Women Who Sail Australia Magazine 2023

COVER: WWSA member Pamela Johnston at the helm of Fika (Paper Sailors Rock)

2Birds2Hobart

Can two women with age, experience, modest means, and a small affordable yacht compete successfully in the Sydney to Hobart race?

This is the question we posed in March last year. By now it’s been answered, but how did it all come together?

Early experiences of sailing

To introduce ourselves: I’ve been sailing all my adult life. My initial dreams – inspired by the likes of Naomi James, Robin Lee Graham, and Clare Francis – were of singlehanded sailing in a small seaworthy yacht which I could manage and maintain myself. Early experiences of cruising my own 24-foot yacht, often in company with the Coastal Cruising Club, led to an interest in navigation, a Yachtmaster Offshore qualification, yacht deliveries, instructing, then joining a race yacht as navigator. I abandoned the singlehanding dream after meeting my husband, who loved sailing but is a very landbased artist, and settled into family life and an art teaching career. Before Currawong I

By Kathy Veel

owned three small timber yachts, and have accumulated 15,000 ocean miles of cruising, racing, and deliveries.

Bridget spent her first pay cheque on sailing lessons and has never lost her passion for it. She’s owned and built boats, sailed across the Atlantic and has thousands of miles of offshore racing experience, including eight Sydney to Hobarts. Her career was nursing and for years she has been a very active SES volunteer as a field team leader. She is handy with a chainsaw, and drives floodboats and heavy vehicles.

Women on Water and Making Waves

Bridget and I met in 1989 when Women on Water (WoW) was getting the 1989 all-women Sydney-Hobart campaign going. I was a foundation member of WoW and sailed the 1989 and 1992 Hobart races with all female crews. Bridget was part of the team and sailed as watch leader in the gale swept 1993 race and two more with WoW. We

reconnected in the last few years racing with Sailors With disAbilities (now rebranded as the Making Waves Foundation). This volunteer organisation provides sailing opportunities for people of all abilities with a range of programs from offshore racing to day sails for children. Bridget had been racing with SWD for years and I became a volunteer skipper after retiring in 2015. With Making Waves we have each sailed hundreds of miles and worked with many wonderful crews and clients.

The Sydney-Hobart idea

Sometime in March last year we were twilight racing on the Making Waves yacht and amongst the on-the-rail banter came the idea of doing the Sydney-Hobart two-handed.

I had recently bought Currawong and sailed her from Melbourne two-handed. The new two-handed division in the Sydney-Hobart

presented an opportunity for adventure and challenge in a race that has largely priced itself out of reach of all but the very wealthy. I could certainly never have the resources to maintain a fully crewed racing yacht. Now I had a yacht, only 30-feet long, but the first I’d ever owned capable of the entering the race. I also had a very keen, experienced, and highly skilled co-skipper.

The yacht

Built in 1973, Currawong was the first of Peter Joubert’s Currawong 30 yachts out of the mould. Joubert’s Baker-built yachts are renowned for strong construction and excellent sea-keeping qualities. The Currawong was a very successful half-tonner, and the most famous, Zeus II, won the Sydney -Hobart in 1981, and placed second in 2001. When I bought Currawong she was wellequipped and but a lot was needed to get her race-ready.

After arrival in Sydney, I had an anchor winch and anchor well installed and the 3mm crazed windows replaced with 6mm acrylic. An opening in the foredeck was closed and rigging screws replaced.

Race preparation

I needed a new Australian Sailing sail number as the old ones had long since lapsed, and then came weighing, measuring the hull, rig and sails, and stability tests for IRC and ORCi rating. Weighing involves stripping everything off the boat except spars – anchors, sails, all loose equipment, even emptying tanks – and lifting the boat with a single point crane. Stability tests involve hanging 100kg from the end of the boom set abeam and measuring

the angle of heel. The numbers are crunched to produce a time correction factor or handicap. We stripped old numbers from the sails and put on the new ones. It was now late August – four months to go!

Friends wanted to help and were interested in our project so we set up a Facebook page, 2Birds2Hobart (social media being just one of the steep learning curves we were negotiating). Some wanted to contribute so we set up a crowdfunding fundraiser on GoFundMe. We have been deeply touched by people’s generosity and wish to be part of the project.

We consulted Genevieve White from Marine Safety Works to equip the boat with everything needed for Cat 1. PFDs, PLBs, AIS MOBs, tethers, MOB retrieval sling… a long and expensive list. Then there were communications. For Cat 1 two-handed, an HF radio and Sat phone are required. The antique Wagner on board didn’t have the required frequencies and nobody knew anyone who could replace them. I had an Icom M804 installed with the required emergency antenna. For Sat phone, Iridium Go, bought via PredictWind, has been very satisfactory for calls, texts, and weather.

There were upgrades to the electronics too.

Currawong came with a Fleming windvane, but we didn’t have time to learn how to use it before the race. We used the Simrad TP22 tillerpilot when conditions allowed but ended up hand steering nearly all the time.

On the October long weekend we hauled out at Woolwich Dock, the only boatyard in Sydney that allows DIY. Flanked by Wild Oats XI and Andoo Comanche, Currawong looked tiny but was quite big enough when it came to sanding and antifouling the hull, and polishing the topsides. We did this ourselves, with the help of kind and generous friends. Then there were winches to be serviced, mechanical issues to solve, deck layout and control lines to be optimised, sails and rigging, safety equipment and an engine to be serviced and a spinnaker pole to be replaced. Again, we are indebted to the kindness of friends helping us out, as well as the ‘pros’

who worked with us. We also had great support from the CYCA. Finally, just eight weeks from the start, Currawong was ready.

Now, to prepare ourselves. We had to update our qualifications which meant doing a twoday Sea Safety Survival course, a Long Range Radio Operator Course for Bridget, and a two day remote area First Aid course for me. We each maintained a fitness regime, we road -tested freeze-dried foods as Currawong has no fridge, and sailed as often as possible. We had to complete a 150-mile qualifying passage together in Currawong before we could race. We practiced sail manoeuvres, especially spinnaker handling, tried every sail on the boat and worked out how we could retrieve each other in a MOB situation. We also learned the importance of eating well, staying hydrated, and protected from the sun.

Ready to start racing

At last, by November we could compete Cat 4 and Cat 2 offshore races to Botany Bay, Bird Island, and Cabbage Tree Island. Each race presented its own challenges, and these were the most powerful training. Racing found out weak points in old fittings and hardware, and we got to see the boat perform on all points of sail, in light and fresh winds. Currawong did well! She could push to windward at 6+ knots in a 20+ knot breeze, and we could carry a spinnaker in 20 knots. Spinnaker snuffers made handling our symmetric and assy (kindly lent by friends) much safer. Our 20-year-old mainsail hung in there and we enjoyed the rivalry with other smaller yachts.

By early December we’d ticked all the boxes for racing and could focus on the reality of race itself. Would it be a bad one? Were we really up to it? I deliberately avoided looking

at the weather until less than a week from the start when the forecast models start to converge. Meanwhile Bridget cooked meals and froze them as single serves. These lasted for four days and kept us satisfied and well nourished. We kept busy adding refinements to the boat like “cushions” for the lifelines and waterproof covers for the bunks so we could sleep in wet weather gear.

The Sydney to Hobart

The race gave us some of the best sailing ever. We had a 15-knot nor’easter which meant a beat down the harbour and spinnaker set as we turned south at the sea mark. We carried the kite for 21 hours, sitting on 8+ knots, and found ourselves off Batemans Bay next morning. As the wind escalated, we poled out a no 4 jib and reefed the main. By evening we were almost down the NSW coast and the forecast was for 45-50 knot northerly wind. By this stage I was exhausted, and while Bridget was keen to continue with trysail and storm jib, I was too depleted and not confident of my own capacity. To continue, I felt, was to risk injury or damage, and so made the call to rest a few hours in Eden. This was tough. It meant abandoning the competition, and we’d been leading in our division for a while, but for me safety came first.

Once we resumed racing next morning we had good winds as a SW front crossed Bass Strait, but a morning of light wind really dispirited us, as our closest rivals were now 150 miles ahead.

On the 29th, still north of Flinders Island, a strong easterly stream arrived, and we realised we could still finish before the new year. This gave us a focus and we pushed hard, flying down the Tassie coast, setting the kite from Freycinet to our last gybe into Tasman Island. Then 35 knots from the NE sent us on a screaming reach across Storm Bay. The breeze held and we sailed from the Iron Pot to the finish on one tack, scraping across the

line twenty minutes before midnight on New Year’s Eve as the breeze dropped out. The welcome was unforgettable!

After thoughts

It was expensive, but so satisfying, to prepare my own boat. Racing was not in the frame when I bought the boat. I only wanted a boat I could confidently sail from Sydney to Tasmania. The decision to do the race meant fast tracking a lot of good work, and I reflect that had we not done the race I would most likely be in Sydney working out how to put a fridge in the boat. Instead, we’ve had an incredible adventure, including a wonderful week in Port Davey.

Would we do it again?

Watch this space!

On the water with

By Shelley Wright

No matter how many years you have been sailing, there is always something to learn and skills to hone. On a blustery Thursday in March, eight WWSA members joined RYA instructor Annette Hesselmans aboard her beautiful Najad 490, Fika, on the stunning waterway of Port Stephens for a day of learning, fun, and friendship.

The morning began at Soldiers Point Marina, getting to know each other and catching up with old friends over home-made cake and coffee in Fika’s elegant saloon as the wind whistled through the rigging outside. The sun was shining though, and after coffee we spent time on deck practising knots, discussing reefing and preventers, and lassoing the dock cleats, before dropping the lines and heading

out past Boondabah Island for a few hours of gybing and tacking practice in the fresh westerly wind.

Lunch was spent at anchor in the shelter of Wanda Head before we set off east again gybing our way towards the heads and each having a turn helming.

The wind eased and white caps disappeared as the shadows lengthened and we tacked west, back up the bay towards the marina again. All agreed it was an excellent day with a calm, experienced, and knowledgeable instructor.

If you’d like to find out more about Annette’s courses (including women’s sail training) go to www.papersailorsrock.com.au for more detail.

Photo credit: Karen Cantrell and Shelley Wright.

Gathering on the Bay!

The last week of March saw women from every state (and almost every territory) converge on Port Stephens for the Women Who Sail Australia Gathering on the Bay. Held annually, the previous event, planned for March 2020, was cancelled at the last minute due to lockdowns. COVID has led to a hiatus since then.

While the Gathering itself takes place over three days (Friday to Sunday) it is bookended by optional activities – this year eight women (three flying in from Victoria) signed on for a day of sail training with RYA instructor Annette Hesselmans from Paper Sailors Rock. Fresh westerly winds created some spirited sailing and a lot of practice in gybing and tacking aboard SV Fika.

The Gathering officially kicked off on Friday and included sessions on ropes and deck fittings with Mel Yeomans and diesel engine basics with Lily Barlow. The highlight for many on Saturday was a presentation by

record breaking solo sailor Lisa Blair who is one of only three people (and the only woman) to have circumnavigated Antarctica, solo, non-stop, and unassisted. In 2022, Lisa smashed the existing speed record for the circumnavigation by ten days and carried out important citizen science during the voyage, collecting valuable data for scientific organisations and agencies, including microplastic samples and deploying weather buoys in remote areas not usually transited by vessels. Lisa presented a second session on Sunday on managing your boat during storm conditions including the use of drogues –with hands-on displays of several types.

Over the three days of the Gathering, Sydney to Hobart double-handed division sailors, Kathy Veel and Bridget Canham, enthralled us with their story, Annette Hesselmans explained sail trim, Laura Corà Macolino shared the Sassy Sailing Sisters program, Julie Porter took us back in time with a talk about SV Rhona (the smallest tall ship in Hobart),

and Debi Thornton outlined how cruisers and the marine environment are impacted by climate.

Informative sessions on anchoring, by Fabien Vignes from Rocna Australia, and first aid for cruisers, with Wendy Sullivan from Marine Medical Solutions, were extremely popular. Two of our WWSA skippers who have experienced rescue situations on their vessels, Cherylle Stone and Deb Keeley, were joined by Port Stephens Marine Rescue skipper Sue Freeman to present a panel discussion on rescue at sea describing what can go wrong and how to prepare your vessel for a rescue situation.

A new format for 2023 Gathering was an interactive session guided by Sonia Robinson from Eziyacht. Breakaway groups discussed various boating scenarios before sharing their outcomes with the room. This was highly successful and will return for 2024.

Leanne Hembrow ensured our attendees started the day relaxed and stress-free with her morning Yoga4Yachties sessions.

Of course, the men were not forgotten, a group of BOBs (blokes on boats) met for coffee and a chat on Friday and joined the women at the official Gathering dinner (Saturday) and a sunset dinner cruise (Sunday).

During the Gathering dinner, founder of WWSA, Dr Shelley Wright, announced the creation of the inaugural WWSA Birch and Dorning Sands Environmental Award, created in memory of Jo Birch and Lynne Dorning Sands, two well-known international cruisers and WWSA members who sadly passed in 2022. The award was presented to Tasmanian WWSA member Sheenagh Neill for her work on the issue of marine debris from industrial salmon farming.

While the Gathering presentations wrapped up on Sunday afternoon, many attendees

ABOVE: Kathy Veel, Lisa Blair, and Bridget Canham.

ABOVE: First Aid for cruisers with Wendy Sullivan from Marine Medical Solutions.

ABOVE: Belinda Collins, Laura Corà Macolino, Stephanie McDonald, and Ruth Boydell.

stayed on for optional events including a sunset dinner sail on the waters of beautiful Port Stephens, a breakfast on Monday morning, and sail training on Newcastle harbour with the Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club.

WWSA would like to thank the Down Under Rally and Ahoy Sailing Magazine for their sponsorship of the 2023 Gathering on the Bay. Also, thanks to Soldiers Point Marina, DeckHardware, Rocna Anchors Australia, Marine Medical Solutions, Eziyacht, The Boat Works, Coral Sea Marina, Paper Sailors Rock, Thwaites Marine, Marine Outlet, and Hawaiian Heart Massage Therapy for their support.

ABOVE: Cherylle Stone and Marine Rescue Port Stephens skipper Sue Freeman.

ABOVE: The BOBs (Blokes on Boats) catching up for coffee in Nelson Bay.

BELOW (left and right): Lisa Blair.

ABOVE: PFD session with NSW Maritime’s Gavin Beck and WWSA Natalie Meisenhelter.

Meet a WWSA: Deborah Hunter

Vessel name and type:

SV Back Friday, Beneteau First 42s7 (year 2000).

How long have you been sailing and what lead you to start?

First started sailing on Twofold Bay, Eden, on a Hutton 24 in 2001 with my father and husband, Bryan. I thought it would be a fun thing to try.

Where have you sailed?

I’ve sailed up and down the east coast from Eden, NSW, to Cairns, FNQ, four times since 2015. I’ve also enjoyed the calm waters of

Pittwater in between these times.

Who do you sail with (family/pets)?

I sail with my husband. When we are back at our wonderful club, KMYC at Cottage Point, our Westie, Robbie, joins us.

Favourite location(s):

I have so many favourite locations... ranging from Smith’s Creek around the corner from Cottage Point to inside Hinchinbrook Channel, and so many in between!

What do you find the most challenging about sailing/cruising?

The most challenging aspect of sailing is my deafness. I can never decipher what is being said over the radio, so have to rely heavily on my husband to be my ears.

Another challenge is getting the weather right.

What do you find the most rewarding?

The most rewarding aspect of sailing is the amazing destinations only accessible by boat and all the fabulous people you meet.

Best wildlife encounter you’ve had on the water:

Of course, having whales breach close by and dolphins playing alongside the boat while cruising up and down the east coast has been an amazing experience. But I think the best wildlife moment for me on the boat was capturing on camera fish running on top of the calm water being chased by a shag at Smith’s Creek.

Most essential item (other than safety equipment) on board:

The most essential item on the boat is “Henry”, our auto pilot.

Funniest thing that has happened to you while cruising/sailing:

One of the funniest things that has happened

to us while cruising was after carefully planning our trip from Cottage Point last year, we discovered four hours into our 60hour passage, that we had left our very reliable outboard motor for our dinghy sitting safely at the club house. Believe me, it wasn’t funny at the time!

What do you enjoy or find helpful about being a member of WWSA?

I was approached by a member of WWSA at Yamba in 2015 about becoming a member. I felt I didn’t deserve to be a member, as at the time this was my maiden voyage north, and I had only relatively little sailing experience. She assured me I would be welcome and how fabulous it is for friendship and wisdom. How right she was, thank you Sharon Lienhert!

Women Who Sail Australia has three degrees!

“What?” I hear you ask. “WWSA has been to uni?”

No, not that type of degree. The navigational kind.

We know WWSA has l’attitude, well now we have longitude too!

But how does one obtain a degree of longitude?

Lisa Blair has been a key member of WWSA since the inaugural Women Who Sail Australia Gathering on the Bay (GOTB) in 2016. Lisa amazed us with her plans to sail solo around Antarctica the following year, the audience enthralled by her enthusiasm and energy.

By the time the 2017 GOTB rolled around, Lisa was deep in the Southern Ocean and most of us were glued to our computer

screens awaiting daily updates on her progress. Lisa spoke to the 2017 Gathering attendees via Satellite phone – broadcast via microphone to the room. There was barely a dry eye as she chatted cheerily from those remote and frigid waters to us in balmy Port Stephens. Two days later we awoke to a phone call relaying the devastating news of her dismasting.

Those who know Lisa were not at all surprised that she managed to jury rig Climate Action Now and get herself and her boat safely to Cape Town, South Africa, for repairs before completing her solo recordbreaking circumnavigation.

The enormity of what Lisa experienced and accomplished during this time was evident when she showed us her video footage once back home. To many of us, Lisa’s dismasting and consequent handling of that situation cemented her reputation as one of the most capable sailors on the globe. All the more remarkable considering she is from a nonsailing background, grew up inland, and was once turned down for a deckhand position on a charter yacht in the Whitsundays!

Safely back in Australia, Lisa’s feet barely touched the dock before she embarked on an east coast speaking tour, prepared an allwomen team to compete aboard Climate Change Now in the 2017 Rolex Sydney to Hobart Race, skippered the all-women team aboard Dove-Defi des filles in the exhausting six

-day PONANT Groupama yacht race in New Caledonia, and set off on another recordbreaking solo circumnavigation – this time nonstop around Australia.

Amongst all this, Lisa somehow found the time to write about her Southern Ocean experiences in her debut book Facing Fear.

She also found time to attend the 2018, 2019, and the recent 2023 GOTB events at Port Stephens (and was on track for 2020/21 but

Lisa at the 2019 WWSA GOTB.

of course the pandemic had other plans for us all).

Having heard Lisa speak on numerous occasions I know her story well, she is a remarkable woman, and it came as no surprise when she told me she was planning a second circumnavigation of Antarctica, determined to complete the journey non-stop and to break the speed record (which she was ahead of at the time of her dismasting in 2017) set in 2008 by Russian Fedor Konyukhov.

So where does a degree of longitude fit into this story?

Always thinking outside the box, Lisa came up with a novel way to raise funds for the upcoming circumnavigation. Sponsors could ‘purchase’ a degree of longitude!

WWSA members are always keen to support Lisa in any way we can, so we combined our pennies and bought three degrees of longitude. As Lisa reached our degrees on her circumnavigation there was much

celebration!

Of course, Lisa and her vessel Climate Action Now are safely back on the east coast of Australia after not only breaking, but smashing, the speed record by 10 days.

If you’d like to read more about Lisa’s voyage, go to Lisa’s webpage ‘Lisa Blair Sails the World’. While you are there, be sure to snaffle a copy of her new book Facing Fear, available at good bookstores or from www.lisablairsailstheworld.com.

A message from Lisa to WWSA

“The collective support that I have received from the Women Who Sail Australia group has been remarkable, and I am so very thankful. I have been a member of the WWSA for several years and for each project the level of support I receive always amazes me. For this project sailing solo around Antarctica, not only did many women donate to collectively sponsor three degrees of my record but you all also shared it across many outlets and messaged me privately to let me know you had shared it with your boss and so on. That level of support and dedication is incredible. Then I was lucky enough to have WWSA member Justine Porter drive over five hours to Brisbane to help for several days aboard Climate Action Now while I was in the refit part of the project and now I have so many members like Shelley Wright, Caitlin Harris, Jo Hansen, Karyn Gojnich, and Jenny Rickerby who are currently helping to run the social media and support this project with their skills on land so that I can focus on the sailing. Everyone else in the group has shared, commented, and in one way or another made me feel like a part of the family so thank you to all the WWSA women out there for your ongoing incredible support.”

BELOW: Screen shot of the tracker following Lisa’s position on 22nd April 2022 as she approaches the second of the WWSA sponsored degrees, 023 degrees East. The WWSA ‘degree’ is the position of Lisa’s 2017 dismasting so we were holding our collective breath as Lisa approached this point.

The pink boat is Lisa in 2022, the black boat Fedor’s position in 2008 after the same number of days, and the green boat Lisa’s 2017 position.

Facing Fear is the inspiring true story of Lisa Blair, who on 25 July 2017 became the first woman to sail solo around Antarctica. She very nearly didn’t live to tell the tale. Seventytwo days into her circumnavigation, when Lisa was more than 1000 nautical miles from land, the mast of Climate Action Now came crashing down in a ferocious storm. In freezing conditions, Lisa battled massive waves and gale-force winds, fighting through the night to save her life and her boat. Following her ordeal, Lisa relied on her unbreakable spirit to beat the odds and complete her world record. With unwavering focus and determination, she sailed home, completing her journey after 183 days. This is the story of her remarkable voyage. Order

Sailing with Whales

By Dr Shelley Wright

As the late autumn chill creeps into southeast Australia, cruisers are preparing to head north to the warm waters and balmy temperatures of the Great Barrier Reef coast. At the same time, humpback whales are also beginning their annual migration north from their summer feeding grounds in the Southern Ocean. With increasing numbers of both cruising yachts and whales migrating along the east coast of Australia, encounters are becoming more common.

Humpback whales are perhaps the bestknown whale species cruising yachts are likely to see in Australian waters. Travelling close to the coast on their migration north from Antarctic waters each autumn and winter, the sight of humpbacks breeching is becoming more common as numbers increase. Their gymnastic displays seem at odds with their enormous size and weight – a fully grown humpback whale can weigh more than a fully loaded semi-trailer and even a small calf can weigh two tons.

What to do if you encounter whales

While we all love to get as close as possible to marine mammals, this can cause stress, particularly to mothers with calves. This in turn may place a vessel in danger.

In Australian waters, regulations are in place to minimise the impact of human/cetacean encounters. Coastal waters, out to three miles, fall within the jurisdiction of the relevant state (Qld or NSW), and offshore from three miles is regulated by the Commonwealth. Recently, however, state regulations were amended to provide consistency with Commonwealth marine mammal regulations.

Under these regulations vessels must not approach any closer than 100 metres to an adult whale. If sighting a whale with a calf, vessels must stay 300 metres away.

Personal motorised water craft (for example jet skis) are considered ‘prohibited vessels’ under the various state and commonwealth legislation. Prohibited vessels must stay 300 m from any whale or dolphin.

In addition to these prohibited distances are ‘caution’ zones. This is a restricted area around the mammal, for whales it is a radius of 300 m. No more than three vessels at a time are allowed within a caution zone and vessels must move slowly and create no wake. Within the caution zone for a cetacean (other than a calf) the vessel must operate at a constant slow speed and in a manner that consistently minimises noise. The vessel must not drift closer than 100 m to a whale

If the whale shows signs of being distressed, the vessel must withdraw immediately from the caution zone at a constant slow speed (signs of disturbance include regular changes in direction or speed of swimming, hasty dives, changes in breathing patterns, changes

in acoustic behaviour or aggressive behaviour such as tail slashing and trumpet blows).

If a calf approaches a vessel, placing it within the caution zone, the vessel must immediately stop, turn off the engines or disengage the gears, or withdraw from the caution zone at a constant slow speed.

Marine mammals should not be approached from behind or head on but rather from parallel and slightly from the rear. When moving away, vessels should proceed at a slow and constant speed, leaving no wake.

Swimming with cetaceans

As tempting as it may seem, people must not get into the water within 100 metres of a

No-approach zones

Within a caution zone there are areas designated as ‘no approach’ zones that boats cannot enter. These are the areas closest to an animal and directly in front of and behind an animal.

For a whale, the no approach zone surrounds the animal for 100 metres and extends 300 metres in front of and behind the animal.

For dolphins, the no approach zone surrounds the animal for 50 metres and extends 150 metres in front of and behind the animal.

( http://www.ehp.qld.gov.au/help/pdf.html )

whale. If any cetacean comes within 30 metres of a person who is in the water the person must move slowly to avoid startling it and must not touch the cetacean or move towards it

Special interest marine mammals

Under the regulations there are specific rules for ‘special interest marine mammals’ – these animals include a morphological or colour variant marine mammal (such as the white humpback, ‘Migaloo’), a female marine mammal that has recently given or is about to give, birth, a calf separated from a mother of a group of marine mammals, and sick or injured marine mammals. Vessels must not approach within 500 m of special interest marine mammals (including ‘Migaloo’ and any other whale that is more than 90 % white) and jet skis must stay more than 600 m away.

What to do if a cetacean approaches you

Whales also seem just as keen to ‘people watch’ as we are to whale watch and regularly approach vessels. The regulations acknowledge this and state that if a whale (other than a calf) approaches a vessel or comes within the limits mentioned, the person operating the vessel must disengage the vessel’s propulsion and let the whale approach, or reduce the speed of the vessel

and continue on a course away from the whale. A prohibited vessel that is being approached by a cetacean must be moved away from the cetacean at a constant slow speed so that the vessel remains at least 300 metres away from the cetacean.

Injured marine mammals

Unfortunately collisions between vessels and whales do occur. Anyone accidentally hitting a cetacean must report it. A more frequent problem is the entanglement of marine mammals in shark nets off popular swimming beaches. In Queensland, sightings of sick, injured or dead marine mammals (and sea turtles) should be reported to the RSPCA Qld on 1300 ANIMAL (1300 264625). In NSW, all distressed and injured marine mammals should be reported to ORRCA on their 24 hour rescue hotline 02 94153333.

Enjoy the experience!

At the end of winter and into spring, the whales begin their long journey back to Antarctic waters with their calves. The sight of a young humpback calf practising its breaching next to a patient mother is always cause for delight! Hopefully having already captured some great shots, it’s time for cruisers to put down their cameras and just enjoy the experience.

Humpback Whales:

A photo essay by Leanne Maffesoni

ABOVE: Mum and calf with Bottlenose Dolphins.

BELOW: Head rise (Humpback) with False Killer Whales.

ABOVE: Calf breaching.

BELOW: Calf head-on breach.

ABOVE and RIGHT: Diving.

BELOW: Surfacing.

Leanne is a cetacean citizen scientist/researcher based in the Port Stephens area. She has clocked up over 22 years of photographing cetaceans both along the east coast of Australia, off the South Island of New Zealand, and the Kingdom of Tonga. Leanne over 12 seasons with the Oceania Project’s 25-year study of the Humpback Whales in Hervey Bay, Queensland, one season with GBR Whale and Dolphin Research Program, nine seasons with Humpback Whales in the Kingdom of Tonga and completed a Whale and Dolphin Watching Guide and Operator Training Guide course in NSW. She has over 20 years’ experience with stranded/deceased marine mammals and assisted in necropsies.

Leanne attends marine mammal forums/lectures and contributes her photo IDs to Great Australian Bight Right Whale Study (Southern Right Whales), Far Out Ocean Research Collective (False Killer Whales), Killer Whales Australia, Minke Whale Project, Happywhale (Humpbacks) and Tongan Fluke Collective (Humpbacks).

Leanne is currently working on her own projects: A catalogue of Australian East Coast Humpback Whale Fluke IDs; and Port Stephens Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin Dorsal IDs. She is blessed to have some wonderful cetacean research friends that are most forthcoming with answers to her questions. Leanne says she is always learning.

ABOVE: Nearly a double.

RIGHT: Leanne.

Bunkered Down in the Bold and Beautiful Bunkers

Sonia, her husband Miguel, and their ship’s cat ‘Pooky’, share their experiences sailing the southernmost islands and reefs of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef aboard their Westerly Conway ketch DreamCatcher.

There’s nowhere to run, no one to help you, and nowhere to take cover if you get into trouble so you better be prepared! This might sound like a horror movie but in fact it was one of the most exciting and memorable 10 days we have spent sailing together on Dream Catcher

We felt like we were living in a postcard and what still surprises me is that we were in Australia – in my backyard!

Fortunate to have left New South Wales before COVID-19 hit, we spent roughly six weeks making our way up the east coast in the hopes of adventure and warmer

temperatures.

We passed a few days in lockdown upon arrival in Southport before heading on to Bundaberg.

Departing Bundaberg

Waking in the early hours to go sailing is no joke when it’s only a few degrees above zero – and on this chilly morning we had six degrees. Bundaberg Port has one of the best lit entry channels I’ve experienced with little to no back lighting to confuse a tired sailor. Leaving posed no issues, so with coffee in hand we quietly slipped the lines before dawn and were soon on our way. Once out of the channel we logged in with Coastguard, advising an expected arrival time of 1500. We had perfect sailing conditions so hoisted full main, mizzen, and headsail. Knowing that we would soon lose signal completely we took it in turns to advise our closest contacts that we

Sonia Robinson

would be ‘off grid’ for at least a week, telling them our intended route. Looking out over the horizon the adventure was in full swing –first stop, Lady Musgrave Island.

Much deliberation had gone into deciding if/ when to venture out to the Capricorn Bunker Group of the southern Great Barrier Reef as the weather had been very uncharacteristic of southeast Queensland up to now – with no sign of anything regular on the horizon (regular weather would suggest predominant SE trade winds of 15-20 knots). We were really keen to get out to the reef, and while heading north via the coastal route to Pancake Creek seemed like a more sensible option, we were seeking the road less travelled.

I felt that our window of opportunity could be hampered later that week as we had already had to delay our departure by one day to allow some strong northerlies to pass. We knew there were more coming in a few days but hoped to be well bunkered down in the lee of the island, and we had one other yacht heading out with us

which is always comforting.

Much of our trip in the lead-up to this had been quite tiring from a navigational perspective; first the numerous bar crossings in NSW waters, then the Broadwater and the Sandy Straits which demand a keen eye and a lot of short hops within tides and shallow channels – none of which caused any incident but did demand attention. To now be heading out to sea with plenty of room, increasing depth, and a clear horizon was an exciting change.

Once out of sight of land that old familiar feeling of being out on the ocean came back thrilling my senses – aah to be at sea!

But with that came a new set of challenges –the weather could be less predictable and without internet or phone signal (and without the luxury of Iridium) we were solely

dependent on daily BOM updates on a crackly VHF, or insight from other cruisers. In the days to come, I was to learn that in general you can expect the wind strength to be at least 5-10 knots stronger than predicted for coastal waters and several glances at the barometer helped to determine when any change was coming.

“Landahoy”

We had been travelling since before daybreak and the wind had eased mid-morning, so the iron sail went on to assist. Pooky was asleep in the cockpit while I napped on the bow thrilled by the whales and dolphins that had greeted us earlier. Meanwhile Miguel had been busily preparing his diving gear ready to jump in the lagoon to catch fish upon our arrival! Areas of the Capricorn/Bunkers are ‘green zones’, where no fishing is permitted, however one of the drawcards for him was that fishing was allowed on the southern side of Lady Musgrave Island within the lagoon.

With land in sight, I was up on my feet shrieking like a child. At first it was like a mirage, then it looked like clusters of trees, but it was our eyes playing tricks on us. It was actually the surf breaking on the outer reef. As we neared, the island became more apparent and then the golden sand beach of the western side. Stunning. It reminded me of the many Caribbean islands I’d sailed to back in my twenties – but this was Australia, my home, and I was arriving here on my own yacht this time!

Soon I could see other yachts anchored to the south of the island – in the lagoon. Reality set. We would need to drop sail and prepare to enter the channel into the lagoon. Noel Patrick’s book Curtis Coast says, “This island, with its accessible lagoon, really has it all” and adds, “it is well protected against all but the wildest weather”. I wondered whether this statement was going to be put to the test in the days to come.

Bubbles of Paradise

Just as I spotted the first marker, my heart skipped a beat as a friendly whale popped up to welcome us – taking Pooky and I by surprise! The tiny entrance into the lagoon didn’t pose any problems but once in we had to keep a sharp eye out so as not to strike any of the coral beneath us.

We spent a glorious first morning exploring the reef and had a walk ashore. Sitting in a bouncy cockpit, mesmerised as I looked around, I shed a tear of joy.

The crystal-clear water, the lush green trees of the island, a beautiful lagoon filled with reef life, little sharks looking for a nibble, green turtles popping their heads up and darting away as quickly and several birds and eagles soaring above. Our backyard was a coral reef where Miguel had lots of fish to admire. Fresh coffee was brewing below and beside me Pooky was cleaning his paws having gobbled his brekkie.

We did it. All the hard work, preparation, and believing we could get here. We were in paradise living our dream.

Surrounded by eight other yachts – all sitting in their own little bubbles of paradise – it couldn’t possibly get better than this.

Knowing we were about to experience bad weather we had time to prepare the boat. We were fortunate on arrival to score the last Marine Parks mooring which was perfectly positioned to the southwest of the island –exactly where I had hoped to anchor to seek protection from the impending northwesterly due in the following days.

Riders of the storm

With the dinghy secured, halyards tensioned, all gear stowed away and the engine ready for an urgent start in the unlikely event that the hefty mooring line should fail, we bunkered down for a night and a day. Our friends were

close by, and the other occupants of the lagoon were doing the same. (No-one had departed or arrived in the days following our arrival)

Dream Catcher rocked and rolled and swung on her mooring line (which we had raised to avoid it banging on the hull) but that was the worst that we experienced. We rescued our friends a couple of times when their dinghy failed to start but once the winds died down we took to shore for a walk before going for a drift dive in the crystal-clear waters. We farewelled the island with a little picnic ashore and thanked the Universe for putting us here rather than amid lockdowns elsewhere. To acknowledge our thanks, she put on the most magnificent sunset with streaked orange clouds to be followed by the rise of a full moon emerging from the south. This was a special place indeed.

Lady Musgrave to Fitzroy Reef

We left Lady Musgrave in the morning to arrive at the entrance to Fitzroy Reef with the sun well above us. This would allow us to see the reef channel, which we were told was not as clearly cut as Lady Musgrave. Passing Fairfax and Hoskyn Islands we were accompanied by a plethora of whales – more than we’d seen in one day the entire trip. Pooky, however, was unimpressed by these large noisy creatures, preferring to sleep next to Mummy.

I admit I had misgivings about anchoring inside a reef lagoon in the middle of the ocean, but we timed our arrival perfectly. I was most curious about visiting this reef but also quite wary of being caught out in inclement weather with nowhere to hide. Fortunately, it was calm and sunny – the only conditions I was up for on this occasion with no real Plan B to speak of with and little option for shelter for several miles elsewhere. However, this was also mid ebb tide which we also knew meant strong currents. I had never anchored in the middle of the ocean before –

inside a coral reef – and it proved to be a humbling and surreal experience.

One would expect to see land, an island, or at the very least a sand bank, but there was nothing – other than the sound of a breaking swell to the north and south of the yachts. I felt my heart flutter as we approached the surf. The channel markers were not visible –but my plotter and Navionics advised otherwise. Two rather pathetic little sticks appeared – then a third. Ok, that’s the channel but where is the entry? Assisted by my binos I managed to make out two smaller buoys just past the swell. This was WEIRD! On we went heading for the markers but giving the reef wall a wide berth. At least in real life the reef is bigger than it looks on the charts, but the narrow entry gave little peace of mind.

We experienced about four knots of current entering the channel. It was narrow and the reef looked terribly close on either side of Dream Catcher but with Miguel keeping watch on the bow we emerged the other side into the deep lagoon unscathed. Unlike Lady Musgrave, there were a lot less bommies once inside the lagoon and we anchored in about nine metres of clear water with the anchor in sight below.

Time for a paddle board, some snorkelling, and a swim before cocktails at sunset. Another ‘moment’ looking out at our apparent reality in disbelief. Where else in the world would we rather be? Nowhere. This was magic.

A sea of serenity

Pooky woke me at dawn as is customary. This time I didn’t complain and gave him some brekkie to keep him happy. He had been a bit bored up to now as there were no birdies to yap at since leaving Lady Musgrave. He enjoyed pacing about the boat staring into the deeps below, worrying Mum and Dad that he might fall in. A heavy dew had fallen but the

milky water was still and beckoned me in. I wished he liked swimming so I could take him with me on my morning paddle. Instead, he saw me off and then went for a sleep.

I had the lagoon to myself. The little fishermen’s boats were long gone in search of a morning catch, while the few cruising yachts anchored were still sleeping – relishing the calm conditions. I paddled to the closest reef within the lagoon and hovered over above the corals. The entire lagoon was still with not a ripple on the water. The only disturbance on the surface was from the droplets falling from my paddle as I drifted with the gentle current watching the world below. It was like being in a huge aquarium or even a glass bottomed boat. Several spotted rays shimmered on the seabed skirting the reef while little fishies of all colours and sizes darted this way and that going about their morning business like people in a busy shopping mall.

Keen to hear the morning weather forecast I left my wonderland and paddled back to the boat. Miguel had asked a few neighbouring boats for weather intel the night before, but no-one knew any more than we did – which was just three days ahead and constantly changing:

• Wed: N 10kts tending NNW 10-15kts in the afternoon

• Thur: NW 10-15kts, then WSW 15-20 kts tending SW in the evening

• Fri: S 10-15kts tending SE 15-20kts later

We felt fortunate to have had such a wonderful experience, so rather than risk a second night with the possibility of strong northerlies decided to press on later that morning after some board yoga (me) and a spot of snorkelling (Miguel). With much gratitude and a little regret, we left the beautiful lagoon through the channel again. It was cloudy and seeing the reef was next to

impossible, so I relied on a reciprocal track to exit, and with less current this worked well.

Curiosity killed the cat

Our next ‘goal’ was North West Island, some 35 nm to the northwest. To reach North West Island, it is necessary to pass through a channel between two reefs; Wistari Reef and Heron Island. We had been told by a very reliable source that the snorkelling at Wistari Reef was phenomenal and that there was a public mooring which offered some shelter in a southeasterly (which wouldn’t work for our conditions). Heron Island was said to have a resort, although information was lacking, and Miguel was curious. He had to find out more about why, according to Alan Lucas, ‘Visitors are not welcome’ (not to mention the thought of a cocktail ashore) so we decided that if there was a suitable location offering protection we would stop over and if not, we should push on to North West Island – a further 18 nm to the north west.

Our friends who had left Fitzroy before us opted to keep going as their dog would not be welcome ashore at Heron. We decided to take a look ashore and call them on Channel 16 to advise once we arrived. It was a calmish day and the forecast northwesterly had fizzled to a light breeze so we would need to motor for another four hours if we continued on to North West Island.

Heron beckoned. Our guidebook told us to make ourselves known*. I called up on Channel 16 but they were not monitoring that frequency – nor was anyone else it seemed. We picked up the one and only mooring just off the reef wall and lowered the dinghy into the water leaving puss puss behind, ‘Bye Pooky… we’ll be back later’.

We boldly motored into the narrow channel passing a wreck and landed on the shallow beach. The management greeted us and after a brief ‘interview’ which confirmed we were

not refugees, criminals, or COVID 19 victims, we were signed in and made to feel very welcome on this private island resort. How exciting! Off to the bar… followed by a swift visit to the gift shop.

Heron Island is a diver’s mecca, and the resort is geared for those keen on snorkelling, diving, and ecology, with nightly talks on marine life and coral species.

Back on board it was time to take a hot cockpit shower while experiencing the most spectacular sunset of the trip so far (and that’s a big call!). We settled in for a relaxing evening of star gazing until sleepiness prevailed. Off to bed for a great night’s sleep – well, not quite…

It wasn’t the usual warm fur of the cat that woke me, but the disturbing sound of the mooring slamming against the hull. I quickly realised that the wind had picked up from the north during the night. We hadn’t bothered to raise the dinghy as we were intending to go ashore to avail of internet and maybe a snorkel in the morning, leaving with the tide around midday. The weather had other plans. I grabbed a torch and went out to secure the dinghy with a second line and reinforced our mooring bridle before heading back to bed to get some sleep.

About an hour later, it was evident that we would need to move fast. We were on a lee shore and the reef was too close behind us. We were being held stern to the wind and bow to the tide and the boat was swinging violently. It was already over 20 kts and building from the north. We had to act fast. First, we needed to fix the mooring buoy from submerging itself under the hull as it was hammering the hull dangerously close to the propeller and shaft.

Bang clunk bang

The mooring thudded its way under the boat and up the other side. This was not good.

Combined with the pitching and rolling, there was havoc below decks, and it was barely light. “First, let’s get the mooring up to the bow” I said. We lassoed a line over the mooring ball when it was slack and ran it as far forward as possible before the wind pushed the boat back over it. We continued this process on the other side when it reemerged and finally, with much heaving, got the mooring to the bow. Then we set a quick release bridle from the buoy ready for a quick departure as we couldn’t afford to be pushed back onto the reef which was less than 20 metres behind us.

Now the dinghy was heaving and crashing against the swim ladder. It was a roller coaster ride, and I couldn’t manage to get in it but Miguel did a ninja jump and made it on board to secure the davit lines. Another timed jump had him safely back on board as we hefted the boat out of the water. It was now blowing 25 knots. Our idyllic private island had become a nightmare!

Below decks out of the mayhem we had our morning coffee and took a well needed breather to assess the situation. It was only 6.30 am!

Staying here was not an option – it was too uncomfortable and completely exposed. This wind was not forecast – at least not at that strength. The promise of a shift later in the day to the south made North West Island more favourable. We would have to motor into it for the first portion of the trip to the island as there was nowhere else to go. I knew we could shelter on the southern shore if needed until the wind swung south.

We tried to raise our friends on the radio but without success. What could have happened to them? We had no way to send a message to anyone and no way to source a weather forecast as it seemed there was a ‘hole’ in VHF coms.

Fuelled with warm coffee we donned our

safety gear and warm woolie hats and prepared to face into 25 knot headwind for four hours against a strong current. I did wonder how we had been so duped by the serenity of the previous evening and failed to raise the dinghy, but what worried me was that we could raise no-one on the VHF. We wondered what would await us at North West Island… surely we’d meet our friends or at least there would be other yachts anchored… but who in their right mind would want to sit out this blow fully exposed?

Before dropping the mooring, instinct told me to check the prop by putting her in gear forward and reverse… we had taken a few slams earlier when the mooring ball had been swinging under the boat and I was worried about damage to the prop or shaft. Fortunately, all seemed normal. By this point Dream Catcher was pouncing like a pendulum, so getting a clean break from the mooring and the exposed reef ahead of us was vital. Full astern and we were off and out. I steered her north and into the wind with more revolutions than normal, but her reaction was so slow I was sure the gears were not engaged. We weren’t moving forward. Then we were making ground 1.2 knots, then 1.5 knots, then 2 knots, but this was insane! How would we get anywhere in this? It was impossible to sail as we needed to pass well clear to the north of Wistari Reef which was on our port. Finally, we had enough room to hoist a reefed mainsail and combined with reefed jib and mizzen we were soon making headway – just. We would have to dog leg north, then west, then north again, and so on against the current and wind.

Hours passed and with each glance over my right shoulder Heron Island never seemed to get any farther away. This was hopeless. Miguel reassured me that indeed we were making progress. However, I felt responsible for having exposed my boat and crew to such conditions, and soon we would have more challenges to face… we were experiencing

much stronger northwesterly winds than were forecast and still waiting for the southeasterly change which was scheduled for ‘later’. How later is ‘later’?

The only anchorage with a mooring ball was on the northwest of the island, no use whatsoever to be on a lee shore of a coral reef. So, we looked at the south side as a temporary option which would provide shelter and a chance to rest and regroup. But I had no idea what the bottom was like. Fortunately, as we approached the reef wall, the wind eased to about 15 knots and we were able to drop sail and take a good look. With the sun overhead, we could see that it appeared to be sand with the odd coral bommie. We looped around before anchoring in about nine metres… laying sufficient chain to allow for a swing towards the reef. Phew! We were exhausted. The adrenalin of the past few hours slowly discharged from my body. It was lunchtime and we were starving. I made pizzas and we sat on deck. It was glorious. The reef was magnificent, and the island sat luring me… was there anyone else here? Were we completely alone?

Still unable to reach our friends on the radio we suspected that they must have bolted during the night as they would have experienced the same conditions as we had... but the closest haven was Hummocky or the Keppels and that was 60 nm to the west, which would have meant punching into it for a lot longer. I didn’t envy them and suddenly our situation seemed far better.

Reluctant decision time…

I considered our options while the boys slept. “Why not wait here at anchor under the lee of the island until the wind goes south?” I asked myself. Or perhaps we should leave for the mainland and sail through the night... We were very protected here on the southern side of the reef. But for how long? When would we experience this southesterly change? I expected it to be any time that afternoon/

evening… but later meant ‘later’. Then I remembered reading something about southerlies in this area in Noel Patrick’s Cruising the Coral Coast:

“Snug in one’s bunk, after the first whisper of a southerly change is ignored, forget the cosy bunk! You must arise and move as quickly as practical as normally the wind will only increase, leaving your vessel on a sometimesterrifying lee shore if you delay.”

Should we up sticks and leave for the mainland and sail through whatever Poseidon was to send us through the night? Ugh, that didn’t really appeal either, but it was possibly an safer option. So as always when struggling with a decision, I put it to the crew.

Pooky turned his nose up immediately when I suggested sailing again and Miguel looked dead to the world. With a thyroid condition, his energy levels could drop very fast, and he was having ‘one of those days’ so I didn’t feel comfortable expecting him to sail through the night. I must admit, I did not want to leave without exploring the island. It was really beautiful, and we had made it this far…

Our only option was to up anchor and head around to the exposed side of the island before nightfall to find a suitable place to anchor. We knew there was supposed to be one mooring but didn’t want to rely on that as an option – nor did I want to wait until after dark to feel our way around a coral reef. So, just before sunset we weighed anchor and headed for the western bay leaving the sheltered waters behind us. The reef was vast and the scenery spectacular. Rounding the southern tip things got a little bumpy as we crashed into the northerly swell. We braced ourselves for the headwind and ploughed into it. Still expecting to see yacht masts as we rounded the bottom, we saw no-one. But then – in the distance – we saw one little yacht. Damnit! They had taken the only mooring. We would be anchoring in the swell and wind on a lee shore with a coral reef.

We managed to secure Dream Catcher close by the other yacht and set our anchor alarm. I decided to sit watch as there was no way to rest in these conditions with the reef in sight. At least if we dragged, I would be in the cockpit ready to fire up the engine and get us out of there. It was dark now… and still howling from the northwest. We were pitching and rolling, and my mind was weighing up our options yet again. Today had been tough.

Miguel took watch while I had a rest and at about 1 am the change finally came. At least now if we dragged it would be out to sea. A little later the other yacht decided to leave so we jumped on their mooring, which would give us a bit more peace of mind, and collapsed into a deep sleep. At last.

Fortune favours the brave

The next morning, we woke up in paradise. With Sydney and Brisbane in lockdown, we felt privileged to have made it here. With no signs of yesterday’s drama, the sea was an inviting azure blue revealing colourful corals beneath the surface. The beach shone with dazzling golden sand and gentle waves broke on its lonely shores. Yet again, I was humbled by the spectacle before my eyes and how we deserved to experience this beautiful, graceful place… all alone.

Still wondering what had happened to our friends, we tried the radio again, but to no avail. By some crazy miracle Miguel had one bar of service on his phone, which was sufficient for an instant to reach them. They had sailed to Rosslyn Bay without an engine the previous day. They had endured their own share of dramas leaving the island the night before… trying to up-anchor with no engine and sail away from the reef. It must have been frightening.

Knowing they were safe, and vice versa, we relaxed. Time to explore this island. Signs in the water advised of ‘No swimming’ due to

sharks. We later learned that a National Parks and Wildlife ranger had been the victim of an attack here the previous winter. Walking ashore we stumbled upon a memorial tribute (his boots had been preserved and mounted on a timber bench overlooking the ocean). He was just 23 when he was taken.

As we wandered along the shoreline, several little local native birds (buff banded rail) welcomed us, while several small sharks watched us curiously just beyond the water’s edge. Dying for a swim, we each bathed in the shallows not daring to take long about it. The water was irresistible but, not wanting to be another victim, we kept our dip brief.

While ashore a huge power boat appeared and anchored near Dream Catcher. How dare they we thought! But they didn’t go ashore as the narrow tidal gate was closing. (There is one stake marking the entry to the lagoon and shore. It is only accessible for small shallow draught vessels close to high tide.)

Back on board I felt thoroughly invigorated by this island paradise but also humbled by its beauty and inaccessibility. With a full belly and having successfully passaged north through the Bunker Group we prepared for the next day’s sail to explore the Keppel Islands – thankful for every moment up to now.

LESSONS LEARNED

Safety in numbers vs splitting up

While it’s always nice to find a private and secluded anchorage, it does sometimes beg the question ‘why is no-one else here?’. If you are fortunate to enjoy it alone, make sure you keep an eye on the weather as it can change without warning. Having someone on the radio is always comforting when decision making.

On the one occasion where we ended up alone, we lost radio contact with our friends’ yacht, and they were indeed having their own

troubles and could have used some help. We were quite worried about them, and they were worried about us.

Have a Plan C as well as a Plan B

I spent a lot of time preparing our passage plans each day/night for the following few days and applied varying conditions, so we always had more than one option to consider. The only real time we were ‘caught out’ was when I failed to take the tides into consideration and lacked a reliable weather forecast to determine the time of the wind shift between Heron and North West Island.

Use multiple information sources

For weather, routing, and cruising guides, and listen to the more local cruisers who might know a thing or two you might find useful down the track.

Using Marine Parks Moorings

To allow reef regeneration, try to use moorings where available and always pull them up close to the boat so they don’t wake you with a clunk.

FURTHER READING:

• Cruising the Coral Coast by Alan Lucas

• Noel Patrick's Cruising the Curtis Coast (out of print but worth grabbing if you can find a copy)

• Cruising the Queensland Coast by Greg Luck

* Check with the resort for permission first as visiting boats may not always be welcome

The Capricorn-Bunker Group of coral cays (islands) form the southernmost portion of the Great Barrier Reef lying some 45 – 60 nm off the Capricorn Coast. Fishing areas are restricted and monitored closely by Great Barrier Marine Parks Authority (GBRMPA). There is no reliable internet or phone coverage amongst the group. VHF communications are available through Port Bundaberg on Channel 80. No domestic animals are permitted ashore amongst the Bunker Group.

Some islands offer camping and overnight reef accommodation (North West and Lady Musgrave) for nature enthusiasts and divers. Heron Island is a privately operated coral cay and a wildlife and marine life sanctuary with a worldrenowned research station. This resort island offers diving and snorkelling activities daily, a great bar and restaurant, internet, pool, and small cinema for educational purposes.

Finding protection from the weather can be a challenge – particularly if there is no island or shallow sandy patch off the reef in which to anchor. Marine Parks provide moorings at some locations (primarily to protect the coral) but you must be prepared to anchor at every location – sometimes in deep water.

Another element to consider is the effect of tides and currents which, depending on your location may vary in height and strength. The tidal flow can be very strong which, for a full keeled yacht like Dream Catcher can be quite uncomfortable, tending to sit beam on or even stern to the wind and wanting to pivot on her chain or mooring line.

For anyone willing, the Capricorn-Bunkers are well worth a visit.

SONIA ROBINSON owns EZIYACHT, a marine brokerage that helps people to buy and sell boats.

We specialise in the preparation and sale of used sailing and motor yachts and cruisers. We encourage more women to take to the water as boat owners and skippers, and we enjoy educating others along the way. We take pride in working closely with our clients to ensure that their vessel is presented and marketed in the best imaginable way while finding the right vessel for each and every buyer.

Follow us on Instagram, YouTube, Facebook or check out our website on www.eziyacht.com

For information on buying and selling yachts send us an email: sonia@eziyacht.com.

Hobart, February 2023

Organised by Sheenagh Neill, the WWSA Tasmanian sub-group held a presentation at the Australian Wooden Boat Festival in Hobart in February this year. Four WWSA members presented various sailing topics. The one-hour session was booked out months in advance.

Gail Grant (SV Southern Belle) gave a run down on the history of WWSA and how it started in 2014. Jane Wilson, skipper of Erik, an Atkins 32, shared her skills and learning processes as a skipper sailing solo on her yacht. She described her highs and lows of sailing her wooden yacht solo in Tasmania.

Sheenagh Neill, skipper of Tahiti, a Jeanneau 42i, gave a talk on sailing to remote and often overlooked places around Tasmania, including special anchorages on the South Coast, Flinders and Deal Islands. This was an informative talk and well received.

Julie Porter shared her rope skills and provided a handout for participants to take home. Julie sails her boat Heather Belle, a 24foot Lyle Hess. Julie is also one of the coowners of SV Rhona H, a gaff-rigged topsail ketch. She helps train young people in wooden boat sailing as well as running short cruises on the Derwent.

After Julie’s presentation, Sheenagh and Gail took to the stage to demonstrate the lasso technique for berthing, originally shared by a WWSA member Linda McKenzie. Gail says she uses this technique regularly and has stated it helps when coming into new marinas.

There were many recognisable faces in the crowd, and many enjoyed arriving early to catch up and reconnect with other members present. The event was not restricted to WWSA members and was open to the public, many attendees were new to sailing.

At the end of the presentations, we were able to award spot prizes to many happy participants in the audience. This was made possible through the generosity of WWSA founder Dr Shelley Wright and our WWSA national group.

2023 WWSA Tasmania inaugural event at the Australian Wooden Boat Festival

A big thanks to all the WWSA helpers on the day, without whom our event would not have run so smoothly. Thanks to Judy Arundell, Traci Ayris, Robin Bell, Michelle OBrien, Kristina Holmes, Leigh Malcolm, Christine Materia Rowland, Karen Moser, and Kim Revell.

LEFT: Jane Wilson.

ABOVE: Sheenagh Neill.

Julie Porter.

GourmetguidetotheWhitsundays: Shopping,provisioning,andeating

ByDeniseLowden

Sailing around the Whitsundays can be lovely and, as sailing destinations go (whether Bareboat charter or owner), all in all, pretty easy. Proserpine airport is about 45 minutes from Coral Sea Marina (6) or Port of Airlie Marina (7), and there are a variety of taxi services, private car transfers, hire cars, and buses that will get you to and from the airport if you are driving in.

If you are arriving by boat, the town of Airlie Beach is in walking distance from both marinas, but you’ll need a taxi to get you back to the boat if you are fully laden with a big shop. Coral Sea and Port of Airlie Marinas have free courtesy cars that you can use for a few hours to get all your shopping done (assuming you are well organised).

If you are flying in, most private car transfers will stop and pick up a Click and Collect order for you and stop at various other stores to help you provision. We have always used Airlie Beach Transfers, a small family run company who are very accommodating re stops for food, alcohol, dive gear and more, just make sure you let them know in advance that you are requiring more than just the simple transfer so they can allow for the extra time (and boot space) that you may need.

There is a yacht provisioning company as well, we used one of these companies many years ago and were unimpressed with the price and the quality. Quite frankly, Click and

far better option! I’ll go into more detail about Click and Collect at the end as there are a few helpful hints – remember it’s not like at home where you can just pop back and pick up that one vital ingredient if they were unable to supply it! Availability of produce in what is essentially regional Queensland is NOT the same as bigger towns and cities.

Alcohol

There are a variety of ‘Cellarbrations’ and ‘BWS’ stores located through town. ‘Cellarbrations’ in Cannonvale is the largest and best priced we found, but depending on where in Australia you are from you may find their wine range is not as broad as you might like. ‘Airlie Liquor and Tobacco’ (there are three of these – the largest is in Airlie itself) has a decent range, with some slightly more upmarket wines, however their wines seem to be about 20% more expensive.

If you are buying beer, soft drinks and mixers consider cans instead of bottles, they are lighter, far less inclined to break, and they crush down afterwards to reduce the amount of rubbish that you will need to store.

Fruit and Vegetables

Aside from Woolworths (1 and 2) and Coles (3), there is one other REALLY good fruit and vegetable store in Cannonvale well worth a visit for slightly harder to get items. The ‘Prickly Pineapple’ (2) has an amazing range, I have found items such as finger limes, Thai

basil, giant couscous, vegan yoghurt, lemon grass, cheese pastes, dukkha, pastas (fresh and dried), and specialty chips there.

Meat

The ‘MBW on The Barbie’ (3), is the butcher store next to Coles. They have a nice range of continental meats and salamis prepackaged also.

Asian Grocery

There is really only one Asian grocer (3) in town and it is pretty small, located next to Coles (3) in Cannonvale. Its range is minimal, and in general I wouldn’t bother going there except for maybe a few curry pastes etc. Some Asian goods can be purchased from the ‘Prickly Pineapple’ next to Woolworths in Cannonvale and they can also be counted on for lots of fresh herbs, including Thai Basil, Vietnamese Mint, Lemongrass just to name a few (see above). Prior to living on our boat, when we were just charterers, I used to simply BYO curry pastes, powders, and spices rather that rely on the availability up here (and then the inevitable waste of throwing all those unused portions out once you leave).

Speciality seafood and cheeses

‘Fishi’ (5) in Cannonvale, just off the main road, has a great selection of fresh seafood, and also some awesome cheeses and other gourmet foods. They will package all this up for you if you contact them in advance.

Woolworths and Coles

Both are in Cannonvale and have a decent selection of grocery items, there is a second Woolworths just off the main strip in Airlie as well.

Bread

There is a ‘Brumby’s’ (2) in Cannonvale near Woolworths, however the best bread we found was in the Coles bakery section – a lovely range of sourdough and specialty breads.

Continental items

These are available in the deli Section of both Coles and Woolworths – reasonable quality, with Woolworths in Airlie Beach having a better selection of specialty pre-packaged sliced meats and cheeses.

Restaurants and Cafes

There are many to choose from in Airlie Beach, unfortunately most of them just repeat the same menu of burgers, pasta, pizza, and steak. Additionally, most of them have no table service and you spend most of the time lining up to order both your drinks and then later, food.

The standouts for us were (all these had table service and offered good to really good food):

• On the Airlie Beach Main Street: ‘Paradiso’ – which also has the bonus of an upstairs funky bar, and ‘La Tabella’.

• ‘La Marina Italia’ (Port of Airlie *7).

Notable mentions (not necessarily with table service):

*Click and Collect hints

• When selecting fresh produce like avocados – ask for a range of hardness so that they don’t all ripen at the same time.

• Remember you’ve probably got limited space on the yacht fridge (think of them as largish bar fridges) so things like bags of lettuce will take up huge amounts of space per meal, whereas heads of lettuce will supply heaps of meals for about the same amount of space.

• ALWAYS check the “unable to supply” list before you leave the store – that way you can make substitution decisions while you are still on land.

• Make bread decisions yourself, that way you can get the freshest bread.

• ‘Northerlies’ – 30 minutes out of town (but runs a free shuttle bus both ways) has great food, wood fired pizzas, and a huge outdoor area often with live music – well worth the trip if you have time.

• ‘The Rocks’ at Coral Sea Resort (6)

• ‘Sorrento’ at Coral Sea Marina (6)

• Roast chickens are an excellent lunch/ salad ingredient – I used to buy two, shred them into plastic containers, throw away the carcass before departing, and then freeze one container! www.lukimyu.com.au