| SUMMER 2017
FEATURES
DISCOVER
NEWS
Mountain biking in Sainte Foy, hiking the Haute Route and more
Unique adventures, books and tracks, plus modern day explorers
The latest from the outdoor world, from skiing to camping
the summer way
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EDITOR’S NOTE EDITOR Harriet Johnston harriet.johnston@skiclub.co.uk
Photo: Mirae Campbell
EDITOR IN CHIEF Colin Nicholson colin.nicholson@skiclub.co.uk ART DIRECTOR Amanda Barks amanda.barks@skiclub.co.uk
I
didn’t go on holiday abroad last year. Instead of settling down on a beach with a book and some girlfriends, or exploring faraway cities and their nightlife, I took myself off to Scotland. Whether it was bagging my first two Munros in a day, or hiking my way along the coast of Fife, I discovered a whole new dimension to the country in the summer; a country I had grown to know and love throughout the winter. That’s why Elevation has been such a pet project of mine — not just to highlight the beauty of spending time in the mountains in the summer, wind beating on your face, sun gently tanning your cheeks — but seeing landscapes you know and love in a whole new light. There are plenty of adventures to be had, in the UK and beyond, from solo running on the Isle of Skye, see page 10, to trekking through the Jungfrau, on page 42. But, of course, there is a beauty with beaches. Ben Clatworthy found a luxury avenue into cycling on his Croatia trip with a difference, page 30, while Alf Alderson gives us an inside scoop on the mountain biking scene of Sainte Foy, page 18. Tempting you to ditch the 9-5? You’re not the only one. On page 45, we look to three very different individuals who’ve done exactly that, from snowboarding icon Katie Ormerod to Nick Parks, who went from teacher to mountain guide extraordinaire. If you’re not ready to throw in the towel, settle down with a book at home or pop on our recommended podcasts for the commute, on page 44, and don’t forget that adventure is out there…
Harriet Johnston Elevation Editor
MEDIA SALES Madison Bell madisonbell.com jack.daly@madisonbell.com 020 7389 0859 OVERSEAS MEDIA SALES Martina Diez-Routh martina.diez-routh@skiclub.co.uk +44 (0) 7508 382 781 PUBLISHER Ski Club of Great Britain London SW19 5SB skiclub.co.uk | 020 8410 2000 DISTRIBUTION Jellyfish Print Solutions © Ski Club of Great Britain 2017 ISSN 1369-8826 Ski+board is printed by Precision Colour Printing, Telford TF7 4QQ All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the publisher. All prices are based on information available at the time of going to press. Opinions expressed in Ski+board are not necessarily those of the Ski Club of Great Britain, nor does the publisher accept responsibility for advertising content.
THE TEAM
HARRIET
AMANDA Cover photo: Philippe Royer OT Sainte Foy
After Harriet beat her elder sister in a ski race in Niederau aged five, skiing has taken a firm place in her heart. She’s happiest when cruising tree runs, dancing on tables in La Folie Douce or settling down for a hot chocolate and a waffle on a blizzardy day. During the summer months she can be found taking on new challenges, like kayaking in Slovenia or hiking the West Highland Way for charity.
Passionate about extreme sports but somewhat of a latecomer to the snowboarding game, Amanda’s board first touched snow at Castleford snow centre. She became quite the regular at rail jams, before heading out to visit her partner in Revelstoke, Canada. The resort is forever in her heart but for now, she’s satisfied with creating beautiful magazines for the Ski Club.
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
FEATURED COUNTRIES IN THIS ISSUE INCLUDE...
CONTENTS 8
WANDERINGS
28 IMMENSE ICELAND
From tropical volcanoes to the Scottish Highlands, these photographs will transport you to the world of travel
Head North and leave the crowds behind — if you seek solace and incredible remote skiing, it’s all about Iceland
12 NEWS
40 ADVENTURE GUIDE
Catch up on the latest news, including camping law confusion, Armada’s sale plus changes to roaming charges
Go hiking on the Isle of Skye, trek in the shadow of the Jungfrau and take to the slopes to ski in New Zealand’s epic winter
14 SKI CLUB NEWS
44 BOOKS AND TRACKS
A request for new presidential nominations, tips on applying for the Green Award and the latest on the website upgrade
Bury yourself in the books or tune into our recommended podcasts with stories from the trail
16 WEB AND VIDEO
45 DISCOVER PEOPLE
The digital team take you through the best online content to check out to help you make the most of your trips away
From Olympic athletes to mountain guides to daily vloggers, the people who’ve ditched the day job for adventure
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Photo: Freedom treks
Photo: Philippe Royer OT Sainte Foy
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Photo: Daniele Lira
Photo: Ben Tibbetts
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FEATURES 18 TIMELESS TRAILS
30 CYCLING BY BOAT
The Tarentaise valley offers lesser-known routes for the mountain biker looking for an extra special challenge which will withstand the tests of time. For anyone hoping to explore off the beaten track in France, Alf Alderson, along with his trusty four legged friend, navigates the area the old school way — without a lift, and with a lot of mud, sweat and gears.
Getting into the rhythm of cycling can be tricky, but for a genteel way of joining the pedal bigrade, how about taking to the high seas on a luxury yacht? Ben Clatworthy dips his toe out of his comfort zone as he cycles and sails his way along the Adriatic coast, and discovers there’s more to the average pedal pusher than meets the eye.
24 THE HIGHS AND LOWS OF THE HAUTE ROUTE
36 THE NATURE OF MUSIC
When experienced walker and climber Rona Hodgson set foot on the Haute Route, little did she know what was in store. From emergency shelters to ice axes, she joined an intrepid group of explorers to hike the route. Fighting the elements, plus her own fitness and will power, Rona reveals the true peaks and troughs of the iconic trek.
The call of the mountains is strong for us all, but what if it was more like a song? Imagine turning a corner on a hike to be greeted by the strains of an orchestra. Colin Nicholson takes note of the Sounds of the Dolomites festival, before swallowing his nerves to battle his way across the mountains in light of the First World War.
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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wanderings
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LOCATION Mount Yasur, Vanuatu RIDERS Sam Smoothy, Victor de Le Rue, Xavier de Le Rue
Describing it as "the ultimate fish out of water situation", the riders stayed with locals on Vanuatu, an island in the South Pacific Ocean, to ride the live volcano, Mount Yasur. Sam explained; "the ground was shaking... my skis were totally ruined, ground down to the core... it was pretty biblical." To watch a short film of the trip, visit bit.ly/2lXy14c
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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LOCATION The Inaccessible Pinnacle, Isle of Skye RUNNER AND PHOTOGRAPHER
Hamish Frost Scottish photographer Hamish snapped this rather unusual selfie as he was solo running from the Inaccessible Pinnacle at the summit of Sgurr Dearg. He used a remote on the camera to pap himself making his way back down to Glenbrittle. To find out more about the Isle of Skye, turn to page 41.
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wanderings elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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Charging points will cover the Gotthard Pass
Aimee Fuller, Eddie the Eagle and Graham Bell with the children from Kingsley School at Hemel Hempstead
School children try skiing for free at British snow centres
Harriet Johnston
Skiing was on offer in April to thousands of school children for as little as £1 or free. Over two thousand children tried out skiing and snowboarding for the first time as part of the second National Schools Snowsport Week. The week, which took place between April 24 and 30, was backed
by Eddie ‘The Eagle’ Edwards, Dave Ryding, Aimee Fuller and Graham Bell. 25 slopes across England were offering schools and school-aged children ski and snowboard taster sessions, some, like Silksworth in Sunderland, for as little as £1 or for free, in Tamworth and Norfolk.
Roaming charges abolished
Roaming charges will remain in both Andorra and Switzerland
From June 15, travellers responding to the call of the wild will be spared the constant anxiety of racking up big phone bills in the process. This is because roaming charges have been abolished in the 31 countries of the European Economic Area, which includes the 28 European Union countries, plus Norway, Iceland and Liechtenstein. Calls and texts to or from another EEA country and data transfer will all be treated in the same way as mobile phone usage in the UK, with minutes and megabytes deducted from the user’s monthly allowance. However, in Switzerland and Andorra, which are not members of the EEA, charges will still apply. Visitors to the French Alps travelling via Geneva airport should avoid connecting to a Swiss network if they are planning to use their phone on arrival, and instead try to connect to a French one. The ban on roaming charges within the EEA runs until June 30, 2022, but it is not yet known how British users will be affected after the UK’s deadline to leave the European Union, at midnight on March 19, 2019.
Switzerland is charging on For travellers wishing for more freedom without sullying Swiss valleys with exhaust fumes, the country has equipped the length of its so-called Grand Tour with charging stations for electric vehicles. From this summer drivers can do the 1,000-mile circuit, which takes in such highlights as the St Gotthard Pass and the vineyards around Montreux, in a Tesla Model S or BMW i3 or i8, available from hire firms Sixt and Europcar. For more information, see myswitzerland. com/en-gb/grand-tour-of-switzerland
Confusion over wild camping law The ban on wild camping around the shores of Loch Lomond has created widespread confusion, a Scottish mountaineering group has claimed. Wild camping is generally banned in England and Wales, with the exception of large swathes of Dartmoor. But the Scottish Land Reform Act of 2003 guaranteed widespread rights. A bylaw introduced in March allowed Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park to demand campers buy permits for stays between March and September. The park covers 1,865 square kilometres, and the £3 permits are required for several zones to attempt to stop visitors fly tipping and to protect waterside areas. However a spokesman for Mountaineering Scotland said: “There seems to have been confusion over what the bylaws mean and how far the zones extend. Our advice to members is to abide by the bylaws but we continue to call for their removal.”
Photo: swiss-image.ch/ markus buehle
Photo: Matt Alexander/ PA Wire
NEWS
N EWS
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Shoe brands slip up on frozen surfaces Nine out of ten boots fail a slip test, according to data released in March. The research, carried out for the Toronto Rehabilitation Institute, found that 89 of 98 models received a zero out of three rating for slip resistance. The tests, funded by the Ontario Ministry of Labour, were performed in a lab measuring five metres by five metres that can be tilted to an angle of 25 degrees, with a floor made of ice. The nine models that achieved one star out of three include Caterpillar’s Stiction Hiker Ice+ and Sperry’s Men’s Cold Bay Sport Ice+ and Sperry Women’s Powder Valley Polar Ice Grip Boot. The complete results can be seen at ratemytreads.com
Known as one of the first independent skiing brands, Armada helped develop rocker skis
Independent brand Armada is snapped up by Amer Sports Harriet Johnston
Only one in ten boots managed to pass the slip test
Armada has been brought by Finland based Amer Sports Corporation, joining Salomon, Arc’teryx and Atomic under the Finnish company’s winter sports umbrella. The transaction is valued at approximately $4.1 million. Armada was founded by skiers JP Auclair, Tanner Hall, JF Cusson, Julien Regnier and Boyd Easley as well as photographer Chris O’Connell in 2002 as a brand ‘by athletes, for athletes’. Known as one of skiing’s first independent, athlete owned and operated brands, Armada developed pioneering skis like the reversecamber powder ski called the ARG and the JJ, a rocker-camber-rocker all-mountain powder ski. In 2015, the headquarters relocated from Costa Mesa in California to Park City, Utah. The acquisition
Utah records no avalanche deaths in winter 2016-17
Gstaad to hold an inaugural vintage cycling festival in old school gear in August
No avalanche fatalities were recorded in Utah in 2016-17. It’s the first winter in 26 years — the state averages four avalanche deaths per winter. It comes despite huge snowfalls in the area. “The good news is that technology is working in our advantage and people are getting information,” says Craig Gordon, a forecaster with the Utah Avalanche Center. “The beauty is all of this is working and that has been a huge step in the right direction.”
Cyclists will be dusting off their boneshakers in time for the first Swiss Vintage Cycling Festival in Gstaad on August 26 and 27. Organisers will permit bikes dating from 1986 or earlier to be ridden on two tours in the Swiss resort. The easy tour consists of four loops of about 15km each. For more determined contestants, the hard tour promises 103km with 2,400m of elevation on narrow mountain roads “full of holes, gravel and cowpats”. Trophies will also be awarded for the oldest, most original and best racing bikes. Entrants are expected to come For more news, head to in vintage gear, with more trophies for outfits. See bergkoenig.weebly.com
Photo: Melody Sky
Photo: JJ Balfour Riley
Colin Nicholson
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
includes the Armada brand, branded products, intellectual property, and distribution rights, but Armada will continue to operate independently under the Amer umbrella. While the ski company’s design and engineering has always been inhouse, serial manufacturing was first outsourced to Amer factories about 12 years ago. Many of Armada’s best-selling models, including the Invictus series, have been produced in the highly regarded Atomic factory. Amer was established in 1950 as a tobacco manufacturer and distributor, but formed a sports division in 1986 after acquiring a majority stake in a golf equipment company. It picked up its first ski brand, Atomic, in 1994.
skiclub.co.uk
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Photo: Mountain Tracks
SKI CLUB NEWS
The Val d’Isère group is one of the most active
Facebook groups to stay
Mountain Tracks offers UK trips
Having proven popular over winter, the Ski Club’s Facebook groups will remain open over summer for members to share memories or keep in touch. At the height of the season, over 2,400 had joined the groups — many members were using them as a way of finding others to ski with, but there were also posts from members showing what a day with a Leader is like or providing the weather and snow conditions in resort. There are groups for all Leader and Instructor-led Guiding resorts, plus a few select others which are popular with Ski Club members. Groups are visible by searching ‘Ski Club of Great Britain’ and your chosen resort name on Facebook.
Mountain Tracks is expanding its summer offering to include a series of UK-based weekends. The new Alpine Skills weekends in North Wales aim to provide an introduction to mountaineering for those keen to learn more about the alpine environment. The courses are ideal for enthusiastic hikers, hill walkers and outdoorsy families interested in learning new scrambling or climbing skills and looking to progress to trekking and mountaineering trips. The entry-level course requires no previous climbing experience, although a basic level of fitness and a head for heights is helpful.
Mountain Tracks holidays include the Haute Route, which Rona Hodgson writes about on page 24
Vicky Norman
Mountain Tracks works with a hub of guides, the majority of whom hold the prestigious IFMGA Mountain Guides qualification and are members of the British Mountain Guides. Jonny Cassidy, General Manager at Ski Club Freshtracks and Mountain Tracks, said: “We’re really excited to expand the summer offering. The series will be a great option for outdoorsy team building or families with teenagers keen to learn something new together.” Courses will run throughout the summer, and independent dates can be arranged for groups of three or more. More information can be found at mountaintracks.co.uk
The new www.skiclub.co.uk due in early summer The Ski Club’s website is getting a brand new look and redesign to continue to provide skiers and snowboarders with the most up-to-date and accurate advice, news, resort guides and snow conditions. All content will be updated and wrapped up in a much more attractive
and usable format with more engaging images and videos. With fully responsive design, the website will be accessible from every device wherever you are, on the slopes or at home. The new website is due to be launched in early summer — so watch this space.
Finding information about club services (like Leaders) should be easier on the new website
The search continues for a new premises for the Ski Club after the White House sale
The search is still on for a new base for the Ski Club. A committee of staff have been reviewing properties to rent around the South West London area including Wimbledon, Putney, Clapham. At the same time, the Club’s council and staff are also looking at possible locations for regular member meet-ups.
The current club house, The White House, in Wimbledon, was sold to Caligula, a property investment firm, for £3,875,000 in December. The Club has negotiated a two-year leaseback deal to stay at the White House as it seeks new premises in the area. It can end the lease at any time after nine months.
Photo: Tom Ewbank
The search continues for new Ski Club premises
SKI C LU B NEW S
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Who’ll be next for president?
Photo: Vannessa Fry
Harriet Johnston
Leaders continue to operate outside of France — more details can be found at skiclub.co.uk
Ski Club remains dedicated to the Leader case, following Le Ski result Daniel Loots The Ski Club of Great Britain are still dedicated to fighting for its leading service, after the Supreme Court in Paris upheld the decision of a lower court that the ski guiding service offered by Le Ski was illegal, in April. Ski Club Leaders are volunteer club members who have given their time to show others around the resorts. The Leaders have taken training in mountain safety, including avalanche awareness and rescue, and extensive first aid training. Leaders are not paid for providing this service but are given accommodation, lift pass and travel expenses. Tour operator hosting was usually run by staff members who were expected to provide the service as part of their employment. In both cases there is no ski instruction taking place and guests must be of a certain level to join the groups. The aim is to show skiers around the resort. The Ski Club Leader program was put on hold in France after a Leader was
stopped by police on the slopes of Val d’Isère in 2013 for leading a group of fellow recreational skiers. He was fined €10,000 with a further €5,000 in suspended sentence. The French ski school E.S.F. who supported the prosecution were awarded €1 in symbolic damages. Frank McCusker, the Chief Executive of the Ski Club said: “Our case is still in progress and we will keep up the fight. In the meantime, our 29,000 members can enjoy the Leader service in other countries, or take up our Instructor led guiding service in French resorts.” The Ski Club’s leader service is still available in other countries such as Austria, Switzerland, Italy and Andorra in Europe and in North America. In France the club have subsidised an Instructor led guiding service with partners Evolution 2 ski school. For more background or updates on the Ski Club case or to learn more about the Ski Club’s Leader service, please visit skiclub.co.uk
Help skiing go greener and receive up to £1,000 as part of the Inspire Awards Members could be awarded up to £1,000 for their action in making snowsports more environmentally friendly and sustainable. The Members Green Award is open to all Ski Club members who are involved in mountain-based environmental projects. Funding for the Green Award comes from membership subscriptions, and is just one of the ways the Club supports the snowsports community. To apply for the Members Green Award, or for more information on other Inspire Awards, head to skiclub.co.uk
Nominations for a new Ski Club president are open ahead of Frank Gardner departure in November, having served six years as president. Suggestions are welcome from members with the council voting on a shortlist in the summer. The president of the club is normally someone with a connection to snowsports and an interest in getting more involved in the sport. Previous presidents include Robert Swan, famed for walking to both North and South Pole, who served from 2005 to 2010, and Sally Cartwright OBE who had a lengthy career in the publishing industry, and served between 2003 to 2005. Current president Frank Gardner is the BBC’s award-winning security correspondent. He started downhill skiing at 23 while in the British Army. After he was shot and left for dead by terrorists in Saudi Arabia, he learnt to ski in a sitski. Send nominations for the incoming president to info@skiclub.co.uk
Current president Frank Gardner learned to sitski after years of alpine experience
Want more Ski Club news? Keep up to date at: @TheSkiClub
/theskiclub
skiclub.co.uk Ski Club of Great Britain, The White House, 57-63 Church Road, Wimbledon Village, London SW19 5SB
elevation ~ summer 2017~ skiclub.co.uk
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ONLINE
BSS racers and riders just keep getting better
University students throw shapes at the Progression Session Rail Jam in Alpe d’Huez in April
Students show off at rail jam Joe Troman, Digital Content Editor
The student scene is epitomised at Above and Below, when university snowsport clubs head over the channel to Alpe d’Huez for a week in March. 1,800 students descend on the resort, many to compete in freestyle and alpine disciplines, fighting it out to win valuable BUCS points to boost their university’s standings. Others take the time to soak up the sun and watch the competition. If there’s one week that captures the essence of student snowsports it is this one, and Line-S — the Ski Club’s student brand — was there to support it. The Line-S team saw the week out in
style by hosting the Progression Session Rail Jam with Jibworx, an extreme sport events company. The afternoon saw riders throwing down on a mix of jump and rail features hoping to impress the judges and take home the title. And what afternoon in the mountains would be complete without a little bit of après? We couldn’t resist throwing the biggest party of the week afterwards for the riders and spectators to show off their best dance moves. Head to line-s.co.uk for a behind-thescenes look, exclusive pictures, videos and much more...
Photo: Vanessa Fry
What a season it has been for British Ski and Snowboard. Some might say that more silverware has returned home than ever before. From X-Games Big Air gold to World Cup Slalom silver, Team BSS have been winning big on the world stage. The digital team has been there every step along the way, covering international and domestic competitions across all disciplines. With next season being an Olympic one, it seems as though the athletes are all peaking at the right time, who knows what they can accomplish next year in Pyeongchang? Keep up with the competition on the ‘Racers and Riders’ news section on our website skiclub.co.uk
Photo: Jonny Cass
Success for BSS
While our content team keep up to date with all the latest news on the website, it sometimes feels like there is much more to the story than can be told. Our blog, skiclubgb.wordpress.com, features stories from staff, guest writers and Ski Club members. Centred around personal experiences,
the individual style of each article gives the reader a first-hand account of each experience. Blogs this year have ranged from James Mitchel’s account of his Off-Piste trip to Gulmarg in India to Fiona Jane Best’s voice of experience when giving tips on the dos and don’ts of taking your family skiing.
Photo: Fiona Best
See what happens behind the scenes on our blog
Over on the blog, Fiona lets you know the secrets to taking your family skiing
GoPro filming with our top tips for the Hero 5
Our digital team chat through the different features of the GoPro Hero 5
GoPro cameras have become a part of ski culture — you can’t be in a lift line without one staring at you from the top of a punter’s helmet. We’ve made a new GoPro tips video to help you get the most out of it. The Hero 5 black is quite different to its predecessor — two of my favourite features include its waterproof nature and the handy LCD touch screen. This is not only a hands on tutorial,
but it’s also packed full of shortcuts and secrets that not many people know about, like switching a few settings to save battery life, demonstrating the supporting mobile apps and how to swap the lens cap if it is ever damaged.
To find out more visit
skiclub.co.uk
Photo: Jonny Cass
Jonny Cass, Video Producer
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SOCIAL WHAT’S NEW ON FACEBOOK AND INSTAGRAM Digital Content Editor Joe Troman reflects on some of his favourite snaps from the ski season
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A student competitor at Above and Below, Alpe d’Huez Ski Club Video Producer, Jonny Cass Ski Club Chief Executive Frank McCusker presents the Ski Club Cup at the Delancey British Alpine Championships, Tignes Jonny Cass Freshtracks Icelandic Adventure (read more on page 28) Bruce Goodlad The digital team interviewing Dave Ryding at the Delancey British Alpine Championships, Tignes Jonny Cass Whistler Ryan Davison Crisp Members catching a cheeky lift up the hill
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Hundreds of summer activities covered as standard, including cycling and mountain biking (up to 1,000m), scuba diving (up to 30m), trekking (up to 2,000m), sailing and yachting (up to 12 nautical miles from the coast), wind-surfing and white-water canoeing. All policies include Fogg Medi-card as standard, to get you off the mountain with no up-front costs, covering summer activities as well as skiing. Single trip cover up to the age of 85 (75 for multi-trip). Children FREE up to the age of 18 on all family policies (or under 24 if you have Ski Club Platinum membership). Off piste skiing and boarding, with or without a guide. Heli skiing, glacier skiing, backcountry skiing and ski touring all covered as standard.
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Photo: Philippe Royer OT Sainte Foy
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Mountain biking the 'old school' way is still possible — it just requires throwing yourself off, and often up, the beaten track Words by Alf Alderson
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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“T
his is pretty old school,” gasps Nick as we slog uphill on our mountain bikes from the top station of the Grand Plan chairlift in Sainte Foy. Indeed it is — but I think there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that. In fact there’s something quite refreshing about this little Tarentaise resort’s decision to forego the networks of ski-lift accessed single tracks that are so much a part of summer at neighbouring destinations such as Les Arcs, Tignes and Val d’Isère. This decision has largely been forced on Sainte Foy, since the money just isn’t there to compete with the big resorts up and down the valley, and consequently the liftaccessed biking here consists of what you can get to from the top of the Grand Plan. That’s not to say there isn’t some truly wonderful single track riding around Sainte Foy and I’ll come to that in a moment. But for now, if you’re old enough, think back to those halcyon days of your mountain biking youth when you had to earn your turns. It’s like ski touring — the physical exertion of hiking up makes the experience of throwing yourself down a hill all the more rewarding. What my mate Nick is referring to with his ‘old school’ comment is the fact that even though we’ve taken the lift up out of the centre of Sainte Foy, we’re still having to ride uphill to the high point of what is prosaically called ‘Route 6’, from where we can descend some 500 metres back down. It’s hot and sweaty work in the August sunshine, but we get our payback with a couple of halts on our pell-mell descent to enjoy the dramatic panorama of 3,779-metre Mont Pourri’s glacier-draped north-east flanks and the long views down the
Isere Valley towards Bourg St. Maurice. The town is linked with London by an easy train journey — another of Sainte Foy’s advantages. This ride is just a warm-up for us before we hop on the lift again to access ‘Route 5’, hoon back down the fire roads (a wide dirt road used for access in case of a bushfire) for around 400-metres and then start a 300-metre climb on dirt roads to the lovely hamlet of le Monal. And here we once again encounter the kind of mountain biking that has been pushed aside in many alpine resorts in favour of lift-accessed single track rides. Don’t get me wrong, I’ll always be first in line for some screaming single track riding that’s effortlessly reached via the miracle of the modern ski lift. But as I ride along the spectacularly sunny trail to le Monal, perspiring, grunting and with Nick letting out the occasional expletive from behind me, I can’t help but feel you’d be a fool not to give it a go. As we head back down into the village, the pizza and beer we enjoy is completely guilt free, safe in the knowledge that we’ve burnt more than enough calories for the day. Trudging up the following day, we explore the opposite direction to le Monal, and uncover a whole area of riding on offer. Nick and I dragged ourselves, and our bikes, over the forested ridge to the north of Sainte Foy, and pelted along fire roads and mountain trails that took us all the way up to 2,029 metre Refuge de l’Archeboc and the high alpine pastures of the Vallon de Mercuel. This is a 33km circuit which involves 800 metres of ascent and descent, but in return for the effort you encounter landscapes that have changed little since the locals used this
TIM EL ESS TR A IL S
route as a means of accessing neighbouring Italy via the 2,636 metre Col du Mont. I once sat at the col on a sunny August afternoon after hiking up with my dog and we looked on in bemusement as a bunch of dudes struggled up from the Italian side of the pass with mountain bikes over their shoulders; they then set off down the French side — with mountain bikes over their shoulders, the trail being unrideable except in short sections. Go figure… But old fashioned cross-country mountain biking such as that required to get to le Monal and Refuge de l’Archeboc doesn’t necessarily appeal to everyone. Luckily, St. Foy is also renowned locally for the quality of its natural single track rides in contrast to big hitters like Les Arcs and Tignes. Most have a mellower gradient compared to the steeper, more technical riding in other areas, so can be ridden by a range of riders. The flow system works well and, as they’re used less than other trails in the area, they tend to be in better condition. One of the best ways to explore and navigate the area is through the local trail guides, many of whom have been living in the area for years. Steven and Iona McDonald, of the White Room Chalet, have been running mountain bike holidays in the area for over eight years. Consequently they know the local trails like the back of the proverbial hand. I asked Steven why, when they and their clients have the easily accessed riding option of places like Les Arcs and Tignes, do they keep coming back to Sainte Foy? “The more remote, high-altitude trails in the huge empty spaces between le Monal and the Tignes dam or up along the peaks and ridge lines of the Italian border beyond the ski area give more adventurous riders the chance to experience some untouched, technical riding in stunning Alpine scenery,” he said. So you see, Sainte Foy pretty much has it all if you’re a mountain biker — you just have to be willing to rewind a little, and make the effort to head up and find it.
I sat at the col on a sunny August afternoon after hiking up here with my dog and we looked on in bemusement as a bunch of dudes struggled up with bikes over their shoulders
Alf stayed courtesy of the four-star Résidence Le Ruitor in St. Foy ecoleruitor.com. It offers self-catering accommodation with swimming pool, spa, lounge bar, ski/bike lockers and underground parking. Local operator White Room whiteroomchalet.com offers guiding and uplift facilities for all levels of ability, helping you to find the array of single track trails. Getting There There’s a train station at Bourg St Maurice, which is about 20-minutes’ drive from St. Foy. Or you can fly to Geneva or Lyon, both of which are about 2.5 hours away. All photos on this page are by Alf Alderson and The White Room. elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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Photo: Biking in Zell am See-Kaprun (c) Sebastian-Doerk
ADVERTORIAL
RAUF AUFS RAD! It may not have the same ring about it as “on your bike” but Austria has some of the most magnificent cycling opportunities you’ll find anywhere. And although it’s celebrated for its superb mountains, it doesn’t have to be mountain biking. The Zell am See-Kaprun area is famous for its skiing, but there’s plenty of relatively flat terrain – so you can enjoy the peaks for their scenic value, along with the crystal clear Lake Zell. The same goes for the magnificent Lech Zürs area, the Bregenzerwald and the Brandnertal in Vorarlberg. Or you might just prefer to cycle or hike the banks of the folkloric river, the Danube - Europe’s second-longest river after the Volga, and the longest in the European Union. Walking is at its best here in the Austrian mountains. And it doesn’t even have to be that energetic.
Photo: Faistauer-Photography
ZELL AM SEE-KAPRUN So with the coming of spring and summer, in the “sports region” of Zell am See-Kaprun, it’s time to put away skis and snowboards (although skiing is still possible on the Kitzsteinhorn until the early summer) - and bring your bikes out into the Salzburgerland sunshine. Depending on your energy, you can pedal along low-traffic side roads or, once the snow has receded, climb the mountain passes into the breathtaking (in more than one sense) Pinzgauer Grasberge.
VORARLBERG It doesn’t get much prettier than the Austrian state of Vorarlberg, Austria’s westernmost region. It offers unspoiled natural alpine beauty, along with plenty of recreational activities. This delightful holiday region offers a varied landscape and well-marked hiking trails to suit all levels. These range from relaxing walks for the whole family to high alpine climbs for mountaineering types! Here, towns and villages feature a mix of traditional (timber) architecture and surprisingly modern buildings. Cultural festivals create fresh stimulus.
You can enjoy challenging routes, or take it easy on leisurely tours, and first-class single trails plus freeride trails on the Kitzsteinhorn. Enjoy the magnificent mix of scenery – the stunning lake and peaks combined across 2,000km of cycling network. If a planned tour is too long or too difficult (or both), you can even try “E-bikes”: even the longest tour is made more manageable and the most challenging ascents become easier with the help of an electric motor.
Photo: Adolf Bereuter - Bregenzerwald Tourismus
A floating stage on Lake Constance hosts spectacular opera performances. The Schubertiade festival in Hohenems and the picturesque village of Schwarzenberg celebrate classical music. Museums and exhibitions, from the Kunsthaus in Bregenz to Austria’s only women’s museum, open up new horizons. Vorarlberg’s tasty cuisine is refined and has a modern twist. Many ingredients, in particular milk and the popular alpine cheese, are sourced from small farms and regional delicatessen producers. Whether you opt for a hotel or a
holiday apartment, expect high-quality, heartfelt hospitality. Each holiday region is distinctly different. The ski resort of Lech Zürs am Arlberg and its surrounding areas flourish in the summer. Starting at the river spring in Lech am Arlberg and heading to the royal castles in Füssen in Germany, the Lech Trail, a 125 km long-distance walking trail which has been certified as a Leading Quality Trail of Europe, is a real highlight. Along the banks of the untamed Lech mountain creek, you walk across one of Europe’s last whitewater landscapes and literally feel the force of nature. One thing that is extraordinary about Bregenzerwald is the broad spectrum of cycling tours available, from comfortably easy to highly challenging. Mountain bikers can choose from a total of around 450 km of posted routes. The professionals from the Bikeschule Bregenzerwald take several mountain bike tours per day.
LINZ AND DANUBE CYCLING PATH The Austrian section of the Danube (Donau) Cycle Path in Upper Austria and Lower Austria is one of the most famous cycle routes in Europe, extending 230 miles – from the border near Passau, in Germany, all the way to Vienna and beyond to the border near Bratislava in Slovakia. Those in the know suggest that you bike the Danube downstream. Approximately 58,000 people bike the route every year between Passau and Vienna, with popular months between May and September. If you cycle the Danube downstream, you will face only a fraction of them. Make sure to leave extra time to make the most of the interesting sights en route. And that includes fine dining and fine wines. There’s one important thing you’ll be glad to know: you don’t have to bring your own bike! There are 42 bike rental sites (each with six bikes) in the wonderfully scenic Wachau region, a UNESCO Cultural Landscape, known for its rolling hills, vineyards and fortresses. Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in the castle above the town of Dürnstein – what a shame he wasn’t able to explore the wonderful walks! There are ferries which go back and
The Brandnertal offers entertaining programmes, especially for families, to engage in outdoor activities. The Bikepark Brandnertal offers guided tours for families and kids can try the fun sport runs. Tip: All holiday regions offer inclusive cards. Depending on the region, the cards give visitors access to public transport, lifts and cablecars, museums, and also to some recreational activities. They are available either free, or at an affordable, all-inclusive rate.
Photo: Lech Zürs Tourismus
Special Tips:
A sunrise walk to the 2000m Mondspitze peak offers dazzling views and a hearty breakfast! www.brandnertal.at/en The mountain bike map of Bregenzerwald includes the 23 top tours, revealing aspects of the life and culture of the region. www.bregenzerwald.at/en Lake Formarinsee enjoys an idyllic location with
awesome mountain peaks views. In 2015, the lake was voted Austria’s most beautiful site. www.lechzuers.com For more information, please visit www.vorarlberg.travel
Photo: ©WGD Donau Oberösterreich
forth across the Danube, enabling you to visit the north bank, with its lush wine terraces and vineyards, and the south bank, dominated by orchards and forests. Whatever you do, don’t miss Linz – the “Danube City” and European Capital of Culture in 2009 – especially the old town. In spite of its industrial beginnings, Linz boasts that two thirds of its area is made up of meadows and pastures. Linz is hard to miss: situated at the very heart of Europe, at the centre of the Donau region, the city, with its impressive modern opera house, museums, cultural centres, along with a galaxy of great restaurants, lies right on the
river to such an extent that the ships on Europe’s largest waterway sail right through the centre. Package: Linz-Vienna-Bratislava 8xB&B, airport transfer, Donaucard, rental bike, luggage transfer from GBP 573pp in a double room www.hookedoncycling.co.uk See also: www.zellamsee-kaprun.com www.linztourismus.at/en www.donau.com/en www.danube.at www.vorarlberg.travel www.austria.info
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T HE HIGH S A ND LO W S O F THE HAU TE R O U TE
Hiking from Chamonix to Zermatt is a strenuous and brutally challenging task, but the peaks outweigh the troughs Words by Rona Hodgson
R
ain was thundering down onto our emergency shelter, and I huddled together with the seven other hikers, attempting to stay warm. Though it was just the first day of our eight day trek, I couldn’t believe my guide Andy had been forced to test out the small structure. With already aching legs and the elements battering us, I really began to question what on earth had attracted me to this in the first place. Linking Chamonix and Zermatt, the Haute Route had been on my radar for a while — the trail is iconic amongst hikers, showing off some of the best views in the Alps. Our trek started out in Argentière, where the sun shone and the walking remained gentle. My pack was comfortable on my back, and packed with
the utmost care after Andy had gone through it with a fine-tooth comb, instructing us to leave anything behind that was not absolutely essential. I was grateful for it now — every item counted when the going got tough, like when my group had had to squeeze under Andy’s tiny tent shelter. Thankfully, the weather quickly improved and we could continue our hike, albeit a little worn out by the storm. By mid-afternoon we had reached our first hut, the Albert Premier. Though it was basic, I was relieved to get into the warm, taking off my wet socks and shoes to get dry. Over drinks and supper, served by the guardian and his team, our group got to know each other a little better. Group trips are not normally my style — my husband and I had
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Photo: Ben Tibbetts
Photo: Ben Tibbetts
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even considered creating a bespoke group to hike the route with friends later in the season. Yet, we were attracted to this trip as there were just a handful of us. Along with us, were a father and son from Canada on a ‘bonding’ week, a Scottish doctor and a young Indian IT consultant based in London. Later, as I settled down to sleep in the cosy sleeping arrangements — mixed gender dormitories for five or six to share — I felt quietly intimidated by what was to come. We were out on the Glacier du Tour before the sun came up, using the skills we’d learnt the day before and practising roping up and putting on crampons. I was glad for the early rise — my sleep had been restless and I was raring to go. Our trek up to the Col Supérieur du Tour started
in benign conditions but before long a ferocious storm blew in bringing wind and snow and, worse, thunder and lightning. After another brief period under the emergency shelter, we pressed on upwards, doing our best to maintain a steady pace. We zig-zagged through the snow, before roping up and heading for the col. It was scary and thrilling at the same time and quite a relief when finally we squeezed through the narrow rocky passage at the top. In less than 30 minutes, we had crossed over into Switzerland and all seemed to be calm. We enjoyed a serene walk across the snowy plateau to the Cabane d’Orny and a well-earned lunch. I was more than relieved for the long, leisurely stroll through the beautiful alpine scenery. We hopped on to the Breya chairlift and, after
T HE HIGH S A ND LO W S O F THE HAU TE R O U TE
almost seven hours of hiking, took the final descent into Champex. I slept soundly in our charming hotel on the lake and the following morning, we took a taxi to the Mauvoisin dam, to avoid several kilometres of uninspiring walking across the Rhône valley. From there, the trail hugged the side of the reservoir before rising up through meadows full of alpine flowers to a small lake where we had lunch — fresh bread, cheese and cured meats bought in Champex earlier that morning. We arrived at the Chanrion hut with the afternoon sun still shining and plenty of time to enjoy the terrace in front with a drink and our feet up. As we rose the following morning, we were faced with the huge task of trekking up the Otemma glacier. This tongue of ice seemed to stretch endlessly ahead, eerily creaking and rumbling, with small rockfalls trickling down the mountainside, disturbed by the occasional distant chamois. Andy made it look easy, guiding us across this ‘river’ of ice and rock, but I was all too aware how quickly it could become a dangerous spot. Though I was by no means under prepared for the trip, the skills Andy taught me and the decisions he made constantly made me feel safe. The final ascent of 3,160 metres to the Vignettes hut took us up a steep and exposed wall of hard snow, making use of the ice-axes for a scary few minute’s climb. The hut seems perched impossibly on a rocky promontory with amazing views. The next day’s schedule was a straightforward walk to the little village of Arolla, so once again I was determined for something more
challenging. Andy decided we’d start with a morning climb to the Pigne d’Arolla (3,796m), so with crampons and ice-axes to the fore again we ascended the steep slope to the summit and the reward of 360 degree views of all the major peaks of the Western Alps. After that it was downhill all the way — first across glacial moraine and then on a lovely winding path — to the valley and a late lunch in the flower-filled garden of the Hotel Kurhaus in Arolla. That evening weather conditions deteriorated, particularly towards Zermatt. Andy took the night to sleep on it, but the decision was made that it was too unsafe to continue the hike, and we had to return back to Chamonix (via a day’s via ferrata in Evolene). I was gutted — it was an example of the weather wins in the end, and safety has to come first. The sheer thrill of the climbs was in perfect contrast to the beautiful alpine meadows of flowers. The challenges I faced meant evenings wandering around lakes and relaxing on the hotel terraces were more than worth it but I couldn’t help but feel disappointed — and I vowed to return to Chamonix to finish the journey. Watch this space.
Rona Hodgson travelled courtesy of Mountain Tracks on the Classic Haute Route holiday. It runs at varying dates between June and September. The price of £1,495 includes all guide fees and expenses, 9 days accomodation, 7 evening meals and transport of bags from Chamonix to Zermatt at the end of the trip. For more information visit mountaintracks.co.uk/trip/ classic-haute-route
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The Ski Club's Freshtracks trips provide inspirational group holidays matching skiers of a similar ability, using only the best instructors, mountain guides and Ski Club Leaders. The Icelandic Adventure Tour is an eight day trip, beginning and ending with a night in the fascinating city of Reykjavik. Though flights are not included, there are often cheap flights from the UK to Iceland. The trip includes seven days of guided ski touring, with the average hike time of around six hours. Group standard is advanced and expert — purple and gold profiles in the Freshtracks brochure. Accommodation is in the Brimnes lodges in Ólafsfjörður near the village of Dalvik, from where you will set out each day for touring. To find out more, head to skiclub.co.uk/freshtracks, call 020 8410 2022 or look out for the Freshtracks brochure coming soon...
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IMMENSE ICELAND
All Photo: Bruce Goodlad
Words by Harriet Johnston
“Spending time in the wide open spaces of the mountains, far from crowds and closer to the harsh realities of nature is good for the soul,” Ski Club Leader Alastair Smith explains. And the harsh realities of nature don’t come much wilder than the Tröllaskagi Peninsula in Northern Iceland, where runs slope down to the Arctic Ocean. It's remote skiing — with wickedly powdery slopes and a backdrop of striking mountains and lunar-like lakes. From active volcanoes to glaciers and hot springs, the Arctic country is alight with life. Alastair was just one in a group of ten Ski Club members who travelled out to Iceland in March 2016, stepping away from the traditional ski holiday and trying something different. The season stretches from midFebruary to the end of June, so the Ski Club's Freshtracks touring holiday in Iceland comes at the perfect time for exploring. Iceland as a whole has been on the rise in popularity with tourists, thanks to majestic scenery, great food and, most importantly, skiing which is unlike any other. What better way to end the ski season than by cutting into glistening pristine spring snow with perfect turns, gazing out onto some of the most spectacular coastal mountains imaginable? Alongside the incredible skiing, the capital city of Reykjavík, literally translated as the ‘Smoky Bay’, sparkles through the typical dusky winter light. The relatively small city is loaded with impressive restaurants, world class art and stunning architecture. It’s the perfect location to explore Icelandic history, at the Viking longhouse at the Settlement Exhibition or spending the afternoon getting lost in the National Museum. Combine this with the rare chance to catch the Northern Lights, vibrant local food, plus cheap and easy flights from the UK, and it’s not hard to see why Iceland would be a tempting tick off the skiing bucket list. While there are possibilities for skiing in one of five-resorts, the country is quickly becoming a mecca for backcountry skiing thanks to consistent snow cover and wide open landscapes. Alastair explains the satisfaction that comes from ski touring trips: “I finish a ski tour trip with this slight sense of achievement — new ski and mountain skills learnt, mountains climbed, fitness improved, understanding of the world broadened and the spirit of adventure satisfied.” Iceland's reputation is on the rise — it's up to you to tick it off your skiing bucket list before the secret gets out. elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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Take ten cyclists, one boat and a whole lot of Croatian wine and what do you get? A cycle holiday with a difference... Words by Ben Clatworthy
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y legs are burning, and with a tap of the gear lever on my handle bars, the derailleur clunks before shifting down to a lower gear. I’m on the Croatian island of Korčula and, for what feels like an eternity, have slowly but steadily been climbing the narrow road from the port of Prigradica to the small hilltop village of Smokvica, which at over 500m is one of the island’s highest points. The scenery is unbeatable. In the space of an hour I’ve pedalled through small vineyards, tiny hamlets, and lush green forest. And now, nearing the summit, the trees are clearing to reveal the Adriatic Sea far below. I can also spy my home for the week — bobbing along to meet my friends at the end of
our ride. I’ve joined a bike tour with a twist. Instead of doing round-trips on the mainland, I’ve opted for a sail-cycle tour, which allows the possibility of exploring Croatia’s myriad islands in just one week. And the boat is no ramshackle old sailing vessel. Melody is a state-ofthe-art motor yacht with 14 en-suite cabins, two large decks, a hot tub, bar and dining room. Slumming it, it is not. At first glance, my new cycling pals and I make for an unlikely peloton, with young and old representing lives ranging from sedentary to super-sporty. There’s Fiona and Ian, the only other Brits, friends Jenny and Meg, Mike, an ultra-fit Aussie, American schoolteachers Maggie and Judy, a young German couple (more interested in finding secluded coves than strenuous cycling)…and twentysomething me. Our trip had started a few days earlier in Trogir, the walled medieval town with its baroque palaces and romantic cobbled streets, which are juxtaposed with the palm-lined seafront and a string of al fresco cafés and bars. Croatia’s Adriatic archipelago consists of 1,500 islands, of which just 48 are inhabited. All of the islands we visit are, at most, a few hours’ sail from one another, so each morning while we’re sleeping below deck, the boat chugs into life and out of port. Some use this as a wake-up call, rising early to take advantage of the time at sea, but also to catch the sun rising.
Photo: Freedom Trek
Photo: Freedom Trek
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TO L A ND A ND SEA
Our first stop is the island of Hvar, where we moor in the old town of Stari Grad, a few miles north east of the party town of Hvar. Almost as soon as we moor, our bikes are unloaded on to the shore, and there are loud calls of ‘hurry along’ from our guide Petra. The ride, Petra assures us, is easy and designed as a warm-up. Clearly we have differing opinions of the definition of easy, and before I know it I’m pedalling up the first incline of the week. But pain is temporary, and soon we’re rolling into the small fishing village of Jelsa. It’s here that I stumble upon the best (and at 80 pence a scoop, arguably the cheapest) ice cream I’ve ever tasted, at Café Riva in the picture-postcard harbour. Most days we notch up around 30 kms in the saddle, which gets us back to the boat in time for light lunch on-board. The next day would present an even
Photo: Freedom Trek
Photo: Freedom Trek
greater challenge. That morning, we’d sailed on to the island of Vis and, with the temperature already soaring, faced a 9km uphill struggle out of the port. “Think of it as a warm up,” one of the crew jeers with a friendly smile. As the youngest on board, I was adopted by several surrogate mums. “Have you got sun cream on today,” Fiona (who has children my age) asks before sloshing a dollop of cream into my hands. “Water Ben, do you have enough water?” Jenny says a few seconds later… and so on. Vis is fascinating, an island that only recently diversified from small-scale fishing into an under the radar A-list holiday spot. In fact, having been the
base of Marshal Tito during the Second World War, and then a naval base for the Yugoslav People's Army, it was only after the independence of Croatia in 1991 that the island opened its doors to tourists. Evidence of this is visible as we cycle on its one (virtually empty) main road that connects the town of Vis to the port of Komiža. We pass through a dozen or so practically abandoned villages and skirt around the edge of the decommissioned military base — where roadside signs warn of undetonated landmines. Mike, the gung-ho Aussie, is the yellow jersey wearer of our group (if we were competing in the famous race, he would also have scooped the polka dot one for the hills). Mike also acts as mentor, hanging back to offer me pointers. “Get into a rhythm on the steeps, Ben. Set the gears, then rotate at a constant speed.” His words begin to sink in, and soon I’m flying up the hills. Dinner is traditional Croatian fare (think Italian and Mediterranean flavours with a hint of the Eastern European) and is served on the boat. Like most things, it’s a communal event and as the nights pass our group bonds, with the chatter becoming louder and more animated — helped in no small part by the Croatian plonk. Before we know it, we’re comparing ailments and extolling the virtues of cycling (and how we’re all going to ride 100-miles a day when we get home “to keep up the exercise”). The boat’s route varies with each departure, according to the weather forecast. For us, this meant cycling some
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of the tougher routes at the beginning of the week. Which also meant in the later days my legs were weary, and days lounging in the sun on the deck were ohso appealing. I waved the gang on their way, and realised that on any normal cycling holiday my day off wouldn’t have been spent relaxing, but travelling in a car to meet the group. I’d been apprehensive about my week away. How tough would the cycling be? And would I be holed up with a group of MAMILs — middle aged men in Lycra — braying about their prowess, or worse, with a bunch of yachting folk who fancied throwing cycling into the mix? Thankfully, the reality couldn’t have been more different. By the end of the week — having covered some 140 miles of road — I feel fitter, find the hills less challenging and I’ve made a boatload of new friends. On the last night, sipping cold Croatian beer, we're chatting like we’re old pals. Petra and Ian have carted the boat’s piano outside and are working their way through the Beatle's back catalogue, the sun’s setting over the hills and I fancy staying for another week. It’s just my aching legs left to persuade.
Ben Clatworthy travelled courtesy of Freedom Treks (01273 224066, freedomtreks.co.uk), which has seven night's cruise and cycle from £1,005 per person, based on a twin or double cabin, including most meals, guides and maps. Bike hire is from £74, with electric bikes available at an extra cost. The tour departs on various Saturdays from now until October. EasyJet (easyjet.com) has flights to Split from around £150 on Saturdays May to September.
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Requiem to the mountains
A series of open air concerts in the Dolomites will next year take the end of the First World War as its theme Words by Colin Nicholson
hike to be greeted by the strains of an orchestra. It’s not such a fanciful idea. Schubert’s trout quintet, Beethoven’s pastoral symphony and Grieg’s ‘Hall of the mountain king’ are among the many pieces inspired by nature. They are nonetheless played indoors, far from the babbling brooks, pastures and vistas that inspired them. There is a notable exception, however, which is the Sounds of the Dolomites festival. Now in its 23rd year, it is held
throughout July and August, and gives musicians and audiences alike a chance to find out how music would sound if it were played outdoors in a spectacular mountain landscape. Almost every concert begins with audiences being led by a mountain guide to the venue — a rocky outcrop, lush alpine meadow, or shore of a lake — settings where the silences are as powerful as the music. For those who have already booked this year’s summer holidays, the 2018 festival promises to be especially
poignant. It will follow a theme marking the anniversary of the Armistice, with cellist Mario Brunello assembling a ‘peace orchestra’. A laudable aim, you might think, but one rather out of place so far from the battlefields of the First World War. Not so. It was here the Italians launched their disastrous assault on the AustroHungarian empire in 1915 to claim the region of Trentino and other areas. The conflict is known as the White War because it was fought high in the snow-
Photo: Daniele Lira
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magine turning a corner on a
Photo: Daniele Lira
R EQU IEM TO THE M O U NTA INS
covered Dolomites. A million soldiers lost their lives on Europe’s forgotten front, and Trentino has been remembering them by marking four years of centenaries, by organising walks, exhibitions and events. We arrived in late April, too early for the festival, but with conditions perfect for walking and climbing. And we were unaware of the extent the war — and peace — shaped tourism here, and how it would play a part in personal battles of our own. We were staying in Riva, at Lake Garda’s northern tip, which is where Kaiser Franz-Joseph had a lakeside residence. Our residence was the Kristal Palace hotel, and Matteo, our guide from FreeAlp, was waiting in the lobby the next morning to take us on one of the seven tours of the defences in the area — in this case of Monte Corno. Passing between olive trees and Italian cypresses, we scrambled over rocks to reach a tranquil chestnut grove, before the path rose steeply again — an attraction of walking here is that the vegetation varies from Mediterranean to central European. And although there was no orchestra, the sound of bells calling white-robed children to their first communion gave way to the cooing of wood pigeons. The canopy that protected us from the sun didn’t just hide bird life. As we climbed to the insistent tapping of a woodpecker we spied hidden pillboxes,
and ducked into a series of these bunkers set into the cliffs. Up we went, following signs and maps pointing out the sights, to reach a maze of stone trenches, from where we could peer out between the teeth of the crenellated battlements. Finally we reached the fort, where we commanded amazing views over 50km-long Lake Garda. We should have probably solidified our gains, but Matteo suggested an illfated assault on the peak. As he bounced ahead, my husband Anthony, who tends to mix metaphors, said: “This will sort the men from the goats.” And he was right. Perhaps the mournful call of a cuckoo should have warned us. Scrambling back down, I felt a twinge in my left knee that set off alarm sirens. I remembered why I like skiing so much. I can easily hike or tour up, but walking rather than skiing down makes my knee seize up. Ten minutes later I was limping, leaning on Anthony’s shoulder like an injured soldier being carried by his comrade. That was when I discovered the delight of the peace path. Matteo explained how some of the first tourists to the region were former soldiers, who came back to see the place where they had spent such formative years and enjoy the scenery in peacetime. The veterans helped restore the roads that carried supplies, and I was happy to reach one of these, with its incline and soft, grassy centre. It is part elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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of the 250km network of peace paths that cover the Dolomites and is marked by a red and yellow stripe on the map, with the sign of a dove carrying an olive branch. And it got me down. Trekking isn’t the only activity on offer to present-day tourists. Ironically, fearing that the hike might not prove much of a challenge, I had booked us in for an introduction to rock climbing the next day. After a cold dip in the hotel’s infinity pool overlooking the lake, and a few hours resting with my leg up, contemplating how the spectacular Dolomites looked like the wings of a theatre set, each more hazy than the one in front, I fell asleep feeling more ready for the next sortie. The climbing course is run by another group of guides, called Friends of Arco, for which Matteo also works. And I felt reassured when we were joined by a mother and her 13- and 10-year-old daughters. My beginner’s nerves were also assuaged by the setting — an olive grove, whose stone walls seemed to rise naturally into the vertical face to which climbers were stuck, like lizards basking in the sun. Below them sat mothers on picnic blankets, belaying partners with ropes around their waists. Once Matteo had done the lead climb, using pitons drilled into the rock to loop a rope through the carabiner at the top of each route, I too would rely on my partner to be my counterweight if I fell. So I was glad Anthony had overindulged in the hotel’s wonderful breakfast. The first part of the climb was easy enough, but five metres from the top I reckoned my advance had been halted. “No,” said Matteo, my sergeant major 15 metres below. “Keep going. I decide when you stop.” And brilliantly he guided me to the hand and footholds that would lead me to my reward of spectacular views of the valley and lake. But the most terrifying part was still to come. I had to lean backwards to let Anthony abseil me down the rock face. Ah, those lifeenhancing croissants. Remarkably, I managed three ascents. Each time I claimed to be in check mate. Each time, Matteo strategised a different plan of attack. For those still unconvinced of the ease and joy of learning to climb, via ferrata is the perfect alternative. It was invented during the Great War to help
REQ U IEM TO THE M O U NTA INS
Italian soldiers get about, and half the via ferrata tours in the region take the original soldiers’ routes. They use a series of metal steps drilled into the rock to supplement the natural foot and hand holds, and your harness is always attached to a cable by one of two carabiners. I had wanted to do one of the most spectacular routes, the ascent on the 909m Cima Capi peak dropping straight into the azure water of Lake Garda below. Here, as with the hiking trails, you can climb over the fortifications and through the trenches and tunnels of the battlefield. But with clouds gathering and rain forecast, Matteo recommended the more challenging route in the shelter of the Rio Salagoni gorge. Our new-found climbing skills certainly helped, as we scaled first one side then the other of this giant underground world. Through the mist we went, at times hanging on to its concave walls, crossing wire bridges and scrambling up sandy river banks, before finally emerging into the vineyards beneath Castle Dro, which dates from
the middle ages and reminded me that mountain warfare was nothing new. Like the opposing forces of the Great War, my progress on each of the three tours had been remarkably slow. But doing it in peacetime had given me the capacity to overcome my fear, and unlike the four-year war, it had been worth it.
Colin travelled courtesy of Thomson Lakes & Mountains (thomsonlakes.co.uk; 020 8610 3139), which offers a week half board at the Kristal Palace in Riva from £979 per person, including flights from any of six UK airports and transfers. Three nights half board starts at £625. Colin did the Monte Corno hike (€50 per person) and the Rio Salagoni via ferrata tour (€65 per person) with FreeAlp (freealp.com; +39 327 6639300). To do the walk self-guided see gardatrentino. it/trekking or call +39 0464 554444.He climbed with Friends of Arco (friendsofarco. it; +39 338 1933374), which offers the Fun Climb on Mondays for €62 and the Cima Capi via ferrata tour on Wednesdays for €80. For more on the Sounds of the Dolomites festival visit isuonidelledolomiti.it. For more on the region see visittrentino.info
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WE INVITE YOU TO...
DISCOVER 40 ADVENTURE
45 THE PEOPLE
The location guide which will give you that little something extra, with travel ideas for living the adventure in the UK, on a short flight across Europe or worldwide.
See how others connect to the outdoors world — from a superstar snowboarder, to the founder of a mountain guide company and a vlogger with two million subscribers.
44 BOOKS AND TRACKS
50 SKI+BOARD
We uncover the books which will transport you to the
Psst! We let you in on how to enjoy back issues of Ski+board
mountains and podcasts which share stories of wild adventure to make you feel like you’re already there.
and take a sneak peek at stories you can expect to see in the upcoming Olympic season.
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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If you're itching for adventure this summer, heading off the beaten track and going wild camping can be a fantastic way to explore new locations. But is it legal? While there is still some confusion on the shores of Loch Lomond about the wild camping restrictions, (see page 12 for the full story), elsewhere in Europe wild camping is generally accepted. Norwegians are actively encouraged to get outside and sleep under the stars. Allemannsretten is an ancient Norwegian term referring to a person's right to roam. And it's legal to pitch a tent and sleep under the stars in Sweden, Norway, Ireland, Estonia, Latvia and Spain under certain conditions. Before setting up your tent, it's worth checking the laws of the country, as well as keeping litter and campfires to an absolute minimum.
Search for the summer adventure
The mountains in summer are completely different — let these adventures blow you away Words by Harriet Johnston, Chris Madoc-Jones, Rosie Barcroft and Arnie Wilson Something about this time of year always reminds me of breaking up from school. There's a childish joy to the afternoons in June that stems from the feeling of leaving the last class of term and saying farewell to your comrades and teachers for a whole summer. In the summer it’s easy to feel a hankering for winter's mountains, and days spent cruising slopes or lapping up après at a hilltop bar. But it’s a missed opportunity not to look to the mountains for adventures year round which can 1// Look to Scotland and the Isle of Skye for a completely new dimension to the mountains
recapture that feeling — whether you’re having a mini break in the UK over a Bank Holiday weekend or planning a big trip half way across the world. Sure, some might take a little more planning and more dosh, like New Zealand — but maybe you'll end up skiing. Closer to home, the Isle of Skye has plenty to offer, from walking to sea kayaking. And in Europe, look at hiking in the Jungfrau region, and just how different traditional ski alpine areas can be in the summer. HJ
Photo: Visit Scotland/ Kenny Lam
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UK
Photo: VisitScotland / Richard Elliot
Photo: VisitScotland / Kenny Lam
Photo: VisitScotland / Kenny Lam
Photo: VisitScotland / Kenny Lam
Get onto the Isle of Skye
The Isle of Skye may be home to only 10,000 people, but during the summer months this population swells — and for good reason. Adventure-seekers are attracted by the rugged hills, jagged coastline and long daylight hours (an average of 17 hours during the summer months), making the largest island of the Inner Hebrides a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Whatever the weather, Skye is spectacular — although, of course, Scotland's known for its temperamental side. That's why the Isle of Skye's name derives from an ancient Norse meaning ‘cloud island’. The Isle of Skye retains a sense of remoteness, giving you a feeling of escaping the UK. Yes, it is busier in the summer, but walk five minutes from a road, or head out to sea in a kayak and you’ll have the place to yourself. The best way to explore the island is with walking boots. First-timers should head to the Old Man of Storr — perhaps the island’s most famous landmark — all
on well-prepared paths. A round-trip should take a little under two hours. Further up the Trotternish Peninsula, hike around the Quiraing, an ancient landslide here has formed spectacular cliffs and rock pinnacles, which recently featured as the Giant’s Land in the 2016 movie of the Roald Dahl classic, The BFG. For those looking for a more serious challenge, the Cuillin is home to some of the UK’s most spectacular mountain walks. Rising nearly 1,000 metres straight up from sea-level, these mountains are as steep as they get in this country. Be prepared for bad weather, plan your route carefully — many of the peaks require some scrambling skills — and consider hiring a local guide to show you the best routes (skyeguides.co.uk). More gentle options include walks through Glen Sligachan or to the Fairy Pools of Glenbrittle, one of the top spots in the country for wild swimming. Just be prepared for chilly water. As a result of their sheer faces and unique geology (the local gabbro rock
is far grippier than most surfaces), the Cuillin have a rich climbing history that continues to today. Classic routes such as Cioch and the Inaccessible Pinnacle are high on many top climbers tick-lists, but there are over 100 routes listed by the Scottish Mountaineering Club, making this a hub for British climbing. Down at sea-level, over 400 miles of coastline are there to be explored and the best way to do this is via sea kayak. The sheltered east coast of the island lends itself to some of the world’s finest seakayaking, as well as some of the best views of the Cuillin and the Old Man of Storr. Book a guided tour (skyakadventures. com) to see the best the island has to offer and expect to see wildlife up close — including seals, otters and sea eagles. After a long day out in the fresh air, unwind in one of Skye’s traditional pubs (a day in the Cuillin must end with a home-brewed ale in the bar of the Sligachan Hotel), drop by the Talisker distillery or eat local seafood at one of the island’s restaurants. CMJ
1// The famous Mealt Waterfall, which free falls over Kilt Rock in north east Trotternish.
2// The misty Cuillin peaks are described by some as the holy grail of British scrambling
4// The Fairy Pools on the River Brittle, famous for enticing visitors to dip into wild swimming.
3// The Old Man of Storr which featured in the children's film of the Roald Dahl book, The BFG.
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From towering mountains, reflective lakes and vibrant alpine flowers, the Jungfrau region in Switzerland is an ideal place for a summer escape. The region is famous for the notable Jungfraujoch, a glacier saddle at 3,466 metreswhich can be reached by a cogwheel train from the valley floor in Interlaken and a vast array of routes that can be explored on foot. Trails are clearly marked (usually with a yellow sign) and range in difficulty (and duration) to suit all abilities. One of the most popular paths is from First (pronounced ‘Fierst’) to the Bachsee, above Grindelwald, and back to First. The easy 5.8 kilometre trek takes around two and a half hours. Although the terrain is occasionally a little rocky and steep, the small mountain lake is worth a visit. Situated at the foot of the Faulhorn, the cobalt-blue water offers welcome respite and a top spot for a picnic. The brave can even dive into the pool and go swimming, which often holds several ice blocks, even during the
warmer months. Travellers eager for a challenge and with some hiking experience should try the First to Schynige Platte route in the north of the region. Beginning in lush meadows, the 15 kilometre trek soon reaches high-alpine terrain at 2,613 metres. Taking approximately six hours, many people spend the night at Berghotel Faulhorn, or the Männdlene hut a little further on. Because of its length, tackling the course requires durable gear, solid shoes and even a hiking stick. Those wanting to experience the beauty of Schynige Platte without the climb can jump on to the train from Wilderswil and enjoy a leisurely 50-minute journey to the sunny plateau at 1,967 metres. The landscape surrounding Schynige Platte varies from rocks and stones to lush green meadows that are renowned for their display of wild-flowers (which bloom from June to September). Walk along the panorama trail that offers views of the surrounding
mountains down to the still waters of Lake Brienz, and pass the remarkable rocky mass of the Obergerghorn, which can be climbed in 20 minutes, thanks to the convenient stairway. However, the Jungfrau region offers incredible scenes even at lower altitude. Follow the valley from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg at just 800 to 925 metre elevation. The 6.7 kilometre path winds its way along the valley and offers continuous vistas of the surrounding massifs and the striking Briethorn Mountain. Pause at the powerful Staubbach Falls; with a height of nearly 300 metres, it is the second-highest waterfall in Switzerland and the warm, summer breeze causes the spray to turn into shimmering mist, gaining its name (staub meaning dust). The leisurely walk to Stechelberg takes less than two hours in total and those wanting to continue their adventures at a greater height can jump onto the cable car nearby to be whisked up to Mürren and the Schilthorn. RB
1// Meadows of wildflowers in the Jungfrau region, in the Bernese Oberland
2// Panorama with alpine roses on the Isenfluh near Lauterbrunnen, Bernese Oberland
4// Cogwheel railway through the Schynige Platte above Wilderswil, Bernese Oberland
3// Some local sheep enjoying lunch in front of the Staubbach Falls in Lauterbrunnen
Photo: swiss-image.ch/Jeroen Seyffer
Photo: Switzerland Tourism / Martin Maegli Photo: smage.ch/Rob Lewis
Trekking around the Jungfrau
Photo: swiss-image.ch / Christof Sonderegger
EUROPE
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WORLDWIDE
Photo: Bernard Spragg
Photo: Bernard Spragg
Summer skiing in New Zealand
Never skied in New Zealand? You’re in for a treat. Some Kiwis even claim the Southern Alps are more extensive than Europe’s own Alps, but either way, with around 35 ski areas, if you include the dozen or so quaint but often challenging ‘club fields’, you won’t run out of skiing. But what’s a club field, I hear you ask. These are essentially vintage ski areas that have never really developed into 'commercial' ski areas and still have basic on-mountain accommodation — unlike most fully fledged commercial ski areas like The Remarkables (with skiing up to 6,420 feet) Coronet Peak (slopes up to 5,315 feet) and Treble Cone (skiing to 6,102 feet) on South Island, or Whakapapa (the main ski area on the North Island with slopes up to 7,545 feet). In return for cheap lift passes, you stay on the mountain and are expected to help run the accommodation, be it washing up, lighting fires or doing general housework. By general consensus Craigieburn is the best of the club fields, and some would say its
backcountry slopes are among the best in New Zealand. In the major ski areas, by contrast, the norm is to stay down in the valleys: particularly in lakeside towns like Queenstown, for Coronet Peak and The Remarkables, only half an hour or so from Queenstown, New Zealand’s “adventure capital”, and Wanaka, for Treble Cone and Cardrona, — or mountain towns like Methven, a 90-minute drive from Christchurch (to reach Mount Hutt, twice recently voted New Zealand’s best ski resort). Some resorts — like Porter Heights — are former club fields which have evolved into smaller commercial areas. You may find that some of them are even run from the owners’ homes just below the slopes. Club fields tend to be a little less groomed than piste skiing, with most of them relying on primitive ‘nutcracker’ draglifts, so called because of the nutcracker-shaped devices, attached to a belt round your waste that you have to flip over the rope to carry you up the
mountain. Though they're pretty difficult at first, the trick is not to let your hand take the strain (which can also lead to your ski glove being almost scorched by the friction) but to let the belt round your waist take the strain. When the weather is kind in North Island, the Ruapehu volcano resort of Whakapapa (you can pronounce it Fokkerpapa, or even Wuckerpapa, which used to be another pronunciation, but take care when discussing the genuine Maori pronunciation of Fukkerpapa) has some of the highest and best skiing in the country. But because Ruapehu (in a stunning setting alongside two other volcanoes) rises from the comparatively flat countryside of the North Island rather than the continuous mountain chains of the South Island, it tends to attract bad weather— so good visibility may be rationed. But on a great day, the skiing is outstanding. New Zealand’s Southern Alps are only 11,785 miles away. What are you waiting for? AW
1// From Coronet Peak to the Remarkables, the Southern Alps have a wide range of slopes
2&3// Queenstown in the early winter months can be a great destination to enjoy skiing from
4// Skiing in the Remarkables offers phenomenal views of the South Island
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BOOKS AND TRACKS
Take a trip
It’s all too easy to feel disconnected from the outside world when you’re stuck inside the office on a hot day or trapped against train doors. Immersing yourself in books and tracks can transport you in the most ordinary occasions to somewhere exceptional. Alongside our recommended coffee shop books, pop in your headphones and listen to... The Dirtbag Diaries is a podcast which is fast cementing itself as a classic with episodes ranging in length from ten to 15 minutes, covering amusing personal stories from life on the trail. Gail Straub’s beautifully produced She Explores podcast is a real delight, focusing on the stories of women from around the world and their experiences of adventure. Production on Christopher Sleight’s podcast Mountain is exquisite, but it isn’t just that — it’s a high quality British treat, with music, sound clips and content that fills you with emotion. HJ
1// For the ultimate vanlife coffee table book: The Rolling Home: 80,000 miles and counting in a selfbuild home by Calum Creasey 2// For an electic mix of advice and useful information: The Scottish Bothy Bible: The complete guide to Scotland's bothies and how to reach them by Geoff Allan 3// For the pedal pusher cum photographer: Mountains: Epic cycling climbs by Michael Blann
D ISCOVER / / PEO PL E
PEOPLE
pass Nick Parks @nickhparks
The teacher who moved mountains When Nick Parks ditched his day job as a teacher and started Mountain Tracks, he had no idea it would lead to Bear Grylls Words by Harriet Johnston
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Nick Parks was on the hunt for a grownI ask how he spends his free time up job when his children were born. when he’s not busy at work. Having embraced the mountain lifestyle “When I’m not guiding I like to explore throughout his 20s by climbing and the range of alpine environments, from skiing as much as he could, he found snowy passes to flower strewn meadows. himself searching for a more settled It’s so diverse,” he says simply. lifestyle. As an international mountain Though he left teaching behind, his guide, he knew he loved students still feel an There’s a saying teaching and found affinity to him — he’s in the village in himself working as Head just about to take a of Outdoor Education at guided trip up the Switzerland where Marlborough College Matterhorn with a I live — you can visit in Wiltshire. group whom he taught the mountains in the Yet throughout his ten as teenagers over 20 winter but you stay years teaching, Nick felt years ago. for the summer an itch to get back to the Elsewhere, his mountains. Memories of reputation as a pro his seasons in the early 1990s, working guide led to an introduction to Bear Grylls as a ski and off-piste guide for Evolution and an invitation to work on his team. He 2 and then FreshTracks, tantalised him. works as a rope and guiding specialist, In 2000, as he turned 40, he took the heading to filming locations from his base plunge, relocating to Snowdonia and in Val d’Anniviers and ensuring they are started his own company, Mountain as safe as possible before the production Tracks. Three years on, his brother crew arrive. He recently returned from Chris joined him and the company, a trip to the Philippines for a with a blossoming summer and winter production company. business, began to boom. His heart is still very much in the Alps For many years Nick moved around though, no matter the time of year. the mountains, setting up and running “There’s a saying in Zinal, you can visit off-piste and ski touring programmes in the mountains in the winter but you stay the area he calls “the white planet”. for the summer,” he explains. HJ
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D ISCOVER / / PEO PL E
pass Katie Ormerod @ormerodkatie
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The superstar snowboarder With the Winter Olympics fast approaching, Katie Ormerod is one of Britain’s brightest medal hopes
“There are three things that I’ve always where Big Air will also be making wanted — an X-Games medal, a World its debut. Though Katie has done Cup medal, and an Olympic medal,” enough to qualify, athletes aren’t Katie Ormerod quietly says. Underneath formally announced till shortly before the 19 year old’s soft voice, there’s a real the competition in February 2018. determination that shines through. And With many expecting her to be one it’s clear why — Katie is fast becoming of Britain’s brightest medal hopes, an icon in freestyle there’s understandably Winning the gold pressure. But she’s snowboarding. She started skiing aged three, before taking it in her stride. in Russia was weird switching to one plank “I’ve got the results — it was the coldest at her local dry slope in to back me up,” she I’ve ever been and all Halifax. At 16, she was states. “Everyone is I could think about the first woman to land a super supportive and was doing the run double cork 1080, a feat has faith in me. I have and getting inside which some believed was confidence that I can impossible. At 17, she was bring back a medal. ” given the Evie Pinching award by the Though Katie’s cousin Jamie Nicholls Ski Club. This season, she’s won over also competes in the British team, her six podium places, including a bronze family are often too busy at home to see medal in slopestyle at the X-Games in her compete: “I’m kind of doing my own Aspen and in Russia, became the first thing. My mum works in Santander and Briton to win a World Cup Big Air event. my dad is an onsite engineer. I’d love if “Winning the gold was a bit of a weird they could come to the Olympics.” one — it was minus 30°C and the coldest She won’t have much time to visit I’ve ever been. Even the lifts weren’t home — in August, she’s heading off to working in the cold,” Katie shakes her New Zealand for three months training head at the memory. “All I could think with the rest of the GB Park and Pipe about was getting inside. When it came squad. But it’s clear where her focus is. up I’d got the gold I was happy but it was “I’ve ticked off two of my boxes. So it’s taken away a bit because it was so cold.” just the Olympics now.” The success has given her a new Given her track record so far, I don’t confidence ahead of her first Olympics, doubt it for a second. HJ
Photo: MattGeorges
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D ISCOVER / / PEO PL E
pass Photo: Live the Adventure/Louis Cole
Louis Cole @funforlouis
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The YouTube vlogger making headlines Louis Cole’s videos get him millions of views online, but his latest project hopes to make a real difference
With nearly two million subscribers, direction you’re going in?” Louis Cole is one of the most recognisable When Louis met pilot Juan-Peter faces on the internet. His YouTube Schulze in August 2015, he discovered channel FunForLouis has amassed over a shared passion project — a round the 250 million views as viewers check in to world flight. After two years of planning, see his daily travel videos, which span the duo set up a Kickstarter in March to from snowboarding in the Alps to water raise the funds for “Beyond Borders”, a parks in North Korea. If feature length film to you’re looking for someone document the flight How long do you who literally lives the want to ride the wave and the stories of those adventure, you can’t go they met on the way. if you’re not making much further than Louis. Starting in August any deliberate “I always had a little 2017, they’re planning decisions about camera when I was on to fly a twin-engined the direction you’re holiday and would film aircraft in an easterly everything,” he explains. direction for 90 days, going in? “I’ve got videos of me navigating 22 countries vlogging when I was 17 — long before and over 40,000 miles. Louis says he YouTube had even been launched.” hopes the film could go beyond his Louis started his channel making normal viewers. viral videos with his friends but his “For me in this climate, there’s been creative content and natural camera a lot of division in the world. I would presence quickly drew audiences, and love to make the narrative of our flight he soon became one of the leading about uniting in celebrating each other’s British YouTubers. This led to two years differences,” he says. of almost constant travel and filming, “We’ll have amazing adventures to something Louis said was amazing remote areas which I’ll be sharing on my but exhausting. vlogging channel.” “I didn’t feel like I was steering it, To date the duo have raised well over I was just riding the wave,” he says. their £100,000 target, with the film likely “That’s cool... but for how long do to be released in early 2018. You can you want to ride the wave if you’re keep up to date with Louis’ adventures at not making any decisions about the youtube.com/funforlouis HJ
elevation ~ summer 2017 ~ skiclub.co.uk
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Snozone Castleford and Milton Keynes 10%
Nonstop Ski & Snowboard Various discounts Powder Extreme Various discounts Pro Ride Snowboard Camps Various discounts
Southampton Alpine Centre 10% Spice Adventure 3 months free Suffolk Ski Centre 15% Sunderland Snowsports Centre 20% Swadlincote Ski & Snowboard Centre 10%
OTHER
Tamworth Snowdome £15 discount
Ackers Outdoor Activity Centre 10%
Telford Ski Centre 5%
Alpine French School £25 Free enrollment fee Alpine Snowsports Aldershot 10% Bassingbourn Snowsports Centre Up to 25% Bearsden Ski & Board 10% Bowles Snowsports Centre 10% Bracknell Ski Centre 20%
Yoodo Movie Maker 20% All discounts are based on information available at the time of going to press. All are subject to partners’ terms and conditions and are subject to change without prior warning. See skiclub.co.uk/discounts for further information or call Member Services on 020 8410 2015
Discover the best guided Alpine Trekking and Mountaineering Adventures
020 8123 2978 mountaintracks.co.uk info@mountaintracks.co.uk
@mtracks
SKI+BOARD MAGAZINE RETURNS IN THE AUTUMN
The October Issue
Photo: Ben Tibbetts
An all-American bus trip skiing the states with the help of the Epic Pass plus the best ways to learn freeride Plus all the usual regulars, like news, the new freeride skis and freestyle snowboards and fitness
Past issues Did you know you can read back issues of Ski+board online? Head to skiclub.co.uk/ skiandboard for more...
Photoon opposite page: Swiss Tourism
facebook.com/MountainTracks
SKI CLUB BENEFITS
SKI CLUB MEMBERSHIP
– IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT WINTER!
The ski season might be over, but that doesn’t mean you should put your Ski Club membership card in mothballs for the summer. Your membership works for you all year-round, with discounts on summer holidays, planning for next season’s ski trips, and savings with high-street and online retailers for all your summer essentials. So, keep your membership card handy this summer, and you might find yourself reaching for it as often as the sunblock, ice cream and floppy hat.
SUMMER HOLIDAY DISCOUNTS
SANEF TOLLING
We’ve teamed up with loads of tour operators to offer our members great savings, including up to 12% off summer holidays with Neilson and 10% with Mark Warner.
Sanef provides you with a stress-free way to drive in France. Spend less time at the toll plaza by getting a tag and beeping through the automatic lane. Ski Club members benefit from free application – usually €10. Find out more in the discounts section on skiclub.co.uk
SHOP ‘TILL YOU DROP! Need gear and camping equipment for all those summer festivals and hiking and cycling trips? Our top shopping discounts include 20% off with Blacks and Ultimate Outdoors, 15% off with Snow + Rock, Cotswold Outdoor, and Runners Need, and 10% off at Cycle Surgery – in store and online. SKI CLUB INSURANCE
BOOK YOUR FRESHTRACKS DECEMBER HOLIDAYS NOW! Some of our most popular December Freshtracks trips are already on sale and filling up fast. Get the season off to a perfect start with our unique brand of group trips to some of Europe’s finest resorts, including Val d’Isère, St Anton and Andermatt.
Our insurance policies aren’t just for winter sports – they’ll give you the cover you need for your summer adventures too, and include activities such as mountain biking, hiking and jet skiing. Ski Club members get 15% off. Visit skiclubinsurance.co.uk to find out more.
SKI IN THE UK ALL SUMMER LONG
CAXTON FX CURRENCY CARD
There’s a lot to consider when planning a ski trip. Which resort best suits your needs, how should you get there, what shiny new kit should you buy? The Ski Club’s Information Team doesn’t go into hibernation over the summer – they’re here all year long to answer your questions and give you advice. Call 020 8410 2009 to speak to one of our experts or visit skiclub.co.uk
With a Caxton FX card you can load up your holiday money in advance, locking in great exchange rates for currencies across the world. As a Ski Club member you’ll get £10 added for free to your opening balance. Visit partners.caxtonfx.com/skiclub for more info and to apply.
Keep your ski legs loose and work on your technique throughout the summer with up to 10% off indoor snow slopes and dry slopes across the UK. INFO AND ADVICE
A WELL-DESERVED OPPORTUNITY E XCLUSIVE VOLVO V60 MEMBER OFFER You joined the Ski Club to get more from something that matters to you. Buy the V60 D4 R-Design Lux Nav Automatic, with its advanced handling and practical versatility, and we’ll return your commitment with an exclusive saving of £8,539. TO FIND OUT MORE, VISIT SKICLUB.CO.UK /DISCOUNTS OR CALL T YSON COOPER ON 01473 372 020 V60 D4 R-Design Lux Nav Automatic Personal Contract Purchase Representative Example* 48 monthly payments Customer deposit Finance deposit contribution On the road price Member saving
£269.00 £7,980.50 £750.00 £38,530.00 £8,539.00
Revised on the road price
£29,991.00
Total amount of credit
£21,260.50
Interest charges Total amount payable Duration of agreement (months) Fixed rate of interest (per annum) Optional final payment Mileage per annum Excess mileage charge Representative APR
£3,239.86 £33,230.86 49 2.52% £11,588.50 8,000 14.90p per mile 4.9%
Available with 3 years’ complementary servicing when purchased on Volvo Advantage Personal Contract Purchase.
Official fuel consumption for the Volvo V60 D4 R-Design Lux Nav Automatic in MPG (l/100km): Urban 53.3 (5.3), Extra Urban 72.4 (3.9), Combined 64.2 (4.4). CO2 emissions 116g/km. MPG figures are obtained from laboratory testing intended for comparisons between vehicles and may not reflect real driving results. *Finance subject to status. Retail sales only. Subject to availability at participating dealers only on vehicles registered by 30th June 2017. At the end of the agreement there are 3 options: (i) Part exchange the vehicle, (ii) Pay the Optional Final Payment to own the vehicle or (iii) Return the vehicle. Further charges may be made subject to the condition or mileage of the vehicle. Terms and conditions apply. Applicants must be 18 or over. Guarantee/Indemnity may be required. Volvo Car Credit, RH1 1SR. The complementary servicing offer is only available when purchasing on Volvo Advantage Personal Contract Purchase at participating dealers (excludes Polestar and Hybrid vehicles), on vehicles ordered between 01/04/2017 and 30/06/2017. Services must be carried out at a Volvo Authorised Repairer. Retail offer only. Excludes fleet operators and business users. See volvocars.co.uk for full terms and conditions.