coupole, in 1981. By 1987, he became a coowner in Remi restaurants, which, along with his partners, he continued to own and operate for the following 25 years.

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Today, of course, the multidisciplinary New York-based Tihany Design with an office in Rome as well, has an endless list of distinctive projects to its credit. The studio perpetuates the philosophy that every project should be a living, relevant, and unique entity. Each project that Tihany works on is

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OBSESSION

BESPOKE DESIGN

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nothing close to the next. It’s hard to miss the designer’s majestic interiors of the Mandarin Oriental Las Vegas, the luxurious confines of the Beverly Hills Hotel in Beverly Hills, or the invigorating design that beautifully interprets British colonial style at the One&Only Ocean Club in the Bahamas. Still others like the Westin Chosun in Seoul, The Joule in Dallas, and the Belmond Hotel Cipriani in Venice speak of Tihany’s keen eye and design sensibility to incorporate groundbreaking innovation, sophistication and luxury. Closer to home, Tihany lent his aesthetic vision to the newly opened Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre. A far cry from the city’s flashy, garish meeting places of the past, the hotel’s design represents the changes in interior language taking place in Dubai. Tihany’s vision for the 106-room hotel was that of an intimately sized contemporary urban oasis. Which is why his design incorporates spaces that fluidly flow into the next. Focusing on efficiency and functionality, its refined and elegant design caters to the needs of the discerning leisure

and business traveller. Hand-tufted custom carpeting, faceted metal pendants, rich woodclad walls, and furnishings and fittings with curved edges add a welcoming environment to the rooms. Its suites, featuring a custom metal mashrabia that frames the windows, are decadent spaces in themselves. From the elegant reception to the sophisticated Tea Lounge that features a custom geometric chandelier, right up to the soothing décor of the spa, Tihany’s designs display impeccable craftsmanship, bespoke finishes and attention to detail. For the Firebird Diner by Michael Mina he even reimagined the glamour of the 1950s complete with stylised art pieces that display the retro Cadillac designed by New York artist Bram Tihany, who happens to be the designer’s son. Inarguably, though, it’s the design of the Luna Sky Bar and Churchill Cigar Club that really resonates with the city’s residents and visitors who might want to indulge in its curated collection of fine cigars or spirits. Evoking the symbolism of the falcon, a national emblem of luxury and

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bravery, the space is dominated by strong black and gold hues, while the ceiling light fixtures and bar back mimic birdlike features. With the immense planning and conceptualisation that goes into some of the world’s most widely recognised restaurants and hotels, it appears that Tihany’s plate is full. However, the designer bides his time well. He has published several books on his work. His latest, Tihany: Iconic Hotel and Restaurant Interiors, was published by Rizzoli in the spring of 2014. It is intriguing that he has lent his expertise to a good number of notable companies, such as his latest collaboration with Poltrona Frau. The Stanley chair was custom designed by Tihany for a private home theater in a modern luxury residence in Dubai. Named after Tihany’s favorite film director Stanley Kubrick, the Stanley takes inspiration from the interiors of the famous G-5 Gulfstream private jet, where sophisticated elegance meets high functionality and incomparable comfort. One might imagine that the globetrotting Tihany lives out of a suitcase, what with his famed presence in every corner of the world. Yet, the hospitality designer finds time to frequently lecture at universities and conferences. As a leading expert in his field, he made a fine fit for the position of Art Director of the Culinary Institute of America in 2011. At present, he sits on Pratt Institute’s Board of Trustees. Naturally, his unmatchable contribution to the world of design continues to be recognised. Tihany has been awarded with numerous honours over the years, including an Honorary Doctorate from the New York School of Interior Design. He was also inducted into the Interior Design Hall of Fame in 1991. Just when you thought that Tihany’s creative urge knows no bounds, you should know that at present, while he dreams up extraordinary designs for the hospitality world, the designer also has his sight trained on the seas. His visionary design concepts will soon find a home in the next wave of Holland America and Seabourn vessels between 2016 and 2018. Holland America’s Ms Koningsdam just launched this month and the second ship in its Pinnacle class is due in 2018. As they say — creativity is the new efficiency, and Tihany is a flawless master in this regard.

OBSESSION

E X C E L L E N C E T H AT I N S P I R E S

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EXCELLENCE THAT INSPIRES Thousands of hours of work, several international patents and copyrights, 2,675 premium components and the introduction of state-of-the-art machinery make the Emperador the most celebrated cigar chest in the world

Niyoshi Chudgar A cigar is not only a cigar. It represents the finer things in life - success, opulence, perseverance and prosperity. No true aficionado can undermine the brilliance of the magnificent Imperiali Genève Emperador, a cigar chest that combines elaborate flair with superior technology to give each cigar its fitting respect. Imperiali Genève is a company constantly recreating superlative products by transcending the boundaries of reason. The brand is driven by a love of splendor and an aspiration to innovate by trouncing the cryptic laws of physics. The precise convolution of their creations – which are entirely handcrafted in Switzerland – is only matched by the measure of attention paid to every element. Born in Geneva in 1979, David Pasciuto, the founder of Imperiali Genève, is earnestly committed to hard work and technological innovation. A graduate from the Haute Ecole de Gestion (HEG) in the district of Geneva, he went on to obtain a degree in Business Economics. Taking pride in his Italian roots, Pasciuto imbibes traditional values and principles so rarely seen today, along with a strong resolve and an insatiable desire for success. The enterprising Pasciuto stood out from his colleagues during the two year period he spent at Publigroup as a technical salesman, winning tremendous adulation and the title of the “Best Salesperson” in French-speaking Switzerland. He went on to work as a Corporate Manager in a family owned enterprise. He worked there for six years before committing himself to his own entrepreneurial projects. With an obsession for technology, cinema and culturally immersive travel, David Pasciuto is an adventurer who loves challenging conventional boundaries. Approximately three years ago, friends and partners David Pasciuto and Stephane Nazzal, inspired by a conversation with a fellow cigar lover, conceived the idea of creating the ultimate cigar chest. Deciding that a regular cigar box would not do justice to their own creation, they set out to make the most prestigious cigar chest in the world.

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OBSESSION

E X C E L L E N C E T H AT I N S P I R E S

The exquisite Emperador is the latest product of Pascuito’s brilliant imagination. Produced in Switzerland, using only the finest materials, it measures 70 cm long, 45 cm wide and 30 cm high. Taking expert artisans a record number of 18,000 hours of labor, the Emperador makes for an elaborate humidor for your finest Cuban smokes. Featuring 2,675 components, it includes a complicated mechanism that securely safeguards your prized collection and comes with a power reserve of 80 hours. It is protected with a password and a series of planetary components, which revolve around a tourbillon timepiece that triggers a mechanism that opens up the chest. The centerpiece, featuring 323 components made in the Swiss Jura, is scrupulously adorned with Clous de Paris guilloche. Opening the crest will expose twelve 24k gold plated cigars arranged in singular glass tubes, a further twelve are placed beneath the top row. The Emperador cigars replicate the sumptuousness, density and equilibrium of the best cigars in the world. Several combinations of tobacco cautiously chosen by the blender were required to achieve the suitable alliance. The fertile soils of the Jamastran Valley and the Jalapa Valley are chosen for the Imperiali plantations. The box effectively blends the traditional art of Swiss watch making with the refined skills of experts from 27 different trades. It’s meant to be appreciated by every sense and the Emperador doesn’t fail to achieve this ambitious goal. The box sports three accessories which are significant for yielding the best cigar experience – namely a cigar cutter, a table lighter and an ashtray. Usually, you just have these placed on your table separately seated in a cluttered manner. The engineers worked meticulously to make these accessories fit inside the chest to enable long-lasting fluidity.

The most industrial of the accessories is the cigar cutter which slices either by a guillotine mechanism or by perforation like a cigar punch. The table lighter and its three nozzles offer a perfect flame when the cigar is brought close to it. These complex mechanics require six coordinated movements to function effectively. The ashtray is another clever device; it only opens when it detects the cigar nearing its mouth. It is efficiently motorized and lit by LEDs just in case you decide to light up a cigar under dim lights. As expected, its movements are remarkable and exceedingly precise. Perhaps what makes it even more fascinating is its extraordinary movement, which taps the power from all of its moving parts, which is further regulated by an electronic arrangement so as to ensure that the tourbillion does not catch fire. Its technical computation surpasses modern-day innovations to a remarkable degree – harmonizing each functional movement with the assistance of microchips responsible for automating the cigar chest’s complicated mechanisms. This cigar box manages itself effectively almost without any human involvement. It features the world’s first self- regulating humidity system. It ensures a consistent humidity level of 70% and a temperature of 16 to 18 degrees Celsius, regardless of external environmental conditions. Apart from the excellent temperature control mechanism it also processes information about the number of cigars left, after all, this is a cigar chest topped with an implausible timepiece for an unmatched cigar experience. Accessible to a fortunate few, only a limited number of pieces will be created every year. The Emperador, an epitome of exclusivity, is available in a limited run of 12 numbered units per year for one million Swiss francs (US$1,048,000).

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ART & DESIGN

ARTISTIC IMPRESSION

ARTISTIC IMPRESSION After pioneering the field of luxury car making, Rolls-Royce enters the realm of creativity and art through a dedicated Art Programme. The brand has liaised with Mohammed Kazem to create a commissioned sculpture for the same

Diksha Vohra Producers of some of the most ultra-luxurious cars, Rolls-Royce has been pushing the boundaries of creativity time and again. From incorporating creative elements into cars, Rolls-Royce takes a step forward by formally migrating into the Art industry by launching its Rolls-Royce Art Programme. Celebrated Emirati artist Mohammed Kazem has been selected to create a sculpture as a part of the program, which will be revealed alongside a Bespoke car that has been inspired by the sculpture, towards the end of the year. Rolls-Royce Art Programme aims towards fostering creativity and enabling artists to create new projects, while exploring different avenues to practice their skills. Welcoming Mohammed Kazem on board for the program, the marque will support him in producing a metal-based sculptural work for the first time. A native of the region, Mohammed Kazem has developed a distinct style of art that encompasses conventional techniques to comprehend new ways of appreciating and portraying the environment around him and his experiences. Fascinated by processes that can render transient phenomena, Kazem chooses to play a lot with sound and light, the influence of which is evident in his works. He responds to geographical location, materiality and the elements as a means to assert his subjectivity, particularly

in relation to the rapid pace of modernisation in the Emirates since the country’s founding. Holding a Masters degree in Fine Art at the University of the Arts, Philadelphia, Kazem was also a member of the Emirates Fine Arts Society and also of ‘Five’, an informal group of Emirati artists. Amongst many of his phenomenal creations, his work at the 2013 Venice Biennale is worth a mention where the artist presented an immersive video and GPS installation of his series Directions, in which the viewer stood at the center of a room surrounded by a moving projection of the sea. Joining other artists from world over, Kazem becomes the first Emirati artist to be featured in the Rolls-Royce Art Programme. Towards the end of 2016, the world is expected to witness the impressions of Kazem’s inherent interest in using latitude and longitude coordinates in both the sculpture and the car. His fascination with collecting and documenting information about seemingly unimportant objects, by photographing them and mapping their coordinates, will be demonstrated in both works. In his practice, he uses GPS as a tool for drawing shapes and recording an item’s location. Working on the unique design project, Kazem visited West Sussex, England, which is the Home of Rolls-Royce. There he mapped out the localities of the craftsmen who have worked on the car in order to use them as data

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points as a recurring motif in both designs. The metal sculpture will, hence, comprise a stack of these data points melted together to form an abstract shape. Displaying an explicit connection, the roof lining of the sculpture inspired car will include a bespoke starlight headliner containing the same coordinates as the sculpture. Looking forward to witness the exceptional, one-of-a-kind creation, Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Chief Executive Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars comments, “The creation of a Bespoke Rolls-Royce Wraith by artist Mohammed Kazem marks an exciting moment for our marque. To witness an artist’s interpretation of the Bespoke capabilities and creative freedom afforded to our customers will no doubt provide an inspiring interpretation of true luxury”. Where everyone’s eyes are gearing up for the launch of the motor-car and the sculpture, Kazem express his pride in being involved with a historic and an iconic brand as RollsRoyce and being able to contribute to their Art Program. He claims, “As an artist, a big part of my work is finding the right inspiration that can develop into an artistic expression.” Known for taking creativity to unimaginable heights, the world now awaits the creation of two truly remarkable and a memorable pieces of art resulting from this alliance.

“As an artist, a big part of my work is finding the right inspiration that can develop into an artistic expression.” MOHAMMED KAZEM

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H E R I TA G E

FA B R I C O F N O B I L I T Y

FABRIC OF NOBILITY The artisanal approach to Ermenegildo Zegna menswear begins with the selection of rare and precious fibres from far-off lands like Australia and South Africa. The Italian luxury house goes to great lengths to select and produce fabrics, supporting textile evolution through innovation

Beverly Pereira A good number of traits distinguish luxury fashion houses from mass producers of fashion. Aside from the fact that luxury brands are associated with both exclusive and luxurious offerings, they spare no effort or expense when it comes to crafting their products. In fact, the practice of ethical sourcing and production is the single most defining factor in the world of luxury, now more than ever. Ermenegildo Zegna, the last word in high-end menswear and accessories, is among the leading names in this legion of luxury businesses that subscribes to the sustainable and ethical school of thought. The Italian fashion house had its beginnings in 1910 as the Lanificio Zegna wool mill in Trivero. Even today, as Lanificio Zegna continues to operate out of the same Trivero mill located 700 metres above sea level in the mountainous region that surrounds the city of Biella, Zegna Fabrics remains one of Italy’s most renowned exports. The Zegna group, still a family-owned enterprise, has stayed true to the vision of its founder, Ermenegildo Zegna. Which explains why the company unwaveringly strives for the ethical production of the most exclusive fabrics through innovation, and the sourcing of the best quality natural fibres directly from their markets of origin. Whether it concerns the selection of mohair fibre, the finest woollen fibres from the prized Australian Merino sheep, or even the rarest fibres produced by the vicuna, Zegna leads the pack in the luxury fabric market and is noted for being an important buyer of some of the world’s most precious fibres. To put this into perspective, Zegna is the world’s biggest purchaser of kid mohair. The fashion house uses this luxurious fibre, characterised by its shine, pleasing handle, smoothness, elasticity, comfort, strength, and resiliency that makes it the most crease-proof natural fibre, in both knitted and woven fabric production. The fibre, acknowledged as one of the most ancient fibres known to man, is produced by the Angora goat, whose name is derived from the Turkish capital of Ankara where it has been bred for over two millennia. While determining the value of mohair fibres, qualities such as fineness, lustre, uniformity, contamination, length, style and character are of utmost importance. However, over time, South Africa emerged, and continues to reign, as the long-time leader — both in terms of quantity and quality — in the global production of this fibre.

South African mohair comes with the guarantee of outstanding lustre, cleanness, uniformity and the absence of impurities. Finer fabrics are made of kid mohair, or the fibre from the animal’s first clip that’s executed in the first six months. Some of Zegna’s finest batches with smooth, shiny transparent white fibres between 27 and 30 microns weighing barely a kilogram come out of this process. The thing about mohair is that while it ranks high as a beautiful raw material, it is also a very natural and renewable resource that provides a sustainable production chain between animal and human. The Angora goat is single coated with fibres that grow continuously throughout the year. Simply put, the act of harnessing these precious fibres that will be woven into an elegant Zegna fabric and then stitched into, say, a Zegna coat or jacket, results in a positive contribution to the long-term prosperity of many regions in South Africa. The Zegna Group and Mohair SA have been encouraging and supporting the contribution of the South African mohair industry since 1970 with launch of the first edition of the Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy. The benefits of this annual competition that selects and awards the finest quality of this fibre are manifold. Not only does Zegna reaffirm the importance of this superior quality raw material by purchasing the top three winning bales, but it also demonstrates its support for the noble South African raw material. This, in turn, encourages producers to deliver the highest standards of kid mohair fibres while adopting the most sustainable growing processes. Another raw material extensively used by Zegna is Australia’s fine and super-fine wool produced by the country’s prized Merino sheep. The storied Italian luxury house’s relationship with this fundamental raw material goes back to more than a century ago, when its founder recognised the unique characteristics of pure, high-quality wool. He would go on to cultivate the expertise required to master the craft of turning raw wool fibres into flawless, fine and superfine wool fabrics. Even today, the artisanal process of turning wool into yarn, yarn into fabric, and fabric into exquisite Zegna couture remains largely unaltered. In the case of Merino wool, Zegna manages the entire process by first sourcing the wool fibres, which guarantees an unparalleled level of quality. Among the list of parameters for classifying wools, the

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H E R I TA G E

FA B R I C O F N O B I L I T Y

The act of harnessing these precious fibres that will be woven into an elegant Zegna fabric... result in a positive contribution to the long-term prosperity of many regions in South Africa. fineness of the fibre is an indisputably, key distinguisher. The most prestigious wool, superfine, comes with a fineness of 19.5 micron, or several thousandths of a millimetre. Every year, Lanificio Zegna handpicks and buys the best batches of this prized raw material through a series of auctions in Australia. The endless list of rigorous requirements includes fineness, quality and staple strength, achieved by the painstaking process of touching, evaluating and testing each bale. It’s no wonder then that the luxury house remains a benchmark in the marketplace, and that auction catalogues have been known to describe some wool lots as ‘Zegna Quality’. Furthermore, just like Zegna rewards and supports the efforts of South Africa’s mohair industry, it has also been awarding the Australian woolgrowers’ commitment to quality since 1963. The coveted Ermenegildo Zegna Extrafine Wool Trophy is an annual effort by the Italian luxury group to evolve the fineness and excellence of this multifaceted natural fibre. Even after the raw material has been handpicked, the absolute control of each process continues right up to the delivery of the Zegna fabric to Zegna’s master tailors. All fabric manufacturing at Lanificio Zegna is done in an artisanal and industrial manner that takes into account the unique peculiarities of each fabric. A single fabric may even undergo 20-30 phases before it reaches the finishing stage. Fabric production at the Trivero mill starts with the washing and combing of each bale of raw wool, and proceeds to the dyeing process, the spinning and coning of woollen fibres, the warping process of wool into cloth, and the weaving of fabrics. Zegna’s fabric production process even extends to strict quality control of each fabric, and finishing stages that naturally enhance the characteristics of the fabric. Intriguingly, the last stage includes the process of teaseling, which uses a natural dried Teasel — a flowering plant known for its prickly stems and leaves — to groom the cloth and gently raise the precious fibres to create a soft and smooth handle. It is a process that has been used for centuries to date. Four generations down the line, the Zegna family continues to lead the success in the world’s finest fabrics through innovations and modern technology that back up artisan craftsmanship. It is this scrupulous balance of science with nature and craftsmanship with technology that has driven Lanificio Zegna to pioneer sophisticated men’s fabrics to become softer, lighter, more refined and with an improved performance and functionality. Distributed across the world, Ermenegildo Zegna fabrics are marked with a red seal as a guarantee of exclusivity, luxury and style. In February this year, at the 45th Anniversary celebrations of the Ermenegildo Zegna Mohair Trophy in Johannesburg, 15 numbered suits featuring the exclusive Mohair Trophy Selection from the winning South African mohair bales of the 2015 trophy were unveiled. The limited-edition superfine 100% mohair fabric was a reminder of just how resolute Zegna is when it comes to interpreting noble fibres by enhancing their natural characteristics and versatility. It also bore testimony to Zegna’s exacting production methods.

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H E R I TA G E

FA B R I C O F N O B I L I T Y

Ermenegildo Zegna has actively promoted improvements in wool production around the world since 1910. Signé traces the Italian luxury fashion house’s connection with this fabric across the last 100 years

1910 Ermenegildo Zegna, aged 18, took over his father’s mill and looms, establishing the eponymous company in Trivero (Piedmont) in Italy. Although the company name was changed to Fratelli Zegna di Angelo in 1915, Zegna continued to be run as a family-owned business and fast gained a reputation for producing fine quality woolen fabrics for suits.

1963 Zegna established the first Ermenegildo Zegna Extrafine Wool Trophy award in association with the Australian Superfine Wool Growers Association. The annual award rewards the Australian woolgrowers’ commitment to quality, and awards its Wool Trophy to those woolgrowers who consistently produce the highest quality superfine wool of 18.5 micros and finer. The trophy’s design —a vertical form in cast and beaten silver, rising from a rugged plinth of natural wood — symbolises the origin and growth of the Australian wool industry.

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1966 After Ermenegildo Zegna passed in 1966, his sons Aldo and Angelo took over the business and went on to launch several new lines. Two years later, they launched a line of ready-to-wear men’s suits that was followed by knitwear, casual and accessories lines.

1986 Ermenegildo Zegna launched the Inner Mongolia Cashmere fabric that is transformed into superior quality worsted or woolen fabrics. A trophy that awards the best cashmere growers was hosted in Inner Mongolia in 1985 and 1986, but was subsequently suspended due to the political development of the Chinese government. Yet, relationships with the best Mongolian cashmere growers continue to remain just as close.

1988 Ermenegildo Zegna creates a series of historical costumes to remember the arrival of Captain Macarthur, and the early colonisation and establishment of the woolgrowing industry. The event that celebrated the Australian bicentenary featured costumes made from Australian Merino wool produced by the direct descendants of the original 30 Merino sheep.

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FA B R I C O F N O B I L I T Y

2002 The first Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum International Trophy (Golden Fleece) was launched to celebrate the advances by Australian woolgrowers for wool of 13.9 micron and finer.

2003 The Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum International Trophy becomes a global award in a bid to recognise the quest for excellence in the world’s four major fine wool-producing countries — Australia, New Zealand, Argentina and South Africa. This year also marked the finest and best fleece that was awarded to Barry & Helen Finch of Legend Farm, NSW, for a fleece of 11.7 microns.

2010 Ermenegildo Zegna celebrated 100 years of excellence in 2010. That year, woolgrowers Ed and Jill Hundy set a new world record in the fineness of wool fleece thanks to the supremely soft ultrafine 10.0 micron fleece, which won them the Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum International Trophy.

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2013 In 2013, to honor the 50th Anniversary of the “Ermenegildo Zegna Extrafine Wool Trophy”, the Zegna Group hosted a two-day celebration in Sydney that included a multi-sensorial event and a special fashion show in the presence of celebrities, socialites and international press. For the occasion, Zegna unveiled an exclusive new fabric, “Trofeo Natural Comfort” in pied-de-poule pattern, which was inspired by the styles produces by Lanificio in the 1960s made from the winning wools from the first Wool Trophies.

2014 To strengthen the bond with Merino wool and reach higher standards in its production, in 2014 the Group acquired the majority of the Achill wool farm, an Australian property located in the New South Wales region, where Merino sheep are bred. The purchase represents a decisive step for the company, as Zegna has now taken direct responsibility for the production phase of one of its primary raw materials thereby reconfirming its longstanding support of the wool industry and completing its verticalization strategy.

2016 Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates the 53rd edition of its Wool Awards and the 1st and 2nd ranked fleeces in the Vellus Aureum Trophy, with respectively 9.9 and 9.8 micron, overtake the previous world record of fineness.

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ACCOMPLISHING A MILESTONE

The most illustrious invention of the Le Coultre Empire – Reverso has enjoyed an undisputed iconic status amongst watch collectors’ world over. To celebrate its 85th anniversary, the brand has joined forces for a creative collaboration with shoe maestro Christian Louboutin incorporating his signature aesthetics to release a line of brilliant, resilient and super-stylish timepieces

For over 180 years, luxury watch brand Jaeger LeCoultre has successfully innovated and made technological breakthroughs in watch-making and has become synonymous with excellence, innovation and precision. To commemorate the 85th anniversary of their most notable timepiece, they have revisited their classic Reverso with updated models, for men and women along with a strategic union with footwear maestro Christian Louboutin to launch a special collection of Reverso models. He has infused timeless design and tactical innovation to create a collection that’s as much a fashion statement as it is state-of-the-art technology. The color mastermind has adopted a stylish palette of blue, violet and green for the watch’s evening strap. Available in two sizes with a shimmering decorative face, the result is an original, ultra-feminine take on the iconic timepiece honoring its 85 years of existence in style. The pioneering of the legendary Reverso collection started during the winter of 1930. While travelling in India, a Swiss businessman and watch enthusiast César de Trey attended a polo match at a club of the British army commandment. One of the officers challenged de Trey to design a watch model sturdy enough to resist a precarious polo match. César de Trey discussed this inspiration with the owner of the LeCoultre manufacturing, Jacques-David LeCoultre, who could provide the movements for the new watch. LeCoultre appointed the firm Jaeger S.A. for the creation of a unique design using a reversible container to protect the dial, which in turn contracted the French designer René-Alfred Shavuot, the actual inventor of the exceptional slide and flip mechanism. He used a simple device of two spring-mounted spurs fitting into grooves on either side of the watch’s frame. The result was a classic timepiece with a dial that could turn over, shielding it from obstruction while offering a case back with a significant panel that could be used for designing. A brilliant principle providing an inexhaustibly fertile source of design inspiration which now, 85 years, later still enjoys illustrious success.

Born out of the sheer need to provide an elegant, sophisticated and robust response to a technical challenge, the Reverso established itself as an eminent Art Deco classic constantly stimulating artists, designers and inventors to reinterpret the back of the watch. The watch personifies the quest for the unexpected. The impact of its pure, almost discreet lines makes the Reverso timepieces the embodiment of elegance and class. With unique modifications, it has been a vehicle for high complications, dual time zone watches to some of the most skillfully carved watches ever made. The oldest known enameled Reverso illustrates a beautiful Indian woman dressed in a Parsi manner, a community located mainly in the Mumbai region of India. Details regarding the love story behind this gorgeously enameled timepiece continue to be a secret, but what remains is the love affair between the Reverso’s case back and the personally enameled artworks. The Reverso Lady, launched later retained all the features of the original model while combining a chrome steel band with the soft warmth of 18 carat rose gold. The amalgamation of tradition with a modern spirit is sure to appeal to most feminine of women. Another variation launched that year offers a sleek black lacquered dial, stamped with gilt numerals and an 18 carat yellow gold dial, and additional versions with red and blue lacquered solid silver dial bearing the Reverso signature. The Reverso Cordonnet designed in a contrasting combination of cool steel shimmer and warm gold radiance boasts resolute feminine spirit with a gracefully slim case and strikingly offbeat strap. They launched another heritage version in 1948 with blue steel hands and lacquered engravings depicting the emblem of the Basel divisions of the Aero-Club de Suisse, the Swiss aviation association. In 1985, they presented the first-ever water-resistant Reverso case. This required a complete transformation to offer exceptional comfort and guarantee total security in pivoting. In 1994, they introduced the Duo

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Calendar

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face concept with the back of the watch featuring a second dial although driven by a single movement. For the brands 70th birthday in 2001, the Reverso acquired an 8-day double barrel, giving it enhanced accuracy offered by teaming a highfrequency balance wheel with over a week’s running power. 500 examples were made. To celebrate its 80th birthday, they came out with a fresh take on the absolute classicism of its Art Deco lines, with the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin including two Tribute to 1931 models in honour of the very first Reverso models. The collection launched at SIHH this year, flawlessly exceeds expectations in design excellence, elegance and technical supremacy – Reverso Classic, Reverso Tribute and Reverso One. The Reverso Classic comes in a stainless steel case with a sleek, silver toned surface dial, transferred black numerals, around a guilloché center with a black transferred minute track, along with blued baton hour and minute hands. Its Art Deco inspiration, geometrical case, Arabic numerals, along with its minute track, exudes a touch of brilliance. The Reverso Tribute is intended for luxury connoisseurs with an eye for horological craftsmanship and design. It comes with a slightly grained front dial, with blue hour markers, hands, and a blue-printed subdial, and Dauphine-type hands. Driven by mechanical movements, all the Reverso Tribute models feature the Duo concept of two independent faces complete with a day/night indicator.

Quintessentially feminine, the Reverso One collection is dedicated to the ladies, characterized by an elongated rectangular shape and mother-ofpearl lunar disc representing the moon phase and typical Dauphine-type hour and minute hands. They have also created a personalized service – Atelier Reverso that allows customers to select aesthetic features to personalize their timepiece using an online configurator currently available in JaegerLeCoultre boutiques The collaboration with celebrity design ingénue – Christian Louboutin celebrates the landmark event with extreme style. The French designer’s stylish stilettos adorned with his trademark redlacquered soles are coveted by fashionista’s and shoe aficionados globally and the collaboration makes for the perfect union of luxury, style and elegance. As the Reverso is a fresh slate ready for customization, it didn’t take Louboutin long to identify the playful accents that could illustrate a design reflecting his personality – including one with telltale red leather inside the strap. Iridescent colors and striking textures highlight the straps and dials of the Louboutin edition, which contrasts perfectly with the Art Deco lines inherent in the Reverso collection. It features rounded, sensual elements, as well as details rooted in texture — a circle of pavé diamonds on a rose-enamel dial, rosegold chains, looping to form tiny circles that edged a white-leather watchband. The Louboutin Reversos are available in small and medium sizes of the Reverso Classic Duetto.

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L A D O L C E V I TA

R E S I D I N G I N PA R A D I S E

RESIDING IN PARADISE Culture, creature comforts and new heights of luxury meet on the hidden gem of Eden Island, deep in the heart of Seychelles, which you can now enjoy endlessly by owning a part of it

Niyoshi Chudgar The tropical, dreamlike setting of the Seychelles may play a starring role on the bucket lists of newlyweds, adrenaline junkies and the international jet set alike, but it’s time to meet its more mysterious and eclectic protégé – Eden Island. On offer at this uber-luxe residential marina development is a selection of spectacular homes complemented by four private beaches and dedicated yacht facilities as well as a gym, clubhouse, supermarket, hotel and tennis courts, all within close proximity to the neighbouring gems of this unique archipelago. With close to 570 picturesque abodes and a few still out in the market, these exclusive properties are well-appointed and flawlessly maintained, making them invaluable assets for real estate investors and an excellent option for holidaymakers seeking a taste of the high life.

It may not be well known, but there are still some corners of the majestic Indian Ocean untouched by the jet set, where the vibe is laidback and the culture remains authentic and unspoilt. Eden Island is located just 200 metres from the island of Mahé, and a perfect amalgamation of modern-day creature comforts intermixed with the rich heritage of the Seychelles. It was built on a reclaimed island on a coral reef that was completely destroyed by El niño effect in 1998; consequently, the explicit environmental impact of this ambitious project is immeasurable. With its majestic seascapes and temperate weather, few places evoke the mythic legacy of the Indian Ocean as this island nation. Here, tangles of bougainvillaea cascade over immaculate white sand and cliffs rear up over indigo waves as gracefully as the harmony with which

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a vibrant array of diverse cultures coexists. It also caters to discerning thrill-seekers in search of exhilarating diving and sailing opportunities. Situated only five minutes away from Mahé international airport, the nearby islands can easily be reached within a few minutes by plane or ferry. Scenic islands like Praslin and La Digue, which are just a ferry ride away, make for idyllic weekend retreats. A distinctive aspect of the properties on Eden Island is that they can be fully furnished to accommodate the owner’s taste and preferences - making it an ideal investment for globetrotters. They each come replete with a private jetty, many of which are located directly in front of the houses offering ease of travel and luxurious comfort. Another unique advantage is that even superyacht owners can find embankment space for their vessels in the marina that is situated on the island.

With an average compounded growth in prices of over eight percent per annum and the possibility to rent out your property through the rental pool management, Eden Island proves to be one of the ultimate investment opportunities for affluent tourists. The idyllic island claims a top spot amongst demanding holidaymakers due to its first-rate urban infrastructure that is explicitly designed to provide space, while maintaining privacy for all of its residents. From super-sleek waterfront apartments to doublestorey maisons and plush villas, the sense of luxury and well being here is unmatched – the glorious ocean view is just the proverbial cherry on top. The most notable elements of the picturesque island homes are the natural wood features, the deep shuttered verandas, the pitch of the rust red corrugated iron roofs, and the pastel-hued walls. – elements

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of which can be customised as per the resident’s individual taste and preference. These elements are founded upon the French, Arabic and African heritage of the Seychelles, conveying a sense of history and deep rooted traditions in the trade winds of the Indian Ocean. Talking about the luxury facilities and innovative interior design, celebrated Interior Design architect Evon Smuts, Operations Director of Source Interior Brand Architects, says: “The interior architecture imbibes a sense of tradition and offers a relaxed tropical lifestyle. Spaces are generously defined by framed views, abundant natural light, and easy flow onto the shaded verandas.” Keeping the gentle sea breeze in mind, kitchens are open with full-width sliding doors. While air conditioning is in place, high ceilings and fans offer a more natural way of enjoying the tropics. Four different colour schemes for fabrics and artwork are offered – Forest, Aqua, Driftwood and

Sunset – while furnishings are available in the traditional plantation style. Source Interior Brand Architects has used three unique mood board palettes using stone textures to suit a specific design aesthetic. Smuts elaborates by adding: “Each palette is based on the natural beauty of the island – Sand and Pearl are based on the white sands of the Seychelles, Shell and Coral are devoted to the warm hues of the shells and the sunset, while the handsome Rock and Granite palettes are a tribute to the granite cliffs of Mahé.” The Seychelles’ customary design artistry is integrated into the island’s design concept through traditional verandas, trelliswork, natural wood, internal washstands, louvered wardrobes and natural stone kitchen tops. The Seychelles may have gained fame as a tropical idyll for the rich and famous. However, we celebrate the simpler side of Eden Island, where nature and luxury – equally – reign supreme.

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A DRIVE BEYOND CARS

A DRIVE BEYOND CARS Mercedes-Benz has long been known for producing the finest and most competitive luxury cars. This time, the brand takes exclusivity and creativity beyond the boundaries of land. With the recently launched Mercedes-Benz S-Class Cabriolet and the motor yacht - Arrow460-Granturismo, designed by Mercedes-Benz Style, in addition to the previously launched EC145 Mercedes-Benz Style by Airbus Helicopters, the Mercedes star seems to carve a niche for itself through all modes of transportation. We take a closer look at how the marque leaves its mark by introducing comfort luxury mobility on land, water and air

Diksha Vohra

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A DRIVE BEYOND CARS

LAND The sixth variant in the current S-Class family of Mercedes-Benz, the Cabriolet adds another jewel to the crown of Mercedes-Benz. Offering distinct and sensual designs, the Cabriolet is also the first open-top luxury four-seater from Mercedes-Benz since 1971. Taking a closer look at the Cabriolet, the clear designs and luscious interiors are mesmerizing at first glance. The most striking aspect of the Cabriolet is the soft top giving the car the feel of a yacht, which can either be opened using the switch in the center console or with the electronic key. To enable the broadest scope for individualization, there is a choice of leather handcrafted in character. The materials ooze a sense of comfort and magnanimity, revealing the exclusive and sharp tastes of the makers and the buyers. In terms of the aerodynamics, like its sister model – S-Class Coupé, this automobile has the quietest interior of all. While experiencing fast wind blows, the Cabriolet’s AIRCAP automatic wind protection system reduces the turbulence caused by at the touch of a button. Another interesting aspect of the automotive is the Climate Control System, which is fully automatic. Additionally, for those who love driving in low outside temperatures, the AIRSCARF neck-level heating system comes as a blessing as it circulates warm air around the head and the neck areas of the occupants. Considering safety as key component throughout their designing process, the automobile is fitted with an Intelligent Drive system, which includes a Pre-Safe brake with pedestrian detection, similar to the S-Class Saloon and the Coupé. Also, preventing the probabilities of collision, the Collision Preventing Assist Plus enables the car to automatically brake up to a speed limit of 100km/h. This also helps in reducing the severity of collisions with slower or stopping vehicles.

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A DRIVE BEYOND CARS

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WATER Extending its arm into the marine world, Mercedes-Benz Style designs the luxury motor yacht ‘Arrow460-Granturismo’, allowing their discerning clients to now sail in luxury as well. The first example of this new yacht model is named ‘Mercedes’, which remains true to the tradition of the name, as it embodies a completely new boat concept. Creating a crossover between an open boat and a cabin cruiser, the yacht undoubtedly marks a new era in marine transportation. Interestingly, the yacht features classic automobile proportions that bring the hallmark Mercedes design philosophy of sensual purity onto the water in a highly emotional and dynamic form. The luxury motor yacht, 14-metre long and 706kw (960 hp), can accommodate up to 10 people at a time. With retractable side windows and a windscreen that can be raised when desired, passengers can comfortably sit in the interiors while enjoying an all-round view and the feeling of sitting in the open. The tables and beds are also extendable, and thus available when required. In addition to these, the yacht also includes a fully equipped spacious bathroom unit and a separate dressing room. Further featuring a superior air conditioning system, a high-quality audio system, a wine cellar and an ice-making machine, the luxuriously furnished yacht includes every feature one might have envisaged. From a design perspective, clear contours and smooth surfaces are visible. Accentuating the sensual purity of the design, the elegance and muscular hull adds dynamism to the mode. The overall composition is accentuated by elegantly styled yet functional details. Great attention has been paid to the handrails, for example, which are perfectly integrated into the roofline.

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A DRIVE BEYOND CARS

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AIR The third star on this three-star innovation constellation is the luxury helicopter “H145 Mercedes-Benz Style” by Airbus Helicopters. The helicopter was originally launched in 2011, marking the first mobility product launched by the brand beyond automobiles. Exuding a sense of sophistication and grace, the interiors excel with exceptional variability and exquisite materials. Created specifically by the Mercedes designers, the seats are mounted on rails and can be positioned in various arrangements for four to eight people, or if desired, completely removed. The helicopter is tailor-made for those who like to travel in sheer luxury, for both business and private tours. Ten such helicopters have, till date, been purchased and delivered to their valued clients. Currently, the Mercedes-Benz Style team is closely working with Lufthansa engineers to create a completely new and grand cabin concept for short and medium-range aircrafts. The classic division between the ceiling, walls and floor is blurred by a dynamic, spiraling division of space, giving rise to new, independent spatial zones without the typical arrangements of wall elements and seats. Further emphasizing the sense of space is the Mercedes’s typically strong emphasis on contrast in terms of material, color and lighting.

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A S P O R T Y E X T R AVA G A N Z A

A SPORTY EXTRAVAGANZA Steering the wheel of technological advacement, the McLaren’s 570S sets a new benchmark for the sports car market, with the highest power and the lightest body

Rashi Bisaria

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‘For McLaren it’s about efficiency through the air’ says Robert Melville, Chief designer at supercar brand McLaren.. The all-new McLaren Sports Series brings McLaren race-derived technologies and supercar driving exhilaration to the sports car market. The company which unveiled the McLaren 570S, the first model in the new McLaren Sports Series at the New York Auto show, completes the McLaren three tier model range, priced from £126,000 McLaren’s journey from the year 1993 when it came out with the first road car to today, when it has several variations of it and now the sports series, has been remarkable. The obsession with detail and perfection, the focused approach, the cuttingedge technology and the F1 lineage have all contributed towards constructing the brand. Drawing on a rich legacy of racing technology and engineering perfection, McLaren remains unbeaten in its quest for excellence. In every car it produces, the brand incorporates its race-bred technology, one of the reasons for it being a favourite with automobile aficionados. The basic design philosophy of a McLaren is that everything is there for a reason which started with Bruce McLaren himself. All design and engineering decisions are backed by this philosophy. Every curve and component is considered in detail. Each design element is built to add to the exhilaration one feels

while driving the dream machine. The design process of a McLaren is what sets it apart and is a mix of 50 years of racing heritage and formula 1 technology. Most of the inspiration for the McLaren cars still comes from the formula 1 races. The latest addition to the McLaren range completes the three tier model strategy alongside the Super Series and Ultimate Series. The Sports Series is the most usable and attainable model to wear a McLaren badge to date, but it retains the core design and dynamic focus, ensuring it is still worth carrying the iconic brand name. The Sports Series is almost 150kg lighter than its closest rival. As the highest powered and lightest car in the sports car segment, with a class-leading power-to-weight ratio of 434PS per tonne, this series has set a new benchmark. Launching with two power outputs, the Sports Series offers class-leading performance, lightweight construction including a carbon fibre chassis, recognisable McLaren design values and a comprehensive specification list. The interior is more tailored around a day-to-day usability, with optimised access, greater levels of stowage space and added refinement. The Sports Series introduces the McLaren design language to the sports car segment for the first time, with tense, ‘shrinkwrapped’, body lines giving it an edge over competition. The two colours unveiled at the Auto show were the Ventura Orange and the Blade Silver.

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The Ventura Orange model showed a more track-focus, with extensive exterior carbon fibre upgrades, optional stealth-finished fivespoke lightweight wheel option and two-tone sports interior, while the Blade Silver model debuted a more luxurious specification with saddle tan interior and the 10-spoke super lightweight wheels. The Sports series is aimed at a different audience, competing in the sports car as opposed to the supercar market for the first time. Performance, driving engagement and exhilaration have again made it to the top of the priority list. The dramatic and beautiful sports car can be customised to a great extent, making the new McLaren truly groundbreaking and innovative. It is built to perfectly trace the driver’s intentions. It can sail over busted roads with inimitable smoothness. With fluidity in its movement and an alert steering, it is best experienced over winding roads. The McLaren’s personalisation capabilities take the pleasure of ownership to another level altogether. The McLaren owner can benefit from the unique personalisation programmes of the vehicle. Technicians of a McLaren are known to travel around the world to offer their services and bespoke upgrades are common.The motivation to be the one of the best in automobile technology, which caters to refined sensibilities and tastes, remains.

HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ

OF THE ELITE, FOR THE ELITE

From property dealership to wealth management and much more, The Continental Group has been setting the benchmark for qualitative services. Venturing into C’s 500, a private member’s club, the brand brings together the finest of individuals to enjoy a variety of premium services

Diksha Vohra With a vision to provide the affluent with a variety of services to take care of their primary wealth and investment needs, The Continental Group was set up by Mohammed Khashoggi and MohammedHassan Khairallah Al Emara. As destiny would have it, these two partners belonged to completely different walks of life over almost a decade ago. Running their individual business and studying at the same time, both Khashoggi and Al Emara were preoccupied with their respective works. As they crossed paths, they discovered a mutual interest towards providing the real estate market with what it lacked quality services. A brand that initially started off in 2010 as a property advisory firm, The Continental Group has now expanded into five more subsidiaries – Continental Developments for Property Development, TCG Family Office for Wealth Management. C’s 500 Lifestyle for Private Lifestyle management & Concierge services, Continental Trading for Market trading and Continental Media Production for Media Production facilities. With such dynamic operations in place, they’d often meet individuals who were driven by a cause or a passion, who believed in changing the course of the tide through their efforts. During this period, they had also been attending a lot of international VIP events, where the sub-standard of their environment appalled them. Al Emara deliberates, “Think about having the backdrop of the Monaco F1 with you standing on a yacht which is so full that individual movement becomes difficult, with loud music and the overwhelming smell

of alcohol perturbing one further, how can one enjoy?” That was when both Khashoggi and Al Emara decided to launch a private lifestyle club called C’s 500 which literally means ‘Continental’s 500’, through which the duo hosts events at their own platforms during international events, addressing all the issues above and providing much more. “C’s 500 specifically is a Private Business and an Entertainment Club exclusive to 500 private & corporate members only and capped at only 100 acceptances annually.” claims Khashoggi. C’s 500 is for one who is active, driven for a cause and comes with a track record of success in his respective industry. Its not important to be a millionaire here but it is important to have a vision and the ability to follow one’s desired goal. From a pool of such dynamic individuals, the members of the group are selected based on some special criteria like attending one of their headline events as a prospect, acceptance by current members and membership committee, ability to add value to the club and so on. In return, a member of the C’s 500 enjoys an array of unparalleled services - from access to C’s 500’s Calendar, which provides one access to their own headline events, premium global events and Business Oriented Gala evenings. In addition to the above, they also enjoy C’s 500’s associated concierge services and an access to the The Continental Group’s business solution. Delving further on this process, C’s 500 offers two types of membership packages to choose from – Corporate and Individual, with each available in Full and Light Packages. Along with the facilities and services mentioned

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above available in both membership packages, the Full Packages of both the memberships provide their members with a Montegrappa Passport Holder, a Gold USB, their signature Carbon Fibre Membership box, Gold RFID Key and an option to bring two extra guests at each event. C’s 500, hence, leaves no stone unturned in making sure their members feel distinguished and important. A key distinguishing factor from the rest in the market is C’s 500’s ability to provide their members with a private platform across all major events, thereby ensuring a more intimate and comfortable experience, while taking care of all other factors that might hamper full participation and enjoyment. For example, they hosted an event during Abu Dhabi F1 Grand Prix last year by chartering one of the largest yachts in the region and securing the number one berth at the Yas Marina, enabling their members to watch the race up-close and uninterrupted, surrounded by utmost luxury, flowing waters and an energetic, classy crowd. Headquartered in London with a parallel running base in Jeddah, the brand now explores the Middle Eastern land to attract international clients. However, unlike other groups, The Continental Group does not wish to expand its base anywhere else. Al Emara explains, “We are from London and Jeddah. We know the markets, the trends, the economics and the scope of these cities well enough to operate comfortably there. However, we don’t enter unknown territories.” Through their focused vision, expertise and service skills, C’s 500 is sure to mark a turning point in luxury hospitality.

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HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ

OF THE ELITE, FOR THE ELITE

WHEN THE REFINED MEET Continental Group’s ever popular C’s 500, a Private Business and Entertainment Club, hosted their first Business Gala evening on the 6th of April 2016 in collaboration with Signé as their exclusive media partners. Held at the luxurious Saluzi yacht on the coast of the scenic Dubai Marina, the event was the first of their three-series annual business oriented events. The exclusive event was attended by C’s 500 members, associates, distinguished guests and Signé Society members, wherein they all received an opportunity to network with various industry leaders, sharing insights into current business topics and ideas. A special Real Estate Presentation was also conducted by CBRE for the esteemed attendees followed by a Luxury Super Yacht Presentation by Burgees. Whilst enjoying signature drinks accompanied by delicious canapes, discerned guests engaged in interactive discussions amongst themselves, the presenters and the Continental Group representatives, comfortably strolling around the magnificent yacht that embodied sophistication with a class.

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A CLASSIC TOUCH

A CLASSIC TOUCH The city, whose elite gentlemen’s club culture is second to none, has been igniting its fascination with dark leather, cognac and smokes with the sophisticated and luxurious Cigar Room. It serves as a top class, luxury humidor, replete with polished tobacco-loving staff, a range of high-end cigars, and plenty of refined drinks to choose from

Niyoshi Chudgar The Cigar Room, situated in Palm Jumeirah, overlooking the breathtaking Arabian Gulf and Dubai skyline, is a chic and sophisticated lounge ideal for cigar lovers and others who enjoy aperitifs, or after dinner drinks and digestives. The interiors exude a subtle regal style that creates a royally luxurious atmosphere, fulfilling all your champagne wishes, caviar dreams and cigar pleasures. Many of us discover the simpler pleasures of life after a rousting discussion with a sommelier or after an exposure to an extensive selection of world-class cigar cognacs. With the comfort of an elegantly chic surrounding

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matching the city’s grandeur, and the benefits of curated selections of the two best things in life – whisky and cigar, the ever-popular Cigar Room at Fairmont The Palm, fits perfectly into our current state of mind. A collector seeks out the rarest most exclusive smokes, keeps them judiciously humidified, perhaps for years, and then lights up that prized panatela or cherished Churchill and savors every puff. The Cigar Room offers all of this and more. A limited number of private handcrafted cigar lockers within its walk-in humidor are made available to their most distinguished guests so that they can indulge in signature world-class cocktails

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and exclusive cigars in utmost luxury. One of their signature offerings is the finest Cuban cigar - Cohiba Behike, one of the most prestigious brands offering incomparable character and flavor and carries 3 sizes: BHK 52, BHK 54 and BHK 56. The fabrication of this cigar is exceptionally limited and exclusive since it incorporates the use of a rare tobacco leaf “Medio tiempo”, which offers a unique distinguished aroma. The filler contains handpicked leaves from Volado, Seco and Ligero originating from San Juan y Martinez and San Luis. Additionally, they offer a chance to sample some of the world’s rarest and oldest

liquors such as the Macallan “M”, the final entry in Macallan’s 1824 Series. Made with whiskies that are matured in sherry casks, the drink is a heady cocktail with notes of dried fruits ripen, then soften showing off velvet sateen. The Macallan M comes in a unique crystal decanter, designed by the celebrated fashion and luxury goods designer - Fabien Baron - and crafted by Lalique, an experience you can savor for a lifetime. Moreover you also get the pleasure of conversing with the bartenders and the team, who are all gleefully obsessive and aching to pass along their passion. Mr Urrea, manager of the Cigar Room, was recently recognized as the 2nd place winner in the 15th edition of the International Habanosommelier that took place in Cuba in February 2016. He also represented the UAE in the esteemed Master Challenge, being the only contestant from the Middle East competing with representatives from South American and European countries including UK, Spain, Brazil, Chile, Austria, Czech Republic and Mexico. The elegantly luxe lounge is a pilgrimage for refined tipplers for some exclusive barrelaged cocktails. You can get your own made aged cocktail – perfect for aficionados who curate their cellars based not only on the pleasure principle but also on their everincreasing values. Small wonder, then, that counterfeiting has assumed epidemic proportions and those cigars, once a symbol of luxuriant relaxation, are now perceived by many as a qualitative investment. To top it all it offers more than 80 varieties of whiskey indulging your palette from the famous regions of Scotland. So forget about poorly lit lounges with lackluster cocktail offerings and prepare for some serious pampering at the Cigar Room.

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HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ

A FA R Z I - F I E D E X P E R I E N C E

A FARZI-FIED EXPERIENCE Marking its international debut, the popular modern spice bistro Farzi Café opens its doors in Dubai. Introducing molecular cuisine while giving it all the celebrated Arabian touch, the restaurant introduces a holistic one-of-a-kind dining experience

Diksha Vohra Brainchild of Zoravar Kalra, popularly known as the Prince of Indian Cuisine, Farzi Café has taken bistro dining to a whole new level, introducing a never-seen-before combination of delicious offerings for their discerning diners. Having achieved unimaginable success in its homeland, Farzi Café enters the region, bringing the finest of Indian cuisine with an international twist to experience at Citywalk, Dubai. We join Zoravar over a quiet lunch at Farzi Café, discovering the intricacies of his special offerings. Hailing from Delhi, India, Zoravar has been surrounded by food and culinary talks from his childhood. His father, Jiggs Kalra, was not only a well-known food critic of his time but has also been instrumental in designing the menu of some of India’s best fine dining restaurants. Carrying the heritage forward, Zoravar chose to establish restaurants, giving his father’s long cherished desires, a tangible shape. Farzi, as the name suggests, is all about creating an illusion. Situated in a spacious corner of Citywalk, the ambiance of the outpost at once evokes the spirit of fusion and innovation. With sunlight entering through their massive floor to ceiling windows, their suave interiors and chic furniture set the mood for a cozy and a comfortable dining experience. Zoravar explains, “The décor of the restaurant has especially been designed keeping in mind the concept of the cuisine. We are presenting traditional food with an international touch. This restaurant, caters

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to those who love experimenting with flavors and celebrate innovation.” The brand is also the first of its kind to introduce the concept of molecular food. For instance, the popular Mishti Doi is a dish, which is traditionally fermented sweet yogurt, which the café presents, in shot glasses surrounded by smoking dry ice, giving the dish a magical feel. Similarly, the café offers guests a surprise in every dish. The cuisine includes some tantalizing favorites with an Arabian twist such as nine different types of humus mixed with Indian flavors, served with crisp papadams, and tomato soup with zatar and basil pesto topped breads. The menu also skillfully embraces Eastern flavors, with the Farzi Mezze, a platter serving duck samosa, vin leaf sausage, fatayer falafel, pita, mohamas, walnut and green apple mohamarra hummus and chutney, whilst the dessert selection showcases the artistry and delicacy of the pastry kitchen including Pear Baklava with Pistachio Launji and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream. Next on the panel of discovery were their signature beverages. From Virgin Pinacolada, served in a glass with a built in straw, to Turkish coffee served in a funnel shaped glass over a coffee mug, each offering is not only a treat for the eyes but has a distinct flavor. Offering a holistic experience for diners of all kinds, the café revamps the basic concept of modern bistro dining. Bringing mouth-watering dishes in an entirely new look, Farzi Café is ideal for lunches, high tea and dinners.

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NEW IN TOWN

POOLSIDE BRUNCH R E S TAU R A N T Basking under the sun on a cool terrace between poolside dips while feasting on some mouth-watering delicacies, and that’s brunch complete in itself. Providing all of the above and much more is 3in1’s Urban Picnic Brunch held every Friday and Saturday at the Vida Downtown Dubai. Unveiling the newly added live barbeque stations, the brunch offers a variety of burgers, steaks, hotdogs and sizzling barbeque favorites with refreshing beverages to tantalize your taste buds. Leaving no mediocre options in its brunch wake, one can even book one of the beautiful white poolside cabanas for in-between dips. With their DJ’s signature beats playing in the background accompanying delicious offerings and unmatched services, Vida’s Urban Picnic Brunch is a must to experience for an unforgettable weekend brunch.

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A TANTALIZING TREASURE R E S TAU R A N T & B A R To cook well, preserving traditional flavors and presenting them in a contemporary style, is an art only a few have mastered. One of such masters – Annie Féolde – brings the ever-popular culinary venture – The Artisan by Enoteca Pinchiorri, to Dubai. Situated in Burj Daman Building, DIFC, the restaurant boasts a unique and a refined casual dining experience. Their eclectic menu, which includes a mouthwatering 36 month old parmesan cheese with a generous dash of seasoned Modena balsamic vinegar, slow cooked octopus with The Artisan’s exclusive homemade olive oil, and fresh homade pastas truly leaves one’s taste buds surprised and craving for more. Bringing the exclusive flavors of Florence to Dubai, The Artisan is not just a restaurant but an institution of gourmet excellence.

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NEW IN TOWN

FIRST IN TOWN BOUTIQUE Launched in the heart of the city’s shopping destination – The Dubai Mall – is Stefanel’s first mono-brand store. Spread across 150 square meters, the store features two windows arranged on a single floor dedicated to womenswear and accessories. The Italian brand, renowned for their chic designs and decent varieties of fashion products, is all set to create a capsule collection keeping the regional market in mind. Opened in partnership with Paris Gallery Group of Companies, Stefanel is planning on expanding into Abu Dhabi and other neighboring countries like Kuwait and Iran.

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SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 20

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