SWISSMADE MAGAZINE 4 by lillisimone studio

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Academia

Silicium Hora Mundi Exclusive DeWitt calibre DW2021 mechanical movement, 24 time zones, second time zone indication & date. "Academia" rose gold case and pure silicium dial. Unique Piece.

2 M A N U FA C T U R E D E W I T T - G E N E VA - S W I T Z E R L A N D - W W W. D E W I T T. C H

EDITORIAL

Dear Readers, I hope that this year has brought you the happiness we all deserve. Even hard times can be a blessing, if we can learn from them. A strong belief and a lot of determination are two main ingredients in our best adventures. We all work hard to obtain what we consider important, with love being the main goal. Besides love, we all share the desire to make or see people happy. What is happiness, after all, if it cannot be shared with a loved one? This is the time of year when we most express our love and appreciation to family and friends. I would like to take this opportunity to thank those who have shared your appreciation for our publication. This is the best reward I

could have asked for after months spent bringing an idea to reality. It must be the same feeling that master watchmakers have when, after spending thousands of hours creating a masterpiece, they see it “alive” on the wrist of an appreciative watch aficionado. Independent watchmakers, in particular, struggle to finally be rewarded by the acceptance of the public. Many may not have the financial means of the larger groups, but they are so full of passion for what they do that they inspire all of us. In the next year, we will delve even deeper into this fascinating world of independents and share our discoveries with you. Because of their pure and unconditioned approach, the independent watchmakers, manufactures and upstart companies fuel the creativity and richness of the industry more than ever. To them we dedicate our INNOVATION section, where we presented creations by Jaeger-LeCoultre, Urwerk, Greubel Forsey, De Bethune, MB&F and Ulysse Nardin in this issue. Upstarts have an influence on well-established companies because they have less to lose and therefore blaze trails with innovative technology. Of particular note is Richard Mille, which after less than 10 years as a company was awarded the most coveted “Golden Hand” (Aiguille d’or) prize by the 7th Watchmaking Grand Prix in 2007. Of course, the most respected names in the industry lead the way by showing an unprecedented confidence in more daring models. Swiss watchmakers know what consumers want — all over the world! The export figures in 2007 have exceeded by far the best months achieved previously. May you find the coming year to be as prosperous. The staff of SwissMade Magazine wishes you a very happy new year.

Massimiliano Pantieri

1911 BTR

Calibre 139 – Automatic Chronograph with unique functions display, skeleton dial, hand-stitched alligator strap. THE MASTERY OF TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN The ultimate timepiece collection for men. Watches of sophisticated function, powered by Ebel COSC-certified automatic movements; each developed, assembled and controlled in Ebel’s workshops in Switzerland. For more information call + 41 (0) 800 880 660 or visit www.1911BTR.com

I N D E X

XEMEX Piccadilly Hours With its striking 40 mm case, narrow bezel and correspondingly large dial, the Xemex “Piccadilly” series is ideally designed to present additional useful information as well as showing the time legibly, with its own unique, innovative feature: the “large hour hand”.

HAUTE HORLOGERIE

La Rose and La Tulipe

Spectacular demonstrations of artistic craftsmanship by Massimiliano Pantieri

The process of making a watch is closely akin to that implied by any other great work of art. Jaeger-LeCoultre has created two extraordinary watches, each embellished with over 3,000 precious stones: La Rose and La Tulipe. Under the watchful guidance of Giampero Bodino, art director of the Richemont group, the jewelry artisans have patiently shaped these models, giving them a timeless form inspired by nature, while the Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmakers and gem-setters have imbued them with

passion and grace. Like poetic muses, the La Rose and La Tulipe watches have inspired Jaeger-LeCoultre gem-setters in their insatiable thirst for perfection. Perfectly embodying the artists’ propensity to push the limits of what is deemed humanly possible, La Rose and La Tulipe called for a level of sophisticated and refined workmanship that is unprecedented in the field of jewelrywatches. To paint a landscape composed of more than 3,000 stones, the “dream-maker” gem-setters of the manufactures have devoted over 600 hours to setting each model.

La Rose and La Tulipe

CORUM’s Golden Bridge Adam & Eve is limited to 50 pieces worldwide in 18kt yellow, rose or white gold with or with out diamonds. To behold a timepiece this unique is to feel as if you have experienced the Garden of Eden. BREGUET REF 3857, made in 1997 in only three examples to commemorate the 250th Anniversary of the birth of Abraham Louis Breguet (1747 - 1823). (Antiquorum’s Important Collectors watches)

OLLECTORS CLAMOR FOR LIMITED-EDITION WATCHES by Beth Braverman

Call them instant collectibles. The new, limited-edition watches offered by luxury watchmakers appeal to that inherent human desire to have that which no one else can attain. Limited-edition watches (limits vary from just a handful to a few hundred pieces) have instant cache that makes watch aficionados take note. They also represent a great holiday gift option for the man or woman who seems to have everything. “Limited-edition watches continue to be in very high demand,”

HARRY WINSTON Garland

says Paul Ziff, president of Zenith North America. “People are drawn to watches made in small series, and we at Zenith have had very good success with our limited editions. The relatively small production of hand-made, auto-mechanical watches continues to be part of its attraction and the limited series is the pinnacle in terms of ultra-exclusivity.” Doron Basha, president and chief executive officer of Milus USA, says limited-edition watches charm watch connoisseurs who tend to own multiple watches.

COLLECTORS & Limited Editions

PLATINUM

Cartier BALLON BLEU

WHET your appetite

Helvetica

Max Frisch

CHOPARD

platinum by Beth Braverman

As consumers continue to clamor for luxury watches, the interest in platinum the most luxurious of metals—as a top choice in case material has grown as well. The increased price tag of platinum watches only increases their appeal for well-heeled clients. “Price is not an object these days,” says Michael O’Connor, senior vice president of marketing and public relations at the Platinum Guild International. “Anyone who is looking for a quality timepiece or a quality piece of jewelry is looking at the components. If they’re looking for high style and a highquality movement, they have to look at the composition of the case as well. Consumers in the mindset where they are looking for the best quality in style and in workmanship want the best they can get, and that is always platinum.” Just as jewelers use platinum to display their finest diamonds and best-quality gemstones, it appears watchmakers select the purest of metals to showcase their very best work. The inherent rarity of platinum (it is 30 times rarer than gold),increases its appeal for those looking for something unique and different. Often platinum pieces appear in limited-edition collections, and in-the-know collectors often preorder pieces before they even hit retail store shelves. Platinum watches appeal to men who want to wear the luxury metal but might hesitate to purchase other types of jewelry for themselves. Reocgnizing this, classic watch brands like Rolex, Cartier and Piaget have unveiled a host of new fashion-forward platinum timepieces aimed at the styles man. In addition, some unexpected brands like Swiss Army, Tissot and American designer Alan Friedman have also introduced limited-edition platinum pieces, “I am seeing more and more platinum watches,” O’Connor adds. “The smarter brands are taking advantage of the platinum halo in jewelry and fashion.” The trend has found worldwide appeal among both male and femal e watch aficionados. Last year, the value of Swiss platinum watches exported increased a whopping 23 percent.

HARRY WINSTON Tourbillon Glissière laureate of the “Complicated Watch Prize”at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie 2007

PIERRE KUNZ Tourbillon Metropolitan

Photo: Franck Dieleman © Cartier 2007

Cartier

ballon bleu

A very private circle for House of Cartier experts The guilloche dial, the sword-shaped hands, the links of solid gold or solid brushed steel for the bracelet…At first glance, the latest model from the House of Cartier joins Cartier’s horology galaxy of time, with one exception. The odyssey of the invisible Ballon Bleu de Cartier? There is something unfamiliar about the name, a promise of a new horology planet. With its diffracted roundness, extra-blue winding mechanism, and elliptical profile, the Ballon bleu de Cartier watch draws a line between past and future, between what we know and what we would like to know about the universe and time. A watch satellite, whose sending into orbit Cartier has entrusted to six comic book writers. Because reading time is synonymous with dreaming, travelling, as if in an imaginary bubble. Seven Ninth Art writers for an odyssey album, a collective work, to be followed from one story to the next: a voyage through time for Moebius/Jean Giraud; bizarre thoughts around a blue stone for Glen Baxter; a tale of time through the interpretation of a Shakespeare sonnet for Lorenzo Mattotti, etc. A harmonic piece of work that also includes creations by Schuiten, Taniguchi, Floc’h and Burns.

©Beau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne

INNOVATION 12

Swiss Wine SELECTION 2007

BEST WISHES

Whet

your appetite

by Susan Robinson

To complement the supple character of Chasselas, which ranges from floral to fruity, the lady might choose the Classique wristwatch from Breguet. This extra-thin model exudes elegance and taste with its silvered gold dial and bracelet band of yellow or white gold.

Swiss vineyards cultivate many grape varieties, but Chasselas is regarded as the most important by far. Switzerland is the only country to fully exploit its special qualities and to produce from this one grape a diverse range of white wines. With a dry, light wine such as Chasselas, select a classic style from our “menu” of watches. For the gentleman, we suggest the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust with a Goldust dial, where nature meets state-of-the-art technology. The mother-of-pearl dial is sprayed with a fine layer or platinum or gold, allowing the beauty of the shell to glow through the metal.

If you are celebrating a special occasion, you’ll want to pop open one of a number of sparkling wines made in Switzerland. In producing these wines, many Swiss vintners use the “methode traditionelle” technique, which is identical to that used to make champagne. The principal grape variety used is Chardonnay, which results in refreshing wines of high quality. The perfect accompaniment, of course, is a watch with shimmering diamonds. Chopard gives diamond enthusiasts many ways to experience the precious gems, including the popular Ice Cube and Happy Diamonds designs. Whatever your preference — traditional

EXTRAORDINARY watches 26

by Michael C. Neal

EVENTS 34

The exhibit was organized by Christian Larsen, a curatorial assistant at MoMa museum and it pays homage to Helvetica’s ubiquity with an installation of 25 works that feature Helvetica typeface. The collection is on display in the Philip Johnson Architecture and Design Gallery of the museum and includes

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ABCD EFGHIJK LMNOP QRSTUV WXYZ Helvetica 50 years of

The Swiss are known around the globe for the art of watchmaking, but some of the world’s best wines also are produced in Switzerland. For fun, why not pair fine Swiss wines with luxury watches — after all, what better way to pass the time than to enjoy a nice glass of vino?

original lead forms of the typeface from 1956-57 as well as a 1970 New York City Subway map designed by Massimo Vignelli. Also included in the exhibit are posters, signage, and graphic material such as the album covers for popular bands Massive Attack (Blue Lines, 2001) and Sonic Youth (SYR1: Anagram, 1997). Helvetica, which is a Latin word for Switzerland, was created in 1957 by Swiss font designers Max Miedinger and Edouard Hoffman at the Haas Type Foundry in Münchenstein, Switzerland. It was Miedinger who was commissioned at the time to develop an updated typeface by the Haas foundry director. His original name for the typeface, Neue Haas Grotesk, was eventually changed in 1961 to the aforementioned, when the Haas foundry began marketing the font to the international market.

Image courtesy of typo graphic illustration www.ni9e.com/typo_illus.html

Image courtesy of Swiss Dots

MAX FRISCH Hanno Edelmann Graphitzeichnung, 1976 ©Michael Edelmann impressum http://www.portraitkunst.com/

DER SCHRIFTSTELLER MAX FRISCH Varlin (Willy Guggenheim) 1958

winter FASHION TRENDS 52

Max

Frisch by Jaylyn Burger

Herald as one of the most influential Swiss writers of the 20th century, Max Frisch garnered acclaim for his prolific achievements as a novelist, playwright, diarist, and essayist. His novels highlight the concept of individual alienation in modern society. Much of his writing explores human identity, individuality, responsibility, morality, and political commitment and encourages the reader to consider an alternative perception to the presented reality. From 1930 to 1932, Frisch studied German literature, art history, and philosophy, specifically Soren Kierkegaard and Friedrich Nietzsche, later reflected in his work. His time at the University of Zurich ended abruptly due to the sudden death of his father, Franz. Unable to pay tuition, Frisch withdrew from school and began working as a columnist and journalist for Neue Zürcher Zeitung, a prominent Swiss newspaper, in order to support his mother and himself. In addition, he wrote literary critiques and articles on athletics and travel as an independent contractor. In this capacity, he journeyed to eastern and southeastern Europe and the Balkans, which afforded him the opportunity to observe the idiosyncrasies of different cultures. Frisch returned to school in 1936 at ETH Zurich to follow his

father’s path as an architect and later opened his own firm. Intermittently, he served with the Swiss army during World War II, recording experiences in his journal later released as Blätter au dem Brotsack. For 12 years, Frisch provided the Swiss public with original architectural design. His most well-known project was a public swimming bath in central Zurich. Despite his limited amount of free time as a business owner, Frisch still dedicated time to cultivate his first art. Unfortunately, several attempts to publish both novels and plays failed miserably, including his book, Jürg Bernhardt. Finally in 1949, Frisch’s play When the War Was Over persuaded critics to commend his talents and recognize from the general public as a serious and gifted artist. A grant from the Rockefeller Trust served as the vehicle of Frisch’s year-long stay in the United States in 1951. Undoubtedly, his trip inspired the later work and acclaimed 1954 novel, Stiller. The story depicts a gentlemen’s struggle to prove his identity when incarcerated for crossing the border with a fake passport. However, the protagonist’s story is brought into question by Frisch towards the climax of the work. Ultimately, he forces the reader to consider a different paradigm than that supplied by

the narrator. After the success of Stiller, Frisch lived solely on the money from the sale of his architectural firm. During this time, he directed his undivided attention to writing. Homo Faber, one of his most famous books, resulted from this driven time period. In a straightforward and unromantic style, Frisch presents a calculated and meticulous UNESCO engineer forced to reconsider his view of the world after an emergency aircraft landing in a Mexican desert. Throughout the story, Faber suffers continuous hardships, including coping with his friend’s suicide, accepting the death of the woman he loves, and falling ill with stomach cancer. These events leave Faber questioning his life’s decisions, but ironically the situation provides no opportunity for change. Frisch’s early work can be classified as conservative, but after World War II he began to address contemporary issues with an open mind and passive attitude. In 1958 he was awarded the prestigious Georg-Buchner Prize, the same year he met Austrian writer Ingeborg Bachman. While living in Rome with Bachman, Frisch wrote his most famous play, Andorra. This piece questioned the racial prejudices and conformism of a

society with a growing intolerance of Jews. In 1965, Frisch returned to Switzerland, but did not stay long, as his wanderlust inspired him to visit China, Mexico, Cuba, the Middle East, Israel, the USSR, and Japan. The Swiss author died of cancer on April 4, 1991. Frisch’s many accolades include the Friedenspreis des Deutschen Buchhandels, the Heinrich-HeinePreis, and Jerusalem Prize for the Freedom of the Individual in Society. He also was venerated with honorary degrees from the University of Marburg, Bard College, City University of New York, University of Birmingham, and the TU Berlin. He is credited, along with Fredrick Dürenmatt, as solidifying German-speaking Switzerland’s place in the literary world. Frisch once was quoted as saying, “I l live, like every real man, in my work.”

SPA Products 74 Cho pard

709 Madison Haute Joaillerie Collection

ACCESSORIES 94

The treasure of the Haute Joaillerie Collection is a stunning and elaborate necklace and earring set which consists of an intricate collaboration of square-cut and brilliantcut diamonds drenched with 13 large cascading pear drop emeralds. The collection also includes an elaborate pink sapphire and diamond necklace with matching fan shaped earrings; a ruby rose set choker on ornate black diamonds; a leaf effect black diamond necklace with amethysts and oval shaped red sapphires; long, ornate amethyst cabochons and black diamond earrings; and a contemporary white pearl and diamond necklace. 44

sm STAFF

Editor Massimiliano Pantieri Art Director Lilli Bertoni Creative Director Simone Sanfratello Contributors Susan Robinson Beth Braverman Noah Joseph Shabana Nather Andrea Crisanti Michael C. Neal Jaylyn Burger Sherry Williams April Boland Rosanne Lim Yolanda Evans Lei Conrad Billy Bautista Andrea Stolarczyk Copy Editors Susan Robinson Annamaria Crapa Layout and Design FLOOR3 industries Graphic Designer Anna Scaccabarozzi Alice Visin Printing Arti Grafiche Bertoni Verderio Inf. (LC) Italy Publisher FLOOR3 industries sagl Marketing & Communication Agency Via Taiada 50 6517 Arbedo

Order your personal copy at www.swissmademagazine.com All the published material has been provided by the mentioned brands. Therefore, SwissMade Magazine cannot be responsible for copyright issues and assumes no responsility on inaccurate information or changes in the product displayed. Reproduction or use of the content in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

Editorial office SwissMade Magazine Via Taiada 50 6517 Arbedo (TI) Switzerland Contacts editor@swissmademagazine.com advertising@swissmademagazine.com Exclusive distribution through certified point of sales, luxury hotels, private jets, executive lounges, embassies, special events and private mailing.

Winter Charme

BREGUET Les Groseilliers fine jewelry collection HARRY WINSTON Diamond de Neige Tiara

Winter CHARME

XMAS TIME !

PRECIOUS MOMENTS

175 Years of Elegance in Watchmaking

luxurious healing in SWITZERLAND

TIME Machines

Le Corbusier

De Grisogono

XMAS TIME !

PIAGET Limelight Party 18-carat white gold necklace set with 291 brilliant-cut diamonds, 1 cushion-cut blue sapphires and 2 pearcut and brilliant-cut blue sapphires PIAGET Limelight Party 18-carat white gold ring set with 630 brilliant-cut diamonds and 1 white opal

PRECIOUS MOMENTS The Limelight Party talking-piece collection by Piaget celebrates the festive spirit. So what could be better for the upcoming festive season? Inspired by the codes of gaming, the rhythm of vinyl records and the glitter of spangles, this watch and jewellery collection highlights the creative genius and the expertise of the House of Piaget, illustrated here by sparkling rings and necklaces. Distinctly classic and yet equally intriguing, a deep blue 35-carat sapphire accentuates the mystery of a resolutely glamorous woman. Thanks to an ingenious secret mechanism, this necklace can be worn demurely around the neck, or daringly nestling in a plunging neckline. The spellbound gaze is inexorably drawn along a row of diamonds tipped by a pear-cut sapphire. The matching earrings underscore the understated elegance of this set. The same contrast between colour and diamonds is featured on a white gold ring that is subtly enhanced by the intense pink of a 25-carat tourmaline. The setting is distinguished by a refined sequence of shades created by pink sapphires along with brilliant and princess-cut diamonds. The sensual and magical emerald evokes the fever on the gaming tables. On this stunning jewellery set, the rows of diamonds, interspersed with playing card symbols, surround a rare 26-carat Colombian emerald, enhanced by 17 gemstones of the same water, to adorn a dazzling neckline. Exceptional jewellery shimmers in the magic of festive evenings… Glittering gems designed by Piaget to delight the entrancingly seductive women who are the life and soul of the party.

175 years of elegance

The start of an epic In 1832, Auguste Agassiz entered the world of time by joining forces with an existing «comptoir» selling and making watches in Saint-Imier, a small village in a valley in the Swiss Jura. Proving himself skilled in both technical and commercial activities, he quickly took over the running of the firm that soon changed its name to Agassiz & compagnie. He created a sales network that led him to setting up contacts with distant markets, especially beyond the Atlantic. Forced by illness to abandon work, he gave the reins to his nephew, Ernest Francillon, who joined the comptoir’s activities in 1852. At the time, the firm simply coordinated the different tasks undertaken by artisans working from home, in line with the piecework organization typical of watchmaking in the Jura. In 1862, Francillon added his name to the firm and, as a visionary watchmaker, began considering how to improve the manufacture of timepieces. His conclusions led him to abandon the traditional production methods in favor of a new way.

in watchmaking by Massimiliano Pantieri

A new manufacturing process In 1867, Ernest Francillon built a factory on the right bank of the Suze at a place called «Les Longines» (literally «long meadows»), using the river’s waters to power it. He brought together under the same roof the different craftsmen who previously had worked for his comptoir from home, thus establishing a new way of organizing manufacturing. To increase the quality and regularity of his watches, Francillon adopted mechanical manufacturing processes and took on Jacques David, a young kinsman, to help him devise the tools and machines needed to improve the process. The factory now named «Longines» after the area was already the leading watch manufacturer in the region and experimented with and adapted the possibilities offered by mechanization. During the last quarter of the 19th century and into the early 20th century, the firm underwent strong development, confirming the industrial option chosen by Francillon. In the year it was constructed, the factory employed 40 workers; by 1911, it had more than 1,100, providing employment in a village that counted only 7,000 souls. At the same time, the firm expanded its sales network and

To mark the anniversary, Longines presented at BaselWorld its new sports collection as a hommage to the brand’s long sports history and then in September presented the following two timepieces during festivities at the Cité du Temps in Geneva, to represent during this special year the three pillars of the brand: Traditions, Sport and Elegance: The Longines Master Collection Retrograde — an exclusive man’s timepiece exemplifying Longines’ rich horological heritage and pursuit of elegance. This new watch, which encloses an automatic mechanical calibre developed especially for Longines by ETA, is the flagship model of a collection devoted to highlighting the horological traditions of the firm. 175 diamonds for 175 years — To commemorate this occasion, Longines designed a special women’s watch that bears witness to the company’s aesthetic heritage and historic penchant for elegance. Produced in a limited series

©swiss-image.ch

luxurious healing in switzerland by Noah Joseph

“What do a corporate honcho, a woman with gout, a movie star and a couple looking to get away for some alone time have in common?” You’ll find them all at one of the many spas that dot Switzerland. Unlike in so many other international spa destinations, the spa industry in Switzerland wasn’t the result of the frenzied, but calculated efforts of an ambitious tourism sector to fatten its coffers by promoting health giving therapies amidst the most spectacular natural beauty on the planet. Relaxing here isn’t about checking into a five star city spa thrown together with an exclusive slant towards the moneyed traveler looking for a quick massage and a soak. Switzerland has always had a deeply rooted wellness culture that grew out of the healing

waters of its renowned centuries old thermal healing springs. And it is precisely this long standing tradition of practicing wholesome natural healing methods using the abundant goodness of water that sets the country’s spas apart from more commercial wellness players on the global spa stage. And then there’s the little matter of the country’s postcard perfect beauty that plays its part to add to the Swiss spa experience. This combined with the crisp pristine air of the

Alps and the extensive network of hiking and walking trails that the country encourages its visitors to explore gives the most spa weary traveler a complete health giving experience that’s unmatched in range and ambience. A Brief History of Swiss Spas You can connect the spa culture in Switzerland to the revolution that overtook the continent when Europeans discovered the Roman baths. The popularity of these new

leisure centers led to the establishment of dozens of spa towns where the rich and fashionable set ventured to “take the waters.” Leukerbad where more than 3 million gallons of hot water gush out from natural springs, and Baden whose springs contain the most mineral rich waters in the country became premium Swiss leisure haunts. In the 1960s Switzerland and its many wellness centers became the magnet for 20th century aristocracy – the Hollywood set. Glamour icons of the day including Liz Taylor were known for

When Enzo Ferrari left Alfa Romeo to start his own outfit in 1947, Scuderia Ferrari was little more than a small racing team operating out of an even smaller garage on the outskirts of Modena, Italy – not far from the Swiss border. Sixty years later, the company he founded has grown into the winningest team in motorsports, produced more than its share of the most astonishing automobiles ever to grace asphalt, and taken its place as one of the most recognized brands in the world.

TIME MACHINES

FERRARI’S MECHANICAL MASTERPIECES ARE HIGHLY SOUGHT-AFTER BY COLLECTORS – FOR THE ROAD AND FOR THE WRIST

by Noah Joseph

Unlike many of its rivals that produce cars as their principal raison d’être and compete in motorsports only as a secondary activity, Ferrari has always been primarily a racing team which also produces road cars. The Scuderia remains the longeststanding and most successful team in Formula One, having taken fifteen constructor’s championships and fifteen driver’s titles, in addition to a long list of victories in numerous other racing classes. Along the way, some of the most celebrated drivers have piloted Ferrari race cars: names like Juan Manuel Fangio and Mario Andretti, Gilles Villeneuve and Niki Lauda, Nigel Mansell and Alain Prost, Michael Schumacher and this year’s champion Kimi Raikkonen, who this year brought home Ferrari’s 200th grand prix victory.

mile) race which the car dominated in the late 40’s, taking the checkered flag two years running. Only 25 were originally made, and far fewer remain in existence today, adding to the 166’s cachet.

Despite the clear focus on the race team, Ferrari’s road cars have hardly suffered. In fact they’ve only benefited from the technical knowledge garnered from competition, as the factory consistently turns out record-breaking, heart-stopping mechanical works of art.

Meanwhile all 36 examples of the classic 250 GTO remain accounted for, and are highly sought-after by collectors. Owners are hesitant in the extreme to part with their GTOs, and the cars seldom exchange hands: ten years ago one example went unsold at auction at a bid of $9 million. The last of the famous 250 series, the GTO stood on the shoulders of such giants as the Testa Rossa and 250 GT SWB Berlinetta. The GTO ranks as one of the most iconic automobiles of all time, inspiring the lines of later Ferraris – from the 275 GTB and to the more contemporary 550 Maranello – and lent its name to a Pontiac muscle car and the 80’s-era Ferrari supercar. Fitting tributes though they may be, none can supplant the emotive spirit of the original Gran Turismo Omologato.

The 166 MM Barchetta was one of the earliest of the truly great Ferraris. Crafted at a time when the line between racing cars and road cars was blurred at high speeds, the 166 got its MM designation from the famous Mille Miglia (thousand-

When design trends abandoned sumptuous curves for razor-sharp styling, Ferrari retained its place at the top of the industry with the Daytona. Legend has it that the press gave the car the name by which it is remembered, infuriating

LE CORBUSIER by Andrea Crisanti

ZENITH Grande Class Tourbillon El Primero

Le Corbusier is one of the most important interpreters of 20th century European architecture. His work makes him the strongest personality of all modern movements. Certainly he is the most complete, full of imagination, ideas and creativity. He believed that architecture is “able to produce happy people” and can improve the human condition through rational organization of space. The architect took on the mission to solve social conflicts by projecting new urban models where green spaces, air and square meters are granted to any 88

individual. Le Corbusier dealt with these arguments with an impetus that was at the same time rational and mystical, projecting “volumes assembled under the light,” masterpieces of sculptural architecture. Think of the Villa Savoye, which represents the most charming monument of the architectural cubism where the five principles of the “new architecture” appear: pilotis, roof gardens, an open floor plan, lengthwise windows and a free facade.

HAUTE HORLOGERIE

La Rose and La Tulipe Spectacular demonstrations of artistic craftsmanship by Massimiliano Pantieri

Like poetic muses, the La Rose and La Tulipe watches have inspired Jaeger-LeCoultre gem-setters in their insatiable thirst for perfection. Perfectly embodying the artists’ propensity to push the limits of what is deemed humanly possible, La Rose and La Tulipe called for a level of sophisticated and refined workmanship that is unprecedented in the field of jewelrywatches. To paint a landscape composed of more than 3,000 stones, the “dream-maker” gem-setters of the manufactures have devoted over 600 hours to setting each model. Each curve has been accentuated and every petal reproduced one by one. To create each detail, gem-setters

used the lost-wax technique. Invented in ancient Egypt, this process requires infinite patience, since each part of the flower is made with a specific mold. Thousands of precious stones in delicate shades evoking every detail of the flower: corolla, petal and stem. Born from the dextrous hands of genuine artists, La Rose and La Tulipe celebrate the ideal blend of beauty and precision. Alongside the time-honored skills of hand-crafted gem-setting, Jaeger-LeCoultre has created two unique and remarkably inventive techniques: snowsetting and rock-setting. In the former, the tiniest diamonds nestle against each other to merge elegantly into watch cases. Meanwhile,

rock-setting serves to highlight the radiance of the precious stones while entirely covering the material below. Revealed by the gem-setters of the manufacture, these techniques are writing a whole new chapter in the history of the JaegerLeCoultre workshops: one dedicated to achieving a level of purity so elevated that it fades into the background, giving pride of place to sheer pristine beauty.

INNOVATION

technological innovations by Massimiliano Pantieri

Ulysse Nardin packed no less than 10 technological innovations into the lubricant-free concept watch dubbed InnoVision to outline the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision on the future of mechanical watchmaking, and confirm its capacity to innovate in the strategic area of silicon. The independent Swiss watch manufacture is not new to trailblazing innovations. Ulysee Nardin has spent years working on and investing in new materials and their applications in watchmaking. The celebrated Freak model, debuted in 2001, with its entirely visible movement, was the 12

first watch to include a silicon escapement. In keeping with Ulysee Nardinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tradition of innovative technology, the Freak was the inspiration for several further developments: the first diamond balance-springs on prototypes; the Dual Ulysse, the first escapement composed of nickel-phosphorous and silicon; the first watch with a diamond escapement; and in 2007, the Freak DIAMonSIL, the first watch to grow polycrystalline diamond components on a silicon frame. The InnoVision builds on these advances. Two goals were

Innovation 1 - BARREL ON BALL BEARINGS. A 96 balls, non lubricated ball bearing guides the barrel both vertically and laterally. This solution is on the market since 2005. Innovation 2 - “DUAL ULYSSE” ESCAPEMENT. The “Dual Ulysse” escapement does not need any lubrication. Its reduced angle of lift (31 degrees) provides a great advantage. It is on the market since 2005. Innovation 3 - SILICIUM BEARINGS. Lubrication free bearings in silicium are fitted into the brass base plate. No oil recesses are necessary. Innovation 4 - DRIE PRECISION AND LOW FRICTION ADVANTAGES PUT TOGETHER. The escapement bridge made in solid silicium benefits from the high precision of the process. The good friction coefficient of silicium is another advantage. The movement designer is free to design holes very close to the exterior of the bridge as no jewels are required. Innovation 5 - THE REINFORCED SILICIUM BRIDGE. Due to the combination of 2 technologies DRIE and LIGA, Sigatec, Mimotec and Ulysse Nardin have produced a bi-material bridge which performs extremely well. The exclusive process stands for precision, silicium stands for low friction and nickel stands for mechanical toughness. Innovation 6 - EXPLOITING THE ELASTICITY OF SILICIUM. Ulysse Nardin developed the revolutionary shock absorber bearing into the balance wheel shaft which pivots in the centre of the silicium disc. The elastic spiral shaped silicium disc deforms itself when shocks arise and returns to its original position immediately after the shock has been absorbed. Innovation 7 - SILICIUM SPRING. The Silicium hairspring is an excellent solution and we have the know-how to produce it. Innovation 8 - ROLLER AND PIN. The roller and pin are made in one precise single component in the double sided DRIE process developed by Sigatec. Innovation 9 - STOPPER FORK AND SECURITY PIN OF THE “DUAL ULYSSE” ESCAPEMENT. The “Dual Ulysse” escapement « blocker » is a multifunctional element. Similarly to the anchor of the Swiss Anchor escapement, it bares a safety-pin which must be perfectly aligned. Thanks to the double side etching process created by Sigatec, this former multi part unit can be made as a single component not requiring any assembly or touch up. Innovation 10 - TWO LEVEL PROCESS. The escapement wheel and pinion are made in one single piece thanks to the two level etching process created by Sigatec. This new technology will seduce many movement designers all over the world.

foremost in the development of this concept watch: zero lubrication and improved accuracy. The removal of lubricants serves to increase accuracy and minimize maintenance, because oil and grease in the movements eventually will inhibit their efficiency. Now, with its lubricant-free InnoVision, Ulysse Nardin has reached a horological nirvana. The InnoVision model features innovations from a new era in watchmaking that eventually will be included in models offered to consumers. 14

WHERE BUSINESS BEGINS AND TRENDS ARE CREATED

BEST WISHES

RESOLUTIONS for HAPPINESS HOW TO HAVE MORE FUN IN 2008

’Tis the season for new year’s resolutions, but we’re not talking about setting a goal to lose weight or kick a bad habit. Stop looking for reasons to deny yourself and instead create more joy and fulfillment in your daily life. by Susan Robinson

Put fun on your “to-do” list Resolve to do something that makes you smile, not just on weekends or holidays, but every single day. — Watch a television comedy, or rent a funny film. — Dance to your favorite music. No partner necessary! — Sing in the shower, or turn up the volume on your car radio and belt out the hits. You’ll be pleased to find your commute seems shorter. — Enjoy a video game, a board game, or a friendly game of cards. — Round up your buddies for a night on the town. Have a blast and forget to act your age. Spend more time with those who make you happy What means the most to you: working long days at the office, or spending time with loved ones? Don’t have any regrets when it comes to those who are most important. — Take a break during the day to e-mail or call your sweetheart just to say, “I can’t wait to see you.” — Let your children know how important they are to you. Ask them about their day. Pay close attention to what they say; you might learn something. 16

— Call or visit your parents and grandparents often. Cherish your time with them. — Do you have a friend with whom you’ve lost touch? Give your friend a call and reconnect. It will be the highlight of the day for both of you. — Have a “play date” with your canine or feline companion. Animals crave our attention, and play equals love for many pets. Make time for yourself In your hectic schedule, try to find a few moments just for yourself. It can be hard to squeeze in “me time” without feeling guilty, but you’ll be re-energized for all aspects of your life. — Do something you’ve always wanted to do. Learn to play an instrument or speak another language. Take cooking classes or dance lessons. — During your lunch hour, recharge your batteries with a walk through a park or a little “retail therapy” at your favorite boutiques. — Lose yourself in a good book. Let the author lead you to another time and place. — Get a massage or manicure. Visit a salon or spa for a wide variety of relaxing treatments. — Create a bathtime retreat with luxurious product such as Fresh Brown Sugar Body Polish or Rice Sake Bath, or Laura Mercier Almond Coconut Milk Honey Bath. — Catch a quick nap. Indulge You only live once, as the saying goes, so don’t wait for a special day to spoil yourself. Plan a dream vacation, splurge on a designer suit or drink fine champagne — choose whatever appeals to you. The sky is the limit here. Sometimes the simple pleasures are the best. Buy fresh flowers for your home or office. Treat yourself to coffee at an outdoor café. If you are a chocoholic, resolve to eat fine chocolate every day. You don’t have to travel to Switzerland to get your fix: You can find gourmet goodies, such as Lindt, at your neighborhood market. Of course, at SwissMade Magazine, we can think of no better indulgence than a luxury Swiss watch. After all, a watch is something you use every day, and you will take pleasure in your purchase each time you look at your timepiece. Whether your style is modern, classic, glamorous or sporty, tailored or more casual, you can find a watch to suit your personality. Swiss watchmakers offer designs for everyone. Visit www.swissmadewatches.net for a list of official dealers, and browse their online catalogs. The only hard part will be deciding which timepiece you want the most!

BREGUET REF 3857 made in 1997 in only three examples to commemorate the 250th Anniversary of the birth of Abraham Louis Breguet (1747 1823). (Antiquorum’s Important Collectors watches)

MARKET

OLLECTORS CLAMOR FOR LIMITED-EDITION WATCHES by Beth Braverman

are drawn to watches made in small series, and we at Zenith have had very good success with our limited editions. The relatively small production of hand-made, auto-mechanical watches continues to be part of its attraction and the limited series is the pinnacle in terms of ultra-exclusivity.” Doron Basha, president and chief executive officer of Milus USA, says limited-edition watches charm watch connoisseurs who tend to own multiple watches. “Limited-edition watches have intrinsic value, like a piece of art,” he says. “Similar to the art world, the value of the watch increases because the item is limited. The value, of course,

ZENITH DEFY XTREME OPEN STEALTH LIMITED EDITION This model was also rewarded with the Public Prize at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie 2007. BREITLING for Bentley Mark VI complications 29.

depends greatly on the brand, manufacturing and demand.” Many watch collectors research their favorite watch brands and pre-order limited-edition watches. As a result, many limited edition watches sell out before they even hit store shelves. Breitling retailers, for example, often call their customers directly from the Breitling booth at Baselworld to place orders the minute they see the new collections, says Marie Bodman, president of Breitling USA. “These limited-edition collections offer something unique to our true collector,” Bodman says. “People who appreciate fine timepieces, especially the more complicated pieces like our new Breitling for Bentley Mark VI Complications 29 like knowing they have a piece they will most likely not see on anyone’s wrist.” Most limited edition watches have the lot number etched into the back of the case, reminding wearers of their inimitability, and generally promising a higher resale value than massproduced watches. The most exclusive limited-edition watches also feature exclusive movements or technological

innovations that watchmakers could never produce for a mass market. Hublot President Jean-Claude Biver says exclusivity represents a key component of luxury, in addition to culture, tradition and excellence. “Exclusivity is reached at its peak with unique pieces or limited series,” he adds. “No doubt, therefore, that limited series, as being part of the definition of luxury are going to attract people. But there is a risk in doing too many limited series. In that case, one is going to lose the exclusivity and, therefore, the interest.” Watchmakers agree that the allure of limited-edition watches directly reflects the power of the brand producing them. “The appeal of a limited-edition timepiece is directly linked to the notion of scarcity,” says Mounnia Mechbal, director of marketing for Audemars Piguet North America. “The notion of scarcity becomes even more desirable when it comes from an iconic brand with a very limited manufacturing capacity like Audemars Piguet.”

TRENDS

HARRY WINSTON Tourbillon Glissière laureate of the “Complicated Watch Prize” at the Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie 2007

platinum by Beth Braverman

As consumers continue to clamor for luxury watches, the interest in platinum—the most luxurious of metals—as a top choice in case material, has grown as well. The increased price tag of platinum watches only increases their appeal for well-heeled clients. “Price is not an object these days,” says Michael O’Connor, senior vice president of marketing and public relations at the Platinum Guild International. “Anyone who is looking for a quality timepiece or a quality piece of jewelry is looking at the components. If they’re looking for high style and a highquality movement, they have to look at the composition of the case as well. Consumers in the mindset where they are looking for the best quality in style and in workmanship want the best they can get, and that is always platinum.” Just as jewelers use platinum to display their finest diamonds and best-quality gemstones, it appears watchmakers select the purest of metals to showcase their very best work. The inherent rarity of platinum (it is 30 times rarer than gold), increases its appeal for those looking for something unique and different. Often platinum pieces appear in limited-edition collections, and in-the-know collectors often preorder pieces before they even hit retail store shelves. Platinum watches appeal to men who want to wear the luxury metal but might hesitate to purchase other types of jewelry for themselves. Reocgnizing this, classic watch brands like Rolex, Cartier and Piaget have unveiled a host of new fashion-forward platinum timepieces aimed at the styles man. In addition, some unexpected brands like Swiss Army, Tissot and American designer Alan Friedman have also introduced limited-edition platinum pieces. “I am seeing more and more platinum watches,” O’Connor adds. “The smarter brands are taking advantage of the platinum halo in jewelry and fashion.” The trend has found worldwide appeal among both male and femal e watch aficionados. Last year, the value of Swiss platinum watches exported increased a whopping 23 percent.

PIERRE KUNZ Tourbillon Metropolitan

VACHERON CONSTANTIN Patrimony Traditionnelle openworked perpetual calendar TISSOT T-Touch Platinum edition

Though many of those who buy platinum watches could afford diamond-laden pieces, the most popular versions are more subdued, with an emphasis on sophisticated movements instead of flash. Larger, round dials with detailed guillochet dials are popular among platinum designs. Platinum watches appeal to consumers interested who appreciate rare and special timepieces, says Paul Ziff, president of Zenith North America, which produces a small number of limited edition watches in platinum each year. ‘They are more into stealth wealth, and they don’t really care that the world knows how much they spent on their watch,” Ziff says. “They are more interested in the watch itself, its functions, design, history, than about showing it off.” Most platinum Zenith watches do not come in other materials. “If someone wants a very special watch, that specific model may only be available in platinum, which serves to further set it apart from other watches,” Ziff says. “It is the top rare metal used in some of our most unique and most expensive watches.” 24

HUBLOT Big Bang Platinum Mat

RICHARD MILLE RM012 “Golden Hand” Grand Prix Prize

EXTRAORDINARY watches

by Massimiliano Pantieri

AWARDS The prize-giving ceremony of the 7th Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix took place on 14th November at the Grand Théâtre in Geneva. Lit up by the famous Zurich-based artist Gerry Hofstetter, the Grand Théâtre shone in radiant splendour to welcome the 1500 or so guests attending the ceremony. Climbing the steps were some of the biggest names in the Swiss watch industry, along with representatives of the international press and several well-known collectors. After the welcome speech by Mrs Sandrine Salerno, Administrative Councillor of the City of Geneva and CoChairwoman of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, the audience viewed a 3D film presenting the multiple facets of Geneva the watchmaking city. The show continued with the prize-giving ceremony itself, hosted by Genevan barrister Christian Luscher, actress and international TV presenter Lolita Morena, along with famous watch journalist Grégory Pons, member of the jury and its spokesman for the evening. The “Golden Hand” Grand Prix Prize, the most prestigious of all, was awarded to the RM012 watch, by Richard Mille. The latter received the trophy created by internationally renowned artist Roger Pfund. The Special Jury Prize went to the Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque watch, by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Meanwhile, Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor SA) received the Best Watchmaker Prize. Moreover, the Public Prize was awarded to Zenith for the Defy Xtreme Open Stealth watch. Among the voters, three winners drawn by lot received one of three watches provided by Chopard, Montblanc and Franc Vila. Finally, as every year, a prize rewarded the best first-year student at the Geneva Watchmakers’ School. Bastien Anderes was presented with a magnificent watch-tool case gifted by the Montblanc brand, as well as an internship within the Manufacture. In accordance with what has now become a well-established tradition, the laureates are invited to donate one example of the prize-winning watch to the Watch and Enamelling Museum of the City of Geneva, in order to enrich its collection. Pierre-François Unger, State Councillor of the Canton of Geneva and Co-Chairman of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, brought the ceremony to a fitting close with an eloquent speech recalling the inestimable importance of the watch industry for the city of Geneva. Then it was time for a cocktail that was duly savoured by the numerous guests, followed by a splendid gala dinner held in the beautiful foyer of the Grand Théâtre and attended by the heads of the major watch brands, jury members as well as official guests.

DESIGN WATCH PRIZE Millenary Watch with Deadbeat Seconds Audemars Piguet

MEN’S WATCH PRIZE Observatoire Kari Voutilainen

OUTSIDE OF COMPETITION (laureate of the “Golden Hand” Grand Prix Prize in 2006) FP Journe Centigraphe

LADIES’ WATCH PRIZE Ballon Bleu Cartier

JEWELLERY WATCH PRIZE One Million $ BB Hublot

SPECIAL JURY PRIZE Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque Jaeger-LeCoultre

LIMITED EDITION

Cartier

ballon bleu

Photo: Franck Dieleman © Cartier 2007

A promise of a new horology planet. The Ballon bleu de Cartier watch is round on the top and round underneath, but if you look closer, you’ll see that its shape is somewhat more complex: a watch that seems to fit the wrist weightlessly, as if the two were already acquainted. Masculine? Feminine? Cartier plays with the shapes. An exclusive detail in blue Close up, the Ballon bleu de Cartier watch surprises. The winding mechanism is decorated with a sapphire cabochon, around which the dial orbits, and is more imposing than ever before due to a precious metal protective arch. The art of displacement, the art of rupture With soft curves reminiscent of a pebble and a case that is rounded on both sides, the style is somewhere between classic and futuristic. The glass magnifies the numbers and distorts time. The Roman numerals, displaced by the winding mechanism, stray from their usual path. A very private circle for House of Cartier experts The guilloche dial, the sword-shaped hands, the links of solid gold or solid brushed steel for the bracelet…At first glance, the latest model from the House of Cartier joins Cartier’s horology galaxy of time, with one exception. The odyssey of the invisible Ballon Bleu de Cartier? There is something unfamiliar about the name, a promise of a new horology planet. With its diffracted roundness, extra-blue winding mechanism, and elliptical profile, the Ballon bleu de Cartier watch draws a line between past and future, between what we know and what we would like to know about the universe and time. A watch satellite, whose sending into orbit Cartier has entrusted to six comic book writers. Because reading time is synonymous with dreaming, travelling, as if in an imaginary bubble. Seven Ninth Art writers for an odyssey album, a collective work, to be followed from one story to the next: a voyage through time for Moebius/Jean Giraud; bizarre thoughts around a blue stone for Glen Baxter; a tale of time through the interpretation of a Shakespeare sonnet for Lorenzo Mattotti, etc. A harmonic piece of work that also includes creations by Schuiten, Taniguchi, Floc’h and Burns.

ÂŠBeau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne

sm TASTE

Swiss Wine SELECTION 2007

Whet

your appetite

by Susan Robinson

ÂŠphoto by ST/swiss-image.ch

or contemporary, classic or sporty — you can find a diamond timepiece to fit your personality. For red wines, the famous Pinot Noir is the primary grape and is found in all winemaking regions of Switzerland. Merlot, the Bordeaux variety that originated in France, has found a second home in the Ticino region. For these full-bodied wines, only a bold men’s timepiece will do. Consider the ww.tc-Financial from Girard-Perregaux, the first chronograph to indicate world time zones as well as the hours when four stock markets — New York, London, Hong Kong and Tokyo — are open for business. Features include automatic mechanical movement; day/night contrast on the hour ring; a silver or anthracite dial with large numerals; a 43mm pink gold case; and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

GIRARD PERREGAUX ww.tc Financial

When it’s time for dessert, a sweet or semi-sweet wine such as Amigne, Pinot Gris or Sylvaner will be delicious with your final course. To accompany these late-harvest wines, what about a fun, flirty, feminine watch? A tribute to Parisian haute couture, the Logo model from Leonard has an easy-to-use interchangeable strap system. Straps are offered in printed fabric, satin-finished silk, white leather and gray fur. To add even more exuberance, the case and pink dial are set with 75 diamonds. Ooh-la-la, indeed. Now that you have sampled some of Switzerland’s finest wines and timepieces, feel free to experiment with your own pairings. Bon appetit!

EVENTS

34 ÂŠ images courtesy Chopard

C HOPARD & CATE BLANCHETT Chopard proudly bejeweled actress Cate Blanchett on the red carpet as she resumes her character Elizabeth in The Golden Age, sequel to the Academy award nominated film Elizabeth I. Whilst wearing Chopard at Cannes Film Festival this year, Cate Blanchett fell in love with some Chopard jewels and decided to use them in the sequel as it resembled the renowned period style, yet had the desired contemporary twist. As an ensemble to the breathtaking costumes several pieces from Chopard’s High Jewellery collection were used and such was the attention to detail, that Chopard altered earring clasps to uphold the style of the day. The pieces featured in the film included a pink coral rose broche with diamonds, which in several scenes is worn in Elizabeth’s signature mountainous hair. Other pieces include an elaborate pink tanzanite necklace and earrings set, a dominant multicoloured sapphire necklace and a pink coral and ruby multi strand necklace set on rose gold. Chopard prides itself on the affiliation it has with the film industry, including the partnership with Cannes Film Festival which this year celebrated it’s 10th year, as well as dressing numerous celebrities for Red Carpet events and Film Premiers. It is a great honour for Chopard to see their contemporary pieces interpreted in the dedicated period style and to be involved in such a prestigious project.

Following the Washington, DC premiere of “Lions for Lambs,” the film’s star and celebrated director, Robert Redford, signed a special Piaget Altiplano timepiece which was then presented to the USO (United Service Organization) by Larry Boland, President of Piaget North America. The watch, a Piaget classic, is crafted from 18K yellow gold and features the company’s ultra-thin in-house movement, crocodile strap and matching gold ardillon buckle. It will be auctioned off later this year to raise valuable funds to support the USO’s work on behalf of US troops and their families around the world.

Robert Redford and Madeleine Albright, Robert Redford and Piaget President Larry Boland, Katie Holmes and Tom Cruise (photo credit: Getty Images for Piaget)

R OBERT REDFORD TEAMS

UP WITH PIAGET TO BENEFIT THE USO AT THE WASHINGTON PREMIERE OF LIONS FOR LAMBS

The evening marked a continuation of Piaget’s longstanding commitment to cinema and the arts. Joining Mr. Boland and Mr. Redford for the premiere was co-star Tom Cruise and his dazzling wife Katie Holmes. The Hollywood superstars mixed with Washington’s elite, including House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, former Secretary of State Madeleine Albright, George Stephanopoulos, Linda Carter and her husband Robert Altman. Following the premiere guests proceeded to a private dinner at The Ritz Carlton’s grand ballroom where a jazz band played well into the night.

C UERVO Y SOBRINOS

AT THE TOUR CLASICO DE ESPAÑA The creator of fine watches with “a Latin soul and a Swiss heart,” Cuervo y Sobrinos is the driving force behind the Tour de España-Portugal, the premier classic cars race in southern Europe. An international competition, the IX Tour Clásico de España in 2007 started from Portugal for the first time. Beginning October 21 in the city of Vilamoura (Algarve-Portugal), it continued through Andalusia (south of Spain) and reached the cities of Jerez, Huelva and Sevilla, ending October 26. The drivers vied on 13 special routes and three circuit competitions: Monteblanco, Ascari (Ronda) y Jerez. Approximately 100 drivers from around the world were at the race with their famous cars: Alfa Romeo, Lancia, Ferrari, Porsche, Jaguar, TVR and Aston Martin. Cuervo y Sobrinos participated in the race with a 1959 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce, driven by Marzio Villa, chairman of the company. Villa and his co-driver placed seventh. The winning team was the couple Rafael and Carlota Serratosa of Spain, driving a VTR Griffith. For the IX Tour, Cuervo y Sobrinos — the major sponsor of the competition — produced a timepiece with a unique 36

feature: a reproduction of the Tour itinerary on the dial. This watch was specially made for the participants. Cuervo y Sobrinos also created a limited edition model to commemorate the 2007 race. This magnificent timepiece is a classic two-counter chronograph but — because of the special red color combination on the dial — also possesses a unique sporty touch consistent with the character of the event. Because of the growing success of Cuervo y Sobrinos on the world market, the Swiss brand decided to invite this year an international delegation composed of more than 70 clients and selected journalists from the United States, Japan, Hong Kong and Switzerland. The guests had the chance to follow the competition and enjoy the famous Andalusia region. With Cuervo y Sobrinos at the wheel of the Tour Clásico, the competition has reached a high level. At the same time, the race has expanded its identity and now is synonymous with style and elegance, values that are perfectly in line with the brand.

Sharone Stone host of amfAR

SOCIAL

CINEMA AGAINST AIDS de Grisogono co-sponsor of amfAR’s evening in Rome

After the dinner-shows that have been organised at the Cannes Film Festival since 1993 and loyally attended by film stars every year, Rome now has its own event, “Cinema Against Aids”. For the first time in Italy amfAR, presided over by Sharon Stone, organised a big gala evening together with an auction on Friday 26th October 2007 at the Spazio Etoile in Rome to raise money for AIDS research. A number of film stars and celebrities from the world of fashion attended. Sofia Coppola, actresses Mira Sorvino, Asia Argento, Valeria Golino and her actor friend Riccardo Scamarcio, the princess and French actress Clotilde Courau as well as her husband Prince Emmanuel de Savoie among others accepted the invitation to this charity event. After welcoming the VIPS on the Red Carpet the evening started at the Spazio Etoile with a cocktail party followed by a dinner and an auction before continuing at the Palazzo Fendi. As co-sponsor de GRISOGONO auctioned a pair of white gold earrings set with 178 11-carat amethysts, 68 3.95-carat pink sapphires, 120 9.35-carat orange sapphires and 44 0.50-carat white diamonds that went for the sum of

55’000 USD. Over a million dollars were collected during the “Cinema Against Aids” evening in Rome and will be invested in fighting AIDS. amfAR – American Foundation for Aids Research - has donated over 260 million dollars to research programmes against HIV since 1985. By becoming co-sponsor of amfAR’s “Cinema Against Aids” event for the first time, de GRISOGONO once again affirms its commitment to fighting the AIDS virus. Fawaz Gruosi, chairman and founder of the House of Fine Jewellery and Watch making based in Geneva, has already on several occasions shown his involvement in this good cause, one that is very close to his heart. Faway Gruosi was guest of honour in the 6th “Enduring Vision” event organised by the Elton John Aids Foundation in New York on the 25th September of this year. He also took part in the “Dîner de la mode” (Fashion dinner) for Sidaction (initiative to fight AIDS) in January 2007. Finally Mr Gruosi was photographed alongside 74 other key figures for the book “Le Fil Rouge” published by Sidaction in November, the proceeds of which will be given to various AIDS prevention programmes and programmes to help sick people.

sm ART

ABCD EFGHIJK LMNOP QRSTUV WXYZ Helvetica 50 years of

by Michael C. Neal

The design of the Swiss originated typeface Helvetica is not unlike the mother country itself – neat, clear, neutral, and modern. In celebration of Helvetica’s 50th anniversary, the Museum of Modern Art in New York City is holding an exhibition of Helvetica – the first typeface ever acquired for a MoMa collection. The exhibit includes posters, signage, and other graphic material demonstrating Helvetica’s diversity and why it’s referred to as the official typeface of the twentieth-century. The exhibit was organized by Christian Larsen, a curatorial assistant at MoMa museum and it pays homage to Helvetica’s ubiquity with an installation of 25 works that feature Helvetica typeface. The collection is on display in the Philip Johnson 38

Architecture and Design Gallery of the museum and includes original lead forms of the typeface from 1956-57 as well as a 1970 New York City Subway map designed by Massimo Vignelli. Also included in the exhibit are posters, signage, and graphic material such as the album covers for popular bands Massive Attack (Blue Lines, 2001) and Sonic Youth (SYR1: Anagram, 1997). Helvetica, which is a Latin word for Switzerland, was created in 1957 by Swiss font designers Max Miedinger and Edouard Hoffman at the Haas Type Foundry in Münchenstein, Switzerland. It was Miedinger who was commissioned at the time to develop an updated typeface by the Haas foundry director. His original name for the typeface, Neue Haas Grotesk, was eventually changed in 1961 to the

] 1

B P}* ) Z Image courtesy of typo graphic illustration www.ni9e.com/typo_illus.html

Image courtesy of Swiss Dots

aforementioned, when the Haas foundry began marketing the font to the international market. A special feature as part of the Museum of Modern Art exhibit is an excerpt of a 2007 documentary titled Helvetica. Director Gary Hustwit captures in high-definition examples of Helvetica in everyday urban spaces, including those in New York: the ‘Do Not Lean on Doors’ stickers found inside of city subway trains; a billboard advertisement for American Apparel in the popular neighborhood of SoHo; the TKTS discount Broadway tickets booth sign in Time Square; even two small labels above an anonymous, graffiti tagged doorway. The film, as with the museum’s exhibit, presents a visual study of Helvetica’s abundant use around the world, both in print and on screen, by advertisers, corporations, and even governments. It’s clear, crisp design of letters absolutely cuts through the static of everyday life in order to be both heard and understood – Swiss precision on the grandest of scale. And for that we have Mr. Miedinger and Mr. Hoffman to thank. “50 Years of Helvetica” is currently being exhibited by the Museum of Modern Art, in New York City, in the Philip Johnson Architecture and Design Gallery until March 31, 2008. Image courtesy of Swiss Dots

6 6 TimeZone

sm icelinkwatch.com

LOS ANGELES GENEVA DUBAI MOSCOW HONG KONG ABU DHABI

C U LT U R E

Max by Jaylyn Burger

Frisch Frisch returned to school in 1936 at ETH Zurich to follow his father’s path as an architect and later opened his own firm. Intermittently, he served with the Swiss army during World War II, recording experiences in his journal later released as Blätter au dem Brotsack. For 12 years, Frisch provided the Swiss public with original architectural design. His most wellknown project was a public swimming bath in central Zurich. Despite his limited amount of free time as a business owner, Frisch still dedicated time to cultivate his first art. Unfortunately, several attempts to publish both novels and plays failed miserably, including his book, Jürg Bernhardt. Finally in 1949, Frisch’s play When the War Was Over persuaded critics to commend his talents and recognize from the general public as a serious and gifted artist. A grant from the Rockefeller Trust served as the vehicle of Frisch’s year-long stay in the United States in 1951. Undoubtedly, his trip inspired the later work and acclaimed 1954 novel, Stiller. The story depicts a gentlemen’s struggle to prove his identity when incarcerated for crossing the border with a fake passport. However, the protagonist’s story is brought into question by Frisch towards the climax of the

MAX FRISCH Hanno Edelmann Graphitzeichnung, 1976 ©Michael Edelmann impressum http://www.portraitkunst.com/ DER SCHRIFTSTELLER MAX FRISCH Varlin (Willy Guggenheim) 1958

work. Ultimately, he forces the reader to consider a different paradigm than that supplied by the narrator. After the success of Stiller, Frisch lived solely on the money from the sale of his architectural firm. During this time, he directed his undivided attention to writing. Homo Faber, one of his most famous books, resulted from this driven time period. In a straightforward and unromantic style, Frisch presents a calculated and meticulous UNESCO engineer forced to reconsider his view of the world after an emergency aircraft landing in a Mexican desert. Throughout the story, Faber suffers continuous hardships, including coping with his friend’s suicide, accepting the death of the woman he loves, and falling ill with stomach cancer. These events leave Faber questioning his life’s decisions, but ironically the situation provides no opportunity for change. Frisch’s early work can be classified as conservative, but after World War II he began to address contemporary issues with an open mind and passive attitude. In 1958 he was awarded the prestigious Georg-Buchner Prize, the same year he met Austrian writer Ingeborg Bachman. While living in Rome with Bachman, Frisch wrote his most famous play, Andorra. This

piece questioned the racial prejudices and conformism of a society with a growing intolerance of Jews. In 1965, Frisch returned to Switzerland, but did not stay long, as his wanderlust inspired him to visit China, Mexico, Cuba, the Middle East, Israel, the USSR, and Japan. The Swiss author died of cancer on April 4, 1991. Frisch’s many accolades include the Friedenspreis des Deutschen Buchhandels, the Heinrich-Heine-Preis, and Jerusalem Prize for the Freedom of the Individual in Society. He also was venerated with honorary degrees from the University of Marburg, Bard College, City University of New York, University of Birmingham, and the TU Berlin. He is credited, along with Fredrick Dürenmatt, as solidifying Germanspeaking Switzerland’s place in the literary world. Frisch once was quoted as saying, “I l live, like every real man, in my work.”

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Cho pard

709 Madison Haute Joaillerie Collection

In celebration of the opening of the International Flagship Boutique at 709 Madison Avenue, an exclusive Haute Joaillerie Collection has been created by Caroline GruosiScheufele, Co-President and Design Director of Chopard. The collection celebrates design, creativity and elegance inspired by Caroline Gruosi-Scheufeleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s frequent international travels and visits to New York. She has chosen to develop a vibrant collection using a rainbow of different stones from around the world to reflect the ever changing, colorful and multi-facetted city of New York. She has selected stones from Sri Lanka, Thailand, South Africa, Brazil, India, and Australia to be hand-set by artisans at the Chopard workshops in Switzerland. The treasure of the Haute Joaillerie Collection is a stunning and elaborate necklace and earring set which consists of an intricate collaboration of square-cut and brilliantcut diamonds drenched with 13 large cascading pear drop emeralds. The collection also includes an elaborate pink sapphire and diamond necklace with matching fan shaped earrings; a ruby rose set choker on ornate black diamonds; a leaf effect black diamond necklace with amethysts and oval shaped red sapphires; long, ornate amethyst cabochons and black diamond earrings; and a contemporary white pearl and diamond necklace. 44

BREGUET Les Groseilliers fine jewelry collection HARRY WINSTON Diamond de Neige Tiara

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Winter Charme

CARTIER Caresse d’orchidées 18-carat white gold and diamonds

H AU T E

De Grisogono

XMAS TIME !

WIN TER FAS HION TRE NDS

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by Beth Braverman

Even before snow begins falling and the temperatures start dropping, fashion signals the shift into winter. This winter’s fashions have naturally evolved from last year’s, with fashion designers continuing to play with all-over texture and proportion, from sleek, skinny dresses to billowing, wide-belted tunics. The overarching theme in this year’s trends remains individuality, with fashion mavens taking their favorite aspects of each fad and making them their own. Here’s a primer on some of the hottest trends of the winter season:

VERSACE Eclissi HERMES Pele Mele Black leather sandal

Colors Metallics came to fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vanguard a few seasons ago, with shiny shoes, bags and belts accenting more muted apparel. This season, however, metallic items take center stage with shimmering shirts, dresses and jackets in a variety of styles for both day and night. Rich jewel-toned colors like bright purple, deep red and emerald green best compliment metallic pieces, which appear in bronze, gold and silver. As for neutrals, gray has dominated recent runways, appearing in jackets, shoes, tights and belts. Fashionforward designers like Michael Kors, Badgley Mischka and BCBG Max Azaria all dipped heavily into gray hues when selecting the palettes for recent fashion shows. Essential pieces Fashion has continued to focus on dresses this season, following several years of interest in the instant outfits. This seasonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s versions feature empire waists, billowing sleeves and embellishment like sequins or embroidery. Metallic, disco-inspired dresses look perfectly modern when paired with tights and ankle boots. For more casual looks, skinny jeans remain important, especially when they appear stuffed into knee-high boots and paired with more voluminous tops or embellished tunics. Cardigans have also emerged as must-haves for the season. Cropped versions in jewel-tones will prove extremely versatile. Materials In one form or another, knits appeared on most designer runways this season. Appearing in stretch dresses, chunky sweaters and thin, layer-worthy tops, the cozy trend offers versatility that makes in accessible for any woman. Long knit

C H O PA R D I S S I M O – T H E R E V O LV I N G S I G N AT U R E R I N G

tops look fabulous with leggings or skinny jeans. After several years of backlash from animal-right activists, fur—either real of faux—has returned to its longtime place as a fashion must-have for winter. Lavish stoles, hats and boleros offer a chic compliment to cocktail dresses or metallic tops. Brocade jackets and tops place an emphasis on texture, which represents a key component in current fashion trends. Such pieces add character to a more minimal outfit. Style themes The most fashion-forward women have taken an interest in their husbands’ closets this season, breaking out menswearinspired outfits with a decidedly feminine bent. The look shows up in tailored vests, shirtdresses and trench coats. Menswear-inspired plaids emerge in everything from jackets to boots. Fashionistas have also taken a look back at previous fashion eras when putting together this season’s outfits. But instead of taking from just one era, women have poached a bit from each: leggings from the 1980s, platform shoes from the 1970s and mini-skirts from the 1960s. Winter fashion also has a decidedly glamorous feel to it this season, aided by luxurious accessories like cocktail rings and furs, and sleek prints.

HERMES Lindy Black natural crocrodile leather bag ICELINK 6 Timezone

Accessories No contemporary fashion maven can leave the house without the accessories that provide the finishing touch to any outfit. Jewelry remains the most important accessory of the season, with layered necklaces, hoop earrings, cuff bracelets and cocktail rings standing out as must-have items. Designers continue to use belts to play up the silhouettes of their creations. Both wide and thin belts will work this season. For casual wear, big bags continue to reign supreme, with slouchy leather handbags remaining important. For evening, embellished clutches will compliment most looks. Animal print bags offer an unanticipated punch.

GREUBEL FORSEY TOURBILLON 24 SECONDES INCLINÉ Greubel Forsey capitalizes upon the speed of rotation and the inclination of the regulator to harness the influence of gravity on the regulating organ. A wide opening right through the dial and plate and a lateral window, facilitate visual access to the high-speed 25° inclined Tourbillon, which seems to enjoy complete liberty of movement free of any gear-trains.

OMEGA DEVILLE HOUR VISION To celebrate the launch of its exclusive in-house manufacture calibres 8500/8501, the 41 mm case of the De Ville Hour Vision adopts four sapphire glass apertures on the sides of the case, as well as the more traditional sapphire glass case back, fill the heart of the watch with light showcasing the mechanical pedigree and the beautiful details of calibre.

BVLGARI ASSIOMA TOURBILLON MULTICOMPLICATION SQUELETTE The overgenerous watch features both a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon. This new Assioma model comes sheathed in platinum case that touts double sapphire crystals. Its tourbillon movement employs the in-house Caliber BVL 416 with 64 hours of power reserve made entirely in house. Only twenty pieces will be put to production.

HARRY WINSTON PROJECT Z4 Harry Winston’s ideal traveler’s watch is the fourth in the Project Zalium series, launched by Ronald Winston in 2004 as “watches of finesse and force.” The 44mm case accommodates two separate hour-and-minute dials for your business and leisure time. The associated graphic displays of daytime and nighttime, for each time zone, reveal, at a glance, when to place calls around the globe.

DA VINCI PERPETUAL CALENDAR Kurt Klaus invented the ingenious perpetual calendar of the Da Vinci more than 20 years ago. The gifted watchmaker has been working and developing products for IWC Schaffhausen for 50 years. A special edition of the Da Vinci is being produced in his honour, housed in the new tonneau-shaped case and limited to 600 watches.

HERMES CLIPPER Built to cruise smoothly and accurately through the oceans of time, Clipper chronographs are equipped with chronometer-certified mechanical self-winding movements – the ultimate guarantee of reliability. Before receiving the rating certificate from the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), each movement has undergone fifteen days of ultra-strict testing in five positions and at three different temperatures.

MILUS HERIOS “TRIRETROGRADE SECONDS SKELETON” The strong, definitive presence of the powerful square case forms the framework for the exquisitely designed time display. The lacquered dial background is distinctive black, pure white or brown and stylised Arabic numerals stretch out gracefully to the edges of the case frame. A dazzling highlight comes from the 4.75- carat brilliant-cut diamonds adorning the extravagant timepiece in 18K white gold.

DEWITT HAUTE JOAILLERIES TOURBILLON Form and substance are inseparable within the rarified spheres of the Watchmaking Art. The patented Tourbillon Différentiel®, winner of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in the innovation category, play on contrasts by marrying the colours of the open-worked dial revealing the subtle intricacies of the mechanism with the pristine purity of 151 diamonds totalling more than 17 carats.

PIAGET MAGIC HOUR This watch plays with time and conventions. Three ways to be worn, three styles to be shown, three moods to be expressed… For the very first time, thanks to an invisible mechanism developed by Piaget, a timepiece is endowed to be three watches in one.Thirty-six diamonds light up the opulent elliptical gem-set bezel that turns above a delicately guilloché-patterned dial.

RAYMOND WEIL SHINE CHOCOLATE Sprinkled with full-cut white diamonds, the watch plays on the nuances of light and matter, offering a contrast between powerful steel, shimmering diamonds and deep-toned chocolate, forming an ensemble of elegance and distinction. The contemporary boldness of this new colour provides an extra touch of softness and sensuality; as do the polished steel hands marking the passing of time with a gleaming caress.

BÉDAT & CO RÉFÉRENCE 388 The tonneau-shaped case of Ref. 388 is the largest in the N°3 collection. It is softly curved for a perfect fit on the wrist. The bezel, central dial zone and case sparkle with white diamonds, while the dial is clothed in mother-of-pearl and frosted Roman numerals. Nicknamed “Everlasting Snow” at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, this is a gem loaded with ice.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN 1972 CAMBRÉE In reinterpreting this historical model, Vacheron Constantin is offering today’s women, always on the lookout for a rare, precious and exclusive object, renewed proof of its attachment to ladies’ collections. Crafted in 18-carat white or pink gold, clothing a smaller and exquisitely cambered case with dimensions better suited to dainty wrists, the new 1972 collection vividly embody the brand’s concern for refinement and perfection.

BREGUET CLASSIQUE 5335 GRANDE COMPLICATION TOURBILLON MESSIDOR the classique tourbillon messidor design salutes the master’s ingenious invention which he patented, according to the french revolutionary calendar, on 7 messidor year ix (june 26, 1801). driven by a handwound movement and lodged in a spacious-looking carriage, this uncluttered tourbillon design adds its distinctive character to the watch’s already fascinating personality.

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT HEART BEAT MANUFACTURE AUTOMATIC MOONPHASE-DATE SILICIUM The moon inside a window at twelve o’clock on the dial of this model progresses through its various phases against the background of a night-blue sky. The aperture is bordered by the 31 numbers of the hand-type date display, exactly the way this type of indicator was arranged on classic watch models dating from the 1940’s and 1950’s.

MAURICE LACROIX PONTOS DÉCENTRIQUE GMT This outstanding design is immediately fascinating: As its name suggests, all the functions of the Pontos Décentrique GMT are arranged off-centre. Even the hours, minutes and seconds are not indicated from the centre in the usual way, but in a discreetly designed circle segment with index marks for the hours which is slightly shifted towards 10 o’clock.

RADO CERAMICA CHRONOGRAPH LIMITED EDITION The new Ceramica Chronograph restyled by Jasper Morrison features new dials and proportions. The three counters, as always like three subtle random comets, have been redesigned and highlighted in gold, as all the other details on the dial. The minute indexes emphasize the highly graphic character of the model and form a rounded square towards the corners.

CHANEL J12 LIMITED EDITION The Chanel J12 watch collection offers a perfect balance between classic design and the latest high-tech materials such as ceramic. For both men and women, these luxury designer watches are sure to delight. The Joaillerie collection offers jewellery watches encrusted with diamonds and rubies, achieving the ultimate in haute couture.

TAG HEUER GRAND CARRERA A new premium collection of superlatively sophisticated timepieces inspired by the spirit of modern GT cars. The new GRAND CARRERA embodies TAG Heuer’s unique motor-racing heritage and passion for Avant-Garde design and technologies. Amongst its features is the ingenious GT car engine-inspired Rotating System.

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST SPECIAL EDITION Daring compositions and traditional craftsmanship converge in this jeweled creation by Rolex. The Datejust Special Edition has an 18ct white gold case and features a bezel set with either black sapphire or diamond baguettes. The watch strap combines stingray leather (shagreen) and rubber with a sparkling of diamonds and a folding clasp.

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PRECIOUS MOMENTS The Limelight Party talking-piece collection by Piaget celebrates the festive spirit. So what could be better for the upcoming festive season? Inspired by the codes of gaming, the rhythm of vinyl records and the glitter of spangles, this watch and jewellery collection highlights the creative genius and the expertise of the House of Piaget, illustrated here by sparkling rings and necklaces. Distinctly classic and yet equally intriguing, a deep blue 35-carat sapphire accentuates the mystery of a resolutely glamorous woman. Thanks to an ingenious secret mechanism, this necklace can be worn demurely around the neck, or daringly nestling in a plunging neckline. The spellbound gaze is inexorably drawn along a row of diamonds tipped by a pear-cut sapphire. The matching earrings underscore the understated elegance of this set. The same contrast between colour and diamonds is featured on a white gold ring that is subtly enhanced by the intense pink of a 25-carat tourmaline. The setting is distinguished by a refined sequence of shades created by pink sapphires along with brilliant and princess-cut diamonds. The sensual and magical emerald evokes the fever on the gaming tables. On this stunning jewellery set, the rows of diamonds, interspersed with playing card symbols, surround a rare 26-carat Colombian emerald, enhanced by 17 gemstones of the same water, to adorn a dazzling neckline. Exceptional jewellery shimmers in the magic of festive eveningsâ&#x20AC;Ś Glittering gems designed by Piaget to delight the entrancingly seductive women who are the life and soul of the party.

LĂ&#x2030;ON HATOT Perles de Pluie Necklace with its pure, sensual lines forms a delicate pastel composition. White gold, Akoya pearls, pink opals and diamonds give life to this scene born under a gentle shower of rain. PIAGET Limelight Party Platinum necklace set with 170 brilliant-cut diamonds, 1 cushion-cut emerald and 17 emeralds.

HISTORY

175 years of elegance in watchmaking by Massimiliano Pantieri

With a technical and aesthetic heritage that is second to none, Longines celebrates its 175th anniversary in 2007. This jubilee provides an ideal opportunity to put into perspective the creation and know-how Longines has developed during its rich watchmaking history. To mark the anniversary, Longines presented at BaselWorld its new sports collection as a hommage to the brand’s long sports history and then in September presented the following two timepieces during festivities at the Cité du Temps in Geneva, to represent during this special year the three pillars of the brand: Traditions, Sport and Elegance. The Longines Master Collection Retrograde — an exclusive man’s timepiece exemplifying Longines’ rich horological heritage and pursuit of elegance. This new watch, which encloses an automatic mechanical calibre developed especially for Longines by ETA, is the flagship model of a collection devoted to highlighting the horological traditions of the firm. 175 diamonds for 175 years — To commemorate this occasion, Longines designed a special women’s watch that bears witness to the company’s aesthetic heritage and historic penchant for elegance. Produced in a limited series 64

of 175 pieces, this jewel-watch is adorned with 175 diamonds that celebrate the brand’s anniversary. “At the Heart of an Industrial Vocation” — As part of the 175th anniversary retrospective, including an exhibition on the many interesting facets of the brand, Longines has published a volume on the numerous watch movements developed by the company between the first half of the 19th century and the present day. Written by Patrick Linder, a young researcher specializing in the history of watchmaking, this volume analyzes the evolution of the ins and outs of the manufacturing of watch calibres through the major phases in the development of the industry. This book presents and richly illustrates a survey of little-known facets of Longines’ industrial adventure. The start of an epic In 1832, Auguste Agassiz entered the world of time by joining forces with an existing «comptoir» selling and making watches in Saint-Imier, a small village in a valley in the Swiss Jura. Proving himself skilled in both technical and commercial activities, he quickly took over the running of the firm that soon changed its name to Agassiz & compagnie. He created a sales network that led him to setting up contacts with distant markets, especially beyond the Atlantic. Forced by illness to abandon work, he gave the reins to his nephew, Ernest Francillon, who joined the comptoir’s activities in 1852. At the time, the firm simply coordinated the different tasks undertaken by artisans working from home, in line with the piecework organization typical of watchmaking in the Jura. In 1862, Francillon added his name to the firm and, as a visionary watchmaker, began considering how to improve the manufacture of timepieces. His conclusions led him to abandon the traditional production methods in favor of a new way. A new manufacturing process In 1867, Ernest Francillon built a factory on the right bank of the Suze at a place called «Les Longines» (literally «long meadows»), using the river’s waters to power it. He brought together under the same roof the different craftsmen who previously had worked for his comptoir from home, thus establishing a new way of organizing manufacturing. To increase the quality and regularity of his watches, Francillon adopted mechanical manufacturing processes and took on Jacques David, a young kinsman, to help him devise the tools and machines needed to improve the process. The factory now named «Longines» after the area was already the leading watch manufacturer in the region and experimented with and adapted the possibilities offered by mechanization. During the last quarter of the 19th century and into the early 20th century, the firm underwent strong development, confirming the industrial option chosen by Francillon. In the year it was constructed, the factory employed 40 workers; by 1911, it had more than 1,100, providing employment in a village that counted only 7,000 souls. At the same time, the firm expanded its sales network and

offered its timepieces throughout the world. Founded in Saint-Imier, Longines firmly established its presence there and played an essential role in the development of the town and surrounding region. In 2007, Longines remains in SaintImier as it pursues its commitment to watchmaking across the globe. Innovation beneath the winged hourglass The company’s various technical research projects undertaken within its factory have earned it so much acclaim abroad that Longines could claim the title of «the most awarded watch brand» at international exhibitions up to the Barcelona Exhibition of 1929, with no less than 10 Grands Prix. Faithful to its tradition for technical innovation, in 1969 Longines produced the first cybernetic quartz electronic wristwatch ever to be designed by a watch manufacturer’s in-house research facilities. Yet Longines’ innovative spirit extended far beyond purely horological technology. Owner of the oldest unchanged brand name still in business registered at what is now the World Intellectual Property organization, the company had by 1867 already adopted a logo, its winged hourglass, and the «Longines» brand, as symbols both of quality and as a defense against counterfeits. 66

Elegance is an attitude Longines’ timeless elegance rests on a rich aesthetic heritage, updated and expressed in a subtle mix of classicism and inventive refinement. Its present-day timepieces embody the best of a corporate history marked by many bold technical and styling advances conceived in its own design and manufacturing facilities, where a close eye always has been kept on the profile of its creations. Longines today: a truly Global Brand With a world-spanning vocation from the outset, Longines is proud to make its timepieces, and the historical values that come with them, available today in more than 130 countries. Precision, performance elegance, and sporting tradition: These fundamental virtues still govern every aspect of the activities Longines undertakes around the world through its product lines for men and women that show classic chic and yet contemporary style, its plethora of prestigious brand ambassadors and its timekeeping activities that underline an association with sport of nearly 130 years.

LONGINES Master Collection Retrograde

WELLNESS

luxurious healing in switzerland by Shabana Nather

Tamina Gorge, Heidiland ÂŠST/swiss-image.ch

their fondness for short “vacations” in Switzerland after which they would fly back home to preen at the adoring cameras, all dewy fresh and relaxed. Today, Switzerland’s thermal springs and spas continue to attract thousands of health travelers seeking rejuvenation for the body and mind. From fragrant soaks in the middle of a forest clearing to a whey bath for two that promises to leave skin feeling buttery soft, from chocolate and coffee laced delicious-enough-to-eat skin softening concoctions to the healing properties of natural stone, whatever the jaded international traveler desires, Switzerland will supply. So where do the slightly worn down of body and spirit head to for some much needed revitalizing? Beau Rivage Palace, Lausanne This grand dowager is as much historical landmark as it is a place to rest your head, and offers the most spectacular views of the Alps. The spa, Cinq Mondes is a relatively new addition, and with good reason. The owners spent a decade traveling the globe in search of the very finest in mind and body therapies before these appeared on the spa’s impressive menu. Built at a cost of $12 million, this 15,000 square foot spa boasts of eight treatment rooms, including Jacuzzis and steam rooms, and indoor and outdoor rectilinear pools. Victoria Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa, Interlaken Blessed with breathtaking views of the Jungfrau Mountains, the Victoria Jungfrau is tucked away in a slice of Switzerland that’s long beckoned visitors looking for some much needed R & R. The ESPA at the Victoria Jungfrau offers hot stone treatments and unique “time” ritual therapies that are different each time you have one because of the changing nature of your body. The day spa has an extensive selection of detoxifying, and healing therapies including special packages for couples, mothers and daughters and pregnant women. La Reserve, Geneva Set in 10 acres of elegantly laid out parkland on the shores of Lake Geneva, La Reserve manages to combine old world Swiss style charm with a contemporary attitude. Guests at the spa can unwind in a choice of seventeen treatment rooms while enjoying the pleasures of a hammam, a sun bed and the final flourish before you leave - a hair styling salon. The Kempinski Grand Hotel des Baines, St Moritz The St Moritz Spa sources its therapies from the healing

waters of the Mauritius spring – said to be the most healing in Europe – and has a range of natural skin and body products on offer that are derived from the wealth of natural and herbal flora local to the region. Clinic La Prairie, Clarens/Montreaux This legendary spa has seen some very illustrious guests walk in through its rather non descript doors to shed pounds, and be otherwise rubbed, massaged and pummeled into physical perfection. The Clinic La Prairie gained fame with its anti aging serum, and is more of a medical and health center than a spa.

Fairmont Le Montreaux Palace, Geneva Behind the spectacular Belle Époque façade of the Fairmont le Montreaux Palace lies the Willow Stream Spa, a 2000

Badrutt’s Palace Hotel

square meter wellness center that includes two swimming pools, a solarium and 10 treatment rooms that offer an innovative blend of Western therapies and ancient Eastern healing arts. Luxurious ultra exclusive VIP rooms include two massage beds, a salon and a private terrace. Leukerbad The beautiful Swiss resort town of Leukerbad is encircled on three sides by a 300 meter jagged rock wall. But it isn’t this spectacular natural beauty that visitors throng here to gawk at. It’s the region’s other famous natural wonder – its hot thermal waters that gush into 22 public and private pools around town at the rate of an astounding nearly 3.9 million liters a day. Public wellness centers abound while private packages are also available.

Our fitness centre. Corvatsch, Upper Engadine, GraubĂźnden

MySwitzerland.com Experience something totally natural again: skiing one of the longest runs in the world, for example, or carving turns on a perfectly groomed piste, or bashing the moguls. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find the biggest natural highs in our new Winter brochure, and at www.MySwitzerland.com. It is our pleasure to help plan your holiday. Call us: 00800 100 200 30 (freephone).

BEAUTY

SPA PRODUCTS WHEN ONLY THE BEST WILL DO by Susan Robinson

LA PRAIRIE Jeweled Skin Caviar Luxe Cream Limited Edition crystallized with Swarovski

In your quest to find the fountain of youth and wellness, treatments from a five-star spa are de rigueur. But if you don’t have time to travel to Switzerland, don’t worry; you can get the same benefits with at-home products. From head to toe, high-quality Swiss products are the perfect prescription for healthy skin and hair. If your skin is showing signs of aging due to stress, lifestyle or the change of seasons, give it an energy boost with La Prairie Skin Caviar Intensive Ampoule Treatment. Billed as “Swiss Rescue Therapy,” the six-vial regimen infuses cells with nutrients and enhances skin health and function. With patent-pending skin nova and DNA nano technologies, Juvedical DNA Skin Optimizer from Juvena fights aging not only in the area surrounding the cells but also within the nucleus. The cutting-edge ingredients protect the nucleus

and create an environment for cell renewal, helping your skin look noticeably younger. DNA Skin Optimizer is available in a serum and a cream, both with SPF 20. To combat dull, dry and brittle hair, Rausch offers Golden Millet Shine Spray, the newest product in the Herbal Hair Care System. Nourishing oils from millet, avocado and olive as well as phytokeratins condition, protect and strengthen the hair — without silicones or mineral oil. Apply after styling for smooth, lustrous and supple hair. For a “secret weapon” to protect the ends against splitting, arm yourself with Rausch Avocado Hair Tip Cream. Pure avocado oil and horsetail extract improve the hair’s structure, prevent splitting and condition the ends. To keep your body looking as good as your face, wrap yourself from feet to shoulders with Valmont Elixir Glaciers Votre

Corps for a sublime after-bath treatment. Gems and skinlifting agents enrich this concentrated cream and provide a contouring effect for firmer, smoother and younger-appearing skin. Apply generously; Elixir des Glaciers Votre Corps should be used within two to three months after purchase to preserve the properties of the ingredients. Now that your face, hair and body are gorgeous, don’t forget to give your hands some tender loving care. The skin of our hands is fragile and dries out easily. Furthermore, hands often are exposed to cleaning products as well as harsh weather conditions and harmful sun rays. These factors accelerate dehydration, resulting in premature aging of the hands. Mavala Repairing Night Cream for Hands is an intensive 30day cure with hyaluronic acid, allantoin, shea butter and silk amino acids. Apply nightly to revitalize cell renewal and aid moisture retention. Luxurious products are the ideal way to have a spa experience without leaving home. Light a candle, put on some relaxing music, pour a glass of wine and pamper yourself. You deserve it! Image courtesy ©Fairmont Le Montreux Palace

T h E va l u E o f Ti m E

La Habana 2007 “As seen today – the interior of Cuervo y Sobrinos`original boutique founded 1882” The allure of havana. 125 years of hisTory rediscovered Through swiss waTch making masTery Since 1882 cuervo y SobrinoS, a luxury brand known throughout the world, haS created their own line of watcheS in fabrication at la chaux-de-fondS (Switzerland). theSe timepieceS retain the vintage aeStheticS true to their original deSignS, while incorporating the beSt of modern SwiSS featureS and innovation.

cuervo y sobrinos via greina, 2 - ch-6901 lugano - Switzerland - phone +41 (0)91 921 27 73/74 - fax +41 (0)91 921 27 75 www.cuervoysobrinos.com - info@cuervoysobrinos.com

Espléndidos Retrograde

CHARITY

35 EXCEPTIONAL TIMEPIECES RAISE 2,756,500 AT AUCTION FOR RESEARCH ON DUCHENNE MUSCULAR DYSTROPHY

by Massimiliano Pantieri

BLANCPAIN “Ultra-Thin” Pièce Unique. PATEK PHILIPPE Ref 5712T “Nautilus Titanium”, Genève, Pièce Unique.

In the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, the Only Watch 07 charity auction of 35 unique timepieces took place on September 20th. First in series or prototypes, the 35 unique pieces raised the exceptional sum of euro 2,756,500 (USD 3’878’946, CHF 4’553’186). All proceeds from this sale, organized by Antiquorum, will help fund important medical Research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Yacht Show and founder of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy said: ”Sometimes talent comes from really wanting something. Only Watch has proven this to be true. Everyone who was involved in Only Watch 07 wanted to be a part of its unique energy and excitement. In this “second edition” of Only Watch, creativity, celebration, generosity and professionalism all joined together in an outstanding charity event that will benefit international research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The 2.7 million euros earned will allow the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies to continue to support ongoing research programs and to encourage new ones. Thanks to Only Watch, each new day brings us closer to finding a therapeutic treatment to relieve the suffering of children who have Duchene Muscular Dystrophy. From the bottom of my heart, I would like to thank: HSH Prince Albert II, who has sponsored and supported this event with great compassion; the watchmaking brands; the auction house Antiquorum; the Monaco Yacht Show; and all our partners. Only Watch has become a yearly engagement in the world of charity and Haute Horology. It is familiar

VACHERON CONSTANTIN “Malte Tourbillon Platinum” Pièce Unique.

and eagerly awaited by collectors the world over, and it is immensely beneficial. Therefore, it is with great pleasure that all the participants in Only Watch 07 join me in inviting you to attend the third Only Watch event, to be held in September 2009: ONLY WATCH 09 - season III.” More than 300 people attended the auction, including personalities such as Philippe Starck and Formula One driver Felipe Massa. Fierce bidding in the room competing with hundreds of bidders from all over the world via the Internet and over the telephone. This is the largest sum ever achieved by a charity event in Monaco. The most coveted watches were the Patek Philippe Ref 5712T Nautilus Tinanium (sold for 525,000 Euro); the Incognito 2008 by Dewitt and Jean-Michel Wilmotte(sold for 400,000 Euro) and the Richard Mille and Philippe Starck flyback chronograph (sold for 320,000 Euro).

DEWITT AND JEAN-MICHEL WILMOTTE “Incognito 2008” One-of-a-kind model. RICHARD MILLE AND PHILIPPE STARCK “An integral interpretation in titanium”, Piéce Unique.

MOTORS

TIME MACHINES

FERRARI’S MECHANICAL MASTERPIECES ARE HIGHLY SOUGHT-AFTER BY COLLECTORS – FOR THE ROAD AND FOR THE WRIST

by Noah Joseph

Enzo Ferrari, who insisted the car officially be called by its alphanumeric designation: 365 GTB/4. Popularized by the hit TV show Miami Vice, which featured a replica of the rarer Spider version before switching to the flamboyant sidestraked Testarossa, history has awarded the Daytona its rightful place as one of the greatest GTs of all time. . If the Daytona was a styling departure, the F40 was a complete revolution. Derived from the 288 GTO, the F40 was a direct application of the “form-follows-function” school of thought, dominated by gaping intakes and an enormous rear wing. The F40 hugged the ground like no car before it, was made primarily of exotic carbon-fiber and featured a twinturbo V8 that closely mirrored the F1 engines of the day. Built to celebrate the company’s 40th anniversary, the F40 was the last car Enzo himself saw to fruition before passing in 1988. Although it was succeeded by the F50 and then by the Enzo supercar, the F40 remains a performance benchmark to this day.

The latest Ferrari road car to be unveiled is the fastest in the company’s history, capable of lapping Ferrari’s private Fiorano test track quicker than any Prancing Horse before it. Based on the mid-engined F430, the Scuderia version borrows its name from the Formula One racing team and gains its performance edge through the use of lightweight materials and hi-tech electronics. Seven-time world champion Michael Schumacher contributed to the 430 Scuderia’s development himself; the result is a supercar faster than anything this side of an F1 racer. With the trophies piling high and the road cars rolling out, a third pillar of the Ferrari empire has emerged specifically to manage the company’s vast branding reach. The fruits of this third division’s labors can be seen on a growing array of consumer products, ranging from t-shirts to computers and from Segway scooters to home gyms, all tinted crimson red and emblazoned with the Prancing Horse icon. However long before Ferrari became a household name, the company

Images ÂŠFerrari/ Officine Panerai

was partnering with some of Switzerland’s most esteemed watchmakers to produce increasingly unique and coveted timepieces that adorn the wrist in similar fashion to a Ferrari sports car adorning the driveway. Timepieces bearing the Prancing Horse have long since earned their place at the top of Ferrari’s ever-growing roster of licensed products. It is in many ways fitting that the first Ferrari timepieces were produced by Cartier, the world-renowned jeweler extraordinaire widely credited with the creation of the first men’s wristwatch. Enzo Ferrari first approached Cartier in 1983 and commissioned them to produce bespoke wristwatches which he presented as gifts to his favorite racing drivers. Cartier, which also rather fittingly awards the most prestigious prize in European horse racing, continued to produce the highly-prized collectables until two years after Enzo’s passing. His mantle was eventually taken up by his erstwhile righthand-man, Luca Cordera Montezemolo. Growing out of his personal ties with the executives at Girard Perregaux, a tenyear partnership was forged between the two companies that saw the creation of even more unique Ferrari timepieces than their predecessor’s between 1994 and 2004.

Officine Panerai is the latest to be awarded the license from Maranello, having established itself over decades of supplying the Italian Navy. The “Ferrari Engineered by Officine Panerai” range is split between two lines – Scuderia and Granturismo – both of which employ the finest materials, from titanium to platinum, and encompass distinct styling features that evoke Ferrari’s sinuous and curvaceous automotive creations in the most evocative fashion. A variety of versions are offered, including GMT and chronograph movements. To celebrate Ferrari’s 60th anniversary, Panerai has produced a special edition perpetual calendar wristwatch. Encased in pink gold is a special movement that displays the date and month at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively, perpetually tracking the calendar and requiring no adjustment until the year 2100. Only 60 examples will be offered. The saga of Ferrari timepieces closely mirrors Ferrari’s own history, starting small and growing into a business unto itself. Although other sportscar companies and racing teams have followed suit with their own automobile-derived wristwatches (see SwissMadeMagazine Spring 2007), as on the race track Ferrari remains the pioneer and front-runner, its special products coveted by collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.

ARCHITECTURE

LE CORBUSIER by Andrea Crisanti

Le Corbusier is one of the most important interpreters of 20th century European architecture. His work makes him the strongest personality of all modern movements. Certainly he is the most complete, full of imagination, ideas and creativity.He believed that architecture is “able to produce happy people” and can improve the human condition through rational organization of space. The architect took on the mission to solve social conflicts by projecting new urban models where green spaces, air and square meters are granted to any individual.

Le Corbusier dealt with these arguments with an impetus that was at the same time rational and mystical, projecting “volumes assembled under the light,” masterpieces of sculptural architecture. Think of the Villa Savoye, which represents the most charming monument of the architectural cubism where the five principles of the “new architecture” appear: pilotis, roof gardens, an open floor plan, lengthwise windows and a free facade. Suddenly I feel the need to see the places where all that originated.

I arrive in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, on an evening in May. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cold. The rain, accentuating the blackness of the asphalt, beats down on the few passers-by. Everything appears just as I imagined it: trees, hedges, the cars in the streets. Red, yellow and green colors silently alternate, revealing the perfect mechanism of urban life. It is into this social order, consolidated by culture and favorable traditions, that Charles Edward Jeanneret was born 120 years ago, on October 6, 1887. 90

He left his native town in 1917 to settle in Paris, where he used the pseudonym of Le Corbusier. He entered the period of his best-known professional work, almost seeming to deny his previous achievements. In fact, he gave rise to a misunderstanding when in 1929, in the first volume of “Oeuvre complète,” he left out all his production prior to 1920. “What encourages our dreams is that they may come true,” Le Corbusier wrote. But he was disappointed: His dreams remained utopian theories that were crushed by the atrocious iniquities of the Nazi Holocaust. He was aware of the failure of the ideals of a universal architecture, of the fall of any hope to redeem the world with the use of reason. So, even if with great regret, he abandoned his rational ideas and entered the next phase of his method of planning. In his masterpiece “Notre Dame Du Haut,” he discarded the principles of rational thought and gave birth to an autonomous architecture full of strong psychological implications generated by the place itself. Notwithstanding what many historians say, Le Corbusier is the result of a long process that started in La Chaux-de-Fonds and, in continuum, took shape in the social-urban building complex of the “Unity of Habitation” in Marseilles. The thirty years spent in La-Chaux-de-Fonds are fundamental in the formation of his artistic personality. Charles Edouard Jeanneret was the son of Marie Charlotte Amelie Perret, a piano teacher, and Georges Edouard Jeanneret, an enameler of clock faces. From 1902 to 1905 he attended art school, taking lessons in decorative engraving and specializing in the decoration of watchcases. When his eye disease worsened during 1904, he devoted his studies to the ornamentation of furniture and buildings. He maintained a strong orientation toward Art Nouveau, which helped him feel connected to his family and artistic education. He also owed much to Charles L’Eplattenier,

his teacher of drawing and decorative composition, who immediately recognized Jeanneret’s talent and established a deep cultural relationship with him. With a group of students, Jeanneret tried to create a regional style strongly characterized by symbols. He believed decoration is something added to buildings, not necessary to their construction. The group was interested in this aspect only and convinced Jeanneret to isolate himself, for a period of time, in the woods near La Chaux-de-Fonds, where he tried to delineate an adequate graphic synthesis of natural elements: leaves, flowers, trees. “Architecture is the wise, correct and magnificent play of volumes assembled under the light,” he said. Volumes are of outstanding importance, but other elements are also to

be taken into consideration. First is the almost obsessive attention he paid to the finish of surfaces. He assigned a sort of psychological value to the decoration of buildings as it modifies the perception of volumes revealed by light. Le Corbusier also owed to his native town the solid foundations from which all of his city planning ideas evolved. In 1794, a fire had destroyed La-Chaux-de-Fonds. The town was rebuilt on an octagonal layout of the street axes. “A regular plan guarantees against abuse,” wrote Le Corbusier, who happily spent his youth in a space designed in the shape of a chessboard. He unconsciously interjected it and realized innumerable variations of this scheme, including the Plan Voisin in 1925 in Paris and the town plan for Saint Dié in 1945.

In his book “L’Art decoratif d’aujourd’hui” (1925), he recalled the time spent in his father’s lab and described how his father simplified floral decorations, turning them into a homogeneous pearly white color. “Industry produces perfect and useful objects, the authentic luxury of which lies in the elegance of conception, in the simple execution and in efficacy of performance,” he wrote. In 1936, this concept was given form in a few drawings for the project “Auto Maximum.” This new car design seemed to precede some Citroen models, especially the 2CV by Flaminio Bertoni, which combined style with low cost and was designed for the powerful European middle class. These few car drawings remind us of Louis-Joseph Chevrolet, founder of the Chevrolet Motor Car Company, who was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1878, nine years before Le Corbusier. It is simply not the case that the Chevrolet logo is the dynamized Swiss cross. In both of them we find the same studies in favor of a simplified industrial production. We see a common matrix

based on the modern and democratic education both men were given in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Since the Industrial Revolution, movement and space have been the fundamental principles to generate and measure social and economic development. In La Chaux-de-Fonds, the invariables are exemplified by the vocation for watches, which make the measurement of time visible; the Chevrolet car production, which cuts down the interval between departure and arrival time; and the architecture of Le Corbusier, who enlightens space to express his concept of living. My visit is over. I leave La Chaux-de-Fonds early in the morning. The sun high over the mountains warms the air I breathe. From the place where the architect Jeanneret-Le Corbusier grew up, I take with me the message that, in the elected place of La Chaux-de-Fonds and in the work of Le Corbusier, represents the strongest bet on a future in which men will find a balance “able to produce happy people.”

ACCESSORIES

THOM BROWNE HARRY WINSTON for men only... Harry Winston, the world renowned jeweler, has collaborated with Thom Browne, the award winning menswear designer, to create a unique collection of men’s diamond jewelry. Harry Winston Men by Thom Browne includes cuff links, rings, tie bars and limited edition timepieces that are at once luxuriously understated and quietly opulent - a testament to the refined elegance of Harry Winston and the meticulous aesthetic of Thom Browne. “Thom Browne’s distinctly American sensibility and his rigorous style reflect Harry Winston’s commitment to the highest standards of design and craftsmanship. We are delighted by the collaboration and think the designs are a great addition to our product offerings,” said Thomas J. O’Neill, Chief Executive Officer of Harry Winston. Harry Winston revolutionized diamond jewelry design with the invention of flexible, handmade, platinum settings that resulted in exceptional dimensionality and brilliance. Similarly, Thom Browne’s approach to design manipulates shape and material to redefine the parameters of men’s fashion. Harry Winston Men by Thom Browne features a custom cut trapezoidal diamond set in diagonal rows to recall the classic regiment stripe that is signature of the menswear designer. The cut of the stones and the engineering of the settings represent a new standard in men’s jewelry.

“I have always had tremendous respect for the extraordinary quality of Harry Winston and the attention to detail they place on every design in their collection. Being able to express my creativity in precious metal and diamonds is an exciting opportunity,” said Thom Browne. Known for his immaculate, modern tailoring, Thom Browne launched his custom-made men’s clothing company in 2001. He was named Menswear Designer of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2006.