SKI LODGE BULLETIN
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The get away car. THE VOLVO V90 CROSS COUNTRY. DISCOVER MORE AT VOLVOCARS.CH/V90CROSSCOUNTRY
INNOVATION MADE BY SWEDEN. SKI LODGE BULLETIN | 3
Skiing is believing EDITORS
JOHAN JONSSON
TOBIAS IVARSSON
DAMIAN PHILLIPS
OSKAR ENANDER
ON THE COVERS WINTER PIERS SOLOMON PHOTO OSKAR ENANDER SUMMER JONAS ENGELIN PHOTO OSKAR ENANDER
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means without permission from the publisher. If you do not obey you will be haunted by snowless winters until the end of time.
@SKILODGE_EBERG
/SKILODGEENGELBERG
@SKILODGEENGELBERG
PHONE / +41 41 637 35 00 ERLENWEG 36, CH-6390 ENGELBERG INFO@SKILODGEENGELBERG.COM SKILODGEENGELBERG.COM
Thanks to the great help from Tore Manstad this bulletin is printed on 100 % recycled paper.
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08 // LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT
14 // THE BIG 5
26 // HAPPY TRAINING
10 // A MOUNTAIN
20 // FOOD FOR SKIERS
30 // MOUNTAIN REFUELLING
22 // THE OTHER SIDE
32 // THE VALLEY
24 // WHY GUIDE?
34 // THE MAGICIANS LENS
OF POSSIBILITIES
12 // MOUNTAIN SAFETY
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44 // FBI 46 // TO DO 48 // INFUSION BLACKBERRY 49 // INFORMATION
50 // WINTER MAP
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Love at first sight B A C K I N D E C E M B E R 2 0 0 2 , as the train eased into the station and came to a smooth, gentle stop, we looked out of the windows and caught a glimpse of the soaring peaks surrounding Engelberg for the first time. Back then all our focus was on one thing; cold, pristine, fresh, deep, untouched powder. As we stepped off the train we instinctively knew that we had found the right place. At the turn of the century, Engelberg had already played a role in several ski movies and magazines, and the chatter about a forgotten family resort with heavy snowfalls, endless north faces and accessible back-country started circulating widely in the skiing community. That first season certainly did not disappoint our powder needs! Nor did the one following. Then a winter season somehow stretched into the summer, as we decided to stay a little longer to bike, climb and hike. Suddenly, and without us really noticing, Engelberg had become our home from home.
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The idea to create something in Engelberg was conceived in 2008 and the learning curve was like a lot of the surrounding slopes; steep! We had never worked in hotels, but we knew that creating a place where people could meet over our favourite topic: mountains, just had to become a reality. When we rolled into the station in 2002 little did we know that that was where our journey was starting. Today, and only a stone’s throw from the station, we can reflect on many achievements, and certainly that we have created that unique and special meeting place for people who love mountains. We hope you enjoy it and feel as excited about it as we do. Engelberg has a lot to offer and we hope you get the chance to see it in all its wonder, if you need the low-down on where to find the best hiking, skiing or cheese fondue - look no further than the following pages or reach out to our amazing staff and get started. Skiing is believing. Eric & Niklas
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A mountain of possibilities IF YOU HEARD US TALK ABOUT WENDENLÜCKE TODAY, AND OUR LOVE FOR THIS CLASSIC, IT MIGHT SEEM SLIGHTLY EXAGGERATED. TO BE HONEST IF YOU WOULD HAVE ASKED US A FEW YEARS AGO, THERE’S A BIG CHANCE WE WOULD HAVE FELT THE SAME WAY. BUT SOMETIMES A THING, A DISH, A DESTINATION, OR A SKI RUN, BUILDS INTO SOMETHING SPECIAL AND “GROWS ON YOU”. THAT’S WHAT WENDENLÜCKE DOES TO YOU. hard to explain the love for something that takes so long before it becomes so obvious. Laub is easy to understand – more than 1000 vertical meters of perfect angled powder mania, visible from far, far away. However, Wendenlücke requires a hike, and big parts of the run include a fair bit of route finding. Some of the ridges in the middle are a nasty combination of shallow snowpack and convex instability. And yet, we still love it.. After all those caveats, you would be right to ask, why? The answer lies in its endless possibilities. First of all, it’s very easy access to the start of the hike. Just hop off the Jochpass Express and you’re there. Second, the hike is just like Goldilocks porridge; just right! It is small
IT’S OFTEN QUITE
enough for most people to make it to the top without using up all their energy, but big enough for strong hikers to sweat a bit (or use as a starter for a day of laps). Third: it’s a studio! Whether you’re a professional ski photographer or just want to shoot the perfect Insta banger, Wendenlücke is the place to be. Backlit powder and a sunset that will make you drool (but remember that you have to catch the last lift back home, if you ski all the way down). The fourth, and most important reason, is that the skiing is insanely good! It is fair to say that your friends, who opt for lift supported skiing over a hike, may get more vertical meters in while doing laps in the ski area, but you are likely to be blessed with pristine,
untracked, wide open powder fields to play with. And since it’s only an hour to the top at a moderate tempo, you can get chairlift laps in before or after the hike. Regarding the best way down, we really can’t choose! They all have their charm, but for strong skiers we would recommend the skiers left side all the way down to Engstlensee. Make sure to check the route properly in advance (it is never good or wise to follow tracks without knowing where they end up) or better still, ski with a mountain guide. In the lift back to the Jochpass restaurant you will probably want to do one more lap. In which case we would recommend that you eat a small portion of the energy packed into national dish, älplermagronen, and then go for it.
Fifth, the bonus: The view on top is amazing. From the rock formation at the end of the hike you can see far away, or far down. But remember to watch your step, and don’t go close to the edge where there might be a cornice.
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Mountain safety THESE ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT PAGES IN THE SKI LODGE BULLETIN. WHETHER YOU’RE A NOVICE IN THE BIG MOUNTAINS OR AN OLD MOUNTAIN GOAT WITH YEARS OF BACKCOUNTRY RIDING UNDER YOUR BELT, WE RECOMMEND YOU READ THEM, AT LEAST A COUPLE OF TIMES. THESE WORDS CAN ONLY SCRATCH THE SURFACE OF SUCH A HUGE SUBJECT, BUT IT DOESN’T MAKE IT ANY LESS IMPORTANT. S K I I N G D E E P P O W D E R and steep lines are what we live for. But this kind of life deserves respect and a knowledge about where you need to be careful. A wise approach is when we recognise that the more we learn, we realise that we can never be fully taught. But a very good start is to get a good grip on the basics, and repeat them all the time, before, during and after skiing. When skiing off piste, ALWAYS bring the basic equipment: Transceiver (close to your body, switched on), probe and shovel (in the backpack, preferably an avalanche one). Learn how to use this essential equipment, properly. A new, fancy transceiver will not help your buried friend if you don’t know exactly how to use it. The same goes for the probe, but what many people often misunderstand is that searching and probing is often the fastest parts of the rescue. It’s the digging that takes time. So practice. Then practice more. The most obvious danger is an avalanche. There’s no such thing as a completely safe day, but if you know how to read the signs of mother nature you’ll be more likely to stay away from more obvious dangers. New snow, wind and a rapid change in temperature is what you should watch out for, especially when two or more of these are combined. Then the snowpack will become unstable and avalanches are more likely. A good routine is to read the avalanche report each morning, make it a habit before skiing and you will have the basic information on what to watch out for.
many other areas, parts of the skiing is on glaciers. It’s a sleeping, slowly moving hazard, but falling into a crevasse is something you really don’t want to do. The crevasses and chasms down to the cold hard ice are often covered with a thin snow bridge which will not be marked, and there may even be ski tracks that run close to them. A good piece of advice is to always know exactly where you are and how to avoid them. Another basic rule is never take your skis off when skiing glacier terrain – you could be standing on a fragile snow bridge. If you’re in any doubt about your glacier skills, ski with a guide they will keep you safe and you will learn more at the same time. Another important rule is to never ski on your own. If you get hurt, fall into a crevasse or get caught in an avalanche, there’s no one who can help you. But most important – skiing with others is more fun! Plan your own run! Engelberg is home to
IN ENGELBERG, AND
many experienced hard charging locals and professional skiers. In short you can’t trust anyone’s tracks as they might lead you to a big cliff or something worse that you weren’t planning on during breakfast. If you are not familiar with the run you’re doing, make sure to scope it properly before, so that you know exactly where you are on it. It is common amongst experienced skiers that turning back is a sign of knowledge and respect for what you are doing. Simply, turning around and backing off from something that doesn’t feel right, can never be wrong. Peer pressure and ”the perfect powder run” can often lead people to bad decisions. To us shredding pow is one of the most important things in the world, but coming home safe is THE most important thing! Our best tip to stay safe (and get the best skiing) is to hire a mountain guide. You can ask them anything, it is a great way to get better understanding of the hazards in the mountains and you get to ski the best lines. On at the car. Off at the bar. Never turn off your transceiver at lunch or in the lift. Get a rega insurance on your first day. It’s a cheap but great insurance for Switzerland. Save their number – 1414 – for an emergency situation. Don’t forget to practice your transceiver skills on Trübsee. There’s a free training center there. No excuses, just do it! Again and again and again. SKI LODGE BULLETIN | 13
The Big 5 MANY YEARS AGO WE INTRODUCED THE NAME ”BIG 5” TO IDENTIFY THE FIVE CLASSIC RUNS, OR AREAS, IN THE TITLIS SKI RESORT AND EVERY YEAR SINCE THEN THE NAME HAS JUST KEPT GROWING. EVERYONE FROM GUIDES, LOCALS, WEEKEND TOURISTS AND TRAVEL AGENCIES PICKED UP ON IT. BUT IF YOU HAVEN’T HEARD THE NAME BEFORE AND WHAT IT MEANS – HERE THEY ARE, ENGELBERG’S FIVE GRAND CLASSICS.
PHOTO OSKAR ENANDER
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SKIER LARS WINDLIN
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SKIER PIERS SOLOMON
STEI N BERG
SU LZ
46°46’16.4”N 8°25’26.8”E
46°46’47.7”N 8°23’37.5”E
T H I S H U G E R U N starts right at the top of the Titlis Rotair lift. If you feel a bit intimidated before dropping in, then your senses are primed and ready. The run goes over glacier terrain and some parts really need to be avoided. Once you’re on the run, with a mountain guide or you have scoped the run and know your way down, it’s a 1200 vertical meter paradise that will make you laugh all the way to the top again (or to the après).
T H I S H U G E P L AYG R O U N D on the Jochpass side of the ski area is divided into three different runs. Small Sulz is a common warm up run before hitting its bigger siblings, but it can also be spiced up with a variation of different jumps and cliffs, for those who are that way inclined. Middle Sulz, however, is the real cliff jumping mecca of Engelberg and is where all the locals and seasonal workers have their favorite lines. Big Sulz is big and mellow, and appeals most to those who love big cruising powder turns (and who doesn’t?!).
Check out the map on page 50 to find Steinberg and Sulz
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SKIER PIERS SOLOMON
WEN DEN LÜCKE 46°45’55.1”N 8°23’20.7”E
YO U M AY H AV E noticed whilst reading other pages in the Bulletin that we really love Wendenlücke. It may seem daunting at first but you don’t have to hike all the way to the top and if that feels more natural you can point your skis into the fall-ine after smaller parts of the hike. However, once you have built up the skills and confidence we would really recommend at least one hike to the top during your stay. You won’t regret it!
Check out the map on page 50 to find Wendenlücke, Laub and Galtiberg
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SKIER PEP FUJAS & PIERS SOLOMON
L AU B
GALTI BERG
46°47’34.9”N 8°24’58.6”E
46°46’38.1”N 8°26’00.1”E
start than with the iconic Laub. The classic of the classics which has something to offer everyone who loves powder. The hard hitting locals often follow the huge wall on the skier’s left of the run, but for those wanting something less steep and risky the middle way, on the skier’s right, offers what many freeskiers call ”the perfect powder run”. Grab lunch at the Ritz, the restaurant at the bottom of the run, then take the 2 CHF taxi back to the lift station
C O M PA R E D TO T H E other four, the biggest of the Big 5, Galtiberg, is in a league of its own. It’s a very serious run where knowing the exact way down extremely important. We strongly recommend a mountain guide if you plan to do this run, not because we want to scare you, but mostly as when you are there on a good and safe day, it’s without doubt one of the best places on earth. Local speed machine Bimba claims the schnitzel at the restaurant at the bottom of the run is the best in the world. We can definitely say that a beer after 2000 vertical meters of happiness tastes extra special.
W H E R E B E T T E R TO
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Engelberg’s new boyband? No, just the star chefs at Brasserie Konrad.
Food for skiers AT SKI LODGE ENGELBERG WE HAVE MANY THINGS WE’RE VERY HAPPY TO SHOUT ABOUT. BRASSERIE KONRAD IS DEFINITELY ONE OF THEM, AND IT SEEMS THAT OUR CHEFS NEVER TIRE OF SURPRISING US WITH THEIR CULINARY EXPLORATIONS AND SKILLS. A F T E R T R Y I N G S O M E new additions to the menu earlier this winter, we had to stop for a second and think. ’Where had our chefs come from and how was it that they were so talented?’ Some quick counting and we managed to piece part of the puzzle together. Not least the small matter that they had worked in many famous restaurants around the world, which represented seven Michelin stars! No wonder the food is good. Besides the great experience and taste, when you’re in the mountains it’s just as important that a meal fills your stomach after a long day of laps and powder. The Konrad Skier’s Dinner is a recurrent theme on our menu for exactly this reason – a prix fixe three course dinner that will make your taste buds blossom and your belly swell, full and ready for another day in the pow! The Skier’s changes daily, just like our sommelier’s wine package that comes with it. If you feel free and want to make your own choice, no problem. Our à la carte menu holds something for everyone, and is made with the same philosophy today as when we started this restaurant – a balance of modern, Scandinavian cuisine with European influences, made from quality local ingredients. And no shortcuts, ever! However, kitchen manager Lindor Wink, strives for a constant culinary evolution.
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– Our basic philosophy is still the same, and even though we’ve had a lot of exceptional talent in the kitchen over recent years, we’re going to continue to do our best to get even better. Our vision is to be more flexible with the things we believe in. There are too many different seasons, themes and tastes to not experiment a bit from time to time. To have Lindor, and other top chefs creating in our kitchen, makes us want to pinch ourselves. But it’s not a dream, only a dream team. So why do star chefs want to work in Engelberg instead of the big city? – When I was young I always thought my career would be about chasing Michelin stars and the classic chef status. But after many years in that environment I realised that the best career for me was one where I could cook great food for hungry customers at night and ski deep pow during the day. That said, I’m still coaching the Swedish Culinary Junior Team, so I’m not losing my edge. Ha ha. So keep an eye out for our kitchen staff, admire their turns on the hill and devour their skills once you’re back home. Look out for the options in the restaurant, or in the bar, where there’s a different menu and well suited for that panic hunger that follows you around after a big powder day!
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The other side IT’S OBVIOUS THAT THERE’S ONE SKI AREA ON EACH SIDE OF TOWN. FOR SOME REASON THE GREAT SKIING ON THE LESS FAMOUS SIDE TENDS TO END UP IN THE SHADOWS OF THE RIDICULOUSLY GOOD SKIING ON THE TITLIS, EVEN THOUGH IT’S ACTUALLY THE SUNNY SIDE. have as much vertical drop or as many lifts as the big brother on the opposite side of the valley. But the charm, great tree skiing and lack of lift queues, we promise will make up for it. And then there’s Brunnihütte, which for many is considered the coziest slope side restaurant of them all. If you want to ski Brunni, but (like many) have a ”FOMO Titlis Syndrome”, remember that a good day in Engelberg doesn’t have to exclude any of the sides. To go for a morning session on the south side, while the Big 5 are still in shadow, and then shred the big lines after lunch, is a winning concept! If conditions allow, we recommend that you end your Brunni mission with the big run Grünewald, which will take you over snow covered meadows and past mountain farms, all the way to the road further down the valley. Call Taxi Hess on +41796699415 for a ride back to... Brunni or Titlis – your choice!
B RU N N I MI G HT N OT
Pst! If you see someone with a sticker saying ”Brunni Bergschule”, they are most probably part of the Finnish gang who never ski anything but the Brunni. At first glance they may seem a bit grumpy but if you ask them about where the powder is deepest they’ll probably tell you. Buy them a vodka shot at the après and they might even tell you about Kansas City...
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Why guide? IN ALMOST EVERY TEXT ABOUT SKIING WE UNDERLINE THE IMPORTANCE OF MOUNTAIN GUIDES AND WHY YOU SHOULD USE THEM. READ ON TO FIND OUT THE HOST OF REASONS WHY IT’S SO IMPORTANT. This is a very common question aired at the Lodge. The truth is that no one can know with 100% certainty. Luckily though there are people who are trained for this, and who ski Titlis, Brunni and the mountains in the valley every day. They are the local mountain guides and without doubt the best suited to answer those questions! Daniel Perret is a local mountain guide, born and raised in the area. He has a guiding style that is progressive, much like many of the guides in Engelberg, which has the distinct advantage of almost always ensuring that everyone has a good day, regardless of whether you are a new beginner, skilled mountaineer with lots of experience or even a professional freerider. We had a quick chat with him, about some of the myths attached to guiding and finding the best snow. Myth 1: ”I’m a new beginner. Isn’t a mountain guide only for skilled or experienced skiers?” Everyone can ski with a mountain guide, we have a big mix of both new beginners and experienced skier’s. But if you never tried off piste skiing then a good alternative is to spend a day or half a day in the off piste with a ski teacher, who can really spend time on the basic freeride technique. It’s supposed to build progress and confidence so you won’t be skiing glacier, steeps or anything like that, but rather more mellow freeskiing. Myth 2: ”I’m a skilled skier. I think mountain guides are only for the less experienced new beginners.” It’s great to hear that you’re a strong skier! But even so it’s very likely that you will not have tried everything there is to try on a mountain? Perhaps you want to experience something outside your normal ski box, for example a nice rappel into a couloir or something similar? In which case you’d be very “ I S I T S A F E TO DAY ? ”
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welcome! And, no matter how strong a skier you are, we suspect you still want to find the local steep powder secrets. Why are guides the best way to deep powder?
Simply, because we have the best local knowledge. With a network of people skiing every day, in every corner of the area, we are able to keep updated on pretty much everything around here. I don’t want to brag, but if we fail to find good snow then there probably isn’t any around. Of course, bad snow days happen too. But if you’re willing to walk a little bit, we almost always find good skiing. Who is your “normal client”?
It is usually someone on a long weekend, looking to build their skills or work colleagues, around the 30 to 50 year old category. It is very often people who want to get the best out of their days here, and don’t want to spend a lot of time planning the skiing or searching for good snow. Who do you think should hire a mountain guide and who’s not often doing it?
Couples who used to ski a lot previously and now have kids they want to introduce to their favorite hobby in a safe way. But also people who are here for a week, and want to get to know the different big runs in the ski area better for a day or two. Daniel Perret works at Engelberg Mountain Guide together with his guide colleagues. Pay them a visit if you want to know more. They also share office with Prime Ski School.. engelbergmountainguide.ch
OTHER GREAT GUIDE OPTIONS IN ENGELBERG: tobiasgranath.com jkguide.ch rockandpowder.ch
This may look like five lost skiers. But it’s actually four happy skiers and mountain guide, Daniel Perret, who’s leading them safely through glacier terrain to the nearby Tierberglihütte (which you can see from the top of Titlis).
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Happy training OVER RECENT YEARS IT SEEMS LIKE SKI MAGAZINES, OUTDOOR TYPES AND EVERY TOM, DICK AND HARRY HAVE BEEN WRITING ABOUT THE GROWING SKI TOURING TREND. AND HOPEFULLY, IT WILL KEEP ON GROWING IN THE FUTURE TOO. WHY? BECAUSE, NOT ONLY IS IT A GREAT WAY OF TRAINING WITHOUT THAT TRAINING FEELING, BUT IT’S ALSO THE PERFECT WAY OF FINDING YOU AND YOUR SKIS ON TOP OF GREAT RUNS WITH UNTOUCHED POWDER! FOR SOME EASY ACCESSED TOUR TIPS, KEEP READING.
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SCHAFBERG
We’re extra fond of the Schafberg tour for two reasons. The first is when snow conditions are settled and safe enough, and allow you to tour directly from Jochpass, you are able to get a lot of downhill for the uphill. A kind of positive altitude reward, and who doesn’t like that. And even if you start the tour at Engstlensee and hike the run backwards, it still manages to put a great big smile on your face. The second reason is that both aspects, north and south, are included in the run. Depending on if it’s a powder or slush day, Schafberg will have something for you. Some days you can even get both! When you’re at the top, don’t forget to look for aliens. You’ll understand what we mean when you’re there... W E N D E N LÜ C K E
We have already mentioned this tour twice in these pages, which says a lot about how much we like it. So read our full declaration of love on page 10, and remember that even when conditions are not at their best, the hike is still worth it, just to take in the view down to the other side. GROSS TITLIS
If you want to stand on top of the highest peak in the area then Gross Titlis is the hike to do. It’s only 210 vertical meters from the top of the ski area, and due to the wonderful snow shoe trail breakers, there’s often a ”staircase” to the top, especially good for those who want
a tour but don’t have ski touring equipment. Once you’re at the top, a stunning 3238 m above sea level, you will immediately forget your tired legs and instead place your focus on the stunning peaks that surround Engelberg, such as the Spannort which feels like it’s in touching distance to the far away Jungfrau massif. After taking in such natural beauty clicking in for the downhill will feel exceptionally invigorating, but remember to switch on, know the route and have the right equipment as it’s partly over glacier terrain. T I T L I S R U N DTO U R
If you feel like you’ve toured mostly around the ski area, and now fancy extending your boundaries to include a bigger adventure, the Titlis Rundtour is a great option. You will need to hire a mountain guide for this one though as there is more than one place where ropes and harnesses are needed. It’s a great tour for those with strong legs and an appetite to learn more and build on the basics. The tour will involve rappelling through tricky sections and a traverse over the great Wendengletscher. Before you embark on the last and biggest ascent, we recommend you eat your packed lunch in the cozy Grassenbiwak – an unmanned mountain hut which is particularly memorable. You are also able to spend the night there when you’re on your way to even bigger adventures. Ask your mountain guide and he will be able to point a few of them out!
GEAR AND SAFETY
Not everyone is interested in gear and tech and some may have even missed a thing or two on recent equipment developments. We are definitely not suggesting that equipment makes the skier, but we have been so excited over the last few years as there have been some genuine innovations and progress. In particular where good downhill freeriding skis, boots and bindings have almost merged with their uphill siblings, creating equipment we could only have dreamt about ten years ago. These days there actually is a light boot with a good walk-mode and which still feels like a ”real boot” once you attach the heel and aim your tips towards the valley. Is there a need for all this equipment excitement? Well, we want to see more people enjoy touring and maximising their day out, but we also see so many on old and/or heavy ski touring equipment that definitely makes it a bit harder to enjoy a long day in the backcountry. So if you’re aiming at doing more ski touring, an equipment update will actually make things more enjoyable! And the safety? In the mountains, that’s something that should constantly be on top of our minds. When ski touring it can be even more important, since you’re often further away from help, and sometimes in areas where phones don’t work (imagine that!). Always take a shovel, a probe in your backpack and a transceiver (switched on) on your body, and read the safety instructions on page 12 again and again. SKI LODGE BULLETIN | 29
Mountain refuelling NO MATTER HOW STRONG OR FAST YOU ARE, A FULL DAY ON THE MOUNTAIN WILL REQUIRE SOME KIND OF FUEL. WHETHER YOU LIKE A SMALL POWER SNACK PACKED INTO LAPS OR LEISURELY COURSES OF THE BEST ITALIAN OR SWISS CUISINE, THERE’S SOMETHING FOR YOU. you will be skiing, there will always be a good option to cure your powder turn induced hunger. At the bottom of Laub you have the Ritz Gerschnialp, where we strongly recommend the käseschnitte, especially (and only) if you like cheese! When we play around in the Sulz area, and when the legs plead for a rest, we often swing by the self service restaurant at Bärghuis Jochpass. It may not look fancy, but the daily soup is always good, and the traditional apple macaronis is incredible and tastes as good as it sounds weird. We’re extra eager to eat at the restaurants on the Titlis side of the mountain this winter as they have a new culinary manager, and ex Michelin Star chef, Ulf Braunert, in charge. We asked him about his philosophy on food and if anything is likely to change? – I like to prepare the food with regional and seasonal products. All the restaurants will have different menus and signature dishes. My recommendation is to try the new Italian restaurant at Trübsee, Lago Torbido! We are fans of Italian food, and the self service neighboring restaurant is a great option for a faster lunch, while Skihütte Stand (one short lift ride away) is perfect for longer sittings and set in an elegant environment. And never forget the schnitzel, especially the best schnitzel in the world, which Engelberg’s fastest snowboarder, Bimba, claims you can have at the bottom of the Galtiberg.
REGARDLESS OF WHERE
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No matter how good our restaurants are, there’s something special about taking your own lunch and eating it outside, half way up a mountain. That’s freedom!
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Modern lifts? No. Easy to find a parking spot? Yes.
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The Valley WE ARE CERTAIN THAT YOU WILL NEVER GET TIRED OF THE SKIING ON TITLIS; IT IS THE BEST MOUNTAIN IN THE WORLD AFTER ALL! BUT WE ALSO KNOW THAT WE SHOULD NOT BECOME A ONE EYED SKIING MONSTER, AS THERE ARE SOME LONG, POWDERY GEMS LOCATED NEARBY. AS LONG AS YOU DON’T MIND LEAVING THE LUXURY AND CONVENIENCE OF A MODERN SKI RESORT WAY BEHIND YOU THEN ANOTHER LEVEL OF ADVENTURE AWAITS! T H E L I F T S D O W N the valley are nothing like Titlis, or even Brunni. First of all they are almost hidden and you even wonder if they might just be an Alpine myth, but when you find them it is a great start for your next adventure. Once again, we highly recommend hiring a mountain guide. This is not only because of the safety aspect, or even the obvious joy and liberation of skiing under local guidance. No, the main reason is that several of the lifts are actually not even ski lifts, instead they act primarily as transport for high alpine farmers and which can sometimes double up as a powder express, but figuring that out requires a conversation with the local lift owners and Swiss German language skills of mega 2000! Having a guide also helps
when you get to the top, as there are no slopes or signs, just big mountains brimming with deep turns. Local knowledge is essential, we promise. One of our favorites is the Haldigrat lift, which is basically a chair lift in the middle of nowhere. You get there by taking the the gondola from Dallenwil to Niederrickenbach, and then walk along the only street there is until you reach the bottom of the lift. It takes about half an hour to walk although you can ski parts of it when conditions allow. But before you start the walk, make sure it’s open! Kurt, the owner, usually runs it on weekends, apart from the days when he decides to run it in the middle of the week instead. And that is one of the reasons why we love it so much!
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SKIER HENRIK WINDSTEDT & JOHAN JONSSON | LOCATION STEINBERG
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SKIER HENRIK CARSTON OLIVER | LOCATION WENDENLÜCKE
PHOT
O
GALLERY
The magicians lens OSKAR ENANDER WAS ONE OF THE FIRST SWEDES TO ARRIVE IN ENGELBERG, AND CERTAINLY ONE OF THE FIRST TO APPRECIATE ITS UNIQUE PLACE IN ALPINE SKIING. IT WASN’T IMMEDIATE THOUGH AND ARRIVING FOR THE FIRST TIME IN LATE 2001, THERE WAS A GREAT DEAL MORE INTEREST IN THE BEER THAN PHOTOGRAPHY. BUT SOMEWHERE BETWEEN THE LATE NIGHTS AT THE LEGENDARY NIGHTCLUB, SPINDLE, HE TOOK THE FIRST STUMBLING STEPS TOWARDS THE BRILLIANT CAREER HE’S NOW ESTABLISHED.
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– I T ’ S H A R D TO know where I would have been without Engelberg. Probably not anywhere near where I am today. This place has always been such a melting pot of talented professional and amateur skiers, photographers, cinematographers, mountain guides, hard shredding locals and all round good times. But the most important ingredient is the surrounding mountains. It is an incredible backdrop and the skiing you can reach from the lifts, or just with a small hike, is extremely hard to beat. Oskar is the only ski photographer to have won Powder Magazine’s Photo of the Year three times. Commonly understood as the most prestigious competition for ski photographers in the world, many of the most highly regarded and published photographers are unable to lay claim to even a single trophy, let alone three! And that’s partly down to Oskar and his approach – he always prefers one extremely good photo to five good ones (but it’s all relative as we know he often ends up with five extremely good ones anyhow). So where did he learn to shoot photos like this? – I learned photography in the mountains. I have no formal photography education and just… created my own style. I suppose having more freedom, or no pre conceived ideas, has helped. But I’ve also been fortunate enough to work with a lot of talented skiers who also have creative minds and a conversation around the shots always makes it better. But I think the best photos just happen, and often I can’t explain why I shot a photo in exactly that way. It’s just something... you know. ”That’s the frame.” And few other photographers can see things the way Oskar does, even those who work closely with him aren’t always aware of what’s happening. Oskar is naturally a calm and easygoing person, which follows him out on a shoot and it is very unlikely you will see any emotional storms. But when his pictures are downloaded, the photos look like nothing else, an explosion of talent and creativity and likely better than anything else that has gone before. He wouldn’t say that though.
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SKIER MATTIAS HARGIN & JONAS ENGELIN | LOCATION ENGELBERG
If you want to buy any of Oskar’s photographs in this gallery, in the rest of the magazine or one of those hanging on the walls in the hotel, just talk to the reception and they will help you out!
SKIER PIERS SOLOMON | LOCATION LAUB
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SKIER JOHAN JONSSON | LOCATION ENGELBERG
SKIER PIERS SOLOMON | LOCATION SULZ
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Rider: Christopher Baud
Photo: Johan Wildhagen
LIVE TO PLAY ANOTHER DAY
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SKIER CHRISTOF SCHENK | LOCATION ENGELBERG/FBI – FABIAN BÖSCH INVITATIONAL
FBI Don’t worry, the US federal bureau
is not after us (at least as far as we know). No, FBI is short for the
’Fabian Bösch Invitational’, and it’s the local hero’s own competition. Many of the world’s best freestyle skier’s came to Engelberg for the first edition of this incredible shred fest. A huge (h u g e) jump was built on top of Titlis, and when we admired Oskar Enander’s photos from the sunset session, we could easily understand why the plan is to make this an annual event!
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TO-DO
DON’T OVER DO IT, BUT DO WHAT YOU CAN!
S K I A DAY W I T H A M O U N TA I N G U I D E . Quite simply the best way to learn about spending time safely in the mountains whilst being treated to the best skiing available. What’s not to like!? S K I T H E B I G 5 . Not because you can tick it off your bucket list, but because it’s great skiing! F E E L E X T R A B A DA S S ? S K I T H E B I G 5 I N A DAY. You might have to get up early and have legs of steel, but you will have definitely earned the bragging rights at the apres ski. Although the rights may not last long as you’ll probably fall asleep at the bar before your second beer! B A C K O F F. Being able to turn around if your gut feeling, or mother nature’s signs, say ”no” is sometimes hard, especially when there’s a great powder run in front of you. But it’s very important to know that turning around is never a bad decision. Think about it all the time and never rely on lady luck.
The best way to exercise if you like skiing. Rent equipment if you don’t have your own and hire a mountain guide to get the best out of the experience.
T R Y S K I TO U R I N G .
PA C K A LU N C H A N D E AT I T O U T S I D E O N T H E M O U N TA I N .
Preferably at some high and mind bogglingly beautiful point, reached under your own steam by ski touring. D O A B A C K F L I P. We know it sounds crazy, but after a big dump, snow is often a lot softer to land in than water. Build a nice steep jump, practice with a few test runs and soon you’ll nail it! (If your kids do it instead it’s still ok to semi-tick this box but you’ll have to buy them ice cream for the rest of the stay.)
As potatoes, pasta, cheese, onions and mashed apples sounds like an odd combination it took a while before we tried the Älplermagronen. However, it tastes great and it opened up our eyes and minds to all the other great dishes in the valley. The local cheeses don’t need any introduction though – they are simply great and should be consumed in vast quantities!
T R Y LO C A L S P E C I A L I T I E S .
There’s still a misunderstanding that wide skis are harder to ski. In the powder it’s the complete opposite. So borrow, or rent a pair, and feel the sensation of skiing faster with more control. And make bigger powder sprays in the process!
TRY WIDER SKIS.
Combined with modern boots and bindings, you will understand why light is right!
TRY LIGHTER SKIS.
S T R E TC H . Unfortunately you can’t tick this box just by stretching once. But a 75 % stretch ratio will get you there, and will almost certainly make many parts of your body feel a lot better, especially if you skied the big 5 in a day!
Ticking the box above is important, but we’d really recommend you pretend like you’re eighteen again (that is if you’re not actually eighteen) and at least for one après. Maybe even have a burger from the bar menu and skip dinner. But as we’re not eighteen anymore (and have suffered pretending to be, you won’t though, honest!) it’s ok to cheat with a lot of water before bed – you don’t want to miss the next ski day!
H AV E A P R O P E R A P R È S I N YO U R S K I B O OT S .
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Mix a taste of the Lodge back home
Blackberry Infusion
Ingredients 4 2 1,5 1,5 8
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cl cl cl cl cl
Singelton Lemon juice Sugar syrup Creme de müre Cranberry juice
H OT E L M A R T I O O F N N I All our ROOMS have en-suite bathrooms, LED TV and free WiFi. Our towels are changed every fourth day, or more often on request.
RENTAL SKIS are available at several places. Our front desk staff can help you find the best option for your needs.
The RECEPTION is open daily from 7.30am until late. If you have any questions after hours, you can always ask the bartender, or call +41 78 675 33 66.
We have eight PARKING spots in front of the hotel. If they are occupied, ask the staff for the closest option.
BREAKFAST is served from 7am to 10am.
The BAR is open daily and from 4 pm you can order food from the bar menu. Our RESTAURANT BRASSERIE KONRAD is open daily from 6 pm. Choose between à la carte selections or a prix fixe three course Skier’s Dinner. SMOKING is of course strictly prohibited inside Ski Lodge. If you ignore this, you will have 500 CHF less to spend on the après ski.
Avoid the queues at base station and purchase your SKI PASS at our reception desk. Please leave your ski equipment in the
SKI AND BOOT ROOM in the blue
house basement. We’ve even installed boot warmers for you!
Fancy a SAUNA AND HOT TUB ? Our reception staff can book an appointment for you. Hiring a MOUNTAIN GUIDE assures a safe and fantastic day on the mountain. The reception staff can help you book one.
The name of our FREE WIFI is Ski Lodge and the password is Nagano98. Surf around, but please wait until you get home before you download all seasons of Sopranos. In case of EMERGENCY , call 144 for an ambulance or 117 for the police. If there’s a FIRE , stay calm and follow the instructions listed on the inside of the door. Fire extinguishers are located by the staircase on every floor. Our dear Powder Express minibus provides
AIRPORT TRANSFER in a bit more than
one hour. Although the train to the airport leaves from outside the hotel, you’ll have to add another hour to the trip. If you want to EAT OUT or experience the vibrant Engelberg NIGHT LIFE , our reception staff will clue you in with latest and greatest info on where to go.
For FOOD AND DRINK SHOPPING , the COOP is open 7.30 am to 20.00 pm on weekdays, to 18.00 on weekends. During low season, the COOP is closed on Sundays.
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Ruchstock
Hahnen
Engelberger Rotstock
2811
2606
Gr. Spannort 3198
2818
Fürenalp 1850
Schonegg 2040
Rigidalalp
Brunnihütte
Panoramaweg
1860
Horbis Neuschwändi Eienwäldli
Rodelbahn
Klostermatte Globis Winterland
Yeti-Park
Ristis 1606
Kloster Flühmatt Museum
Sprungschanze Sporting Park
Engelberg 1050
Bahnhof
Schwand
B RU N N I H Ü T T E
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Sporthalle
Bergli
HOME
Gschneit
n
er
z Lu
Nachtloipe
Ror
Titlis 3239
Klein Titlis 3028
Kl. Spannort
Reissend Nollen 3003
Stotzig Egg
3140
Ice Flyer
Rotair
Gletscherlift Rotstöckli
2450
Jochstock
Steinberg
Rotegg
2564
Stand 2428
Jochstock Xpress Laubersgrat Obstacle-Park
Jochpass 2207
Engstlenalp
Speedstrecke
Rindertitlis
Laub
Jochpass
Graustock
Trübsee 1800
Trübsee-Hopper
Rutschpark
Alpstübli
Obertrübsee
Ritz
Älplerseil
Gerschnialp
Standard Kanonenrohr
1262
Untertrübsee
S K I H Ü T T E STA N D
L AU B
RITZ GERSCHNIALP
G A LT I B E RG
ST E I N B E RG
B E RG H OT E L T RÜ B S E E
SULZ
B E RG H AU S J O C H PA S S
W E N D E LÜ C K E
AVA L A N C H E TRAINING CENTER
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NEXT SEASON
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04 // WHEN THE WINTER IS GONE
17 // MOUNTAIN MEETINGS
06 // HIKING
18 // ROLLING DOWN
10 // ROPE GAMES 14 // RUN FREE
THE MOUNTAINS
22 // SUMMER MAP
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When the snow is gone WE’VE SAID IT BEFORE, AND WE’LL SAY IT AGAIN: SUMMER IS NOT AN OFF-SEASON, IT’S JUST A DIFFERENT SEASON. AND EVERY YEAR IT BUILDS A BIGGER AND BIGGER HOME IN OUR HEARTS. fashion to how we explore new ski tours and powder runs in winter, we now spend big parts of the summer around Engelberg, searching the mountains for our favorite trail runs or mountain bike tours. Just like the winter season, the more you explore the more the mountains open up, and the more corners we peek around it gets clearer that we’re only scratching the surface of the valley’s potential. The choice of a great golf course, newly built bike park, climbing for all levels, trail running and hiking in incredible mountain scenery is unreal. When summer is so great it really makes us wonder why it’s mostly Engelberg’s winter face that is seen by the crowds, but take it from us, summer is just as beautiful and rewarding.
IN A SIMILAR
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Hiking IF YOU’D ASK US, THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH HIKING IN ENGELBERG, IS THAT IT’S SUCH A HARD TIME CHOOSING WHICH TRAIL TO DO.
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offers great opportunities for everyone, regardless of skill or experience level. You could be a veteran scrambler, able to go for days – sending your altimeter into overdrive, or you could be someone who is more at ease with a relaxing stroll as you suck in the best views mother nature has to offer. One thing is for sure though, there’s something for everyone and you are guaranteed a stunning view wherever you look. The range and variety of hiking trails in and around Engelberg is almost endless. So much so ”our favorite hike” has to change annually as we find new hiking gems to explore. Sometimes ”our favorite hike” changes during the year, as we explore and turn new corners into more jaw dropping nature. So don’t be afraid to ask one of our staff for a recommendation, but be prepared as you’re unlikely to get the same answer from more than one person. The hike to SURENENPASS is one that we will never tire of. It’s big, so we often choose to shorten it by taking the gondola
HIKING AROUND ENGELBERG
at Fürenalp, up and/or down. It is a mixed terrain trail with the lower section being on small roads and bigger trails. And the closer you get to the top the trickier things become as it features more technical trails. ”To the delicious apple pies” is what the Engelberg Outdoor Guide says about the hike to RUGGHUBELHÜTTE . It’s fair to say that we have certainly enjoyed the apple pies, more than once, but we still like to claim that the main reason we take the trail is due to the beautiful view over the whole of the Engelberg valley. Honest. Newly discovered favorites are the trails around HALDIGRAT AND BRISEN which lie a bit lower down the valley. The ridges in this area may look intimidating at first, but once you’re on them they definitely lose their edge and provide more fun than fright. Be sure to have a snack or lunch at the cozy Brisenhaus if possible. If you want to go on bigger and more advanced hikes (like to Hahnen or the Grassenbiwak) we recommend you hire a mountain guide.
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ROPE GAMES
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be known as a famous climbing destination, or be the first to spring to mind when you think of a rope focussed get-away. But as we build up our list of climbed routes and add to our knowledge of the crags in the valley, we’re pretty confident that we’re sitting in a climbing wonderland soon to hit the spotlight. But we won’t be shouting it out from the rooftops just yet, as one of the great things about climbing in Engelberg, is that it is still a hidden gem that not many people know about. And, a less crowded wall means more space and intimate rock moments for those venturing into the vertical world.
E N G E L B E R G M AY N OT
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Experienced climbers will find worldclass limestone climbing on the TITLIS NORTH WALL , WENDENSTÖCKE and SCHLOSSBERG . But if you’re looking for a smaller mission with a great overhang and variety, then the SCHLÄNNGEN wall, just next to the golf course, is perfect. You can even admire some fairway shots as you hang upside down. For the beginners there are lots of options available, both on Brunni and also several places a bit further down the valley. We really recommend that you contact one of the guide agencies as they will help you with everything from equipment to developing the basic skills. Plus they will definitely help your confidence and support you in building the right knowledge to get going in the right way. 12 | SKI LODGE BULLETIN
VIA FERRATA , which is essentially another kind of climbing, is a great option for both beginners and experienced climbers who want to get the feeling of a bigger wall. The Via Ferrata approach, where you are always attached to a series of ladders, bridges and wires bolted to the wall, is certainly one of the safest ways to move around high above the ground. Our favorite is the FĂœRENALPWAND which still manages to fill our stomachs with butterflies no matter how many times we do it. SKI LODGE BULLETIN | 13
Run free
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TRAINING FOR A RACE? JOGGING WITH YOUR PARTNER? JUST GETTING OUTSIDE TO RAISE YOUR PULSE? TRAIL RUNNING IS A GREAT OPTION FOR THEM ALL! AND ENGELBERG JUST HAPPENS TO BE PERFECTLY SUITED TO ALL LEVELS OF TRAIL RUNNING. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS TIE YOUR LACES.
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T H E R E W A S A time when we, like millions of others, enjoyed the simplicity of running along asphalt roads with one main goal in mind; to get faster. Of course it still happens every now and again, but after being initiated to real mountain trail running, it becomes harder and harder to find the motivation to keep treading that path. Trail running, just like winter ski touring, is a growing trend that only deserves to get bigger and bigger. It is incredibly good training, but equally important is that it’s a great way of getting out into the mountains, sometimes very far away, and where you can suck in litres of the cleanest and finest air around. Engelberg is littered with trails just waiting to be explored. Everything from a full day mission to shorter jogs close to the town. Above the treeline the views are unforgettable, but we also think that the diverse, lush, green forests which are only minutes from the hotel, are well worth a visit as well. Perfect for those calm, quiet runs that are good for the soul. Close to the Bänklialp Restaurant you will find the ”Vita Parcours”, a ”fitness trail” which lasts approximately two kilometers and features different stations to develop your strength. If you manage to add all the stations into your run, your exercise will be more than complete. However, it’s still in the high alpine that the best trails in Engelberg are to be found, and there seems to be an almost unlimited supply of great options. Running on trails you know well, where you don’t have to worry so much about route finding and what’s underfoot, definitely provides an energy boost. But seeing something new is refreshing and is rewarded by a sense of freedom you can only really tap into when running along a high trail surrounded by a breathtaking mountain landscape. You can start your run in the village, but don’t feel like you’re cheating if you use one of the lifts as a kickstart for your adventure. Any way that allows you to run further and higher is a good thing and should be encouraged. Another good piece of advice is to check out the trails further down the valley. The mountains there may be a bit different, and a tad smaller, but the terrain is still magnificent.
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Mountain meetings IF YOU HAVE READ THE OTHER SUMMER SEASON PAGES IN THIS MAGAZINE, YOU PROBABLY ALREADY HAVE A SENSE OF WHY SETTING UP YOUR NEXT BUSINESS CONFERENCE HERE IS SUCH A GOOD IDEA. Engelberg we believe that the greatest ideas are created during an extended lunch break in a truly inspiring environment, rather than from a dull conference hotel room. And in Engelberg, there are inspirational environments and experiences galore. Why not play a fast nine holes at our golf course. Or maybe a quick trail run to get some alpine oxygen through the system before the afternoon strategy meeting. We’re afraid there may be a misunderstanding in some companies, especially that a business conference should not be too much fun. But we disagree wholeheartedly. We know ourselves that as a business our most tricky questions were never solved in the office, but in the middle of a complicated climb or a pulse raising activity. Ideas may have to be processed and shared in a computer at some point, but by blending technology and nature your brain will sooner or later come up with some wonderful insights and ideas.
AT S K I LO D G E
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Rolling down the mountains T H E R E I S O F T E N an invisible line drawn between one activity and another; where you are almost forced to identify with one tribe or another. It’s a bit like this with trail running in the mountains and biking. But we won’t choose sides and are proud members of both tribes, very happy to see the advantages of suspension in shoes as much as in bike forks. But as skier’s we feel that biking is a perfect complement to our fitness and help in keeping our minds sharp, especially practicing speed control and reactionary line choice. Engelberg has trails everywhere, in all directions. Many of them are shared with hikers and runners, but they are definitely not crowded. Some take you along winding dirt roads and wider trails, while some of them are best suited to the very experienced rider. Switzerland is known for its railways and one of the many brilliant ideas they had years ago was to allow you to take your bike on the train. For the trails that end down the valley this is the perfect option to get home, especially if you are
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not inclined to pedal back up all the way. The downhill biking around Jochpass has been updated with fantastic new trails. Professional trail builders have worked their magic to create some serious fun, especially for those who love a flowy trail. And who doesn’t? Another piece of Switzerland we love is the never-ending selection of small cheese factories, mountain huts and cozy restaurants which always pop up where you’d least expect them to be. A pedal up to the very top of Surenenpass is quite technical and we have never found a problem in skipping it to indulge in an extra cheese platter at Stäfeli instead. The locals always have secret trails, to find them we recommend you buy them a beer at the après bike. And don’t forget the train option – ending up in a different valley is a stress free adventure in this part of the world. Road bikers also have a variety of tours to choose from. There’s asphalt, there are hairpin turns and there are mountains – what more could we ask for? Stronger legs maybe...
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Moments of so called ”epic biking”. The view over Engstlensee is included. Up-mountain Engelberg. Patric Bernhard feeling free on the trail to Rugghubelhütte.
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HIKING
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HOME
V I A F E R R ATA
BIKE TRAIL
E P I C T R A I L RU N N I N G
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