Ski Lodge Bulletin #6

BULLETIN SKI LODGE

AS YOU CAN SEE, MARCUS CASTON DOESN’T REGRET MOVING FROM “THE GREATEST SNOW ON EARTH” TO ENGELBERG. READ MORE ABOUT HIS MOVE ON PAGE 50.

SKIING IS BELIEVING

EDITORS

JONSSON

GABRIELLA LIDBERG

OSKAR ENANDER

TOBIAS LILJEROTH

SANNE MONA

LESLIE ANTHONY

SUMMER HUGO MAGNUSSON PHOTO LUKE JARMEY ON THE COVERS

WINTER PIERS SOLOMON PHOTO OSKAR ENANDER

ALL PHOTOS BY OSKAR ENANDER IF NOTHING ELSE IS STATED

All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without permission from the publisher. If you do not obey you will be haunted by snowless winters until the end of time.

/SKILODGEENGELBERG @SKILODGE_EBERG @SKILODGEENGELBERG

PHONE / +41 41 637 35 00

ERLENWEG 36, CH-6390 ENGELBERG

INFO@SKILODGEENGELBERG.COM SKILODGEENGELBERG.COM

Thanks to the great help from europatryck.se this bulletin is printed on 100 % recycled paper.

JOHAN

PUT A RING ON IT

A decade-and-a-half ago, we embarked on a journey that would shape the course of both our own lives and those of countless other mountain lovers. As "The Lodge" celebrates 15 years in Engelberg, it feels like looking back at a long, adventurous marriage. From navigating the slopes of uncertainty to revelling in the powder days of success, every moment has etched a story into our four hotel walls. Some days involve skinning along an icy traverse without crampons while others are sun-in-your-face mornings with champagne powder. But through it all, our love for this place has only deepened.

The magazine you hold in your hand started as a one-off project, but has grown into a cherished chronicle of this village's alpine adventures, with 50,000 annual readers and growing. This year's edition is bigger and better, offering even more stories and never-before-seen photography by the many talented photographers who have visited the valley (but mostly local Maestro of Shadows, Oskar Enander), as well as a look back at Engelberg's evolution into a world-renowned freeriding destination.

As you flip through these pages, take note of the wonders of Engelberg — the best spots for hiking, skiing, and indulging in dinners with friends. Whether you're a familiar face or a newcomer, you're now officially part of our journey with Ski Lodge Engelberg.

Welcome to another edition of the Ski Lodge Bulletin, and remember: “skiing is believing”.

Eric & Niklas

STAFF PICKS

APRÈS FAVORITES

Nothing beats having cold drinks and a few laughs with friends after a big pow day on Titlis, and there’s no place better for that than the buzzing Ski Lodge Bar. Here are a few classics, recommended by our skilled bar staff.

BRAUFRISCH – Unfiltered beer from the castle Feldschlösschen, two hours from Engelberg. The perfect companion to bragging about your cliff drops in Middle Sulz.

JACKSON HOLE – Whiskey and beer mixed into a tasty cocktail and served in a pint glass. We know what you’re thinking, but it’s like a whiskey sour only better. Try it once and you’ll be hooked.

SURFS UP – A seriously refreshing, non-alcoholic cocktail made with grapefruit, lime juice, maple syrup and soda.

KAFFESCHNAPPS – A Swiss classic — coffee laced with a healthy splash of either Kirsch (cherry liqueur) and Zwätschga (plum liqueur), or Träsch (apple or pear liqueur), a cube of sugar. Makes you warm and rosy after a long January pow day.

BEST BURGERS IN TOWN

Not to brag, but we like to think our bar burgers are the best in town by a long shot. Even then, every two weeks over winter we invite a friend to create his or her version of the perfect burger together with our chefs in the ski world’s most prestigious burger contest. Nothing is sacred—the burger can be traditional, vegan or pretty much anything in between. You’ll find the current entry on the chalkboard in the bar as well as on Ski Lodge’s social channels. Don’t miss the chance to cast a vote for your favorite at the end of the season.

QUIZZIN’

During winter we host a Music quiz in the bar on Tuesday nights. Team up with a few buddies, have a couple of beers and some food and show the rest of town who knows the most about music trivia (and pretty much everything else in the world for that matter). The winning team gets a bottle of bubbly to share. And if the quizmaster for the night happens to be Jonas Engelin — aka DJ Tingeling — showing up is mandatory. Period.

GETTING HOT

Having a sauna after a great day of skiing is something we brought with us as part of our Nordic heritage. That’s why you’ll find both a sauna, a hot tub, and occasionally even a bar, on the patio in front of the Lodge. Have a few cold drinks while you feel the heat return to your body after a long day of getting cold face shots. Finns, the undisputed sauna champions of the universe, usually bathe au naturel. We leave it up to you to decide what you want to do, but just be aware that the entire bar might be looking at your white buttcheeks while you cool off in the snow outside…

SECONDHAND IS THE BEST HAND

Ski gear isn’t getting any cheaper, so why not make a good deal on pre-loved stuff instead of buying new? Your wallet and Mother Earth will both thank you. In the small gazebo outside the front desk you can find a selection of used ski and outdoor gear from local pro riders and enthusiasts, looking to be taken on new adventures. Or you can leave the old stuff you’re not using anymore and make some cash on your own. Just ask the front desk and they’ll tell you how it works.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Knowledge is power, and the power to make correct decisions in the mountains is always worth having. Every morning you’ll find the current weather and avalanche forecast on the bulletin board next to the front desk. Please take a minute before you head out each day to inform yourself about recent snowfall and wind conditions, information crucial to making well-informed, safe decisions on the mountain — not to mention where to find the best snow. After all, we want to see you here for après, healthy and sound with a big smile on your face.

For more information, download the White Risk app to your phone, and check out their website at WHITERISK.CH.

DOWN DAY BLUES

Down days tend to happen in the mountains every now and then. For when the lifts aren’t running, here are a few down-day activity ideas from our own staff.

• Gather up a crew and do some avalanche-rescue training. Because, well, you can never be too prepared.

• A beauty treatment at Løvlid Cosmetics. This might be a mountain town, but some relaxing skin work is nice no matter where you are.

• Go play some ice hockey or practice indoor climbing at Sporting Park Engelberg.

• Drop your fat skis off for (probably) a much needed service and tune-up.

• Cross-country skiing at Gerschnialp, the golf course or the night track by the ski jump... followed by après at the Ski Lodge, of course, to brag about all the horizontal meters you've covered.

• Eat a Skier’s Dinner at Brasserie Konrad.

• Have a massage — ask our friendly faces at reception to book you in with Simone or Samira.

KONRAD

International thinking with local foundations. One thing we can’t overlook when talking about our restaurant, Brasserie Konrad, is that it’s the heart of the hotel. As much as we love skiing, it wouldn’t be possible without food. And interest in what we eat each evening (and morning) has always been a big part of The Lodge.

Over the years, we’ve had quite a few different mindsets operating in our kitchen, from meat-lover to vegetarian, French to Japanese. But the thread that runs through everything has always been our Scandinavian roots and focus on local produce. Head chef Oscar Larsson doesn’t want to change that, though he’s always exploring new ways to get more protein-filled vegetarian dishes on the menu.

— In my mind, good vibes in the kitchen yield delicious meals, he says. If you’re happy with where you are and work with good ingredients, the end results will reflect it.

Hailing from the lowlands of Skåne in the South of Sweden, Oscar's culinary journey spans a lifetime devoted to the restaurant industry. While he initially mastered the finesse of French cuisine in Swedish culinary school, his horizons transcend geographical boundaries, drawing inspiration from global gastronomy, particularly Mediterranean and Asian flavors — a mission aided by the wide range of locally produced ingredients.

— We’re lucky to have great farmers and other producers in the valley and nearby areas, so getting what we need, in a sustainable way, is rarely an issue, he says. Respect for ingredients, and a desire to use all of them without throwing anything away, has always been this kitchen’s fundamental principle.

Having traversed kitchens across Australia, Austria, Greece and France, Oscar found himself drawn to this tranquil town, lured by friends' promises of incredible powder days. The vibrant Ski Lodge culture and the town's active lifestyle have influenced his approach toward healthier, more flavourful cooking.

This isn’t an unusual story. Many lodge staff and others in the village came for the proverbial uncrowded Swiss powder but ended up as inhabitants with a new Swiss family — whether literally or figuratively. It’s easy to think that’s mostly because of the stunning mountains, but food culture in Switzerland, though lesser-known than that of its European neighbors, is on closer inspection, equally amazing.

Photo: Kristofer Johnsson

Photo: Sophie Odelberg

Our Cut of the Day is a perfect example. We work almost exclusively with Holzen Fleisch in Ennetbürgen, a 32-minute drive from Engelberg. Why? Because they share our food philosophy. Translating that into a livestock farmer’s world, it means animals that are universally well-treated, aren’t fed anything weird, and aren’t rushed through production. They do it right. Swiss quality. Happy animals. What’s on order in the restaurant comes from Holzen because they send whatever’s best at the moment.

Meat and other foodstuffs are only half the restaurant experience, however, so we can’t forget Swiss wines. If your wine knowledge runs deep, you’re aware of the greatness this little country can produce. For others it will come as a pleasant surprise. The best Swiss wines never leave the country — one reason we’re happy to be here. If you’re a lover of the pinot grape, you’ll probably be excited about the local reds on our wine list.

Cheese is another Swiss speciality, and though that’s no secret, it’s still surprising how many small (even tiny) local producers exist in the Engelberg Valley alone. One of this magazine’s editors, who also happens to be a professional skier, claims he misses the cheese more than the skiing when he’s away… So don’t forget to try our local cheese at breakfast!

What happens when you combine all these ideas? Our menu! Besides regular à la carte offerings, we also produce the beloved daily Skier’s Dinner — a fixedprice, three-course meal that’s as delicious and inventive as the wine pairings that come with it. The philosophy behind this option is that it should make your taste buds just as happy as your legs are tired. There’s always a new ski day tomorrow!

IF YOU’RE NOT INTO A FULL RESTAURANT SIT DOWN, OUR BAR MENU HAS SAVED MANY A TIRED SKIER’S LIFE AFTER AN EPIC POWDER DAY. THE FAMOUS SKI LODGE BURGER MAY BE THE MOST POPULAR ENTRY, BUT IT’S NOT THE ONLY ONE!

Photo: Axel Adolfsson

Photo: Axel Adolfsson

HOTEL INFORMATION

All our ROOMS have en-suite bathrooms, LED TV and free WiFi. Linens are refreshed every fourth day unless you request otherwise. Towels are replaced when left on the floor, so to reduce your environmental footprint hang them above ground!

The RECEPTION is open daily from 7:30 a.m. – 8:00 p.m. Checkout time is 10:30 a.m. on your departure day, or before 8:00 p.m. the night prior to your departure. If you have any questions after hours, you can always ask our friendly bartenders.

BREAKFAST is served from 7:00 a.m. to 10:00 a.m.

The BAR is open daily with small to BIG snacks and our restaurant BRASSERIE KONRAD with its delicious menu is open from 5:30 p.m. Choose between à la carte selections or a prix fixe three-course SKIER’S DINNER

SMOKING is, of course, strictly prohibited inside Ski Lodge. If you ignore this, you’ll find yourself with 500 CHF less to spend during après ski.

Avoid the queues at the base station and purchase your SKI PASS at our reception desk.

Please leave your ski equipment in the SKI AND BOOT ROOM located in the basement of the blue house. We’ve even installed boot warmers for you!

Fancy a SAUNA AND HOT TUB ? They’re both located in our garden and if you need an extra towel or two don’t be shy. Ask the receptionist and they’ll hook you up with fresh ones from their secret stash.

Hiring a MOUNTAIN GUIDE ensures a safe and fantastic day on the mountain. The reception staff can help you book one.

RENTAL SKIS are available at several places. Our front desk staff can help you find the best option for your needs.

We have eight PARKING spots in front of the hotel. If they’re all occupied, ask the staff for the closest option.

The name of our FREE WIFI is Skilodge_net and the password is Nagano98. By all means surf around, but please wait until you’re back home to download every season of the Sopranos.

IN CASE OF EMERGENCY , call 144 for an ambulance or 117 for the police. If there’s a FIRE stay calm and follow the instructions listed on the inside of the door. Fire extinguishers are located by the staircase on every floor.

Our dear Mountain Express minibus provides AIRPORT TRANSFERS in just over an hour. Although the train to the airport leaves from outside the hotel, you’ll have to add another hour to the trip.

If you want to EAT OUT or experience Engelberg’s NIGHTLIFE , our reception staff will clue you in with the latest and greatest info on where to go.

For FOOD AND DRINK SHOPPING , COOP is open 7:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. weekdays, 7:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Saturdays, and 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. Sundays.

Photo: Marcus Caston

STEP INTO THE MOUNTAIN STUDIO

One of the perks of living in a mountain town is that like-minded people are attracted to here as well. So, when we got wind about a new shop opening in town, we couldn't help but be intrigued. There are many great outdoor brands out there (believe us, we've tried them all) so why would this be the one to actually catch our interest?

The Mountain Studio makes top-performing gear for skiing, the outdoors and mountain living. If you’ve noticed our staff walking around being their usual fantastic selves in great-looking shirts, it's because they are. We're thrilled about our partnership with these trailblazers and look forward to many collaborations to come.

If you’re in Engelberg visit them at Dorfstrasse 15 and say hi from us!

// SKI LODGE ENGELBERG CREW

Piers Solomon

Mattias Hargin

BIG FIVE

Yes. We wrote about this before, and we will write about it again. And again. Why? Because it’s simply impossible to get tired of this terrain. Big five — we love you. Today and forever.

LAUB

Laub is… everything. Skiers who mostly enjoy mellow terrain will traverse out to the skiers right and wiggle their way down on the flattest part of the run, while the local speed demons and those comfortable in steep terrain will dive into Langewand, the far skiers left side. In between lies the rest — a few million square meters of powder heaven.

Mattias Hargin

SULZ

The Sulz area is divided into three. Small Sulz starts at the Jochpass restaurant, ends at Trübsee and is a normal warm up run before hitting bigger terrain. Middle Sulz is Engelberg’s cliff-dropping mecca, and runs from Jochstock Express and down towards Trübsee. If you want to spice it up, there are a few (steep) ways down from middle to Big Sulz. Big is… a big valley. Less cliffs and a little easier to navigate than Middle. Hit it on the right day, and your smile will last all the way to the to apres and beyond.

WENDENLÜCKE

Most of the terrain in Wendenlücke requires some hiking from the top of Jochstock Express. This is nothing you will regret, as it takes weeks for everything to get skied even if it’s Engelberg’s most common hike. If you’re not into ski touring, you can just boot pack around the first big rock and drop into Steintal, or simply traverse skiers left under the lift. We truly recommend hiking to the top though, if not for the skiing, then for the views.

Johan Jonsson

Mattias Hargin

STEINBERG

The glacier. This run requires more knowledge, and this is no terrain to take chances in. Know your route, and know how to act around crevasses. The terrain is ultra-rewarding for those who are comfortable in it, though. Big powder fields, steeps, cliffs, seracs, huge cliff walls and small rocks to jump off. Steinberg has it all! Remember to save some energy for the bumpy (but fun!) traverse out on Trübsee.

GALTIBERG

The biggest of the big ones. 2,000 vertical meters of very humbling terrain. We strongly recommend you ski with a mountain guide if you’re not 100% sure about the way down. No other run in the valley makes you feel smaller, but there’s also no other run that will make you happier if the conditions are right. At the bottom of the run, have a schnitzel at Restaurant Wasserfall if it’s lunch, or a beer if it’s afternoon.

Paula Hansen

QUIT YOUR DAY JOB

Richard Howarth lived the rat race in London’s financial world. Then one day, he went skiing in Engelberg and never looked — or moved — back.

IT’S THE FIRST SNOW OF THE SEASON DOWN HERE , says Richard Howarth. Looking out the window of his home in Engelberg’s central village, a thin, white, blanket covers the ground. In his early fifties with salt-and-pepper hair and a measured, undeniably British accent, Richard has called Engelberg home since 2016.

Skiing and climbing may be part of his daily existence now, but not long ago he led a life so strikingly different it may as well have been on another planet: the rat race that is the London financial sector — a busy, bustling lifestyle where you’re measured mostly by the amount of money you make for yourself, your employer or your clients.

— London’s an exciting place to live at a certain age. Everyone’s on a journey, pushing their careers forward, he says.

That constant push usually means working long hours, even weekends. Though you might take time off for a ski trip, work still consumes most of your time and thought.

— You’re either all-in or you’re not, he says. The outcome of your work is the most important thing.

That can be a problem, because the busiest time in the financial sector is January to April, prime months for skiing in the northern hemisphere. And skiing, as it turns out, has always been Richard’s number-one passion. Right next to climbing, something often pursued in a very Keep-Calm-andCarry-On style.

— I remember one time when me and a few friends went climbing in Wales, in like - 20C, staying in a tent, he says. It’s not everyone’s type of fun but we had the time of our lives, and I realized that I was missing out by not doing more of that.

Richard knew he needed change, and that it needed to happen quickly.

— I realized the job was slowly killing me, he recalls. I figured, ‘what’s the point of all this? I just have all this money passing through me.’ I was earning a lot, but also spending a lot.

Plus, he wanted to be able to put some quality time in on the slopes while he still had a strong body; at 45 he was pretty fit from climbing.

— It was an itch that needed scratching, and I didn’t want to wait, he says. So, I bit the bullet and came out here.

Richard’s first visit to Engelberg had been in the early 2010s. The Ski Lodge had just opened and suddenly British ski magazines were writing about Engelberg instead of just rehashing traditional stops on the World Cup calendar. Richard and a few friends ditched Chamonix to come east instead, something that literally changed his life.

— It was snowing when we arrived, and we had the best time ever, he reminisces. At some point I thought: ‘I’m done, I’m sold.’ And from then on, I only skied here.

In 2016 he came for a season, and never really left.

— I intended to spend winters in Engelberg and summers in England, climbing in Wales. But then I met someone and have been here ever since.

IT’S A DREAM MANY SKIERS SHARE but few either have the financial or social freedom to explore, or dare to live to the fullest. Richard was fortunate enough to be well off and, since he didn’t have a family, had little compelling reason to remain in a conventional situation. In fact, he almost felt obliged to make the leap. Still, it wasn’t smooth sailing at first.

— I had to adjust gradually, he says. It was a bit of a shock to the system for the first year, not making any money. The brain goes crazy — like it needs to worry about something.

These days, Richard seems well adjusted to his new life. Sure, there’s some investing to generate income, but he spends far more time thinking about falling snow than falling stock markets.

— The upside of living here is that you know you’re going to be here when the good days arrive, so you’ll get your turns. Plus, knowing your way around the mountain is always reassuring. You do lose the magic of arriving from London and feeling that pang of excitement. You still get it, but the buildup is slower and you’re not in a mad panic.

Still, it’s clear Richard’s focus isn’t what he ran from, but what he ran to. The mountains.

A healthier, less-busy life. And a small village somewhere in the Swiss Alps in the shadow of one of the best ski mountains on the planet.

HOW TO SKI A BIG MOUNTAIN

There’s no better feeling than mastering the control to ski a proper big mountain like the mighty Titlis. If that’s your plan (and it should be), here are a few tips to make your next run the best of your life.

SAFETY FIRST

Have we mentioned this yet? Avalanches are real, and, unfortunately, happen to people just like us. Always, and we mean always, wear an avalanche transceiver and a backpack containing a shovel and probe. Most importantly, because not triggering an avalanche is the best safety protocol going, educate yourself on avalanche and snow safety. Read more about this on page 30.

KNOWING WHEN TO GO (AND WHEN NOT TO)

Do your homework before heading out. Read the daily weather forecast and avalanche bulletins (both can be found next to the front desk in the lobby) and use them to plan your day. Naturally you want to get the most out of your Engelberg ski days and tick off all the famous runs, but in the end, the mountain is in charge; if conditions aren’t in your favour, play it safe and wait until a change for the better.

PARTNER UP

You know the age-old saying There are no friends on a powder day? Forget about that. Skiing is all about friendships and sharing the experience, no matter how deep or fresh the snow might be — not to mention the obvious safety benefits of always skiing with a buddy.

GET PROFESSIONAL HELP — HIRE A GUIDE

When in doubt, hire a pro. You can read more about all the good reasons to ski with one of Engelberg’s world-class mountain guides on page 32.

SAVE YOUR ENERGY

Skiing on a really big mountain is way different from skiing your local hill. Here, you should always plan ahead and be prepared for the unexpected. The weather can change out of the blue or the snow might turn from perfectly skiable powder to difficult breakable crust in a flash — meaning you should always have some extra gas in the tank to get you down the mountain safely. When you’re exhausted, you’re vulnerable.

One way to save energy is not pushing too hard in each turn, like you might when skiing a groomer. Stand in an athletic but relaxed position and keep your balance centred, distributing weight evenly between both feet and using less pressure when edging your skis — unless you really need to, of course. The energy saved on each turn and each run adds up over an entire day to keep you ready for any challenges.

MAKE BIG TURNS BUT NOT TOO BIG

Making short, wiggly turns down Steinberg might seem like a fun idea until you have to stop after 500 metres to catch your breath and rest legs suffering from an overdose of lactic acid. The easiest possible way of saving energy on a big mountain is to turn less — in other words, make bigger turns. The fewer your turns the less you’re tapping into your body’s power reserves, saving precious energy.

We’re not saying you should go full Seth Morrison here. After all, opening up your turn radius too much means generating more speed than you might be used to, puting you in a fight to stay in control when that is one of the most important factors when it comes to successful and safe big-mountain skiing. So, yes, make bigger turns. But unless you’re superhuman, don’t try to lap the Laub in five.

READ THE SNOW

Snow is an element worthy of Nobel prize-level study in both physics and chemistry. An ever-changing organism constantly reacting to the smallest shifts in temperature, solar radiation, and wind. For skiers, this means that different aspects of the same run can vary from windpacked crust to blower pow within a matter of metres.

Seasoned skiers learn how to read the surface and terrain ahead to figure out where the snow is best for turning, knowing even the smallest signs can deliver a hint of what’s going on. For example, a too-smooth surface might mean a treacherous crusty top layer, while a slightly textured top layer might mean softer snow. In the end, reading snow is a true art that takes a lifetime to master, making it even more rewarding when you get it right. You don’t have to think too hard about it to pick up a little more knowledge every day.

DON’T STRESS

Slow down, this ain’t the big city. Being in the mountains is a privilege and something most people in the world aren’t able to enjoy. There’s no need to rush — not even on a powder day with 50 cm of fresh and everyone else on the mountain getting after it with vigorous, restless energy. The true secret to having a great — and ultimately safe — day in the mountains is doing things at your own pace. Relax, take in the surroundings and drop in when you’re ready. There’s no better place to be than on the top of a big mountain, so enjoy it to the fullest. Live in the moment, but remember that there’s another moment coming right after it.

KEEP YOUR EQUIPMENT DIALED

Having dull edges and/or poorly fitted ski boots can ruin the best powder day. Read about some gear basics on page 52 to get the most out of your days.

TIME TO CELEBRATE

A good ski day isn’t complete without a few cold ones with your ski buddies, whether to celebrate your exploits or debrief on your crashes. Fortunately, Engelberg is home to one of the best ski bars in the known alpine universe right here at the Ski Lodge (yes, we’re bragging a little). Order a Braufrisch, kick back and make yourself comfortable — you’ve earned it. PROSCHT!

AVY GEAR

When skiing outside of marked slopes, you must always carry avalanche equipment, and be well-versed in how to use it.

AVALANCHE TRANSCEIVER

Worn close to your body and always turned on.

“On at the car, off at the bar”. Practice often so that you know how to use it.

PROBE

After searching for someone with the transceiver, you need to locate the buried person with a probe, to know exactly where to dig.

SHOVEL

A good, stable one in metal. Not plastic. Digging is the part of an avalanche rescue that takes up most of the time, so get a proper shovel, and learn how to use it.

ADDITIONAL GEAR

A list we could make long, but will keep short. The first additional thing would be to change your regular backpack for an avalanche pack. And in it you should always carry a first aid kit, extra clothes, food and water.

And a charged phone (with local rescue numbers saved), of course. Good for the gram, and life saver in an emergency situation.

SAFETY FIRST

It’s a time-worn saying, but safety really does have to come first. Topping all your “hoping to score powder” goals must be the desire to return home at the end of the ski day. We don’t want to scare you. We’re just keen on seeing you at après — happy and stoked.

Mountain safety is about a lot of things. And the deep knowledge required to understand it all can’t be achieved solely by reading books and then thinking about it. You have to do your time out there, in different conditions. Below are a few basics that will help get you started.

Avalanches, of course, are the biggest danger when skiing off piste. And though there’s nothing like 100% or 0% avalanche danger, three main factors affect where conditions lie on that spectrum: new snow, wind and changes in temperature. The more snow, the more wind and the faster the temperature changes, the more dangerous things can get. When more than one of these are combined, you’re strongly advised to take a step back and be extra cautious in deciding where to ski. A great way to get a head start on conditions is to read the daily Avalanche Report. If you’re unfamiliar with how to understand it, ask a friend or someone else who knows. Conveniently, you can find the report in our hotel lobby.

Don’t ski on your own. We’re not saying “the more the merrier” here, because oversized groups also bring challenges you don’t want to deal with on a big mountain. But you should be two or more at all times, preferably skiing one by one if you’re not absolutely sure about conditions and terrain.

Glaciers featuring buried ice chunks and crevasses are another common hazard in the high alpine, and in Engelberg some of the skiing traverses glaciated terrain. You need to know where you are when skiing on a glacier (and know that you’re skiing on a glacier). Don’t just drop in and follow tracks. Although these might be a good indication on where you can ski, you can’t know that for sure. Plus, on a mountain like Titlis, you might be following the tracks of a pro skier who just jumped a huge cliff. Better to know before you go.

Leave the cowboy mentality at home. It doesn’t matter if you know a lot, or if you were once the world downhill champion, because mountains don’t care. They decide when it’s time to take it easy. Here are a few good words to always keep in mind, especially on so-called epic days: “Backing away from a run can never be the wrong decision.” No snow on Earth is worth risking life and limb for.

And, as always, we happily recommend you take a shortcut to the best and safest skiing by hiring a mountain guide. Here in Engelberg we’re blessed with a whole bunch of them. Read our feature on local guides in this magazine, or ask at reception how to get hold of one.

GET GUIDED

There are few recommendations we’re as sure of as “hire a guide.” It’s at least a win-win-win situation, and those are always worth passing on.

Skiing with a guide has never been mandatory. So it’s easy to think “Well, I know how to ski so I don’t need a guide,” and then stop thinking. This obviously works, and you can choose to both ski and tour on your own. Oh, but did we mention that skiing with a mountain guide is something we can’t recommend strongly enough? And that this is for reasons of both fun and safety?

LET’S START HERE: mountain guides are dedicated skiers, climbers and mountaineers who actually went to school… In. The. Mountains. Just getting accepted to guide school is a great accomplishment, finishing an even greater one. Guides become true specialists in, well, basically everything that can go right — or wrong — in the mountains. They have medical training that skews towards dealing with accidents in inaccessible terrain. They have deep knowledge about avalanche conditions and avalanches — mostly how to avoid them. We could go on for a while here so let’s just cut to the chase: they keep track of the big picture so that you can concentrate on the one in front of you. And, of course, they will find the best possible skiing on any specific day, whether you’re looking to ski powder straight off the lift, go for a short tour, or have a tailor-made mountaineering adventure that suits your level.

Sure, getting home safely every day is more important than skiing good powder, but let’s face it: it’s that epic snow the guide found that you’ll remember and dream about while

grinding in the office the following October. Luckily for you (and us) Engelberg is home to some of the finest guides in the world. That’s a bold statement, but we stand by it. Not only because we’ve had some of our most memorable days in the mountains with local guides, but also because we know what they’re capable of — especially when Instagram is turned off. These humble but sharp mountain professionals will take you to the best possible skiing, and home again, in a safe and fun way.

“But I can see the whole run from the lift, so I can just ski down it, right?” Sounds reasonable, but for those with trained eyes it’s never that simple. Wind, temperature and snowfall can change the snow — and avalanche danger — in minutes. To have a mountain guide by your side who knows every corner of the valley can be a true game changer, someone who can make lemonade out of those wind-scoured lemons.

We like all the guides in the valley. They each do different things and are all awesome in different ways, but we do seem to end up working with the same bunch of beloved go-tos a bit more often. If you want to book one last minute or for your next visit, ask in the reception or swing by the Engelberg Mountain Guide office in town. The spider in the center of the guide web there, Dani Perret, will guide… err, point you in the right direction.

CAMPING WITH A ROPE

The best way to learn how to move safely in the backcountry is to take a course. In Engelberg a range of mountain camps can teach you everything from avalanche basics to advanced ski-mountaineering.

Reading books about different snow layers and rope techniques is good, but nothing beats learning by doing. This applies not only to things you are new to, but also when it comes to refreshing old knowledge.

In camps where you’re surrounded by likeminded backcountry skiers, and mountain guides are giving instructions in real time, you can learn a lot over just one weekend. Skills you and your buddies can practice and refine over the season—then maybe join another, more-advanced camp in the spring or following year. Below are a couple of camps we’ve been to and can stand behind as being good in all aspects.

At Pre Season Camps, which aim to prepare skiers and snowboarders for a new season, there’s normally quite a spectrum of participants, so you’re divided into groups that suit your level. For some there will be a lot of new information, while for others simple reminders of things to keep top-of-mind.

Regardless, these camps are great for everyone no matter their level, arming you with skills that can come handy in an emergency situation — or even during a tricky rappel down to the powder goods.

Big Mountain Camps are a few levels up. You need to be fit and used to big days in the backcountry to tag along. But if you fit the bill, you’re in for the weekend of your life. You’ll travel the Swiss backcountry with experienced mountain guides in search of the best skiing, expanding your skills in rope handling and hard-goods technique along the way. Nights are spent in remote backcountry huts, where, we can assure you, the simple but hearty food you’ll be served might just be the best meal you’ve ever had.

MOUNTAIN-CAMPS.CH hosts a wide range of camps for the dedicated skier, from big mountain and ski-touring camps, to allfemale freeride camps.

LILJEROTH

Over the years in my former job as editor-in-chief of the Swedish ski magazine, Åka Skidor, I had the distinct pleasure and privilege of looking at far in excess of 100,000 images of people skiing down snow-clad mountains — as well as the daunting task of selecting maybe 1,000 of those for publication each season.

Of the dozens of photographers submitting photos, however, one always stood out to me with his eye for balancing light and shadow in near-perfect compositions — Engelberg’s own OSKAR ENANDER . More than just pictures of people skiing, these are true pieces of mountain art.

It always bothered me that there wasn’t enough space to publish more of his images, that so many amazing shots hidden away on hard drives wouldn’t get the chance to be enjoyed by more people. Thankfully, the ones that did make it to publication caused generations of skiers to drop their collective jaws in admiration and awe, sparking dreams and the urge to get out there one day and experience the same thing themselves. In the end, this kind of inspiration is the very point of ski photography, and few on Planet Earth do it better than Oskar Enander.

MOUNTAIN ART

WORDS BY TOBIAS

Marcus Caston

Piers Solomon Mattias Hargin

Marcus Caston

Anne Wangler

Lexi du Pont

Johan Jonsson

LITTLE PATAGONIA

The ski-touring terrain between Gross Titlis and Spannorrt is so big, so seemingly untouched, that it's been dubbed Little Patagonia. Keen on a big adventure? Let’s push further.

Even though we never get tired of the short hike to Wendenlücke or the views from Gross Titlis, we sometimes get the urge for “proper” touring missions. Big water bottles. Early starts. Weary legs.

There are quite a few such tours in the Engelberg Valley, and, as always, hiring a mountain guide is the best way to unlock them — especially if you’re venturing into the terrain some call Little Patagonia.

If you want to take the shortcut to South America, you’ll start the same way as Engelberg’s original big outing — the Titlis Rundtour. Before you even leave the ski area your knowledge of snowpack stability and airy hikes are tested, as the route to the first rappel can sometimes be the most exciting thing on the whole tour!

Some skiing, a couple of rappels, and a 600-vertical-meter hike up and over the Wendengletscher later and you’re at the small Grassen Biwak. This is a great place for a short indoor snack or even lunch (which you’ll need to bring yourself) before the real fun begins.

From here, the regular Rundtour is still a great option. And if that’s what you’re doing, you basically ski from the biwak down to the valley. It’s 1,500 vertical meters of fantastic skiing — not the most complicated run, but you still need to know your way down or ski with someone who does.

However, if you really want to level-up a notch on the adventure, take another sip of water and start hiking towards Grassen some 300 meters higher. When you reach it, aim for Spannort but make sure to explain to

your guide how big of an adventure you’re up for and how much power you’ve got left in your legs. At some point, depending on your strength and skills, you’ll hang a left and point it to the valley far, far below.

All these runs demand high level route-finding and snowpack knowledge (not to mention ropes), so even if it seems tempting to follow tracks or try to navigate by a photo taken from Fürenalp the day before, don’t. This is why — once again — we recommend skiing with a mountain guide here (check out page 32 for info about the local guides).

While a few of the lines down Little Patagonia make for legit après bragging even for the most diehard locals, they all create memories for life.

BRUNNI LOVE

The sunny side is more than just sun. South-facing Brunni is the less-famous side of the Engelberg Valley. That’s not strange, since the Titlis side has more lifts, more runs and more vertical metres. But it also has more people, so it’s good to remember that on the right days, uncrowded Brunni is just about as good as skiing can get.

Brunni has its own attraction — especially early season when the big north faces of Titlis are still in the shade most of the day, and the sun isn’t yet strong enough to mess with any southside powder. Many of Brunni’s runs are on grass slopes, which means less chance of hitting rocks during a big, early season dump when there’s no real base yet. Memories of those kinds of days often bring back our strongest longings for the winter past as we move on into summer.

Our love for the little guy doesn’t stop there. Here are two more reasons for endearment that might seem simple but can make a big difference to your day: trees and sun. First, on cloudy days with flat light or even a snowstorm, some form of visual reference helps you ski better. With most of the skiing on Brunni below treeline, the Sound of Music -like feeling

of skiing through glades and over meadows where cows graze in summer is hard to beat. Second, although cold, north-facing pow can be the stuff of dreams, we all like the sun, too. And in the dark days of December and January when we tend to crave it most, well, Brunni is, after all, the sunny side.

Another appealing thing about Brunni are its environmental credentials. There’s a lot to be said here, but we’ll mention a couple of standouts. Brunni’s lifts have been running 100% CO2-free on Engelberg’s home-grown hydro since June 2013. In fact, the Swiss Climate Protection Foundation, Myclimate, awarded Brunni-Bahnen Engelberg AG the "climateneutral company of 2018,”— marking it as the first climate-neutral cable-car company in Switzerland. Amazing, huh? (It’s important to mention that the other side of the valley,

Titlis Bergbahnen, is now running all its lifts, hotels, restaurants, offices and snow-making on 100% locally generated hydro as well.)

Trees, sun and an environmental ethic are just the start of our love affair with Brunni. We could make this list very long — Brunnihütte lunch, wonderful carving slopes, short lift lines, sunny spring corn days — but our best advice is to go check it out for yourself.

And how to do that? First, check the slope map to see which parts are Wildlife Protected. Don’t ski there, but do ski everywhere else. Start with shredding under the chairlift, move on to Bord and finish off with Grünenwald. Call TAXI HESS at +41 79 669 94 15 to get a cab back to the base station, eat lunch on Brunnihütte, then repeat until your legs say “beer.”

Friends on a powder day.

POW(ER) HUNTERS

Pro skier Marcus Caston and his wife Tasha left behind the best snow on earth in Utah and moved to the best mountains on earth in Engelberg. Why? Because life’s too short not to ski the Laub as often as you can.

Behind his low-profile demeanor and frequent smile, American Marcus Caston is a beast in disguise. Simply put, he’s one of the very best skiers we’ve ever had the pleasure of sharing a run with. Born in Salt Lake City, capital of the mountain-and-desert-quilted state of Utah, his is a familiar story of growing up bashing gates before switching to freesking at age 20.

All that training carving icy slopes gave him a solid base to build upon when skiing powder, creating a distinct style that combines raw, pure power with finesse and grace. Let’s put it this way: we’ve never seen Marcus make a bad turn, even when snow conditions are bad enough to make the most seasoned pros look like wobbly punters.

His wife Tasha grew up skiing at Utah’s mythical powder heaven of Alta, becoming a ski instructor and working at a lodge before getting a “real” job. Needless to say, she rips as well.

– As a professional skier, I’ve been able to travel to some amazing places over the years, says Marcus between shots in professional photographer Oskar Enander’s golf simulator. I started coming to Engelberg maybe eight winters ago. The first time I came I stayed two weeks, then a month the following year, and two months the next.

The ski resorts surrounding Salt Lake City frequently top global snow statistics, with the 2022/23 winter season breaking all kinds of records as one of the deepest in North American history. The snow that falls there feels right out of a fable, so plentiful and dry that the state of Utah has gone so far as to trademark it “The Greatest Snow on Earth® .”

The Castons however, wanted more than “just” powder skiing. They wanted a piece of the big-mountain life instead, turning their eyes towards Engelberg and making the move across the Atlantic.

– Obviously, the skiing here is a big part of the reason I kept coming back, he continues. The mountains are so big compared to back home,

and I had some of the longest powder runs of my life. But I also realized there’s more to skiing than just great snow or mountains. The pace of skiing here is much calmer than the “powder panic” that ensues at U.S. resorts every time it snows two inches [5 centimeters to us metric users].

At least seven major ski resorts are situated within 20 minutes of downtown Salt Lake City. That’s great if you want to combine big-city life with skiing, but having a metropolitan area with over a million inhabitants, many of them skiers, creates a few unwanted side effects for people who love fresh snow.

The powder frenzy that unfolds the day after a big storm at places like Alta and Snowbird is like nothing seen anywhere in the Alps. Despite being locals with inside knowledge that helped to skirt the madness, the Castons started looking for something that was not only a little slower, but a fresh challenge from their daily routines.

– Skiing here requires a bit more thought and intention than skiing back home, he notes. And that little extra intent makes the runs here all the more special. I would rather ski one Laub or Steinberg run in good powder conditions than a week of powder back in Utah. For me, it’s worth putting in a little time and waiting to pull the trigger on one of the classic runs that makes for a more fulfilling ski experience throughout the winter.

Which, he figures, goes a long way to explaining why they ended up living here. The fact that Titlis has some of the best snow and one of the highest annual snowfalls in the Alps probably doesn’t hurt either.

So if you see the Castons getting off a lift, give them a high five and send them on their way. Because you most definitely don’t have the legs to keep up with them.

CHOOSE WISELY, AND TAKE CARE OF YOUR GEAR

Having good equipment, keeping it in good shape, and adapting it to your body and personal style might be something a lot of us forget — or just don’t care about. But trust us, it’s worth it. Here is some basic knowledge about gear to help make your ski days better.

“A really good skier can ski well on anything!” Yes, this old cliché might have some truth to it, but… why? Why ski on just anything, when you could actually ski even better on something good? Let’s start at the beginning.

First, it’s always best to buy gear from someone who knows about it. Skis, and especially boots, are very individualized. The giant Internet stores taking over the old brick-and-mortar retail model have their advantages, but they don’t know you; they can’t look at your feet and pick a boot that’s perfect for your foot. Better to visit a shop with a good bootfitter on hand when buying anything new.

Boots will get a second paragraph here, as old/bad/unfitted/just-plain-wrong boots can destroy even the best powder day. Some people are blessed with “easy feet” that don’t require any fitting, but if you aren’t one of them, you shouldn’t wait a second longer than necessary to get your boots fixed. The most-common adjustments are to punch out and/or grind the shell and shape/heat the liner to accommodate the shape of your foot. After a few days of skiing the upgraded fit, you might need another little tweak to perfect it, but once again, it’ll be worth it. Cramped or painful feet aren’t something you want to have on the pow day of your life.

WHILE YOU’RE AT IT, GET A CUSTOM INSOLE IT CAN BE A GAME-CHANGER.

Skis might not cramp your feet, but they can cramp your style, so they still need to fit you. It’s important to be honest here — the burliest and biggest skis might work for some, but they’re not for everyone. Trust your own judegemnt here, because once you’re on a pair of skis you like, everything’s so much easier. Just like boots, though, they might not come out of the wrap ready for you, and you may need to figure out what you actually like. Keep reading.

New skis often have a ”base bevel,” which means the metal edges aren’t 100% flat with the base, but have a slight upward angle, so the skis don’t feel too sharp. If your skis aren’t beveled, ask the shop to fix it. Many also experiment with more bevel in the front and back of the skis, so they feel less “grabby,” and are easier to turn and slide with. Now, remember we’re talking about powder skis here, not carving skis. Some skis even have fully rounded bases and edges front-and-back to be able to slide, spray and throw the tails out easier. To sort out these matters, the best thing is to demo differently tuned skis, either through rentals or loans. You can test fulllength sharpend, to mega bevel and dull on big parts of the ski.

Depending on snow depth and the number of ski days they’ve had, at some point you’ll need to freshen your boards again so they’ll ski like they did when they were new. In deep powder, base- and edge-condition matter less, but there are very few days, if any, where 100% of every run is pow. Conditions change every day, from top to bottom, and having sharp edges is something that can make a traverse over to that untracked pow slope pleasant instead of sketchy. Let one of the shops do a base grind + bevel + wax now and then, and not only will your skis feel better, you’ll ski better, too.

In case you forgot what you read a few minutes ago, we’re going back to boots, this is important! Ski boots can be stiff, but they shouldn’t hurt. You might have experienced having boots that loved you for an entire season, but then, in the middle of the next one, suddenly started to act up, with a hotspot or point of pain that gets worse every day. Get it fixed immediately. It can only get worse if you wait, and chances are it will do so some permanent damage to your foot. There are good bootfitters in town who can solve most problems, and half-an-hour down the road in Buochs you’ll find Sport Schuh Fitting, where many national-team athletes get their boots fitted and no problem is too tricky.

DO NOT

TO DO

SKI A DAY WITH A MOUNTAIN GUIDE

Think about it: someone finds the best skiing for you, keeps you safe, and knows all the local secrets. Win-win-win!

SKI THE BIG FIVE

In some ways to tick it off the list, but more because it’s awesome skiing. Feeling strong? Ski them all in one day. You’ll probably sleep well that night.

TAKE A “TRADITIONAL PHOTO”

On top of Titlis you’ll find a photo studio where you can get the profile picture of a lifetime. You won’t regret it!

TRY SKI TOURING

If you like skiing but aren’t familiar with the touring world, we can almost promise you’ll be hooked. Hire a mountain guide and we can guarantee it.

EAT ÄLPLERMAGRONEN

If Engelberg was a country this would be the national dish. Potatoes, pasta, cheese, cream, onions and mashed apples might sound like an odd mix, but once you get used to the thought and actually try it, we know you’ll love it! Restaurant Flühmatt does the best in town.

TRY UP-TO-DATE EQUIPMENT

If you haven’t tried really wide powder skis or superlight ski-touring gear, make sure to take the opportunity to rent a setup here. It will make the good days even better!

HAVE A PROPER SKI-BOOT-APRÈS

Forget your age, drink a few beers (and maybe a Jäger bomb) and exaggerate about the cliff you dropped before you even get out of your ski boots. Make sure to round it off with a burger in the bar and a lot of water before (early) sleep. You don’t want to miss your next ski day!

VISIT THE MONASTERY

It doesn’t matter if your religion is Christian or Powder-worshipper — a visit to this historic Benadictine monastery is a mighty experience.

EAT KÄSESCHNITTE AT UNTERTRÜBSEE

Every Wednesday evening, Dani from the OKAY shop leads the way up to Restaurant Untertrübsee. It’s a 30-minute ski tour, but the weight of all that Käseschnitte in your stomach will make you faster on the way down. Pro tip: don’t forget a headlamp.

SKI A DAY ON BRUNNI

The sunny side of the valley might be smaller, but the slopes are fun, it’s less crowded, and features the best stormday tree skiing. Hire a guide or ski with someone who can find Grünenwald, and try to squeeze in a detour lunch at Gasthaus Schwand.

TAKE CHANCES

Dropping cliffs, shredding powder and skiing fast is all well and good, but make sure you know what’s in the landing, that the snow is stable, and that you can take a fall without big consequences.

DRINK THE LAST BEER/DRINK/SHOT AT 2:00 AM IF IT’S SNOWING

Enjoy your cocktails earlier in the evening so that you can also enjoy the next day (if you do insist on getting a little drunk, do it at après — see “TO-DO” list).

BUY GEAR YOU DON’T KNOW HOW TO USE OR DON’T NEED

We encourage everyone to use equipment that’s up-to-date as a lot has happened in the past few years. But make sure to spend your money on equipment that’s suited to your skill level.

DROP IN IF YOU HAVE A BAD GUT FEELING

Even if you’re skiing with people who “know more than you,” gut feelings about a run are often a hint of something. Turning around is never a bad decision.

FOLLOW TRACKS IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHERE THEY END

It’s easy to get excited when skiing — we do it all the time! But keep your cool, make sure you know where you are, and don’t trust other skier’s tracks. They might lead you seriously astray.

TRY TO BE A TOUGH GUY IN THE MOUNTAINS

We skiers are in the mountains because we love them, but they dictate the rules we should follow. Don’t ignore the signs — be a humble guy in the mountains.

SKI LONGER THAN YOUR LEGS CAN TAKE

Sometimes it feels like we never want to stop skiing, but many injuries happen when we’re tired and our bodies aren’t fully cooperating. And remember — the next day will also be better if you stop in time.

SKI SOMETHING THAT IS ROPED OFF Titlis security management and ski patrol want to keep as much of the mountain open as possible, but if they rope something off or tell you not to ski somewhere, they have a good reason. Respect it.

SKI OFF PISTE WITHOUT AVALANCHE EQUIPMENT

Just. Don’t.

SULZ

BERGHAUS JOCHPASS

WENDENLÜCKE

RITZ GERSCHNIALP

BERGHOTEL TRÜBSEE

SKIHÜTTE STAND LAUB

GALTIBERG STEINBERG

NEXT SEASON

BULLETIN SKI LODGE

Ski Lodge Engelberg’s CEO Hugo Magnusson making sure he’s up to date on the trail tips for our guests. Photo: Luke Jarmey

LESS BUSY, BUT NOT LESS GOOD

Yes, our hotel is named after a winter activity, but if we could, we wouldn’t have anything against calling it Hike Lodge Engelberg or something similar in the summer. What once seemed an “off-season” has now taken its rightful place among the other seasons. Sure, we miss skiing a bit, but we’re pretty happy that we can run, bike, hike and climb in the same awesome terrain we passed through on our ski tours or party laps a few months earlier. Not to mention all the small restaurants and cheese factories that are closed in winter. And the golf course! And the… Well, maybe it’s just best if you keep on reading. The tempo is slower in summer, but the valley isn’t short on activities for those seeking adventure, training or just a stroll in the mountains.

Not too crowded for Erik Marcusson and Johan Victorin

STAFF PICKS

SUPERCHARGED

Biking in the high mountains is almost always a magical experience with spectacular views and near-endless options. But to be fair, it takes a certain level of strength and fitness to get the most from it — as well as have some energy left in the tank at all times to both enjoy the experience and do it safely.

But what if we told you there’s a cheat code that will help you do more runs while expending less energy? Yes, we’re talking e-bikes here. Because, with the help of electrical assistance, your bike can be up to four times as efficient as you are. What does that mean in layman’s terms? This: more runs, more fun and more energy to enjoy both the landscape in front of your eyes as well as the trail ahead.

If you don’t have an e-bike yourself, several shops in town will rent you one.

GET HITCHED AT ALTITUDE

Getting married is without a doubt one of life’s greatest experiences. So why not make it even more memorable? We can’t think of a better way to exchange your eternal vows than on a sunny day in the mountains. The patio and lawn outside the Ski Lodge have hosted many wedding ceremonies over the years, offering a perfect spot for a couple to celebrate both their love for each other and the mountains.

Planning to get hitched soon but don’t have a plan? Just ask us and we’ll be thrilled to help create the wedding of your dreams. The only thing you have to say is “I do”.

LOCAL FOOD

Nothing tastes as good as a great meal or a drink when combined with fresh mountain air. Here are a few of our favorite easily accessible culinary stops in Engelberg.

MOLKEREI HURSCHLER - At this little shop on Blumenweg 17 you’ll find over 80 kinds of cheese, from both local and regional farmers as well as from all over the world. Open 365 days per year.

VILLA HUNDERT - Hundert means “100”. Dining at the Villa Hundert, situated way up on the Brunni side of the valley, is nothing but a full-on experience for the mind and the belly. Make a reservation well in advance.

ALPENCLUB - This Engelberg staple is as Swiss as it gets, serving traditional mountain dishes in a warm, cozy, wooden restaurant that smells of cheese. They also happen to bake the best pizza in town.

ROASTERY - We simply love coffee, and the family-run Roastery on Dorfstrasse is the best place in town to get it. Drink your java en place or purchase any of their delicious blends to bring home to your own kitchen.

FÜRENALP - It’s the best view in town and if you have 12 hours in Engelberg, forget Titlis and Brunni, this is where you should eat lunch. Did we mention they have fantastic views?

BRASSERIE KONRAD - We’re biased (of course), but you simply can’t list the best places to eat in Engelberg without mentioning our own celebrated restaurant. Read more about it on page 12 in the winter section.

A MIDSUMMER’S DREAM

As Swedes, the annual Ski Lodge midsummer celebration at the end of June is like a holy day. In our native Sweden, midsummer is a celebration of light and fertility — well, and dancing around the maypole. It also calls for eating traditional Swedish foods such as pickled herring, cured salmon, meatballs, new potatoes with dill, and strawberries. Of course, there will also be the odd herbal schnapps. Not to be missed if you’re around.

CLIMBING THE WALLS

Being stuck down in the valley on a stormy day often causes us to climb the closest wall — literally. Because at the Engelberg Sporting Park you’ll find an indoor climbing gym that’s not only a perfect down-day activity, but an anytime place to hone your climbing skills and get a proper workout while having tons of fun in the process.

The 12-meter climbing wall has a number of routes that suit everyone from ranks beginners dangling from a top-rope to professional crag-monkeys working the overhangs

RAINY DAYS REVISITED

The occasional rainy day does happen in the high mountains in the summertime, effectively canceling those plans for that big hike or that bike ride. But fear not, here are some of our favorite rainy day cures.

• Take a train to Luzern; walk along the Kapellbrücke, lunch by the Reuss River, or simply stroll and admire the architecture in one of Switzerland’s most beautiful cities.

• Head to the driving range at the Engelberg golf course and smash some balls from under the roof.

• Explore Engelberg’s 900-year-old Benedictine monastery.

• Meet up with friends over coffee and cake at The Tea Room.

• Give your bike a well-needed tune up.

• Read and respond to all the emails you forgot about (seriously).

• Play Badminton at Engelberg Sporting Park (warm up is mandatory to safeguard that achilles).

Simon Carlsson, Photo: Niklas Wallner

Hayley and Evan, Photo: Caroline Hancox

FRESH IDEAS

Need inspiration for a new direction or energy to bring an old one back to life? Nothing beats a highaltitude conference in the Alps to get the creative juices flowing.

THINK CONFERENCE. THEN RETHINK IT.

Because when you inject your brain with fresh mountain influences, creative processes tend to jumpstart right alongside a deeper connection with both yourself and your colleagues.

That’s why we claim that a successful — not to mention fun — conference should also include one or all of trail running, climbing, paragliding, mountain biking and hiking. And we know what we’re talking about. Like any business, we also need to have meetings now and then to come up with new ideas and bond as a team. Over the past few years, our own understanding of how fresh air and a little sweat can contribute to creativity has grown immensely — an understanding we love to pass on to any company or organization that visits us for a conference meeting.

Sure, things need to be written down at some point, but being locked up in a stuffy and generic meeting room in the big city for a whole day isn’t the way to drive solutions (other than figuring out ways to escape). And that’s also the reason why you don’t find any pre-packaged conference deals on our website. Just get in touch with us and let’s make some unique plans together. Because you, your co-workers and your company are worth nothing but what’s best for you.

So we’ll be happy to help you get the juices flowing with tailor-made meetings in our beautiful mountains, either at the lodge or someplace fitting in the village. It’s the way we think a conference should be done — creativity, great food, fun activities and fresh mountain air. Now there’s a real connection to build upon.

Photo:Jana Rogers

BIG MOUNTAIN BIKING

Photo: Niklas Wallner

Engelberg’s bike scene is still under development with new trails popping up all the time. But you don’t have to wait to experience the valley on two wheels — there’s already plenty to discover. Here are four great places for riding bikes.

TRAIL ARENA

Just like skiing, beginners and kids need safe places to hone their skills and get a feel for riding on two wheels — not to mention having tons of fun in the process. For a few years now, Engelberg has had the perfect spot to do just that — the trail arena just above Hotel Bänklialp, right next to the ski-jumping hill.

Here, in a beautiful forested setting with undulating terrain, smooth, machine-built trails offer the perfect training ground for riders of all ages looking to get into the sport of mountain biking, as well as for more experienced riders to fine-tune their skills.

There’s a pump-track specifically tailored to kids with features that are fun and easy to roll through. There’s also a 500-meter-long, bluegraded intermediate trail alongside a more challenging red trail, filled with fun jumps and technical bits. And to top it off, there’s also a short black trail for experts. All in all, the Trail Arena is the perfect spot for the entire family to enjoy a day of bike-riding together.

GERSCHNI-TRAIL

Engelberg’s latest trail addition is the Gerschni-trail, starting just below the Café Ritz on Gerschnialp — the restaurant situated at the bottom of the legendary Laub ski run — and dropping through the luscious green Gerschniwald forest. The trail was built by local trailbuilder Pirmin Kündig and his company Weg Dynamik.

Even without being a proper flow trail, its character is pure flowy singletrack. Consider it more of a “play trail” that gives users plenty of options to choose different lines and features along the way. Built with excavators, the trail features nicely bermed corners that offer great support to allow riders to keep their speed and momentum.

And even though the official trail grade is red, all bigger features and jumps can be ridden to the side, so intermediate riders can build the courage to hit them after a few laps. Expert and advanced riders can also find a few more difficult features on the sides of the trail. The Gerschni-trail ends by the Trail Arena. From there, just pedal up paved Gerschnistrasse to Gerschnialp to drop in for another fun-filled lap!

JOCHPASS

The Jochpass area on Mt. Titlis is Engelberg’s version of a bike park, beginning at 2,200 meters elevation and diving down through a majestic mountain landscape. Even better, you can use a chairlift to get to the top of the trails! Here, you’ll find three purpose-built bike trails loaded with fun and countless twists and turns, offering challenges to both intermediate and seasoned riders alike.

To get to the Jochpass valley station, either ride your bike from town via Untertrübsee to Trübsee. Or take the more comfortable way — the Titlis Xpress gondola — followed by a quick ride along the Trübsee lakeshore.

The Jochpass Trail is a flowy, nicely varied 4.5 kilometers that boasts a 440-meter vertical drop and ends by Trübsee. All features have been crafted so bikers of all abilities can find their own level.

Those looking for a more challenging experience can try a few laps on Hells Bells Trail down towards Engstlensee. This is a narrow singletrack with a few technical challenges sprinkled along the way, following a series of ridges down towards the valley lift station. Jump on the lift and you’ll be back at Jochpass within minutes, ready for another lap.

If you want to crank things up a gear (pun intended), head for Trudy Trail, right next to the Jochpass Trail. Named after the hut warden at Jochpass, Trudy is the mountain’s most advanced and challenging bike trail. The trail has a bunch of steep and technical parts that’ll keep you on your toes, alongside plenty of fun of course.

And when you need to stop for lunch and recharge your batteries, the Bärghuis Jochpass is perfectly situated at the top of the lift. Find a seat on the sun-drenched terrace, grab a cold drink, find something delicious to eat from the menu, and get ready to indulge in a few more laps of downhill fun.

Elin and Ted Wallner

Robin Wallner

Cole Lucas

TRAINDURO

Yes, as the name suggests, Trainduro is our homemade portmanteau for combining enduro mountain biking with trains, two things that Switzerland has in spades. After all, Switzerland has the world’s best train system, where you’re allowed to bring your bike along for the ride. This opens up a whole world of otherwise unthinkable trail combinations that will feed you back to Engelberg at the end of the day.

Indeed, some of our best riding experiences have ended far from home. One of our favorite trainduro rides starts by the Brunni midstation; you can either take the tram there or ride your bike (or e-bike) from town. From there, follow signs towards Walenpfad while enjoying The Sound of Music-esque views (singing is voluntary).

At Walenalp you leave the trail and dive left towards Oberrickenbach down a steep stretch, followed by a thrilling, bermed trail that ends next to the train station in the village of Wolfenschiessen. Jump on the train for a quick, 24-minute ride back to Engelberg, ready for another lap.

Another beautiful bike adventure goes up and through the Surenenpass then down towards the large Vierwaldstättersee — Lake Lucerne in English. The climb to the pass is about 600 vertical meters, and sometimes very steep. But once you start down the hill you’ll know it was worth every drop of sweat expended going up.

The views aren’t too bad either, with the impressive Spannort and Stäuber in full view from the saddle. A challenging singletrack takes you all the way down to the floor of the Reuss Valley.

Take a refreshing dip in the lake before embarking on the unique combination of both a boat ride and a train trip back to Engelberg, followed by a well-deserved aprés bike beer on the patio outside the Ski Lodge.

TO GET THE FULL EXPERIENCE AND FIND THE BEST TRAILS, DON’T HESITATE TO HIRE A BIKE GUIDE, OR EVEN BETTER, JOIN IN FOR A FULL DAY OF BIKE SHUTTLES ARRANGED BY THE BIKESCHULE ENGELBERG, BIKESCHULE-ENGELBERG.CH.

Cole Lucas, Simon Carlsson & Daniel Swanbeck

Zakarias Blom Johansen, Cole Lucas & Robin Wallner

Daniel Swanbeck

RUN TO THE HILLS

Tucked deep within the embrace of the central Swiss Alps, Engelberg isn’t your easy-rider running scene — it’s a valley surrounded by sharp mountains where the only way to get a few kilometres on your technical watch or mobile app is up.

PEAKS ON THE HORIZON

Runners who come to Engelberg probably start their journey with a couple of modest goals. Maybe something like: “Let’s just go where the trail takes us.” What they soon learn, however, is how to get humbled by these goals — then how to come up with new ones. Because sometimes you find you can’t stop even if your whole body demands it, it’s just so damn pretty around that next corner. Whether it’s conquering elevation goals or raging through ultra-distances, the spirit and self-discovery ingrained in Engelberg’s running culture leaves you wanting more than you came for.

It isn’t only about pristine trails and polite joggers (but do say hi, or, even better, Grüezi, to those you meet on the trail to avoid upsetting the locals; here, if you don’t greet people you’ll end up the subject of someone’s coffee-break conversation). It’s also a place where each step is a salute to how well-trained you thought you were. But don’t fret. The trails deliver their own pleasures, winding through well-kept, Swiss-certified forests, surrounded by the scent of trees, local plants (though if you think you smell the rare and endangered edelweiss flower, you might be hallucinating from lack of oxygen) and the crisp air of nonconformity. Here, runners aren’t just chasing personal records — they’re finding new personal goals they never knew they had.

The Rugghubelhütte Berglauf, for instance, isn’t your everyday kind of race — it’s a brutal 9-kilometers with a whopping 1,200 meters of elevation pain. Here, runners aren’t just racing the clock but flipping the bird to

gravity, punking their way to the summit in a defiant act of mountain mayhem. We know it sounds like hell, but it’s actually the opposite — because you can always go to hell and come back a hero. This is what a race like this does to people. While it might not feel even remotely enjoyable as you grind your way up, at the end there’s beer and soup and you wouldn’t have spent the day in any other way.

In Engelberg, running transcends the realm of mere sport; it becomes a departure from the ordinary, a quiet rebellion against the mundane. With every ascent, Engelberg extends an invitation for runners to imprint their journey on the trails, to turn each run into an expression of individuality against the backdrop of nature’s 9th wonder, the Alps. You come as one person and leave as another. And that’s OK.

MOSHING THROUGH THE RACES

Engelberg’s running competitions aren’t for the faint-hearted but more so the full-hearted, as the one thing they all have in common is that anyone can do them in their own sweet time. You’ll join a mosh pit of competitors from different backgrounds, where it doesn’t matter whether you run 5 kilometres a week or 120, whether you like sprinting down technical descents or gracefully jogging along panoramic ridgelines. In the end, from the mountain’s perspective, all the people on its trails are just people.

BERGLAUF

DISTANCE: 9 KILOMETER

VERTICAL: 1,200 METERS

DATE: BEGINNING OF AUGUST

CIRQUE SER IES

DISTANCE: 15 KILOMETER

VERTICAL: 900 METERS

DATE: END OF SEPTEMBER

Paula Hansen & Erik Marcusson

ZEN IS THE MAGIC ( NUMBER)

If you tend to come alive through deep breaths on a mat rather than hyperventilating at the end of a rope, Engelberg offers an exceptionally good blend of closer-to-the-ground activities — yoga, hiking, and culinary experiences that will define a vacation well-spent. In this little mountain town you really don’t need to be a thrill-seeker to find space; you can find balance for your mind, body, and taste buds in other ways, too.

ZEN MEETS ADVENTURE

Engelberg’s yoga scene embodies tranquility. Imagine starting your day with a sunrise yoga session set against the backdrop of the awe-inspiring mountaintops circling the village. Crisp alpine air complements your practice, bringing harmony to your body and soul before lacing up your hiking boots to hit the trails.

Engelberg’s hiking trails are a refreshing counterpoint to your yoga practice. Ranging from leisurely strolls to invigorating alpine treks, these trails are the yin to your yoga’s yang. The combination of yoga and hiking lets you embrace nature’s beauty while enhancing your own well-being.

CULINARY DELIGHTS

Engelberg’s food scene is its own adventure. Even if they occupy different ends of the fine-dining scale, cheese-farmer lunch spots and Villa Hundert are foodie-pleasing gems that present Swiss and international flavors created from locally-sourced ingredients.

These dishes not only fuel your day, but celebrate the region’s culinary heritage. Engelberg’s renowned cheese farms are gastronomic masterpieces that make for a great snack on the go.

To taste the full spectrum of Engelberg experiences, explore the holistic yoga vacation with a group or join in to get to know some new friends. These packages usually comprise daily yoga sessions, guided hikes, and exquisite dining experiences, elevating your stay to a new high. Whether you’re a seasoned yogi, a hiking aficionado, or a connoisseur of fine dining, Engelberg provides a space for selfdiscovery, exploration, and savoring time well spent.

Ask our friendly staff at the front desk about how to sign up for a week-long retreat during summer, and private or group classes during your stay.

SAMIRA – VINYASA FLOW, INTUITIVE MOVEMENT. WE BREATHE, WE MOVE, WE FLOW-GLOW. SAMIRAMOVES.COM

SANDRA MARTI – AYURVEDA, MEDITATION, PILATES AND YOGA. RAUMIMHINTERDORF.CH

YOGA HOT SPOTS

Photo: Jesper Wåhlsted

TO THE SKY

Engelberg is famous for its skiing. And its climbing? Not so much. But we think it should be. Our home valley boasts everything from the easiest via ferrata routes to world-class, big-wall limestone climbing.

Did you guys just write “world-class,” you ask? Yes, we did. These routes aren’t right under your nose as you leave the hotel, but they’re no secret either. The Titlis North Wall, Wendenstöcke and Schlossberg all feature really, really good limestone climbing. The fact that this isn’t yet well known is a great reason to choose Engelberg over a more famous climbing destination. And, of course, a local mountain guide will come in handy for climbing on these areas.

If you’re in for a more easily accessed small-finger treat, the Schlänngen, just next to the golf course, is a great option. The overhanging wall isn’t ideal for beginners, but climbers of intermediate skill and beyond will find around 100 routes ranging from 5c+ to 8c+.

An easier — and sunnier — option is the Bettlerstock climbing area on Brunni. The season is long, and sometimes we ski powder on Titlis in the morning, and climb in a t-shirt here in the afternoon. Did someone say paradise? With routes ranging from 4b to 7c, most climbers will be able to get their fix here.

Want to skip the ropes completely? Then we recommend a cheese-andboulder adventure farther down the valley past the Fürenalp gondola station. At Stäfeli you can both rent a bouldering pad and get your daily cheese (and lunch) fix in the same place.

If, instead, you feel more secure climbing with double ropes, then we’d recommend you try one of Engelberg’s ultra scenic via ferrata routes. If you’re not familiar with this way of climbing, it’s best described as an easier, more secure way of scaling a bigger route in which you’re always attached to a series of metal ladders, bridges and wires bolted to the wall. Sound too tame? Don’t worry, we can assure you that many of the harder via ferrata routes still deliver some classic stomach butterflies.

Robert Lönnell planning his next move.

SUMMER GUIDING

Some may think Engelberg’s mountain guides take the summer off. For most of them, nothing could be further from the truth — there’s plenty of green action in the mountains!

Engelberg is world famous for its skiing, but as you can see in the part of the magazine you’re now holding, summer is no off season, even if the town is less crowded once the white stuff is gone.

As in winter, we don’t consider mountain guides mandatory every single day, but for many activities they can turn a good day into a great one. That’s good to remember if you’re a summer visitor venturing into new terrain, or want to hike further and steeper than you dare on your own — maybe even climb a big wall you’re unfamiliar with.

One activity that many are just finding out about is “hike and fly.” We asked local mountain guide and author of Hike & Fly Guide Zentralschweiz, Dani Perret, about this growing trend.

— Paragliding is nothing new, but recent developments in the equipment have opened up a whole new world of options, he says. With the new, lightweight wings of no more than a kilo, you can get to, and fly from, places that weren’t an option before.

Guided hiking with maybe even some scrambling and climbing on the way up, and then flying back home to the village sounds like a pretty darn sweet deal if you ask us. If you also think so, but don’t paraglide yourself, there’s always the option of a tandem fly-down!

Of course, if you feel like a day in the mountains without flying is exciting enough, we don’t blame you. But remember, just like in winter, summer mountain guides don’t only work on safeguarding from immediate danger. They’re first and foremost guides, who’ll make sure you have your best day out there, whether your personal fix is a multi-pitch climb or a multibreak hike.

Jonas und de Michi, Photo: Dani Perret

HOOKED

Engelberg’s golf course is one of the most beautiful in the Alps. Just don’t get too distracted by the mountains — you still have 18 challenging holes to negotiate.

The closest most Engelberg skiers get to golf is when they cross the course after skiing the mighty Galtiberg in winter, a backcountry classic that ends up next to the green on hole seven — a par-5 that also happens to be the longest hole on the course.

One local skier who has been severely bitten by the golf bug is world-class ski photographer Oskar Enander, a Swedish native who has called Engelberg home for over two decades.

— I registered 56 rounds here last summer, he says. And I was away for the better part of July and August, otherwise that number would be much higher.

The challenging nature of the Engelberg course might have something to do with its pull. It may seem easy just looking at the scorecard, but plenty of challenges hide behind the numbers.

— The course isn’t especially long, and for being located in the mountains, pretty flat as well, says Enander. But it’s quite varied and I find myself reaching for long irons instead of

the driver on a lot of tees.

Situated at the very end of the Engelberg valley, the course’s 18 holes are crammed into a pretty tight space, which makes many of them narrow and punishing if you happen to miss the fairway on your tee shot. Hit anything beyond the semi-rough and good luck finding your ball. You’re better off swallowing the penalty-stroke pill, dropping a new ball and continuing on.

Being a mountain course at altitude also means it’s covered in snow longer than most lowland counterparts. Even so, when ski season ends here, golf season usually begins.

— When you can’t ski out from Galtiberg you know that the grass has started to grow on the fairways. In a way, it means you’re about to replace one great feeling with another, admits Enander.

With a season that usually starts at the end of April and lasts until mid-October, it’s fairly short by Swiss standards, but reasonable for the mountains. And a tempered mountain climate that rarely sees super hot or dry conditions

means the course surface usually maintains a good standard throughout.

The course’s signature hole is without a doubt the short par-4 14th. Measuring a meager 205 meters from the back tee, it’s not without challenges. Hitting to an elevated green over water, if you’re even just a little short you’re in the drink. But score a two here during an official club competition and you become a member of the local Eagle Club.

Most memorably, the view from the tee box is one of the most stunning of any golf course in the world, with Mt. Titlis in full view alongside mighty glaciers, lush mountain forests and roaring waterfalls. It’s all right in front of your eyes — so good luck nailing that tee shot!

— I never get tired of the views here, says Enander. I love playing a round early in the morning and watching the sunrise over Mt. Spannort from the 6th green. You quickly feel a sense of euphoria. It’s a feeling that’s hard to beat… well, apart from sinking a birdie putt.

BIG VIEWS, SMALL RESTAURANTS

Hiking might be the perfect mountain activity, one where everyone from elite athletes to couch potatoes can get their fix. The Engelberg Valley boasts endless possibilities, no matter where on the scale you’re at.

Some people tend to look at hiking as “only walking,” but we know better. We’ve had many of our best days in the mountains here only walking. Or hiking. Or strolling. It doesn’t matter what you call it, because when you’re out there, you know it’s good.

No matter where in the Engelberg Valley you choose to hike, you’ll be surrounded by majestic mountains that are green in some directions and covered with blue glaciers in others. And that’s what we really love about it; you don’t need to hike far or close to any high cliffs — you’ll always be in amazing surroundings.

If you do like to hike far, however, there’s a ton of options on some of the valley’s 500 kilometers of hiking trails. One bigger hike we would recommend is the Walenpfad Trail, ranked as one of the ten most scenic in Switzerland. And we can assure you that means something. You can choose which direction you want to hike it, but we recommend starting at Ristis and finishing at Bannalp. Get the details and your round trip tickets at the train station across the street from the lodge.

If the 11 kilometer, 500-plus-vertical-meter Walenpfad trail feels too hefty, there are, of course, plenty of options lower down the scale — and we always love to go for hikes that also include some kind of eating.

There are plenty of small, cozy restaurants and cheese factories that serve as great destinations on your adventure. If you choose to hike further down the valley from the Fürenalp valley station, for example, Alpenrösli, Stäfeli and Blackenalp are all perfect stops in beautiful surroundings. You just choose how far you want to go!

If you’re visiting Engelberg with kids who aren’t quite ready for longer walks, there are also plenty of options. Like taking the gondola to Trübsee and going for the Treasure Hunt Hike around the lake. It’s a perfect start to a kid’s hiking career — if they make it past the adventure playground, that is. On the other side of the valley, the Tickle Path around the heart shaped “love lake” on Brunni serves as a fun small adventure both for kids and grownups.

For those needing more adventure, or a daily air scare, we recommend hiring a mountain guide and asking them to take you on one of their favorite hikes. We assure you it will be a day to remember!

DON’T FORGET

• SUNSCREEN • SUNGLASSES

• BLISTER PATCHES • WATER

• SNACKS • EXTRA CLOTHES

• TAKING LOTS OF PHOTOS!

WALENPFAD

TITLIS NORTH WALL

BIKE PARK