Fine Wines & Rare Spirits 3078B | Thursday, February 15 | 6PM | Boston
Please Note: Quotes cited as TWA used by permission of The Wine Advocate. Tasting notes attributed to AW are Anna Ward, and those to MCK are Marie Keep.
Welcome to our new magazine format! As we embrace the digital age with vigor, we’re rethinking the traditional catalog format; while handsome, it does challenge us with its formality and carved in stone finality. I hope the pages in this more modern streamlined format satisfy your desire to focus for a moment on the simple but beautiful aesthetics of the bottles and linger on what they hold, and compel you to browse our website more fully in search of wines you know you’re looking for, and most especially, those that you don’t. With every lot being sold photographed for the auction web pages, the Fine Wines & Rare Spirits department is able to continually update the content as clients request more images and condition notes; we may even add in a lot or two to keep it lively. In undergoing a catalogto-magazine metamorphosis, we’re taking heed of your preferred method of seeking up-to-the moment auction information online while also gaining greater agility in how we respond to collections as they come to us; we’re honing our ability to bring you, our valued buyer, collections fresh to the market. In this issue, we focus on the two pillars of our February 15th auction, Winter’s Collection and the Nantucket Cellar, interspersing images of the wines with background and musings. It’s a quick read from cover to cover—if it leaves you wanting more, please head to our website. As always, if you have any questions, call. In Vino Veritas,
G. Conterno (detail left) Barolo Reserva Monfortino 1987, 1 bottle; Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1964, 1 bottle; Barolo Riserva Speciale Monfortino 1978, 1 bottle, $2,500-3,250
Winter’s Collection This collection cuts deep into the heart of regions that spark our acquisitive natures. Jaw-dropping Champagnes, a robust study in Rhones, and an enviable collection of Barbarescos and Barolos from legendary vintages make up this offering. This curated selection of wines shows true pleasure in the art of collecting. All bottles were meticulously stored in a custom-built temperature- and humidity-controlled cellar before removal by Skinner staff. Highlights include an impressive collection of Domaine Guigal’s top-rated La Las as well as a Bruno Giacosa’s prized red Riserva labels.
"The 2009 Proprietary Blend Harlan Estate is just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. Cloves, dark plums, cherries, smoke and graphite add richness and resonance to this powerful, incisive wine. Juicy and exuberant, the 2009 has always had a certain raciness that is impossible to resist. Layers of fruit continue to build to the enveloping, sensual finish. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this hugely delicious wine. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034." A. Galloni for TWA, 97 pts. 12/12
It’s always a privilege to be in the presence of an open bottle of Salon Champagne. This astounding wine, made entirely in the style of Blanc de Blancs, is sourced from the same legendary vineyards surrounding the village of Le Mesnil Sur Oger that Eugène-Aimé Salon selected over 100 years ago. The principles of Salon are “freshness, cleanness, elegance, and precision,” and because the wine is only bottled in the best vintages, cellar master
Salon Champagne 1985, 4 bottles, $2,000-2,800
Michel Faurconnet can ensure all exacting standards are met. Age
opposite: Harlan Estate 2009, 6 bottles, $2,100-3,250
becomes Salon Champagne; angles soften into curves, revealing a mature beauty. –AW
Domaine Guigal Domaine Guigal’s La Las, as they’re affectionately coined, paint a vivid picture of the rugged Rhone landscape in which each vineyard lies. La Mouline, situated in a natural amphitheater and sheltered from the strong winds, basks in the southern sun. La Turque, the youngest acquisition of the three vineyards, has the benefit of being the only vineyard in the Côte Brune to see the first rays of sun to the very last. La Landonne is the most structured of the three wines, as it is vinified with the whole cluster, extracting all possible natural tannins. The Guigals say that although much technical work goes into the wine, the nuances of each are born in the vineyards. Etienne Guigal, the venerable founder, instilled a rigorous fermentation process at the Domaine using all means possible to coax every tiny distinction from the terroir—from precisely when to harvest the vineyards to the lengthy oak aging (up to 42 months). And the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree; Marcel Guigal, Etienne’s son and successor, built a cooperage on site, which may have started as a passion project but is another finely faceted detail the Domaine now has control over. When describing a La La powerful observations are often made: massive concentration, phenomenal texture, robust tannins. A headiness lies in wait amongst the exotic tastes—raw meats, rich olive tapenade, oriental spices, and garrigue—the French word for the wild bush herbs intoxicating the air of the Rhone. Impressive as the evolution of the Domaine has been thus far—from Etienne’s ingenuity to Marcel’s exacting standards—the new generation is well poised to carry on the tradition, and with Philippe Guigal at the helm, will surely continue to enthrall.
Highlights from a wide selection of Dom. Guigal Dom. Guigal La Landonne 1988, 6 bottles, $2,700-4,000 R. Parker for TWA, 100 pts. 12/96 Dom. Guigal La Mouline 1989-1991, 3 bottles, $1,400-2,100 R. Parker for TWA, 12/96: 1989, 98 pts.; 1990, 99 pts.; 1991, 100 pts. Dom. Guigal La Turque 2003, 6 bottles, $2,200-3,250 R. Parker for TWA, 100 pts. 12/96
Highlights from a wide selection of B. Giacosa
B. Giacosa Barolo Collina Rionda Riserva Speciale 1978, 1 bottle $1,600-2,800
Bruno Giacosa In memoriam: Bruno Giacosa (b. 1930–d. January 22, 2018) Bruno Giacosa’s history is intertwined
"The 1996 Barolo Falletto de
throughout Piedmont like a gnarled vine.
Serralunga (Red Label Riserva)
Angelo Gaia in a 2013 Decanter article
possesses extraordinary
reflected “Bruno Giacosa knew the vineyards
presence and stature. Dark
in minute detail: every sorì, every winding path,
garnet/ruby-colored, it offers
every ridge, every headland, he had tasted the
a tight but promising nose of
grapes everywhere.”
road tar, scorched earth, truffles, blackberries, cherries, and
Bruno was revolutionary in many ways, yet
espresso. This muscular, massive
he always retained a traditional perspective
wine gave me chills. It is an
and fundamental respect for the past in his
exquisite, virtually perfect Barolo
approach to winemaking during a time of
that requires a decade of cellaring,
great change and development in Piedmont.
and should last for 30-40 years. I
In practice he gracefully walked the line
remember wishing I were twenty
between tradition and modernization. Giacosa
years younger when I tasted it
never studied enology; as a third-generation
prior to bottling ... I still feel the
winemaker he learned his techniques from
same way. Awesome! Anticipated
his father and grandfather. However, much to
maturity: 2010-2040." R. Parker
the dissatisfaction of his family, Bruno broke
for TWA, 98 pts. 06/01
from the regional norms of selling wine to negociants so that he could bottle his own wine, making the Giacosa label what it is today. A strong advocate of single-vineyard wines versus blends, his wines always leaned towards the exquisitely restrained over the robust. To forge one’s own path is an admirable and lifelong pursuit, so perhaps it is Giacosa’s humanism—his struggles and successes— that is transcendent in his wines. Though his work lives on in the bottle, he will be deeply missed.
Giacosa Falletto Serralunga d’Alba Riserva 1996, 4 bottles, $1,400-2,200
Nantucket Cellar
Chateau Cos d’Estournel sits atop Cos hillside, a pinnacle on the D2. The exoticism of east
Nantucket Island, known for its high-profile residents, harrowing travel options, and delicious bay scallops, is a place fine wine naturally gravitates. For years this passionate collector immersed himself by sourcing the wines, walking the vineyards, and meeting the producers. Rich pockets of Bordeaux and the Rhone reveal a deep appreciation for both regions along with Burgundy, Piedmont, and California rounding out this already lustrous cellar. Skinner specialists spent many happy hours in this custombuilt temperature- and humidity-controlled cellar, swapping stories of vineyard visits and discussing the particulars of wines. Amassed over 20+ years, we are very pleased to offer this collection of a true connoisseur. Part II of the Nantucket Collection will be offered in our April online auction.
India, from the Taj style of its outward architectural elements to the elephants flanking the Chateau’s internal wine archive hints at the perfume of its wines. Chateau Cos d’Estournel was in the vanguard of the continuing Bordeaux modernization of cellar design and vinicultural methods, using a gravity driven process to allow the Chateau’s terroir to unfold, drawing out its signature heady exotic spice in wines of incredible finesse, purity, and supple balance.
view all lots online at www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/3078B at left: Highlight from a large selection of Ch. Cos d’Estournel Chateau Cos d’Estournel Vertical (1966-67, 1970, 1972-76, 1978-82, 1985-86, 1988-90, 1995), 19 bottles, $1,600-2,400
below: Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1996, 12 bottles (owc), $9,500-12,000 N. Martin for TWA, 98 pts. 10/16
Chateau Cheval Blanc 1982, 2 bottles, $1,000-1,400
Chateau Haut Brion 1982, 1 bottle, $550-750 R. Parker for TWA, 95 pts. 07/16
1982—Long a vintage sought and sighed over, the window for joyous drinking is upon us. Fortunate enough to have recently tasted the Chateau Lafite Rothschild 1982 and prepared for something reasonably Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1982, 2 bottles, $1,600-2,400 R. Parker for TWA, 100 pts. 06/09
less than the mythological reports, I was stunned by its intricate, pure beauty and unbelievable balance and resonance. This trio, only a sampling of the 1982s available in this auction, are well worth your consideration. –MCK
"The 1989 and 1990 vintages find Enrico Scavino at a fascinating intersection between traditional and modern styles. Fermentations and macerations lasted roughly 12-14 days, while pumpovers and punchdowns were still performed manually. The malolactic fermentations were done mostly in small French oak barrels. The wines were aged first in French oak and then in larger casks, an approach similar to the one Scavino employs today. What comes through most in these wines is a decided commitment to low yields which is seen in the sheer concentration and depth of fruit." A. Galloni for TWA, 97 pts. 02/10
P. Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 1990, 6 bottles, $800-1,200
www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/3078B
Various Collections From an assortment of consignors, maintained in ideal cellar conditions
www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/3078B
"The 1990 Chateau Margaux has turned into a sensational wine that eclipses both the 1988 and 1989... and then some. It has a gorgeous, ethereal bouquet with sumptuous red berry fruit, leather, camphor and licorice—it is the kind of nose in which you just immerse yourself. Is there a hint of brettanomyces here? If there is, I don't really care. The palate is soft and sensual with incredible depth. Fleshy and corpulent for Chateau Margaux, and yet surfeit with breeding and finesse, there are layers or red fruit, kirsch, sage and fig, later tobacco and cloves. I feel that this 1990 Château Margaux is at its peak and yet the harmony, the sheer swagger of this wine just wins you over. Magnificent. Tasted May 2016." N. Martin for TWA, 100 pts. 05/16 Chateau Margaux 1990, 12 bottles, $8,000-10,000
opposite: Scarecrow 2013, 3 bottles (owc), $1,500-1,900 R. Parker for TWA, 100 pts. 12/15 Hundred Acre Kayli Morgan Vineyard 2013, 12 bottles, (2 x owc), $3,600-4,800 R. Parker for TWA, 97 pts. 10/16
Ardbeg Provenance 1974, $9,000-12,000 Cardhu 26 Years Old, distilled 1974, $400-500 Very Very Old Fitzgerald 1952, $2,000-2,500 Laphroaig 40 Years Old, $3,000-4,000
opposite: “Antique” Whiskey, distilled 1913, $600-800
Rare Spirits The theme of our spirits offerings is old and new (and in some cases, older and newer!) and we have some special and rare bottlings. At the head of the whisky class is an original six-pack of Ardbeg Provenance, distilled in 1974 and bottled in 2000. Our oldest whisky is a Laphroaig, distilled in 1960 and bottled in 2000 at the life-beginning age of 40. Our earliest vintages are Kentucky bourbons from venerated distilleries. Very Very Old Fitzgerald, distilled in 1952 and bottled in 1964 at the Stitzel-Weller Distillery, comes with a satin-lined presentation case with two gold leaf shot glasses. A pint of OFC was distilled by the George T. Stagg Distillery before Prohibition in 1916 and bottled after Prohibition in 1933. The remaining lots include selections from the modern classics such as the Van Winkle and Buffalo Trace Antique Collection lines.
3078B | Thursday, February 15 | 6PM
Marie Keep
63 Park Plaza, Boston, MA
Anna Ward
preview by appointment
Joseph Hyman
View all lots: skinnerinc.com/auctions/3078B
Lower Falls Wine Company finewines@skinnerinc.com 508.970.3246
MA LIC. 2304
274 Cedar Hill Street Marlborough, MA 01752
PRESORTED
FIRST CLASS U.S. POSTAGE
PAID
PERMIT 8 north reading, MA
www.skinnerinc.com/auctions/3078B