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This day started out tough, we drove to Chopes at 5am for our last hope of scoring it. It was howling side-shore and raining cats and dogs... READ MORE INSIDE //
{ISSUE 20 // 2014}
ALWAYS LATE BUT WORTH THE WAIT JARED HOUSTON @ TAHITI // BY CHRIS GURNEY
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...Upon arriving back in town, we found Tapuuna (The most consistent wave) to be glassy and fun, although we figured we best try to get something different. We boarded a 1 hour ferry to the next island, hitchhiked 40 mins to this right hand point only to find it about 4ft to big and foaming. The keenest of us surfed for an hour or so, before heading back to the ferry. All admitting defeat, beers flowed and we were merry. Arriving back in Tahiti, Pierre, Lewy, Miller and myself swung by Tapuuna, just for a last look. This invert, amongst other things went down in the best hour of surf on the whole trip, with just 2 mates and a media crew at our disposal.
...Bliss
{ISSUE 20 // 2014}
ALWAYS LATE BUT WORTH THE WAIT SIXTY40.CO.ZA
Andre Botha. Where: Weskus By: Cobus Bosman Who: Andre Botha
They say pictures are worth a thousand words, this one however only brings two to mind... ~ Cobus
AVAILABLE NOVEMBER 2013 COUNTRYWIDE
“ T H E S H A P E T H AT H A S G OT T EN M E TO T H I S P O I N T I N MY CA REER. T RI ED, T EST ED & T R U ST E D ”
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P RI D E B O DY B OA R DS .CO M
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Image by Spex // Empty_ANTOFAGASTA
‘Youth is wasted on the young.’ George Bernard Shaw
In our rather typical fashion, we like to make as much of a representation of the Saffa bodyboarding scene as content will allow. In this issue we manage to take this a step further. From Ozzie upstart, Spencer Frost, visiting our shores and scoring some amazing waves, all the way through to the stalwarts of our sport going on their very first surf trip to Indo like surf stoked groms. And to keep it interesting we profile South Coast underground ripper, Dane Klusener, and follow our World Tour campaigner, Jared Houston, to the South Pacific island’s of Tahiti for his first attempt at the End of the Road. Enjoy. ED ~ Ian Kruger
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AVAILABLE NOVEMBER 2013 COUNTRYWIDE FRESSH TOAST DISTRIBUTION, FOR DEALER ENQUIRIES CONTACT russshaw@telkomsa.net
If my balls were big enough, I could have done one of these every time I came out of a barrel at this right. There really is only so much ones' body can take, but even after deciding to rather zoom off the back after exiting yet ANOTHER pit like the one on the next page, I found myself going into the flats anyway - in the plank position.
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ALL IMAGES BY CHRIS GURNEY
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This break is probably in my top 5 worldwide - Barrels like this were pretty commonplace although this one did something special. I reckon I'm about 1/3 of the way through it in the last frame, by the time I came out I was facing the beach.
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A lot has happened in my personal life this year, from losing my major sponsor in March to finding a place on the best and most progressive bodyboard team in the world in May. From uprooting my life to another country for the woman of my dreams to becoming a father, all this is related to my job - which I'm doing in this photo. Packed on a boat with my peers heading out to yet another perfect reef-break to fill the pages of this magazine - So grateful for what life and my career in Bodyboarding has given me thus far! SIXTY40.CO.ZA
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Tahurai Henry told me a week before that this right was the best wave on the island (yes the island includes chopes). He mentioned it was fast, heavy and sucky and that it had the biggest air-bowl you could imagine. I thought Tahurai must be crazy after Pierre got hurt, but what else is one to do when presented with something like this?
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Tapuna has gotta be the world funnest wave and it rivals Fronton and the other giants as one of the most hi-fi as well. The locals are pretty much the most geniune people I've ever met and all my experiences in and out of the water in Tahiti were absolutely top notch. The hardest part about surfing Tapuna is being patient in the barrel, LOOK AT THE RAMP! Get me outta there! Huge thanks to Pride Bodyboards and Niko Richard and his whole family for making the trip as great as it was!
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All images Jarret Johnson
WEST COAST / 09-07-2012 6 degrees, woke up in the deserted desert, 300km’s away from the closest town. Campfire tea and orange for breakfast. I didn’t know the vibe so I just stayed quiet and watched. “What’s this place?” “No ways am I paddling out!” Spots checked: Devils Horn - Psycho, 8-10ft, clean Mont – 6-8ft beachie, campsite. Suit-ups – 6-8ft, it’s like Supers in NSW but a right Blue Mayo – 6-8ft maybe 10ft, blackrock look-a-like left Desert beachies – 6-8ft-10ft BIG! Beachies SO MUCH POTENTIAL!
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Didn’t end up surfing – ate campfire noodles and assorted fruit. Talked shit and watched an epic sunset. Animals: Desert cat, Spring bok’s, Snakes, Eagles, Seals, Sea birds (1000’s), Falmingo’s Dinner: Braai - Butternut (cooked on the fire). Bangers on a bun (boerewors). Peanut butter, chocolate and banana on a sambo, toasted!
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MOND –Afrikaans for ‘mouth’ / 10/07/2013 4-6ft, howling offshore. PUMPING! Mexico looka-like. All waves surfable, all waves pumping! Water freezing – 8 degrees. Animals: Meerkat’s, wild cats, Ostrich, seals, bateared fox (rare!) Waves checked: Mond, suit-ups, blue mayo, desert beachies, ape-shits. New friends: Cobus, Spex (Sacha Specker). Another epic day of waves and good times!
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WEST COAST DESERT / 11/07/2013 Smaller swell – 3-4ft offshore pumping. Scored solo Mond – Pik filmed. Helicopter landed in our campsite. Andy woke me up – MEGA cat outside our tent! Blue Mayo – 2-3ft heavy shallow left. Blue water. Surfed with Art of Flight crew and John-John Florence family. FOUND A DIAMOND! LESSON LEARNT: Always take when offered something on the West Coast. Saw 2 shooting stars. Another pumping arvo surf! Spex shooting water. Cobus shooting land. Heli in the air, called JohnJohn Florence off a wave.
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THE DUCKDIVE: (8 degree water). Sweet. Sore head. Brain freeze. Pass out/ get out. Second random encounter – Frank Solomon staying with the Saffas in Hawaii. THE WISE WORDS OF COBUS: Spen: “What’s the waves doing tomorrow Cobus?” Cobus: “Tomorrow is tomorrow brah, we will just wake up and see” Polished two bottles of Old Brown Sherry.
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West Coast Wrap-Up / 12/07/2013 Morning surf check: Mond – 6-8ft offshore (hard paddle). Suitups – 4ft (high tide). PUMPING! Hours surfed: PIK 11 “number of surfs” 7. RUAN 10 “number of surfs” 7. ANDY 7 “number of surfs” 5. SPEN 11 “number of surfs” 6 KM’s driven – 1003. Total hours away – 102 hours . Litres of water consumed – 35 litres between the 4. Quote of the trip: “WHAT IS THIS PLACE???” - Spencer Frost John-John Florence // Art Of Flight setup:1 X Helicopter. 2 X Jetski’s. 4 X 4x4. 6 X red cameras (one in housing). 1 X his mum (milf) Lessons learnt: How to braai up a storm on a fire. How to cut fire wood like a boss. Stuff to remember next time: Always bring a pillow camping. Bring more canned food.Bring more Jerkey. ∞
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Words by Quintin van Jaarsveld Images by Justin Klusener
Dane Klusener crowned South African champion after decade of dedication.
‘I’VE FINALLY DONE IT’
Southern KwaZulu-Natal standout Dane Klusener finally won the big one when he clinched the men’s title at the 27th annual South African Bodyboarding Championships in Mossel Bay in September.
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just 22, Klusener is already a veteran in the sport, having competed in six previous national championships. He’s achieved just about everything he had set out to do when he first took up bodyboarding at the age of 12 - except win a South African title.
“IT FEELS AWESOME TO GET THE WIN” He realised his 10-year dream at the consistent Western Cape break as he threw caution to the wind and won the men’s final in style. Klusener busted a big invert that earned him a perfect 10 on one of three judges’ scorecards and a massive backflip to sew up his first South African title. “It feels awesome to get the win,” said Klusener. “Getting knocked out over the years, you start to doubt yourself, but my mates pushed me and supported me and to eventually do it is just such a relief and so gratifying to know that I’ve finally done it.
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AYS INE THE MP”
“It was always a goal of mine to become the SA champ. When I started out it was just an awesome sport and I slowly got into competition. The more competitive I got, the more I realised I wanted to be the best and now I’m finally at the top of the mountain.” Having made the final once before only to fall agonisingly short, Klusener adopted an all or nothing approach and it paid rich dividends. “In the final I thought I needed to do something special - I didn’t want to play it safe. I put everything on the line to get maximum scores so that when it was over I knew I went 100 percent and didn’t hold anything back.” As an individual as well as a team competition, Klusener - as vice-chairman - felt he had a major responsibility towards the team. “My main objective was to do Southern KwaZulu-Natal proud. On the local circuit, there’s not a lot of pressure but when you’re competing on the national circuit you’re representing your team. I was also the only men’s division rider in our team, so I felt there was a lot of pressure on me to perform and I didn’t want to let the team down.”
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Klusener’s win propelled Southern KwaZuluNatal to third place behind runners-up Western Province and champions Central KwaZuluNatal, who will be in possession of the coveted Fishman Trophy for the next year. This year’s Southern KwaZulu-Natal vintage was an exuberant group and although they conceded some experience to the other title contenders, Klusener felt the energy and hunger of the younger riders - who received some ‘unique’ haircuts as part of their initiation - galvanised the team. “I couldn’t have asked for a better group of guys. We have quite a young team full of fresh faces but when the competition started everything just gelled perfectly.” Four other Southern KwaZulu-Natal riders made their respective finals to boost the team’s tally. Storm Prestwich, who in 2011 became the first ever rider to win both the pro and junior national titles, placed third in the pro final, Meagan Nell finished third in the ladies’ final, Terence Pieters placed fourth in the dropknee final and Martin Grobler finished fourth in the boys’ final. ∞
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WHERE: MEDITERRANEAN FRANCE BY: DEMEAUTIS CEDRIC The Mediterranean for many people is just a summer tourist destination... except for the local bodyboarders, they know how to benefit from this playground. ~ Demeautis
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WHERE: LLANDS BY: SIMON HEALE WHO: UFO
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WHERE: SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA BY: MITCH COSLOVICH WHO: UFO
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WHERE: SOUTH COAST OF AUSTRALIA BY: MITCH COSLOVICH WHO: UFO
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WHERE: ITACOATIARA BY: SPEX WHO: MICHAEL OSTLER (RATT)
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WHERE: SYDNEY SLAB BY: JORDAN BARTA WHO: MAX DODSHON
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WHERE: OUTER POOL BY: SIMON HEALE WHO: MATT WEBSTER The weekend of the Southern Cape Champs and if I remember correctly it was the evening before the contest started. Knowing SA Champs was being held at outer pool I suppose I was just throwing myself into any wave and trying to make the most of it. This death floater was the result. ~ Matt
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WHERE: VENDﾃ右, FRANCE BY: MIKE NEE WHO: UFO
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WHERE: COPIE, FRANCE BY: MIKE NEE
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WHERE: ITACOATIARA BY: SPEX WHO: KARLA COSTA TAYLOR
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WHERE: ITACOATIARA BY: SPEX WHO: KALANI LATANZI
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WHERE: PORT ALFRED BY: COBUS BOSMAN WHO: JOSH GARNER
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WHERE: PORTUGAL BY: JOﾃグ PEDRO ROCHA WHO: UFO
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WHERE: PORTUGAL BY: JOﾃグ PEDRO ROCHA WHO: UFO
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WHERE: ITACOATIARA BY: SPEX WHO: JEFF HUBBARD I really had so much fun last year staying in Brazil. I stayed in an epic house with my good saffa friends Jerry, Ian and Michael. We had such good vibes and so much fun, surfing, hiking, swimming, eating acai and hanging out! I ended up in the final and really enjoyed all the positive support the boys provided me through the whole event!! ~ Jeff
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WHERE: ARICA BY: SPEX WHO: JACOB ROMERO This was the first heat and first wave of the day during the last day of competition in Arica Chile. It was in my quarterfinal heat against Winny. The night before Jeff Hubb texted me saying he just hit the biggest air reverse for the Hawaiians. We believe. I was the last Hawaiian left in the comp. I didn't do an air reverse, but I did boost the biggest air I've ever done in my life so far for sure. Good times. ~ Jacob
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WHERE: LANDS BY: SETH PHITIDES WHO: JASON FOWLER Llandudno since last season has been my favourite spot to surf, constantly cranking when we have those crazy South Easters! I always enjoy those icy pits‌ especially this session in particular, filled with barrels, ramps and good mates! ~Jason
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WHERE: PHILLIPINES BY: JACO LOUBSER WHO: MATT LACKEY
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WHERE: PADANG PADANG BY: SETH PHITIDES WHO: AUSSIE UFO
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WHERE: LANDS BY: SETH PHITIDES WHO: JARED BARBE
Another after work session paying off. Heavy, shallow wedges in the Gat with Seth in the perfect position. ~ Jared
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WHERE: THERMOS BY: ROBIN TAYLOR WHO: MIGUEL INOCENTES We arrived with 20 minutes left of winter light and in the short time I was out, I got super owned by a set and lost a flipper. We still somehow managed to set up perfectly and got the only shot of the session. Never the less I was lucky enough to find the fin on the rocks. ~ Robin
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WHERE: THERMOS BY: ALEXANDER KIBBLE WHO: UFO
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WHERE: THE HOEK BY: DANIEL GREBE WHO: WESLEY POTTS The charts showed some serious swell this day and we didn't think it would be rideable. Shanen Jellliman, Wes Kew and myself met in the car park and decided we would take a walk down, just to check it out. We were greeted by 8-10ft perfect rollers with no one else around except Daniel Grebe and Ross Nortier on the rocks ready to shoot. After a team psyche up we decided to give it a paddle. What followed were some of the heaviest beatings, meatiest barrels and biggest airs I have ever been fortunate enough to experience out there. And to top it off it was Wes's first time bodyboarding - muchos respect for facing it Wes. ~ Wesley
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WHERE: WESKUS BY: ALAN HORTON WHO: CONOR EASTMENT Crowded is a word I would use to describe this session. Try putting 1015 dudes in the tight take-off zone, add some thick West Coast foam to the equation while you're paddling into these lumps in the ocean and the result is seen in this frozen moment. A late, deep and scoopy ride. ~ Conor
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WHERE: LACERATIONS BY: SETH PHITIDES WHO: MARCUS PHITIDES
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WHERE: WESKUS BY: COBUS BOSMAN WHO: HENK ESTERHUIZEN
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WHERE: WESKUS BY: COBUS BOSMAN WHO: HENK ESTERHUIZEN
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WHERE: VENDﾃ右, FRANCE BY: MIKE NEE WHO: GHISLAIN VAGINAY
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WHERE: WESKUS BY: COBUS BOSMAN
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WHERE: PORT ALFRED BY: COBUS BOSMAN WHO: JOSH GARNER
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WHERE: ITACOATIARA BY: SPEX
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WHERE: ITACOATIARA BY: IAIN CAMPBELL WHO: SPEX
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WHERE: ARICA BY: SPEX WHO: BEN PLAYER
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WHERE: LANDS BY: SIMON HEALE WHO: BENJY OLIVER That day was actually crosshore and I guess I was just lucky to find one of the ramps. ~ Benjy
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WHERE: CHILE BY: SPEX
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WHERE: LUCIEN BEACH BY: MICHAEL ANSERMINO WHO: TERENCE PIETERS SKZN team training. ~ Michael
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WHERE: ARICA BY: SPEX WHO: UFO
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WHERE: WESKUS BY: COBUS BOSMAN WHO: ANDRE BOTHA This air was boosted at our favourite beachbreak on the same morning we had the Devils Horn session, there was some good waves on offer if you picked the right ones out. Dre was having a proper dig, getting some really good pits on the rights. But when this left came his way I knew there was no way he wont take to the sky, reminds me of a cover he got way back at Pipe. ~ Cobus
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WHERE: CANARIES BY: JESUS DE LEON WHO: SPEX
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WHERE: BETHANY BEACH, EAST COAST, USA BY: STEPHEN HETRICK WHO: PAT CRONSHAW This wave is my home. When it's on theres no place in the world I'd rather be. ~ Pat
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WHERE: OUTER POOL BY: MARCEL HABETS WHO: TRISTAN ROBERTS I got lucky enough to get hold of this nug of a ramp in my Pro Semi Final at SA Champs. ~Tristan
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WHERE: CLOUD 9 BY: JOSH TABONE WHO: JACO LOUBSER
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WHERE: SUPERTUBOS BY: ZECA NETO WHO: UFO
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WHERE: LUCIEN BEACH BY: MICHAEL ANSERMINO WHO: DANE KLUSENER Dane Klusener hanging around and upside down at his favourite local, Lucien. ~ Michael
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WHERE: BAGGIES BEACH BY: CHRIS CLARKE WHO: DENHAM DUNNETT They say chocolate isn't healthy for breakfast but...I think even Denham Dunnett's doctor would approve of a chocolate barrel like this to start off the day ~ Chris
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SUMATRA 9 TO 19 JULY + BALI 20 & 21 JULY 2013 ‘It’s not often that the older gents of our sport put in the added effort of taking a genuine surf trip overseas, but as per usual, Marcel Habets, Len Bradford and their crew did exactly that. These 2 gents in particular are as surf stoked as any two groms you could ever hope to meet and I hope that when I am their age I will be just as excited about my next bodyboarding trip to Indo.’
WE
left Saturday 6 July and arrived at Jakarta in Java the evening of 8 July, not the best hotel in the world, but a bargain for the price to eventually get an air conditioned room and a shower, we flew the long way via Qatar – 8 hours there with a healthy stop over and 8 hours to Jakarta. Cape Town was cold when we left, Doha was 37 degrees 06H30 in the morning, Jakarta was a nice 26 degrees but a bit humid when we arrived in the evening.
Words and images by Marcel Habets Foreword by Ian Kruger THE CREW: Len Bradford, James Herbert, Francois Bester, Marcel Habets
We were keen to get to Krui the next morning (pronounced as Kroei – the u becomes a “oe” as we would pronounce it in Afrikaans), we took an early flight to Bandar Lampung. Having read a bit about Sumatra beforehand we were surprised to find Hindu statues where Indonesia is said to be 95% Islam, I had thought only Bali had Hindu temples. SIXTY40.CO.ZA
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We were in for a 4-5 hour drive that took 7 hours in the end. Think of the worst tar roads in South Africa and you will get an idea of what it looks like. The first part was easy going, lots of scooters on the road. When we hit the mountain pass it went a lot slower, pot holes are filled in with tar, but not level with the rest of the asphalt, forming speed humps. No way’s are you going faster than 40 Km/h, I think we hit 60 along one stretch – at that time Len was dead quiet, James was holding on for dear life and Francois had his legs locked up behind the driver. I have been to a few rough places during business trips, but this one ranks at the top with worst them. To top it off, we were hit by a thunderstorm 100km from Krui – trucks do not get out of your way, you must make way. The boys in the back seat had been praying hard as we arrived safe at sunset. SIXTY40 BODYBOARDING MAGAZINE // ISSUE 20
DAY1
The next day was off to look for surf, Zane (our ”hotel” owner) had no diesel in his modified Landcruiser, Len ended up giving him a hand with filling up the vehicle with homemade bio diesel that cost him 59c/l to make – stinks like a fish and chips shop. We ended up surfing Mandiri Beach break, no good photos were taken as Francois was not used to shooting with a Nikon D3S and a 600mm prime lens, I think he shot 400 shots of which we kept 4. He did get a lot better later on in the trip. I took my time paddling out, at that stage Len and James had already had a few just off the crowded main peak. I decided to paddle over and hassle the surfers, the first one I hooked turned out to be a perfect barrel, the boys paddling back hooted, what a start to a perfect trip. Half an hour later our hands looked like we had been sitting in a warm bath for 3 hours – all shriveled up. After paddling over to Len and James and not getting any good waves I paddled back to the crowd, just to be lucky again and hook the set of the day, this one barreled and kept on barreling until it spat me out, great surf, we were all stuffed after 3 hours. Zane drove us to Way Jumbo (Sumatra Pipe), but it was flat. The locals had just caught a 30Kg sail fish, James posed for a picture, later they loaded this huge fish on the back of a scooter and took it to the market. The fish is worth a weeks wages for a family and what a catch on a hand line.
DAY2
Zane had us going early on day 2, we were on our way to Honey Smacks, on the way there we had a look at the Piesang / Banana Island, but the transport there looked suspect – the wind direction was wrong so we had a good excuse not to the take the trip. We ended up surfing small Honey Smacks, James and Len got the cookers, I kept on paddling myself out of position. Afterwards Zane showed us Jimmy’s Left and Right – which is a few more km’s north, it looks like it could be very good when it's on. We ended up at Jennies right and treating ourselves to banana pancakes.
DAY3
Day 3 was a slow day, Francois had damaged his knee ligament surfing Melkbos just before we left and was having a hard time squatting in the squat pots, him and James being typical Afrikaans engineers, never standing back for a challenge devised a sit toilet (it worked the whole trip), I think Zane has left it as such and is charging more for that room. The boys surfed The Peak in the evening and we were treated to a golden sunset (the only one on the trip).
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Krui Key Hole
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The Peak - getting slotted
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Len, Ryan and James - golden Sumatra Sunset
DAY4
We had good surf at The Peak during the day; there were no takers at Leftovers or Seb’s Hole, further up the point. James and Len took their first tour to the town market and what an experience it was. They sell from funny looking strawberries to cow heads. The locals are really friendy, greeting "hello mister" and asking to pose with them for photos. A stroll on the most beautifull beaches made up for the times the tide was not right or when Francois and I had to take our pensioners afternoon nap.
DAY5
We had North West winds on day 5, the advantage of staying with a local is that he knows where to go to on which wind and we ended up surfing an offshore secret spot. A great right-hander reef in 29 degree water, only four of us out. What more can you ask for?
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Krui the Peak kooking
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Krui fisher
Krui locals afternoon bike ride SIXTY40 BODYBOARDING MAGAZINE // ISSUE 20
Mandiri Beach Marcel lining up
rman
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Honey Smacks - Aussie Scott Lachlan Duncan
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DAY6
The swell was up and we decided to tackle Way Jambo (Sumatra Pipe) which means big river mouth. Zane took us out as far south as one can paddle out, most of us got sucked out via the keyhole, but some paid the reef price. This is not a small wave, the pictures we have on record do not do it justice. Len got smashed on the coral reef, lucky he had his 2mm shortjohn on as protection, that put him in his place for the rest of the trip; it was also the last time James paddled out at Way Jambo. I hooked a good one and ended straightening out when it closed out. Zane got the wave before me and I could not understand why he had gone straight out. Once I pulled through, the picture became clear. There in front of me was an 8� set draining the reef, it thumped the reef, when it hit me I was dragged across the reef in knee-deep water. I jumped it and got sucked out further, just to be 10 meters on the inside of the impact zone when the next 8� set hit the reef. I got dragged across the reef and was lucky as at this stage it went flat again and I decided to join the surfers sitting at proper Way Jumbo. The wave was kooking, the boys were getting barreled off their pips. I got my fair share of them, but I was taking it easy. That evening the Aussie crew (ex Saffers) had stayed there the whole day and they were not looking good, every one had a nice Way Jambo reef tattoo. They say it got 10" cooking barrels with rides where the surfers could not touch the roof of the barrel standing straight up.
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DAY7
The swell had dropped off and we surfed Mandiri beach break – nice waves, but a let down after the previous day. This is the first day we got ourselves motorcycles. It has been 30 year since some of us had ridden a bike, some jumped when it was clear it was an auto shift, so others were stuck with a manual shift. Len missed the Mandiri turnoff and halfway to Way Jumbo turned around and missed the turnoff again and drove all the way back to Krui, I reckon it was the auto shift causing the confusion on his bike. I decided to go surf, typical Top Gear style. James and Francois decided to go look for Len and ended up meeting up with him halfway back to Mandiri. Len did get some good waves after the missing gps ordeal. The boys surfed the Town left again just before sunset, there was a Spanish crew out that were getting barreled off their nuts on 3” waves. Len said it looked like small Skeleton Coast, the barrel kept on going for ever.
DAY8
We decided to go to Way Jambo, our time was getting short and it was the second last day of swell. We packed the three motorbikes and set off on the 40km journey. Some of us even got the bikes up to 90Km/h, but when my bike started drifting I decided surfing was more important than ending up in hospital. We arrived to find no one in the water and perfect glassy 4” waves peeling off the point. We could not believe our luck, James decided to shoot while Len and I paddled out, we got cooking surf for ½ hour until the onshore came up, we ended up surfing it by ourselves for 2 hours. I missed some of the bigger sets and will always think of what could have been, Len got more than a few cookers.
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Honey Smacks - Saffer Greg Rose-Innes
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Honey Smacks Local fisherman
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DAY9
The last surfing day, we left early the morning, the swell charts indicated Honey Smacks was going to cook, and did it cook, it was all time! I was in a rush to get there, and drove like only a Strand local can drive, I had a nagging feeling that the wind was going to come up at some stage. Honey Smack is 40km north of Krui, across a bad mountain pass. At one stage I thought if the truck behind me is going to have a brake failure then I am finished. I was sandwiched between two trucks going down a 30 degree slope on a wet mountain pass with potholes galore on a scooter. Camera bag on my back, tripod and surf gear strapped to the bike. The pass is so steep that a 125cc motorcycle will not drive up it in 2nd gear, it must be in 1st revving near the red line. One takes the Jennies turnoff to get to Honey Smacks, the waves were going off, but there was no one out at Jennies. As I came around the corner I realized today was going to be special – there were waves everywhere, on the way to Honey Smacks a group of surfers were getting barreled off their pips. As I pulled in to Honey Smacks a body boarder got slotted on a decent wave. At this stage I decided to leave the surfing gear and get some shots for the magazine. The boys arrived ½ hour later, we were all awe struck at the size and power of the wave. None of us surfed it, but at least we have the shots to prove we were there. The two Saffer brothers Tom and Greg Rose-Innis got the lion's share and made us proud. Well done boys and there are photos to prove it.
DAY10
This day was spent driving back to Bandar Lampung, a lot better than day one, it could be that we were used to the driving by then or perhaps our driver did take it easier. We stopped at the most beautifull waterfall and spent a relaxing ½ hour there. Bandar Lampung was busy, the Pizza Hut Pizza did the same to me as the Pizza Hut in Shanghai in December last year – at least the system got a good flushing of the rice and hot chillies we had the past 10 days.
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Clockwise from top left: Len, Tom & Greg.. Tom Rose-Innes with an18 Way Jambo scar. Krui the Peak. Jimmy's right coconut.
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DAY11
Len and myself spent time with Nick Mesritz on Bali for the weekend. This was Len's first time out at Uluwatu, pity it was small but we still had a lot of fun. Len had a few 3" to 4" peaks and loved it. We showed Len Padang Padang and Bingin. If one looks closely you can see a bodyboarder slotted at Padang. We ended up watching the Springboks play the Wallabies that afternoon – Nick is a rugby fanatic and still plays club rugby.
DAY12
Nick took us through his factory, very nice setup in Surabaya. They manufacture 90% of the world’s top bodyboards, including the Stealth, Reef, NMD, Toys, Hubb and Pride range of boards. Nick and Dan Seviss showed us their production line and explained to us the whole process of shaping bodyboards. It was a great experience to rub shoulders with the two best shapers in the world. That evening we flew back back to a cold Cape Town via Jakarta, Doha and Johannesburg. What a trip it was and will never be forgotten.
Clockwise from top left: Echo Beach temple. Padang Padang unknown slotted. Uluwatu. Checking boards.
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