TLO Churn

my experience with them. No worries there, so far, this light rocks. I have been using these in my 3x3 Gorilla Grow Tents. They are 25” square so they fit super snug (perfectly actually) into my tents. The light source footprint is almost the same exact size as the tents’ footprint. Noice!

So far, over the last month using these on some flowering plants has blown my mind pretty well as far as growth rates, wow, seriously. Superior growth rates even to my beloved Eye Blue Hortilux 400-watt HID lights I use in the winter months; for heaters and lights. Trust me, that’s saying a lot. These plants took off so fast they have outgrown their 3-gallon containers on me to some degree, LoL.

The dimmable part I didn’t get at first. But if you are using these lights for full-term lights, and you are running freshly rooted clones just planted into the soil, you can harden them off easily by dimming the lights for a day or two. This really adds to their capabilities as full-term lights. They are also protected from overspray water to a good degree. A very cool perk. 5-year warranty, friendly and helpful peeps in customer service. Always love that.

Not only are all my main branches budding up nicely, but even the sub-canopy of buds is filling in crazy good. No bullshit amigos, growth rates are surprisingly off-the-chain good. Now the real deal for the full-on flowering part I will do later, in the next issue of SKUNK. The only potential “chink in the armor” regarding these lights is that they have a very limited UV spectrum. Should be fine, but it’s my only tiny concern here. Otherwise, these lights are the perfect LED full-term lights. You can chain them together in grow-rooms, or grow dense jungles of buds in grow-tents. Either way.

A Couple Other Things Come to Mind

I got an email recently that thanked me for my advice on cannabis growing. The peep told me that their favorite part about learning from my articles was how it seemed as though we were just sitting at a pub, and I was babbling away. LoL—I gotta say, I love that analogy. I wrote this article in that spirit.

Check out that 420h LED light online at NextLight. Also, check out the Core light at lessor wattage for under $500.00. That was the original light I was looking at for my tents. Along with keeping your lighting all good, make sure all your fundamentals are in place. Anyplace you are weak here, work on just that issue, with your goal only to make it better than it was. Strong fundamentals are what it’s all about growing connoisseur quality buds.

For sure, look into those Plant Warrior pots, they make a real noticeable difference and especially around flowering time— wink. That fast soil blend above doesn’t need any composting, earthworm castings are already composted, and so is any decent quality bagged soil. Just remember not to compact your soil during transplants. No need whatsoever to do so. Stop “fertilizing your plants” with any liquids or extracts, tonics, elixirs, or whatever. This be the source of all your problems maytee, arrrg.

Just dial in a solid water source, groundwater (dechlorinated if needed). Good soil with the castings and perlite. Give it a shot, see what you see. It might change your life for the better—ya never know—heh heh. L8r G8rs, I’ll see ya all next time here at SKUNK!

Hola dudes and dudettes, welcome. Today I have a really badass dynamic to show you. It’s inexpensive to use, a gallon pitcher, air pump, air-stone, a couple of basic all-natural additions, and some good groundwater without chlorine (monochloramine) present. For ‘The Churn’ you could even use distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water. Basically, you will set up this pitcher the same way you would make an organic living tea. Aerate it the same.

For larger gardens, you could use a 5-gallon bucket as your TLO Churn; or even trashcans. The Churn is a lot like a tea in some ways, however, it is more mineral-based with some organic additions as well, and it is highly concentrated. This all makes a wonderful balance in The Churn of… life x air x water x food = wow! The application of what comes from The Churn (the high PPM water/solution) is constant and added to your plants’ water every time you water, right up until 2 or 3 weeks before harvest time.

Here are the big “rules” for operating your Churn. Think small. Always use less than you think you should at first. You will need a TDS meter for this dynamic. Your water source for The Churn can be a wide range, using distilled is fine even. If using rainwater, check PPM and if it is above 15 PPM—don’t use it I would say. Other lower PPM water sources are fine. Groundwater below or at 50 PPM, reverse osmosis filtered water is also fine. Dechlorinated if needed, of course.

Alright then earthlings, let’s roll into the dynamic of The TLO Churn today. A Churn is a place where a very high PPM water solution infuses (fast composts) away. It is both chemically and biologically active and reactive, highly. It is a place where hyper-fast composting occurs. Keep your churn ingredients consistent throughout your plants’ life cycle. The Churn ingredients are very open to modification and alternates. Use what you have, but be careful of your ratios of organic, nitrogen-heavy additions. Off we go…

The Ingredients for a 1-Gallon Churn; and Guidelines I’m going to give you a baseline list of ingredients and ratios here. On one hand, I would say this dynamic is wide open to other additions. On the other hand, I would say dial in my suggestions first then add (or remove) things slowly—small moves and uber small ratios—and give them some time so you can see anything negative resulting, or otherwise unfavorable. Here’s the baseline Churn recipe… 1/8th teaspoon (level) dolomite lime; heaping if pelletized, fast-

Plants Learn to Count on the Nutrients Consistently Supplied by The TLO Churn Water

acting dolomite lime. 1/8th teaspoon (level) bird/bat guano with N-P-K like 9-6-2 not the high P-type. 1/4th teaspoon if granular. 1/8th teaspoon (level) DE; diatomaceous earth, agriculture, or food grades only. 1/4th teaspoon of alfalfa meal. 1/4th teaspoon of crab meal; shrimp meal works as well. 1/4th teaspoon kelp meal, or rinsed and dried/ground up kelp.

Literally a few grains/granules of Epsom Salt, agricultural or food grade only.

That’s the baseline above. And all you do is bubble this for at least 24 hours, longer is fine. Remember each churn is unique a little bit because it lasts and evolves over the whole lifetime of your plant(s). How you retrieve your churned solution is simple. Remove the air-stone and wait about 10-15 minutes. Pour off the top avoiding anything that has settled at the bottom. Blend this with the water you will use on your plants every time you water. Dial-in your formula as per ratios of Churn solution to water, so that your resulting plant water runs about 65 PPM (55-65PPM).

For the last couple or few weeks before flowering, drop your PPM to about 40-50 PPM to drain out any stored nutrients from the plants allowing them to fade beautifully. I always keep some leftover water solution bubbling in The Churn after I use most of it. I just keep adding more stuff and new water, although I reduce my ratios of additions by like half after the first time. It doesn’t matter how insane the PPM runs in The Churn, it’s all about the ratios of it you use every time you water to reach that golden 55-65 PPM range with your plant water. I only clean out my gallon Churn once per plant cycle. Here are some extra things I like to add to my flowering room Churn… 1/8th teaspoon bee pollen 2 ounces bottled spring water 1-ounce aquarium water 1-ounce worm leachate from a stacked worm farm 1/8th teaspoon fish meal or dried fish—I use this in The Churn only for vegetative plants

Think Small—Therein Lies Your Biggest Challenge

My Churn runs anywhere from 100, to 250+ PPM sometimes. All the same stuff being added, so no matter what, I just use however much Churn solution I need to add to bring my plant water up to about 65 PPM. Having a gallon of distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water is handy in case you add a bit too much. Super low PPM water brings down your plant water PPM fast.

Be very careful with additions like meals, you don’t want too much nitrogen-heavy organic matter brewing in The Churn. When you use up your Churn just add back all the same amendments, like always add the same amount of dolomite lime. Everything else you can add like half amounts of once you are past the first Churn you make. The Churn is very open to adaptability, dial yours in, and reap the rewards.

Avoid adding any liquid nutrients or tonics, elixirs, etc., to The Churn. You will just throw the whole thing off balance. You want it to be like a supernatural pond of mega-nutrients, or something similar. Evolving and decomposing always. Magic via Mother Nature amigos.

Let’s Review Homeskillets

If your groundwater source is up above 55 PPM, I would drop it down to 40 – 50 PPM by adding some distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water first, before I did anything else in this article. It doesn’t take much uberlow PPM water to drop the higher water’s PPM fast.

In the past, I have dabbled with micro-additions to The Churn of things like greensand, bone meal, and blood meal. I wouldn’t recommend any of these additions. If you wanted to add something like Azomite, or SRP, you would add nano-amounts— like a coke spoons worth. Or less. Think small always and your plants will love you for it. Just keep your additions to The Churn, and your plant water PPMs consistent until just weeks before harvest. This allows you to leverage nature’s powers, literally.

Essential pH Balancing Addition to The Churn

Another thing I like to do is, when I mix my Churn water with my regular below 50 PPM water, to reach that target of 65 PPM, or maybe a few PPM less, I let my 65 PPM plant water bubble for about an hour before I use it on the plants. You don’t have to do this at all. I just happen to believe it kicks the whole supernatural aspect up a notch—wink.

See ya all next time, I’m outty for now. Make sure and check out the Sensi Sermons article in this issue as well. If you are looking for some solid genetics, sexually healthy and all organically grown and bred, bop on by Kingdomorganicseeds. com baybee! Working hard on the new book almost every day. Make sure to grab your copy of True Living Organics 2nd Edition, it contains a lot of details the new book won’t go back over—too much new shit in the new book! Heh heh, alrighty then, L8r G8rs, best JuJu to you all.