SiP 2015

SiP SiP magazine magazine

42 | EXPLORING THE FOREST ON OUR DOORSTEP

Examining the unique and quickly growing ecosystem that makes up Sullivan’s Island’s maritime forest By Stratton Lawrence

48 | THE COLLEGE FOOTBALL CLUB

A special group with trophies, rings and medals meets for coffee, grits and conversation By

Jennifer Tuohy

52 | DRIVEN BY THE WIND

A close-knit kiteboarding community calls Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island home By

Alejandro Ferreyros

58 | COASTAL SAVIORS

Historic heroes of the U.S. Life-Saving Service garner recognition from the National Park Service a century after their efforts began By Stratton Lawrence

64 | A FIGHTING CHANCE

Meet the islanders who invest time and heart to save a special species, the loggerhead turtle By Lori McGee

68 | PORCH PERSPECTIVE

Four porches represent different aesthetics, legacies, color palettes and people By Margaret Pilarski

82 | LAST LOOK A BENCH BY THE WATER

SiP SCENE

After you’ve soaked up the sun, check out these activities islanders enjoy 73 |

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SiP SALUTES

Dive into the local personalities that make our islands so unique

34 | THE MAYOR OF MAYBERRY BY THE SEA

Meet Mickey Williams, Sullivan’s Island’s unofficial artist-in-residence

38 | BUILDERS, GROCERS AND POSTMASTERS

Multiple generations of the Blanchard family make memories and history on the island

ISLAND LIFE

Explore what makes these islands such special places to live, and spectacular places to visit

14 | SEARCHING FOR SEASHELLS ON THE SEASHORE

Tried-and-true methods to gathering the islands’ beach treasures

16 | A BEVY OF BEAUTIFUL BIRDS

Avian life on the Carolina waterways is varied, colorful and easily found with our advice

18 | PEOPLE & PLACES

Experience the sights and scenes of 2014 with a round-up of island events

20 | ISLAND THROWBACK

Isle of Palms was once the Coney Island of the South

22 | LITTLE RIDE, BIG PERSONALITY

Golf carts abound on the islands, providing a low-key form of familyfriendly transportation

26 | LITERARY LANDSCAPES

Writers inspired by the scenes of the island have long shared its mystique with their readers

28 | CRUISING TO SCHOOL

There’s no yellow school bus for the children of Dewees Island, who ferry to school each morning

30 | SiP SPOTLIGHT

Highlighting a unique hotspot on our islands; this issue, the Isle of Palms’ Marina

32 | SiP STAYCATION

An inside scoop on local loves and nearby wonders for islanders looking for adventure

TAKE A SiP OF OUR ISLAND LIFE

Life is beautiful. It’s a simple fact. No matter where you live, who you are or what you do, you can find beauty every day. From a daisy pushing through pavement in the inner city to a dolphin carving a path through the surf, nature offers up beauty in many obvious ways. While not so obvious, that smile from your neighbor or the contented sigh from your partner as you sit together on the porch at the end of busy day, also hold a type of beauty. That beauty is grown out of the happiness and contentment we derive from community.

Here on the Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island we are fortunate to have both of these things; outstanding natural beauty and an incredible community. Sometimes it is easy to forget one or both of these things when we are wrapped up in the daily business of life. As editor of Island Eye News, the newspaper that serves these islands, I follow closely the issues that arise in our community and am all too aware how quickly everyday obstacles can obscure the simplicity and beauty life on these islands offers.

It was out of this idea that SiP was born. The team here at Lucky Dog Publishing wanted to find a way to celebrate the unique and special barrier islands community. With the help of generous advertisers, talented contributors and a dedicated editorial team, the mission of this magazine is to honor, recognize and highlight the stories, places and personalities that populate Sullivan’s Island, Isle of Palms and the surrounding island communities. It is my hope that when you read this magazine you’ll learn something new about your community—something that will make you love it even more.

Some of the stories we’ve collected for our inaugural issue include a deep exploration of the maritime forest on Sullivan’s Island (Exploring the Forest on our Doorstep, on page 42), a lively interview with the cadre of retired college football coaches who call the Isle of Palms home (page 48), and an exclusive early look at the new museum coming to the historic Coast Guard district on Sullivan’s Island, which will honor the superhuman efforts of the U.S. Life-Saving Service in the nineteenth century (page 58).

We also explore unique facets of life on the islands; from the golf cart culture (page 22), to children who ride a boat to school (page 28), to the fascinating personalities peppering our community. Meet Mickey Williams (page 34), raised on the Isle of Palms and now Sullivan’s Island’s unofficial artistin-residence. Williams’ breathtaking landscapes will help you appreciate the beauty that surrounds us on whole new level. One of my favorite stories in this issue is our Island Family (page 38). After spending time with Mary Blanchard’s clan, who first arrived here in the 1800s, you’ll gain a whole new perspective on barrier island life.

Welcome to SiP, we hope you’ll stay awhile and soak up the beauty of our community.

Jennifer Tuohy, Editor-in-Chief

Photo by Steve Rosamilia.

Lynn Pierotti Publisher

Jennifer Tuohy

Editor-in-Chief

Margaret Pilarski Deputy

Editor

Steve Rosamilia Photographer

Jessica Feller Art Director

Alejandro Ferreyros Graphic Designer

Lori McGee & Marci Shore

Advertising Executives

Contributors

Carol Antman

Barbara Bergwerf

Gregg Bragg

Kathryn Casey

Sarah Harper Diaz

Judy Drew Fairchild

Anne Hasshold Harris

Stratton Lawrence

Lori McGee

Hunter McRae

Delores Schweitzer

Marci Shore

www.sipmagazinesc.com

About SiP

SiP Magazine is published annually by Lucky Dog Publishing, LLC., 2205 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island, SC, and is mailed to all property owners on Sullivan’s Island, Isle of Palms and Dewee’s Island.

Contact SiP tel. 843.886.6397

mailing address: po box 837, Sullivan’s Island, SC 29482 for editorial inquiries jennifer@luckydognews.com for advertising inquiries lynn@luckydognews.com www.luckydognews.com

Copyright 2015

Margaret Pilarski has lived in the Charleston area for over a decade and has been writing and editing stories about the area’s entrepreneurs and artists, history and hotspots for much of that time. By day she works for a consulting firm, by night she eats and drinks her way around town— you know, for research. On the weekends she’ll probably tell you she’s going for a run, but she’s really just reading a book in her hammock or pretending to garden.

Hunter McRae, born and raised on Isle of Palms, is a Charleston-based photojournalist who focuses on weddings, lifestyle portraiture and editorial stories. Her work is frequently featured in The New York Times, Charleston Weddings magazine and Style Me Pretty. A lifelong traveler, Hunter's recent photo projects include explorations of Panama, Peru and Uganda. See her work at HunterMcRae.com.

Growing up in New Jersey, photographer Steve Rosamilia has always treasured life at the shore. Countless memories of time spent swimming, crabbing, and sharing homemade dinners with his family and friends made deciding to relocate to Sullivan’s Island with his wife, Diane, and son Dean, a natural choice. When not taking photos, Steve can often be found unwinding over cocktails, cheering for Notre Dame, or attempting to play guitar.

Stratton Lawrence calls Folly Beach home, but he’s enjoyed a growing affinity for the Isle of Palms since marrying Hunter McRae, a native of the island. As a freelance writer and editor, Stratton is a contributing author of the Fodor’s Charleston guide and the pen behind Zagat’s restaurant and hotel reviews across the Lowcountry. An explorer at heart, Stratton was amazed to discover just how significant the forest on Sullivan’s Island had become. “I thought you had to take a boat to Capers or Bulls Island to experience an intact maritime forest like this,” he says. “What a natural treasure that’s so accessible to the public.”

Lori McGee, originally from Charlotte, North Carolina, has called Charleston home since 2009. Having moved to the Isle of Palms area two years ago, Lori and her husband have two children. In her free time, Lori enjoys photography, exercising, reading books written by local authors, finding the best cheesecake and playing on the beach with Chloe, her Lab.

Marci Shore and her family have deep roots in the red clay of the North Carolina foothills, but she calls the sands of the sea islands ‘home’ these days. The Wake Forest University graduate writes for the Island Eye News. She also writes songs and performs on fiddle with her favorite local musician friends around the area. Marci is also a licensed real estate agent for Sand Dollar Real Estate on Sullivan’s.

Delores Schweitzer was lucky enough to grow up on Sullivan’s Island and wise enough to return in her mid-30s, where she currently manages the Edgar Allan Poe Branch Library. Delores loves a good story, especially if it involves local history, travel, or cunning canines. She enjoys big pictures, small details, and the experiences that encompass both.

SEARCHING FOR SEASHELLS ON THE SEASHORE

More than 700 species of seashells live in these waters. Common local shells include whelks, angel wings, arks, pen shells, augers, cockles, slipper shells, jingles, coquina and olive shells. Starfish, sea urchins and sand dollars can also be found on area beaches. Local amateur seashell sleuth Lori McGee shares her top tips for shell-seekers out there.

Photos by Steve Rosamilia

You will see different things at different times while you are shelling. The seagulls, the pelicans, the wildlife, the sea life. Half the fun of shelling is the walk on the beach and the feel of the sand between your toes, the wind in your hair, the sun on your skin; the smell of it, the sound of it.

Shelling is a reason to get out there and see everything. Remember to stop from time to time to take in the beauty that surrounds you.

• The best times to look for shells and fossils are on an outgoing tide, during a new or full moon and after a storm.

• Monitor the tides and walk the beach at low tide for the greatest selection, as more shells will have washed up on shore.

• Collect your treasures in a bucket or a mesh bag to let water and sand filter out.

• Wash and dry your shells before you head home so you leave the sand, and the smell, at the beach.

• Wander away from the crowds during an outgoing tide for stellar beachcombing.

If you’re lucky enough to stumble on a large shell, make sure it’s not inhabited. Remember, many crabs and other creatures make their homes in shells so don’t disturb any shells, sand dollars, starfish or other items that are alive. Dead sand dollars are white and smooth without any hair, while live ones are brown and covered with short hairs. Many other shells, including whelks and the lettered olive, can have their inhabitants alive hiding inside. If you are in doubt, don’t take the shell.

Our coastlines are an important part of the environment. What is a pretty beach token to you plays an important role in ecosystems. Algae take shelter in shells, birds use them to build nests, and hermit crabs carry them as armor. Don’t take an excessive amount, and be sure to return any that don’t fit in your suitcase or on the mantelpiece.

A BEVY OF BEAUTIFUL BIRDS

The shores and waterways of South Carolina are teeming with bird life year-round. On our barrier islands we are treated to an ever-changing parade of fabulous feathered friends. Naturalist Sarah Harper Diaz highlights some of the more notable species to be found on or around Sullivan’s Island, Isle of Palms and Dewees. Photos by Dewees photographer Judy Drew Fairchild.

Roseate Spoonbills

Grebe

ROSEATE SPOONBILLS are large wading birds which are easy to identify due to their pink plumage and unique bills. They swing their bills back and forth in shallow water to forage, utilizing their keen sense of touch to find food. They are very rare in South Carolina and are spotted irregularly in small numbers. In the U.S., breeding colonies (called rookeries) are only found in Florida and along the Gulf Coast. Other rookeries are found in Mexico and the Caribbean. This species was brought close to extinction in the 19th century due to plume hunters.

YELLOW-THROATED WARBLER is a neotropical migrant which spends winters in Central America and the Caribbean. The breeding range includes most of the Southeastern U.S., but they can be found year-round along coastal South Carolina. They forage by creeping along branches near the tops of trees in search of insects, especially caterpillars. Although they are fairly common, they are often difficult to see due to their foraging habits.

REDDISH EGRET is extremely rare—so rare in fact that there are thought to be only around 2,000 breeding pairs in the entire United States. Dewees Island is one of the few areas on the East Coast where you may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of this unusual bird. Their foraging behavior is energetic and erratic. They most frequently forage in coastal lagoons and are the only egret species that can be seen foraging along the sea shore. They were almost driven to extinction in the early 1900s due to plume hunters.

GREBES have evolved to spend their lives entirely in water. They are unable or barely able to walk on land, since their legs are located so far to the rear of their bodies. They dive underwater to catch a wide variety of invertebrates, small fish and other food items. The Pied-billed Grebe has a wide distribution in North America. It is small and dark brown with a distinctive dark vertical stripe on its beak. The body shape and size are distinctive and it can be reliably identified at a distance.

NORTHERN GANNET is a large seabird which can be seen foraging along the East and Gulf coasts during the winter months. Northern Gannets breed in large colonies which number in the thousands. In North America, there are only six breeding colonies, all of which are located on islands off the eastern coast of Canada. They forage in the ocean by plunge diving directly into schools of fish. Unfortunately, they are frequently entangled in fishing nets. Northern Gannets don’t reach sexual maturity until they are four or five years old. Breeding pairs raise only one chick per year.

BIRDING HOT SPOTS

• Breach Inlet, between Sullivan’s Island and IOP, is an ideal location to see shorebirds including terns.

• A new nature trail at Station 16 on Sullivan’s provides excellent vantage points for woodland birds.

• The field surrounding Fort Moultrie is home to a variety of unusual birds, including Eastern Meadowlarks and tree swallows; purple martins, common nighthawks and Chuck-will’s-widows; bobwhite quail and Loggerhead shrikes.

• Early morning is the best time for birding, from sunrise to around 9 a.m.

• For photographing birds, try right after sunrise and in the early evening.

Yellow-throated Warbler

Reddish Egret

Northern Gannet

PEOPLE & PLACES

Clockwise from top left: A lovely young lady enjoys the festivities at the annual Sullivan’s Island Christmas Tree Lighting. Anna and Rob Schoderbek celebrate Halloween on Sullivan’s Island. Revellers enjoy supporting the firefighters at SIFD’s Oyster Roast. Ben McElveen and Colin Baker complete the 2014 Floppin’ Flounder Race on Sullivan’s Island. Jack Cleghorn and Leo Fetters celebrate the 5th birthday of The Co-Op. Connie Darling and Friends play Mah Jongg at Poe Library. Olivia LoConte shows off her favorite entry for Best Dressed Doggie at the Isle of Palms’ annual Doggie Day event. Below: Jack and Matt Moloney at a turtle release at Isle of Palms County Park.

Clockwise from top left: The Billhorns celebrate Island Gras on Isle of Palms Front Beach. Isle of Palms’ mayor Dick Cronin and Norma Jean Page get into the festive spirit at the Isle Of Palms Holiday Carnival. Delores Schweitzer and Bob Earl enjoy the Fish Stew at the Sullivan’s Island Fire Department Fish Fry. Maureen and Jim Van Tiem admire a painting at the annual Art on the Beach, Chefs in the Kitchen fundraising event on Sullivan’s Island. Molli LeMin and her daughters Evelyn and Sylvia pose with their penguins at the Poe Library Earth Day craft event. Michael Langley, Allison Thomas, Thomas Carroll and Brittany Briggane try to stay warm following The Windjammer Polar Bear Plunge on Isle of Palms. Vikings and Top Hats were just two of the many costumed capers seen flying into the Atlantic on January 1 at the Dunleavy’s Polar Bear Plunge. Bestselling author and Isle of Palms’ resident Mary Alice Monroe poses with Nathalie Dupree and a copy of her novel, The Summer Wind.

Photos by Steve Rosamilia

ISLAND THROWBACK

ISLE OF PALMS, THE CONEY ISLAND OF THE SOUTH

“Atrip to Charleston is not complete unless you take a trip on the ocean, a ride on the electric cars, a spin on the steeplechase, a turn on the Ferris Wheel,” proclaims a giant poster currently hanging on a wall at The Charleston Museum. Printed sometime between 1900 and 1910, the poster promotes the Isle of Palms, “universally acknowledged as the most attractive spot on the South Atlantic sea coast.”

Boasting “No malaria, cuisine unexcelled, attractive bills of fare, and the second largest Ferris Wheel in the United States,” the promotional material from the young resort attracted visitors from near and far to the isolated island. They came via a ferry from Charleston to Mount Pleasant and then a streetcar across Sullivan’s Island.

Previously the barrier island was known as Long Island—following decades as a hunting ground for the native Sewee tribe—and was only accessible by boat. It wasn’t until 1898 that Dr. Joseph S. Lawrence, of Beaufort, determined to turn it into a seaside resort and renamed it Isle of Palms. Lawrence, president of the Charleston Seashore Railway, constructed nearly eight miles of track and a trestle over Breach Inlet to connect with Sullivan’s Island.

According to Norman D. Anderson’s book Ferris Wheels: An Illustrated History, the first passengers arrived on July 28, 1898. The following year Seashore Railway became a part of the Consolidated Railway, Gas and Electric Co.

Within a few years, IOP was home to the Hotel Seashore, a grand pavilion with a 400 square-foot dance floor, a seaside restaurant and bathhouses. Shortly thereafter, a 186 foot-tall Ferris wheel, originally built for Chicago’s World Fair in 1892, arrived to become the centerpiece of the island’s entertainment, which also included a five-horse mechanical steeplechase imported from Coney Island.

These various attractions went a long way to turning Lawrence’s dream of IOP as the Coney Island of the South into a reality. According to the Street Railway Journal’s June 16, 1906 issue, IOP was “the leading seashore pleasure resort of this section of the south.”

“The winters, balmy and spring-like, make it popular as a tourist resort,” said the Journal. “And the exhilarating climate of this celebrated coast resort brings thousands to Charleston during the summer months.”

By 1913, Charleston-Isle of Palms Traction Company had taken over the resort operations. President James Sottile advertised the island extensively until 1924 when rising costs saw the enterprise dissolved, the trolleys and ferry discontinued, and a newfangled invention called the automobile begin to take over the island.

—Jennifer Tuohy

Historic postcards from City of Isle of Palms archives

LITTLE RIDE

BIG PERSONALITY

For visitors to the islands, the sight of golf carts puttering around the streets can be quite a surprising one, especially as they are often nowhere near an actual golf course. But, as the locals know, golf carts on Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms are a way of life—an essential and easy way to traverse the distance between home and the beach, the store and school, Aunty Pitty’s house and Cafe Medley. All without polluting the air, disturbing the serene sounds of the coast or threatening the neighborhood cats.

So important are golf carts as a form of resident transportation that IOP City Council recently appealed to the state for permission to build special golf cart paths. Margaret Pilarski flagged down some carts across the islands and found out why we love these funny little Neighborhood Electric Vehicles so much.

Photos by Steve Rosamilia.

The Crawfords—Grant, Grant II and Maddie—or as they refer to each other: Daddy, G and Woo Hoo, are Wild Dunes residents who use the carts for everything, since they tend to stay close to home. The whole family likes to pile into the big one and go for a drive to take in the scenery on nice evenings—the 17th tee box on the Links course is a favorite viewing area to look out on Dewees and the ocean. When the second cart was added to the mix for his wife and daughter, Grant added the chrome wheels in honor of Maddie’s style. It was quickly festooned with Hello Kitty, star and palmetto tree stickers, and one of Maddie’s princess figurines sits in the cupholder at all times, designating it her “Princess Cart.”

Abby Kobrovsky and rescued pup, Andy, cruise Sullivan’s Island in John Fradella’s cart. The pair both live on the island (Abby has her own cart, too) and enjoy the ease of transportation with the added delights of experiencing the weather and landscape at the same time. Many of the stickers on John’s cart are for local restaurants, but others are for another sweet island spot— Hawaii. John’s work with HawaiiDiscount.com means he often travels to the state and has come to support Hawaiian conservation and wildlife preservation efforts. That advocacy translates back home to supporting similar preservation efforts on Sullivan’s Island.

The Charleston Notre Dame Club may not have an official vehicle, but Tommy Knisley is its unofficial marketing team on wheels. The club convenes to watch the football and basketball games at Dunleavy’s, which is convenient for the Sullivan’s Island resident. When the golf cart isn’t en-route to the pub, you might spot family hopping between relatives’ homes in the neighborhood, or heading to the beach or on their way to a tennis match. Aside from Notre Dame gear, the only other decoration the cart gets is in the annual Fourth of July parade on Sullivan’s—Tommy’s show of American patriotism is just as important as supporting his Fighting Irish.

Vince Sonson and De Daltorio share their golf cart with Louie and Rosie, their rescues from Charleston Animal Society, where De is the Director of Education. Louie, the three-legged black Lab, loves riding in the cart so much that strangers may find him in the front seat of theirs, expectantly waiting for a ride. (“Sorry in advance!” warns De.) The other place you may find Louie is in a classroom, along with Rosie, as they act as Ambassadogs to teach students about animal compassion and responsibility. Aside from a whirlwind jaunt the cart once took across the IOP connector, down Rifle Range to Coleman and back across the Ben Sawyer bridge (directionally challenged relatives alone at the wheel), Vince and De love the cart as a simple daily symbol of a “clear break between the daily grind of the outside world and the restful, rejuvenating qualities of home.”

Jim and Maureen Van Tiem are the only full-time Wild Dunes residents in this family, but thanks to a large out-of-state family contingency that includes many golfers and beachgoers, they’ve actually sprung for a second cart. Like most, they use their carts for scenic convenience, but often pick up stranded cyclists, reroute lost walkers, or give rides to families with overtired tykes. When the grandchildren are in town, the Van Tiems like to go scouting for wildlife, once racking up a count of 32 deer, another time spotting an alligator near the road, helping find a lost dog, and numerous sightings of egrets, blue herons, flying fish, and of course—turtles. Clockwise from 11 o'clock: Julie Osoteo, Collin Van Tiem, Grace Osoteo, Ryan Van Tiem, Holly Nesbitt, Kristen Komara (blocked is Brennan Van Tiem held by Kristen), Beth Nesbitt, Maureen Van Tiem and Jim Van Tiem. In the cart clockwise, Mark Osoteo, Garett Nesbitt and Jane Nesbitt in his lap.

LITERARY LANDSCAPE

Any visitor to the beaches of Sullivan’s Island or Isle of Palms can tell you what poetry in motion looks like. Walking through soft sands and listening to lapping waves is the perfect fodder for deep thoughts and creativity. It’s no wonder, then, that the islands have served as inspiration to so many writers through the decades. Anne Hassold Harris explores the thoughts of a few of the most notable. Photo by Steve Rosamilia

PAT CONROY

Perhaps one of the South’s best-known authors, Pat Conroy visits the lowcountry coast in many of his bestselling novels. His description of the region in his book The Lords Of Discipline is one that anyone who has crossed a bridge to one of our beaches can relate to, too.

“Charleston has a landscape that encourages intimacy and partisanship. I have heard it said that an inoculation to the sights and smells of the Carolina lowcountry is an almost irreversible antidote to the charms of other landscapes, other alien geographies. You can be moved profoundly by other vistas, by other oceans, by soaring mountain ranges, but you can never be seduced. You can even forsake the lowcountry, renounce it for other climates, but you can never completely escape the sensuous, semitropical pull of Charleston and her marshes.”

EDGAR ALLAN POE

Edgar Allan Poe’s description of Sullivan’s Island in his short story The Gold Bug is exactly the reason why so many residents and visitors love it today. Poe was no doubt inspired by the simplicity of Sullivan’s Island when he was stationed here in the 1820s. He went on to use Sullivan’s as a location in several of his works.

“The Island is a very singular one. It consists of little else than the sea sand and is about three miles long. Its breadth at no point exceeds a quarter of a mile."

DOROTHEA BENTON FRANK

The lowcountry’s coast is practically its own character in this Sullivan’s resident’s bestselling novels. Frank visits the island again in her newest novel, All the Single Ladies, out this June.

“Maybe it's because I was born on Sullivan's Island, I don't know, but when I'm not here I am filled with a kind of desperate longing to be here. That longing leads to remembering, which leads to wondering about the what-ifs of life and then rewriting my own history or imagining another life follows. I'm pretty sure there's sand from Sullivan's Island in my bloodstream.”

MARY ALICE MONROE

An active environmentalist, Monroe, who lives on Isle of Palms, uses her lowcountry home as inspiration for her novels and to draw attention to endangered species and the effect humans have on nature.

“The natural world of the islands is the source of my inspiration. The wetlands is a rich ecosystem ripe with pungent, salty scents and continuing cycles of life and death. All changes with the tides, that living breathing soul of the lowcountry. The Atlantic Ocean is a mercurial beast. Those of us who live on a barrier island know better than to turn our back on it. One moment serene and glistening, the next turbulent and dangerous. Stories thrive in such an environment.”

MARJORY WENTWORTH

South Carolina’s Poet Laureate, Marjory Wentworth, arrived on Sullivan’s Island in the late 1980s. The islands have since served as inspiration for many of her awardwinning poems and books. Shackles, Wentworth’s prizewinning children’s book, is based on a true story of three young boys on a mission to find buried treasure and instead find a set of shackles used on slaves centuries ago. The book captures a painful, and very important, part of the island’s history.

“The South Carolina barrier islands, Sullivan’s Island in particular, have been a source of inspiration for my poems and stories. The omnipresence of the sea in all its manifestations permeates my work. I feel wrapped in the natural world when I am on the islands, and the wildlife that is found there is an endless source of metaphor. The history of Sullivan’s Island is sometimes quite violent (the wars that have played out there/ Fort Moultrie and the landing point for enslaved Africans), and the tension between this history and the sheer beauty of the place is endlessly fascinating to me.”

CRUISING TO SCHOOL

Every morning at 5:30 a.m., eight children begin their school routine, which includes a rather unusual five-mile boat ride.

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children.

Marci Shore meets the Dewees Island school

Photos by Steve Rosamilia

As the bald eagle flies, which it does quite frequently here, it’s around five miles from Dewees Island to the dock at the Isle of Palms Marina. During the 20-minute ferry trip from the island, real estate agent Judy Fairchild usually sets down her phone, sits back and enjoys the natural peacefulness of her commute across the Intracoastal Waterway.

On the other hand, the eight students who board the 6:30 a.m. “School Boat” each weekday have precious little time before their phones must be silenced for the school day. Despite it still being dark on the morning ferry ride, “They’re all on their phones with headphones on the entire time,”

Kate Fairchild, Erin O’Leary, 13, and Erin’s brother Declan, 8, catch the school boat from Dewees Island.

Captain Shawn Marsh said.

Up at 5:30 a.m. to dress, eat breakfast and hop on the golf cart to the ferry dock, these students have a unique journey to school, but not as unique as home itself. A private island just north east of Isle of Palms, Dewees has only 15 full-time resident households.

“When people hear we live on a private island, some people think we actually own the island and have it all to ourselves,” Erin O’Leary, 13, and a student at Laing Middle School, said.

One of three O’Leary children, Erin sometimes tries to go back to sleep once she gets on the ferry, but finds it difficult. Living on a private island sounds like a luxurious paradise to many adults—and while Erin has no complaints, she does sometimes wish it was easier to get back and forth from home. Forgetting your homework has a whole new level of complications.

There are 150 total lots on Dewees’ 1,200 acres and, thanks to strict covenants, there can never be more. A new community, the Dewees Island Association was formed in the 1990s in direct response to the changing blueprint of nearby barrier islands as development boomed following Hurricane Hugo.

Judy Fairchild, who has two children that ride the school boat, Kate and Ted, calls the ferry captain each morning to confirm number of people who will need a ride, so he can determine which boat to bring. Kate, a junior at Wando High, has been taking the ferry to and from school for five years now. Depending on how late the bus is running in the afternoon, they take the 4:30 p.m. or 5:30 p.m. ferry home.

“If it wasn’t for the ferry ride, I don’t know when I’d get my homework done,” Kate said, making a beeline for “her” seat. “We all have ‘our’ seats,” she said. “This is my corner.”

“This is ‘my’ seat,” declares Erin as she settles in for the ride. Her younger brother, Declan, 8, gets out his iPad. There are no cars on Dewees, transportation is by bike or golf cart. Declan gets around the island on his bicycle until he turns 11 and he can get his golf cart driving permit.

Due to a highly unusual concept for Dewees children—traffic—they sometimes have to wait at the marina for the afternoon ferry. It’s no terrible inconvenience though, since the store is fully stocked with “Cheez-Its and milkshakes,” Declan said. The frequent customers are “good kids” said Tommy Young, who works at store. He sees them most days for snacks before their afternoon cruise.

Erin and Declan’s parents, Pat and Liz O’Leary, chose to live full time on Dewees for the unparalleled experience it offers their children. And while getting on and off the island may require a little more effort, that experience more than makes up for this minor inconvenience.

“We wanted to move to a place where the kids could experience a level of independence and an interaction with nature that they just couldn’t get somewhere else,” Pat O’Leary said.

It’s really not such an inconvenience for them, they say, to live on the Island’s time, and in harmony with nature.

Payoffs are plentiful with nature’s bounty proving them with daily blessings of beauty.

“I don’t think of the ferry as an inconvenience,” Judy Fairchild said. “Every day, twice a day, we get to do what people in other areas wait 51 weeks a year to do for a week. We have a chance to visit with neighbors, read the paper, surf the web, and chat with friends. We have to plan a little in advance, but as soon as you step on the ferry, you can take a deep breath and be surrounded by the wonders and the peace of the lowcountry waters.”

SiP SPOTLIGHT IOP MARINA

Kathryn Casey cruises through the highly rated Isle of Palms Marina.

Transient boaters making long voyages, tourists looking to book fishing charters and rent boats, and locals docking their boats. These are the characters that call the Isle of Palms Marina their home away from home.

Tucked away on a northern corner of Isle of Palms, the marina is easy to miss, unless you’re looking for it. And it turns out a lot

of people are. Activecaptain.com, an online database for boat captains looking for places along the Eastern seaboard to dock overnight, has 55 (and counting) positive reviews for the IOP Marina, among the highest number in the Charleston area. These ratings put it in the top 10 rated docks.

“Word travels fast in the group of professional boaters,” Chase Fields, Marina

Dockmaster, says of the marina’s quickly ballooning reputation.

What is it that makes the IOP Marina stand out amongst the competition?

According to marina staff, these “transient” boaters are generally looking for a safe, dependable place to refuel their boats, grab some much-needed supplies and spend the night. The marina’s sheltered location provides an excellent layer of protection from disruptive elements like strong currents, big wakes and high winds. Amenity-wise the marina store offers fresh produce, a deli, showers, laundry machines, Wi-Fi, clothing, and all manner of products for boating needs. In addition, despite its small size overall, the marina has docking spaces for larger boats—an attractive feature for transient boaters transporting large yachts.

“WORD TRAVELS FAST IN THE GROUP OF PROFESSIONAL BOATERS.”

Chase Fields, Marina Dockmaster

Aside from amenities, most Active Captain reviewers rave about the wonderful island atmosphere at the marina, especially the local restaurants and live music. Some even come just for the oyster roasts hosted by Morgan Creek Grill each fall.

“People love to hear the music on their boats,” Fields says of the live music usually emanating from the Grill in the early evening. The marina also offers beach cruisers for boaters to bicycle over to Front Beach for happy hour after a long day of traveling.

“Boaters enjoy the general island feel that we provide,” Fields says. The transient boating season begins and ends around the hurricane season—June 1 to November 30. Many boaters avoid travelling below the Florida/Georgia line during this time, and often end up enjoying extended stays at the IOP Marina.

This same island feel is what makes the marina a great spot for tourists during the summer season. Families that rent houses in Wild Dunes and throughout the island come to the marina to rent kayaks, paddle boards and jetskis. Parasailing, eco tours, sunset cruises and dolphin watching are also on offer.

PLAN THE PERFECT STAYCATION

Travel blogger Carol Antman has made a career writing about a love of travelling, in particular exploring some of the most special and interesting places within a day’s drive of her home on Sullivan’s Island. For SiP, she has planned the perfect “staycation” for her fellow islanders, as well as offering visitors some of her tips. Photo by Steve Rosamilia.

There’s a rule you may not know about living here: residents are required to have more fun than tourists. Actually, it ought to be a law. Every day off is an opportunity for a mini-vacation. Every staycation is an opportunity for adventure, exploration, learning and reveling in how lucky we are to live in this paradise. Yet sometimes it’s all too easy not to see what’s right in front of your nose. There are simply too many things to enjoy right on the islands or just nearby. Skip the hassles. Sleep in your own bed. Enjoy the wealth of experiences right in our own backyard. Here are some of my favorite things to do right here at home.

BEST WAY TO PEER BENEATH THE DEEP

Barrier Island Eco Tours

When the cast net is pulled on board and you get a glimpse of what’s swimming in our ocean, it’s awe-inspiring. These family-friendly boat rides from the Isle of Palms Marina cruise to Capers Island to spot dolphins as well as other specialized trips. It’s relaxing, informative and entertaining. nature-tours.com

BEST PLACE TO GET INVITED

Dewees Island

Step aboard the hourly ferry from the Isle of Palms and exhale. You’ll feel like the King or Queen of the Nile as you cruise the Intracoastal Waterway to the parallel universe of Dewees Island. No traffic lights, just trees; no cars, just golf carts; no noise, just birdcalls and lots of peace and quiet. Over 95 percent of the 1,200-acre island is in its natural state with only 64 secluded houses flanked by one of the most pristine and private beaches in the country. Many of them are for rent, which is the only way you can go unless you’re invited to visit a homeowner there. deweesrentals.com

BEST PLACE TO MAKE S’MORES

Build a bonfire on Sullivan’s Island Beach bonfires make memories. Sullivan’s is one of the only places that still allows them. Start by downloading an application from the Town website’s permit page. Take it to the Town Hall, pay a refundable deposit, get the form signed by the fire department and enjoy some old-fashioned family fun. sullivansisland-sc.com/licensespermits.aspx

BEST PLACE TO PLAY HIDE-AND-SEEK IN HISTORY

Fort Moultrie

The teachable moments at Sullivan’s Fort Moultrie are endless. During its 171 years of use by the military, the fort played important roles in defense from the Revolutionary War through World War II. Much of that is included in the interpretive materials among the cannons and fortifications. Significantly, the fort was also a major point of entry for slaves arriving in North America who were quarantined in pest houses. A display in the visitor’s center and a commemorative sign describes the fort’s role as the “Ellis Island of slavery.” nps.gov/fosu/learn/historyculture/fort_moultrie.htm

BEST WAY TO GET UP THE CREEK

Kayaking from the islands

Gliding silently through the spartina grass of the marsh is a meditative experience available to very few. If you have a kayak, or rent one in town, you can launch it from the back beach on Station 26 on Sullivan’s. At the marina on IOP you can rent a kayak at Coastal Expedition’s kiosk and be launched without hauling a thing. Not enough horsepower for you? Try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding or kitesurfing by renting equipment from Sealand Adventure Sports on Sullivan’s. Or check out Tidal Wave Water Sports at the IOP Marina and get your adrenaline rushing by renting motor boats, wave runners or trying parasailing.

DAYTRIPS

If you have a hankering for a short day trip during your staycation, hit the road for these close-by adventures, easily enjoyed in an afternoon.

BEST PLACE TO DROP BREADCRUMBS

The Francis Marion National Forest Paths through the woods make hiking and biking one of the area’s most accessible afternoon adventures. Short hikes like the I’on Interpretive or the Shell Mound Trails can be enjoyed in less than an hour. The 350-mile Palmetto Trail begins at Buck Hall Landing and goes across the entire state. Try the Awendaw Passage section for a slice of scenery straight out of Pat Conroy or the Swamp Fox section for a rough and ready scramble on your mountain bike (palmettoconservation.org). Even closer, the new Laurel Hill trail begins behind the Park West Recreation Center. It’s a beautifully developed, easy five-mile loop. ccprc.com/2005/Laurel-Hill-County-Park

BEST PLACE TO WALK ALONE ON THE BEACH Bulls Island

One of the world’s most important migratory bird sights is right at our doorstep. Almost 300 species have been identified there. As you walk a mile across the 5,000 acre island from the boat dock you’ll see fresh and saltwater ponds, maritime forests, marshes and lolling alligators. You’ll want to take plenty of photos of Boneyard Beach, a surreal landscape of eroded and weathered tree limbs. There are miles of sandy solitude. Visitors to Bulls Island can enjoy surf fishing, watching wildlife, picnicking, hiking and biking before the ferry brings you back to reality. The only way to the island is via Coastal Expeditions’ Bulls Island Ferry. bullsislandferry.com

BEST SALTLESS, SANDLESS SWIMS

The Marion, Moultrie and Santee Lakes

Just an hour away is a world of freshwater fun. At these inland lakes you can hike, bike, swim, boat, fish, rent cabins, camp, picnic or vacation in rental houses. Santee State Park has facilities for most every outdoor endeavor or you can rent a vacation cottage in one of the nearby lakeside communities and spend the day in your bathing suit, fishing pole in hand. Or take an informative eco tour with Fisheagle. You’ll quickly see why so many of the locals there have not moved to the big city. southcarolinaparks.com/santee/introduction.aspx

BEST PLACE TO SEE NATURE FROM YOU CAR WINDOW

Botany Bay

Fifty miles south of Charleston is Botany Bay Wildlife Management Area. Whether you drive, bike or hike the scenic 6.5 miles you’ll traverse forests, agricultural fields and coastal wetlands while stopping at the 15 points of interest described on a map given at the entrance. Learn about the history and agriculture and stroll the bizarre landscape of the driftwood covered beach. Highlights include the grounds of Bleak Hall Plantation with its picturesque ice house and tabby shed. sciway.net/sc-photos/charleston-county/botany-bay.html

THE MAYOR OF MAYBERRY BY THE SEA

Raised on the Isle of Palms, Mickey Williams has become Sullivan’s Island’s unofficial artist-in-residence. Jennifer Tuohy meets the celebrated landscape artist in his Middle Street chambers, and gets a glimpse at the story behind the daily reports. Photos by Steve Rosamilia

“This is the Sunday report at noon.......Studio Rule 309......NEVER open the front door without looking first...Never open the front door wearing only boxers and a smile.......never open the front door... looking like a humble caveman with wild hair...a beard...wearing boxers and a smile....jamming to Nirvana..........Never......before looking first....why?....because on the other side of the door getting ready to knock might be a family who looks like the Griswalds from Ohio.....”

So begins one of the almost daily missives Mickey Williams sends his 3,400 fans on Facebook. As Sullivan’s Island’s unofficial artist-in-residence, some days he mulls on the magnificence of soft shell crab at High Thyme, other days he walks down memory lane to the time when he was a young boy running amok on Isle of Palms.

“I had a routine when I was in the 7th grade......I would stop halfway to the bus stop and take off my shoes and then pull a pair of leather moccasins I made at Boy Scout Camp that summer.....Camp Ho Nan Wah.......I was in Troop 34....we were like the Bad News Bears.....and that summer at camp had us getting into trouble and a lot of hell raising but I came out of it with my most treasured possession...a pair of leather indian moccasins......I wore them so much I wore holes in the soles and my mother forbid me to wear them to school.....but I would stop halfway to the bus stop and pull them out of my book bag...and put them on totally oblivious to the frigid ground and the fact that I could stick all of my toes out of the hole in the right shoe.......we were surrounded by woods on the Isle Of Palms...where there are beautiful homes now, once stood woods and marshy areas that were wild and the perfect playground before the bus came.....we had spear fights and we played a game called Manhunt......”

Each of these stream-of-consciousness reports begin or end with the words “This is the report from Mayberry by the Sea.” Once, someone, somewhere likened the idyllic lifestyle on this barrier island to that quintessential American town where Andy Griffith grew up, and it stuck. As the unofficial Mayor

of Mayberry by the Sea, Williams sees it as his duty to update his citizens by painting a verbal picture of life on Sullivan’s Island.

“The Mayor thing actually started when I was on East Bay Street,” Williams says, while showing me around his charmingly eccentric studio located on Middle Street (you’ll recognize it by the colorfully lit palm tree outside).

“I had an epiphany one day, after the economy crashed and I lost my studio outside of I’on (in Mount Pleasant). An inner voice started talking to me. It said, ‘You’d better change the way you’re living or you are not going to make it.’ That changed everything for me,” he says. “I opened the studio on East Bay Street and reconnected with people. I got to know everyone on that street—every clerk, every bartender, every person that poured coffee. I’d go on my rounds every day, talking to everyone and these people gave me joy and happiness. They started calling me the Mayor of East Bay Street.”

As much as he enjoyed his time on the peninsula, he couldn’t resist the lure of the islands where he grew up, and worked for many years to return to the studio he had first opened here in the aftermath of Hurricane Hugo.

“This was my first studio,” he says of the historic building on Middle Street. “I moved here in 1991 and was here for about twelve years. It was right after Hugo hit; there was still a mud line on the wall and the building was in very bad shape.”

“I left here in a huff in about 2003. There was so much drama around here,” he says with obvious relish. “I had no peace of mind here.”

The moment he stepped off the island however, he knew he’d made a mistake, and says he spent the whole time he was gone trying to get the place back. Now he is back, and this time he’s determined to stay.

“I feel I am starting the second half of my career right now and I wanted to do it where I started the first, right here on Sullivan’s Island.”

THE ARTIST’S JOURNEY

Williams was born in 1961 in Anchorage, Alaska. (“My dad had an interesting job with military—all top secret,” he says, explain the surprising location of his birth.) The family lived in several places, including Germany and San Francisco, before his father decided to retire to South Carolina when Williams was 10.

“He had spent time here when he was a kid. My grandfather had operated the bridge, and my Aunt Marcie moved here with her husband, who was a naval captain.”

The family settled on Cameron Boulevard on Isle of Palms, “back when it was the edge of the wilderness.”

A self-professed wild-child, Williams enthuses about all the trouble he got into as a student at Sullivan’s Island Elementary. (Although none of his tall tales from behind the dunes are quite as exciting as the time he ran away from school in San Francisco, in pursuit of naked hippies; leaving his parents and the police to think he’d been been kidnapped by the Zodiac Killer).

Something about the wilderness open to him on the islands helped redirect his disruptive youthful energies. However, he often redirected himself into that wilderness when he should have been in class.

“Ms. Mallard had a sixth sense about me,” he says of his former SIES teacher. “I would disappear into the dunes during recess and she would always be waiting for me when I came out, with a ruler.”

School teachers have had a very strong impact on Williams. They emerge as the main influences in his life as we discuss his childhood and his growth into an artist. He remembers each one vividly, and paints a verbal portrait of them so tangible it’s almost as if they

are sitting on the couch with him, encouraging him or scolding him as we talk.

From the beautiful Ms. Fletcher, his first crush, to Mr. Hicks, the 3rd grade teacher who recognized his artistic abilities early on and christened him the official class artist, teachers are largely responsible for making him the man he is today.

“That really instilled some sort of self-confidence in me,” he says of Mr. Hicks’ prescient designation. “From there I stopped getting into trouble so much in class.”

Art remained a part of his school career through high school at Wando, where he ran into one particular teacher whose opinion effectively altered the course of his life.

“Virginia. Fouche. Bolton,” he says the name precisely, savoring each syllable.

Bolton was Williams’ art teacher at Wando. When he told her he was going to pursue art as career, she dissuaded him, telling him that although he had artistic ability she didn’t think he should do it. That it would take 20 to 30 years for him to develop into a real artist.

“It really hurt my feelings,” he said. The effect on his confidence was immediate. His first art class at USC was a disaster and he dropped art altogether, pursuing a degree in Government and International Studies for the next seven years. He tentatively approached Bolton a few years later, asking for a reference for his application to Clemson to study architecture. She refused.

He was accepted anyway, but just as he was preparing to relocate, Hurricane Hugo came to town.

“I came down (to the island) to go surfing,” he says. “To catch the big waves before it hit.” He never went back to school. He bought a chainsaw and got to work helping with the relief effort following the devastation wreaked by the Category 5 hurricane.

“That’s when I started painting again,” he says. After almost eight years without touching a brush, something in the devastation surrounding him prompted him to seek beauty again. “It was like a light bulb went off in my head. I picked up my brushes and I felt a lightness all of a sudden. I had an epiphany. I realized I was going to be an artist, no matter what Ms. Bolton said.

Williams sold his first piece to an art collector from Detroit at

a show on the lawn outside Channel 2 on Coleman Boulevard. The man told him, “Kid, you’re going to go places.” With his confidence restored, he dived into his new career, getting selected for Piccolo Spoleto, winning best in show and being picked up by the Wells Gallery.

“Within one year I had my first solo show, and you’ll never guess who showed up.” Ms. Bolton and Williams reconnected after the art show and became close friends up until her death in 2004. In retrospect it seems clear to Williams that her discouraging words were more of a motivational tool than an attempt to steer him wrong.

“She knew I was the kind of person who if you told me I couldn’t do it, I would do everything I could to prove you wrong.”

COMING HOME

Williams finally made it back to Sullivan’s Island three years ago, after lobbying the artist who had supplanted him in the studio to move out. He is determined to stay here this time.

“They used to call this place Mayberry by the Sea because it was like a real Mayberry. If the sheriff caught you doing something wrong he wouldn’t take you jail, he’d take you home.

“It was a real small community. People had farm animals when I first moved here, horses on the beach, there were some real characters.

“I’m glad to be back out here, and hopefully I’ll be here a long time.”

Not that he hasn’t noticed some changes since his first stint on Sullivan’s Island.

“You run the risk of it becoming gentrified, but by the same token there’s a lot of real iconic figures out here, a lot of really interesting characters, both newcomers and people that have lived here for generations. If you go to Kiawah, it’s all a homogenous community, but this is a place where people come to live.”

It’s also a place where tourists from Ohio get to meet the Mayor of Mayberry by the Sea in his boxer shorts, and take home a memory that will forever remind them of what a unique seaside town Sullivan’s Island is, and always will be, thanks to people like Mickey Williams.

Over a dozen

BUILDERS, GROCERS & POSTMASTERS

130 YEARS OF THE BLANCHARD FAMILY ON SULLIVAN’S

Eight generations of Blanchards have graced the porches and parlors of, at one point, 10 homes on Sullivan’s Island. Delores Schweitzer meets a family whose ancestors quite literally built our island.

Photos by Steve

Rosamilia

Blanchards, with Mary and John at the center, sit on the porch of one of the ten homes originally owned by Theodore Stanislaus Blanchard and his wife Catherine, who came to Sullivan’s in the 1870s.

Memories come as clear as sunlight sparkling on the Atlantic to Mary Blanchard as she sits in the parlor of her home on Central Avenue, surrounded by pictures of nieces, nephews, siblings, parents and grandparents. Having spent most of her 81 years on Sullivan’s Island, the mind of this former Latin and Algebra teacher is sharp as a sandspur, recalling family stories of industrious men and strong-willed women that helped to build Sullivan’s Island.

Trying to capture all Blanchards and their descendents is a bit like scooping a handful of beach sand on a windy day. Just when you think you have a grasp, some start slipping away while others are blowing in. A strong Catholic community led to large families, and life circumstances often led to remarriages, creating an intricate web of connections between many Islanders. And so we follow one strand back to its source.

According to census and naturalization records, Edward Blanchard, a carpenter, emigrated from France to Charleston and became a citizen in the early 1830s. He followed in the footsteps of other Blanchard relations, who arrived in the city in the 1700s (Mary remembers visiting their bakery on Calhoun Street as a child). Edward and his wife, Cecelia, had at least five children, one of which was Mary’s great-grandfather, Theodore Stanislaus Blanchard, born in 1845.

Theodore served in the South Carolina militia during the Civil War, and 1870 found him working in a saw mill and living in Charleston with his wife Catherine Keenan Blanchard. Catherine, also a first-generation American, was the daughter of Edward and Mary Keenan, who had settled in Mount Pleasant. By 1880, Theodore and Catherine had established a grocery store at Station 10, in Moultrieville on Sullivan’s Island, where they sold staples like grits, rice and sugar to soldiers at Fort Moultrie and summer visitors to the island.

The Blanchard Store prospered, particularly with fort expansion in the late 1800s due to the Spanish-American War. The family grew and Catherine developed an ambition to buy each of her eight children a property on the island. With her shrewd business sense and entrepreneurial spirit, the grocery delivery service stretched into Mount Pleasant and as far as McClellenville. By the time Catherine died in 1931, the Blanchard family owned ten homes on Sullivan’s Island.

Catherine sold the house at 2002 Central Avenue in 1900 to her son John Edward Blanchard for $5. He lived here with his wife, Mary Comar, his father-in-law Patrick Comar, and their six children—Eugene, Agnes, Kathryn, Claude, Keenan and John—while working as an engineer at Fort Moultrie to construct, among other things, the movie theater and the concrete gun batteries.

Claude followed in his father’s footsteps, building many houses on Sullivan’s Island, including eight that still stand between Stations 21 and 22, on or near front beach. Brother John, Mary’s father, worked for Carolina Shipping Company. In the 1930s, John and Claude bought adjacent beachfront lots on Pettigrew, where they built homes to accommodate their large families. Mary’s scrapbooks document times spent playing, laughing, riding horses and celebrating holidays with her mother Rosalie, brothers John and Gene, sisters Sophie and Agnes, and a multitude of friends and relations.

Back on Central Avenue, the unmarried sisters of John

Adelyn Blanchard and Haley Marie Jeffreys, the eighth generation of Sullivan’s Island Blanchards, sit in a swing made by their great-great grandfather. Circa 2015.

Keenan and John Blanchard (on horse) circa 1914.

John Edward Blanchard, his wife Rosalie, with children John, Mary, Sophie, Agnes and baby Gene, in front the family home on Central Avenue, circa 1945.

Jack Blanchard, his father John Blanchard, and family friend Marcy Wolff relax in parlor of their historic island home.

and Claude provided a home base for the family when finances were tight. “We moved like gypsies,” Mary says. They had three houses—the one on Pettigrew, an old house at Station 22 1/2 purchased because Rosalie was afraid guns firing from the Mound during World War II would hit the beach house, and the house on Central where Aunts Aggie, Katie and Keenan lived.

“Whenever it wasn’t rented, we lived there. Daddy always said we were the only paupers on millionaire’s row.”

Fortunately, there were many simple pleasures to island living. Mary went to the public school and had excellent teachers who prepared her for her future vocation. She enjoyed playing on the swings with her best friend, Norwood Smoak, and sitting on the porch of her aunts’ house, listening to the members of Mt. Zion A.M.E. church next door, whose services were so different than those of Stella Maris.

“They would clap and holler and sing, and it was so wonderful. We hated when they got air conditioning because they closed the windows and we couldn’t hear them any more,” she recalls.

Mary’s brother John, ever the adventure-seeker, remembers riding down the Mound on his bicycle, where the real trick was to avoid crashing into the fence at the bottom. Cousins were always nearby for a game of half rubber on the beach. And as for digging ditches to lay the foundations of the 1953 Sullivan’s Island Elementary School? Well, that was just “good exercise.”

If there was a legacy in commerce and construction in the family, there was also a postal connection, too. Thomas Keenan, Catherine Keenan Blanchard’s brother, was postmaster for Atlanticville. Mary’s aunt Kathryn Blanchard was postmistress for Moultrieville and, later, all of Sullivan’s Island. When Kathryn died, Mary’s brother Gene Blanchard was appointed postmaster, where he served for 30 years.

The Central Avenue house was closed up in 1979 because Mary found it easier to care for her parents and Aunt Keenan at the Pettigrew home. Nephew Jack Blanchard fondly remembers the porch with its canvas hammock: “It was the best place to sleep, listening to the waves break at night. We would come from Mount Pleasant to the beach house in the summer, and the family would always gather there for major holidays,” he said.

Only after the family sold the beach house did Mary consider restoring the house on Central Avenue in the mid-1990s.

“Nineteen contractors laughed at me before I found Stan Miller.” It took a lot of restoration and innovation, but finally Mary welcomed John Edward Blanchard’s descendents back to their first island home. Today, the house is a rambling warren of porches, renovated rooms and quirky additions that testify to the many ways it has served the family over the years, providing a family touchstone when all of Catherine Keenan Blanchard’s other properties have been sold off or lost to time.

This spring, twenty-some Blanchards gathered on Central Avenue to celebrate the 80th birthday of Mary’s brother John (pictured left). Mary and her brother Gene still live on the island, but most other family members have moved to Mt. Pleasant or further afield, making every birthday and wedding a joyful reunion.

“It’s always like this,” Michel McNinch, daughter of Sophie Blanchard, said, looking around at her assembled clan. “Everyone under one roof, someone barking orders, and nobody listening.”

The scene of grandchildren racing in and out of doors with adults gathering on the porch or in the parlor to catch up, and others working to set up tables and organize food called to mind similar family celebrations over the past 115 years. If the house could talk, it would echo Michel’s sentiments.

“Uncle John’s great grandchildren are the eighth generation to sit on this porch, in a swing made by my grandfather.” It stands as a legacy of a rich family past, with an arc toward the future— something that would make Catherine and Theodore proud.

EXPLORING THE FOREST ON OUR DOORSTEPS

OVER THE LAST 120 YEARS, SULLIVAN’S ISLAND HAS DONE SOMETHING VERY RARE FOR A BARRIER ISLAND: IT HAS GROWN. LOCAL AUTHOR STRATTON LAWRENCE TAKES A WALK THROUGH THE ALMOST 200-ACRE MARITIME FOREST THAT HAS SPRUNG UP ON THIS “NEW” LAND TO DISCOVER ITS SECRETS AND UNDERSTAND ITS PURPOSE. PHOTOS BY HUNTER MCRAE.

CHRISTOPHER

HAVE HAD HIS HUNDRED ACRE WOOD TO ROAM, BUT THE CHILDREN OF SULLIVAN’S ISLAND CAN

DO POOH AND THE GANG ONE BETTER—A TWO-HUNDRED ACRE WOOD.

Beginning with the completion of the Charleston jetties in 1890, Sullivan’s Island has accumulated sand as it backs up at the mouth of Charleston Harbor. The jetties—massive piles of rocks that extend three miles out into the ocean—funnel sand toward Sullivan’s Island that would otherwise accumulate in the mouth of the harbor, making it one of the only barrier islands on the entire East Coast to be currently growing.

An accreting island has meant more room for new houses and roads. Ion Avenue was once beachfront, only to see two more rows of homes built in front of it throughout the 20th century. In 1991, however, the Town opted to place its remaining undeveloped beachfront land into a conservation easement with the Lowcountry Open Land Trust. At the time, this constituted 87 acres of beachfront property that in a quarter-century has grown to over 190 acres. This new land has developed into a thriving maritime forest—a rare and quickly disappearing habitat along the rest of the South Carolina coast.

The bulk of the forest lies between Station 18 and Fort Moultrie on the island’s west end. To visit its heart—and encounter its array of wildlife—take a walk down the sandy path that begins at the corner of Station 16 and Atlantic Avenue. Within moments, you’ll be transported to a serene, natural world that’s stunning in both its beauty and its very existence in such close proximity to a major metropolitan area.

A FRAGILE BUT PLENTIFUL ECOSYSTEM

“It’s magical,” exclaims Sullivan’s Island Mayor Pat O’Neil as we stride under a canopy of oaks, magnolias and myrtles on a warm April evening. O’Neil—elected in 2015 on a platform that included the principles of “conservation and preservation”—has been instrumental in the community’s efforts to preserve the forest for wildlife and public enjoyment, including a forthcoming project to add short boardwalk sections to trails that cross through critical wetland and dune habitat.

“We don’t want to put up a tourist sign ... but we do want people to come and enjoy this forest,” O’Neil says.

He’s joined in those efforts by conservation groups like the Sullivan’s Islanders, who host educational nature walks and have produced a short series of videos highlighting the ecological importance of the forest.

“If you disturb one thing out here, you disturb everything, because this is such a harsh environment,” explains Julia Khoury, a member of the group’s steering committee, citing the salty air, frequent wind and sandy soil that makes water retention a challenge.

As the land ages, however, topsoil forms as smaller plants decompose, creating a base for maturing wax myrtle trees, as well as the occasional pecan and cedar—both signs of a healthy, established forest. Throughout parts of the forest, seasonal wetlands now exist in the depressions between rows of former beachfront dunes, serving as critical nurseries for aquatic animals. Walking along these soggy areas’ boundaries, we quickly find two species of toads—Eastern Spadefoot and Southern—making their way along the forest floor.

Amphibians like these—along with the insects they dine on—

form the basis of a food chain that supports an incredible array of birds and small mammals, all the way up to the coyotes that now live in the forest, filling the role of apex predator that native red wolves once played. O’Neil points out that in the years since the coyotes have established themselves, the rat population—common on barrier islands like Sullivan’s—has decreased dramatically, as have the numbers of feral cats, whose habit of hunting songbirds can devastate their numbers.

In addition, as the forest grows, the tree canopy blocks the lights of houses from sea turtles nesting on the beach, and their shade clears out the vines and shrubs that can harbor rodents that thrive in a developing or freshly pruned ecosystem.

Although rodent control is a real benefit of the forest to the human residents of Sullivan’s Island, the forest’s largest beneficiaries are the birds.

FOR OUR FEATHERED FRIENDS

During the early 2000s, Nathan Dias lived in San Francisco, seeking inspiration from the vibrant bird conservation organizations throughout California. However, the lowcountry native was distraught over the overdevelopment he witnessed whenever he returned home.

“I was appalled at how development was running wild around Charleston, and nobody was really speaking up for the birds. I couldn’t stay away and let things continue like that,” Dias recalls.

In 2004, the computer security expert returned home to pursue his true passion— bird conservation. He founded the Cape Romain Bird Observatory, and for the last decade has served as a watchdog and advocate whenever a building project threatens to destroy crucial bird habitat.

With plans in place to remove the last remaining forest at Patriots Point, along Charleston Harbor in Mount Pleasant, Dias emphasizes that the Sullivan’s Island tract is the only stretch of forest left for migrating songbirds on the north end of the harbor.

“When birds are headed south during the fall migration, Charleston Harbor is a big natural barrier,” Dias says. “They won’t cross in the daytime for fear that a hawk or falcon will catch them out in the open, and when it’s bad weather at night—rainy, windy or cloudy—they don’t like flying over big bodies of water. So, they stop along the north rim of the harbor and accumulate in massive, fantastic numbers.”

In the spring, the same birds bed down to rest and eat in the forest after crossing the harbor—meaning that twice a year, Sullivan’s Island becomes alive with colorful songbirds like Painted and Indigo Buntings and Yellow-throated Warblers.

“During the migration, the Sullivan’s Island forest is one of the most popular places for songbirds in the state,” Dias says, adding that it’s a “hard and fast rule that large bodies of water need habitat on their margins.” Without that, he warns, we’ll see further reductions in the numbers of

Nathan Dias, Julia Khoury and Pat O’Neil, Mayor of Sullivan’s Island, take a stroll through the maritime forest.

“This forest on Sullivan’s Island reminds me of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park or New York’s Central Park, where a city is smart enough to set aside protected lands for recreation and wildlife.”

NATHAN DIAS

songbirds along the entire East Coast.

For the amateur birder, visiting the woods is made all-the-better by the surrounding views. Emerging from the forest near Fort Moultrie, hikers find themselves in an open shrubland among dunes filled by sea oats, prickly pear cactuses and wild blackberries, with clear views across the harbor to Fort Sumter ahead and a forest canopy full of birds behind.

THREATS TO A SUBURBAN WOODLAND

Throughout the forest, we encounter plant after plant with a story to tell. There’s the spiky-trunked “toothache tree,” with bark that served as a natural salve for the dental ailments of Native Americans and Colonial settlers and the leaves of which are the food source for our largest native butterfly, the Giant Swallowtail. Growing next to it, there’s the sugarberry tree, often called hackberry, with sap that sustains Emperor and Tawny butterflies.

A rabbit hops across the trail in front of us, and a green tree frog gives its distinct chirp from 20 feet away through the trees.

But this idyllic forest isn’t without its challenges. Some wetland areas harbor Chinese tallow, a fast-growing tree still sold for landscaping purposes that has wreaked havoc on coastal wetlands, choking out native plants and drying the soil. Pampus grass, a fastgrowing invasive species that outcompetes native dune grasses, moves in quickly after wax myrtles and other shrubs are pruned. Even the pretty and abundant wisteria along the forest’s primary pathway is an invasive weed that’s displacing indigenous plants, and thus stealing resources from songbirds and other species.

Human intervention also plays a role. Although the land—and any newly accreted land—is protected by the 1991 agreement with

the Land Trust, some homeowners want to trim the forest where it abuts their property. A 2010 lawsuit against the town is still being mediated, and a compromise may include a transition zone that allows for more aggressive pruning in the area of the forest closest to the homes.

Although conservationist Dias sees any efforts to reduce the size of the established forest as shortsighted, he celebrates the fact that much of the wooded area adjacent to National Park Service-owned Fort Moultrie is safe from chainsaws.

“This forest on Sullivan’s Island reminds me of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park or New York’s Central Park, where a city is smart enough to set aside protected lands for recreation and wildlife,” Dias explains, adding that in this case, the wide forest serves as a powerful natural buffer from a hurricane’s storm surge. “Protecting this was a visionary move in 1991.”

Although Hurricane Hugo in 1989 did cause devastation on Sullivan’s Island, its effects could have been even worse without a healthy dune and forest ecosystem. In fact, it was after that storm that the people of the island came together to protect their growing natural asset. Thanks to that generation, today’s community leaders like O’Neil, Khoury and Dias hope to pass on an appreciation for the maritime forest to the next generation.

“Too many children today have what I call ‘nature deficit disorder,’” Dias says. “We need to get our kids’ faces out of screens and into the woods to run and play.”

With 200 acres in their backyard, who knows? Maybe the next Winnie the Pooh will emerge from the imagination of a young writer from Sullivan’s Island.

The College Coaches Club

BETWEEN THEM, SULLIVAN’S ISLAND AND ISLE OF PALMS BOAST A HEALTHY COLLECTION OF RETIRED COLLEGE FOOTBALL COACHES (AND ONE BASKETBALL COACH). A COUPLE OF THURSDAYS EVERY MONTH, THIS CADRE OF COACHES GATHER TOGETHER WITH FELLOW SPORTING ALUMNI AT PAGE’S OKRA GRILL TO CHEW THE FAT AND ENJOY THE COFFEE. JENNIFER TUOHY GOT A CHANCE TO JOIN THEM ONE MORNING. PHOTOS BY STEVE

ROSAMILIA

.

COLLEGE. SPORTING. RIVALRY.

Three words with the power to divide a state, infuse pride into a city, unite a stadium and galvanize a team. But at Page’s Okra Grill every other Thursday, those powerful words don’t come between these college coaches and their grits.

It’s at this casual eatery on Coleman Boulevard that a remarkable group of men assemble from across greater Charleston every other week. They gather together to enjoy each other’s company, share in the stories of the literally countless glory days they have all experienced, and revel in the trials and tribulations of coaching college sports.

The group, which calls themselves VOCAL, numbers around 16 and includes a former American League Baseball President (Gene Budig), National Wrestling Hall of Famer (Ed Steers), head football

From left, Les Robinson, Bobby Johnson, Tom O’Brien, Ralph Friedgen, Fisher DeBerry, Paul Scarpa, Cal McCombs and Tommy McQueeney, at Page’s Okra Grill’s community table.

coach of Princeton (Frank Navarro), CofC basketball coach (Bobby Cremins), director of the Baseball Hall of Fame (Dr. Harvey Schiller), The Citadel assistant football coach (Rusty Hamilton), and the current Athletic Director at The Citadel (Jim Senter).

On this particular morning six VOCAL members, including an SEC football Coach of the Year (Bobby Johnson, Vanderbilt), winningest tennis coach in NCAA history (Paul Scarpa, Furman), NCAA basketball selection committee alum coach (Les Robinson, North Carolina State), NFL scout (Cal McCombs, Denver Broncos), ACC Champion football coach (Ralph Friedgen, Maryland) and a College Football Hall of Fame inductee (Fisher DeBerry, Air Force), stay behind after the pancakes have been consumed. They’ve graciously agreed to talk with this writer because they share another trait. They all live on Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms (well, Paul lives in Snee Farm, but it’s so close we’ll give him a pass).

“Venerable Old Coaches Association, Loitering,” is what the name stands for, says Tommy McQueeney, the group’s organizer and former youth basketball coach.

“Really? I thought it was Very Old Coaches Acting Looney?” Bobby says.

As I sit down with this terrifyingly successful assemblage, I draw frantically on my limited football coaching knowledge (“My mom was friends with Steve Spurrier in college,” I say. “We’ll try not to hold it against you,” comes the response).

Thankfully I’m not the only newbie here, Tom O'Brien, the very recently retired head football coach at North Carolina State and former coach at Boston College is on just his second visit and ends up joining our roundtable somewhat unwittingly.

“Bobby told me the rules are if you bring a guest he can’t pay for breakfast the first time,” Tom says. “But that the second time you pay for everyone...”

Les Robinson quickly interjects that Tom actually lives on Daniel Island.

“I CAN SEE THE HEADLINE NOW, ‘ISLE OF PALMS COFFEE CLUB PRODUCES SUPER BOWL CHAMP.’” BOBBY JOHNSON

“All the football coaches live on Daniel Island and Isle of Palms. Football coaches aren’t allowed on Sullivan’s,” says the lone basketball coach.

“We didn't make enough money to live on Sullivan’s,” Fisher DeBerry replies.

In case you hadn’t noticed, this group takes no prisoners. Teasing, riffing and joking are all on the menu, along with the occasional wry reference to West Virginia (ask Les next time you see him).

The lone native Charlestonian among the college coaches is Paul Scarpa; the rest found their way here by happy accident. Bobby Johnson married a Charleston girl (“They always come back home,” he says). Ralph and Cal both coached football at The Citadel between 1973 and 1983, where Les also coached basketball (’74 to ’85) and was Citadel Athletic Director from 2000 through 2008.

“The toughest part of that job was dealing with the football coaches,” he says with no deference to present company.

“Yeah,” Ralph bounces back. “They’re so much smarter than the basketball coaches, that’s for sure.”

All three men were clever enough to portion out enough of their Citadel salaries for a smart and early investment in property out on Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island.

“I bought my home in ’77 for $37,000,” Ralph says. “From Tommy Baker, who owns all the car dealerships.”

Les bought his first lot on Sullivan’s in ’73 for $7,500, behind what is now Dunleavy’s.

“They must have heard you moved in,” Ralph says with a trademark booming laugh, referencing his friend’s frequent attendance at the Irish pub. “Everyone knows my name at Dunleavy’s,” Les agrees.

All three have lived here ever since, and marvel at the changes they've seen on the islands.

“Since they put in that connector the island has just grown,” Ralph says. “When we bought our house, Wild Dunes wasn’t there, there were 11-foot alligators instead. That piece of property was wild.”

Fisher first came to Charleston a few years later, in 1987. He was on a recruiting trip with Cal.

While some of the coaches have “lived” here for a long time, and others such as Bobby and Tom, chose to retire here, it’s only now that any of them are able to spend any quality time here.

“I estimated once that I was in a hotel 225 nights a year,” Cal says, referring to his time as an NFL scout. But the rest of the group also cite time away from home as probably the hardest element of being a college athletics coach. Surely the intense pressure of the role has also got to be on that list, I ask.

“No, that's part of the fun!” Ralph says. But how do you handle all that pressure?

“We all have good wives,” Fisher says to general chuckles of agreement.

I speculate that perhaps this Thursday morning breakfast club was encouraged by the wives, who are now rather surprised to find their husbands at home all the time. It turns out it came from a game of golf.

“We like to play golf together,” Ralph says. “Some of us fish together.”

Do you ever all get together to watch football?

“No, but they all got together and coached football together—the Medal of Honor Bowl,” Tommy McQueeney says. Tommy is the chairman of the Medal of Honor Bowl, and says the idea for the all-star game featuring the nation’s top draft-eligible college football players actually grew out of the breakfast club, with many of the retired coaches lending their expertise to the two year-old event played at The Citadel.

“The player who intercepted the pass in this year’s Super Bowl to win the game played in the first Medal of Honor Bowl, Malcolm Butler,” Tommy says, with obvious pride.

“I can see the headline now, ‘Isle of Palms coffee club produces Super Bowl champ,’” Bobby posits.

The conversation moves to the number of places each man has coached during his career. Ralph starts to run down his lengthy resume, “A couple of times at Georgia Tech, Maryland two different times, San Diego Chargers…”

“Some people just can’t keep a job,” interjects Les to a chorus of laughter.

Then heads turn to Fisher who, although he coached at three different schools, holds the record for longest tenure at Air Force, where he coached for 27 seasons—23 as head coach. That’s a long time for a football coach.

“It’s an eternity,” he says.

What’s the secret to staying in one place for over a quarter of a century?

“Staying out of everybody’s way.”

“I'll tell you in one word,” Les interjects.

“W-I-N-N-I-N-G.”

And Fisher did, clocking 169 victories and a winning percentage of .608, an Air Force record, earning him a spot in the College Football Hall of Fame.

When it comes to winning however, Paul Scarpa has the rest of the group beat hands down, having won 853 tennis matches in his 45-year career at Furman University. A record in the NCAA.

With all this combined sporting knowledge present I can’t help but sneak in one quick personal question. I have a 7 yearold son, I tell the group. He’s great at soccer, an awesome tennis player and he really loves football. Which sport would you advise I “encourage” him in?

Unanimously, almost simultaneously, they say:

“TENNIS.”

DRIVEN BY

BY THE WIND

Embracing the power of the wind as they fly high off the coast of our barrier islands, kiteboarders have gravitated to the Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Islands where a tight-knit community has taken root. By Alejandro Ferreyros. Photos by Steve Rosamilia and Scott Walton.

“Kiteboarding

in Charleston exemplifies the true meaning of kiteboarding, which is having fun and spreading the stoke.”

Daniel Ware

Local kiters Josh Walton and Jonn Myers walking their kites down wind. Photo by Scott Walton.

For centuries humans have sought to fly. From Icarus to the Wright brothers, the pursuit of a mastery of the skies has long driven both adrenaline and innovation. Here on Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms however, you can find men and women flying high on an almost daily basis, whenever the wind is in their favor.

Kiteboarding, a fusion of wakeboarding, windsurfing and surfing, is one of the hottest and fastest growing watersports around. The sport is exploding here in Charleston because, unlike most other places along the East Coast, you can ride the waters here no matter which way the wind is blowing. Days when it blows onshore, kiters will congregate on Sullivan’s Island and IOP, where flat water spots and wave riding is dominant. When the wind clocks around to an offshore direction, the Charleston Harbor will burst with colorful kites as kiters seek secret little sandbars that expose themselves at low tide, providing perfect flatwater without the hassle of currents.

“Whether you are a hero riding in front of tourists on the beach, jumping through the air in front of Charleston’s historic Battery, or enjoying a secluded flatwater session with friends at a secret harbor spot, there is something for every rider on just about every day of the year on the waters around this windy city,” kiter Kellen Smith says.

The roots of kiteboarding run deep in Charleston. Kiters have been “shredding” out here since the early ‘00s (the sport is about 20 years old, having started during the 1990s). With the only kiteboarding shop in Charleston being here on Middle Street, the kiteboarding community naturally congregates on our islands. Of course the flat waters at Sullivan’s Island legendary Station 28 1/2 and the rolling waves on IOP, which offer up some of the best conditions for kiteboarding in the area, help some. The combination has turned the sport into a way of life for lucky kiters who call these islands home.

The kiting community here is a close-knit one, as sharing in the same passion brings people of all ages and all backgrounds together.

“I’ve yet to experience the sense of community felt in the Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms kiteboarding scene in any other sport,” Daniel Ware says, who has been kiting on the

Aaron Walton glides over the flat waters of Station 28 1/2. Photo by Scott Walton.

“The local kiters are a great group that look out for each other and others like a big, happy family.”

Scott Hyland

islands since he was 16. “Everyone knows each other, and you’re always riding with friends. Kiteboarding in Charleston exemplifies the true meaning of the sport, which is having fun and spreading the stoke.”

The community is essential to each kiter. As with any extreme sport, kiteboarding has its risks—having buddies nearby to lend a hand when something goes wrong is an integral part of the sport. Shea Gibson, a local meteorologist and the “wind guru” for iKitesurf.com, runs a Facebook group for kiters to help with forecasting, share experiences, report lost and founds and keep the entire community updated on local, national, even international events in the kiting community.

“You’re never kiting alone on Sullivan’s Island,” Scott Hyland, owner of Sealand Adventure Sports, the kiteboarding shop on Middle Street, says. “The local kiters are a great group that look out for each other and others like a big, happy family.”

While known as an extreme sport, kiting can be attempted by any age or experience level, as long as you have the right equipment and a certified instructor. Anyone from age 10 to 80 can try their hand at flying above the ocean, powered by the wind—as long as you can swim, you can learn to kite.

“I look at kiteboarding on Sullivan’s as a privilege,” Hyland says. “I look forward to many more years of enjoying one of the best kite spots on the East Coast.”

Left: Scott Hyland, jumping and pulling off a “board grab” prior to landing. Page 52: Daniel Ware, a certified instructor, and Tylor Phillips head out for a “shred sesh” on Sullivan’s Island.

Photos by Steve Rosamilia.

COASTAL SAVIORS

The history of the U.S. Life-Saving Service on Sullivan’s Island is tightly interwoven with the history of Charleston itself. Without it, Mayor Joe Riley would not exist, nor would countless others whose ancestors were saved by the crew at Station 18. As the National Park Service prepares to honor this heritage with a new museum in the old boathouse, Stratton Lawrence dives into the stories of the coastal saviors of Sullivan’s Island. Photos by Hunter McRae

“Coming into the Charleston Harbor Friday night under the direction of a coast pilot, he made an error and instead of going up the main channel to Charleston, mistook a red light on Sullivan’s Island and steered for that light.”

Thus begins a letter by Whitney Case of Buffalo, New York, to Rear Admiral Dallard of the U.S. Coast Guard, dated November 26, 1924.

After taking the wrong turn and anchoring in the dark, Case was approached by a “very small row boat” navigating “heavy rolling” seas. The rower was Vincent Oswald Coste of the Coast Guard station on Sullivan’s Island, headed out to warn Case of the outgoing tide. Before Case could lift his anchor, however, a gale blew in and broke the chain, sending the boat adrift.

“Coste came out to the boat again and gave us very valuable aid,” Case wrote. “He would not leave the boat all night although…the wind was being driven higher and higher on the beach and pounding severely…I wished to pay him for his help but he would not accept any money whatsoever, saying that it was his duty to give what ever aid under such circumstances that he could.”

That rescue account is one of hundreds that occurred along the shores of Sullivan’s Island between 1895 and 1973, and their stories and legacy may soon be shared in a museum currently in the works on the island.

In today’s world of GPS-equipped cell phones and Sea Tow memberships, it’s easy to take for granted that time on the water wasn’t always so safe and convenient. And in the lowcountry of South Carolina, there’s no better reminder of our ocean and rivers’ potential treachery than the well-preserved Historic Coast Guard District at 1815 Ion Avenue on Sullivan’s Island.

Although the iconic, black-and-white lighthouse (built in 1962) at the site garners most of the attention from visitors’ cameras, it’s the buildings below that tell an even more compelling story. Remarkably intact for century-old oceanfront structures, the quarters and boathouse of the U.S. Life-Saving Service play an integral role in both the history of Sullivan’s Island and the city of Charleston.

Without their existence, Charleston Mayor Joe Riley’s grandfather would have perished as a 12-year-old boy in 1898. He was rescued by the “surfmen” of the Life-Saving Service, one of whom lost his own life while struggling in the heavy surf. Without that sacrifice, Charleston may have never experienced the resurgence it’s enjoyed during Riley’s 40 years in office.

MORE THAN A BOATHOUSE

Recognizing that more needed to be done to save the lives of sailors (and protect seafaring commerce) at the end of the 19th century, the federal government established the U.S. Life-Saving Service in 1878. Most stations were built in states where colder water meant lower survival rates after shipwrecks, primarily along the New England and Great Lakes coasts.

Previous Page: Hal Coste and Timothy Stone stand in the recently renovated Historic Coast Guard District Boathouse. Plans are afoot to turn the building into a museum dedicated to the U.S. Life-Saving Service.

The government’s initial plan to construct stations every three miles along the entire East Coast never materialized, but in 1886, South Carolina’s only life-saving station was established on Morris Island. Its distance from the harbor’s mouth prompted its relocation to Sullivan’s Island in 1895.

The station’s boathouse was modeled after identical structures in Michigan and crewed by six surfmen and a captain. Their first rescue occurred just six days after the station opened, when nine people

“There are buildings like this in Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout, Cape Cod, Assateague, and the Sleeping Bear Dunes, but there isn’t anything else like this in South Carolina.”

TIMOTHY STONE

aboard the Catboat “TK” were brought ashore after the ship lost its rudder. The same year, the surfmen refloated a Norwegian ship that ran ashore in the Stono Inlet south of Folly Island. From overturned dinghys in Breach Inlet to ships hitting sandbars in Charleston Harbor, the surfmen of Sullivan’s Island were kept busy.

It was from this boathouse in 1898 that surfman James Coste swam out to rescue a drowning boy, Ned Schachte. Sadly, the 24-year-old Coste perished in the waves, but his fellow surfmen who followed were able to safely bring young Schachte to shore.

“Ned Schachte grew venturesome and went out far beyond where the surf broke to find himself in water over his head and being carried out to sea,” wrote Charleston’s The Evening Post at the time of the incident. “Instead of following the current … and swimming to shore (Coste) attempted to swim across and it swept him away.”

Fortuitously, Schachte’s oldest grandson grew up to be Mayor Joe Riley. Likewise, James Coste’s sacrifice inspired his brother, Vincent, to join the Life-Saving Service. It became a family calling, even after the Revenue Cutter Service and Life-Saving Service combined in 1915 to form the U.S. Coast Guard.

As a U.S. Coast Guard base, the boathouse kept as many as 12 sailors and rescue workers employed. Between July 1936 and July 1937 alone, 112 cases of assistance were reported there. In 1939, the base enjoyed a $27,000 overhaul, including raising the quarters’ lookout tower.

By 1961, however, the federal government determined that the base was no longer needed, and not worth the cost of dredging the creek behind the island and maintaining the boathouse and quarters. Facing its imminent closing, the communities of Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island rallied to preserve it.

“To cite examples of how much the Coast Guard Station and the personnel have done for us in the past, and how much they will do for us in the future, would be like bringing coal to Newcastle, because everyone is aware of the tremendous job they have done…” read a letter to the Coast Guard by Isle of Palms’ mayor S.V. Sottile, citing the station’s role in shuttling citizens, freight and mail across the harbor “when the Cooper River Bridge was damaged by a freighter” and “when impassable due to ice.”

The islanders’ efforts succeeded, but only for another dozen years. In 1973, the base was shut down after 82 years in operation. Custodianship was passed to the National Park Service in 1989, and the boathouse became a carpentry shop and storage shed. It wasn’t until 2013, when the Coast Guard awarded James Coste’s descendants with a Silver Lifesaving Medal for their ancestor’s bravery, that the boathouse’s future began to brighten, literally.

A MONUMENT TO BRAVERY

Entering the boathouse today, it’s hard to believe the building has weathered hurricanes and the nearby ocean for 120 years.

“This building is solid,” Hal Coste says, the greatnephew of surfman James Coste, with a smile. “It’s in really good shape.”

Coste should know—he’s built a career restoring historic homes in Charleston, but he found a passion project restoring the “wavy glass” windows on the boathouse.

After the ceremony honoring the Coste family, Hal began a friendship with Fort Sumter National Monument superintendent Timothy Stone, sparking the idea that the

This image from Hal Coste’s family archive shows surfmen launching their life boat.

Hal Coste holds an age-worn image of his grandfather and his crew.

Timothy Stone, Capt. Michael F. White, Hal Coste and Mayor Joe Riley at a ceremony honoring James Coste in 2013.

boathouse could one day be a museum for the public to learn about the history of the U.S. Life-Saving Service.

“It was at that point that I realized the history of this place,” Stone recalls. “There are buildings like this in Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout, Cape Cod, Assateague, and the Sleeping Bear Dunes, but there isn’t anything else like this in South Carolina.”

Stone envisioned a museum that would house a model 20-foot lifeboat like the ones that used to hang from the ceiling via a pulley system, with exhibits for the public about the life of the surfmen and the importance of the Life-Saving Service.

That dream has almost come to fruition. A sign now stands outside the building explaining its history, and in late 2013, the building was cleared of its decades’ worth of stored clutter. It was then treated to a new coat of paint in the original mustard yellow and “Boathouse Green” colors that were found at the base after chipping away at subsequent layers of paint.

“It’s hard to understand, unless you were here before, what shape this building was in,” Stone says of the condition before its recent restoration. “There was junk everywhere.”

Fortunately, a structural analysis supported Coste’s initial evaluation—the building was indeed solid and able to be renovated.

Coste points out the bead board walls, installed as an alternative to plaster to prevent cracking when guns were fired in the vicinity. He remembers when the boathouse had a pool table during the 1950s, doubling as a hangout spot for the sailors stationed there. His grandfather, Vincent, served as the station’s commander during the 1920s, and his aunt was born on-site.

Coste also served as a lifeguard on Isle of Palms as a youth, continuing a family tradition that dates as far back as his greatgreat-grandfather, Napoleon Coste, who was assigned responsibility for determining the placement of every lighthouse south of the Chesapeake Bay following the Civil War.

GENERATIONAL HISTORY

When the boathouse officially opens to the public, the Coste family will be a strong presence, thanks to a wealth of newspaper clippings and photographs saved in Hal’s workshop that detail the base’s history. Among those stories, for generations to come, will be the sad day when James Coste perished but Ned Schachte was spared, paving the way for a new Charleston under Mayor Joe Riley.

The Schachtes will be there too. Chris Schachte, the greatgrandson of Ned and first cousin once removed of Mayor Riley, recalls hearing the story of the fateful family rescue on a regular basis as a child on Sullivan’s Island.

“It was partially as a remembrance, and also as a warning to be careful,” Schachte says, who now lives with his wife on James Island. He adds that the friendships between the Schachte and the Coste family have persisted through multiple generations.

“Both families are still closely connected to the island,” he says. “It’s amazing to think about how the loss of one life and the saving of another can have a profound effect that echoes down through the generations. If things had not played out the way they had, my family tree would have taken a different shape, and I wouldn’t exist.”

That lesson will be conveyed to both Sullivan’s Islanders and visitors once the museum is completed. Stone expects that it will be open on weekends, and although there is no timeline for a finished project, he hopes it’ll occur in the next year, dependent upon budget.

In the meantime, the Park Service plans to open the newly restored boathouse for special events and storytelling exhibits, including on National Lighthouse Day, August 7.

“There’s a real human aspect to this place,” Stone says, standing atop the lookout of the Life-Saving Service’s quarters and admiring the grounds. “The stories remind us that every person’s life can influence a lot of other lives.”

A fighting chance A fighting chance

The life of a baby turtle is often short. These tiny, defenseless creatures face many dangers and giant obstacles on their precarious path to adulthood. Our dedicated Turtle Team on the islands works very hard to ensure the hatchlings emerge and make it to the ocean. Lori McGee discovers what the team gets up to on the beach before dawn.

Photos by Barbara Bergwerf

The firsT official “ island TurTle Team ”

gaThering was in 1997.

Then, a handful of intrepid volunteers divided up the beaches of Sullivan’s and Isle of Palms into eight sections, setting out on foot every morning from May through September to track turtles. As the whole beach was not covered, many nests may have been missed. Today, there are 170 members of the Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island Turtle Team, each of whom dedicates time and incredible eyesight to a task that has increased the success rate of hatched turtle eggs from a dismal 10 percent to up to 90 percent.

“We sometimes are tempted to feel that the turtles couldn’t get along without the Turtle Team,” Mary Pringle, head of the Islands Turtle Team, says with a smile. “Of course they have been successfully reproducing for over 100 million years.”

However, we’ve only been around for a couple thousand years, and the presence of humans has drastically altered the nesting habitat of turtles.

“On our highly developed beaches there are lights from houses, streetlights and even a glowing sky from the City of Charleston that confuse and disorient hatchlings and discourage nesting females from crawling ashore,” Pringle says. Sea turtles spend their entire lives in the ocean, with only the females ever coming ashore, doing so a few times every two or three years to nest. The infrequency of their land escapades has led to little adaptation by the species to the presence of humans. Not so long ago there was a strong possibility that sea turtles would become extinct. Thanks in part to the efforts of hundreds of turtle teams all along the coasts, the ancient reptiles now have a fighting chance.

There are a total of seven species of sea turtle, and every type that swims around North America is designated either endangered or threatened. South Carolina’s beaches most commonly host female Loggerhead turtles, whose distinctive tracks the Turtle Team seeks out and follows in order to locate the nest the morning after they’ve laid eggs. Thanks to training with South Carolina Department of Natural Resources, the team is able to excavate and relocate eggs when needed, a procedure that can only be done in a 12-hour window after an egg deposit, and a rare authorization currently granted to seven volunteers.

From May to October, the Turtle Team patrols daily to protect the nests as the eggs

The 170 members of the Islands Turtle Team are led by this core team of seven. From top Tee Johannes, Mary Alice Monroe, Barb Gobien, Beverly Ballow, Linda Rumph, Mary Pringle, and Barbara Bergwerf. The team has proven so popular in its 18 years that there is currently a waiting list for new members. Photo by Steve Rosamilia.

will spot these signs throughout the turtle season. The tiny tracks surrounding this one indicate that its inhabitants left during the night.

incubate. The first half of the season they’re looking for the tracks of egg-laying moms, checking the safety of nest locations, noting the date and marking the nest for protection. During the latter half of the season it’s tinier tracks they’re trying to find—evidence that sixty or so days have passed and the hatchlings, often upwards of 100 per nest, are on their way out to sea. Three days after the nest first hatches, the team returns for an inventory procedure, which includes helping any struggling hatchlings, collecting maternal DNA samples from a single eggshell and calculating the final hatch count.

The hatch data and genetic material goes to a variety of organizations that track the health of the local population. An initiative at the University of Georgia identifies specific mothers, tallying whether she’s a return visitor or has nests across states. This research has led to the creation of a turtle family tree for some specimens, identifying connections between turtle sisters, daughters, mothers and even a famed turtle grandmother still laying eggs at around 90 years old.

Because turtles lay multiple nests in a season, the Turtle Team often recognizes a specific animal based on track or nest characteristics. Ten years ago there was a recurrence of nests with broken eggs on the surface rather than buried under the sand.

“At first we thought she was careless, but thirteen days later it happened again. When it came time for her to nest a third time, we found her trying to nest and saw that half of her left rear flipper had been bitten off, most likely by a shark attack,” Pringle says. “Since they use these for digging the egg chamber, she was unable to dig the usual depth of 24 inches for her nest.”

The team removed her eggs before she could crush them, buried them again in a proper hole and repeated the process for the remainder of her nests, nicknaming her Stumpy. Her hatchlings were healthy, and two even went to Riverbanks Zoo to be used for educational purposes before being released.

While encouraging female turtles’ reproductive efforts to ensure the long term survival of the species is its primary purpose, the Turtle Team also aids sick or injured turtles that wash up on its turf. Three members of the team hold “stranding permits” that allow them to transport live sick or injured turtles to the South Carolina Aquarium’s sea turtle hospital and to document dead sea turtles with online reports and photos. If and when a turtle is successfully rehabilitated, the team is able to be a part of its release back into the wild. These releases occur several times throughout the summer season, often at the Isle of Palms County Park, and are a wonderful moment for the team to reflect on the completion of the supported, successful life cycle of the sea turtles that they protect.

Remember - lights out for turtles - leave only your footprints in the sand - fill the holes you dig - never touch a turtle

Beachgoers

Tee Johannes, a longtime team member, holds a baby turtle during an inventory.

HOW TO BUILD A TURTLE HOSPITAL

Fifteen years ago, the South Carolina Aquarium admitted the first turtle into a hospital that didn’t exist. As of 2015, 157 sick and injured sea turtles are now swimming in the wild following treatment and rehabilitation in the evolving basement accommodations that constitute the aquarium’s sea turtle hospital.

The successful rehabilitation of the facility’s first leatherback turtle this summer highlighted the urgency of its current project, to build a cutting-edge sea turtle hospital that will put the aquarium in the front row of marine animal rescue and conservation efforts, not just in South Carolina but across the country.

Weighing in at 475 pounds, the leatherback’s treatment underscored the need for more medical equipment and better facilities. The six-year Watershed campaign to raise $25 million to construct the new hospital and secure the future of the Aquarium through an endowment fund was launched in April 2014. Meanwhile, construction of the new Sea Turtle Hospital expects to break ground in 2016, thanks to early contributors.

The Zucker family took the lead by contributing $3 million to the Watershed Fund, with over 80 percent earmarked for the hospital. Determined to kick off construction and be a part of the best turtle hospital in the country, the Zuckers also

hope to inspire others to contribute.

The new hospital will be a highlight exhibit on the main floor of the aquarium and big enough to accommodate the growing number of patients already being referred as well as allowing the 450,000 annual aquarium visitors to share a sea turtle’s hospital experience. The existing facility is so small only 15,000 people have been allowed into the hospital each year. Strategically located “one way” glass will correct this problem, without the associated stress to the turtles that much attention would bring. Kelly Thorvalson, Sea Turtle Rescue Program Manager, is particularly enthusiastic about the “endless tank” that will function as a sort of treadmill for recovering turtles.

Mary Alice Monroe, author and the aquarium’s Watershed Ambassador stated, “The time is now to support the expanded sea turtle hospital. Remember, this is our state’s only sea turtle hospital. We anticipate a lot of turtles this year and that means more patients. I hope you’ll join me in helping to build this much needed, state of the art hospital for our beloved sea turtles.”

To learn more about how you can help build a state-of-the-art sea turtle hospital visit scaquarium.org/STH-expand.

—Gregg Bragg

Mary Pringle and Bev Ballow rescuing “Jammer” in 2011. Following many months of care and rehabilitation at the aquarium’s hospital, Jammer was released back into the wild. Not coincidentally, the turtle became the inspiration behind the team’s annual fundraising event Jammin’ for Jammer, held at The Windjammer on IOP. This year it’s scheduled for September 23.

PORCH Perspective

For those from off, island life typically conjures up sandy footprints and damp swimsuits. For those who reside in paradise, there’s a rhythm to the small community—an openness and a dismissal of formality, while still recognizing the history behind homes. Nowhere does this combination manifest itself more than on the many and varied porches of Sullivan’s Island. Margaret Pilarski invites you to take a seat and stay awhile on four perfect porches. Photos by Steve Rosamilia

“The porches are like the petticoats of this grand home— they wrap the entire house, encircling all four sides.”

HISTORY REBORN

West Coast transplant Jennifer Moriarty’s home on Ion Avenue is one of the historic Officer’s Quarter structures built in the 1800s, but perhaps more notable, it’s the 18th restoration project she and her husband have undertaken together in 25 years of marriage.

The details of the home speak to the couple’s expertise: “The porches are like the petticoats of this grand home—they wrap the entire house, encircling all four sides. And within each porch is a surprise of thickly picketed railings, 100 year-old pine flooring, ten-foot French doors that open onto formal spaces and old, pocked brass door knobs.”

The couple restored the home to its former glory by replicating and replacing shutters and screen doors, stripping paint to reveal pine, and designing a tropical landscape to set off the home’s austere lines. “Porch life is snuggling up under a colorful Kantha, soaking up the sun with our dogs after a beach walk or relaxing with dinner after working in the garden,” Moriarty says.

“In the quiet of the night, sitting on the top step of the porch, moon-andstargazing, the sounds of my soul co-mingle with the whispering sea and whippoorwill calls and all is well.”

MEMORIES OF PAST AND PRESENT

The pink house is proof of poetry, because owner Alice Timmons Morrisey isn’t short on wonderment of the universe when she’s got birdsong in the evening and waning moons in the morning. “In the quiet of the night, sitting on the top step of the porch, moon-andstargazing, the sounds of my soul co-mingle with the whispering sea and whippoorwill calls and all is well,” she says

The house itself represents home to Alice in other ways: “It’s a simple beach cottage, and the palmetto frond and shell wreath hanging on the porch characterizes my life: simple, natural, and beachy,” she explains. “My deceased husband’s last name, Morrisey, is Irish Gaelic for ‘sea choice,’ and sitting on the porch reminds me that no matter what the day has brought me, I have come home. Since his death eight years ago, I feel his presence as I gaze from the porch into the heavens, feeling that heaven is both above and below.”

By day Alice stands at those same stairs to commune with Lola, her Labradoodle. “This way Lola and I get the opportunity to greet neighbors and passersby. We often move from street to yard to porch, as neighbors ‘sit a spell’ and we continue to throw Lola’s ball for her.”

“The porch is often used as a place to regroup after a run, an exhausting day, or just to sit before rejoining the realities of the day.”

SANDY FLOORS, SLOW LIFE

For Katie Abraham and her family, the porch is a pleasing place to pass the time, its simple setting underscoring the need for just a moment of silence. “Aesthetically I love the understated architecture, the weathered front door and the rough wooden floorboards. I adore our locally purchased swing and the heavy Adirondack chairs that remind me of New England. But even more than all of that, I love that our little porch has a magical way of slowing life down the moment your feet touch the sandy floors,” she says. “The porch is often used as a place to regroup after a run, an exhausting day, or just to sit before re-joining the realities of the day. The other day, I found my six-yearold swinging out on the porch by himself with a bag of Pirate’s Booty. When I asked him what he was doing out there, he said, ‘Having some me-time.’”

When they moved here from Georgia, Abraham was adamant about keeping the yard sale-sourced wooden planters even though she’d disposed with half their other worldly goods. “I knew those little guys needed a special place. I keep saying I will repaint them but I secretly like the chipping paint and their shabby, cottage look.” The allure isn’t lost on others, either. Abraham says strangers stop by all the time for photos. “There is just something about this porch. At first, I was taken aback, but after almost a year on the island it doesn’t faze me. I get it, it’s just that cute.”

“The genius addition of an architectural door mat to this very unique building can be credited to a builder named Robert Graves. He obviously borrowed from the Charleston single house design.”

BACKING AWAY

Within the Fort Moultrie Quartermaster and Support Facilities

Historic District is a unique sight: a Charleston single homestyle piazza. More often seen on the historic streets of downtown Charleston, builder Robert Graves took influences of the peninsula’s porches and then added what owner Caroline Pennington calls an “architectural welcome mat” to the Sullivan’s Island’s home’s exterior. Originally, the historic piazzas of downtown were situated along the length of homes to take advantage of local winds while maintaining privacy behind what appeared to be a front door. Yet the juxtaposition of the Charleston-style piazza on the island is even more intriguing when the original building’s use is taken into consideration: In 1905 the structure was built as Fort Moultrie’s Ordnance Storage Building and Office. Today the owners say the porch gets most of its use from more modern-day meetings and storage—that of UPS or FedEx delivery drivers dropping packages for the family. Situated on a main drag of Sullivan’s, Pennington says that wandering tourists are often curious about why the porch has a front door. Obviously they haven’t explored Broad Street yet.

COCKTAILS & PATIOS

Most of the hours spent on Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms are happy ones—so why contain happy hour to a strict time limit? SiP’s deputy editor, Margaret Pilarski, takes you on a tour of the signature cocktails on the island that can be paired with picturesque patios. Grab a friend, or three, and soak up the sun, take in the views and set your clock to island time. Photos by Steve Rosamilia

POE’S TAVERN

This iconic burger joint inspired by literary legend Edgar Allan Poe’s stay on Sullivan’s Island, is a solid spot for a beer, but their new cocktail list has a variety of options for those seeking a stronger swill. The Tito’s vodka cocktails are all served in embossed copper mugs—the award-winning Charleston Sipper is tart and strong, with grapefruit juice and club soda, but it’s buffered by a sweetly sugared rim so that each sip has a little sparkle. Poe’s Tavern’s charming outdoor seating is bordered by a white picket fence and blooming flowers, making this reliable neighborhood favorite as comfortable as your own front yard. Plus, your neighbor will probably stroll by and end up joining you for a round. Better order two.

SALT AT STATION 22

Salt at Station 22 is a stunner of a space— and the cocktails don’t disappoint either. The airy, vaulted deck has prime spots for perching and people-watching passersby along Middle Street, as well as community tables for the sizable group of friends that will inevitably want to come along. Our tipple of choice here was the highly recommended Londonberry—a summery mix of St. Germain, Creme Yvette, crushed mint and fresh blueberries. Oh, and Bombay Sapphire gin, of course. Don’t be deceived by the ladylike look of this cocktail though, The Londonberry is a strong contender for the best way to celebrate five o’clock. And six o’clock. And seven o’clock.

HIGH THYME

The deck at High Thyme is no stranger to high spirits—it overlooks Middle Street and has unobstructed access to the sunshine, but is narrow enough to still feel casual and intimate. Tables for two and four dot the deck, which gets full by 7 p.m. High Wire Distillery’s Hat Trick Botanical Gin is featured in The High Society cocktail, which is complemented by St. Germain, muddled cucumber, club soda and a lime. A refreshing antidote to a long day, this light delight is a frisky nod to the Charleston-based distillery without taking the whole tour and keeps you cool as a cucumber even when the SPF is out.

CODA DEL PESCE

This authentic Italian spot is tucked upstairs along Isle Of Palms’ Front Beach and is a more intimate place to tuck into a well-crafted cocktail. The Coda Spritzer is a sprightly sip made with bianco vermouth, limoncello and dry prosecco—evidence of an adherence to the old country’s ingredients. Take that heavenly spritzer out on the patio where the vine-entwined deck gives you a straight-shot view of waves rolling in. Community tables and intimate two-tops make this an ideal spot to start the evening.

THE BOATHOUSE

Evenings at The Boathouse are an easy choice: The restaurant boasts a walkway strung with twinkling lights that is one of the few places to grab a drink and watch the sun set over the water from a west-facing vantage point, in this case, where multiple creeks come together at Breach Inlet. Climb the stairs and find a second small bar for catching the breeze and settling in with the bartender or at a deck-top table. Get in the island mood with a Boat Breeze, a beachy concoction of Malibu Rum, Myer’s Dark Rum, pineapple and orange juices and a splash of grenadine. Water views and a generous pour of rum go hand-in-hand, best to just go with the flow.

MORGAN CREEK GRILL

At the far north end of Isle of Palms sits Morgan Creek Grill—arrive by boat, car or golf cart, and make your way to any number of outdoor areas. There are slightly covered patios, wide walkways with sunset-facing tables and plenty of seating for friends and families or gossipy groups of gal pals—whatever form your drinkmates take, they’ll go gaga for a Cadillac margarita. The classic tequila cocktail is amped up by bartenders with Patron, freshly squeezed lemon, lime and orange juices, simple syrup and a Grand Marnier float. This summertime favorite is a punchy mix of citrus, smooth liquors and a salty rim—just what the doctor ordered for drinks on a well-loved, windwhipped patio. Just get there in time to order a second one to coincide with the spectacular sunset views.

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

At a little over 10 miles long, at most a half-mile wide and surrounded by deep blue water, the daisy-chained communities of Sullivan's and Isle of Palms have limited scope for growth. Meaning when a new business does open it’s quite an event. In case you missed any, Kathryn Casey has rounded up the establishments that opened their doors on the barrier islands in 2014.

THE OBSTINATE DAUGHTER

Middle Street, Sullivan’s, opened March Voted best Sullivan’s Island restaurant in 2015, this Italian-infused eatery is full of local flavor both in the ingredients and the name, which is a reference to a Revolutionary War-era political cartoon that mocked the stubborn defenders of Charleston.

BEARDCAT’S SWEET SHOP

Middle Street, Sullivan’s, opened March Offering 20 different homemade gelato flavors daily, Beardcat’s is a great spot for cooling off after some tennis in Stith Park or a morning bronzing on the beach.

SALT AT STATION 22

Middle Street, Sullivan’s, re-opened February Renamed in 2013, SALT went through another transformation this year and now boasts an open-air bar and patio area for casual diners, as well as an upscale restaurant indoors with a new raw bar.

PIZZA HUT

Island Center, IOP, opened June Get your deep dish fix right on IOP now that this national pizza chain has made its home on the island. While some may scoff, those with hungry, dripping wet children heading back from the beach will rejoice in the convenience and carbs on offer.

HARRIS TEETER

Island Center, IOP, opened May

After almost two years without a fully stocked grocery store, IOP welcomed Harris Teeter with open arms. Stop in for beach supplies, lunch deals and lots of local produce.

BUSHIDO

Island Center, IOP, opened May

The islands’ sole Asian offering, Bushido started dishing up sushi, Japanese tempura, pot stickers, tataki and hibachi last spring.

ISLAND ICE FROZEN YOGURT

Island Center, IOP, opened November Stop in for organic, gluten-free and kosher yogurt options, made from scratch daily with local fruits.

THE DINGHY

Front Beach, IOP, opened August

This classic beach shack bar introduced shabby chic to the Front Beach scene. Featuring alligator bites and delicacies Elvis would enjoy, the bar also boasts a large selection of local craft beers.

SAVOR

Carolina Blvd., IOP, opened April

This little deli, tucked away in a tiny blue house, is perfect for grabbing a gourmet sandwich or King of Pops popsicle before hitting the beach.

VIBES & VOCALS

When your ears get tired of the soothing sounds of surf and seagulls, there’s no need to cross bridges and jurisdictions—our islands are home to a handful of some of the best live music venues in the county. You just need to know where to look. Local musician Marci Shore takes a tour through Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island live music hotspots to bring you the lowdown on the vibes and vocals to be found on our sliver of Atlantic Coast. Photo by Steve Rosamillia

THE WINDJAMMER

the-windjammer.com, 1008 Ocean Blvd, Isle of Palms, 843.886.8596

VIBE A favorite with locals and tourists alike, the Windjammer has withstood the test of time and elements since 1972. This no-frills, casual oceanfront bar has hosted many a big name band, boasts a beach volleyball court, pool tables, a back deck overlooking the ocean, friendly bartenders, a recurring Bikini Bash contest in the summer, and is known for its reasonably priced and simply delicious cheeseburgers.

VOCALS Acts scheduled for this summer include: Sister Hazel, Cracker with The Whiskey Gentry, The Piedmont Boys, Cowboy Mouth, American Aquarium and the Blue Dogs.

HOME TEAM BBQ

hometeambbq.com, 2209 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island, 843.883.3131

VIBE The mellow and laid-back vibe found at Home Team during daylight hours, melts away after dark as this BBQ spot becomes the hottest music venue on Sullivan’s. Featured in national magazines for its BBQ, and a favorite for the signature high octane ‘Game Changer’ frozen concoction, there is a lot more to love here than just the live music.

VOCALS Home Team is your go-to spot on Sullivan’s Island for consistent live music. Music starts late, 10 p.m. most nights Thursday through Saturday. Home Team has built its brand on blues, bluegrass and Americana/rock/country as played by national, regional and local touring talent.

MORGAN CREEK GRILL

morgancreekgrill.com, 80 41st Ave., Isle of Palms, 843.886.8980

VIBE For nearly 20 years, Morgan Creek Grill has been serving up superior seafood, cocktails and live music on the upper deck overlooking the Intracoastal Waterway and the Isle of Palms Marina. For boat watchers, it’s the best location on the islands to eat, drink and listen to live music, taking in a salty breeze while you “watch the ships roll in and watch them roll away again.” The Grill’s outdoor oyster roasts in the fall have become weekend traditions for many families.

VOCALS Featuring a new, state-of-the-art outdoor stage, music at Morgan Creek Grill looks set to be hot and steamy this summer, as some of the area’s finest acoustic musicians return to perform.

COCONUT JOE’S

coconutjoes.biz, 1120 Ocean Blvd., Isle of Palms, 843.886.0046

VIBE Location. Location. Location. A summer’s afternoon spent at Coconut Joe’s rooftop tiki bar overlooking the ocean while the live reggae sounds of the Mystic Vibrations band blend into the ocean breeze is hard to beat. Beginning in April and continuing through Labor Day, these island sounds echo every night, and during the day on weekends.

VOCALS Mystic Vibrations play every Thursday and Sunday during the season for the “Reggae on The Roof” sessions. They are one of the best reggae bands in the southeast, and are a must-see. The Flying Buganskis Band is a great act that usually plays as a three-man band, turning tunes ranging from Jimmy Buffett and Van Morrison to modern rock songs.

BANANA CABANA

thebananacabanasc.com, 1130 Ocean Blvd., Isle of Palms, 843.886.4360

VIBE A casual, beachfront establishment that’s served up an old-school feel for decades, the Banana Cabana is hopping during the high season, with live music on the back patio just steps from the beach as bartenders sling domestics and serve up frozen concoctions.

VOCALS You’ll find a solo or duo acoustic act strumming their six strings on the back patio every evening in the summer.

THE DINGHY

dinghyiop.com, 8 J C Long Blvd., Isle of Palms, 843.242.8310

VIBE Isle of Palms’ only dive bar, The Dinghy holds its own with the veteran establishments on Front Beach. Just across the street from the beach, The Dinghy has a laid-back Key West-vibe and a variety of unique beers on tap.

VOCALS Live music hits the patio every Thursday, Friday and Saturday evening from around 6-9 p.m.

BUSHIDO

bushidoasian.com, 1517 Palm Blvd., Isle of Palms, 843.885.6121

VIBE Bushido’s recent arrival to IOP was music to ears of many locals craving Asian cuisine. Bushido lacks the oceanfront location, but makes up for it with fresh, creative dishes, sushi and Japanese dishes.

VOCALS Live, upbeat acoustic solo/duos acts accompany happy hour most days of the week.

DUNLEAVY’S IRISH PUB

facebook.com/dunleavyspub 2213 Middle St., Sullivan’s Island, 843.883.9646

VIBE You’re likely to find live music most weekend nights during the summer at the islands’ only Irish pub. This Sullivan’s Island mainstay is also a true locals’ pub. Here you’ll find many of them propping up the bar while chatting with their favorite bartenders.

VOCALS If you’re lucky you may stumble upon bluegrass night, featuring local troubadour Carroll Brown singing your requests. Whenever he’s on the schedule, a variety of his musician friends usually show up to join him on stage for late-night sing-alongs.

CALENDAR

MAY 2015

Shark Shallows Grand Opening

Come fingers to fins with sharks. Throughout May the South Carolina Aquarium celebrates the opening of its brand new state-of-the-art exhibit. Experience sharks in a whole new way with an interactive touch tank experience where you will be able to touch sharks and stingrays. The exhibit will feature nurse and bonnethead sharks as well as Southern and cownose stingrays. scquarium.com

World Turtle Day

Celebrate the iconic reptile at the South Carolina Aquarium on May 23, with a day full of turtle-themed activities and learn about the turtle species that call South Carolina home. You can also celebrate World Turtle Day by touring the Sea Turtle Hospital, which is the only sea turtle rescue facility in the state. scquarium.org

Piccolo Spoleto Sand Sculpting Contest

The 27th annual sand sculpting contest takes place Saturday, May 30 beginning at 9 a.m. on Front Beach. Come out and watch as fabulous creations grow from the sand before your very eyes. iop.net, 843.886.8294

JUNE 2015

Floppin’ Flounder 5K Run/Walk

This community-wide group run hosted by the Charleston Running Club and the Sullivan’s Island Fire and Rescue Department has had a faithful following for 24 years. This year it takes place Saturday, June 6 at 8 a.m. The race starts in front of the Sullivan’s Island Fish Fry Shack, 1459 Hennessy St. floppinflounder2015.kimbia.com

Sullivan’s Island Fire & Rescue Fish Fry

One of the three major fundraisers to support the volunteer rescue operations on Sullivan’s. Held at the Fish Fry Shack 1459 Hennessy St., Saturday June 27, 5 - 8 p.m. sullivansisland-sc.com

Carolina Day

Celebrate the defeat of the British at the Battle of Sullivan’s Island with Fort Sumter National Monument’s weekend of free activities, Saturday and Sunday, June 28 and 29. nps.gov/fosu/learn/historyculture/ fort_moultrie, 843.883.3123

Every Hero Has a Story

Laugh and learn at the library this summer with a variety of reading programs and performances. Children, young adults and adults can keep track of reading and earn prizes. Family programs are on Fridays and Saturdays in June and July at 10:30

a.m. at the Edgar Allan Poe Branch Library, 1921 Ion Avenue, Sullivan's Island. Visit ccpl.org for a full schedule of branch and county-wide summer reading activities. 843.883.3914

JULY 2015

4th of July on Isle of Palms

The Isle of Palms hosts a 4th of July fireworks display over the ocean near 14th Avenue beginning at sunset. iop.net, 843.886.8294

4th of July on Sullivan’s

The Town of Sullivan’s Island sets off its fireworks display at Stith Park on Middle Street, beginning at dusk. Festivities begin at 5:30 p.m. sullivansisland-sc.com

4th of July Golf Cart Parade

Deck out your golf cart or bicycle for this annual parade celebrating America’s independence. Start at the Sullivan’s Island Fire Station, end at Stith Park. Meet at 8:30 a.m.

Isle of Palms Beach Run

On July 25 choose from a Youth Fun Run, 5K or 10K run on the beach. Start at The Windjammer, 1008 Ocean Blvd. IOP, at 8 a.m. iop.net, 843.886.8294

AUGUST 2015

Shark Week

Kick off Shark week on August 7 with Dark Blue, a “fin-tastic party.” Enjoy sustainable small plates from Good Catch partner restaurants, live music and bar. Ages 21 and up. Then celebrate the ocean’s apex predator with fun shark activities all over the aquarium, including special dive shows, educational stations and photo opportunities. scaquarium.org

Half Rubber Tournament

This annual tournament takes place at IOP Recreation Center on August 15. Preregister by Friday, July 31, 2015. $25 per person (3 or 4 players per team). Check In/Captain’s Meeting August at 7:30 a.m., games begin at 8 a.m.

SEPTEMBER 2015

Jammin’ for Jammer

The annual Islands Turtle Team fundraiser takes place September 23 at The Windjammer, on IOP’s Front Beach. Come out for a night of food, fun, live music and a silent auction to benefit the efforts of the turtle team. the-windjammer.com/wp/events/

IOP Community Wellness Fair

Thursday, September 24, 7 to 11 a.m. at the Recreation Center. The Recreation Depart-

ment has teamed up with the East Cooper Medical Center to offer blood work for local residents including cholesterol screenings and lipid profiles. iop.net, 843.884.7031

OCTOBER 2015

Isle of Palms Connector Run and Walk for the Child

This fundraising event for the Isle of Palm’s Exchange Club’s programs to help abused children takes place October 3 on the IOP Connector, beginning at 8 a.m. ioprun.com

Morgan Creek Grill Oyster Roasts

The Morgan Creek Grill, 80 41st Avenue, IOP hosts oyster roasts throughout the fall. morgancreekgrill.com

Migration to Memminger

Support the Center for Birds of Prey at the Annual Gala Migration to Memminger, October 15. The Center is the premier avian medical facility in South Carolina and operates the only permanent oiled bird response facility of its kind on the Eastern seaboard. thecenterforbirdsofprey. org, 843.971.747

IOP Halloween Carnival

Enjoy games for all ages at the annual carnival on Saturday, October 31. Jump castles, temporary tattoos, face painting, Halloween candy, prizes and more. At the Isle of Palms Recreation Department, 28th Avenue, Isle of Palms, from 5 - 7 p.m. The costume contest begins at 5:30 p.m.

NOVEMBER 2015

Polar Express

Catch the Christmas classic at the South Carolina Aquarium’s spectacular 4-D theater beginning November 1. The 15-minute movie plays multiple times a day, and tickets can be purchased with entry to the Aquarium or individually. The 4-D experience includes 3-D visuals, movement, and flurries of snow which will all make you feel like you are on the magic train bound for the North Pole. scquarium.org

Scuba Claus

Beginning November 27, Santa dons his wetsuit and visits the South Carolina Aquarium through December 23. He’ll be swimming around with hundreds of animals in the Great Ocean Tank during his special dive shows, red suit in tow. scquarium.org

DECEMBER 2015

Sullivan’s Island Tree Lighting

Light up the night at the Fire and Rescue Holiday Lighting at the Sullivan’s Island Fire

Station, 2050 Middle St., December 4, 5:30 p.m. Also enjoy singing, hot cocoa and visits with Santa. sullivansisland-sc. com

Holiday Street Festival

Join the Isle of Palms’ mayor as he lights the 22-foot holiday tree on December 5 from 2 - 7 p.m. Visit with Santa, enjoy carnival rides, photo booth, local restaurant food specials, jump castles, and a climbing wall at this family-friendly street festival on Front Beach. iop.net, 843.886.8294

Gingerbread Making

The Town of Sullivan’s Island hosts a gingerbread house party generally around Dec. 15 at the Fire Station. sullivansisland-sc.com

JANUARY 2016

Dunleavy’s Polar Bear Plunge

“We’re freezin’ for a reason.” The Plunge has been around since 2003, with the pub and its patrons raising thousand of dollars for the Special Olympics of South Carolina. Jump in into the chilly waters of the Atlantic on January 1. Meet at 2213 Middle St. Sullivan’s Island at 2 p.m. dunleavyspubpolarplunge.com, 843.795.5316

Charlie Post Classic 15K/5K

The Charleston Running Club hosts the 33rd annual Charlie Post Classic 15K & 5K January 9, 2016. The signature running event of the club, the race honors the memory of Dr. Charlie Post, a well-known Charleston runner, triathlete and family physician who volunteered his time and medical talents to the running community. The race starts at 8:30 a.m. in front of the Sullivan's Island Fire Department, 2050 Middle St., Sullivan's Island. charlestonrunningclub.com

FEBRUARY 2016

Sullivan’s Fire & Rescue Oyster Roast Saturday, February 6 enjoy all you can eat oysters, hot dogs, and fish stew and support the local firefighters. Held at the Fish Fry Shack, 1459 Hennessy St. from 5 - 8 p.m. Tickets $30 in advance, $35 day of. sullivans-sc.com

Doggie Day at the Rec

A dog show, including cutest puppy, most attractive, most ear’resistable, caps off this annual celebration of all things canine, held on Saturday, February 6, 9 a.m. to 12 p.m. iop.net, 843.886.8294

Lowcountry Blues Bash

Enjoy a weekend filled with live blues music on Isle of Palms. The Lowcountry Blues Bash is an annual event held at various venues throughout the Charleston metro area including the IOP Recreation Center. February 6 - 15. bluesbash. com, 843.886.8294

Southeastern Wildlife Expo

SEWE is a three-day showcase of everything we love about wildlife and nature. View fine art exhibits, learn about conservation and watch sporting demonstrations in downtown Charleston, February 12 through 16. sewe.com

Hunley Memorial Event

Confederate Heritage Trust hosts a memorial to the Civil War Hunley submarine beginning with a parade to Sunrise Presbyterian Church, 3222 Middle St. Wednesday, February 17.

MARCH 2016

St. Patrick’s Day

The Town of Sullivan’s Island hosts a family-friendly event starting at 10 a.m., Saturday, March 19 at Stith Park on Middle Street. sullivansisland-sc.com

Island Gras

This party on Front Beach celebrates the start of the season with local musicians, food vendors, jump castles, and other entertainment. iop.net, 843.886.8294

Hope on Goat

This annual fundraiser held on Goat Island benefits a different charity each year. goatislandgatherings.com

APRIL 2016

Cooper River Bridge Run

Charleston’s largest 10K run takes place April 2, 2016 and shuts down most of Mount Pleasant for the morning—just don’t try to drive! bridgerun.com

Round on the Mound

An annual event hosted at the Marshall Stith Park on Sullivan’s Island benefiting the Park Foundation. Every year restaurants prepare hors d'oeuvres while acoustic music accompanies the evening’s activities. sullivansislandparkfoundation.org/round-on-the-mound.html

Isle of Palms Annual Yard Sale

Every year, residents of Isle of Palms sell their old and gently used items in an island-wide yard sale just outside the IOP Recreation Center. 8 a.m. - 12 p.m. iop.net, 843.886.8294

LAST LOOK

A BENCH BY THE WATER

"There is no place you or I can go, to think about or not think about, to summon the presences of, or recollect the absences of slaves . . . There is no suitable memorial, or plaque, or wreath, or wall, or park, or skyscraper lobby. There's no 300-foot tower, there's no small bench by the road. There is not even a tree scored, an initial that I can visit or you can visit in Charleston or Savannah or New York or Providence or better still on the banks of the Mississippi. And because such a place doesn't exist . . . the book had to.”

On July 26, 2008, these words, spoken by Toni Morrison in 1989 in regard to her Pulitzer Prize-winning novel Beloved, went from wistful to reality right here on Sullivan’s Island. On that day the first entry for the “Bench by the Road Project,” an outdoor museum to mark important locations in African American history, was placed by the Intracoastal Waterway across from Fort Moultrie. Why? Because nearly 40 percent of enslaved Africans first set foot on North American soil on this island, where they were placed in quarantine before the “healthy” were sent on to be sold. The rest remained here forever.

Photo by Steve Rosamilia.