Elevation Summer 2014 by Ski Club of Great Britain

From the makers of Ski+board | June 2014

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WireD For War

Follow in soldiers’ footsteps on a WWI via ferrata tour

Play on

Hike Shakespeare’s Way on the Bard’s 450th birthday

pedal power

Cycling the Alps’ newest race on a diet of cheese and wine

missing the snow? Discover the lost world of the Andes

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TRAVEL IT’S ALL A MATTER OF PERSPECTIVE...

ou’ve done the beach holidays, the city breaks, longdistance hauls and short hops across to the Continent. So how about seeing the world from a different point of view?

See the great sights of the world from an entirely new perspective – watching the Adriatic lap against the ancient walls of Dubrovnik from your yacht, diving straight off the back of your boat into shoals of tropical fish, or spotting mysterious tombs carved into the rock face of the Turkish coast at Bodrum. Explore the world above and below water and visit hidden caves, isolated traditional villages and historical sites well off the beaten path. Beginner sailors will be in perfect company on a flotilla holiday. Dip your toes into the calm waters of the Caribbean and Mediterranean, make new sailing friends and build up your confidence and yachting know-how in the company of our experienced lead crew. It’s fun for all the family, especially on our special Family Flotillas when we have an extra Activity Coordinator to keep the kids occupied so Mum and Dad can have a break. The evenings are a time to let your hair down and share stories with your fellow flotilla companions – share tips, pictures and drinks over great local food and make friends for life with people you may never have met otherwise. Sailing means never having to wake up in the same place twice – unless you’ve found the perfect undisturbed beach or the best place to watch the sunrise. Watch the stars come out in a sky free of electric light, laze on a beach with only the surf for background noise, or step out on deck and feel the wind on your skin. Wherever you want to go, Sunsail is ready to take you there.

GETTING INTO SAILING Sailing is open to all, and getting the right qualifications to take one of our yachts out on the open sea couldn’t be easier. In some of our locations an RYA Day Skipper certificate is required; however we also offer many taster and refresher courses for those who’d like to start learning or want to brush up on their skills. Take RYA-accredited courses in the UK, Mediterranean, Caribbean, Australia and Thailand, or prove your skills with a formal ICC qualification that will prove you have what it takes.

RUN TO THE SUN... Flotilla holidays from £599pp* Learn to sail courses from £499pp** Find out more at SUNSAIL.CO.UK Book online or call 0845 322 8079 *Based on 7 days, 4 sharing, inc Gatwick flights **UK Sailing courses based in Port Solent

DISCOVER THE WORLD. DIFFERENTLY.

From the makers of Ski+Board | June 2014

Above: Location: Chamonix, France Photo: John Norris

Contents 06

28 The French mountain bike race with a culinary twist

Exposure

News

Blown away...

On a Swiss roll

Mountain magic: Award winning photographer John Norris captures the arrival of summer

The latest reports from across the Alps and hiking news from the UK

Spectacular Scottish mountain biking in the Cairngorms proves a blast

Cycling the Bernese Oberland â&#x20AC;&#x201D; with your luggage carried for you

Editor’s note

Bad weather often makes for the most dramatic photographs. And our photo editor, John Norris proves this with the cover shot, ‘Racing the Storm’. In it, the two climbers, Helen Russell and Matt Spenceley hurry to complete the Arête des Perrons via ferrata route in Switzerland before a summer thunderstorm engulfs the peaks. Indeed, the picture won the Royal Photographic Society (RPS) monthly competition, over 6,000 photographers took part. On hearing the news, Norris said: “I feel honoured that such a globally respected organisation as the RPS has recognised my photography in this way.” Via ferrata, Latin for ‘Iron Way’, harks back to the First World War, when Italian soldiers used to carry munitions and supplies to their allies when fighting the Austrian forces. Turn to page 18, where Ben Rowley experiences the now popular sport — on the centenary of the start of the war. It’s also the 450th anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth. On page 22, Paul Bloomfield hikes along Shakespeare’s Way from Stratford to Oxford — immersing himself in the British countryside. Plus, there’s mountain biking, cycle touring and paragliding inside. And if you’ve not had enough snow, then flick through to page 36 where Arnie Wilson (the former editor of Ski+board) shares some of his South American skiing secrets. Shakespeare once wrote (Sonnet 65): ‘O! how shall summer’s honey breath hold out…’ Sadly, summer won’t last, but I know we’ll all be making the most of it while it does.

Editor Rosie Barcroft Editor at Large Colin Nicholson Art Director Belle Stevens Contributors Arnie Wilson, Ben Rowley, Gabriella Le Breton, Paul Bloomfield, Rob Crabtree, Vicky Norman Front cover shot John Norris media sales Publicom agencypublicom.com 020 3177 1167 Published Ski Club of Great Britain London SW19 5SB skiclub.co.uk 020 8410 2000 Distribution Jellyfish Print Solutions 01489 897373

18 Via ferrata in the Italian Dolomites

22 Hiking Shakespeare’s Way

36 Found — the lost world of the Andes

Canyoning

Squash Falconer

Products

Dates for your diary

Be carried along by this most watery way to find your route down a mountain

Flying by the seat of her pants — the peculiar adventures of a very British mountaineer

All the essential equipment and apparel for outdoor activities this summer

Book your seats for some of the top sporting and social events of the season

title Sun-lit Paragliding RIDER Sean Potts location Flying over the VallĂŠe Blanche, Chamonix Valley, France Photographer John Norris

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title Night Walker HIKER John Vaitkus Location Tour du Mont Blanc, Chamonix Valley, France Photographer John Norris

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title Autumn Runner Location Chamonix, France Photographer John Norris

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Bregenzerwald unwrapped

There’s a lot more to this “typical Alpine region” in Austria’s Vorarlberg than meets the eye

Mountains, pastures, forests and 22 quaint little villages — a “typical alpine region” you might think at first sight. But first-time visitors to the Bregenzerwald — in the most westerly part of Austria, close to Lake Constance, and a neighbour of Germany, Switzerland and Liechtenstein — will be surprised at what this laid-back valley has to offer. It is, in fact, a veritable cornucopia of novel ideas, aesthetic and functional design and a striking blend of traditional and contemporary architecture, innovative craftsmanship and fine dining with a string of cultural events. Building culture and craftsmanship in the Bregenzerwald are increasingly attracting attention well beyond the province’s borders — take the Werkraum Haus, for example, opened last July in Andelsbuch. The Swiss architect, Peter Zumthor is internationally renowned, with close ties to craftsmanship. Zumthor’s design for the Werkraum Haus is founded on two basic ideas: on one hand, the building serves as a meeting place. But it’s also a major showcase for the culture of craftsmanship in the Bregenzerwald. There’s no distinction between the inside and the outside — the landscape flows through the building. The Werkraum Haus also accommodates a restaurant and a shop. The chefs in the multi-award winning restaurants and inns use their own creative interpretations to enhance regional products. And the Bregenzerwald locals are true masters in the art of cheese production — especially the local Alpine variety. There’s even a KäseStrasse Bregenzerwald: an informal and notional “cheese road” with a multitude of informative and pleasurable locations and events, dedicated to cheese culture. But just what is Alpine agriculture anyway? And where does the wood that architects and craftsmen use to such great effect come from? Bregenzerwald has many hiking paths that tell stories about the life and culture of the region, which make it special. Some of the paths even have “artistic additions”. The “admission ticket” for all Alpine experiences is the Bregenzerwald Guest-Card (May until October), provided free for all visitors who stay three or more nights in the province.

How to get there: By plane: Zurich (Switzerland), Friedrichshafen, Memmingen/Munich-West or Munich (all Germany).

Bregenzerwald Tourismus Impulszentrum 1135 6863 Egg, Austria T +43 (0)5512 2365

info@bregenzerwald.at www.bregenzerwald.at/en

You Say… More on helmets…

Don’t hang up your poles just yet!

Dear Ski+board, With reference to David Adams’ letter about ski instructors not wearing helmets in Flaine in the online issue, I was in Vail earlier this year, where it’s compulsory for instructors to wear helmets. Perhaps other resorts should do the same? Tim Brodman via email

Dear Ski+board, When summer comes, everyone seems to forget you can still go skiing! La Grand Motte glacier in France and the Stubai Glacier in Austria are just two of the places you can go. Plus, there’s the southern hemisphere. And the snow domes! Sara Gillot via email

Twitter

12 Skipedia.co.uk @skipedia • May 7 26 snippets from the first LISTEX Summer Session http://ow.ly/wzURs

A Luxury Travel Blog @luxury_travel • May 7 10 must-see natural wonders of Latin America — bit.ly/1qc7KOU

Redbull @redbull • April 17 The MTB trailer you’ve been waiting for: @BrandonSemenuk’s #RadCompany http://win.gs/RadCompany

Your reviews of top leader resorts Obergurgl For families who object to half-term skiing

Flaine Freshtracks ski touring

Anthony Rich Visited: April 2014 At 2000m Obergurgl is high enough to be reasonably snow sure at the start of the Easter school holidays. It can get slushy near the town but the higher slopes are usually okay, if at times a little icy first thing. It is a traditional, charming, working Austrian village. Situated at the end of the valley it is relatively car free and quiet: a great place for beginners and families. We found lift queues are rare, except at ski school launching time. Whilst there is excellent off piste and ski mountaineering there are limited numbers of black runs but a wide range of enjoyable blues and reds suitable for beginners and intermediates of all levels. The lift system is well connected between the three main ski areas, allowing for variety in a day’s skiing. For the adventurous, the glacier at Sölden is a bus journey back down the valley.

Alistair Lipp Visited: April 2014 This was our first ski touring trip. Diane Moreau was our instructor and was just right for me, patient, good explanations and specific for my needs. We had beautiful blue skies and warm weather. Plenty of spring snow. Thoroughly enjoyed our ski touring day trips. Spectacular views of the Mont Blanc range. Thanks to our great ski leader, Helen Gloster, and to Hattie and Mark our chalet hosts.

Slopes: Accommodation: Eating: Apres: Value for money:

Overall rating:

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Ski+board, The White House, 57-63 Church Road, Wimbledon Village, London SW19 5SB Or simply email: rosie.barcroft@skiclub.co.uk

Your Season

Sunlight over a glacier • Photo: Ryan Davison Crisp

Bride and groom in Tignes Photo: William Bird

My car needs digging out Photo: Stephen Webster

Team Photo Photo: Julian Elliot

Ski Club off-piste group • Photo: Sally Newton

Schlossalmbahn II, Gastein • Photo: Peter Daykin

Our tracks • Photo: Frances Breslin

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Sarah Baldwin in the magic forest • Photo: Paul Baldwin

Alexandra Beuchert skiing the Fornet boulder field • Photo: Simon Perry

Lunch club • Photo: Mike Crompton

News British ski instructor Awaits verdict Simon Butler, the British ski instructor charged with teaching skiing without proper qualifications, will hear next month whether he has been found guilty.

At Bonneville court of first instance last month, the state prosecutor called for a year’s imprisonment for Butler (with eight months suspended). He also called for fines ranging from €10,000 to €1,000 for Butler and six instructors he employs, who were charged alongside him, one of whom was put forward for a three-month suspended sentence for resisting arrest. Butler, 51, has run instructional skiing holidays in the French resort of Megève since 1982. The case centres on whether the qualifications of the instructors he employs are equivalent to the minimum required for French instructors. The argument has been portrayed in the Press as a battle between the British and the French, but the reality is more complex. Butler is backed by JeanYves Lapeyrère, who represents several French outdoor sports employers

and would like to see the rules on qualifications relaxed, not just for ski instruction, but also for several summer sports such as windsurfing. And some British ski instructors who have achieved the highest BASI (British Association of Snowsport Instructors) qualification — Alpine Ski Level 4 ISTD — have said that they would see their pay plunge if less qualified instructors were allowed to practice. The current system is that only instructors who have reached BASI Alpine Ski Level 4 ISTD and have passed the Euro Speed Test are qualified to teach in France. However, this is in question because a significant number of French instructors have not met the criterion of this exacting race, which is that they complete a giant slalom within 18 per cent of the time it would take the reigning world champion, or 24 per cent for women. They are nonetheless allowed to practise because they have either claimed ‘grandfather’ rights, by virtue of being instructors before the Eurotest was introduced in France in 2004 (as have some British instructors), or are operating as stagières – trainees.

Simon Butler outside court in April

Indeed Philippe Planes, Butler’s lawyer, finished his impassioned defence by plonking on the three judges’ desk several huge dossiers which he said outlined no less than 17 different criteria by which ski instructors can practice in France. On June 16 we will find out if he has been successful.

Ski Club Leader stopped in France

Yours for 82 pence

A Ski Club Leader was stopped on the piste in Val d’Isère, France, on April 4 and questioned by gendarmes, the military force charged with police duties, in relation to Art.L.212-1 of the French Code du Sport. Under this article, it is a legal requirement to have the relevant and appropriate qualification(s) to instruct, lead or guide skiing (groups) if remuneration is received. All Ski Club Leaders are nonremunerated volunteers. Since then, the Leader has been requested by the local authorities to attend a preliminary investigative hearing in Albertville. He will be appearing in the court later this year with the appropriate papers to prove his volunteer status. The Ski Club is fully behind the Leader and has appointed a local solicitor who is well aware of the challenges involved and is currently representing other UK tour operators in relation to the ski-hosting ban in France. The Club will only ever operate its ski-leading programme in the full knowledge that it is both safe and also fully compliant with (local) laws within any of the countries/jurisdictions of its programmes. The Ski Club continues to support the Leader and the Leading services and will provide updates as the case develops.

The once multi-million pound Petzenbahnen ski resort in Austria’s Carinthia region has gone on sale for just €1, or 82p. The resort has 26 kilometres of runs: 12km of blue runs; 11km of red runs and 3km of black runs. There is also a snowboard park, cross country skiing area and a skating rink. For more information: skiclub. co.uk/skiclub/news/latestnews.aspx

Photo: Colin Nicholson

By Colin Nicholson

the Uk’s Newest long-distance walking trail opens

24-hour hiking challenge in the Dolomites launched

The country’s most recent longdistance hiking trail, which has been five years in the making, was opened on May 17. The trail runs through the National Forest, an environmental project in Staffordshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire started in the 1990s to plant 200 square miles of woodland. The 75-mile trail uses public rights of way and permissive paths to take walkers from the National Memorial Arboretum, near Lichfield, to Beacon Hill Country Park, near Loughborough. The path is split into 12 stages with directional leaflets available for each. “It’s suitable for experienced and new walkers and is full of surprises,” said Sophie Churchill, chief executive of the National Forest Company. Catherine Graham-Harrison, the company’s chairwoman, said: “This a coming of age for us. Many years’ work has gone into creating the forest with eight million trees planted and new habitats created.” For more information: nationalforestway.co.uk Hiking Shakespeare’s Way — Pages 22 to 24

The spa and outdoor sports resort Adler Dolomiti, in the South Tyrol region of Italy, has introduced a new walking experience this summer: a 52-kilometre, 24–hour hike on July 11-12 that incorporates almost 3,500 metres of vertical ascents and descents through the mountains of Val Gardena. The hike will be led by experienced local mountain guides showcasing the flora and fauna of the Dolomites, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site recognised for outstanding natural beauty and culture. For more information: adler-dolomiti.com/en +39 0471 775 001

helmet sales go ‘through the roof’ Safety became a hot topic this season, delegates heard at the London International Ski Travel Exchange (LISTEX) conference on May 6. Michael Schumacher’s accident highlighted the importance — but also the limitations — of helmets. National Ski Academy figures show helmet use has tripled though there has been no fall in serious head injuries. Marketing manager of Snow+Rock Inga Taylor said ‘sales went through the roof’. LISTEX concluded: ‘More education over the safe use of snowparks is required, as well as backcountry.’ Dan Fox, managing director of Ski Weekends, said: ‘Seven per cent of our staff went home last season due to injuries in parks.’ For more information: listex.co.uk

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

News Robbie Williams delivers a swinging end to Ischgl’s ski season Robbie Williams brought the Tirolean ski resort of Ischgl to its season’s close with a mountain-top concert at 2,300m. His open-air performance got 25,000 fans singing and dancing with songs from a number of albums and favourites such as Let Me Entertain You and Angels. He joins the Ischgl’s Who’s Who of musicians to have performed

at the legendary opening and closing ceremonies. Other recent acts include Elton John, Kylie Minogue, Deep Purple, The Killers, Mariah Carey and Alicia Keys. The valley opens for the summer season in July with mountain biking, hiking, bouldering (a form of free climbing) and horse riding on offer. For more information: paznaun-ischgl.com

New downhill mountain bike routes for verbier

Guests ‘expect top food and accommodation’

Two new downhill mountain bike pistes have been created in Verbier, Switzerland, adding to the five existing tracks in the resort’s Bikepark — recognising the rise in Enduro (a discipline halfway between cross-country and downhill biking). The routes are between the Fontanets (2,475m) and Ruinettes (2,200m), overlooking the Val de Bagnes. The varied tracks, good maintenance and new concepts add to the experience and further raise Verbier St-Bernard’s standing. For more information: verbierbikepark.ch Mountain biking in La Clusaz…with a twist — Pages 28 to 30

Chalet company Fish & Pips has partnered with The Abinger Cookery School to develop its staff’s culinary skills. Based near Dorking, Surrey, the school will teach aspiring cooks diverse recipes under acclaimed chalet chef Vincent Clist. Holly Chandler (née Fisher, the ‘Fish’ of Fish & Pips) said: “Food is high profile now, and there’s definitely a shortage of good chefs. What better way to hone your skills than on the Abinger cookery course, followed by a ski season in the Alps? If we can help introduce people to a career path then all the better”. For more information: abingercookeryschool.com; 01306 730 470

Valle Nevado in the andes linked with Mountain Collective Pass Valle Nevado is to become one of the newest members of the Mountain Collective Pass this year, joining the ranks of such prestigious resorts as Alta Snowbird, Aspen/Snowmass, Jackson Hole, Squaw Valley/Alpine Meadows, Mammoth Mountain and Whistler Blackcomb. The cost of the pass is $369 (£220) in total for two days’ skiing at each of the six North American areas, plus two days at Valle Nevado. The 2014 season at Valle Nevado is from June 27 to September 28. For more information: vallenevado.com/en Found, the lost world of the Andes! — Pages 36 to 41

Five british athletes who ‘created history’ receive the Pery Medal By Rosie Barcroft

Photo: Nick Atkins

Jones became the first Briton to win an Olympic medal in a snow event after claiming bronze in slopestyle at the 2014 Winter Olympics. Gallagher and Evans won Britain’s first ever Winter Paralympic gold medal, and Etherington and Powell won three silver medals and one bronze, making them the most successful female British Winter Paralympians of all time. The Pery Medal was instituted in 1929 by the Honourable EC Pery, later the Earl of Limerick, DSO, and President of the Ski Club from 1925 to 1927. The medal is awarded by the Ski Club Council to a skier, snowboarder, individual or organisation of any nationality who has made a notable contribution to our knowledge of mountaincraft in relation to skiing;

‘Stoked’: Jenny Jones, right, with Jamie Anderson, centre, and Enni Rukajärvi

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

achieved distinction in exploration on skis; notably advanced the technique of skiing; made an outstanding contribution to the success of competitive international skiing and the development of snowsports. Since it was founded, recipients have included Sir Arnold Lunn, Alain Baxter, and Hermann Maier. And last year the medal was given to Pat Sharples for his contribution to British freestyle skiing. Jones, 33, said: “I’m stoked to win the Pery Medal award. It’s a great honour, not only to be the first snowboarder to win, but to also be in such legendary company.” Gallagher, 29, said: “When I received the invitation to accept the Pery Medal alongside Charlotte, Jade, Caroline and Jenny, I was really proud — each one of us created history. For Charlotte and me to win Britain’s first gold medal on snow was a personal success. We are delighted to be able to share that success with everyone at home. The coverage and recognition that Sochi 2014 was afforded means so much to the development of our sport. “I’m so delighted that we have been able to showcase the fact that disability, gender or your home nation doesn’t mean you aren’t able to compete at the highest level and be best in the world. “I’d like to thank Charlotte for the passion and determination that she has shown to our journey to the top. We’ve worked relentlessly together over the past four years — amazing goals can be achieved with teamwork.” Frank Gardner, President of the Ski Club and BBC Security Correspondent, presented the medal. He said: “To be able to present the prestigious Pery Medal to some of Britain’s fastest and best from Sochi is a huge honour. As a guest commentator on the Sochi games for Channel 4, I watched spellbound — as countless others did — as these skiers at the top of their game came tearing down that distinctly end-of-

Gold: Kelly Gallagher and Charlotte Evans

Jade Etherington, 23, won four medals

I’m so delighted that we have been able to showcase the fact that disability, gender or your home nation doesn’t mean you aren’t able to compete at the highest level and be the best in the world season course to race to glory for them, for Britain, and for anyone else who has had to overcame adversity, disability and life-changing injuries.” Evans said: “To receive the Pery Award was a huge honour, and I am pleased to be following in the footsteps of other great achievers. I feel it was great to be up collecting the Pery Award with our team mates, as we all worked extremely hard ready for the biggest event of our lives.” Powell added: “I felt privileged to help Jade achieve her goals at the Paralympics, and to inspire younger people to get involved in the sport.”

Photo: sochi.paralympics.org.uk

Professional snowboarder Jenny Jones and Paralympic skiers Kelly Gallagher and Jade Etherington and guides Charlotte Evans and Caroline Powell have been awarded the Pery Medal for their incredible achievements in Sochi earlier this year.

Climbing

Italy

Wired for war Invented by Italian soldiers to get around the mountains during the First World War, via ferrata is today a surprisingly accessible form of climbing that allows non-mountaineers to scale vertical faces. With his heart thumping in his chest Ben Rowley headed to the Dolomites to try it out.

The view from the via ferrata trail leading towards the Rifugio Averau overlooking the Cinque Torri peaks in the direction of Cortina dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Ampezzo â&#x20AC;&#x201D; a battlefield fought over by the Italians and Austro-Hungarians during the First World War

Elevation June 2014 â&#x20AC;˘ skiclub.co.uk

According to Marcello Cominetti, my mountain for loose rocks”. He added: “Any rocks you do send guide, “via ferrata is hiking with a harness, not down the mountain, shout ‘sasso!’ [meaning stone climbing”. But when I was greeted by a sheer rock in English]. And make sure you don’t look up if face towering above me I began to doubt his words. someone shouts the same!” Perhaps this was an extreme kind of hiking? Arriving at our accommodation for the night, I When summer begins, many winter sports was impressed. My experience of mountain refuges enthusiasts still want their mountain fix. So when I is fairly limited, but they’ve always been very basic was given the opportunity to try via ferrata for the buildings containing the essentials. However, Rifugio first time, I decided to scale new heights, and found Averau could be called a four-star hotel. Recently myself in Cortina d’Ampezzo in Italy, ready to give renovated, it sits at the top of a mountain pass, and it a go. can only be accessed by a footpath in the summer Via ferrata is Latin for and a ski run in the ‘Iron Way’. The original winter. Having been fed Any rocks you do send down the mountain, via ferrata were routes generously, I drifted shout ‘sasso!’ [meaning stone in English]. And across the mountains off enjoying the sound make sure you don’t look up if someone shouts over which Italian soldiers of silence, a rarity in the same carried munitions and modern life. supplies in the First World War, when fighting the The next morning Cominetti and I stood in front of Austrian forces. They consisted of a series of metal a huge cliff face. It was here I doubted his “via ferrata cables, rungs, ladders and bridges. is hiking with a harness, not climbing” words. Still, I Now, via ferrata has been adapted for public couldn’t wait to “hike” up Punta Anna at 2,743m. “The use across Europe with routes rated from A to E route is really two ferrata combined into one,” said (A being the easiest) and climbs have been made Cominetti. “The lower part is the Guiseppe Olivieri achievable in relative safety for the visiting masses. ferrata, or the Punta Anna ferrata, and the upper part There is no risk of falling because you have two is the Gianni Agilio ferrata.” He added: “It’s going to karabiners on your harness — so each time you clip be pretty hard, but very fun.” onto the next stretch of safety cable, you are held To reach the cable, you have to walk for an hour fast by the other — while following a series of metal up quite a steep scree, just above the beginning of rungs drilled into the rock to supplement the natural the Cortina downhill ski run, which has hosted the foot and hand holds. International Ski Federation (FIS) World Cup. Cominetti works with Dolomite Mountains Ltd, Some via ferrata cables start gently and gradually which runs bespoke via ferrata holidays in the Cortina get steeper and more technical as they go on. Punta area throughout the summer and ski safaris in the Anna starts steep and technical, and remains that way winter. The company’s roots are in the Dolomites until the top. Breathing deeply, I put my newfound and it works with hotels and mountain inns to skills to the test. Soon, I was climbing properly and provide guests a unique experience. All the guides keeping up with Cominetti, who led the way, making hail from and live in the region and hold the highest the whole process look like a gentle hike. I guess international certification. Cominetti is no exception. that’s what happens when you’ve climbed the world’s He has been an UIAGM Mountain Guide since 1984 highest mountain. and an instructor for UIAGM mountain guide courses After three hours of snaking our way up the rock from 1989 to 1998. He has also mastered some of face, we reached the summit. The dull ache in my the most difficult climbing routes such as the north legs, tightness in my arms, and T-shirt drenched in face of the Eiger, Fitz Roy in Patagonia, Yosemite and sweat was completely worth it. A clear view across Everest. I was looking forward to learning more about the valleys was suspended before us; even the via ferrata and the Dolomites, but I first had to put up many colours of Venice were visible in the distance. with his taste in Italian rock. ‘Frozen Rats’ anyone? Thoughts of relocating and starting a new career After familiarising ourselves with the equipment flitted around my head, before I slowly remembered and hiking tempo we reached the summit of Averau, the famous quote by Isaac Newton: “What goes up part of the Averau-Nuvolau group, near the town of must come down.” I looked over at Cominetti who Cortina d’Ampezzo. Even though it sits at only was already checking our equipment ready for the 2,649 metres, the panorama is incredible — we could descent. Perhaps I’ll build a rifugio instead… BR even see Monte Rosa, Italy’s highest peak, at 4,634m. Ben Rowley was a guest of Dolomite Mountains Cominetti had been a wonderful encouragement (+39 0471 840005; dolomitemountains.com), throughout the climb, forever reminding me to, which offers five-day via ferrata trips from £770 (minimum “clip on to the cable, move smoothly and look out four people) staying at a mix of rifugio and three-star hotels. There are set departures this summer from 6 to 10 July and 9 to 13 September. Bespoke trips are also available. A clear view across the valleys was suspended The price includes UIAGM mountain guides, all via ferrata before us; even the many colours of Venice were equipment, private transfers, maps and meals as per set visible in the distance itinerary, but not flights.

Photo: Trentino Tourist Board, visittrentino.it

Italy

Photo: Ben Rowley

Climbing

Do a First World War via ferrata tour To mark the centenary of the start of the First World War, many travellers will be making voyages of remembrance to Belgium and Northern France. But few Britons know of the war that was fought in the beautiful Dolomites, which claimed a million lives. The best way to see the well-preserved fortifications here is by doing a via ferrata tour, where you can climb to the mile-high trenches and even go through the tunnels of the original battlefield. In parts of Italy, half the via ferrata routes follow the original soldiers’ paths. And it was here the concept of via ferrata was invented to help Italian soldiers get about as they fought the Austrian forces. In 1915 Italy launched a disastrous assault on the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which would cost it three quarters of a million lives. Several times when the Italians were going over the top, the Austrians shouted at them, begging them to go back, to spare mowing them down with machine-gun fire. With both sides stuck in stalemate, they took to firing shells above enemy lines to set off avalanches above each other’s impenetrable positions. You can read compelling stories of this war in a highly-acclaimed recent book: The White War, by Mark Thompson. Ernest Hemingway also wrote A Farewell to Arms about his experience as an ambulance man on the Southern Front — he was wounded in battle. There are numerous small museums, usually next to cable car stations, where you can see the flimsy uniforms in which the troops had to survive. If you take the Lagazuoi cable car, just five miles from Cortina d’Ampezzo, study the vertical face ahead of you. It may look like any other cliff, but inside is a rabbit warren of tunnels housing the Austrian defences. You can see old shells and other relics in the café at the top. To your right you see another much tunnelled peak — the Castelletto, which the Italians were unable to capture. So they placed what remains the largest land mine in military history. Through cracks in the rock, the Austrian defenders were even able to smell the Italian cooking underneath them as they got close. When the mine — which was a year in the making — was exploded leaving a hole ‘the size of a cathedral’, the Italian troops surged forward. The first wave dropped dead of carbon monoxide poisoning, the second were killed by falling boulders and the third were picked off by the ten surviving Austrian troops. It took the Italians another three months to capture the peak — a symbol of the futility of the attack. For more information visit: trentinograndeguerra.it

Photo: Stefano Zardini/ Lagazuoi 5 Torri

Via ferrata involves a series of ladders and cables to allow hikers to climb in security

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Hiking

Great Britain Photo: Visit England

Where there’s a Will... On the 450th year of the Bard’s birth, Paul Bloomfield follows his path on Shakespeare’s Way from Stratford to Oxford on a tour where his bags are carried for him

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Left Shakespeare’s birthplace in Stratfordupon-Avon Below The view across the rolling Cotswolds

23 Photo: Macs Adventure

It didn’t take long for our attempt to Do A Shakespeare to come unstuck. Breakfast on our first morning, in fact. “Bacon?” Sure. “Eggs?” Scrambled, please. “Sausage, beans, mushrooms, toast, tomato, coffee, more toast and more coffee…” Verily — why not? A slap-up B&B breakfast is one of the great joys of a long-distance walking holiday. You tramped a dozen miles yesterday, with a dozen or more to cover today — after that second (or third) coffee, of course. There’s no better justification for filling your boots with the full English. But we were channelling Shakespeare — or trying to. He was a hiker, too, though by necessity rather than choice: sometime before 1592, he made his first journey to London — and being a man of modest means, a horse would have been out of the question. As, almost certainly, would breakfast, which was pretty much unheard of in Tudor times. So that mammoth fry-up (four of them, on consecutive mornings, actually) was a black mark against our efforts to follow in the Bard’s footsteps. Together with three hike-happy friends, I was fuelling up to tackle a stretch of Shakespeare’s Way, a 146-mile trail (completed in 2006) between Stratford-upon-Avon and London’s Globe Theatre. Each year we lace up for a few days’ walking, and the Bard’s 450th birthday in 2014 seemed a good enough excuse to choose this for our annual boots-andbrews break. We’d be covering the first 58 miles from Stratford to Oxford on a self-guided package, with pre-booked accommodation and our main backpacks transported between B&Bs — and trying to catch a bit of the Shakespeare vibe en route. On a bright autumn morning we happy few, we band of brothers (and sisters: Sarah, Helen, Stephen and I) prefaced our hike with a whistle-stop wander around Stratford. First, to Shakespeare’s Birthplace, noting the window famously graffitied by vandals including Tennyson and Scott. Then the snug Actor’s Bar of the Dirty Duck, where we toasted our walk — and played ‘name the luvvy’ (trivia game) with the signed photos lining the walls. (I bagged Larry Olivier, Emily Watson, Richard Burton and a startlingly youthful Derek Jacobi, sporting Noel Edmonds’ beard.) Finally, we nipped into the 13th-century Holy Trinity Church to tip a nod to Shakespeare’s final resting place, before crossing the Avon to start the walk proper. Given its genesis in the West Midlands, there’s a surprising amount of bucolic loveliness among the route’s gentle undulations as it skirts the edge of the Cotswolds, taking in any number of cutesy villages. And pubs. Plenty of pubs. The first village, just a mile or so outside Stratford, set the tone. We reached Clifford Chambers via a lily pond and the gates of its grand manor (designed by Lutyens, don’t you know), which lords it over the thatched cottages lining its green. All it needed was a smock-clad yokel in stocks to complete the stereotype.

More honeypot hamlets passed, increasingly I tried to enlighten the others with quaint villages with some historical insights and was mullions and gables and rewarded for my troubles with a horse timbers and immaculately chestnut lobbed at my head tended flowerbeds. There were venerable churches and stately piles, too — first Alscott Manor then Ettington Park, where we spotted our first buzzard. Birding expert Helen delighted in pointing it out, along with warblers and finches, a heron flapping off alongside the Stour, and a kestrel hovering high above the Wagtail Brook. At Halford we crossed the Fosse Way, a Roman road that Shakespeare must have encountered at such a point. A stroll through lush Henry’s Meadow brought us past the 16th-century manor and working smithy to the church, with its Norman carvings. I tried to enlighten the others with some historical insights and was rewarded for my troubles with a horse chestnut lobbed at my head: “Pretentious git!” smirked Stephen. “A plague on both your houses!” I retorted imperiously (or maybe just pretentiously). The day ended at Shipston-on-Stour, where we lolled in the sunshine outside the 16th-century George Hotel. “Give me a cup of sack, rogue!” I called, in homage to Henry IV. Literary quotes are all very well, but a dirty look from Sarah suggested that another conker might be heading my way if I didn’t get the round in. I bet Shakespeare never had to put up with plebs chucking things at him. Day two brought us to the Neolithic Rollright Stones, including Britain’s easternmost stone circle, the King’s Men, dating from about 2500BC. Diminutive by the standards of Stonehenge or Avebury, it’s eerie all the same. Nearby Long

Hiking

Great Britain

Compton was once a hotbed of witches, who would probably have climbed to the stones for a spot of moonlit hubbling, bubbling, toiling and so on – all very Macbeth. Legend has it that it’s impossible to count the stones — if you do get the same tally three times, you’ll encounter bad luck. I tried, and then dropped my sandwich, open face down. If that’s not bad luck, I don’t know what is.

Nearby Long Compton was once a hotbed of witches, who would probably have climbed to the stones for a spot of moonlit hubbling, bubbling, toiling and so on – all very Macbeth

Below Shakespeare’s Way runs from Stratfordupon-Avon to London

The highlight of day three was a bit of a Narnia moment. We’d been following Akeman Street, a lesser known Roman road between Cirencester and St Albans; today, it’s a rather dusty, nondescript trail. But we hauled ourselves over the vast drystone wall around Blenheim Park and the atmosphere was transformed. The Capability Brown-landscaped grounds are spectacular in themselves, and the hulking baroque mansion Winston Churchill’s birthplace — and massive Column of Victory were suitably epic as a backdrop for our peregrinations. Oxford, our final destination, has its own Shakespeare connection. The Crown Tavern, once

owned by the playwright’s friend, John Davenant, probably hosted the bard on his journey. Today, though, the remnants of the pub are buried behind a bookie’s on the busy Cornmarket, though plans are afoot to open the medieval daubs of the Painted Rooms to the public. But our disappointment was short-lived. A pint or two, a slap-up dinner, some slightly raucous blarney and a comfy bed reminded me of the real joys of this kind of walking trip. I’ve walked long trails before — all 630 miles of England’s South West Coast Path, for starters, lugging full camping clobber. But, though there’s a wonderful freedom in such endeavours, it’s a total delight arriving at a B&B or pub to find a bag of clean clothes and a hot shower waiting after a long day’s walking. And that last night, as I prepared to sleep, perchance to dream, I reflected that I wouldn’t have done it any other way — even with the best Will in the world. PB Paul followed a self-guided Shakespeare’s Way itinerary with Macs Adventure (0141 530 1950; macsadventure.com), which offers five-to seven-day options with B&B from £375 per person, including accommodation, luggage transfers, guidebook and route notes. Macs Adventure has more than 200 walking trips around the UK & Europe, which can be tailor made according to level of fitness.

Photo: Macs Adventure

Summer holidayS

490

from

Gear up for summer! Get set for a holiday where you can combine exhilarating activities and relaxation for the perfect summer escape. Choose from our selection of sunny beach resorts from Portugal to Turkey. With so much included in the price from watersports to mountain biking, plus a choice of pools and beautiful beaches, it’s easy to be as energetic or lazy as you like!

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Corsica |

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Portugal |

Turkey

ATOL1176 protected. £490 price shown is per person including fuel supplement, applies to 7 nights at San Lucianu Beach Resort, Corsica departing 20th September 2014. Prices featured are for new bookings only, cannot be offered in retrospect, cannot be combined with other offers, are subject to availability and can be withdrawn at any time. Facilities and inclusives vary between resorts. Tennis and mountain biking are chargeable at Sea Garden and there are no watersports at Ocean Club. See website for Mark Warner Ltd’s full terms and conditions.

Cycle

Bl o wn

Scotland

awa y

Vicky Norman stands up to the wind as she explores CairnGorm Mountain by bike CairnGorm Mountain swept me off my feet. Or more specifically, the wind at the top of Scotland’s only funicular railway did. Colin Kirkwood, a manager at CairnGorm, pointed in the direction of a protected area near the summit while I flailed hopelessly at his feet. “The wind has really picked up today,” he yelled over his shoulder and turned to see where I had gone. A helping hand and chuckled apology later, and I stand braced against the buffeting gale.

“It’s protected up here,” said Kirkwood. “So you need to book a qualified guide if you want to go for a walk or try mountain biking. There are some rare wildlife, birds and habitats we have to be mindful of.” The dotterel and ptarmigan birds, which the Ptarmigan Restaurant at the top station is named after, feature among the rarest. “If you walk up under your own steam it’s okay,” added Kirkwood. “But we can’t have funicular-loads of people trampling all over a delicate conservation area.” I stood on the viewing terrace

and scanned the horizon. The cloud lifted like a stage curtain revealing dramatic glimpses of forests, lochs and snowy peaks. It was late April, yet the iconic White Lady ski run was still covered with snow. “Not bad eh?” said Kirkwood. An understatement if I’d ever heard one. Unlike most Continental ski resorts, which close in late April or early May, you can ski for as long as there is snow on CairnGorm Mountain, and recent years have seen some of the best conditions yet. The two guided mountain bike routes, ‘Hill Track’ and ‘Ridge to River’, which I was about to

Photo: Easy Locum

Scotland

try, usually descend from the top of the funicular. But because of the late season snow, we had to improvise. Back down to the base station we went. At the bottom, I was introduced to a brand new Specialized Rockhopper full suspension mountain bike, a bundle of protective gear and Jim Cornfoot, land and deputy operations manager and guide, who seemed unconcerned by my lack of experience. “Don’t worry,” he said. “We’ll test out your skills first. I’ve guided more novice bikers than you.” After a quick cycling skills session to build my confidence (and to reassure Cornfoot I could ride a bike) we set off on the second, lower section of the ‘Ridge to River’ route through the caledonian pine forest of Glenmore. The trees stood fast against the wind and protected my rolling progress along the track. Teetering on the edge of control I eased off the breaks a little more and let out an impulsive whoop. “Keep your eyes peeled for red squirrels and wild cats,” said Cornfoot as the trail progressed around Loch Morlich. I scanned the bushes and tried to stay upright as my bike swerved through the mud and came to a stop. The freshwater loch is fringed by beaches and hosts a watersports centre offering kayaking, sailing and windsurfing. I would happily stay put, walking, riding, and paddling…

I was introduced to a brand new Specialized rock hopper full suspension mountain bike, a bundle of protective gear and Jim Cornfoot, who seemed unconcerned by my lack of experience No wonder Cornfoot had packed up his southern life and moved to the Highlands. As we joined the Old Logging Way, the light turned warm yellow and I was struck by the vibrancy of my surroundings. The green of the trees and lilac heather stood out against the marshy jet black peat and fought for my attention as I tried to negotiate the twists and turns on the way to Rothiemurchus, in the heart of Cairngorms. Years ago, the five-anda-half km logging path was used to transport logs from Glenmore, but it now provides a safe off-road route for walkers, runners, horse riders and cyclists throughout the year. Safe, that is, unless I’m riding it. The guided ‘Ridge to River’ ride usually descends 3,000 feet from the Ptarmigan top station and takes around four hours to complete. However, the improvised route was enough to win me over. If you’ve never tried off-road mountain biking before, the Cairngorms are a great place to start because they offer a wealth of progressive terrain up

to expert level and are often described as having some of the best backcountry trails in the world. Their charm, however, extends beyond the dynamic landscape. This is a local’s mountain and the characters that live here assert it’s a real town — not just a resort. As I supped a beer in The Doo Below (a bar below the Ski-ing Doo restaurant which, incidentally, is a pun on ‘sgiandubh’, a short ceremonial dagger worn in the sock with a kilt) I realised I didn’t want to go back to London. I had missed weeks of glorious weather by a whisker, but was bowled over by this country of extremes. VN

Travel was provided by Visit Scotland on the Caledonian Sleeper train from London St Pancras to Aviemore, advance single fares start at £68.10 (0844 556 5636, scotrail.co.uk). ‘Ridge to River’ and ‘Hill Track’ guided mountain bike descents take place on Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday and cost £35 (for ‘Ridge to River’) or £25 (‘Hill Track’) per adult including funicular travel. Junior prices (age 12-16) from £20. For further information on CairnGorm Mountain see: cairngormmountain.org or call 01479 861261 For local food and accommodation visit: Cairngorm Hotel: cairngorm.com or The Old Bridge Inn and Bunkhouse: oldbridgeinn.co.uk

Photo: cairngormmountain.org

The cloud lifted like a stage curtain revealing dramatic glimpses of forests, lochs and snowy peaks

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Cycle

France

Wheels (of cheese) keep on turninâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;...

All Photos: Joseph Williamson

Swapping water for wine and energy bars for cheese, Rosie Barcroft takes part in the gruelling debut Roc des Alpes mountain bike eventâ&#x20AC;Świth a twist

“Go,” shouted Samuel Porret the paragliding instructor. So I pulled against the ropes and ran. Ran until my feet no longer touched the ground. Ran until I was flying through the air. It was so…green! Having never been to a ski resort in the summer, my first thought was inevitable. Used to snowcapped mountains, icicles hanging off roofs and frost patterns on glass, the rich grass, spring flowers and warm breeze momentarily threw me. Luckily, I wasn’t in La Clusaz, France, for skiing. Instead I was to take part in the debut Roc des Alpes, a new biking event showcasing the magnificent scenery of the Aravis range. The threeday programme included different activities and a chance to try the latest equipment and clothing. I couldn’t wait. When the Roc des Alpes was first discussed, Alexandre Maslin the event director, said: “The choice of La Clusaz was made due to several factors: the potential catchment population for this new event is considerable, with Switzerland and Italy nearby; also, there are many neighbouring towns like Annecy, which boast the European headquarters of many sports brands.” Months later, Maslin’s dream came true. Driving through La Clusaz from Geneva airport the streets were bustling with riders and spectators, colourful banners were displayed on lampposts and all the bars were thriving. Arriving at the four star Hotel Beauregard situated just above the village centre, I was greeted by Stéphanie Pollet, the communications manager for Lake Annecy Ski Resorts (which encompasses La Clusaz). After a quick tour of the area, we settled down in Le Bistro, part of the Hotel le Christiana for some lunch. “Over 4,000 people will compete in the Roc des Alpes,” said Pollet.

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Left Bird’s eye view of the race — Rosie all set to paraglide with instructor Samuel Porret

“About 40 per cent are locals,” she continued. “Even my two sons are competing. The event’s sporting manager, Frédéric Salomone, designed all 10 races. He’s made sure they suit all ages and abilities. La Clusaz has the advantage of being situated at 1,040 metres above sea level; as a result, the competitors can enjoy climbs up to summits but the routes are still relatively accessible. We had to contact over 900 landowners from nine different municipalities to request permission to cross their land. Plus we’ve also recruited many volunteers. “And I’ve signed us both up for the Rando Roc Gourmande,” she finished, grinning. Roughly translated as the gourmet mountain bike ride, the 10-kilometre course swapped water for wine and energy bars for cheese. We were also exchanging normal mountain bikes for brand new e-Matra (electric) versions. These were of course for research purposes and nothing to do with the fact we wouldn’t be able to keep up with the competitors without them. With the Rando Roc Gourmande not scheduled to start until the following day, we scouted out other events and activities on offer. Standing outside the Tourist Office, we watched a rider jump down the stairs before pelting across the courtyard. Pollet and I cheered as the next cyclist streamed by, followed by countless more. The Roc Eliminator had begun. The race — taking place in the village centre — used buildings, walkways and fountains as obstacles. Setting off in pairs, the athletes competed for the fastest time, while demonstrating speed

We were on electric bikes, which were of course for research purposes and nothing to do with the fact we wouldn’t be able to keep up with the competitors without them and agility. After applauding the winner, Simon Gegenheimer, I walked back to Hotel Beauregard ready to face the Rando Roc Gourmande. “Trois. Deux. Un. Allez, allez!” shouted the announcer the next morning, sounding his horn. Pollet and I put our feet to the pedals and pushed. We were off. The race had begun. The sun was shining; the cheese was beckoning and the wine, well — what better way to sample it than surrounded by nature? Speeding past the competitors (who were struggling up the hill) on our electric bikes, we couldn’t help but whoop with enjoyment. But what goes up must come down. And go down I did. For their many bonuses, the main flaw of the e-Matra bikes is their weight. Elbows jarring, brakes permanently squeezed, I made my first clumsy descent trying to avoid the protruding tree roots, rocks and other cyclists who flew past me, nimbly jumping over obstacles while hovering permanently behind their saddles. However, all efforts were worth it for the food, laid out by volunteers and locals. After my fifth piece of Reblochon and second glass of squash (to dilute the glass of wine) Pollet and I felt ready to tackle the last steep. Fifteen minutes later, we’d made it down feeling definitely shaken, but invigorated. We stopped to watch the other cyclists

Cycle

France

30 Above Dramatic Alpine scenery lines the course

Below A sea of cyclists compete in the weekend event

casually shooting over boulders, before skimming through the mud and carving round the bend. Slowly, we made our way back to the village to watch the main event, The Roc Marathon. The hundreds of competitors, sporting top of the range mountain bikes and streamlined gear had set off earlier that morning. They moved as a collective wave through the village before powering up the surrounding mountains. I’d seen them at various stages, either clambering up rocky paths with their bikes slung over their shoulders or navigating narrow bridges. They made my mountain bike debut seem like a casual potter around a park. Four hours, 37 minutes and 47 seconds (and 80 kilometres) later, Swedish cyclist Carl Friberg crossed the finish line with his arms raised. After suffering with oxygen deficiency — where he had to push his bike up some of the trickier terrain, taking care not

Cyclists flew past me, nimbly jumping over obstacles while hovering permanently behind their saddles to hit any roots or rocks which could damage his wheels — Friberg said: “I’m extremely exhausted, but above all extremely happy. I was cramping towards the end but I managed to dose my efforts. It was a backbreaking ride. I didn’t have good legs at first. Maybe it was too early for me. But, little by little, things started getting better. I made the difference on the second descent”. With a few hours before my transfer to Geneva airport, Pollet had one final surprise up her sleeve, paragliding. Minutes later, after trying to quash my fear of heights, I found myself sitting on the Crêt du Merle chairlift with Samuel Porret, a skiing and paragliding instructor for the European Ski Federation and European Paragliding Federation. He seemed to live the dream, teaching on snow during the winter and in the air for the summer. On the chairlift, he went through the basics: “Make sure you

don’t sit down too soon. Try and keep running even if your feet leave the ground — we might bounce. And look into the turn otherwise you might feel a little queasy.” At the top of the chair, with the wind in our faces, Porret triple checked all the cables and harnesses. In front of us was a small slope down, followed by a drop. I gulped. “On the count of three Rosie,” Porret shouted. “One, two, three go!” We pulled against the ropes and ran. Seconds later we were in the air, my legs still going through the sprinting motion like a cartoon figure — just as well, we bumped back to the ground for a few steps before soaring off the mountain and over the valley, spiralling up on the thermals — my fear of heights seemingly evaporated. Adrenalin pumped through my body as we were suspended in mid-air. Sweeping to the left and then curving to the right I could see all of La Clusaz; the beautiful town, melodic cattle, vibrant pastures and jagged mountains. And if you looked really closely, I swear you could see a few cyclists who hadn’t made it back to the centre. They must have been finishing off the cheese. RB Rosie Barcroft was a guest at four-star Hotel Beauregard: hotel-beauregard.fr. For details on the Roc des Alpes event see: rocdesalpes.com. This summer’s event is held from June 13 to 15. See laclusaz-tour.com for accommodation packages. For details on Lake Annecy Ski Resorts: lakeannecy-skiresorts.com

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£10 discount is applicable to all return bookings on any ticket type. Fares include taxes and charges and are subject to availability. Discount for Ski Club GB members is only available on flybe.com and is for new flight bookings made between 23.05.2014 and 01.07.14 for travel between 13.12.14 and 28.03.15. Not all flights operate for the entire travel period. Route information correct at time of going to print. Any ticket/itinerary changes may be subject to collection between the discounted fare and the full fare, plus itinerary change fees. Discount code cannot be used in conjunction with any other discount. Flybe reserves the right to amend or remove this promotion at any time. No debit card fees apply. Bookings made by credit card will incur a fee of 3% of the total transaction value, with a minimum charge of £5.00 per booking.

Switzerland

Photo: Switzerland Tourism, Robert Boesch

Cycle

on a swiss roll

Swiss Trails offers various activity packages throughout Switzerland. Holidays can be booked via the Switzerland Travel Centre, STC, and similar packages start at £535 per person for four nights in three-star accommodation including flights. To book call 020 7420 4938. For more information visit MySwitzerland.com/outdoor.

Rob Crabtree enjoys an introduction to cycle touring in Switzerland, where your luggage is carried for you. But that didn’t stop him complaining. I’m surrounded by a cloudless sky, crisp clean air, tranquil lakes and dramatic snow-capped mountains. Above me, an eagle soars on the thermals, looking for prey on the valley floor. I put my naturalist tendencies to one side and pedalled on, trying to keep up with the group ahead. The difficulty: I’m in the Bernese Oberland, between Boltigen and Interlaken and the scenery is beautiful. It wasn’t my first visit to the region. I made my skiing debut on the slopes of Wengen, a few miles away. But this was different. White was green, I was sitting rather than standing, and wearing quite a lot less clothing. Well the sitting one might not strictly be true. Learning to ski certainly took its toll on the posterior, and a few days in the saddle wasn’t going to be any different. I was part of a small group of intrepid cyclists, making our primary turns in the world of cycle touring. Flanked by lush mountain pastures and a full orchestra of bell-playing cows, we were on the road to Interlaken and it was downhill, for now.

Thirty minutes passed, and aside from the open-mouthed wonder serving as a highly effective insect trap, it was going well. Our leader, Rudi Jaisli, led from the front, guiding us through villages, over streams, and stopping once in a while to gather the stragglers. This was his territory, and years of experience and a clear passion for the area meant a world of wisdom and a beaming Swiss smile. Our introduction to cycle touring could only be described as the ‘glamping of the cycle world’. The panniers, or lack of, gave us the freedom to roam without having to carry any luggage at all. This was the Swiss Trails way. Our arrival in Boltigen, near Bern, was an hour before by comfortable minibus, complete with trailer and bikes. Having ascended the 300 or so vertical metres, it was our turn to put in some leg work, safe in the knowledge that our bags would be waiting for us at the hotel, about 50km from where we left them. However, it turned out a Swiss kilometre seemed very different from a British one, or Jaisli may have been massaging the figures. The twisting and turning valley trails were behind us and our miniadventure brought us to the shore of the Thunersee, a vast lake or inland sea, stretching from Thun to

Interlaken. Our leader flew ahead while we gathered to enjoy a brief respite and taste of a ‘local’ speciality, Haribo Tangfastics. The two lakes mirrored the setting sun and the shores were busy with locals enjoying the warm evening. The smell of barbecues filled the air giving the boost needed to arrive in time for dinner. Like any long journey, “are we nearly there yet?” began to ring out from the back of the group. The 50 British kilometres had passed long ago and we were well into Swiss kilometre territory. Luckily, my sugar rush from the ‘local’ delicacies had arrived. Switzerland is blessed with 9000km of cycle routes graded according to difficulty, all clearly signposted. We only scratched the surface with our moderate adventure but it was clear — should you wish to venture off on your own, you wouldn’t spend the entire time with your head in a map, looking into the distance with a puzzled expression. Paths turned into roads and vice versa, but aside from one wrong turn, it was smooth and relaxed. We were riders, adventurers, and photographers, spreading our wings, absorbing every view with keen sight. We were eagles. Well, not quite, but it was adventure, beauty and simplicity, the outdoor Swiss way. RC Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Photos: Rob Crabtree

We were on the road to Interlaken and it was downhill, for now

Canyoning

Italy

Go with the flow Combining rocks and water, Colin Nicholson jumps into the world of canyoning... or perhaps not

In winter, I love finding my way down mountain gullies on skis. In summer, I love swimming through labyrinths of rocks. But I never imagined combining the two; until friends told me I must go canyoning. Canyoning is swimming and doing bum slides down a gorge; scrambling across baking rock and jumping into dark, limpid pools. Now that the sport is taking off, a trip to Italy seemed the perfect moment to try it, though I did worry about how my partner Anthony would cope. He is no thrill-seeker, rarely joining me off-piste, but the leaflet was reassuring. Our Easy & Fun tour was, the brochure gushed, “an ideal canyon for kids (minimum age 12). Not too difficult...” We had come to Lake Garda with tour operator Crystal Summer, which offers a mix of chill out activities such as wine-tasting and trips to Verona and Venice, with wind-surfing, kite surfing or catamaraning on the azure water, or via ferrata and mountain biking. Canyoning is not an activity offered directly by Crystal, but with the guides busily handing out safety gear such as helmets and harnesses with the wetsuits, what could we fear? And with

It was a beautiful late August day, with the dappled sunlight burning through a forest canopy buzzing with insect and bird life that we clambered down the side of the road to sit in the eddies of a small pool in the Palvico river for our briefing. Diego explained in good English to the half of us who were not Italian — eight or so Swedes and Germans plus the two of us — how in shallow water we would do bum-jumps, in deeper water, shallow dives, and in the deepest pools, feet-first jumps.

Bum jumps? Dives? I put the thought to the back of my mind. It was a beautiful late August day, with the dappled sunlight burning through a forest canopy buzzing with insect and bird life. The swimming was lovely: front crawl or breaststroke through clear shallows, back crawl in the darker, deeper water to admire the walls of rock either side. At a small drop Diego encouraged us to try a bum jump. I politely declined. At a small waterfall, he jokily tripped Anthony up to get him to do a shallow dive. Again I lowered myself in. I had tactically positioned us in the middle of the group. However, by the time of our next test, Anthony was far ahead. All I could hear of it was the regular diminuendo of a scream followed by a splat. Anthony, who was in his element, called back: “Don’t worry, you’ll be fine.” Fine? Why? What were they up to? And then I saw it. All the water in the river was throwing itself down the steep entrance to a cave towards a small disk of light. Above me was sheer rock. Aside from this slide of smooth stone, there was no way out. Just a few inches of cord at the top flapped like an executioner’s noose in the waves. I had to go with the flow. Gripping the rope, I inched forward, until my clasp gave on its last frayed thread and I found myself hurtling down this watery helter skelter. Only this wasn’t a funfair or swimming pool slide, it was a hole in the rock. And I was hurtling down it, arms flailing, legs akimbo, until I saw a flash of light as I entered the cooling water mid-scream, with an “aaargh… glug”. But our Easy & Fun course had another surprise. A seven-metre jump into a rock pool. Now bear in mind that most beginner canyoning routes have an optional three or four-metre jump at the end. But again there was no way out. Below, the rest of the group were already

swimming eagerly to the next challenge. However, I had a surprise of my own for the guides. I had read the liability waiver in full in the van coming up the mountain. “It is written,” I said, speaking very clearly and slowly, “that you will abseil down anyone who is not prepared to do a jump.” Diego raised his eyes heavenward and, with a giant sigh, slung his sack to the ground and threw a rope down into the pool. “Relax,” he said. And he did indeed keep his part of the bargain. Only now were we able to exercise our get-out clause, or continue to the Integral route. So what did I choose? Let me just say it was with great pleasure that I discovered afterwards my packed lunch included a carton of wine. So I downed that, then Anthony’s too, as I sat by an idyllic mountain pool. And Anthony? Despite the fact that I’d swiped his wine, he was beaming — he’d loved every minute of it. CN Canyon Adventures, in Torbole (+39 334 869 8666; canyonadv.com) offers the 90-minute Easy & Fun descent for €59 and the two-hour Integral route for €69. More advanced descents take two to four hours and cost €69 to €125. Crystal Summer (0871 230 8180; crystal summer.co.uk) offers a week full board at the four-star Hotel Continental outside Torbole, including flights, transfers, bike hire, wine with dinner, day trip to Venice, Lake Garda tour, Dolomites tour and wine tour, from £626 per person (based on two sharing)

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

The tick list To get the full adrenaline rush ask any provider: »» »» »» »» »»

Do you go up or down the canyon? Does it include jumps? How high are they? Does it include slides? Does it include abseiling?

What to take: Providers should kit you out with: »» Wetsuit »» Neoprene socks (but you will need your own footwear) »» Lifejacket »» Helmet »» Harness Bring your own: »» Towel »» Waterproof footwear or old trainers you don’t mind getting wet »» Change of undergarments

Try this one at home, kids… With canyoning gaining popularity in the UK, several firms will take you down British gorges, principally in Wales, Scotland, the North West and South West. To make sure it isn’t a damp squib, check they go down — rather than up — the gorge, include jumps (ask how high they are), slides and abseiling. Some inexpensive providers use the term canyoning to describe gorge walking or scrambling. Call Of The Wild (01639 700 388; adventurebritain.com) offers genuine canyoning sessions in the Brecon Beacons from £55 per person. In the rest of Europe, canyoning is popular in the Dolomites, Alps and Pyrenees, but you can also do it in Madeira and Mallorca.

Ski

Chile & Argentina

Fou

und The lost world of the Andes!

A resort with a view: Making fresh tracks down to Valle Nevado Elevation June 2014 â&#x20AC;˘ skiclub.co.uk

Ski

Chile & Argentina

It may be late spring in the northern hemisphere, but if you’re already missing winter in the Alps or Rockies, you might just want to consider the Andes, where winter is around the corner. Our former editor, Arnie Wilson, knows them well, and recently returned from visiting four ski areas in Chile and Argentina as they were preparing for a new season. Here he describes the other-worldly charm that intoxicates visitors, leaving them raring to return.

one of the best in South America — before dropping across the Argentine border. The other is the Cardenal Antonio Samoré pass, much further south, where lush, sub-tropical vegetation, bent double with snow, lines the route, giving it a wintry, surreal ‘Lost World’ of Conan Doyle feel. The Samoré pass links both countries’ lake districts, from Chile’s Osorno district to Argentine’s San Carlos de Bariloche. The Osorno area is home to two volcano ski resorts — Osorno itself and Antillanca, on the Casablanca Volcano some 60 miles away and less When I flew into the blazing sunshine of Santiago in than 20 miles from the Argentine border. From here early March for a two-week tour of the wonderfully you can see two more volcanoes: Puntiaqudo and impressive Andes, which divide South America’s Calbuco. For those wishing to work their way down principal skiing nations of Chile and Argentina, the the Andes, a practical way is to start on one side resorts in both countries were gearing up for winter. (Chile makes more sense, as starting in Buenos Aires The skiing there is richly rewarding — but you means a long drive or flight to reach the slopes) and need to plan carefully before you venture 7,250 miles ski there until the opportunity arises to cross one to enjoy the stunning cordillera that provides such of the two passes. You can then linger on the other a spectacular backbone to both countries. There’s side of the Andes until your next chance to change no skiing near Buenos Aires, but spending a few countries. The best solution might well be to do your days there on your way provides an exciting and entire Chile skiing before crossing into Argentina. exotic entrée or finale to an There are four resorts within unforgettable experience. Lush, sub-tropical vegetation striking distance of Santiago. And having journeyed all that lines the route, giving it a wintry The three closest, a mere 30 way, you might want to do a little ‘Lost World’ of Conan Doyle feel miles or so from the Chilean more than just ski the resorts capital, are linked: Valle Nevado, closest to the Chilean capital, Santiago. the French-designed, purpose-built ski centre and If you do decide to be adventurous and move south the only genuine destination resort of the three; La from the easy-to-reach Santiago resorts, remember Parva, an up-market resort where wealthy Chileans that you can’t just drift from one country’s slopes have second or even third homes; and El Colorado, a to those of the other at will. You can take a rental more prosaic ski area, whose custom is drawn mainly car from Chile to Argentina, but not vice-versa. And at weekends from day trippers from Santiago. there are only two mountain passes that link the two A little further afield (some 100 miles from nations in winter. By far the nearest to Santiago is the Santiago) is Portillo, a resort in a spectacular location bleak and desolate Uspallata pass, which culminates on the shores of the Laguna del Inca. In the days at Chile’s most established ski resort of Portillo — when the only way to reach Mendoza in Argentina Right Showing off: Valle Nevada in all its splendour Left Mountain heights: The vertiginous train journey

Photo: Eliseo Miciu

from Santiago was the Trans Andean Railway, Portillo, at almost the highest point the railway reached, was linked to the track via a short spur line. Because Chile is such an extraordinarily long and thin country, getting to many of the other resorts involves travelling considerable distances to the south. As you move down the seemingly endless cordillera, the terrain becomes more and more interesting, with volcanoes rearing up in spectacular fashion, and the ski areas you reach become more and more exotic… but less Alpine. Nevados de Chillan ski resort (formerly called Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Termas de Chillan) is on the cusp of this transition, and it is fortunate to have the best of both worlds — a truly extensive, reasonably modern ski resort combining a fascinating volcanic flavour… and smell. Even the mild stench of sulphur has a curious attraction once you realise that it does not come from the drains of the mountain restaurant. The nearby city of Chillan was the birthplace of Chile’s unlikely first president, Bernardo O’Higgins, born in 1778 the illegitimate son of an Irish-born governor of Chile and Viceroy of Peru, and a young Chilean aristocrat almost 40 years his junior. To this

Photo: Chris Davenport + Jesse James

Ski

Chile & Argentina

day his name lives on: every major city in Chile has something named after him, be it a street, a hotel or even a football team. Although Chile’s railway system is almost nonexistent, if you don’t fancy the long haul down the Pan American Highway, there’s a good train service from Santiago to Chillan, which takes about five hours. From Chillan, you’ll need to rent a car to investigate Chilean volcano resorts such as Villarrica Pucon, Llaima (Las Araucarias) and Antillanca before crossing the border. Once in Argentina, the pretty little lakeside town of St Martin de los Andes is close to a ski resort called Chapelco, well worth a visit — as is Cerro Bayo, a little further on, some 50 miles before you reach San Carlos de Bariloche way down on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi in the Argentine lake district. Bariloche, or Gran Catedral to give the ski resort its official name, is the most European of the Argentine resorts. If you decide to cross into Argentina via Portillo, to the north, you can (eventually) get to Bariloche that way too, but it’s a fearsomely long drive. One advantage of doing so is that you can head to the distant Argentine resort of Las Leñas, revered as the Chamonix of the southern hemisphere, with its phenomenal off-piste opportunities. However, if you prefer more conventional skiing with plenty of cruising, mesmerising scenery and grandstand lake views, Bariloche will not disappoint. Las Leñas, on the other hand — not far from the spot where a plane-load of Uruguayan rugby players crashed in 1972, inspiring the book ‘Alive!’ and a subsequent film — is not really near anywhere, although there is a small airport at Malargue. Sir Arnold Lunn, the British ski pioneer, once famously said: “An Englishman is at home in the Alps, but an intruder in the Andes.”

He didn’t mean an aggressive visitor — more one from another world. The magnificently remote Andes are indeed almost other-worldly compared with the Alps. I have never met anyone who has skied there who didn’t return to Europe enchanted, intoxicated, exhilarated — and raring to return. And if you’re worried about any lingering ill-feeling over the 1982 Falklands War, don’t be. In five visits to Argentina I have found the locals almost universally warm and friendly. And that goes for Chile too. Meanwhile the snow is on its way, the beat of the tango is there to inspire you and the condors are already soaring high, ready to watch you enjoy the slopes way beneath them. AW Arnie Wilson travelled to Chile and Argentina as a guest of Journey Latin America (020 8622 8444; journeylatinamerica.co.uk) which offers “ski and desert” packages combining the Atacama Desert with a week’s skiing in Valle Nevado, the closest ski area to Santiago. Tailor-made ski trips to other resorts can also be arranged.

Bariloche: The truth behind the beauty

The disturbing secret of Argentina’s prettiest resort There are almost 50 ski areas, both large and small, in Argentina and Chile, but the one that is easiest to fall in love with is Bariloche, in northern Patagonia. From the pistes, there are stunning views across the splendid lake Nahuel Huapi, while on the other side are jagged peaks resembling cathedral spires. Bariloche is the Andean resort most resembling a resort in the Alps, with its 39 lifts and 65 miles of groomed slopes at a bearable altitude of 1030m to 2180m, and it has an extensive base village. Sadly the European connection doesn’t end there. So many Nazis fled here after the War that it is even rumoured Hitler escaped to Bariloche. While this is fanciful, there is no doubt that Argentina

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

gave sanctuary to Nazis on the run and they gravitated to the well-established German community here. Adolf Eichmann and Josef Mengele, lived for a time in Bariloche. Mengele, the ‘Doctor of Death’ in Auschwitz, enjoyed skiing. Erich Priebke, the SS officer who only died in October last year aged 99 while standing trial for the murder of 335 Italian civilians, certainly did — he even opened a butcher’s shop here and taught at the German school. His son Jorge, 75, still lives in Bariloche and has told reporters: “I am not ashamed of my father. He was only following orders.” AW

Photo: Hector Tomlinson

flying by the seat of her pants

Rosie Barcroft talks to adventurer and mountaineer Squash Falconer about some of her more peculiar achievements

Photo: Flo Tomlinson

Quite simply, Squash Falconer brings out the best in people. We sit opposite each other in a bar in Shoreditch, East London. Outside, the rain is hammering down and the sky merges into the grey streets. And yet we are both laughing about her knickers philosophy. “It’s a load of pants… literally!” she says. “But basically, I believe if your knickers are right, everything goes right.” I couldn’t agree more. I looked at Squash’s website before travelling to Iceland last year and consequently turned up with 10 pairs of pants (for the 10 days of camping), fluffy socks and my favourite shampoo and toothpaste. I’m sure some people would frown at such luxuries and say that’s not what camping’s about, but for me, Squash’s tip made my time in Iceland even better. Born in 1981, Squash grew up on a farm in Derbyshire. The name Squash came from her sister who was unable to pronounce her given name, Louise. ‘Ease’ became peas, then squashy peas and finally Squash — a name that stuck. “Louise just seems foreign to me now,” she says. From a young age, Squash could be found leaping from trees and swinging out of the barn. “I didn’t know what fear was until I was attacked by a cockerel when I was three,” she says. Squash has been scared of birds ever since. “My plan was always going to be a simple one,” she continues. “I was going to leave school and become a farmer. But this didn’t happen. Instead a

teacher encouraged me to apply myself — so I did. GCSEs, A-Levels and an 18th birthday later and I found myself in the French Alps with a view of Mont Blanc from my bedroom window. My passion for mountain climbing was sparked.” In 2004, Squash climbed her first peak, Aconcagua in Argentina. At 6,960 metres, it’s the highest mountain in the western hemisphere. “It seemed perfectly reasonable that lack of experience could be made up for by the right team, good fitness and a massive dose of the right mental attitude,” she says. Aconcagua led to Cho Oyu, in Nepal, in 2008. “I took my bum board up there, and became the world’s highest boarder ever,” she says. Squash was on a roll. In 2009 she decided to combine a few more of her favourite hobbies into one trip. She says: “I hatched a plan to ride a motorbike to the south of France, climb Mont Blanc and paraglide from the

what is bum boarding? Bum boarding is a sport we Brits can claim to excel at, with Squash Falconer holding the record as the world’s highest bum boarder. Bum boarding is where you slide down the snow on a plastic seat moulded to the shape of your bum with a handle at the front. You use your heels to steer and if you pick the right hill (smooth, quite steep) you can gain a lot of speed. Balance is also key for a steady and hopefully controlled descent. Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

summit. However, I needed support. So I approached the BBC saying BMW were supporting me, and then I spoke to BMW and told them I had backing from the BBC. Amazingly it worked and I learnt creative blagging will get you everywhere. When I flew off the top I was planning to land in Italy and buy a pizza for lunch. As it happened I landed 22 minutes later in France, so I had fondue. The icing on the cake for the trip was discovering I was the first British woman to paraglide from the top of Mont Blanc.” Ever since her Mont Blanc trip, Squash has been in love with the region, particularly the Italian side of the mountain, Aosta. “Aosta offers everything — perfectly accessible mountains, really good climbing, huts and peaks for all abilities. It’s beautiful and the food is great too,” she says. In 2011 Squash reached the top of Mount Everest with her paraglider by her side. The plan was to try and fly from 8,850m, but the conditions weren’t right. “There were strong winds and zero visibility,” says Squash. “There was no way I would be able to soar off, but it didn’t matter. I was delighted to have made the summit.” The same year, Squash cycled the 1024 miles from Land’s End to John O’Groats in nine days. She climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in 2013 and, with a team, raised £400,000 for charities in Tanzania. Most recently, she completed a world record 3,074 mile journey around Western Europe on an ElliptiGO, a cross trainer with wheels, supporting Coppafeel, a charity that encourages women to check their breasts for lumps that could be cancerous. “On the first day a cyclist called Joe rode alongside us and asked ‘what is that?’. I explained

I approached the BBC saying BMW were supporting me, and then I spoke to BMW and told them I had backing from THE BBC. Amazingly it worked and I learnT creative blagging will get you everywhere

Photo: Flo Tomlinson

It seemed perfectly reasonable that lack of experience could be made up for by the right team, good fitness and a massive dose of the right mental attitude Squash has also met wildlife presenter Steve Backshall and Graham Bell, among others, adding: “Everyone’s so passionate about what they do. Their energy is very contagious.” More recently, she has been filming an adventure travel television series in South America. Squash rode over 3,000 miles on her BMW 800 GS Adventure through Argentina, Chile and Peru before flying on to Colombia and Brazil to film the final episodes. When Squash and I part ways later that afternoon, she leaves me with a lasting message. “There’s always a road to anywhere you want to go, or to something you want to do. You just need to find it and go for it.” If anyone’s inspired me — it’s her. RB squashfalconer.com

Photo: Kamil Tamiola

what it was and what we were doing and the next thing I knew he offered me a place to stay for the night – after ringing up his wife and two daughters to check it was okay to bring strangers into the house! Leaving the next morning I complained about not having a strap for my sunglasses. Joe disappeared into the house and came out with a shoelace — it did the job perfectly. That’s one of the many things that I love about travelling, it reaffirms my belief that people are good. I visited Joe as soon as the trip was over to return the shoelace, but he said I could keep it.” It’s no wonder Squash has come across a variety of people after travelling so extensively. “I met Ranulph Fiennes a while ago,” she says. “He has such a wonderful accent and certainly speaks the Queen’s English. The first thing he said to me was ‘call me Ran’. He was very down to earth. He’s an inspirational guy although I’m not sure I would be able to cut my fingers off. Apparently he chopped them off with a fretsaw in his garden shed after suffering severe frostbite while his wife was cooking dinner.”

Above Made it! Falconer on the summit of Mount Everest Far Left ElliptiGO: Powering on for charity Left On the road again

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Products

(and nights) With warmer weather and brighter days on the horizon, outdoor activities seem more appealing. Whether it’s cycling, mountain biking, walking or climbing, Gabriella Le Breton has tried and tested a number of products that will make your time even more enjoyable. From UV protective trousers that combat the sun (especially good for children), to top-ofthe-range tents for the ultimate camping experience — nature is beckoning. And because the weather is never straightforward we’ve thrown in a waterproof jacket, just for good measure

Recovery Compression £95 Tights

UV protective trousers from £80

Wearing compression tights after sporting endeavours of any kind are thought to significantly help your recovery by heightening oxygen delivery, improving blood circulation, and removing blood lactates, which ensures faster muscle repair. Specialist producer 2XU offers a range of men’s and women’s tights, leg and arm cuffs in the PWX collection, aimed at serious amateur athletes keen to improve their performance. They will work equally well after a day’s skiing, biking or hiking, so if you want to feel as fresh as a daisy the morning after a big day, bag yourself some tights. 2xushop.co.uk

If you’re likely to be outdoors for long periods of time this summer, get yourself a pair of UV protective trousers. The American clothing specialist Rohan first started testing fabrics for UV penetration over 15 years ago and now offers a wide range of products from T-shirts and shorts to trousers and scarves that come complete with Ultraviolet Protection Factors of 20+ and 40+. The men’s Ether trousers (£88) are water-resistant and ultra lightweight at just 200g while the women’s Trailblazer trousers (£80) are great, hard-wearing all-rounders. rohan.co.uk

Down Vest

£150

A down vest is the ultimate lightweight and insulating mid-layer. The Helly Hansen Verglas vest ticks all the boxes. Weighing in at under 300 grams, it features a slim-fitting, non-bulky design complete with neat zipped pockets and a stretch material side panel for freedom of movement. The vest’s 700+ fill down is protected by water repellent Pertex microlight ripstop fabric making this a wardrobe staple for spring and summer pursuits. hellyhansen.co.uk

Day Pack

£70

A comfortable, lightweight, welldesigned day pack is a crucial piece of kit for every outdoor enthusiast. The Osprey Stratos 24-litre back pack ticks all the boxes. The trampoline mesh style back system is comfy and ensures good ventilation; the hip belt is wide and solid; your gear stays neatly organised with the help of a spacious main compartment and several zipped pockets; there’s an integrated hydration sleeve and raincover; the Stow-on-the-Go system enables you to slip trekking poles through two elasticated loops for those moments when you need both hands; and a sleeping bag can be attached to the removable external straps. ospreyeurope.com

Elevation June 2014 • skiclub.co.uk

Boots

£155

Buying a pair of well fitting, waterproof, breathable and resilient boots might just be the best investment you can make for an active summer. First, establish what you’ll be using them for (three-season activities like hiking, scrambling and via ferrata or four-season outings, which will take you through snow and ice). Then seek expert advice and try on plenty of different brands. The Salomon Quest 4D GTX is a superb example of a threeseason boot, being light, waterproof, comfortable and offering good traction in mud and light snow. ellisbrigham.com

GPS

£450

Whether you’re exploring on foot, bike, skis or a snowboard, a GPS navigation system will invariably come in handy and could prove to be invaluable. The Satmap Active 12 is a reliable, robust, easy to use piece of kit with a 3.5 inch high-resolution HVGA screen, good battery life, decent PC/ Mac compatibility and a barometric altimeter. Probably the best of the OS mapping-compatible devices available, the Satmap Active 12 enables users to download several maps at the scale most suitable for them, such as 1:25,000 scale for accurate walking and bike route planning and 1:50,000 scale for roads and country lanes. satmap.co.uk

Penknife £34.99

from

If you spend any time in the great outdoors, the chances are that you will already appreciate the beauty and indispensability of a good penknife or multitool. The classic Victorinox Huntsman penknife offers 12 functions, covering the basics for common outdoor pursuits, including a large and small blade, wood saw, corkscrew, can opener and scissors. If you’re looking for something more meaty, go for the Swiss Champ (£65.99), which comes complete with 33 functions, adding more adventurous items such as a magnifying glass, pliers, screwdrivers, fish scaler, chisel and pressurised ballpoint pen to the mix. swissarmy365.co.uk

Tent

Helmets for skiing from £115 from £58 biking While recent high-profile ski incidents have highlighted the value of wearing a helmet on the ski slopes, the use of helmets by recreational cyclists is no less important. The popular Swedish brand POC has gathered world-leading neurologists, back specialists, experts in sports medicine and materials, and professional athletes to investigate the increasing physical risks of snowsports and cycling, and develop head gear to minimise damage upon impact. The resulting technology is complex (think Multi-directional Impact Protection System (MIPS), anti-rotational violence technology and internal Coolbest padding) but the resulting helmets are light, comfy, cool and might just save your life. pocsports.com

£490

Unfortunately for the frugal outdoor enthusiast, more money generally does buy you better kit. This is particularly the case with the Mountain Equipment Dragonfly 2XT tent, which costs significantly more than many other tents of a similar size and weight but delivers exceptional performance. It boasts a large entrance area, ideal for removing wet kit before you access the inner tent, with entry to both areas offset to minimise the chance of water coming in. Overall, the tent is stable, robust, waterresistant and offers ample room to manoeuvre. mountain-equipment.co.uk

Waterproof jacket

£180

Spending money on a technical, lightweight waterproof should provide you with a lasting item of clothing capable of carrying you from the spring ski slopes to the hiking and biking trails of the Great British outdoors. The seam-sealed North Face DIAD jacket (available in men’s and women’s specific styles) features a streamlined fit, adjustable hood with laminated brim, underarm vents, and HyVent polyurethane coating for exceptional waterproof protection, moisture permeability and durability. Just in case you were wondering, DIAD stands for Done In A Day. thenorthface.co.uk

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DaTes for your diary events June 14

Ski Club Summer Party

Hurlingham Club, London Join the Ski Club to celebrate summer with a three-course meal and entertainment. For more information: tinyurl.com/mxmyqfc

July 2-6

Henley Royal Regatta 50

Henley-on-Thames, Oxfordshire Established in 1839, the regatta lasts for five days over the first weekend in July. Races are head-to-head, knock-out competitions, raced over a course of one mile. For more information: hrr.co.uk

July 5-7

Tour de France starts in Yorkshire

The most famous cycle race in the world is coming to Britain. The Tour de France traditionally starts outside France, and this year, on July 5, stage one runs from Leeds to Harrogate. The next day stage two goes from York to Sheffield and stage three runs from Cambridge to London. For more information: letour.com

July 23 -August 3

Commonwealth Games

Various venues, Glasgow For 12 days, starting on July 23, the city of Glasgow will be hosting the 2014 Commonwealth Games. There are 17 sports to watch and tickets start at ÂŁ15. For more information: glasgow2014.com

September 23-28

Ryder Cup

Gleneagles, Perthshire The Ryder Cup will take place at Gleneagles, Scotland, for the first time. Spectators can also sign up to golf technique courses while watching how itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done. For more information: rydercup.com

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