60 Quick Crochet Projects for Beginners

60 ✽ Quick Crochet Projects FOR BEGINNERS

EASY PROJECTS FOR NEW CROCHETERS IN PACIFIC ® FROM CASCADE YARNS ®

THE EDITORS OF SIXTH&SPRING BOOKS

An imprint of SOHO Publishing LLC

19 West 21st St, Suite 601 New York, NY 10010 www.sixthandspring.com

E ditor

JACOB SEIFERT

Creative Director

IRENE LEDWITH

Art Director

DIANE LAMPHRON

Book Designers

DANITA ALBERT

JENNIFER MARKSON

Pattern Editors

JONI CONIGLIO

AMY GUNDERSON

AIMÉE HANSEN

JULIE ROBINSON

Technical Illustrations

AMY GUNDERSON

Photography

JACK DEUTSCH

Stylist

NATASHA SENKO THALMAN

Hair and Makeup

CINDY ADAMS

Technical Consultant

EDIE ECKMAN

How-to Swatches & Hand Model

ALEX MOORE (AlexIsCrafting)

Publisher

CAROLINE KILMER

President

ART JOINNIDES

Chairman

JAY STEIN

Copyright © 2023 Soho Publishing, LLC/Cascade Yarns

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher.

The written instructions, photographs, designs, projects, and patterns are intended for the personal, noncommercial use of the retail purchaser and are under federal copyright laws; they are not to be reproduced in any form for commercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy patterns for the personal use of the retail purchaser.

Items made from patterns in this book are for personal use only and are not intended for commercial resale.

WARNING: Buttons and other small items attached to crocheted items could present a choking hazard. Take care to attach them securely. Supervise child at all times.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Sixth & Spring Books, editor. | Cascade Yarns.

Title: 60 quick crochet projects for beginners : easy projects for new     crocheters in Pacific from Cascade Yarns / the Editors of Sixth&Spring     Books.

Other titles: Sixty quick crochet projects for beginners

Description: First edition. | New York, New York : Sixth&Spring Books,     [2023]

Identifiers: LCCN 2022048563 | ISBN 9781970048117 (paperback)

Subjects: LCSH: Crocheting--Patterns.

Classification: LCC TT820 .A1155 2023 | DDC 746.43/4041--dc23/ eng/20221013

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2022048563

Manufactured in China

www.cascadeyarns.com

INTRODUCTION

Discover Endless Possibilities

In an increasingly digital and fast-paced age, there has never been a more important time to disconnect and slow down. The human spirit craves something warm and tactile, and that’s why crochet continues to be one of the most popular handicrafts to this day.

With core techniques explained with stepby-step instruction and insightful sidebars throughout, this book will instill the knowledge and skills every new crocheter needs. There’s even a library of 60 skill-building patterns— containing scarves, shawls, blankets, hats, mittens, sweaters, and more—that is sure to keep crocheters stitching happily for many projects to come.

One thing crocheters learn early on is the importance of working with a yarn they love. That’s why every project in this book uses the Pacific® family of yarns from Cascade Yarns®. Available in multiple weights and dozens of beautiful colors, Pacific is beloved by countless yarn crafters. Blending superwash merino wool with high-quality acrylic, it is soft, durable, machine-washable, affordable, and perfect for virtually any project.

More than just a hobby, crocheting relieves

stress, stimulates the brain, and can be a way of providing meaningful service by donating handmade items to any of the countless charities that benefit the military, elderly, and needy. You can happily crochet alone or join a guild or group at your local yarn store, making it a perfect activity for introverts and extroverts alike.

So, what will you make? A hat? A scarf? A baby blanket? Maybe one—or more—of each?

Learning to crochet opens a world of endless possibilities. It’s all just a matter of picking up that hook, grabbing that yarn, and being patient with yourself as your skills grow.

Crochet really only requires two things: a crochet hook and yarn. However, there are other tools that often come in handy and will help you make your projects more professional.

Crochet Hooks {

Crochet hooks come in many different materials, styles, and sizes, but they all have the same parts. The tip, hook, and throat form the hooked end that is used to grab and pull the yarn to make stitches. The shaft, which comes in different thicknesses, determines the size of the hook. The handle is the long section that is held when crocheting.

Don't feel intimidated by the endless types of crochet hooks you will come across. Start with the basic aluminum style seen here. As you develop your skills and gain confidence, you can experiment with other materials and styles to see what you like best.

There are two classifications of crochet hooks: yarn hooks and steel hooks.

For the projects in this book, you will use yarn hooks. In the U.S., most hooks are sized by letter of the alphabet. As the letter goes up, so does the size (thickness) of the hook. Hook size can also be measured by

millimeters. Many hooks will list both their US and millimeter sizes. The chart on this page details some common, but not all, yarn hook sizes as established by the Craft Yarn Council. Not all companies that make crochet hooks follow these standards, but many do. In general, smaller hooks are used with thinner yarns and vice versa.

Steel hooks, which you will not use for projects in this book, are used with crochet thread. They are sized by number and reverse the equation; the larger the number, the smaller the hook.

YARN HOOK SIZES

Yarn

New crocheters may be surprised that there are more differences between yarns than just color. Yarn can be made from natural fibers like wool or cotton, synthetic materials like acrylic, or any combination of synthetic and/or natural materials. Regardless of what it’s made from, all yarn is grouped into basic categories by weight, meaning the thickness of the yarn, ranging from Lace (0) to Jumbo (7).

Most crochet patterns list a suggested yarn that will ensure you can recreate what you see in the supplied photo(s). Crocheting with yarns other than what is suggested is likely to alter the finished size, feel, and look of the fabric. Thus, it is always simplest to use the yarn listed in the pattern.

The projects in this book use four yarns from Cascade Yarns: Pacific Sport, Pacific, Pacific Chunky, and

Pacific Bulky. Each is made with the same composition of acrylic and superwash merino wool, with the main difference being in the weight (thickness) of each yarn. They are all affordable, durable, and machinewashable (see inside of back cover flap for care instructions). These yarns are available in many colors and can be purchased online and at many local crafting and yarn stores.

TIP

Keep the piece of paper that comes wrapped around a new skein of yarn. This is the “yarn label” or “ball band,” and it contains key information about that yarn (fiber content, color, dye lot, yardage/meters, suggested needle size, etc.) that may come in handy later. Cut off a short length of yarn and tie it to the label so you will always know what the yarn looks like.

Essential Tools {

RULER OR STITCH GAUGE

While rulers work just fine, stitch gauges have cut-out windows to help you measure your fabric’s gauge. If using a stitch gauge, we recommend using one that has at least a 4"/10cm window.

MEASURING TAPE

Beyond crochet hooks and yarns, these are the tools you will need for most crochet projects.

Instead of a ruler or stitch gauge, a measuring tape rolls up and can be more compact for when on the go. Many crafters like using retractable versions.

SCISSORS

Any pair will do, but many crocheters like to keep a small pair handy to snip yarns as needed.

STITCH MARKERS

For crochet, make sure your stitch markers are the kind that can open and close, not solid rings, so you can place them onto individual stitches as visual cues for increases, pattern repeats, or many other things. They can be made of plastic, metal, or other materials.

TAPESTRY NEEDLES

Also known as yarn needles, these are oversized needles made of wood, metal, or plastic. They are used for many purposes such as weaving in ends, sewing seams, and embroidering.

Crochet Basics Holding

the Hook

The first thing you need to do is learn how to hold a crochet hook. You can take your pick from one of these two methods below, or you can hold it however feels most comfortable to you.

KNIFE GRIP

With the tip and throat facing you, put your dominant thumb flat on the front of the handle a couple of inches away from the hook. Place your index finger on the back of the handle. Wrap your remaining fingers around the handle.

PENCIL GRIP

Hold the hook between your dominant thumb and index finger with the remaining fingers folded down, just as you would a pencil.

Holding the Yarn

Holding the yarn can be a bit tricky to get the hang of, but here is the general way to manage it.

As you crochet, the yarn will be connected to your work and hook. The yarn that leads from your work to the ball of yarn is called the "working yarn." The part of the yarn that ends is called the "end" or "tail."

Hold the yarn with the opposite hand you use to hold the crochet hook. Weave the yarn through your fingers and then drape it over your index finger

from back to front towards your body. The idea here is to create tension on the yarn while letting it flow through your fingers as you crochet. This enables you to use the hook to grab and pull the yarn.

Experiment with how you weave the yarn through or wrap around your fingers. You can do it any way that gives you the best result.

✽

Crochet Stitches

The following section explains the core crochet stitches that make up many patterns. Any special stitches that a pattern requires will be explained in that pattern.

Single Crochet (sc)

Insert hook under both loops of stitch. Wrap yarn over hook from back to front (making a

1 2 3 4

Yarn Over vs. Yarn Under

When wrapping the yarn around the hook for a yarnover, make sure to bring the yarn from back to front over the hook. That creates a yarnover.

Using

One single crochet stitch completed.

Take care not to bring the yarn from back to front under the hook, as that is a yarn under and will give you a different result.

yarnover).

Using hook, draw yarn under both loops of stitch.

There are now 2 loops on hook. Yarn over.

hook, draw yarnover through both loops on hook.

Practice

The best way to learn crochet is by simply doing it. Before beginning your first project, practice each of the basic stitches you just learned. The more you practice, the more you'll become comfortable with holding the yarn, maneuvering your hook, memorizing how to work each stitch, and knowing what your stitches should look like.

SINGLE CROCHET

Make a slipknot and chain 22. Set-up row Single crochet into second chain from hook and each chain across. You will have 21 single crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Row 1 Chain 1 (turning chain, does not count as a stitch), single crochet into each stitch across. You will have a row of 21 single crochet stitches. Turn your work. Repeat row 1 until you feel comfortable making the single crochet stitch. Fasten off.

TREBLE CROCHET

Make a slipknot and chain 20. Set-up row Treble crochet into fifth chain from hook and each chain across. You will have 16 treble crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Row 1 Chain 4 (turning chain, does not count as a stitch), treble crochet into each stitch across. You will have a row of 16 treble crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Repeat row 1 until you feel comfortable making the treble crochet stitch. Fasten off.

HALF DOUBLE CROCHET

Make a slipknot and chain 20. Set-up row Half double crochet into third chain from hook and each chain across. You will have 18 half double crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Row 1 Chain 2 (turning chain, does not count as a stitch), half double crochet into each stitch across. You will have a row of 18 half double crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Repeat row 1 until you feel comfortable making the half double crochet stitch. Fasten off.

DOUBLE CROCHET

Make a slipknot and chain 21. Set-up row Double crochet into fourth chain from hook and each chain across. You will have 18 double crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Row 1 Chain 3 (turning chain, does not count as a stitch), double crochet into each stitch across. You will have a row of 18 double crochet stitches. Turn your work.

Repeat row 1 until you feel comfortable making the double crochet stitch. Fasten off.

Count It Out

It is very easy to accidently skip working a stitch and end a row/ round with too few stitches. You can also easily work into a stitch or space you shouldn't have and end with too many stitches. Count your stitches at the end of a row/round to make sure you're on track.

✽ Reading Patterns

At first glance, a crochet pattern, also known as instructions, can look like it is written in code:

Row 1 (RS) Ch 1 (does not count as st throughout), *sc in each of next 3 sts, 1 hdc; rep from * to end, turn.

The abbreviations, symbols, and terminology you see are common among crochet patterns and are used to save space and make instructions easier and faster to read. As you work more with these patterns, reading them will become easier and quicker for you.

All of the abbreviations used in this book are explained on this page. They can also be found inside the front cover flap, which can be flipped outward for a quick reference while working a pattern.

Differences in Terminology

The abbreviations and terminology used in this book reflect those in common use in the United States of America. The United Kingdom uses different terms for some things, a few of which are noted here.

Abbreviations

2nd, 3rd second, third, etc.

A, B, C color A, B, C, etc. approx approximately beg begin(ing)(s) bet between

BL back loop

BLO (in) back loop(s) only

BPdc back post double crochet

CC contrasting color

ch(s) chain(s)

ch- refers to chain or space previously made

ch- sp(s) chain space(s) previously made cl cluster

cm centimeter(s) cont continu(e)(ing)

dc double crochet (U.K. tr— treble crochet)

dc2tog double crochet 2 stitches together—1 stitch decreased dc3tog double crochet 3 stitches together—2 stitches decreased dec decreas(e)(es)(ing)

dec'd decreased

FL front loop

foll follow(ing)(s)

FPdc front post double crochet

g grams

hdc half double crochet (U.K. htr— half treble crochet)

hdc2tog half double crochet 2 stitches together—1 stitch decreased inc increas(e)(es)(ing)

inc'd increased

lp(s) loop(s)

m meter(s)

MC main color

mm millimeter(s)

oz ounces pat(s) pattern(s)

pm place marker

prev previous rem remain(ing)(s) rep(s) repeat(s)

rev reverse rnd(s) round(s)

RS right side(s)

sc single crochet (U.K. dc—double crochet)

sc2tog single crochet 2 stitches together—1 stitch decreased sc3tog single crochet 3 stitches together—2 stitches decreased sk skip(ped)

sl slip

sl st(s) slip stitch(es) (U.K. ss)

sp(s) space(s)

st(s) stitch(es)

t-ch turning chain

tog together

tr treble crochet (U.K. dtr—double treble crochet)

tr2tog treble crochet 2 stitches together—1 stitch decreased WS wrong side(s)

yd yard(s)

yo yarn over (U.K. yoh—yarn over hook)

[ ] or ( ) work directions in brackets or parentheses the number of times indicated

( ) indication to work what is within the parentheses into the same stitch or space OR a note

* or ** repeat directions following * or ** as many times as indicated

Elements of a Pattern

SKILL LEVEL

Every project in this book has been divided into four skill levels specific to this book. Each skill level is described below. The appropriate symbol appears at the beginning of each pattern.

Basic stitches and techniques with minimal finishing.

Simple stitch patterns, shaping, finishing, and techniques.

Moderate stitch patterns, shaping, finishing, and techniques.

Involved stitch patterns and shaping. May include advanced techniques. Experience with matching required gauge, blocking, and seaming is recommended.

This book is organized with the easiest projects at the beginning and progresses in difficulty from there. All projects—even the garments— are appropriate for those newer to crochet. This collection was created to help you build skills and successfully create increasingly complex projects.

MEASUREMENTS AND SIZES

Every pattern provides key measurements for the completed project. If the project is a garment or something that is worn, it may also list sizes such as small, medium, large, etc.

MATERIALS

These are the materials required

to complete the project. The yarn, including colors and number of skeins required, as well as hook sizes, tools, and finishing materials are all listed here. Review the materials list before beginning a pattern to ensure you have everything you need.

NOTES

Some patterns include helpful notes that relate to anything from the project's construction to finishing techniques. Read these carefully and bear them in mind as you work.

STITCH GLOSSARY

If a pattern uses special stitches, how to work them will be described here. These will never include basic stitches or ones that are commonly known.

GAUGE

Every pattern in this book lists a gauge, which is the number of stitches and rows/rounds in specific measurements. When crocheting something that fits the body, gauge is crucial. If your work does not match the listed gauge, your finished project could be either too large or too small.

Before starting a project, check your gauge by making a gauge swatch. Use the listed yarn and hook size to work the stated stitch or pattern over enough stitches and rows/rounds until you have a piece of fabric at least the size of the stated measurements.

If the gauge is over a basic stitch, such as single crochet, chain a number of stitches and work enough rows/ rounds to make a piece of fabric of

at least the stated size. Some gauges are paired with notes on how to create the gauge swatch. Follow those instructions. A number of gauges are worked over a specific part of the pattern, like a motif. Follow the pattern to make that portion.

Once complete, measure the gauge swatch. If you have too many stitches or rows/rounds within the stated measurements then your stitches are too small. Make a new gauge swatch using a hook one or two sizes larger. If you have too few stitches or rows/ rounds, then your stitches are too big. Make a new gauge swatch using a hook one or two sizes smaller.

It might take a few attempts to match the proper gauge, but the extra effort upfront ensures your project will be the correct size when completed.

While gauge is not crucial for projects that do not require good fit, such as a scarf, it is still recommended to check and match the stated gauge.

SCHEMATICS

Schematics are to-scale line drawings of finished projects and/or its pieces. They are marked with important measurements, listed in all sizes, when applicable. Additional markings are explained in a key. Schematics most often appear in patterns that fit the body, such as a garment.

DIAGRAMS

Some patterns have diagrams, helpful illustrations that clarify the creation of the project. Patterns often reference the diagram whenever you should refer to it.

More About Patterns

ROWS VS. ROUNDS

When crocheting, you will work in rows or rounds. When working in rows, turn your work when you reach a side edge, then work back across the other side on the following row.

When working in rounds, you can do so in a few ways. You can work across all outside edges of a piece, increasing at specific intervals as you go so that it grows outward. You can also work without increasing stitches to create a tube.

Further descriptions of how you can work in the round are as follows:

Joined Rounds

Once you reach the end of the round, you join to the beginning of the round you just worked with a slip stitch. You then work the next round with the same side facing. You do not turn your work.

Joined, Turned Rounds

Once you reach the end of a round, join to the beginning of the round you just worked with a slip stitch, then turn your work. You then work the next round, going back the direction you just came, with the other side facing.

Marking the First Stitch

If you find it difficult to locate the first or last stitch of your rows and rounds, work the first stitch of a row or round and then place a marker into the top of it. Continue as usual. The marker will be a visual cue you can’t miss.

When working in rows, you will have two markers, one at each end of the row. This is because you work back and forth, which makes the first stitch of a row the last stitch of the following row. Work across the row to the marked stitch, work the final stitch of the row into it, and then remove the marker.

When working in the round, the last

The right side (RS) is the side of the fabric that people will see once the project is complete. The wrong side (WS) is the side of the fabric that people will not see. This is crucial to keep track of while crocheting

stitch of the round is the stitch before the marker. Work the final stitch of the round, remove the marker, and then work the first stitch of the next round, placing the marker in that new stitch.

Whether you work in rows or rounds, one thing to keep in mind is the turning chain. When a turning chain is counted as a stitch, place the marker into the last chain of the turning chain. If a turning chain does not count as a stitch, then do not place the marker into it, but into what counts as the first stitch of that row or round.

RS vs. WS

so design elements and shaping are placed correctly.

Periodically throughout many patterns, RS or WS is listed as a cue as to which side should be worked. If you are on the opposite side indicated,

Continuous Spiral

Once you reach the end of the round, do not join. Rather, continue going without using a turning chain.

While most projects are either worked in rows or rounds, some are worked both in rows and rounds. When a pattern mixes the two, it will explicitly state when each method is used. Pay careful attention to each line of instruction as it will list “Row X” or “Rnd X.” This is an extra reminder as to whether you will work in rows or in the round.

check your work to see how you got off track. You might have to undo your work to the point where you got off track and proceed again from there to make sure the project is completed accurately.

✽ More About Crochet

Moving beyond the basics of crochet, this section will teach you all the techniques you need to know to successfully complete any project in this book.

Decreasing

A common way to decrease stitches is to work multiple stitches together. This can apply to any number of stitches using any stitch. For example, some common decreases are dc2tog (double crochet 2 stitches together) and sc3tog (single crochet 3 stitches together).

When decreasing stitches in this manner, work the stitch stated in the

DC2TOG

decrease into the next stitch up until the point where you would work the final yarnover to pull it through the remaining loops on the hook. Work the next stitch(es) in the same manner.

Once you have worked the correct number of incomplete stitches, yarn over once more and pull it through all loops on the hook. See the photos

(double crochet 2 stitches together)

Work 1 double crochet as usual up until you would work the final yarnover to pull it through the remaining loops to complete the stitch.

There are now 2 loops on hook.

Work 1 double crochet in the next stitch as you did for the first double crochet in step 1.

There are now 3 loops on hook.

below and on the following page for a couple of examples.

This same approach applies to any type of decrease where you work multiple stitches together: work each stitch until the last yarnover, then yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook.

Yarn over. Using hook, draw yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

One dc2tog decrease completed.

Working with Multiple Colors

Some projects in this book have you work with multiple colors. Most will have you work with only one color at a time, but some will have you work with two colors at once.

CHANGING COLORS

When working with only one color at a time, such as for stripes, the standard method for changing colors is as follows:

1 2

Note If a pattern would have you change colors in a different manner, it will direct you how to do so. Unless otherwise stated, use the above method for changing colors.

CARRYING YARNS UP SIDES VS CUTTING YARNS

When working sections of multiple colors, you will have to decide whether you should cut the yarn or carry it up the work.

Yarns should only be carried up your work over stripes that have one or two rows/rounds. Carrying yarns over stripes wider than that can lead to uneven tension at color changes, bothersome strands, and a sloppy look.

When working wide stripes or sections of color, change to the new color, and then cut and fasten off the old color that will not be used, leaving a

tail long enough to weave in later. When carrying yarns up the side of your work, leave an even tension that won't cause your fabric to bunch while not leaving the strands too loose. Unless otherwise directed, carry the yarn up along the wrong side of the work so that the strands do not show once the project is finished.

WORKING MUTLIPLE COLORS IN THE SAME ROW/ROUND

If working with 2 colors in the same row or round, work each stitch with the appropriate color while carrying the color not in use along the wrong

side. Keep an even tension when carrying the unused yarn. If it is too tight, it could cause the fabric to pucker. If it is too loose, it could easily snag on things later.

JOINING NEW COLORS WITH A SLIP STITCH

Some patterns, such as motifs worked in the round, might instruct you to join a new color with a slip stitch. Join as instructed. Unless told otherwise, do not count the slip stitch as part of your stitch count.

Work with the current color to the final yarnover in the final stitch that will be in that color.

Using the new color, yarn over and use the hook to pull it through the remaining loops on the hook to complete the stitch. You are now ready to continue with the new color.

Embroidery

Embroidery is a great and simple way to add detail to your crochet projects. Use a tapestry needle and the required color of yarn or embroidery floss. Here are just a few embroidery stitches you can use.

BACK STITCH

WHIP STITCH

CHAIN STITCH SATIN STITCH

✽ Beginner's Beauty

A beautiful project isn't dependent upon a complex pattern. Here, a basic rectangle in a simple pattern is elevated by folding and seaming.

3Coast Guard

Worked from the inside out, these simple coasters sport varying bands of blue to protect your surfaces in style.

DESIGNED BY SOPHIA MINAKAIS

Finished Measurements

Diameter 5"/12.5cm

Materials

■ 1 3½oz/100g skein (approx 213yd/195m) of Cascade Yarns Pacific (acrylic/superwash merino wool) each in #28 Blue (A) and #85 Cobalt (B)

■ One size H-8 (5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

Gauge

20 sts and 16 rows to 4"/10cm over hdc using size H-8 (5mm) hook. Take time to check gauge.

Notes

1) Coasters are worked from the center outward in joined rounds. Do not turn the work.

2) When changing colors, fasten off the old color and join the new color with slip stitch into any stitch.

Coaster Set

STYLE A

With A, make a magic ring (see page 29). Rnd 1 8 sc in magic ring, join with sl st to first sc—8 sc.

Inc rnd 2 2 hdc in each sc around, sl st in first hdc to join—16 hdc.

Rnd 3 Hdc in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join.

Inc rnd 4 2 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join—32 hdc.

Rnd 5 Hdc in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join.

Inc rnd 6 2 hdc in each hdc around, sl st in first hdc to join—64 hdc. Fasten off A. Join B.

Rnd 7 Ch 1 (counts as sc), *ch 3, sk next hdc, sc in next hdc; rep from * to last hdc of rnd, ch 3, sk last hdc, sl st in beg ch-1. Fasten off B.

Note Work styles B, C, and D same as for style A in the foll color sequences:

STYLE B

With A, make magic ring and work rnds

1–5. Fasten off A. Join B.

With B, work rnd 6. Fasten off B. Join A. With A, work rnd 7. Fasten off A.

STYLE C

With A, make magic ring and work rnds

1–5. Fasten off A. Join B.

With B, work rnds 6 and 7. Fasten off B.

STYLE D

With A, make magic ring and work rnds

1–3. Fasten off A. Join B.

With B, work rnds 4 and 5. Fasten off B. Join A.

With A, work rnds 6 and 7. Fasten off A.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Block lightly. •

✽ Super Stripes

Stripes are a great way to give patterns extra visual interest. Consider making your own stripe sequence or adding additional colors to make a project your own.

✽

Just Keep Going

The great thing about scarves is you can make them as short or as long as you like—just make sure you have enough yarn.

✽ Brawn and Beauty

Single crochet is a firm stitch that is used for many items that need a bit more structure or strength. It also creates a great texture.

Modular Moments

Crocheting a blanket as separate squares makes it much more manageable as you won’t have to wrestle with an ever larger piece of fabric. Just seam all the squares together in the end.

Don't Get Shellshocked

Don’t worry if something looks complicated. Carefully read the pattern, and take your time when working through it. Practice and patience make perfect!

Marking Chains

If you need to work into the turning chain at the end of a row/round, mark the specific chain you will work into as soon as you make it. This makes it easier to find later on.

✽ Ride the Wave

The waves of this classic stitch pattern create what is called a chevron.

✽ So it Seams

When using a crochet or slip stitch to seam together edges, the seam will show on whichever side shows as you seam. If you want the seam (hidden) on the WS, work the seam with the WS showing, and vice-versa.

16 Bobble -Topped

DESIGNED BY CRISTINA MERSHON

Finished Measurements

Brim circumference 22¼"/56.5cm Height 9"/23cm

Materials

■ 2 3½oz/100g skeins (each approx 213yd/195m) of Cascade Yarns Pacific (acrylic/superwash merino wool) in #15

Taupe

■ One size E-4 (3.5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

■ One faux-fur pompom (optional)

Gauge

19 sts and 19 rows to 4"/10cm over body st pat* using size E-4 (3.5mm) hook. Take time to check gauge.

*Ch 22, work foundation row and row

1—21 sts. Work row 2 of hat, omitting first 10 and last 5 sts of row (only work popcorn body pat), work rows 3–5, then rep rows 2–5.

Notes

1) Hat is a rectangle worked from side to side without increasing or decreasing.

2) Slip stitches are worked to create ribbing. Crown and rest of the hat is worked in the body stitch pattern.

3) Except in foundation row, all stitches are worked through the back loops.

Stitch Glossary hdc pc (half double crochet popcorn stitch) 4 hdc in indicated st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first hdc, place dropped lp on hook, draw through st.

Hat

Ch 44.

Foundation row (RS) Working in back bumps, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (skipped st does not count as st) and in each rem ch across, turn—43 sl sts. Row 1 (WS) Ch 1 (does not count as st throughout), sl st BLO in each st across, turn.

Row 2 Ch 1, sl st in each of first 10 sts (ribbing), [hdc pc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 sts] 7 times (body), sl st in each of last 5 sts (crown), turn—21 hdc, 15 sl sts, 7 hdc pc.

Rows 3–5 Rep row 1.

Rows 6–105 Rep rows 2–5 twenty-five times more.

Joining row With WS of first and last rows held tog, and working through both thicknesses, sl st BLO in each st across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for closing top of hat.

FINISHING

Weave tail through ends of rows at crown of hat, pull gently to close, and secure tail. Weave in ends. If desired, secure pompom to top of hat. •

A half double crochet popcorn stitch is worked side to side in a rectangle, with slip stitches and ribbing providing the hat shape.

Stuffed

When making something that is to be stuffed, a firm gauge is best to help prevent the stuffing from showing through. Take care not to overstuff.

✽ Find the Rhythm

The increases and decreases in this beret are worked at regular intervals. Once you get the rhythm of a repetitive pattern, it'll become a lot easier.

Double the Fun

When working with 2 strands of yarn held together, take care to always hook both strands. It's easy to drop one along the way, which could leave what look like snags.

You’ll have your popcorn stitch down to a science working this crowd-pleasing beanie. The ribbing is achieved with front post and back post double crochet.

DESIGNED BY EDIE ECKMAN

Finished Measurements

Brim circumference 20"/51cm Height 8½"/21.5cm

Materials

■ 1 3½oz/100g skein (approx 213yd/ 195m) of Cascade Yarns Pacific (acrylic/ superwash merino wool) each in #163 Spring Crocus (A), #38 Violet (B), #147 Orchid Mist (C), and #26 Lavender (D)

■ One size J-10 (6mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

Gauge

Rnds 1–4 of pat to 4"/10cm diameter using size J-10 (6mm) hook. Take time to check gauge.

Note

Hat is worked in joined rounds from the top down.

Stitch Glossary pc (popcorn) 5 dc in indicated st, drop lp from hook, insert hook from front to back through top of first dc, place dropped lp on hook and draw through first st.

Color Sequence

Work 1 rnd with A, 1 rnd with B, 1 rnd with C, 1 rnd with D. Rep these 4 rnds for color sequence.

CROWN

With A, ch 4, sl st in first ch to form ring. Inc rnd 1 Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), 11 dc in ring and change to B, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 dc. Inc rnd 2 With B, ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each st around and change to C, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join —24 dc.

Inc rnd 3 With C, ch 3, pc in next st, *dc in next st, pc in next st; rep from * around and change to D, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—12 pc, 12 dc.

Inc rnd 4 With D, ch 3, dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each rem st around, change to A, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join —48 dc.

Rnd 5 With A, ch 3, dc in each st around and change to B, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—48 dc.

Inc rnd 6 With B, ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc in each of next 3 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts; rep from * around and change to C, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—60 dc.

BODY

Rnd 7 With C, ch 3, pc in next st, *dc in next st, pc in next st; rep from * around and change to next color in sequence, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—30 pc, 30 dc.

Rnds 8–10 Ch 3, dc in each st around and change to next color in sequence, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join—60 dc. Rnds 11–16 Rep rnds 7–10 once, then rep rnds 7 and 8 once more, change to A at end of last rnd.

RIBBING

Rnd 1 With A, ch 3, dc in each st around, sl st in top of beg ch-3 to join. Rnds 2 and 3 Ch 2 (does not count as st), *FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st; rep from * around, sl st in top of first FPdc to join. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. •

✽

Fringe Benefits

This pattern tells you how to make the fringe you see in the photo, but if you want it fuller, more spaced out, longer, or shorter, then make it to your preferences.

✽

Think It Through

If you find instructions confusing, read them over a few times while visualizing the results that are described. Try reading further than just the next step to get a better idea of the larger process.

Just One (or Three) More

With smaller projects that use multiple colors, use the leftover yarn to make a second, or third, or fourth! Try mixing up the color sequence for new looks.

✽ From Basic to Fantastic

Many garments and accessories can be made from crocheting a basic shape, seaming an edge or two, and then adding some finishing touches.

✽ Fun Fun Fun

Crochet is well-known for having super cute projects, including little toys, adorable blankets and pillows, whimsical baskets, and so much more.

✽ Building Blocks

Many patterns start with a core element and build from there. This project's core element is a granny square. Adding additional fabric, handles, and button-like embellishments turn it into a reusable tote.

Color Your Couch

Use your favorite colors or stick to a theme for various times of the year or holidays. Crocheted pillow covers are a great way to switch up your décor whenever the fancy strikes you.

43 All Buttoned Up

Using only the simplest of stitches, this cowl features a beautiful, slightly swelling and shrinking stripe pattern, accented with a row of buttons to close.

DESIGNED BY LINDA M. PERRY

Finished Measurements

Circumference (buttoned) 25½"/65cm Height 7"/18cm

Materials

■ 1 3½oz/100g skein (approx 213yd/195m) of Cascade Yarns Pacific (acrylic/superwash merino wool) each in #46 Lapis (A), #15 Taupe (B), and #95 Lime Green (C)

■ One size I-9 (5.5mm) crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

■ Four 1¼"/32mm buttons

Gauge

16 sts and 11 rows to 4"/10cm over smooth wave pat* using size I-9 (5.5mm) hook.

Take time to check gauge.

*Work pattern and measure gauge when you have enough fabric to do so.

Cowl

BUTTONBAND

With A, ch 29.

Foundation row (WS) Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each rem ch across, turn—28 sc.

Rows 1–5 Ch 1 (does not count as st throughout), sc in each st across, turn —28 sc.

Row 6 (WS) Ch 1, sc in each of first 4 sc, [dc in each of next 4 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc] 3 times and change to B in last st, turn—28 sts. Fasten off A.

SMOOTH WAVE PATTERN

Rows 1 and 2 With B, ch 3 (counts as dc throughout), sk first st, dc in each of next 3 sts, [sc in each of next 4 sts, dc in each of next 4 sts] 3 times, turn—28 sts. Change to A at end of row 2. Fasten off B.

Rows 3 and 4 With A, ch 1, sc in each of first 4 sts, [dc in each of next 4 sts, sc in each of next 4 sts] 3 times, turn.

Change to C at end of row 4. Fasten off A.

Rows 5 and 6 With C, rep rows 1 and 2 and change to A. Fasten off C. Rows 7 and 8 With A, rep rows 3 and 4 and change to B. Fasten off A.

Rows 9–67 Rep rows 1–8 seven times more, then rep rows 1–3 once more. Do not fasten off A.

BUTTONHOLE BAND

Rows 1–3 Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Row 4 Ch 1, sc in each of first 4 sts, *ch 3 and sk next 3 sts (buttonhole), sc in each of next 3 sts; rep from * 3 times more, turn.

Row 5 Ch 1, sc in each st and ch-sp across, turn.

Rows 6–8 Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Weave in ends. Sew buttons to buttonband opposite buttonholes. Button cowl and block to finished measurements. •

✽ Button, Button

The buttons you use can entirely change the look and feel of a garment or accessory. From novelty to vintage, bright plastics to natural woods, the possibilities are endless.

All in the Details

Embroidery is a great technique that can add a lot of detail to a crochet project. Here, little facial details make for an even cuter panda pillow.

48 Corner Pockets

Comfort and function are in harmony, combining a lush texture with join-as-you-go pockets at either end.

Finished Measurements

Width 10"/25.5cm

Length 65½"/166cm

Materials

■ 6 3½oz/100g skeins (each approx 120yd/110m) of Cascade Yarns Pacific Chunky (acrylic/superwash merino wool) in #146 Grape Juice

■ One size 7mm crochet hook, or size to obtain gauge

Gauge

15 sts and 12 rows to 4"/10cm over body pat* using size 7mm hook. Take time to check gauge.

*Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch—15 sc. Work row 2 of body—8 sc and 7 ch-1 sps. Work row 3 of body—9 sc and 6 ch-1 sps. Rep rows 2 and 3.

Note

Wrong side of pockets will face right side of scarf body when pockets are folded.

Scarf POCKET Ch 15.

Row 1 (WS of pocket) Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, [sl st in next ch, hdc in next ch] 6 times, sl st in last ch, turn—7 hdc and 7 sl sts.

DESIGNED BY AMBER BLISS CALDERÓN POCKET

Inc row 2 Ch 1 (does not count as st throughout), hdc in first sl st, *sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st; rep from * to last hdc, (sl st, hdc) in last hdc, turn —8 hdc and 7 sl st.

Inc row 3 Ch 1, (hdc, sl st) in first hdc, *hdc in next sl st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end, turn—8 hdc and 8 sl sts. Rep rows 2 and 3 sixteen times more— 24 hdc and 24 sl sts. Do not turn after last row.

BODY

Rotate 90 degrees clockwise to work along WS of straight edge of pocket.

Row 1 (RS of body) Ch 1, sc in each row end across, turn—35 sc.

Row 2 Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next sc; rep from * across, turn —18 sc and 17 ch-1 sp.

Row 3 Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in next ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last sc, sc in last sc, turn —19 sc and 16 ch-1 sp.

Row 4 Ch 1, sc in first sc, *ch 1, sk next sc, sc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * to last 2 sc, ch 1, sk next sc, sc in last sc, turn —18 sc and 17 ch-1 sp.

Rows 5–196 Rep rows 3 and 4 for 96 times more.

Row 197 Ch 1, sc in each sc and ch-1 sp across, turn—35 sc.

Rotate 90 degrees clockwise to begin pocket, joining to scarf as you go. Ch 15. Row 1 (RS of pocket) Hdc in 2nd ch from hook, [sl st in next ch, hdc in next ch] 6 times, sl st in last ch, sl st in first and 2nd sc from row 197 of body, turn —7 hdc and 9 sl sts.

Row 2 Sk 2 sl sts, hdc in next sl st, *sl st in next hdc, hdc in next sl st; rep from * to last hdc, (sl st, hdc) in last hdc, turn —8 hdc and 7 sl sts.

Row 3 Ch 1, (hdc, sl st) in first hdc, *hdc in next sl st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end of pocket, sl st in next 2 sc from row 197 of body, turn—8 hdc and 10 sl sts. Rows 4–33 Rep rows 2 and 3 fifteen times more—23 hdc and 25 sl sts.

Row 34 Rep row 2—24 hdc and 23 sl sts. Row 35 Ch 1, (hdc, sl st) in first hdc, *hdc in next sl st, sl st in next hdc; rep from * to end of pocket, sl st in last sc from row 197 of body—24 hdc and 24 sl sts. Fasten off.

FINISHING

Fold pockets up on RS of body. Join yarn at bottom of pocket on one long side of scarf, sc in each row end of scarf side (working through both thicknesses of pocket and scarf body)—197 sts. Rep along 2nd scarf side. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block, if desired. •

✽ Make Room

Because different crochet stitches have varying heights, pairing them in the same pattern often creates textural movement across the fabric, as in the body of this hat.

✽ Seeing in Color

While this bag looks incredible in a single color, you could insert accent hexagons in one or more contrasting colors. It's a simple way to personalize what you make.

All Tied Up

If you find the ties for this project too difficult to make, substitute in something else such as a simple chain or maybe a couple of rows of single crochet.

INDEX ✽

A

Ahoy 104

All Buttoned Up 136

At Ease 91 B

Baby's First Herringbone 52 bag

Boho Sprinkles 170

Hive Bag 168

Market Square 127

Shopper, The 119

Tying the Knot 62 basket

Little Acorn Basket 116

Stash in a Dash 44 beads

Boho Sprinkles 170 beret

Chapeau du Jour 73 blanket

Baby's First Herringbone 52

Dragon's Rainbow 84

Hue and Tassel 40

Kaleidoscopic 155

Pulse 47

Whisper 122

blocking 29 bobbles

Bobble-Topped 68

Oasis 98

Poppin' 82

Bobble-Topped 68

Boho Sprinkles 170

Bolt 138

Boomerang 96

booties

Winter Slippers 100

Brainwaves 26

Bucket List 165

buttons

All Buttoned Up 136

Pieces 182

cardigan

Comfort Cocoon 141

Pieces 182

Pretty Posy 144

Sugar 174

Chapeau du Jour 73

Checkerboard 88

chevron

Ripple Roundabout 58

Coast Guard 38 coasters

Coast Guard 38

Comfort Cocoon 141

Corner Pockets 150 cowl

All Buttoned Up 136

May Flowers 124

Ripple Roundabout 58

Shell Trio 50

Sideways Rhythm 130

This and That 65

Twist 36

Cozy Retreat, A 79 crab stitch see reverse single crochet

crochet basics 10 foundation chain 12 counting chain stitches 13 parts of 12 working into 13 holding the hook 10 holding the yarn 10 make a slipknot 11

crochet stitches, how to 15

double crochet 17

half double crochet 16

slip stitch 19

single crochet 15

treble crochet 18

turning chain 19

Curlicue 102

Ddecreasing 25

Dragon's Rainbow 84 E

embroidery how to 33

Patchwork Panda 147

fastening off 21

Field of Saplings 160

fringe

Checkerboard 88

Windows of Opportunity 54

front/back post double crochet (FPdc/BPdc)

Comfort Cocoon 141

Hive Bag 168

how to 27

Pieces 182

Poppin' 82

Une Mariniere 110

Ggranny squares

Market Square 127

May Flowers 124

New Groove 113

Patchwork Panda 147

Polka Squares 178

Pulse 47

Squared Away 158

Sugar 174

Whirl 152 H

hat

Brainwaves 26

Bobble-Topped 68

Bucket List 165

Chapeau du Jour 73

Curlicue 102

Oasis 98

On Top 34

Poppin' 82

Stripey and Slouchy 56

This and That 65

Topsy 106

Whirl 152

Hive Bag 168

Hue and Tassel 40

increasing 26

Kaleidoscopic 155 L

lace Bolt 138

Marigold 42

May Flowers 124

Poppin' 82

Little Acorn Basket 116

magic ring how to 29

Magenta-Handed 108

Marigold 42

Market Square 127

marking the first stitch 24

May Flowers 124

mesh

Ahoy 104

Shopper, The 119

mitts

Magenta-Handed 108

Pebble Wristers 162

Squared Away 158

New Groove 113

O

Oasis 98 on the bias

Dragon's Rainbow 84

Orange Crush 86

Sideways Rhythm 130

Tonal Tangram 133

Vertices 76

On Top 34

Orange Crush 86

Patchwork Panda 147

Pebble Wristers 162

pet bed

Cozy Retreat, A 79

picot

May Flowers 124

Pieces 182

pillow

Rainbow Cuddles 70

Tonal Tangram 133

Polka Squares 178

pompom

Bobble-Topped 68

On Top 34

Patchwork Panda 147

Topsy 106

Vertices 76

Poppin' 82

practice (stitches) 20

Pretty Posy 144

pullover

At Ease 91

Polka Squares 178

Une Mariniere 110

Pulse 47

Purple Passion 187

Rainbow Cuddles 70

reading patterns 22

abbreviations 22

elements of a pattern 23

reverse single crochet how to 28

Little Acorn Basket 116

Whirl 152

Ripple Roundabout 58 rows vs rounds 24

RS vs WS 24 ruffle

Ahoy 104

S

seaming 31

mattress stitch 31

single crochet 32

slip stitch 32

whip stitch 32 scarf

Checkerboard 88

Corner Pockets 150

New Groove 113

Super-sized 60

Windows of Opportunity 54 shawl

Ahoy 104

Bolt 138

Boomerang 96

Field of Saplings 160

Orange Crush 86

Purple Passion 187

Vertices 76

Shell Trio 50

Shopper, The 119

Sideways Rhythm 130

split single crochet (splsc) how to 28

Little Acorn Basket 116

Squared Away 158

Stash in a Dash 44

stole

Marigold 42

Stripey and Slouchy 56

Sugar 174

Super-sized 60

Ttassels

Boomerang 96

Curlicue 102

Hue and Tassel 40

This and That 65

This and That 65

tie(s)

Pretty Posy 144

Sugar 174

This and That 65

Whirl 152

Tonal Tangram 133

tools 6

crochet hooks 6 essential tools 8

optional tools 9

yarn 7

Topsy 106

toy

Patchwork Panda 147

Twist 36

Tying the Knot 62

Une Mariniere 110

Vertices 76

v-neck

Pieces 182

Une Mariniere 110

weaving in ends 21

Whirl 152

Whisper 122

Windows of Opportunity 54

Winter Slippers 100

working with multiple colors 30

wrap see shawl

wristers see mitts

Learn to Crochet & Create Anything

If you’ve ever wanted to learn how to crochet or are looking to expand your crochet abilities, 60 Quick Crochet Projects for Beginners is the book you’ve been waiting for. Here, you will learn all of the basic crochet stitches and essential techniques you need to know thanks to clear language and illustrated stepby-step instructions. A collection of 60 blankets, hats, scarves, shawls, pullovers, and more gives you plenty to make while promoting the mastery of core skills and additional techniques. Using only the Pacific ® family of yarns, the durable, machine-washable, and affordable classic from Cascade Yarns®, this book ensures that every project will make an impressive gift or cherished personal treasure. So grab your hooks and yarn. It’s time to make something beautiful.

LEARN TO CROCHET Step-by Step Photos

$19.99 US • $25.99 CANADA

ISBN: 978-1-970048-11-7