Ski+board April 2015

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APR 15 ONLINE ONLY

Produced by skiers and boarders for skiers and boarders

Skiing off-piste in Europe’s unlikely freeride hot spot + How to organise a group ski trip + Weekend skiing + Backcountry technology + The best party resorts

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Contents April 2015

06 Exposure Three pages of shots from Alpine events taking place this winter — epic contrast, family fun, and serious freeriding

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12 You Say/News Your letters on the French leading ban are making an impact, plus avalanches, travel chaos and a new snowfall world record

24 7 in 7 The Ski Club’s video producer heads to Austria to tick off seven resorts in a week

28 Get your group on Thinking of arranging a group skiing holiday? Follow our top tips for success

31 White weekends The season is in full swing, and there’s still time to sneak off for a ski weekend

15 Learning to fly Our writer takes to the skies as he flings himself off a ski jump


Editor’s note Be careful what you wish for. This winter has been one of two halves: first a lack of snowfall forced scores of resorts to delay their opening (at huge cost to local businesses, for whom the Christmas period is one of, if not the most important, time of year). And then, when the snow started falling, it did so with a vengeance. And so came the second problem — the snow fell on an unstable base layer, sending the avalanche risk soaring. On the worst day of this season, January 31, ten people died in avalanches. In the Pyrenees, the avalanche risk reached five — the maximum level — not once, but twice. And at the time of writing, the Western Alps are bracing themselves for over two metres of snow in the next few days. Such quantities of fresh snow, in such a short time, make the off-piste a virtual no go area. This is bad news for powder hungry skiers. But not me. This season, in light of the conditions, I’ve opted to stick to the groomers, eschewing the backcountry. Admittedly, I have a racing background, and relish the prospect of ripping around the mountain on beautifully groomed runs, imagining I’m back on my Downhill planks. I have missed off-piste skiing, but then I miss racing too. My point is that we should not assume one form of skiing is the be all and end all for everyone. It’s good to take a break from things. My days in the start gate are now permanently behind me, but I know next season I’ll be able to once again head into the wilderness seeking fresh lines. It’s just that I’d rather do that knowing the conditions are safe. So for those skiers tempted to push their luck by the sheer abundance of snow I would suggest this is the year for piste skiing. Cherish every turn, and I’m sure you’ll too find a renewed love of the groomers.

ONLINE ISSUE Editor Ben Clatworthy ben.clatworthy@skiclub.co.uk @benclatworthy EXECUTIVE Editor Colin Nicholson colin.nicholson@skiclub.co.uk ART DIRECTOR Nicole Wiedemann Media sales Madison Bell madisonbell.com 0207 389 0859 OVERSEAS MEDIA SALES Martina Diez-Routh martina.diez-routh@skiclub.co.uk +44 (0) 7508 382 781 Publisher Ski Club of Great Britain

Ben Clatworthy

London SW19 5SB

Ski+board online editor

skiclub.co.uk 020 8410 2000 Member of the Audit Bureau of Circulations. Independently audited circulation of 23,354 (January 2014) © Ski Club of Great Britain 2015 ISSN 1369-8826

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All material is strictly copyright

Andorra

and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may

There’s a quiet freeride revolution taking place in Andorra

be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the publisher. All prices and data are correct

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Ski technology

Resort insider

It’s backcountry season, but don’t head to the wilderness unprepared…

Ski+board

April 2015

The mountains reverberate with music come spring, but where’s the best party?

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41 Classified Small is beautiful in our advertisers’ selection of chalet breaks, and holidays

expressed in Ski+board are not COVER PHOTO: Mark Chilvers

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at time of publication. Opinions necessarily those of the Ski Club of Great Britain, nor does the publisher accept responsibility for advertising content.

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exposure

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SKIERS Various Location Les Gets, France Photographer Mojocom Agency Did someone turn up the contrast settings? ‘Colour runs’ were all the rage in cities across the world in 2014 and now ski resorts are cottoning on to the idea. The first ‘colour ski’ was held in Les Gets at the end of January. Skiers donned white boiler suits, strapped on their skis and were blasted by florescent powder as the mountains pulsated with colour. The paint is biodegradable, but still don’t pack your best ski suit.


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Skier Luke Smith Location Grandvalira, Andorra Photographer David Carlier

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Luke Smith hurls himself off the final jump on his way to finish second in the Junior Freeride World Championships, which took place in Grandvalira last month. The 17-yearold, who hails from Verbier, Switzerland and has competed in the Junior FWT for the past two seasons.

RUGBY PLAYERS Unknown Location St Gervais, France Photographer Simon Shaw ‘If you can play it on grass, you can play it on snow’, so they say. And rugby is no exception. The ‘Six Stations Tournament’ takes place each February in resorts in the French Haute-Savoie and Savoie regions. Organised by Yann Delaigue, a former French rugby sevens player, the competition takes place in the Six Nations’ off-week. This year English full back Iain Balshaw joined the roster of players.


T HE UK'S

L EA DIN G SNO W S P O RT S RETAILER

S T R O P S WINTER

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UP TO

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| WWW. S NOWA NDRO CK.CO M | 2 5 ST O RES NAT IO NW I DE


Norway, where the ski season lasts longer

More snow, more skiing, more for your money and more winter activities. With a ski season lasting until the end of April, what’s not to like about Norway?

Here are our top 5 reasons for choosing Norway for your next skiing holiday: 1. Superb snow. It’s guaranteed! Endless amounts of it. Norway regularly registers more snow than anywhere else in Europe and has the most reliable snow conditions. The season extends several weeks beyond most resorts in the Alps – well into May in many places - and off-piste, there is still fabulous powder to please more experienced skiers. So you really can go skiing this Easter!

Even better news, this year visitors will find that their pound buys so much more than 12 months ago due to good exchange rates. 3. Easy to get to. Surprisingly, only two hours from the UK. Norway is served by a wide range of airlines with departure points all over the UK. Transfer times to major resorts vary between 45 minutes to 3 hours.

2. Exceptional value.

4. More time on the mountain.

The value to be found in Norwegian ski resorts is a well-kept secret. Children under-7 ski free, provided that they wear a helmet (also provided free of charge). Accommodation, typically self-catering ski-in, skiout chalets, mountain cabins and apartments are spacious, well equipped and of much higher quality than those of comparable cost in the Alps. Chicly furnished in modern Scandi style with traditional touches, private saunas, log fires and designer kitchens provide luxury mountain living at down to earth prices.

Norway’s ski resorts are pleasantly uncrowded and with fast, modern lifts that means more time skiing and less time queuing in the spring sunshine. The ski equipment on offer is also state-of-the-art. 5. Plenty of non-ski options. Skiing in Norway combines the very best modern facilities with traditional charm. You will also find many other winter activities to enjoy – who could resist snowshoeing, ice fishing, horse-drawn sleighs, ice climbing or husky-sledging?

Book with the following Norway ski specialists. Crystal Ski: www.crystalski.co.uk Ski Safari: www.skisafari.com skiNorway: www.ski-norway.co.uk Inntravel: www.inntravel.co.uk Best Served Scandinavia: www.best-served.co.uk


Back and forth to the up and down, 25 times daily. It’s never been so easy to get to the Alps from London. At SWISS, we offer regular departures from all 3 major airports. En route to the slopes, you’ll travel in great comfort thanks to our outstanding inight service. By the way, your ski equipment travels free. For more information visit us on swiss.com


you say... FRENCH SKI SCHOOL WASHES HANDS OF HOSTING BAN

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Thank you for publishing my letter in relation to the French ban on the Ski Club’s volunteer Leaders. Seven months later, I have received a reply from Val d’Isère which I am forwarding to you. This all seems rather disingenuous, saying: “Nothing to do with us mate, we love the Ski Club.” Hans Scheiwiller Hello from Val d’Isère, We are following up your comments you sent The ESF, as in all us on 2 July 2014. cases, was “partie civile” and NOT the prosecution. In the case of Ken Piddlesden from The Ski Club of Great The ESF hopes to continue Britain a ‘gendarme’ the work with the SCGB. had been following We hope this statement him during the 2 hours will bring some light to prior to his arrest the subject and here in Val (and a few months with d’Isère we look forward to previous problems). making your stay enjoyable.

Sorry to lumbar you with this, but… I note in the February/March issue of Ski+board, 'Me And My Injury' article (p84), that the accompanying diagram shows up to 14 thoracic vertebrae, when in fact there are of course only 12. T13 and T14 should be L1 and L2, with the ‘L’ standing for lumbar, though I hate sounding like a bit of a smart Alec. Dr Keith Christie Former Senior Lecturer in Anatomy, University of Dundee

To:

Hans Scheiwiller

Cc: Subject: RE: Ski Club of Great Britain

Hello from Val d’Isère, We are following up your comments you sent us on 2 July 2014. Your mail has consequently been transferred to the right service in charge of bringing you the following answer. The ESF is a franchise and operates with Directors in each resort, voted in each term by the instructors of the school. As the French authorities have always stated, the law of guiding and touring are illegal when money and instructing are obvious. This is a law that many think antiquated, however, a law is a law. The ESF, like in all cases, was “partie civile” and NOT the prosecution. Whoever put out the press release from the Ski Club of GB was obviously trying to do their best to break all possible relations with the ESF. The ESF has been working closely with senior officials from the Ski Club over the last few months in order to try and make things better for the future – something the SCGB members aren’t aware of.. In most of the 11 resorts the directors of the ESF work very well with the Ski Club and their members and there have been no problems with the SCGB leaders and local police. In the case of Ken Piddlesden from The Ski Club of Great Britain a ‘gendarme’ had been following him during the 2 hours prior to his arrest (and a few months with previous problems). The ‘gendarme’ had no hesitation in arresting Mr. Piddlesden and the case went to court where the judge gave quite a hefty punishment. This was entirely the decision of the French state. It must be stated that 98% of the controls on the slopes in France are with the ski schools and only 2% for the tour companies, clubs etc. The ESF hopes to continue the work with the SCGB even if some of the members are, sadly not given the whole truth about the Piddlesden affair. We hope this statement will bring some light to the subject and here in Val D’Isère we look forward to making your stay enjoyable. Kind regards, Oliver

Throwing down the gauntlet In your article 'Boots that dare to be different' (Ski+board Feb/Mar 2015) it says: "Dahu's focus is on comfort and convenience, rather than performance". Dahu ski boots are just as performance orientated as any other ski boot on the market. You are invited, with pleasure, for a slope test! Laura Marro, public relations, Dahu Ski+board boots editor Chris Exall replies: I think you do have an interesting product, but I do not accept your statement. As far as I know the Dahu does not have a cant adjustment or a 'power strap' — both of which are essential in a performance ski boot. The other boots in the article were designed for very high performance skiers. However I am sure the Dahu would offer more all-day comfort — which was the point I was making in the article.

No such thing as a free lift In the November of Ski+board I read an article on Obergurgl that said non-skiers can ride the gondolas free. This is incorrect… there is a pass which costs €10. The only free lift pass is for the over 80s. Jo Wilkinson Ski+board writes: Many thanks to you and other readers who have pointed this out and apologies for the error. Our contributor’s computer went into meltdown but we accept responsibility for the error. As you correctly point out hikers are liable for €10 fee.

your photo of the season Here’s an amazing meteorological phenomenon from Val Thorens, which I was able to photograph. The sun is shining through a fog and concentrated at a point. There was also a brilliant inverted rainbow which can just be seen, but got lost in the glare. Don Rutherford


sKIING news ITALIAN SNOWSTORM SETS NEW WORLD RECORD Chris Madoc-Jones, snow reporter

Ski deaths set for FIVE-YEAR high as avalanches wreak havoc Ben Clatworthy

HEAVY SNOW CAUSES TRAVEL CHAOS… AGAIN Ben Clatworthy Thousands of British skiers trying to return home after half-term holidays were left stranded after heavy snow in the Alps crippled the French road network and forced airports to close runways and divert planes. It was the second time this season that the authorities were forced to open emergency shelters in schools and sports halls. The last Saturday of half term is one of the busiest days of the winter on French roads. An estimated 200,000 British skiers were in the Alps for the holidays. Météo-France, the French weather service, issued an orange alert — the second highest — for snow and ice. The snow forced runways to close at Chambéry, Grenoble, Lyon and Geneva airports. At Geneva — a main hub serving the French and Swiss Alps — computer glitches aggravated the situation. At Grenoble, at least 400 British holidaymakers spent the night in a school hall, while at Chambéry the situation was so serious that the Red Cross provided sustenance for those stranded overnight. There was also chaos on many arterial French motorways.

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SCOTTISH SKI AREAS REPORT GROWTH IN VISITOR NUMBERS All five Scottish ski areas are reporting a growth in skier numbers compared with last winter. According to the latest figures, there have been 113,578 skier days across the five areas this winter, compared with 95,622 last year. “We’re already well ahead of last season at the same point — almost 19 per cent ahead — and also marginally ahead of the 201213 winter, which was itself a great season,” Heather Negus, chairwoman of Ski-Scotland, said. That season proved to be worth almost £30m to the Scottish economy.

BELGIAN TOURISTS GIVEN THE RUN AROUND Never trust the satnav. A group of Belgian skiers and snowboarders fell asleep on a bus heading to the Alps, but woke up in the wrong La Plagne, 600km from the French resort. The driver had entered the address of a small, snow-free town in south-west France, rather than the ski resort of the same name. The coach driver apparently complained that there were too many ‘Plagnes’ to choose from on his GPS. One of the organisers of the trip, Lobke van Eijk, explained that the tourists “just took it as it came”. They arrived 24 hours late.

13 news

The 2014-15 European ski season is set to be the most deadly for five years as the death toll from avalanches in the Alps approaches 100. The combined total of 56 dead in France and Switzerland already surpasses the number of fatalities on the slopes in those two countries last winter, with several weeks of the season remaining. A further 22 people have been in avalanches killed Italy this season, while in Austria the toll stands at 21. As tens of thousands of Britons prepare to head for the slopes for the Easter holidays, most Alpine resorts have issued warnings to off-piste skiers to take extra care to avoid triggering avalanches after heavy snowfalls covered an unstable base. “We always see an increase in deaths in years when there is a thin snowpack followed by heavy snow,” Henry Schniewind, an avalanche expert, said. He warned that areas away from marked ski runs were uncontrolled and posed serious risks. “Any slope off-piste over 30 degrees, equal to about the steepness of a red run, is capable of sliding,” he said. In February, 13 people were killed during the course of just three days on the slopes.

The small Italian town of Capracotta was hit by over two and a half metres of snow in just 18 hours. The storm set a new world-record, smashing the 193cm of snowfall, held by Silver Lake, Colorado since 1921. Such was the depth of snow that local residents were digging tunnels from their front doors and had to clamber out of first floor windows to access the streets below. Nearby Pescocostanzo received 240cm of snow on the same day. Both towns lie at around 1,400m in the Apennine Mountains to the east of Rome.


SKIBOOTSFOREVERYSKIER At Surefoot, we have a relentless drive to make every ski boot we sell the best fitting, best performing ski boot possible. Which means tirelessly working to improve fit, performance, comfort and warmth. Whether it's your first time on the slopes or you are a seasoned expert, Surefoot has the perfect boot for you and your ability. We carry all the top brands including our legendary Surefoot Custom Boot which comes complete with our custom liner and computer-fit insole. And the only thing more comfortable than our boots are our prices which fit every budget. So come into Surefoot today where a ski boot made just for you is waiting.

Skier: Russ Shay, Owner, Surefoot

surefoot.com LONDON


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april 2015

15 “Don’t be afraid, you can’t get hurt in the air,” are the parting words of my coach, Matt, In a system designed by the Austrians, as I mount the ominous wooden staircase like a felon to the gallows. each jump is measured in metres from take‘Fear’ is an overused word. We’re all guilty off to landing area, or Kritical point. of applying it to moments where, if My instructor, former US skier and Olympic we’re honest, we’re just a trifle apprehensive. coach Matt Terwillegar, begins by teaching me the position to adopt before take-off. But right now, high above an Olympic Park, Knees are bent low, back parallel to the snow staring down the unforgiving icy barrel of a 40-metre ski jump, it doesn’t begin and arms tucked in, palms outward. to describe how I feel. This isn’t just fear “You have to stay aggressive, with your — this is unadulterated, pant-wetting terror. weight right over your skis,” says Matt as we practise over and again, ending each time Matt had warned me about thoughts like with an explosive upward push of the legs. this — “the paralysis of analysis”. Right now, This laborious rehearsal — key to every ski squinting at his beetle-like form waving at me from the distant landing area, paralysis jumper’s training — is known as performing is a genuine worry. ‘imitations’. “It’s like the ski jumping Taking deep breaths, I imagine an Action equivalent of a golf swing,” says Matt. “Once Man-style ‘sear’ switch in the back of my you slow it down, it’s very simple. But it’s head, and lock it to the ‘off’ position. Before also extremely easy to get wrong.” With, one my brain has a chance to realise what I’ve assumes, far more serious repercussions in done, I tip the points of terms of handicapping. my skis over the edge The following This isn’t just fear — and within seconds I’m morning I’m kitted this is unadulterated, accelerating down the out in an Eddie the pant-wetting terror tramlines at ferocious Eagle-style jumpsuit speed, with nothing that leaves nothing to whatsoever to prevent me from being hurled the imagination (including the number of into the freezing blue sky. American-sized portions I’ve been devouring The Jump made it look so easy. Those 16 while skiing at nearby Park City). celebrities — one of whom didn’t even realise This tasty little number is teamed with a lightweight helmet and special jumping that skis and boots were separate pieces of kit — all managed it. So why couldn’t I? boots, which look like a cross between boxing Joey Essex won last month’s second series, trainers and clown shoes. With my spangly for crying out loud. All it took was a little outfit, helmet and burger belly, I look like a ability and a lot of balls, right? So when low-rent, pudgy Evel Knievel impersonator. offered the opportunity to try it for myself Less an eagle — more an enormous blue tit. at Salt Lake City’s Olympic Park, I... ahem... Nevertheless, colossal jumping skis in hand, I’m ready for take off. The lowest jumped at the chance. jump might be just two metres, but with My initial hope, after a three-day training cumbersome, borderline uncontrollable 2.5m programme, was to take on the K20.

skiclub.co.uk

Learning to fly

With another season of Channel 4’s The Jump coming to an end, Jonathan Thompson tries Olympic ski jumping for himself. After all, if Joey Essex can do it, how hard can it be?


planks strapped to each foot, the K2 is plenty scary enough. I genuinely surprise myself when I’m in the air for less than a second, then land comfortably. Soon I’ve graduated successfully from the K5 jump and Matt decides I’m ready to tackle the K10. It’s all going suspiciously well. Each new jump is petrifying at first, but ultimately landable. Matt shows me how to improve my airborne shape by cocking my ankles, and I manage an ungainly “V” shape with my skis while airborne, in a bad imitation of the pros. By the end of my second day I’m not only confident, but physically unblemished. Day three dawns seconds later I feel and I’m ready to snow again — The blue tackle the monster tit has landed I’ve had half an eye on throughout: the K20. It’s twice what I’ve jumped previously, but I concentrate hard on folding my body down into the in-line position, then exploding up at the take-off point. With a cross between a yell of terror and a whoop of delight, I’m off the lip and arcing through

Jonathan Thompson in the starting blocks

Lift off: the technique involves conquering fear


ALL PHOTOS: Mark Chilvers

Mastering landing is as hard as flying

It was all going so well until…

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17 Learning to fly

Pain notwithstanding, I am determined the air. A few seconds later I feel snow under to do it right, and there’s still time for one my skis again, and I’ve done it. The blue tit final jump. I know I don’t have to do it. has landed. Matt skis over as I stop in the landing area: I know I shouldn’t do it, but I know I can do it. Despite the growing pain in my lower back, “Well done,” he grins. “If you want, I reckon I get a much better shape in the air this time you could have a look at the K40. Fancy it?” and, keeping my weight forward, I land it. I And so I find myself climbing that long, punch the air ecstatically before inadvertently steep wooden staircase, heart in mouth crossing my planks and face-planting into the and skis on shoulder. I consider and reject slope. I have a mouthful of snow and a small retreating down the stairs twice before crowd of tourists are slipping into the laughing, but I don’t tramlines and my backside hits the snow care. As far as I’m tipping my body with such force that I bounce concerned, I’ve won. over the edge. My time is up. Seconds later, and smack down again My derrière is gravity pulls me in a world of trouble (later diagnosed as a faster than I’ve ever travelled before and I’m propelled, cartoon-cannon style into fractured coccyx after an unbecoming episode the mountain sky. Form evaporates as I leave with a doctor and a rubber glove) but I feel terra firma like an A-Team extra from an vindicated. I may be battered, but I looked exploding Jeep. fear in the eyes and launched myself towards For a jubilant split-second I think I’ve it at considerable speed. Like Joey Essex, landed it, then a combination of speed Mike Tindall and co, I’d made the jump and and appalling weight distribution send me lived to walk away — even if it was with a slight limp. thudding to the ground, from where I skid all the way down on my back, finishing with For more information on skiing in Utah, one leg in the car park. visit utah.travel or call 0845 6020 574 Unhurt, I resolve to do it again, but in a for a destination guide. The Park City more gainly fashion. My second crash is even Nordic Ski Club (pcnordicskiclub.org) worse. I jump higher — and land harder. In fact, my backside hits the snow with such operates a variety of jumping courses force that I actually bounce and smack starting at £25 a session. For more on the down again, steaming along so fast that my Olympic Park, visit olyparks.com. right ski is torn off and races ahead, flying off the landing area, across a road and into Find out about other Olympic sports and a café wall. The rest of me ends up in a pile British athletes at skiclub.co.uk of snow and pain and I lie there, unable to speak or move, for a good couple of minutes.


Andorra

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LET RIP IN EUROPE’S UNLIKELY FREERIDE CAPITAL With patrolled freeride areas and sunny slopes, Andorra is fast becoming a hotspot for skiers seeking world class skiing and tasty tapas, says Colin Nicholson.


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t’s scarcely bigger than a postage stamp, yet the tiny principality of Andorra is reinventing itself as a freeride capital. Its largest ski area, Grandvalira, has been promoting freeride for the past three seasons, and has set up the ‘Freeride Center’, a part of the ski school dedicated to this offpiste specialty, while ski touring is becoming so popular, you sometimes meet as many people skiing uphill as downhill. It’s a remarkable change for a place that a decade ago was still the cheap winter destination of choice for the ‘sun and sangria’ crowd, lured by duty-free alcohol. Just ten years ago, tiny Andorra had a staggering 14 per cent share of the UK tour operator market. This has dropped to seven per cent as prices have risen to fund investment, taking it from tacky to trendy, as concrete monstrosities were stone-clad and the government paid for fast, modern chairlifts and installed extensive snowmaking equipment, despite a run of good winters. Then came the economic crisis, meaning that the upgrade of the cheapest resort, Pas de la Casa, sitting on the French border, appears to have been put on ice. So bargain-hunters

being the poor relation. A futuristic, Bond-style restaurant — Coll Blanc — straddles the ridge between it and Grau Roig. As we chased each other 007-like down the lunar landscape our adrenaline rose as the sound of baying dogs grew ever louder. That is because Grau Roig is where you can go skijoring (skiing helped along by a dog). But we were having enough excitement on two planks without burning our cash, so we climbed the opposite side of the valley and dropped into the natural half pipe at Riu de les Solanelles, swinging like pendulums down its sides, before heading to Soldeu.

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I headed for the freeride area to carve beautiful graffiti in the fresh powder I found there. who don’t mind noisy sports bars can relive the heady days of the Eighties there, while those willing to spend a bit more can head further south — and all on delightfully uncrowded slopes. The eurozone downtown has hit the main Spanish market particularly hard, so lift queues are now a rarity, particularly if you go just before the 20th of the month (payday in Spain). To compare the two Andorras, I and my partner booked into the five-star Sport Hotel Hermitage in upmarket Soldeu, while his two younger brothers – sorry, boys – booked in the budget Hotel de les Pistes in ‘Pas’. But could we be sure to having an equally exciting adventure?

Skiers are attracted by the patrolled freeride areas Andorra’s largest ski area, Grandvalira, boasts 210km of connected runs, and we determined on a mission impossible – skiing all of them from one end to the other in a day. We set off from Pas, which as the highest skiable point of the Pyrenees has the surest snow and steepest runs, despite Ski+board

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Many resorts have been transformed from concrete to chic The pistes are gentler here, and in this more verdant landscape we smelled the sap of ancient pines, their gnarled trunks as expressive as sculptures, before skiing straight over the bridge to our hotel, the Hermitage. Here PJ, my poor brother-in-law, turned as green as the trees with envy. As well as boasting boutique-chic rooms with stunning views, it has a superb, multi-storey spa overlooking the slopes. It was time to beat a hasty retreat, and lunch offered a good distraction. Andorra’s self-service restaurants are a far cry from the many dark, dingy dining halls of the Alps, with huge windows, light wood furniture, (free) pristine loos and even some indoor picnic spots for the budget-conscious. And recently a smoking ban finally came into force. At the Pi del Migdia, nestled in the pines of El Tartar, we basked on a fabulous sun terrace even though we were there in December. For non-skiing partners, it’s an attractive destination too, as it offers activities that aren’t all highadrenalin activities for the sporty. With duty-free drinks and a lot of live music, Andorra is a popular après-ski destination with a mainly English-speaking crowd. And, uniquely, Andorra offers less sporty visitors the chance to shop till they drop on duty-free alcohol, perfumes and electronics in Pas de la Casa or the capital Andorra la Vella (confusingly referred to by locals as Andorra), after which they can relax in the giant Caldea spa.


20 Andorra

Non-skiers are treated in Andorra thanks to duty free shopping, and a vast range of activities But what I was itching to do was some cinematic off-piste, so I headed for the freeride area via the draglift at Pic d’Encampanada to carve beautiful graffiti in the fresh powder I found there. There are a growing number of easy-access off-piste possibilities. There are six lift-served unpisted itinerary runs marked on the map, above El Tarter and the quiet village of Canillo. The resort will only open them when the avalanche risk is low, and in late afternoon the ski patrol swoops the area, so you don’t need to go with a mountain guide. Three of the itineraries down to Riba Escorxada were originally served by a curious caterpillar-tracked vehicle – the ‘ratrac’. This is essentially a piste basher that can tow a few dozen people up the mountain. It was taken out of service following the installation of the Encampadana drag lift. However, such was the clamour among fans to reinstate the ratrac — the ride itself is rather fun — that Grandvalira has brought it back to open up another dedicated freeride area below the Encampadana peak. It runs at weekends between 10am and 2pm and is free to use. Queues do build up so allow half an hour or so for getting back to the top. Leaving El Tartar on the Espiolets chairlift, which serves Andorra’s biggest snowpark and also gives great views of the action, we headed to Encamp and Canillo. These have the

sunniest, cruisiest runs surrounded by lush forest of bright green pines, with the scent of cones wafting in the sun, though the pistes can suffer when it’s hot. Dodging a few bare patches, we carved our way down the easy Rossinyol, with spectacular views of Spain. We had reached the far side of Grandvalira, but of course had skied only a fraction of its runs.

The mountain restaurants are a far cry from many in the Alps Nonetheless, it was time for some Catalan specialities in a traditional Andorran ‘borda’ — a former barn converted into atmospheric restaurants high in the mountains. Andorrans eat late — every borda is deserted until 8.45pm, when families with beautifully behaved young children trooped in. But that was too late for us. After our action-packed day, and as a final peace offering to assuage PJ and Michael’s envy (and to assuage our guilt) the four of us were by then bobbing around in the spa back at the Hermitage. Colin travelled as a guest of The Hermitage (00 376 870 679; sporthotels.ad) in Soldeu. Crystal Finest (0871 971 0364; crystalfinest.co.uk) offers a week half board there, with free access to its spa (over-14s only), from £1,309 per person, including return flight and transfers.

Back by popular demand, the ‘ratrac’ tows skiers


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Ski+board

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7

The challenge:

7 RESORTS in 7 DAYS

24

RESORTS

Innsbruck is dwarfed by lofty peaks

IN

days

Strap in for a high paced holiday with Tom Ewbank, as the Ski Club’s video producer, sets out on a road trip around the Austrian Tirol ticking off seven resorts in seven days.


25 7 RESORTS in 7 DAYS

The aqua dome at Längenfeld

The boys enjoy schnapps in a hot tub — cosy

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April 2015

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I

think it’s a fair assumption that when most people head off on a ski holiday they’re unlikely to attack all of the runs and itineraries on offer. It would also be quite a mission to sample all the bars, restaurants, and activities available. It is, after all, called a holiday for a reason. But what about a holiday with no relaxing allowed? One where the task is to cram as much in as possible? After all, you can sleep when you t h e cu lmin atio n get back. The challenge? of seven fr an tic an d Seven resorts in seven e x c itin g d ays o f days. But not just arrive, t i ro lean clu tu r e ski a few runs, and head off. No. Seven resorts, cramming a week’s worth of fun into a single day at each. The location? The Austrian Tirol. If you’ve been you’ll know its worth as a ski region with its friendly locals, a fantastic snow record, pine forests, chocolate box villages and worldrenowned après-ski. And to capture it all, we had a film crew in tow with a mandate to keep on filming, whatever the outcome. This feature is the culmination of seven of the most frantic and exciting days of filming I’ve ever been involved in. What we experienced can only be described as a melting pot of Tirolean culture, which both exhausted us and rejuvenated our love for this beautiful region.


1

s t a n t o n | They say what happens in St Anton

stays in St Anton. And, in keeping, our first day in the Tirol was one to remember. In just 24 hours from touchdown at Innsbruck airport we learnt how to make a pair of skis at the SPURart workshop, embarrassed ourselves in front of Olympic Slalom Champion Mario Matt, had an impromptu tour of St Anton from a gang of newly qualified British instructors, and spent an evening behind the scenes at the much-fêted Mooserwirt with Eugen Scalet, one of the founding fathers of modern-day après-ski.

Who said Brits aren’t good ski instructors?

2 7 RESORTS in 7 DAYS

26

Ischgl’s Shapes in White festival

in St Anton we made tracks to Ischgl — famed for its all-star opening and closing concerts. With news that the 24-year-old four-seater Pardatschgratbahn had been replaced with a 28-seater gondola this season we were hoping for a seamless ascent up the mountain. Our visit coincided with the annual ‘Shapes in White’ festival where teams from across the world battle it out to create the best snow sculpture. This year’s theme, talent show judges, left the UK entrants — brothers Justin and Simon Scott, who have taken part in the contest 11 times — with one obvious choice: to craft a giant Simon Cowell snow sculpture. Measuring in at four-metres high, the X-Factor boss looks even more disturbing than on our screens.

3

o b e r gu rg l | Another resort, and this time a history lesson. In 1931 the Swiss physicist Auguste Piccard took off from Augsburg, Germany, in a pressurised aluminium capsule attached to a large hydrogen balloon. His destination was the stratosphere, the second major layer of our atmosphere, which begins at six miles high. He made it nine miles up, but ended crashing on the glacier at Obergurgl. He survived, and the world’s media travelled to the small farming village to report the event. It became global news, and people began travelling to see the balloon and where it landed, and so hailed the start of tourism to the resort. Lesson over, we joined Ski Club members for a quick ski, only to sneak away for an epic Austrian feast at the Hohe Mut Alm restaurant. Stuffed, we hurried to Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a few hours’ relaxing in the thermal springs of the Aquadome — the perfect antidote to another packed day. Except, for us, it was back in the wagon and on to Innsbruck.

The Hohe Mut Alm in Obergurgl

isch g l | Recovering from the effects of a night

The boys admire the view

4

n o r d k ette | Despite our hotel’s location bang in the centre of Innsbruck, the funicular to Nordkette departed just five minutes’ walk away. A mere 20 minutes later we broke through the clouds, arriving at the top, only to discover there were no pistes… just very steep off-piste couloirs. To say the first run of the day was a baptism of fire would be an understatement. There is a snowpark and some marked runs, but these are few and far between. Gnarly morning over, we checked in at the European headquarters of Burton Snowboards for a flying visit before — fearing our adrenaline levels dropping — we headed off for a new challenge: climbing inside a giant metal torpedo before throwing ourselves down the Olympic bobsleigh track…


5

A xa m e r L iz u m | It’s a short hop in the wagon

from Innsruck to the Axamer Lizum ski resort, home of Alpine events in both the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics. In spite of strong winds we spent the day searching out pockets of powder with a crack team of skiers, including SPURart’s owner, Michi Freymann (absolute nutter) and Amplid pro-skier Andi Nitsche. In need of a (well-earned) drink, we paid a visit to the Backyard, a beautiful old farmhouse that has been converted into a snowboard lodge, complete with wood-fired hot tub and sauna overlooking the Zillertal Valley. It’s a magical setting, made even better by the option of an authentic Argentinean asado — a barbecue — prepared by the hosts, Jurgen and Noe.

A rider at Air+Style in Innsbruck

7

K i tzb üh e l | Seven in seven, and our final port

of call. Waking to 60cm of fresh snow and beautiful views over picturesque Kitzbuhel, we were keen to explore as best we could in limited time. We were joined by Freeride World Tour legend Matthias Hauni, and his girlfriend, Monika, who have been skiing the mountains around Kitzbuhel all their lives and knew exactly where to take us to get deep untracked pillow lines. With only two hours on the snow, we’d hardly conquered the mountain, but we’d certainly made a dent. At least it gives us an excuse to return, albeit at a rather slower pace of life.

Lift off! Powder in Kitz

To watch the boys’ adventure in the Tirol check out the Snowcast skiclub.co.uk/snowcast

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April 2015

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27 7 RESORTS in 7 DAYS

6

zillertal ar eN a | Waking up to torrential rain is never fun. Little did we know, as we drove up the Zillertal Valley to Zell am Ziller, that there would be a deep blanket of fresh powder waiting for us. The Zillertal Arena is famous among Tiroleans and Bavarians for its non-existent lift queues, and some of the best tree skiing in the region. It’s exhausting skiing knee-deep powder all day, but as we’d come to learn nights are as important as days when ticking off resorts at a rate of knots. Back in Innsbruck we were off to the world famous Air+Style snowboard event. It’s been running for 20 years, and is Europe’s best-known big air event. With Germany’s most famous rapper Cro — we hadn’t heard of him either — and Shaun White’s band, Bad Things, on stage, combined with many of the world’s best snowboarders, and the heaviest blizzard I’ve ever witnessed, the whole event made for an unforgettable evening.


Group skiing

28

PALLY IN A CHALET Organising a group ski holiday can seem like a challenge — but there are ways to avoid the pitfalls and make it stress-free, says Daniel Elkan.

Consider this statistic. Five million people in the UK say they are skiers, but fewer than one million go on a ski holiday every year. Why? It could be the cost: it can be difficult to get a week on the slopes for less than £1,000, all in. And of course, not everyone has holiday time left come winter. But I would argue that a significant cause is simply a lack of ski holiday organisers arranging holidays on behalf of their friends, family or colleagues. And as someone who organises a ski holiday for friends every year, I can understand why. Group ski holidays can be the best thing in the world, but the logistics of getting there can feel like a mountain of work. However, sitting in the bubbling hot tub of our chalet, delighted faces hovering above the bubbling water, with snowflakes melting as they hit us, it all feels worth it. Yet we wouldn’t be here if I hadn’t followed my holiday-organising guidance, learnt in my 15 years’ arranging ski trips. It’s counter-intuitive, but the biggest enemy of the ski-holiday organiser is choice: the more of it, the more difficult to get consensus. If you send an email to your friends suggesting several resorts or dates, you’ll receive a tide of emails discussing the options — yet no decision. So for our trip, I did things differently. I found a suitable resort and chalet, and

privately consulted a couple of friends to check it was ticking the important boxes for them. Only then did I send sent it to a wide group of friends as a fait-accompli — take it, or leave it. The resort I chose — Oz en Oisans — is a small village, yet part of the 250km Alpe d’Huez ski area, and a vast mountain playground. Our chalet, run by the small independent company SmallWonders, wasn’t even in the village, but a few minutes’ drive away by complimentary chalet shuttle service.

Communal areas encourage socialising That said, by picking a property that wasn’t centrally located, we had a far more spacious, quality chalet, given our budget. The only travel option I offered was to go by train, but it’s a good way for a bunch of friends to make the journey a part of the holiday. From the moment we met at St Pancras and boarded the Eurostar to Paris on


Saturday afternoon, the prosecco corks were popping and people were enjoying the train bar as if it were a high-speed living room. With 25 excited people arriving at the chalet at once, you can imagine the chaos there would have been if rooms were allocated on arrival. Instead, I’d pre-planned the configuration with the chalet manager, Richard. He knew the chalet; I knew the people, and had paired and grouped people in advance. When organising the holiday, I’d been something of a benign dictator — simply to minimise the admin. But once there, people could make all their own decisions. It was great to see friendships formed and strengthened in little groups by daily forays and exploration of the ski area. 25 people is too many to ski altogether at once,

Daniel’s

top tips for organising group trips

Narrow the choice

Choose one or two ski resorts that are most suitable for your group and then focus on finding accommodation or packages to only these resorts. Similarly, don’t offer a choice of holiday dates — choose just one.

Focus on the priorities

Don’t try to please everyone

The old maxim ‘you can’t please all the people all the time’ is never truer than on ski holidays. Look for options that will make most people really happy, even if they won’t suit everyone.

Suggest only one option

Chalet Lingayoni on the outskirts of Oz but even in such a large ski area the sub-groups were able to all meet up for coffees or lunch, and après-ski on the Folie Douce terrace. And at dinner the conversations were animated, with everyone sharing tales from the day’s skiing, and excitement about the next. The outdoor hot-tub became a social focus, culminating in a party where at any one time about 18 people were trying to slither into a space designed for nine, and bubbles of all types flowed beyond 5am, with génépi shots being a prominent feature throughout the evening. Did people have a good time? Hell yeah. Will I organise another trip like this next year? Ok, twist my arm… Daniel Elkan’s group travelled independently and stayed at SmallWonders’ Chalet Lingayoni (smallwonders.eu). Train travel was booked using the Groups department of Voyages SNCF (voyages-sncf.com). For more information see: oz-vaujany.com Fancy an organised group break? Freshtracks has hundreds of holidays skiclub.co.uk/freshtracks Ski+board

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Once you’ve done your research, send the most suitable option to your friends as a fait-accompli. Before doing so, canvass opinion and discuss options privately, to make sure the offering is suitable.

Test your invite

If you are going to send an invite or details about the proposed ski holiday to a wide group of friends, then send a draft to one or two friends first, and ask for feedback. This will identify any questions or missing information.

Choose a shared chalet

If you want to stay in a catered chalet, booking into a shared chalet may be easier than going for sole-occupancy and needing an exact number of people for your holiday to go ahead.

Over-invite

If you have a certain number of people in mind for your group, over invite. There may be unexpected drop-outs, and you don’t want to be in a position where you are suddenly dependent on finding more people at short notice.

Encourage people to invite friends

If you are happy for people to invite their friends along too, then encourage them to do so. This will make you less reliant on your own direct friend circle in order to fill the places and give you new buddies to ski with.

Don’t ask for deposits initially

When putting an option to the group, don’t ask for deposits initially — you’ll only scare people off. Instead, ask people to let you know if they are interested. Then, once you have the requisite number of interested people, let everyone know the trip is going ahead — and only then request deposits.

29 Group skiing

You can’t have everything that you would ideally want in a ski holiday, and by trying to arrange the ‘perfect’ trip you’ll end up driving yourself crazy trying to tick unrealistic boxes. So just focus on what’s most important.


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31 can’t wait for the weekend

CHRISTOFFER SJOSTROM

CAN’T WAIT FOR THE WEEKEND The season’s end is on the horizon, but don’t let that put you you off making a last minute dash to the Alps, says Rosie Barcroft You’ve probably heard: the 2014-15 season is shaping up to be a rather decent one. It took a while coming. Throughout Christmas many of the Alps’ lower altitude resorts were bereft of snow, with many unable to fire up their lifts until the New Year week. It made for a sorry state of affairs, and dramatic newspaper headlines claimed skiers would, in future, look further afield for their skiing holidays.

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This simply isn’t the case. Travelling afar simply isn’t an option for the majority of British skiers because long-haul travel requires more money and more time away from work. With April just around the corner (heralding a new financial year, and a replenished holiday supply) the season is nearing an end, so a week away may seem unfeasible this winter. But I knew I could sneak away for a weekend without anyone really noticing.


can’t wait for the weekend

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Les 3 Vallées / David Andre

And now, I’m whizzing up the mountain in one of Courchevel’s high-speed gondolas headed for a day cruising around the slopes. What’s more, the pistes are empty and there’s 20cm of fresh snow underfoot. With only a few days of ripping, I’d planned a safari around the Three Valleys — the world’s largest interconnected ski area — in the hope of seeing as much of the vast domain as is possible in a weekend. From the top of the Courchevel Valley we headed straight for Méribel — host resort of the 2015 Alpine Skiing World Cup Finals, which take place later this month — down the blues and reds that descend below the jagged Dent de Burgin peaks towards the town. By now the sun was powering through the cotton-ball clouds, and the fresh snow puffing around my feet. The weekend was only just getting underway, but it was certainly off to a flying start. After a morning zipping around Méribel’s mainly intermediate pistes, lunch beckoned in earnest — much to my stomach’s delight — at the Folie Douce, which continued its alpine domination this season when it opened its latest branch in the nearby resort of Megève. Sitting just below the mid-station of the Saulire Express, the camp cabaret was already in full swing.

The sun was powering through the cotton-ball clouds Sliding through the excited throng of spectators watching a striking lady singing Big Spender, I made my way into La Fruitière, the Folie’s restaurant. “It’s amazing, isn’t it?” came the voice from behind me as I eagerly accepted my main: seafood with courgettes, carrots and fresh herbs in a butter sauce. I turned to see a dark, curly-haired lady smiling at me while watching the show outside through the floor-to-ceiling windows. “That’s my daughter out there”, she added, pointing at a tall brunette wearing a bowler hat, sparkly gold shorts and stilettos, performing a well-rehearsed routine. The daughter Les 3 Vallées / David Andre

Courchevel’s image is one of glitz and glamour

Skiers escape the mêlée of the world’s largest ski area turned, saw her mother watching and cheekily winked. Lunch was over in just enough time to make the return lifts to Courchevel. And a confession: I’d failed in my safari. I’d hoped to take in all three valleys in one day, but the lure of the ‘Folly’ — as plummy ‘seasonaires’ dub it — was too great. Après ski now dominated my mind, and knowing I only had one day left on skis I made hasty tracks to the Fire & Ice bar back ‘home’ in Courchevel 1650. Served in ice glasses, the shots and cocktails are classified according to their alcoholic percentage. Having gained drinking confidence earlier, I eschewed the piste verte and bleue instead opting to dive straight in for the piste rouge, a concoction made from a mix of strawberries and vodka. The next day I needed to get my skates on. I still wanted to tackle the third of the Three Valleys and with just one day remaining time was of the essence. Val Thorens may have a reputation that precedes itself — yes, it is ever popular with university groups — but in reality it offers a real diversity. Only a few years ago, the resort’s first five-star hotel, the Altapura, opened. It was the rose amongst many thorns — namely ugly high-rise apartments. And it paved the way for change: since then the four-star Hotel Val Thorens has been completely gutted and refurbished, and most recently a second five-star hotel, the Koh-i-Nor, opened its doors to those with cash to splash. But it’s still a resort far from the glitz and glamour of Courchevel. Competitive sport plays a major part in life here, most notably at the Ski Cross course, which hosts a stage of the World Cup each season. Normally in town before Christmas, this year the race was delayed until January


because of the lack of snow in the early weeks of the season. I stand in the finish area watching the competitors hurtle down the course at teeth-clattering speed. They fling themselves off the final jump — four abreast — with everything to play for. It makes for dramatic viewing, and even despite the lack British entries in the final I find myself jumping up and down with excitement. Which reminded me, I had to race back to Courchevel before the lifts closed. Inspired by the racers, I jumped off the small precipice, rushing to the chairlift. Settling down, I realised just 15 minutes remained until the next lift I needed closed. The racers’ time trial might have been over, but mine was just beginning…

Three nights’ half-board at the three-star Chalet Emily in Courchevel 1650, costs from £562pp with Ski Weekends (skiweekends.com), including flights, transfers, afternoon tea and wine with dinner.

Ski Club Ambassadors are based in Courchevel, Méribel, and Val Thorens. For more information see skiclub.co.uk

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BACKCOUNTRY to THE FUTURE Innovations in technology mean backcountry equipment is now lighter and more advanced than ever says Gabriella Le Breton knows the kit you need. ski technology

34

MTN Approach System

£530

Touring and snowboards are not a match made in heaven. Until now, riders have been faced with the choice of snowshoeing or using splitboards, which are expensive and, despite improvements, still don’t offer the same ride experience as the best boards. Now, however, there’s another option: the MTN Approach System incorporates 134cm long, wood-core skis fitted with permanent skins that fold in three to slot neatly into a dedicated 35-litre backpack. It has straps your board. The skis and pack weigh in at a respectable 5.4kg and the designers have incorporated a collapsible outer ski pole carrier, and fitted three grommets at the bottom of ski-carry pocket to allow melted snow to drain out, keeping the main compartment dry. mtnapproach.com

Rottefella NTN Freedom bindings from £316 Rottefella, which translates from Norwegian into ‘rat trap’, has been crafting bindings since 1927. Founding father, Bror With, joked with Crown Prince Olav that the revolutionary split toe bindings he wore at a ski race were “just a couple of rat traps from the hardware store”. Rottefella has gone on to pioneer New Telemark Norm (NTN) bindings, which combine the simplicity and security of an alpine binding. Available in two sizes, the NTN Freedom bindings also offer a ‘Power Tube’ — a spring that creates tension to reflect your weight, skiing ability and style. The low-weight (1.5kg) bindings offer a 60 degree opening angle while walking, easy-to-use sideways release system, a rotation point behind the toe and two heights of heel lifter (35mm or 65mm) for different inclines. bergzeit.co.uk

Dynafit Beast DIN 16 bindings £660 If you’re cranking up your touring bindings to a 16 DIN, you’re going to know a thing or two about the sport, and be willing to stomach the price tag of these Dynafit Beast bindings. The Beast DIN 16s were developed by Dynafit’s pro freeride skiers, who need ultimate security in ‘NFZs’ (no fall zones). In addition to the normally off-the-scale DIN setting, the Beast boasts an exceptionally low stand height and just a 6 degree ramp angle from toe to heel. Its alpine-esque toe piece pivots laterally for a flexible feel and, together with the rear pivot points, enabling vertical movement, improves energy absorption and combats premature release when landing jumps. The pivot points also help you to achieve your optimum stride pattern when touring, while the frameless design lessens the weight for the ascent. ellis-brigham.com


Black Diamond Carbon Compactor poles £109

Madshus eMpower XC skis from £350 Many Norwegians learn to cross-country ski before they learn to swim — it’s more a national obsession than a hobby. And don’t get them started about the art of waxing their cherished skis or you’ll find yourself trapped in endless discussion as to when, where and how to use grippy kick wax and smooth slide wax. But now, thanks to K2 Outdoor — the parent company of the 119-year-old Norwegian cross-country ski brand Madshus — there’s an app for that. Yes really. The Madshus eMpower XC skis are the world’s first smart skis, equipped with a microchip to alert you when they need a wax among other things. Here’s how it works: go into a shop and share your height, weight, ability and ski style with the staff, who will match the data with the radio-frequency identification chips inserted into each ski during production to select your perfect ski. Once you’ve bought your skis, download the Madshus app and pair your phone with them. The app will log your ski outings — mapping the trail, distance, calories burned — and also recommend the best type of wax to apply based on your location, the weather and snow conditions. ekosport.co.uk Ski+board

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hit

Swiss company Colltex has produced skins — and nothing else — for almost 70 years. Used when backcountry touring, skins — once made from seal skin, hence the name — are attached to the ski’s base enabling them to slide forward but not backwards. The technology has come a long way in recent years and skins are now synthetic, with mohair skins and glue-less skins available on the market. Colltex’s latest offering, the Whizzz Skins range, features an innovative acrylic-based adhesive layer, which means they stick to your ski bases but not to everything else in sight (as many skins do). Unfolding, attaching and detaching them is easy and there’s no need for fiddly protective casing or messy re-glueing. The eco-friendly materials used are sturdy, and can be used in all temperatures. colltex.ch

Black Diamond Whippet ski pole

miss

£74.99 The Whippet is a telescopic ski pole with a built-in self-arrest ice pick. It’s also available in carbon fibre, shaving 45g off the weight, but this adds £25 to the price tag. It’s the go-to product for skiers and riders venturing to extreme terrain that involves steep, icy bootpacks and no fall zones. Both the aluminium and carbon Whippets feature Black Diamond’s ultra reliable ‘FlickLock Pro’ locking mechanism, while the stainless steel pick embedded in the pole’s grip may save you from sliding into serious trouble. So what’s the problem? Black Diamond discovered a fault with the pick, and issued a worldwide recall notice for all models purchased between May 2013 and January 2014, making this product a ‘miss’. So what is the solution? If there’s a notch in your pick, and the metal is also shiny, polished steel, return it for a new one. Full details of the recall can be found at blackdiamondequipment.com

35 ski technology

Whether you’re into snowboarding, ski touring, snowshoeing or hiking, these compactable poles will come in handy. At the push of a button, each super lightweight pole (just 260g) collapses into three pieces to shrink down to a mere 38cms in length. To return them to their full length, simply pull the Kevlar cord that runs through the carbon interior — much like you would deploy an avalanche probe. The relatively large powder baskets (10cm in diameter) slot neatly around the pole when collapsed, making these easy to stash into a backpack or ski bag. blackdiamondequipment.com

Colltex Whizzz skins from £115


best for part ing boom, boom, clap, clap. ski holidays are nothing without dancing, and we know the resorts that are party ready

resort insider

36

It’s a myth that every ski resort has a vast number of bars with people dancing on the tables — in ski boots — and music thumping until the small hours. And thank heavens for that, as not everyone is looking for an Ibiza-style entertainment. But there’s a good number of people who want just that. Europe traditionally has the best après-ski, with Austrian resorts long leading the way. But other countries are catching up, and even resorts across the pond are getting their dancing shoes on.

15% 33%

22% 30%

Pistes Our pie charts show how resorts grade pistes according to difficulty, showing what percentage are black, red, blue or green (but Austrian, Swiss and some Italian areas don’t have green runs). Ski hire We put the list price of six days’ ski-only hire at Skiset, but Ski Club members can get up to 50 per cent off if they book online. Lift pass Prices are for a six-day adult pass during high season.

Writers: Abigail Butcher, Ben Clatworthy, Colin Nicholson

Alpe d’Huez Why there? confirmed party credentials as snowboxx heads to town Set on a sunny plateau south of Grenoble, Alpe d’Huez has been a perennial favourite of party-goers but in recent years has really risen up the ranks. Last season La Folie Douce brought a touch of St Tropez glam to the resort, and this March it hosts the Snowboxx music festival for the first time. There is something to suit all tastes here, from the Irish pub O’Sharkeys to the cocktail bar Lounge 21. Always popular for après-ski and later in the evening are the Undverground Bar (free snacks and live music) and Smithy’s Tavern is often heaving. There are four nightclubs/discos to choose from — La Grotte de Yeti, Le Sporting, L’Igloo and Les Caves des Alpes.

Can’t ski, won’t ski: Alpe d’Huez is known as the “island in the sun” thanks to its 300 days of sunshine a year, so non-skiers can soak up the rays on its 35km of walking and hiking routes. There’s also an Olympicsized ice rink and outdoor pool, sports centre and plenty of shopping. There are events running all season from a comedy film festival in January to snow-biking competition in April, or take to the air and go by helicopter to Les Deux Alpes for just €75. AB

+ Hardcore skier, party

animal, or simply looking for a relaxing holiday, there is something for everyone here

What we think Snow Lifts Lack of queues Restaurants Mountain food Charisma Ski schools Low budget Off-piste

12% 31% 31% 26%

how much? Lift pass £200 Transfer 70mins

– Like many French purpose

built resorts, it’s pretty ugly

altitude 1,110m-3,330m 3,610ft-10,920ft alpedhuez.com


What we think

mayrhofeN Why there? eat, ski, rave, repeat…

Can’t ski, won’t ski: Nearby Innsbruck — easily reached by bus or train — makes a great day trip excursion. In resort there’s a sports complex with pools and a spa. BC

11%

26%

37

63%

+ This is the party capital of the Alps,

but it’s also home to great skiing in a lovely rural setting

– Beginner terrain is limited, while the size of the town means a car is almost vital (or a taxi budget) if you want to see it all

how much? Lift pass £190 Transfer 55mins

mayrhofen.at

What we think

VERBIER Why there? a hot spot for skiing hard and partying even more Verbier has been cultivating its reputation as the “Ibiza on snow” for several years now, with the likes of Goldfish — a South African electronica and dance group — making appearances at Farinet bar, and this winter the young sensation DJ Martin Solveig partnered with the resort’s new supper club, L’Etoile Rouge. Another new addition this season is Le Mouton Noir at Ruinettes (think Folie Douce in Switzerland). Last year, the W Hotel upped the ante with its chic bar adding to the resort’s long list of drinking venues.

Ski+board

April 2015

skiclub.co.uk

Can’t ski, won’t ski: Verbier is a serious skiers’ resort, but there’s plenty to keep non-skiers entertained. There are 20km of marked hiking trails, as well as well-maintained tobogganing slopes. If spas are your thing, book a treatment at the hotel Cordée des Alpes and you get to use the gorgeous spa for the whole day (massages start at CHF55). There’s also ample shopping — a second-hand boutique opened this year — eating, a cinema, ice rink, public swimming pool, yoga and even a library. Failing that, people-watching here is great so grab a drink and enjoy the view. AB

+ You could be rubbing shoulders with anyone from Prince Harry to Sir Richard Branson

– Not a cheap place to stay or ski

verbier.ch

Snow Lifts Lack of queues Restaurants Mountain food Charisma Ski schools Low budget Off-piste

28%

43%

29%

how much? Lift pass £240 Transfer 120mins

altitude 1,5000m-3,025m 4,920ft-9,920ft

resort insider

Mayrhofen is the daddy when it comes to party towns. It’s also become many ski festivals’ hub resort. It’s home to the infamous and truly raucous Snowbombing festival (April 6-11) — this year featuring Rudimental, Basement Jaxx, and Gorgon City — as well as the Altitude Comedy Festival (March 23-27). This year’s line-up includes Bill Bailey and Sean Lock. And the skiing is epic too. The resort is home to what claims to be one of Austria’s steepest pistes, Harakiri, which descends down the valley. It’s a fun ski, but avoid the beers beforehand if you hope to make it in one piece.

Snow Lifts Lack of queues Restaurants Mountain food Charisma Ski schools Low budget Off-piste


What we think

WHISTLER resort insider

38

Why there? Biggest ski area in North America with good ski-3in, ski-out Whistler-Blackcomb is the closest you’ll get in North America to a European-style mega ski area. But in addition you get easy access to copious amounts of West Coast powder, with Whistler’s off-piste routes and powder bowls. Otherwise the weather in British Columbia is, well, very British, so you can enjoy the après-ski in the central plaza, often with live bands there. Around here you find many bars and a good, if not cheap, range of restaurants. British Columbian wines are some of the best on the continent — particularly the ice wines.

What we think Snow Lifts Lack of queues Restaurants Mountain food Charisma Ski schools Low budget Off-piste

11% 30%

59%

how much? Lift pass £170 Transfer 90mins

Can’t ski, won’t ski: Most attractions are within walking distance of the plaza, which has a thriving community, with boutiques and galleries often specialising in Native American art. Spas include the Scandinave and one at the Fairmont, with outdoor pools. And there’s après-ski. By 4pm the party is in full swing at the Garibaldi Lift Company. Order a Caesar cocktail — a Canadian speciality — that typically contains vodka, Clamato (tomato and clam juice) and Worcestershire sauce. CN

Snow Lifts Lack of queues Restaurants Mountain food Charisma Ski schools Low budget Off-piste

27%

18%

55%

how much? Lift pass £260 Transfer 100mins

+ Huge annual snowfall – As a purpose-built resort, some find it too artificial

altitude 650m-2,285m 2,140ft-7,490ft

whistlerblackcomb.com

cervinia Why there? Italy isn’t famed for its après-ski, but cervinia tries If you’re just starting out on skis (or a snowboard, for that matter) there are few resorts to rival Cervinia for gentle beginner terrain. It’s also the perfect destination for those who enjoy cruising wide, uncrowded slopes. Set at the foot of the iconic Matterhorn, and just across the border from Swiss Zermatt (lift-linked to Cervinia), the resort boasts some of the best Alpine scenery. Complete beginners can purchase a limited lift pass for just €16, and then progress to the gentle blue runs. Anyone visiting should book a table at the chocolate box Rifugio Guide del Cervino, which serves traditional cuisine. Once the sun dips behind the Matterhorn head to the Copa Pan bar, which is lively from teatime.

Can’t ski, won’t ski: Cervinia isn’t the natural choice for non-skiers — there are other Italian resorts that offer more in the way of variety. That said, all the usual suspects are on offer. Many hotels have swimming pools with spa facilities, while there’s also fitness centre in the town and natural ice rink, which is open during the day (and in the evenings) seasonlong. However, there a very few mountain walks, and the ones that are available are on the short side. Non-skiers are allowed to ride the gondola, however there are limited restaurants accessible using the lifts. BC

+ A fantastic setting for beginners with wonderful views of the Dolomites

– Little terrain to excite

expert skiers, and litte for non-skiers

cervinia.it


Members’ benefit

When you’re heading off to the mountains, it’s important to know that you’ve got the cover you need. By choosing Ski Club travel insurance you’ll be sure you’re getting a policy designed by knowledgeable snowsports experts. All of our policies cover on and off-piste skiing and snowboarding (with or without a guide), plus a variety of other winter and summer sports activities – so whatever your travel plans this year, get covered with Ski Club insurance. Policies include: + Single or Annual Multi-Trip + Skiing and snowboarding off-piste without a guide + Individual and family policies available

IMPORTANT INFORMATION + Age limits and loadings apply + Certain hazardous activities may require a supplement + Insurance is subject to completion of a medical declaration + Not available to residents outside the UK, Channel Islands or the Republic of Ireland SKI CLUB INSURANCE IS ARRANGED BY PERKINS SLADE LTD Information about our providers: Ski Club travel insurance is arranged by Perkins Slade Ltd and issued and fulfi lled by P J Hayman & Company Ltd. Ski Club of Great Britain Ltd is an Introducer Appointed Representative of Perkins Slade Ltd, Tricorn House, 51-53 Hagley Road, Birmingham, B16 8TP which is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Perkins Slade Ltd Financial Services register number is 302886. P J Hayman & Company Limited, Stansted House, Rowlands Castle, Hampshire, PO9 6DX are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. Their Financial Services register number is 497103. Sections 1-13 of Ski Club travel insurance is underwritten by AGA International SA and is administered in the UK by Allianz Global Assistance. Allianz Global Assistance is a trading name of Mondial Assistance (UK) Limited, Registered in England No 1710361 Registered Offi ce 102 George Street, Croydon CR9 6HD. Mondial Assistance (uK) Limited are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. AGA International SA is authorised by Autorité

GET THE COVER YOU NEED THIS YEAR 5% DISCOUNT when you buy online Visit skiclubinsurance.co.uk

or call 0845 601 9422

+ Quick online medical screening for pre-existing medical conditions + Covers summer activities as well as winter sports

de Contrôle Prudentiel et Résolution in France and authorised and subject to limited regulation by the Financial Conduct Authority. Details about the extent of our authorisation and regulation by the Financial Conduct Authority are available from us on request. Allianz Global Assistance acts as an agent for AGA International SA for the receipt of customer money, settling claims and handling premium refunds. P J Hayman & Company Limited acts as an agent for AGA International SA for the receipt of customer money and handling premium refunds. Section 14 of Ski Club travel insurance is underwritten by Lloyds Syndicates and is administered by International Passenger Protection Limited, IPP House, 22-26 Station Road, West Wickham, Kent BR4 0PR. International Passenger Protection Limited and Lloyds Syndicates are authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority. International Passenger Protection Limited will act as agent for Lloyds Syndicates for the receipt of customer money and settling claims. On behalf of International Passenger Protection Limited, Allianz Global Assistance and AGA International SA and P J Hayman & Company Limited will act as agent for the receipt of customer money and handling premium refunds. You can check this on the FCA’s Register by visiting the FCA’s website www.fca. org.uk or by contacting the FCA on 0845 606 1234. Policy details correct at time of going to press. Rates valid until 31 July 2015.

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COMING SOON — elevation: YOUR SUMMER FIX WHO SAYS MOUNTAIN BIKING IS TOUGH GOING? From th

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Following in the footsteps of the Von Trapps, Colin Nicholson heads for hills, and wonders which route the family would have walked

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SALMON FISHING IN THE USA Alf Alderson rafts down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River in Idaho

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